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Ronald0505
21-09-2017, 18:45
I'm a bit frustrated right now... like I was with the first Project CARS, and that's about the wheel settings, let me explain:

I have the Thrustmaster TX racing wheel. I adjusted the wheel settings like I want to feel it the right way.
Set it to 540 degrees rotation, I've calibrated my wheel in the PC2 wheel settings.

Then I went to "Private Testing" to test if I liked the wheel settings, It felt really good and was satisfied.
Really was happy the problems in the previous Project CARS weren't in this release.

Then I went to "Custom Race", selected to do a training, qualify and then race.
I started the training and my wheel was flipping like it did at many other Thrustmaster owners on the previous Project CARS...
(And I was stil standing in the pit) I was like... oh oooh... not again...
So I went to go on track and my wheel settings were gone.... just gone... it was on default again.
I did not had 540 degrees rotation anymore but 900 degrees of rotation... I couldn't keep my car straight on the straights because my wheel was flipping.

I went to go back to "Private Testing" because my wheel settings were perfect then. And is still was perfect... so the game doesn't save my wheel settings on all game modes??

Help me out here, this is frustrating.

Version of the game is: V1.0.0.13.0842

Ronald0505
21-09-2017, 18:48
Oh, and I tried to shut down my XB1 and did a power cycle of my wheel, did not helped.

Siberian Tiger
21-09-2017, 18:50
Just a short Question: What are the benefits of shorten the Available Degrees of Rotation? If you have 900° you should use 900° or?

Never did this, that's why am asking...

Invincible
21-09-2017, 18:57
Just calibrate your wheel to full rotation and let Pcars and the soft lock do the rest.

Ronald0505
21-09-2017, 19:02
I did calibrate it at full rotation, that's not the problem it seems.

But just now I've tested something. I had set the race to full grid (31 cars) at first when I had the wheel problem.
Now I turned it down to 10 cars and the wheel problem is gone, so it is a bug or something.

Please Slightly Mad, read this and work on a fix. You can contact me for more info.

Vit7
21-09-2017, 19:21
I did calibrate it at full rotation, that's not the problem it seems.

But just now I've tested something. I had set the race to full grid (31 cars) at first when I had the wheel problem.
Now I turned it down to 10 cars and the wheel problem is gone, so it is a bug or something.

Please Slightly Mad, read this and work on a fix. You can contact me for more info.

seems like good time to change your misleading topic...

Ronald0505
21-09-2017, 19:22
Just a short Question: What are the benefits of shorten the Available Degrees of Rotation? If you have 900° you should use 900° or?

Never did this, that's why am asking...

Well I had it on 900 degrees the first time but it was impossible to keep the car in a straight line, the wheel didn't respond the way I wanted to do.
I had to steer full left to go in to a easy left corner, that's not right.
So I turned the rotation down to 540 degrees and it responded the way it should do. I had this on the previous PC too.

Ronald0505
21-09-2017, 19:25
seems like good time to change your misleading topic...

Why should I change it?? It's still a wheel setting problem in game... this is something that needs a fix.
It's not that I do something wrong, my wheel isn't the problem.
If I want to do a race with full grid and then I have this problem, that's not misleading anybody. It needs a fix!

Ronald0505
21-09-2017, 19:27
seems like good time to change your misleading topic...

And I should be able to do races with full grid without any wheel setting problems, right? I've bought the game to get the most out of it, not to do only races with 10 cars to avoid the wheel problem, the problem is in the game, not me..

Siberian Tiger
21-09-2017, 19:34
Tip: You can edit your Post, so you don't Need to make a new Post every Time ;) (Edit Post underneath your own Post)

Ok, for the Bug i can't follow you correctly.

IF you set the Rotation to 540° AND use more then 10 Cars it doesn't worK?

Ronald0505
21-09-2017, 19:43
Tip: You can edit your Post, so you don't Need to make a new Post every Time ;) (Edit Post underneath your own Post)

Ok, for the Bug i can't follow you correctly.

IF you set the Rotation to 540° AND use more then 10 Cars it doesn't worK?

Yes correct. If I choose to have more cars on the grid the wheel is flipping. It starts when I'm still in the pits and haven't been on track yet.
The wheel does some crazy rotations and is off set. When I leave my garage the wheel settings I made are just gone.

When I go back to "Private testing" the wheel settings are still there.

Siberian Tiger
21-09-2017, 19:45
Ok, but ONLY when you set it to Custom Degree like 540° right?

Ronald0505
21-09-2017, 19:58
Ok, but ONLY when you set it to Custom Degree like 540° right?

If I leave it on 900 degrees rotation the car is undrivable, I have to full lock steer left or right to go through a full speed easy corner and I barely make it through the corner.
The response is not right if I leave it on 900 degrees. And I've calibrated the wheel on the PC2 menu.

Siberian Tiger
21-09-2017, 20:03
Then something is Fishy on how you do the Calibration... You really did every step in the Calbration right?

For Example holding the Wheel 90° to left or right in the second or third step?

Or do you just going much to fast trough a Corner?

Ronald0505
21-09-2017, 20:19
Yes I do the calibration right, and no I don't go through the corner to fast. I play racing games all my life and I play all racing games on the hardest difficulty.
So please listen to me seriously. I'm not a noob.

Siberian Tiger
21-09-2017, 20:21
I am listen to you seriously ;) Otherwise i wouldn't try to get it down, where the Problem is...

Can please someone with a XBox1 and the Thrustmaster TX racing wheel try and confirm this issue?

Ronald0505
21-09-2017, 20:55
Thank you for that, I am testing half a day testing and trying to get the wheel settings right, I do everything the right way. Maybe when the game official comes out tomorrow there will come more people with the same issue.

doncuba79
22-09-2017, 00:42
i got the same problem,wheel flipps to the right and left even if i dont drive......please help!

oscarolim
22-09-2017, 06:04
I am listen to you seriously ;) Otherwise i wouldn't try to get it down, where the Problem is...

Can please someone with a XBox1 and the Thrustmaster TX racing wheel try and confirm this issue?

I should be getting the game delivered this morning, I can look into this and report back.

Siberian Tiger
22-09-2017, 06:07
i got the same problem,wheel flipps to the right and left even if i dont drive......please help!

Same Wheel? Could you please make a Video from it? With which FFB Settings?

aleph99
22-09-2017, 06:39
I got the same problem with a different wheel, Logitech G920. It shakes uncontrollably even with the car at a standstill with the engine off. While driving, it jumps left & right so much that I cannot keep the car straight. The only way to stop that is to turn FFB down to the point there is no road feeling at all. Furthermore, the wheel feels loose and there is a perceptible lag between wheel movement and car response. I made a video of what happens with the car in full stop (which, BTW, also shows the delay between wheel movement and screen response):


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CTivqZblL9w

Siberian Tiger
22-09-2017, 06:39
Video is unavailable...

And please add you FFB Settings here...

pad242
22-09-2017, 06:40
I'm a bit frustrated right now... like I was with the first Project CARS, and that's about the wheel settings, let me explain:

I have the Thrustmaster TX racing wheel. I adjusted the wheel settings like I want to feel it the right way.
Set it to 540 degrees rotation, I've calibrated my wheel in the PC2 wheel settings.

Then I went to "Private Testing" to test if I liked the wheel settings, It felt really good and was satisfied.
Really was happy the problems in the previous Project CARS weren't in this release.

Then I went to "Custom Race", selected to do a training, qualify and then race.
I started the training and my wheel was flipping like it did at many other Thrustmaster owners on the previous Project CARS...
(And I was stil standing in the pit) I was like... oh oooh... not again...
So I went to go on track and my wheel settings were gone.... just gone... it was on default again.
I did not had 540 degrees rotation anymore but 900 degrees of rotation... I couldn't keep my car straight on the straights because my wheel was flipping.

I went to go back to "Private Testing" because my wheel settings were perfect then. And is still was perfect... so the game doesn't save my wheel settings on all game modes??

Help me out here, this is frustrating.

Version of the game is: V1.0.0.13.0842

I am having the EXACT problem, thank God I found your post! I also have the Thrustmaster TX and like you said in private Testing it worked great, but as soon as i went to Custom race i get this harsh rumbling and the the car become completely un-drivable. I switch back to Private testing works beautiful, go to custom race with other cars, all messed up again, and its the sam with career. Its as if adding other opponents messes the wheel up somehow.

Siberian Tiger
22-09-2017, 06:46
Also here, please write down your FFB Settings... Then we can find a possible Solution..

Thanks :)

pad242
22-09-2017, 06:55
FFB Flavor = Informative
Gain = 40
Volume = 60
Tone = 30
FX = 30
Mwenu spring = 0.05

please fix quickly, dont want to be stuck just doing hot laps all night :-(

nissan4ever
22-09-2017, 07:07
My Thrustmaster TX is working fine with the game. Left base on default 900°. Followed calibration instructions in game. I'm using the informative option for wheel FFB setting & I didn't move any of those sliders.

Siberian Tiger
22-09-2017, 07:23
Please everyone with the Problem and Nissan4ever without that Problem write down the Version you are playing. Aswell as which System V1.0.0.?.?

Seeing Nissan4ever is on a Xbox One S, the other ones please report...

pad242
22-09-2017, 07:28
Please everyone with the Problem and Nissan4ever without that Problem write down the Version you are playing. Aswell as which System V1.0.0.?.?

Seeing Nissan4ever is on a Xbox One S, the other ones please report...

Version V1.0.0.13.0842 playing on regular xbox one. Just finished recording the issue, will post it here one finished uploading and processing.

pad242
22-09-2017, 08:15
It definitely has something to do with other cars being on track, I came back to Custom Race and set the number of opponents to zero and the problem went away. But when I add opponents back to the race the wheel becomes completely unmanageable, violently shaking and rumbling.

hobo0933
22-09-2017, 08:30
When calibrating, do you get it to 100%? If not, add some force to "push through" the last bit so you get to 100%. I think I had the same problem in PC1 before forcing it all the way.

Siberian Tiger
22-09-2017, 08:32
Ok, Guys had Dev Response...

Urgent Request:

Can you Guys please do a Video with the Telemetry Hud on (and the FFB Widget) in a Session where this Problem doesn't happen, and 1 where is happens...

Thanks...

doncuba79
22-09-2017, 08:32
sorry i thought ronald was playin on logitech g920 ...thats what i use. I dont think its about the setting because it start to shake when i am in the option of the game.. i put only one finger on wheel and it starts to shake .i try to a video later......

pad242
22-09-2017, 08:41
When calibrating, do you get it to 100%? If not, add some force to "push through" the last bit so you get to 100%. I think I had the same problem in PC1 before forcing it all the way.

Didnt work. I really dont think it has anything to do with calibrating, because it works perfect with no other cars on track, but as soon as I add other AI opponents to a race it goes completely haywire. It seems to be some weird bug that only triggers when other computer AI opponents are brought in. I even went online for a race and it was fine.

Ronald0505
22-09-2017, 09:04
My FFB settings are:

Flavour: Informative
Gain: 70
Volume: 40
Tone: 40
FX:45
Menu Spring Strength: 0.05

Version of the game is: V1.0.0.13.0842

1st gen Xbox One.

oscarolim
22-09-2017, 10:03
I've tested it and didn't experience the issue.

Settings I used:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4458/36985934210_25e54e3feb_b.jpg

I've calibrated the wheel, kept the 900 degree rotation.

I use the TX with the 599 Wheel, T3PA-Pro pedals and the shifter.

Methadone Man
22-09-2017, 11:14
Platform : Xbox one S
Digital download
Wheel: Logitech g920
Gamertag: Methadone Man

I am also having the same problems with my wheel. It is vibrating and shaking while driving in the straits but smooth in the corners. I have made a live action video that I am uploading and can share. I also just made an Xbox DVR video with telemetry and changing various settings and yet the problem persists.

Lastly, how do I edit my posts signature line so I can add my gamertag and other info?

Methadone Man
22-09-2017, 11:23
Cannot imbed the video but here is a shareable link for anyone to watch. This is the DVR clip. I first show my settings. Then I drive with telemetry on. I then change settings one at a time, but to no avail. Camera is cockpit so you can see the wheel in game itself shakes. I then calibrate the wheel at the end of the clip and try it, but no change. It behaves the same before and after calibration.

Oops I cannot share a link since I'm still a forum noob. May I private message my OneDrive shareable link to our moderator?

Methadone Man
22-09-2017, 12:34
Here's the thing : the issue is blatantly obvious the first few seconds you load up and start driving on your first race. The problem is replicated and documented among multiple Xbox users (on the forums) whose wheels work in other games. So we know the problem is not isolated to one person or device. The problem occurs with default settings. The problem occurs with the Logitech g920 and the Thrustmaster, two of the most popular Xbox wheels that have been out for years. Two wheels that were supported by the original Project Cars on Xbox, released 2 years ago.

How the heck did this get missed by Slightly Mad Studios? Did noone at their studios test this? How on earth did they put all their time and effort into this game, and if clearly shows, but miss this one crucial step? I mean, the project cars series is clearly aimed at simulation racing fans who use wheels. The game auto recognizes my Logitech wheel. So it's obvious the game was designed around the wheel. Did noone in the studio experience this at all? It should have shown up immediately in any beta (or alpha) tests.

Siberian Tiger
22-09-2017, 12:37
Methadone Man, the Devs are looking into it.

The Console Testing where outside of SMS, and also WMD had no access to Console Builds... Yes, this shouldn't happen, but nowadays everything is really complex...

We are here trying to help, did you tried oscarolims FFB Settings?

TKMSte66
22-09-2017, 12:40
Here's the thing : the issue is blatantly obvious the first few seconds you load up and start driving on your first race. The problem is replicated and documented among multiple Xbox users (on the forums) whose wheels work in other games. So we know the problem is not isolated to one person or device. The problem occurs with default settings. The problem occurs with the Logitech g920 and the Thrustmaster, two of the most popular Xbox wheels that have been out for years. Two wheels that were supported by the original Project Cars on Xbox, released 2 years ago.

How the heck did this get missed by Slightly Mad Studios? Did noone at their studios test this? How on earth did they put all their time and effort into this game, and if clearly shows, but miss this one crucial step? I mean, the project cars series is clearly aimed at simulation racing fans who use wheels. The game auto recognizes my Logitech wheel. So it's obvious the game was designed around the wheel. Did noone in the studio experience this at all? It should have shown up immediately in any beta (or alpha) tests.

Yeah its bulls@#t isnt it! Thing is, drive an indycar at indy and there is NOTHING while you drive down the straight. Its like the FFB is actually off. Chalk n cheese.

Ronald0505
22-09-2017, 12:52
Here are 2 video's with the wheel issues: Go to recordings there you can find 2 video's

https://account.xbox.com/nl-NL/Profile?xr=mebarnav

1. Video without the issue. In this video there is a big diffrence in how I can keep the car straight, no crazy movements on the wheel and the FFB telemetry is stable now.
Custom Race - 10 AI - Ferrari 488 GT3 - Hockenheim


2. Video with the issue. Here you can clearly see I'm having trouble to keep the car in a straight line. This is undrivable. My wheel is shaking so badly en the respons of steering is very bad.
Custom Race - 29 AI - Ferrari 488 GT3 - Hockenheim (Track and car doesn't matter, the issue is with every car, only AI seems to be the issue)

Thrustmaster TX, T3PA Pedals, TH8a shifter

Flavour: Informative
Gain: 70
Volume: 30
Tone: 40
FX:45
Menu Spring Strength: 0.05

Version of the game is: V1.0.0.13.0842

1st gen Xbox One (500GB)
Physical copy of PC2

Methadone Man
22-09-2017, 13:17
Moderator, I do appreciate you forwarding the information to the developers. I do appreciate you allowing us to discuss this. And I will do my best to keep this professional. I understand that people make mistakes, and somehow this issue did not get properly tested before release. I am also aware of the fact that the game can be patched and maybe somebody can find a control setting work around to tie us over until that occurs. So I am not judging. I am not perfect and I have made mistakes and had to go back and learn from them.

With that in mind, it should be noted that several of us have now spent a few hours trying to work around the problem and have even gone to the trouble of making videos and uploading it. So we are doing our part to try and help the developers. And it should also be noted that we have already handed over $60-$80 of our own money to the developer. So there is a certain expectation that the game is playable on day one with a commonly used driving wheel. This is a reasonable expectation due to the genre of the game.

So please do not construe this as some kind of threat or a situation where I'm cutting off my nose to spite my face. I'm going to lay this on the lines so the developers can understand what is going on. We are in a situation where there are two highly anticipated racing games being released one week from each other. Two competitors. It's not as if we have only one choice and can afford to wait a few months for the issues to be ironed out for PC2. Forza seven is being released in six days and we know the wheel works with the for the seven demo so there is a high chance that we will not experience these issues with that game. Although it is not a exact simulation, it is safe to assume that forza seven is a competitor to project cars 2. Put yourself in our situation. We have two games that we can play. We have driving wheels that are sitting here waiting to go. One game clearly doesn't work. The other game does. Do you think that most gamers are going to sit and wait for project cars two to be properly fixed when they can just go play Forza seven and it works right off the bat? What is going to happen is that while we are waiting for this game to be patched, we will be busy playing Forza seven, and we may just end up forgetting about project cars 2. Again, this is not a "do as I say or I'm taking my football and going home" type of situation. I'm not a petulant child. I do have a certain amount of patience and understanding. But when there is a direct competitor right in front of me that I can play and not have problems with, I'm going to play it and then go through the Microsoft refund process for PC2.

In essence, slightly mad studios has approximately one week to get this fixed, or they will surely see sales suffer.

There was this girl I knew in college that I was interested in, but she did not reciprocate feelings for me at the time. After several weeks of rejection, I finally gave up and moved on. Several months down the road she contacted me and expressed an interest in wanting to get together. But it was already too late. I was no longer interested in her. I found someone else. Don't be that girl, slightly mad studios.

pad242
22-09-2017, 13:25
Methadone Man, the Devs are looking into it.

The Console Testing where outside of SMS, and also WMD had no access to Console Builds... Yes, this shouldn't happen, but nowadays everything is really complex...

We are here trying to help, did you tried oscarolims FFB Settings?

Here is the video that shows the wheel working in a solo run and then not working when I add AI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kOQIT_ZFw24

pad242
22-09-2017, 13:26
The video shows the wheel working correctly as long as Im on the track by myself, but as soon as I add AI opponents it NEVER stops jerking...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kOQIT_ZFw24

Ronald0505
22-09-2017, 13:40
Thanks for sharing, exact the same issue i'm having. Without AI my wheel works perfect, add AI and the issues are back.

Froggystomper
22-09-2017, 13:54
I was looking forward to playing this with my TX when I got home after work but it looks like the same nonsense from PC1 release. Good effort lads.

HammerToof
22-09-2017, 13:58
Same problems for me with the TX wheel. Wheel feels good in private testing but in any race with A.i I'm struggling to stay in a straight line. I'm using the Audi R8 lmp900 at Brands Hatch.

God knows why I keep buying games on release day!

snipeme77
22-09-2017, 13:59
Oh boy... here we go again

Froggystomper
22-09-2017, 14:04
I'll wait until I try it myself later but if it IS asbroken as it appears from this thread, I'll be taking my refund and picking up a cheap copy of Assetto Corsa (Turn 10 aren't getting a penny from me the lazy gits) and continuing on with my multiplayer league on PC1. I waited months for PC1 to be fixed while basically bug testing it and I can't be arsed with that patter again.

pad242
22-09-2017, 14:29
Ok I think I may know whats going on. Perhaps you guys can try this out. I got a race going (with AI) and the wheel worked, only this time I disabled practice and qualifying and I started with a rolling start. I noticed that my tires where already warm (green) and I didn't have the problem at all with the wheel. Hence I'm thinking the problem may be with the way the game transfers cold tire data to the TX wheel (causing it to jerk wildly). Please try this out and tell me if you get it to work...

nissan4ever
22-09-2017, 14:49
Please everyone with the Problem and Nissan4ever without that Problem write down the Version you are playing. Aswell as which System V1.0.0.?.?

Seeing Nissan4ever is on a Xbox One S, the other ones please report...

My version number is V.1.0.0.13.0842

Methadone Man
22-09-2017, 14:51
I experience the shaking whether I'm in solo practice session or in a race with AI. Makes no difference for my Logitech g920 wheel.

Xbox one S. digital download. Version 1.0.0.13.0842

My problem is only driving straight. In a curve when the wheel is turned, it's fine.

HammerToof
22-09-2017, 15:01
Works fine when set to 16 opponents. Anything 17 opponents or higher and I get the wheel problem.

aleph99
22-09-2017, 15:04
Video is unavailable...

And please add you FFB Settings here...

Sorry, my mistake. The video was private (first time publishing in YouTube). Corrected now.

As to FFB settings, I tried all Flavours and practically all values, going from 0 to 100 and in different combinations. Shaking only stops when I move the Gain slider down to around 20, but then I lose all road feeling. If I try to compensate that with the other slides, (say, Tone or FX), the wheel starts to shake again.

The wheel was calibrated properly (several times, in fact). I also tried changing wheel deadzone (up to around 15), but that didn't work either.

nissan4ever
22-09-2017, 15:04
I turn my Thrustmaster TX as far as I can on the calibration screen. I get a 100. I then turn the wheel to 90° & I'll see 900 on the screen (my base is on default 900° of rotation). My wheel has been properly calibrated.
240339
These are my sliders. I've lowered Gain down to 90. Everything else is default.
240257

Now as with PC1. I leave my TX on the default 900°of rotation. The game does soft lock for adjusting DOR by the car type. Really no reason to change it on the TX base IMO.

I haven't experienced nothing but smooth wheel operation. Just ran a 31 AI car grid at Long Beach & everything was good to go.

I will be lowering the gain a little bit more for over all feel.

UPDATE I've settled on 70 for my gain number. Suits me :)

Methadone Man
22-09-2017, 15:13
Ok I think I may know whats going on. Perhaps you guys can try this out. I got a race going (with AI) and the wheel worked, only this time I disabled practice and qualifying and I started with a rolling start. I noticed that my tires where already warm (green) and I didn't have the problem at all with the wheel. Hence I'm thinking the problem may be with the way the game transfers cold tire data to the TX wheel (causing it to jerk wildly). Please try this out and tell me if you get it to work...

Drove 5 continuous laps on the same track. Tires were properly warmed up. Made no difference. Problem persists.

Right now I'm going through the umpteenth variation of control setting to find that holy grail which will fix our problem. I'll be their beta tester for a while. But if this is still a problem when Forza 7 arrives, I'll just get my money back and bid PC2 goodbye.

snipeme77
22-09-2017, 15:17
Is there a option to turn off Vibration vs FFB? Forza has a similar problem when Vibration is turned on, every bump makes the wheel jerk around like snake on cocaine

Pitseleh
22-09-2017, 15:27
Same problem here with the Logitech G920 on Xbox One after full calibration and differents FFB settings.
Shakes left to right on straight lines and at 0mph.

Sean Reinhardl
22-09-2017, 15:28
What is working for me

Tx race wheel

My FFB settings are:

Flavour: Informative
Gain: 70
Volume: 38
Tone: 65
FX:65
Menu Spring Strength: 0.05

Version of the game is: V1.0.0.13.0842

Xbox One S.

Methadone Man
22-09-2017, 15:40
Just booted up the Forza 7 demo to try it again and make sure something didn't get messed up with the wheel internally. It plays just fine on the demo. Force feedback works. No issues. Easy to adjust the settings. None of the nonsense I'm dealing with now. I've basically thrown away my morning being a failed beta tester for Slightly Mad. Well, I guess they at least got their name right. That's exactly how I fell now.

Please someone find a good setting mix for Logitech g920 and I will love you long time.

pad242
22-09-2017, 15:41
Also, try to start a race with wet tires, i still think its an issue with how the game tries to send cold tire data to the TX wheel

Pitseleh
22-09-2017, 15:42
Just booted up the Forza 7 demo to try it again and make sure something didn't get messed up with the wheel internally. It plays just fine on the demo. Force feedback works. No issues. Easy to adjust the settings. None of the nonsense I'm dealing with now. I've basically thrown away my morning being a failed beta tester for Slightly Mad. Well, I guess they at least got their name right. That's exactly how I fell now.

Please someone find a good setting mix for Logitech g920 and I will love you long time.

I won't be as patient as you are. PC1 already took months to be playable. I'm not waiting again.
Does one of you know how to ask for a refund when the game's been bought on the Xbox Live Market ?

Siberian Tiger
22-09-2017, 15:43
You have to contact Microsoft Support...

Pitseleh
22-09-2017, 16:12
You have to contact Microsoft Support...

Thank you.

Methadone Man
22-09-2017, 17:16
Thank you.

Let us know if you were successful in getting your money back. I may follow suit if it's a straight forward process.

Oh man. I needs some tater tots for all this salt. Game's got me all worked up this morning.

pad242
22-09-2017, 19:19
UPDATE: I was able to get the Quick Race to work with AI by doing the following.

First I disabled the Practice and Qualifying modes, then I changed my tire setup to start on Wet tires and did a rolling start. I think the issue is that the game is sending faulty 'cold tire' data to the TX wheel which causes it to jerk out of control. When I changed over to the race set-up just described, I noticed that my tires didn't start off 'cold' anymore but instead already had heat in them (they were green). This somehow caused the issue to go away...

mkstatto
22-09-2017, 20:43
UPDATE: I was able to get the Quick Race to work with AI by doing the following.

First I disabled the Practice and Qualifying modes, then I changed my tire setup to start on Wet tires and did a rolling start. I think the issue is that the game is sending faulty 'cold tire' data to the TX wheel which causes it to jerk out of control. When I changed over to the race set-up just described, I noticed that my tires didn't start off 'cold' anymore but instead already had heat in them (they were green). This somehow caused the issue to go away...

Similar findings with me after a day with it and my TAX and F1 wheel add on. Seems to be the cold tires that TAX doesn't like, mines goes all 'notchy' and I can really struggle to get of the pit lane as it goes from side to side. Tried both immersive and informative flavours without messing with the filters, and appears of both.

On a side note, im finding tire warm up extremely slow and my newly starting Ginetta GT5 career is faultering at the first event as the tires go cold on lap two at Oulten and I can't maintain heat.

bluesky0870
22-09-2017, 23:14
Similar findings with me after a day with it and my TAX and F1 wheel add on. Seems to be the cold tires that TAX doesn't like, mines goes all 'notchy' and I can really struggle to get of the pit lane as it goes from side to side. Tried both immersive and informative flavours without messing with the filters, and appears of both.

On a side note, im finding tire warm up extremely slow and my newly starting Ginetta GT5 career is faultering at the first event as the tires go cold on lap two at Oulten and I can't maintain heat.

I am using the TMX wheel pro with T3PA pedals, which is the little sister of your TX, with adjusted settings. If you like I can post them tomorrow (maybe in 10 hours or so). The settings work in raw and informative mode for me. Immersive does feel a bit to rough for my taste.

At Oulton l've struggled too with the Ginetta GT5. But it isn't the car, it handles great at all other tracks in this race series. Other cars like the Z4 GT3 or the Lotus 78 are loosing grip at Oulton even in clear and dry conditions. So I think it must be the surface or something like that. Oulton by the way was pain in the a** in PC1 too.

06R6Rider
22-09-2017, 23:16
Similar findings with me after a day with it and my TAX and F1 wheel add on. Seems to be the cold tires that TAX doesn't like, mines goes all 'notchy' and I can really struggle to get of the pit lane as it goes from side to side. Tried both immersive and informative flavours without messing with the filters, and appears of both.

On a side note, im finding tire warm up extremely slow and my newly starting Ginetta GT5 career is faultering at the first event as the tires go cold on lap two at Oulten and I can't maintain heat.

I use a TX base with 599XX wheel,and have found this as well. It seems to only effect some classes.I loaded 19 opponents on Oschersleben with no practice or qualify and ffb was fine.With both GTE and GT3 cars. If I tried qualifying,ffb was jerking side to side and pulling off-center going in straight line. But, if I pushed through it until tires warmed up, ffb smoothed out and after 7 or 8 laps it was fine. I tried GT1, GTO, Group5, Group C, LMP3, and GT4 cars (not every car, but at least 1 from each class),and the ffb was fine with all, even on cold tires + 19 AI cars during qualifying.

aleph99
23-09-2017, 05:40
At this point, it seems we are having two different kinds of problems. With TMX wheels (and perhaps others) the issue comes and goes depending on AI, tire temperature, pre-race practice, etc. With G920 wheels the issue is permanent: you just enter any track with any car and the wheel starts to wobble.

So, in short, the game was launched with serious and widespread problems involving at least the two top wheel brands for the Xbox One. I was trying to avoid non-constructive comments, but I can't help wondering who these "Professional QA Testers" hired by SMS actually are and what they did their testing with.

bluesky0870
23-09-2017, 06:33
I am using the TMX wheel pro with T3PA pedals, which is the little sister of your TX, with adjusted settings. If you like I can post them tomorrow (maybe in 10 hours or so). The settings work in raw and informative mode for me. Immersive does feel a bit to rough for my taste.

As promised:

Configuration tab completely unchanged
FFB:
Gain: between 45 and 65, depending on your likes and preferences
Volume 55
Tone 40
FX 40
Menu...

These values work fine for me in raw mode as well as in informative mode.

Ronald0505
23-09-2017, 11:25
Driving in the snow is also impossible with these issue, i'm really starting to get pissed off right now! This game is far from done, what have the testers been doing? Really can't understand this, so for my frustration, but everytime I look forward to a game I get dissapointed as hell with all the bugs and glitches. I know there are alwats some issues on day one, but this are the exact same issues with Project CARS 1, they didn't learned a thing about those issues! I hope Forza 7 and Gran Turismo Sports will do much better and I'll put this game far from my sight, because this is bad for my heart. Please do not hate me for this post, but I payed 160 euro's for the collectors edition and what do I get? A #$%@* broken game! FIX THIS!

aleph99
23-09-2017, 15:21
I've tried all settings suggested here and elsewhere. They dampen or mask the wobbling problem, but do not solve it. It seems controller users are also facing similar problems (http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?51707-Can-t-get-the-car-to-stay-straight-(controller)). I think it goes deeper than that and will require a game fix.

Pitseleh
23-09-2017, 15:27
I've tried all settings suggested here and elsewhere. They dampen or mask the wobbling problem, but do not solve it. It seems controller users are also facing similar problems (http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?51707-Can-t-get-the-car-to-stay-straight-(controller)). I think it goes deeper than that and will require a game fix.

It sure will, unfortunately. But if we are able to make it at least "playable" - not enjoyable, playable -, then it's better than nothing... I guess

Sean Reinhardl
23-09-2017, 16:28
Updated my settings with this


What is working for me

Tx race wheel

My FFB settings are:

Flavour: Informative
Gain: 50
Volume: 50
Tone: 65
FX:75
Menu Spring Strength: 0.05

Version of the game is: V1.0.0.13.0842

Xbox One S.

T Ghost
23-09-2017, 16:42
At this point, it seems we are having two different kinds of problems. With TMX wheels (and perhaps others) the issue comes and goes depending on AI, tire temperature, pre-race practice, etc. With G920 wheels the issue is permanent: you just enter any track with any car and the wheel starts to wobble.

So, in short, the game was launched with serious and widespread problems involving at least the two top wheel brands for the Xbox One. I was trying to avoid non-constructive comments, but I can't help wondering who these "Professional QA Testers" hired by SMS actually are and what they did their testing with.

A racing simulation game that doesn't work with racing wheels. in 2017. Sorry SMS but this is below shameful. Shows profound disregard to your core audience. Your game is broken at basics of a user input interface, should never gone gold.

Juiced46
23-09-2017, 16:54
My Thrustmaster TX is working for me so far. I got in about 2 hours of play time today.

I am running an Xbox One S Digital Download.

I started off with informative default settings and did a few Quick Race custom races, zero issues.

Switched to Raw settings and added a bit heavier feel. Played for about an hour with multiple cars with no issue at all. I will report back with the version # I am on. But so far so good (fingers crossed)

Vsix
23-09-2017, 17:31
I have also same problem with my csw v2 wheel.
Force feedback working great when I drive alone but with 15AI my wheel express harsh bump feel (It's really wierd.)

Ronald0505
23-09-2017, 17:42
My Thrustmaster TX is working for me so far. I got in about 2 hours of play time today.

I am running an Xbox One S Digital Download.

I started off with informative default settings and did a few Quick Race custom races, zero issues.

Switched to Raw settings and added a bit heavier feel. Played for about an hour with multiple cars with no issue at all. I will report back with the version # I am on. But so far so good (fingers crossed)

With how many AI drivers did you tested it?

zzjorzz
23-09-2017, 18:08
Just calibrate your wheel to full rotation and let Pcars and the soft lock do the rest.

Noob question, what is soft lock?

Juiced46
23-09-2017, 18:53
With how many AI drivers did you tested it?

0 AI vehicles, which could be why its working fine for me.

How many AI drivers do you have turned on when your issues happen, what tracks, cars etc? I will give it a test.

Ronald0505
23-09-2017, 18:55
0 AI vehicles, which could be why its working fine for me.

How many AI drivers do you have turned on when your issues happen, what tracks, cars etc? I will give it a test.

Well, right now i'm testing it out, but it starts with 15 AI, but would you test it out with a full grid and let me know what happens?

Juiced46
23-09-2017, 18:59
Well, right now i'm testing it out, but it starts with 15 AI, but would you test it out with a full grid and let me know what happens?

Will do. I will go give it a shot right now. Just to confirm. Full Grid, Quick/Custom race correct?

oscarolim
23-09-2017, 18:59
Noob question, what is soft lock?

If a car in real life only has a 600 degree rotation angle, for example, then the wheel will only rotate 600 degrees.

Ronald0505
23-09-2017, 19:04
Will do. I will go give it a shot right now. Just to confirm. Full Grid, Quick/Custom race correct?

Yes correct and thanks

gusbh
23-09-2017, 19:28
sms..please check these issues asap. we are anxious to play the game

Juiced46
23-09-2017, 19:38
Yes correct and thanks

Here ya go. I had no issues. I had one weird twitch on the straight but I think it may have been a bump. Other then that, it drives flawless. No shaking and I do not hit full lock on turning. Turns are fine. Do not mind my driving, first time with this car and track, plus I chopped off the tip of my middle finger at work yesterday lol.

Thrustmaster TX.
Xbox One S.
Digital Downloaded game
Wheel calibrated on 900* DOR and set to RAW
Imola Quick/Custom Race with 31 cars.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pD4NmuGcs94&t=99s

Ronald0505
23-09-2017, 19:47
Here ya go. I had no issues. I had one weird twitch on the straight but I think it may have been a bump. Other then that, it drives flawless. No shaking and I do not hit full lock on turning. Turns are fine. Do not mind my driving, first time with this car and track, plus I chopped off the tip of my middle finger at work yesterday lol.

Thrustmaster TX.
Xbox One S.
Digital Downloaded game
Wheel calibrated on 900* DOR and set to RAW
Imola Quick/Custom Race with 31 cars.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pD4NmuGcs94&t=99s

Thanks for testing it out, you're a lucky bastard haha! I wish I could enjoy the game as you do.

Ronald0505
23-09-2017, 19:49
Oh and the middel finger part hurts man... good luck with that.

Soon I'll habe the XBox One X so I hope it runs better on that machine :D

Juiced46
23-09-2017, 19:50
Thanks for testing it out, you're a lucky bastard haha! I wish I could enjoy the game as you do.

I think for you, start with the basics.

Delete game and do a fresh install. Is yours a download or disc? XB1 or XB1S?

Check your USB cable, maybe something is up with it.

Reinstall firmware for the wheel.

Calibrate wheel to 900 and retest.

Goodluck

Ronald0505
23-09-2017, 20:25
I think for you, start with the basics.

Delete game and do a fresh install. Is yours a download or disc? XB1 or XB1S?

Check your USB cable, maybe something is up with it.

Reinstall firmware for the wheel.

Calibrate wheel to 900 and retest.

Goodluck

Deleted the game and savegame earlier today. No results.
Thanks for the advice. Maybe will try to reinstall the firmware of the wheel tomorrow.

zzjorzz
23-09-2017, 20:33
If a car in real life only has a 600 degree rotation angle, for example, then the wheel will only rotate 600 degrees.

Thanks!

gusbh
23-09-2017, 20:44
Thanks!

so, it is easy now. i suggest that you include each car whell rotation information in the game. thanks!!

theblacknight
23-09-2017, 22:04
The solution to most of you to fix the FFB is to download and use Jack Spades Force Feedback Custom files.. I have a Thrustmaster TX and the FFB no matter what i did, didnt feel right at all with a horrible huge deadzone in the middle.. Soon as i've tried Jacks files, it was like waving a magic wand!

I have the default settings in the Thrustmaster control panel as normal and these set ingame

Gain: 100
Volume: 55
Tone: 50
FX: 50

Using Jacks preset: standard mid comp..

Just download the files, test each one for preference. Full instructions on jacks post here: http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?51628-Jack-Spade-Custom-FFB-Files

Ronald0505
23-09-2017, 22:30
The solution to most of you to fix the FFB is to download and use Jack Spades Force Feedback Custom files.. I have a Thrustmaster TX and the FFB no matter what i did, didnt feel right at all with a horrible huge deadzone in the middle.. Soon as i've tried Jacks files, it was like waving a magic wand!

I have the default settings in the Thrustmaster control panel as normal and these set ingame

Gain: 100
Volume: 55
Tone: 50
FX: 50

Using Jacks preset: standard mid comp..

Just download the files, test each one for preference. Full instructions on jacks post here: http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?51628-Jack-Spade-Custom-FFB-Files

That's for PC users, this thread is for XBox users, so this is irrelevant.

Juiced46
23-09-2017, 22:31
The solution to most of you to fix the FFB is to download and use Jack Spades Force Feedback Custom files.. I have a Thrustmaster TX and the FFB no matter what i did, didnt feel right at all with a horrible huge deadzone in the middle.. Soon as i've tried Jacks files, it was like waving a magic wand!

I have the default settings in the Thrustmaster control panel as normal and these set ingame

Gain: 100
Volume: 55
Tone: 50
FX: 50

Using Jacks preset: standard mid comp..

Just download the files, test each one for preference. Full instructions on jacks post here: http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?51628-Jack-Spade-Custom-FFB-Files

I think you may be mistaken. We are talking about a console here, we cannot download those files.

Methadone Man
23-09-2017, 22:38
The solution to most of you to fix the FFB is to download and use Jack Spades Force Feedback Custom files.. I have a Thrustmaster TX and the FFB no matter what i did, didnt feel right at all with a horrible huge deadzone in the middle.. Soon as i've tried Jacks files, it was like waving a magic wand!

I have the default settings in the Thrustmaster control panel as normal and these set ingame

Gain: 100
Volume: 55
Tone: 50
FX: 50

Using Jacks preset: standard mid comp..

Just download the files, test each one for preference. Full instructions on jacks post here: http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?51628-Jack-Spade-Custom-FFB-Files

Hang on, I see a typo. Let me fix that for you.

1. Download Jack-Spade-Custom-FFB-Files to your computer.

2. Look at it and wonder what it must be like to play a functional racing sim. Cook some Tater Tots to go with all my salt.

3. Come back to this xbox forum and keep watching to see if someone comes up with a proper workaround for the xbox settings or the developers announce something. Perhaps if we show a little leg it might get their attention.

4. Sit in front of Xbox and play Project Cars 1, Forza Horizon 3, or wait for Forza 7. Since we cannot change files for Project Cars 2 on console.

5. Gently remind our Personal Computer Project Car 2 players that they have their own forum and to please stop telling us that they don't have problem with their wheel and "oh you just need to calibrate your wheel". Not picking on anyone. Just that I've seen multiple PC gamers come into this forum the last 48 hours and dispense cursory advice, completely oblivious that this is the console sub-forum and that we've already tried "turning it off and on again" preliminary trouble shooting.

Will this magical file will even work for the Personal Computer version of Project Cars 2? It's a completely different game and different way they did the Force Feedback settings than the first Project Cars game.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nn2FB1P_Mn8

aleph99
23-09-2017, 23:15
The link posted by theblacknight actually refers to Jack Spade's files for Project Cars 2, which already has 95 pages. Quite worrisome, in my view. The original Jack Space thread, with its near 500 pages, is a monument to the failure of Project Cars 1: a guy who decided singlehandedly to fix what the developers couldn't or wouldn't. It is also one of the reasons I gave up on PC1 altogether. When I complained about the FFB, people - even from SMS - would refer me to this thread. It's a very laudable effort, but don't have time for that, I'd rather read the Divine Comedy.

RomKnight
23-09-2017, 23:56
Err.. I never used his settings. Then again I like to tinker and personally, PWM settings in pC1 were the best stuff in there. Also, the axis (still not sure how can one not comprehend a simple axis system to setup their ffb in pC1 in the car setup but I digress)

But I fail to see a thread in a forum can be proof of anything especially considering the above.

I spend my day online and TBH 90% of the post in social media and forums are pure waste of resources. I work with clouds storage in particular so I have "a bit" of an inside look.

Juiced46
24-09-2017, 22:23
Ronald, did you have any time today for more testing? Have you changed any settings in the game not related to the wheel? I'm curious to what your issue is.

Not to brag, but I put another hour of racing into career mode and it worked flawless.

T Ghost
25-09-2017, 01:36
Deleted the game and savegame earlier today. No results.
Thanks for the advice. Maybe will try to reinstall the firmware of the wheel tomorrow.

Would you mind please telling How to reinstall wheel firmware? Google is not aware of this...

Juiced46
25-09-2017, 01:38
Would you mind please telling How to reinstall wheel firmware? Google is not aware of this...

Go to Thrusmasters site. Download wheel firmware. Follow instructions to install.

AFM
25-09-2017, 09:51
I turn my Thrustmaster TX as far as I can on the calibration screen. I get a 100. I then turn the wheel 90° to when I see 900 on the screen (my base is on default 900° of rotation). My wheel has been properly calibrated.
240339
These are my sliders. I've lowered Gain down to 90. Everything else is default.
240257

Now as with PC1. I leave my TX on the default 900°of rotation. The game does soft lock for adjusting DOR by the car type. Really no reason to change it on the TX base IMO.

I haven't experienced nothing but smooth wheel operation. Just ran a 31 AI car grid at Long Beach & everything was good to go.

I will be lowering the gain a little bit more for over all feel.

UPDATE I've settled on 70 for my gain number. Suits me :)

Thank God some one posted this photo of the steering calibration especially the steering lock for my Thustmaster wheel as I have tried for hours to adjust it on my Xbox 1 running my new PC 2

nissan4ever
25-09-2017, 14:55
Thank God some one posted this photo of the steering calibration especially the steering lock for my Thustmaster wheel as I have tried for hours to adjust it on my Xbox 1 running my new PC 2

No problem :)

winet
25-09-2017, 15:09
I am running a Thrustmaster TS-PC without any issues. If I was having a problem the first thing I would do is make sure I did a fresh install of the firmware. Also there was no mention if you firmware is the latest. If I missed it I apologize

T Ghost
25-09-2017, 15:18
Go to Thrusmasters site. Download wheel firmware. Follow instructions to install.

Oh, I tought you had a Logitech, nevermind.

Ronald0505
25-09-2017, 16:09
Ronald, did you have any time today for more testing? Have you changed any settings in the game not related to the wheel? I'm curious to what your issue is.

Not to brag, but I put another hour of racing into career mode and it worked flawless.

No I didn't, I gave up, i'm just waiting for Forza 7 release wich I can buy this friday and I'll leave Project Cars 2 far far away from my sight, hate that game so much at this state, so I decided to wait a few patches. And I guess that will be over a half year waiting on those patches, i'm done playing this broken game.

Juiced46
25-09-2017, 16:11
No I didn't, I gave up, i'm just waiting for Forza 7 release wich I can buy this friday and I'll leave Project Cars 2 far far away from my sight, hate that game so much at this state, so I decided to wait a few patches. And I guess that will be over a half year waiting on those patches, i'm done playing this broken game.

That is unfortunate. I play Forza as well, but not a fan of Forza using the wheel. It is just not accurate. Sorry to hear you are giving up.

GTsimms
25-09-2017, 16:15
No I didn't, I gave up, i'm just waiting for Forza 7 release wich I can buy this friday and I'll leave Project Cars 2 far far away from my sight, hate that game so much at this state, so I decided to wait a few patches. And I guess that will be over a half year waiting on those patches, i'm done playing this broken game.

The game just came out! They are aware of bugs, the mods here are providing them a list!

JuniorJH
26-09-2017, 10:56
Do we know if there is going to be a fix for this at some point?

I have the exact same problem. Beautiful ffb in practice on my own, but race with AI and got bad shaking wheel starting in the pit lane. I have not tried less than 20 AI so i will try reducing this tonight.

Is anyone experiencing this issue in online lobbies?

Juiced46
26-09-2017, 13:15
Do we know if there is going to be a fix for this at some point?

I have the exact same problem. Beautiful ffb in practice on my own, but race with AI and got bad shaking wheel starting in the pit lane. I have not tried less than 20 AI so i will try reducing this tonight.

Is anyone experiencing this issue in online lobbies?


The developers are aware, I am confident it will be fixed. For now, lower the amount of AI cars. For the guys that are having issues, this seems to be fixing it.

Are you on an Xbox One or One S and are you using a digital download or disc version?

Super Supes
26-09-2017, 13:27
The game just came out! They are aware of bugs, the mods here are providing them a list!

Not quite sure why the fact it just came out is suitable as a reason.
Its like buying a brand new car that doesnt have working brakes and the dealer responds with " Well its only just ckme out, wait and see if we can release bits to make it do what its supposed to" ....

Ive played about with the settings and thought i had it sussed until i jumped into an online lobby and it all seemed to go haywire.
So think im going to reset to default and start over

JuniorJH
26-09-2017, 13:33
The developers are aware, I am confident it will be fixed. For now, lower the amount of AI cars. For the guys that are having issues, this seems to be fixing it.

Are you on an Xbox One or One S and are you using a digital download or disc version?

Thanks i will try lowering the AI tonight.
I am on the original Xbox1 and have disc version of the game.

ESS Roadhog
26-09-2017, 20:03
As mentioned several times- this is a known issue, reported multiple times.

Based on everything I've read, the issue is increasing the AI count in custom single player races causes all wheel output (centering/ffb/fx) to get whacked- generally- heavy oscillation- clipping on FX (very high FFB output to the wheel.)

This issue is on consoles only (no reports of this issue on PC that I could find) and reported on all manufacturers of wheels- not wheel specific (I have a Fanatec CSW v2 and I have the issue as well.)

My workaround until a patch comes through . . .
I tried just the AI count reduction, and still had some ffb issues (mostly with fx that were too strong- road feel/kerbs), what worked for me was to choose "set to default" on all custom race options- time of day/weather/opponents/rules etc. Literally go through every option page on the custom race setup and default them. Exit the custom race option and allow the settings to save (brief animated yellow icon bottom right of display- happens fast and you may not actually even see it.) Exit game. Restart game. I can now adjust any custom race setting (EXCEPT AI COUNT- LEAVE THAT AS IT IS- THE GAME MAY CHANGE THE DEFAULT COUNT DEPENDING ON THE TRACK/RACE/CAR/SETTINGS) and run all three sessions and the handling/ffb of the custom race matches the hot lapping. No need to uninstall game/wipe save files or anything that drastic. It is also strongly recommended that you check with your wheel manufacturer and verify you are running the latest firmware for your wheel (if it's upgradable.) Play testing was not likely performed on devices running old firmware- too many combinations to test. If your running old firmware- expect substandard results at best. If you still have issues after what I've mentioned above- there is probably something else wrong (calibration/ffb settings/wheel settings.) If in doubt, default as many game/wheel settings as possible- as these are the settings used/created by testers. While you may not like the feel personally, the settings should be playable. Adjust to taste in small increments if you are unhappy with the feel- you can now do this on the fly in a test or race session without having to back all the way out to options (thank you SMS.)

This issue should not be confused with what appears to be an issue with the Logitech G920 wheel- which involves the wheel pulling strongly left or right in all events. That is a separate issue, also known by SMS and noted as being looked at. I don't have this wheel, so I can't speak directly to the issue other than noting that some users are simply dropping the gain to taste and zeroing out the FX setting, and they are able to use the wheel to play the game. Again, just what I have read.

I know some folks were talking about tire types and temps having something to do with this issue- I don't believe that to be the case. After going through the steps above, I can start standing or rolling with any tire type for all three sessions without ffb issues- provided I do not alter the AI count.

I understand the frustration, especially given how all of this wheel/ffb business went with PC1, but I would never compare what I'm getting out of my wheel at this point in PC2 to what I got out of PC1 and I can easily wait for a patch just to add more competitors. PC2 ffb on my CSW is superior to anything I experienced on PC1- even with all the patches/spade files and settings/tweaking. For those anxious to get a refund and jump to Forza 7 in hopes of a better experience- I've played that demo- the experience isn't even as good as Forza 4 on my older CSR wheel. Unless something changes in the next three days, Forza 7 feels to me like it's going to need PC1 level of tinkering just to get it close to Forza 4- and remember Forza 7 doesn't save separate ffb setting for each car like PC1 did- you are going to need a 700 page notebook for ffb settings. DOR is all wrong as 540 is defaulting for road cars and the Porsche is way to twitchy, gforce loading in sweepers needs a tweak as it is either too weak or doesn't ramp realistically, and other than the kerbs- the track itself is smooth as glass with no fx. I'm buying Forza 7, but I already know not to compare it to PC2. PC2 is a driving simulator, meant to be played with a wheel, Forza is an arcade game meant to be played with a controller. I digress . . .

JuniorJH
27-09-2017, 08:25
Just confirming that lowering the AI fixed my issues. Also raced online and had no ffb issues either.

HaglePer
27-09-2017, 09:16
Hi guys
Been playing since release on a xbox one, tx wheel. Standard settings, haven't even been in the menus for the calibration. Think my rotation is 540 (I used that on dirt rally a few months back)
Played with 2 friends online, no ai, having a blast. Played some career without problems, until yesterday. Started a new career with a Porshce 911 gt3 car. Couldn't drive in a straight line. It was late and i turned off. Will check after work if the AI count was high.
Other than that I've had no other wheel problems, actually the game/wheel/force feedback have been perfect.

jockyjalopy
27-09-2017, 23:12
fyi,jack spade says ffb settings start with raw,100,50,50,50.i did this and love it

T Ghost
28-09-2017, 00:55
Jack Spade settings are for PC, a version that does NOT have the same FFB issues that Xbox One version does.

kosario13
28-09-2017, 19:45
hi guys , thanks for the tips to reduce I.A to 10 max , i can make little race and test cars on private test . Waiting now for this patch for start a career now ...hope this bug will be fix quickly because wheel is shaking and impossible to stay straight , with every cars , on every track , and apparently on every wheel you have .

i have a trustmaster TMX on standard xbox one .

Juiced46
28-09-2017, 19:55
For you guys that are having problems or even the guys that are having none, can you answer a few questions.

Mine are in red and doing all of this I have zero issues even with Max AI count.

What Console? Xbox One or One S? One S
Disc version or Digital Download? Digital Download
Do you power the wheel up before you turn on the Xbox or after it gets to the home screen? Wheel is plugged in before Xbox turns on
Do you start the game from home screen with controller or wheel? Start game from Home Screen with controller
When the game is at the "Start Engine" Screen, do you press A with your controller or wheel? I press A on Steering wheel at Start Engine screen and sign in the wheel to my user profile
Do you have you Xbox set to instant on? I do not use instant on.

Ball325
28-09-2017, 21:35
I haven't had this AI issue, but I had plenty of others.

I've had crazy FFB spikes and just overall poor feel in the wheel. In order to get my wheel to stop trying to rip itself out of my hands on a straight away I had to turn the vibration and fx settings WAY down. The wheels FFB was smoother, but still a bit jerky and really light, I upped the saturation to make it feel heavier which sort of also dulled down some of the other issues so it was smoother, but it's so far from ideal that it's a little disheartening. The RAW settings feels the best, but I had terrible handling issues with it, i kept losing the back end of the car. Also, I found it odd that on RAW it was the only flavor that runs the fan in my TX Base. Also even with 0 deadzones there is still a big sloppy area in the center.

I found immersive to give me the best feel of the back end of the car, but my FFB is so messed up that I can't even feel kerbs when I hit them, but if I try to bring them back it feel likes I'm driving off road every time I go through a high-speed corner. I've been racing real cars for close to 20 years, they don't do that.

I believe they can fix it and get it right and oddly I've driven a few cars that feel great and others that feel awful. The heavier cars with down force tend to give better feedback than the ones that are smaller, lighter and no DF.

Still feels better than Forza 6. In F1 2017 I have great wheel feel. Hopefully there is just an issue with the TX and similar Thrustmaster bases and they can patch it.

MXR SMILER
28-09-2017, 23:36
There are some issues with wheels and will be dealt with in 'this patch or the next'. Read that from a mods post earlier - there are a lot of threads re wheel issues... have a look through those for more info.....