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sunbeamti
31-05-2017, 20:53
Hi,

I have a totally new set-up, PS4 PCars and T300RS, all less than 24 hours of gaming old.

Every time I play the wheel, it disconnects after about 15-20 minutes. Game goes off, blank screen and message.

What is wrong?

Does anybody know? All my items were bought within the last 2 months, as you can see, I've hardly used it!

Thanks,
Rob.

morpwr
31-05-2017, 21:52
Hi,

I have a totally new set-up, PS4 PCars and T300RS, all less than 24 hours of gaming old.

Every time I play the wheel, it disconnects after about 15-20 minutes. Game goes off, blank screen and message.

What is wrong?

Does anybody know? All my items were bought within the last 2 months, as you can see, I've hardly used it!

Thanks,
Rob.


Did you try googling the message?

sunbeamti
31-05-2017, 22:12
Yes, spent a few hours reading posts, and not understanding the replies. Seems most people that have not had the message say it does not happen and the people that have the message can't find the problem!

Is it the wheel or the game, I personally doubt it's the PS4 machine.

I feel it maybe quicker and better to ask the question rather than read for months to 'try' and find the answer.

sunbeamti
31-05-2017, 23:47
OK, thinking it was the game, I tried a different driving game, same message after 10 minutes of driving!

So it's a wheel or console problem!

I'll go talk to the Thrustmaster forum.

morpwr
01-06-2017, 01:26
Yes, spent a few hours reading posts, and not understanding the replies. Seems most people that have not had the message say it does not happen and the people that have the message can't find the problem!

Is it the wheel or the game, I personally doubt it's the PS4 machine.

I feel it maybe quicker and better to ask the question rather than read for months to 'try' and find the answer.


What is the message you are getting? I have the t300 and many hours on the ps4 with pcars and never had an issue like that. You arent using the ps4 controller to start the game are? You could have some weird issue but without the message its kind of hard for any of us to help you.

sunbeamti
01-06-2017, 08:35
237941237941

This is the message on AC, I will get a screen shot on PCars today, but it says the same message.

"controller disconnected"

morpwr
01-06-2017, 10:55
237941237941

This is the message on AC, I will get a screen shot on PCars today, but it says the same message.

"controller disconnected"


You didn't answer if you are starting the game with the wheel. Don't use the ps4 controller only use the wheel. Plug the wheel in before you start the ps4 if you don't already. You do have the wheel plugged directly into the ps4 by itself right? Just some things to try. The fact it does it with 2 different games doesn't leave many options but the wheel or the ps4. One other thing have you tried a different port on the ps4?

sunbeamti
01-06-2017, 11:27
237945

This is the message after 30 minutes of driving from cold on PCars T300RS PS4.

sunbeamti
01-06-2017, 11:28
Start the game and console using nothing but the wheel and have swapped ports.

morpwr
01-06-2017, 11:40
Start the game and console using nothing but the wheel and have swapped ports.


Just out of curiosity what are your ffb settings for the wheel and do you have the fan running all the time?

sunbeamti
01-06-2017, 11:49
85% FFB, and I don't know about the fan. I plug it all in and play with it. I assume I don't need to reprogram the cooling fan, that should be something the manufacture sorts out if the wheel needs it. It was also updated to the latest software when I got it new 6 weeks ago.

morpwr
01-06-2017, 12:00
85% FFB, and I don't know about the fan. I plug it all in and play with it. I assume I don't need to reprogram the cooling fan, that should be something the manufacture sorts out if the wheel needs it. It was also updated to the latest software when I got it new 6 weeks ago.

You need to turn the fan on to run all the time or the wheel will overheat before the fan comes on. This was a common issue and the reason thrustmaster made it possible to do. Especially not knowing what the rest of your settings are but most of us don't run the wheel that high. Usually 75 and below in most cases. Are you using jacks ffb settings for the cars? Id turn the fan on and see what happens.

The reason thrustmaster didn't originally is because up until pcars it wasn't an issue. Pcars has the strongest ffb out of all the games so it wasn't needed before.

bradleyland
01-06-2017, 14:14
I have never adjusted the fan in my T300. I have the 28cm Ferrari wheel, I play for hours at a time, and I have never had this disconnect issue.

Couple of questions/suggestions for OP:

Is your wheel connected directly or through a USB hub?

When the wheel disconnects, does the mode light on your wheel stay on?

When you get the disconnect message, does your wheel re-calibrate (wheel spin left/right)?

Double-check the power connector on the wheel base side. I have to push really hard to get that side to fully plug in.

IMO, 20-30 minutes is an extremely short period of time for the wheel to overheat. I think you probably have some sort of hardware issue with the wheel itself. If it's not some basic issue (connection/power related), your best bet is going to be to open a ticket with Thrustmaster support. I've dealt with them before, and my recommendation is to read their requests carefully and be sure to provide every stitch of information they ask for. They won't move forward until you have. They'll basically ignore everything you say until you provide all those details. That results in a 2-3 day lag every time they come back with a boilerplate message to "Please provide detail XYZ in order for us to fulfill your request."

morpwr
01-06-2017, 14:34
I have never adjusted the fan in my T300. I have the 28cm Ferrari wheel, I play for hours at a time, and I have never had this disconnect issue.

Couple of questions/suggestions for OP:

Is your wheel connected directly or through a USB hub?

When the wheel disconnects, does the mode light on your wheel stay on?

When you get the disconnect message, does your wheel re-calibrate (wheel spin left/right)?

Double-check the power connector on the wheel base side. I have to push really hard to get that side to fully plug in.

IMO, 20-30 minutes is an extremely short period of time for the wheel to overheat. I think you probably have some sort of hardware issue with the wheel itself. If it's not some basic issue (connection/power related), your best bet is going to be to open a ticket with Thrustmaster support. I've dealt with them before, and my recommendation is to read their requests carefully and be sure to provide every stitch of information they ask for. They won't move forward until you have. They'll basically ignore everything you say until you provide all those details. That results in a 2-3 day lag every time they come back with a boilerplate message to "Please provide detail XYZ in order for us to fulfill your request."



20-30 Minutes is absolutely enough time to overheat depending on how strong he has the ffb set. Not knowing the rest of the information for his settings its hard to say how strong it really is. I'm not saying overheating is absolutely causing his issue but its easy enough to check just turn the fan on and see if it helps/solves the issue.

morpwr
01-06-2017, 14:36
One other thing the op might want to check is does the wheel have the latest firmware? Just because its new doesn't mean it does.

sunbeamti
01-06-2017, 15:03
Hi,

It does have the latest firmware, I said in an earlier post that was the first thing I did when it arrived. It is plugged into the PS4 via it's own USB plug properly and the power cable is totally fully in, I've seen the 'TM' trouble shooting page and mine looks like the website pic when correct.

To be honest, the wheel should be plug and play as it is the T300RS GT with the GT logo and better pedals (clutch) in the box. This is the wheel officially recommended by Sony for the PS4. The fact that I have to run FFB lower than the 100% offered and mess about with the fan settings has put me right off the wheel, the brand and sim racing as a whole. This tech is simply not developed enough for the general public to be buying in the PS4.

I am going through Paypal to send it back and will be looking for a full refund (48 days old but only been used for about 8 hours) and then selling my brand new PS4 on Ebay! I will then buy another PS3 and G27 wheel (or use my old Driving force GT) I do have a new (4 month old) T500RS, I may use that or get cold feet and sell it while it's still perfect!

PS3 + GT5 + DFGT is not a perfect combo, but at least it works.

I'll keep you posted

morpwr
01-06-2017, 15:20
Hi,

It does have the latest firmware, I said in an earlier post that was the first thing I did when it arrived. It is plugged into the PS4 via it's own USB plug properly and the power cable is totally fully in, I've seen the 'TM' trouble shooting page and mine looks like the website pic when correct.

To be honest, the wheel should be plug and play as it is the T300RS GT with the GT logo and better pedals (clutch) in the box. This is the wheel officially recommended by Sony for the PS4. The fact that I have to run FFB lower than the 100% offered and mess about with the fan settings has put me right off the wheel, the brand and sim racing as a whole. This tech is simply not developed enough for the general public to be buying in the PS4.

I am going through Paypal to send it back and will be looking for a full refund (48 days old but only been used for about 8 hours) and then selling my brand new PS4 on Ebay! I will then buy another PS3 and G27 wheel (or use my old Driving force GT) I do have a new (4 month old) T500RS, I may use that or get cold feet and sell it while it's still perfect!

PS3 + GT5 + DFGT is not a perfect combo, but at least it works.

I'll keep you posted

All wheels get firmware updates just like the ps4. Because you lowered the ffb master doesn't mean you will get less ffb and in a lot of cases raising it depending on other settings makes the ffb worse all you will get is a heavy wheel with no detail. There is a reason thrustmaster chose 75 as the default not saying you cant set it higher but in most cases if everything else is set right you probably wont have to. Unfortunately pcars is the hardest to get right. You have to remember no other game has the amount of settings to change as pcars does. You never mentioned if you are running default settings for the ffb and cars? If you are the ffb is probably way too strong. Try a car with jacks car ffb settings and my wheel settings and see what you think before giving up. There is a link in my signature to the oscarolim site with every bodies wheel settings. Have you turned on the ffb hud in pcars to see if you get a lot of clipping? You have to remember this isn't gt so it will take a little bit of setting up to get right but once you do its worth it if you like racing games.

hkraft300
01-06-2017, 15:28
I race with guys regularly pumping their T300s for 2+ hour races on PS4, pcars and AC. No drama.
It's probably just overheating.
Plug it in to your PC, update the firmware and set the fan to always run, as has already been suggested.

morpwr
01-06-2017, 15:41
I race with guys regularly pumping their T300s for 2+ hour races on PS4, pcars and AC. No drama.
It's probably just overheating.
Plug it in to your PC, update the firmware and set the fan to always run, as has already been suggested.

Never had an issue with mine either after turning on the fan and I regularly ran for 2-3 hours at a time.

sunbeamti
03-06-2017, 22:34
Hi,

I tried your settings morpwr, it's no wonder your wheel doesn't get problems, the FFB is incredibly low, I can hardly feel anything through the wheel, almost no point having a FFB wheel. But, to be honest, I never heard the fan come on on my 300. If it's like the 500, I'd have heard it. So with the fan running all the time and your FFB settings, it should run forever.

But cos I've lost faith in the 300, I bought a G29, it's not perfect by any means, but it's comfortable and has just done two 4 hour runs with no issues what so ever.

Reliability trumps everything.

So the 300 is going one way or anther and so is my 500. If somebody makes a reasonably priced, reliable quality wheel one day, I'll try it, until then the G29 will do. Back to bashing tarmac on Pcars :-)

Thanks.

morpwr
04-06-2017, 14:53
Hi,

I tried your settings morpwr, it's no wonder your wheel doesn't get problems, the FFB is incredibly low, I can hardly feel anything through the wheel, almost no point having a FFB wheel. But, to be honest, I never heard the fan come on on my 300. If it's like the 500, I'd have heard it. So with the fan running all the time and your FFB settings, it should run forever.

But cos I've lost faith in the 300, I bought a G29, it's not perfect by any means, but it's comfortable and has just done two 4 hour runs with no issues what so ever.

Reliability trumps everything.

So the 300 is going one way or anther and so is my 500. If somebody makes a reasonably priced, reliable quality wheel one day, I'll try it, until then the G29 will do. Back to bashing tarmac on Pcars :-)

Thanks.


Just remember no matter what wheel you have strong ffb doesn't mean good ffb. It may take a couple days to adjust to a lighter ffb setting but in most cases really strong ffb covers up all the small details in the ffb. It honestly sounds like you didn't set something right with the t300 settings or you could have turned the master up some for personal taste. But there are a lot of people using those settings or something close to it that they tweaked for personal taste. The fan on the t300 isn't very loud so unless you are listening for it you may not hear it. Question is did the wheel still have the disconnect issue?

hkraft300
04-06-2017, 15:27
+1

Without the global adjusted properly to compensate for the wheel's working range, jacked up ffb just sends the wheel full overloaded (aka clipping) and you lose all feedback in high load conditions.

Bought himself a G29 to replace the T300 he has!

morpwr
04-06-2017, 17:46
+1

Without the global adjusted properly to compensate for the wheel's working range, jacked up ffb just sends the wheel full overloaded (aka clipping) and you lose all feedback in high load conditions.

Bought himself a G29 to replace the T300 he has!


I tried...that's all we can do

hkraft300
04-06-2017, 18:36
I tried...that's all we can do

He'll be right, as long as one doesn't expect strong ffb from the G29 :rolleyes:

morpwr
04-06-2017, 22:25
He'll be right, as long as one doesn't expect strong ffb from the G29 :rolleyes:

As long as it goes to 100 and theres no need to turn anything on...lol

sunbeamti
06-06-2017, 11:13
Yes, the wheel did still disconnect every time during a race with your settings. I tried at least 10 other settings from your list, all disconnected.

I sent the wheel back as faulty and bought the G29. The G29 is absolutely nothing like the T300RS or my T500RS, but at least it it works! I plugged it in, updated it via then net, stuck it on Pcars and raced with it for hours at a time. No problems at all.

However, cos the G29 is so old inside and I've had a taste of what a good wheel feels like (and how TM fail) I've sold all my wheels(4 including the G29!) and bought the new Fanatec CSL PS4, pedals inc load cell and the shifter. I don't think anybody can accuse me of not replacing the T300RS with something good?

So I will see how it goes. Fanatec seem to have a reputation in some peoples eyes, but as a consumer, what can I do.

I do appreciate your help and did follow all your advice. My time is scarce and I don't want to be spending the little time I have trying to fix stuff that shouldn't really need fixing (or tweaking) on a console. If I was a PC racer, that would be expected, but I consider consoles to be plug and play.

** Nothing I do in the settings of a console should stop the wheel from working! **

Just my opinion, but we all know what opinion's are like!

hkraft300
06-06-2017, 14:11
** Nothing I do in the settings of a console should stop the wheel from working! **



But it's not the console settings that stopped your T300.
It was wheel firmware settings :rolleyes:

But do let us know how the Fanatec gets on.
Been frothing over it. Looks mint.

morpwr
06-06-2017, 21:57
Yes, the wheel did still disconnect every time during a race with your settings. I tried at least 10 other settings from your list, all disconnected.

I sent the wheel back as faulty and bought the G29. The G29 is absolutely nothing like the T300RS or my T500RS, but at least it it works! I plugged it in, updated it via then net, stuck it on Pcars and raced with it for hours at a time. No problems at all.

However, cos the G29 is so old inside and I've had a taste of what a good wheel feels like (and how TM fail) I've sold all my wheels(4 including the G29!) and bought the new Fanatec CSL PS4, pedals inc load cell and the shifter. I don't think anybody can accuse me of not replacing the T300RS with something good?

So I will see how it goes. Fanatec seem to have a reputation in some peoples eyes, but as a consumer, what can I do.

I do appreciate your help and did follow all your advice. My time is scarce and I don't want to be spending the little time I have trying to fix stuff that shouldn't really need fixing (or tweaking) on a console. If I was a PC racer, that would be expected, but I consider consoles to be plug and play.

** Nothing I do in the settings of a console should stop the wheel from working! **

Just my opinion, but we all know what opinion's are like!


You could have just got a bad one. It happens regardless of the manufacturer. Honestly most of the wheels are pretty good and rarely fail anymore. I think your expectations for console sim racing are a little dated though. The days of just setting wheel strength are gone.If you want a good experience with any wheel you will have to change settings to fit your wheel. That's why we have them now so you can adjust to the game to fit your wheel and the feeling you prefer. The default values will work but that's it and in many cases be no wheres near close to optimal. The stuff you bought should be a good step in getting good hardware but I wouldn't expect them to be exactly plug and play in any new racing game. I get not wanting to spend time tweaking things but there are many on here that can help speed things up and once you learn what does what it goes pretty quick. Honestly the pc games and console games are pretty much the same now with a few exceptions on pc because we can get into files. Things have gotten pretty even because console users expect more now. I have both a ps4 and pc and really only switched because I'm not hardware limited,better vr and more racing sims on pc. But hopefully your new wheel will help and you wont get put off by having to make some adjustments because it really is rewarding when you get it right and see how good these games really are compared to what we had in the past.

sunbeamti
08-06-2017, 15:36
238044238045

Look what just turned in the post :-)

morpwr
08-06-2017, 21:27
238044238045

Look what just turned in the post :-)


You know theres no going back now. Wait till you try the load cell brakes and better equipment. Next will be a rig for proper seating. Youll be hooked like the rest of us.

sunbeamti
08-06-2017, 21:39
Why do you assume I don't already have a rig?
very odd ??

morpwr
08-06-2017, 22:56
Why do you assume I don't already have a rig?
very odd ??

Do you? lol

sunbeamti
08-06-2017, 23:26
Yes, had it for the last 5 years. LOL !

morpwr
09-06-2017, 10:36
Yes, had it for the last 5 years. LOL !

Nice. What one do you have? Nothing personal but by the way you were talking about sim racing I wouldn't have guessed you have a rig.

hkraft300
09-06-2017, 19:34
CSL elite pedals don't have clutch?
Really?

Toastfrenzy
15-07-2017, 06:34
OK, searching for T300rs disconnection issues brought up this recent post - bought this wheel and the pro pedals and shifter along with the Project cars game all around July 1st 2017. Two weeks in and now getting a lot of random controller disconnects from couple days ago. I thought it might be all the settings t hat I've been changing but as there are 3 people who use this set up, i'm the most experienced driver - drive with no aids and settings adjusted as oscarolim and others suggest, my son (13) who drives with a few aids on and relatively no FFB changes and my daughter (10) who drives with most aids on and no ffb changes (she can get a Clio round Brands Indy in under 56 secs.) The controller disconnection message appears for all of us.

FFB is set at the default 75 value.

I've felt the wheel base, not even warm to the touch and the fan isn't on when this starts to happen, it's on FW25 which is the latest version which the software told me when I set it up on my pc first.

Nothing has brought up anything conclusive to resolve, searching has brought up similar issues with the same hardware with the PS4.

Can anyone detail, in a bullet type list of what to check for and change to help resolve.

To say I'm disappointed that this has started to occur is an understatement. Unfortunately I don't have another driving PS4 game to try - not sure I want to buy another game to test a what if scenario.

Killg0re NL
28-09-2017, 18:27
I had a faulty T300 wheel wich is replaced by TM for a new wheel.

But the new wheel, keeps randomly disconnecting me with PC and PC2.
Sometimes it's just in the beginning, after a while no more disconnects.
But quite anoying when racing.

The powerplug is well seating in the T300 base.
The usb cable is directly plugged in the PS4 front.
Its an 500Gb edition, with latest firmware (older versions have it aswell)
And the wheel is also up to date with the latest firmware.
The problems persists with the original wheel and the Ferrari 458 wheel.
The game is started with the T300. (DS4 is off.)
The other USB port gives the same effect.

These problems where quitte common in the beginning.
But does any of you know what the solution or problem was?

Some reported there was no problem with the wheel in Driveclub.
But the FFB in driveclub is much lesser in comparisation with PC1 and PC1

Killg0re NL
02-10-2017, 12:05
Past period i did some trouble shooting.
The problem occurred aswell in Drive Club and Project Cars 2
A quick test on a PS3 (GRID2 and GT6) didn't give a problem. (it's just a controller number)

This morning, i did some measurements.
When the USB is connected (to PS4 of PC) it outputs 5V to the mains power supply (even when the mains is not connected)
During the testing, the 5V remained on a solid 5V level.

The mains secundairy was a whole different story, when the wheel was idle, the Voltage was arround 30VDC
During racing, the Voltage dropped till 15VDC, eventually the wheel gave up. No more 30VDC.

So there must be a problem with the power supply, i recon the solution can be found on youtube.
search for " Thrustmaster T300 wheel repair"

But my previous wheel was just replaced onder warranty, this wheel is also goiing back under warranty, so no trouble shooting on that part.

So it seems that random disconnects are main powersupply related (Based on my single wheel experience)

Killg0re NL
15-11-2017, 19:00
Hmz, small update, i had issue's with an T300 (most likely would still have)

Here's what i think.
The older T300 model worked with my PS4-500Gb model (got it a few months after release)
When this wheel died on me, i got a new rim (new model) base from Thrustmaster (excellent service) but this unit failed to work proper with my original PS4-500Gb model.

When i swapped the wheelbase with my collegue, both rim's were working flawlessly. But my collegue had an PS4 Pro...
And his rim was an older version what worked on my PS4-500Gb model.

So it might be the case that a new T300 base unit, might not work properly with an older PS4 unit...?

V3nom
15-11-2017, 19:13
Wow I hope you are very wrong. I have a release PS4 and I'm getting the t300 in a week.
Please do update if you have news. :)

Killg0re NL
15-11-2017, 19:21
i have sold my original PS4, and got a PS4-Pro (got it sold within a day, and there was a discount on the PS4 pro, so it was a 1+1...)
But when the wheel still is faulty, id know it for sure. But we need to switch them back first.