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The_Flurk
22-09-2017, 14:06
EDIT [READ FIRST PLEASE]
--------------------------------
Most of the compatibility issues have been solved.
Thank you devs and Fanatec :)

Tip: make sure you download and flash the latest firmware available at Fanatec (https://www.fanatec.com/eu-en/racing-wheels/csl-elite-racing-wheel-ps4.html#downloads).

Have fun!

------------------------------------------------------------
Hi,

Currently playing on PS4, my Fanatec CSL Elite PS4 feels like it's using generic FFB settings.

First problem: it is detected as type: wheel, make: Thrustmaster (??????) and finally model: "Fanatec CSRE" (not CSLE???).

Second problem: the force feedback is even worse than playing pcars1 in compatible mode with this wheel. Though in the settings "Gain", "Volume" and "Tone" do change things noticeably but the "FX" are useless and never change any feel. I never feel any bumps or even when the car's attacking big kerbs there's almost no reaction in the FFB. Even when driving over smaller kerbs, zero reaction. I recalibrated the wheel, tested out all "Flavours" of FFB, but the wheel feels useless at this point.

I am sure everything is working as it should be (hardware-wise) since other games, i.e. F1 2017, are delivering as they should.

Is there any official statement on support for the Fanatec CSL Elite PS4? And why are you branding it a Thrustmaster wheel, what the hell is up with that?

I feel very much left behind by the devs...

Sankyo
22-09-2017, 14:08
I have informed the devs to investigate.

The_Flurk
22-09-2017, 14:11
I have informed the devs to investigate.
Thank you for the immediate action.
Appreciate it.

Sum Dixon-Ear
22-09-2017, 14:38
Yeah, the game is unplayable with this wheel. The FFB changes all the time, sometimes there's grip in a straight line, sometimes not. The flavours usually just apply random concoctions of forces that feel nothing like driving. Total mess.

Sankyo
22-09-2017, 14:57
Could you guys make a screenshot of the FFB widget in the telemetry HUD and post it here?

kretsu
22-09-2017, 15:10
Agree from the first character to the last one... Sad, but true.

Sum Dixon-Ear
22-09-2017, 15:40
Here ya go.

240263

Andrew Weber
22-09-2017, 16:03
Wow. You are /massively/ saturating.

Are you at default settings for FFB for that shot?

Sankyo
22-09-2017, 16:10
Here ya go.

240263

Hold on, your sig says CSLEPS4 but the screenshot says CSRE. Which is it?

Sum Dixon-Ear
22-09-2017, 16:11
It was turned up just to get some FFB feeling.

Sum Dixon-Ear
22-09-2017, 16:12
The game thinks I am using a Thrustmaster Fanatec CSRE, I know that I am using the new CSLE PS4.

Sum Dixon-Ear
22-09-2017, 16:27
Is it a Thrustatec or a Fanmaster... who knows... who cares?

240265

The_Flurk
22-09-2017, 16:33
I would just like to add that everything Sum Dixon-Ear is posting is 100% correct.
The game recognizes our CSL Elite PS4 as a CSR Elite. Though the picture of the wheel is correct as you can see above.
FFB is a total mess though, no matter what setting I use, on whichever car...

Sum Dixon-Ear
22-09-2017, 16:37
I would just like to add that everything Sum Dixon-Ear is posting is 100% correct.
The game recognizes our CSL Elite PS4 as a CSR Elite. Though the picture of the wheel is correct as you can see above.
FFB is a total mess though, no matter what setting I use, on whichever car...

I would just like to say that I found this post to be rather immersive, very informative and even slightly raw... lol.

The_Flurk
22-09-2017, 16:42
I just noticed you are also combining the CSLEPS4 with the CSPv3. I have the exact same setup. The game greys out "Pedal Type" in the "Control Scheme" menu.
I don't know if this is normal behaviour? Pedals are working as they should though, with rumble and all.

Sum Dixon-Ear
22-09-2017, 16:53
Yeah, pedals are working perfectly.

It's a start.

Andrew Weber
22-09-2017, 18:13
Well, if nothing else, it looks like there is a device detection issue we need to fix.

Until then, I'd recommend using RAW, mapping the the volume and tone to wheel buttons, and trying to find the best sweet spot you can dialing those on track.

Sum Dixon-Ear
22-09-2017, 18:23
Well, if nothing else, it looks like there is a device detection issue we need to fix.

Until then, I'd recommend using RAW, mapping the the volume and tone to wheel buttons, and trying to find the best sweet spot you can dialing those on track.

Thanks for that Andrew, strangely the FFB is working well at the moment for some reason and I must say it is absolutely wonderful!

Titzon Toast
22-09-2017, 18:26
Well, if nothing else, it looks like there is a device detection issue we need to fix.

Until then, I'd recommend using RAW, mapping the the volume and tone to wheel buttons, and trying to find the best sweet spot you can dialing those on track.

Sorry for hijacking your thread Dixon.

@Andrew Weber

Can you have a look here please?

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?51639-T500rs-PS4-way-too-sensitive


Thank you.

Sum Dixon-Ear
22-09-2017, 18:27
It's not my thread and you're not sorry at all... haha.

Titzon Toast
22-09-2017, 18:46
It's not my thread and you're not sorry at all... haha.

You're right, I'm not.

Dev Nibor
22-09-2017, 23:36
Thanks for that Andrew, strangely the FFB is working well at the moment for some reason and I must say it is absolutely wonderful!

Mind sharing your settings? I have the same problem with my CSL Elite.

Sum Dixon-Ear
23-09-2017, 00:19
Sure, no problem - Informative, 100, 60, 35, 10

CPS-3
23-09-2017, 05:42
I made a similar topic in the main thread. I use a CSW V2 with a Drivehub so it is recognised as a csl elite but it also says Thrustmaster.
@OP: Are your dial switch and funky switch working in any game you've tried i.e F1 2017, AC?

Cornworld
23-09-2017, 07:15
Same setup and issues here. A fix would be highly appreciated because at the moment the game is hardly playable. FFB is all over the place. Will try the setting mentioned before and hope they provide some sort off solution.

DrGyproc
23-09-2017, 07:38
Same setup and issues here as well.
Can’t get the ffb working properly,tried everything.
No curb rumble whatsoever.
Hope this will be sorted out soon...........for now PC2 is going back on the shelf.

CPS-3
23-09-2017, 08:44
Are your dial switch and funky switch working in any game you've tried i.e F1 2017, AC?

The_Flurk
23-09-2017, 09:43
No, not really paid attention to it either. But I don't think so. It's too bad, the dial switch would be nice...
Oh by the way, I almost exclusively play with the Formula Carbon Rim.

CPS-3
23-09-2017, 14:08
I use the F1 rim also and the porsche most of the time, in p cars they did work sinve it was native supported on ps4, I could almost map all functions that i used most on my wheel buttons. Now, not so much, when they fix the keyboard support it will help but it was nice that almost everything was mapped on my rim

DrGyproc
23-09-2017, 15:48
Yes switches work fine in other games.

CPS-3
23-09-2017, 21:04
I just switched to Fanalogic mode on the drivehub so my csw v2 is recognized as a G29 and the ffb is way waaaaaazay better. Comparing to the G29 ffb, the Fanatec ffb is really bad. Hope they fix this problem soon

BrightDark
24-09-2017, 14:33
I'm experiencing the same as OP.
240396

oNo7b
25-09-2017, 11:24
Hi Guys,
Sorry for Doubleposting this.....also in Fanatec wheel users and FFB settings.

Using CSL Elite ps4 Version on PC.
Recognized Right as CSL Elite ps4...Wheel in PC Mode...Red LED.
BUT....FFB is a Joke in my Opinion. No Matter which Type of FFB in Game...it's BAD. Tried to change Settings "inwheel" Damper, Spring, dri....no way to get it right. Sometimes its snappy like a Automatic knife...Roadfeel is not there...no way to predict when Cars stepping out...no feeling of understeer....nothing feels nowwhere near something "real". Tried it whith Spades files....not feeling it. Would say pc1 did a better Job.
If someone can get me in a better Direction...would be Thankful!

Mike Montgomery
25-09-2017, 14:04
Is it a Thrustatec or a Fanmaster... who knows... who cares?

240265

It does detect the right wheel. But the Text is wrong

Sum Dixon-Ear
25-09-2017, 14:45
It does detect the right wheel. But the Text is wrong

Interesting, can you explain why it is recognised as a 900° wheel (like the CSR Elite) and not a 1080° wheel, which is the rotation of the new CSLE?

The FFB is also messed up.

BrightDark
25-09-2017, 20:47
Interesting, can you explain why it is recognised as a 900° wheel (like the CSR Elite) and not a 1080° wheel, which is the rotation of the new CSLE?

The FFB is also messed up.

I found that if I calibrated the wheel with SEN 108, the wheel would turn (almost) 1080 degrees. Felt like it soft-locked at the end. And if I changed to SEN 090, it would turn 900 degrees before it soft-locked. Got different numbers as a result when the calibration was ready to save.


It does detect the right wheel. But the Text is wrong

I see! I went back to the drawing board, and came up with something I am a lot more satisfied with.

Settings on the wheel:
SEN 090 (calibrated with this also)
FOR 120 (increased from 100)
DRi -5
SPR 050
DPR off
FEI 000

Game FFB:
Flavour: RAW
Gain: 100
Volume: 70
Tone: 54
FX: 60

This felt good, but I still think it was a little lacking around the first 20 or so degrees on each side of the wheel center.

Then I changed "Speed Sensitivity" from 50 to 0, and BAM! The centre was much tighter! I set it to 20 for now.

Damper saturation I set to 0.

I used the Caterham Seven on Knockhill, and it was amazing to drive it around there with Speed Sens between 0 and 20. I felt that was changing everything.

I did a reference test with the Ginetta LMP3 around the same track, and realized that Speed Sens might need to be upped a bit at high speed (of course...). I also got a little bit of clipping, so Gain might need to be reduced. But the FFB was great, regardless.

A little more testing, and I can go on with the driving. Which feels amazing!

Sum Dixon-Ear
25-09-2017, 22:05
That's an interesting idea.. I think I will try calibrating on forced 1080°, then switch to automatic/game defined afterwards and see if it helps. But, tbh, the FFB often feels different on the same car, same set up, same track, different session.

I often find that changing any perameter, even a tiny amount, results in either a very tight centre feel with oscillation (like a deadzone needs to be added) or complete lightness and lack of resistance unless driving a fast corner with oodles of lateral load.. then settles down again later to a more balanced, natural FFB output. I think I'm running 25 Speed Sensitivity at the mo.

The Caterham at Knockers is deadly!

The_Flurk
25-09-2017, 22:23
I found that if I calibrated the wheel with SEN 108, the wheel would turn (almost) 1080 degrees. Felt like it soft-locked at the end. And if I changed to SEN 090, it would turn 900 degrees before it soft-locked. Got different numbers as a result when the calibration was ready to save.



I see! I went back to the drawing board, and came up with something I am a lot more satisfied with.

Settings on the wheel:
SEN 090 (calibrated with this also)
FOR 120 (increased from 100)
DRi -5
SPR 050
DPR off
FEI 000

Game FFB:
Flavour: RAW
Gain: 100
Volume: 70
Tone: 54
FX: 60

This felt good, but I still think it was a little lacking around the first 20 or so degrees on each side of the wheel center.

Then I changed "Speed Sensitivity" from 50 to 0, and BAM! The centre was much tighter! I set it to 20 for now.

Damper saturation I set to 0.

I used the Caterham Seven on Knockhill, and it was amazing to drive it around there with Speed Sens between 0 and 20. I felt that was changing everything.

I did a reference test with the Ginetta LMP3 around the same track, and realized that Speed Sens might need to be upped a bit at high speed (of course...). I also got a little bit of clipping, so Gain might need to be reduced. But the FFB was great, regardless.

A little more testing, and I can go on with the driving. Which feels amazing!

Thanks for sharing. I'm going to test this tomorrow!

pover74
26-09-2017, 18:01
hi cps
3 is the drive hub any good do they make the force feedback any stronger pal

Dev Nibor
26-09-2017, 20:01
I found that if I calibrated the wheel with SEN 108, the wheel would turn (almost) 1080 degrees. Felt like it soft-locked at the end. And if I changed to SEN 090, it would turn 900 degrees before it soft-locked. Got different numbers as a result when the calibration was ready to save.



I see! I went back to the drawing board, and came up with something I am a lot more satisfied with.

Settings on the wheel:
SEN 090 (calibrated with this also)
FOR 120 (increased from 100)
DRi -5
SPR 050
DPR off
FEI 000

Game FFB:
Flavour: RAW
Gain: 100
Volume: 70
Tone: 54
FX: 60

This felt good, but I still think it was a little lacking around the first 20 or so degrees on each side of the wheel center.

Then I changed "Speed Sensitivity" from 50 to 0, and BAM! The centre was much tighter! I set it to 20 for now.

Damper saturation I set to 0.

I used the Caterham Seven on Knockhill, and it was amazing to drive it around there with Speed Sens between 0 and 20. I felt that was changing everything.

I did a reference test with the Ginetta LMP3 around the same track, and realized that Speed Sens might need to be upped a bit at high speed (of course...). I also got a little bit of clipping, so Gain might need to be reduced. But the FFB was great, regardless.

A little more testing, and I can go on with the driving. Which feels amazing!

Hi I tried your settings and I must say it's the best I felt so far.
Very nice.

But still I think we get too little feedback from the track, I cannot feel any curbs ever.

The_Flurk
27-09-2017, 18:18
To all CSLE PS4 owners & Slight Mad Studios,

I finally found some satisfaction.
This is very personal I think, but I would like to elaborate for the devs too.

Settings on the wheel:
SEN 042 (feel free to change of course, it's essentially steering angle divided by 10. I usually play from 380 - 540, very seldom do I race street cars)
FF 100 (this needs to be 100! Actually I never used 100 before. I play F1 2017 at 60, and that's pretty crazy if you're doing 100% races :D )
DRi 0 or OFF
DPR OFF (very important! really needs to be OFF because this even saturates more when enabled or >1. Normally I use the default value which is 100)
All other settings are personal preference and/or depend on the car you are driving.
I put FOR at 50
SPR at 100.

Overall on the wheel the values you want to use are FF 100 and DPR OFF.
Changing FOR feels like it changes the overall FFB, yet I feel like there are details that don't change 1/1.
SPR is something else, I have no clue what it does. Feels like it changes very little.

Game settings:
Flavour: RAW
Gain: 90 (not 100 to avoid clipping)
Volume: 30 (since total force (weight) on the wheel itself is already at 100 via the firmware settings I advise a sub 50 number ingame. Putting it >30 is just too strong for me personally)
Tone: 90 (100 gives max Fy forces, 0 gives you Fx forces which are already too strong by default, I need a lot of Fy or "tyre slip force" (personally) because I find the default gives me very late or even no feedback on what the back end is doing. check the ingame description)
FX: 100 (at 100 I can sometimes feel a very little kerb or bump feedback, woohoo!)

Overall the game settings feel like they have some weird offset (too low for Fy forces, Fx a bit too high (not sure) and very very very low Fz). Thankfully Tone can balance out Fx and Fy and so can the steering wheel's firmware.
Regarding the Fz force, if we could put FX on 500 it would be ok.

A lot depends on personal preference too I guess.

All settings depend on the type of car you are driving. I was testing the Mclaren 650s GT3 in Spa.
In general there are two turns where the back tends to step out under braking. The first is the right hander at Les Combes (turn 5) and the second is the right hander at Fagnes (Pif Paf, turn 12).
Here you can really test the "Tone" settings, putting it to 0-10 will leave you clueless on what the back of the car is doing under braking in these corners. Putting it to 50, you will notice, but too late. Putting it to 80-100 gives way better feedback.

Anyone have an idea on how to stop the awful oscillation on some straights? I think it's impossible without compromising the FFB quality (Probably because the "Volume" is still to high?).

Also, the CSPv2 brake pedal rumble is working as it should, even with ABS ingame off. I was wrong on that one. The CSPv2 work perfectly.

Probably right now it's a good idea to start playing with the FOR and SPR values on the steering wheel's firmware. But I am pretty content right now.
Such a shame we can't change the saturation levels, otherwise we'd be able to put it perfect! But you can't have it all...
Also, check pages 30 and 31 of the CSLE manual, VERY INFORMATIVE!!
https://www.fanatec.com/download/CSL%20E%20Racing%20Wheel%20PS4-Manual-EN.pdf

Still very much looking forward to the fix though.

Madwak55
27-09-2017, 18:23
See I told you I was having a blast with mine, I see you've just about copied the settings I suggested !!!

The_Flurk
27-09-2017, 18:25
See I told you I was having a blast with mine, I see you've just about copied the settings I suggested !!!

You're right. I used them as a base.
Thank you for sharing them, kind sir.

You should really put DRi to OFF or 0. Much more direct steering when correcting in turn.

boshot
28-09-2017, 13:36
...


...

sorry, I've to tag you like this, but:

Of course I've the same FFB Issues like the thread opener, but additionaly I've some freezes of the whole Wheel, too.

Fortunately the error occurs very rarely, my Wheel freezes completely during a race.
Acceleration is stuck and no FFB and steering is possible, BUT there is NO disconnection popup or something else.
The wheel isn't disconnected, Playstation Button is the only thing thats working. I've to close the game completely through the Playstation Quick menu and reboot it to fix it.

Could you please investigate this, too.

BrightDark
29-09-2017, 10:08
Just a quick update, i have had some time to test a couple of more cars.

I find that "Speed Sensitivity" doesn't affect the wheel much (if at all) at high speed (edited), when set to a low value. So I can use it to tighten the force-response around center.

I also use negative dri to induce some drag on the wheel. This is a conscious choice.
To get a more "moving" wheel, set dri higher (to 0, or to a positive value. In the latter case, the wheel will probably be bouncing, not moving). Possibly lower gain a bit with higher dri(?)


After testing more cars on more tracks:

Settings on the wheel:
SEN 090 (calibrated with 090)
FOR 120 (100-120, depending on car/track)
DRi -4 (-5 to -3, depending on car/track)
SPR 050
DPR off
FEI 000

Game FFB
Flavour: RAW
Gain: 100
Volume: 65 (62 - 70)
Tone: 52 (50 - 54)
FX: 65 (55 - 70)

Speed Sensitivity: 22 (0 - 30-ish, depending on car/track). Really tightens the center.
Damper: 0


I'm not completely satisfied with the FFB on my standard PS4. Kerbs are a little bit lacking, and the wheel can feel a little bit like the spring does more work than the motor. But it's starting to come together.

Also, the clutch behaves differently than on pCARS 1. I had deadzone set to 10-ish and Clutch Sens to 30-ish. That way the biting point was lifted a bit from the bottom of the travel, and the biting point also felt "stretched". Easier to to control the clutch at the start.

On pCARS 2 I can lift the biting point, but I can't stretch it. It's a very short travel from "contact" to "full lock" on my pedal.


The driving, though. That's addictive! Amazing! :D

Sankyo
29-09-2017, 10:18
Settings on the wheel:
SEN 042 (feel free to change of course, it's essentially steering angle divided by 10. I usually play from 380 - 540, very seldom do I race street cars)




SEN 090 (calibrated with 090)


Why are you guys using the wheel on a (much) lower rotation angle than recommended? What does it improve for you?

The whole game was built on the assumption that the full rotation angle of the wheel is used, and every car gets its own max rotation angle based on the real car. I'll have to ask whether using a lower wheel rotation may affect FFB quality, because IIRC from pC1 development it can.

Cornworld
29-09-2017, 12:49
Somehow it feels more connect to the car. Also in calibration when set to maximum rotation it doesn’t calibrate properly. Reaches about 94 degrees and the wheel feels more loose. Does this make any sense at all?

BrightDark
29-09-2017, 15:41
Why are you guys using the wheel on a (much) lower rotation angle than recommended? What does it improve for you?

The whole game was built on the assumption that the full rotation angle of the wheel is used, and every car gets its own max rotation angle based on the real car. I'll have to ask whether using a lower wheel rotation may affect FFB quality, because IIRC from pC1 development it can.


Somehow it feels more connect to the car. Also in calibration when set to maximum rotation it doesn’t calibrate properly. Reaches about 94 degrees and the wheel feels more loose. Does this make any sense at all?

Some of the reason is what Cornworld says.

For Project CARS 1, I used 900 degrees on my T300 wheel. I believe that this was recommended as well. When I bought the Fanatec PS4 in july, I tried both 108 and 090. 090 gave ar "firmer" wheel, but I couldn't discern any difference with regard to rotation.
- As long as the wheel is rotated 450 degrees in the first step of calibration on 090, and 540 on 108, I don't see how it would alter anything on steering ratio.

I do understand that calibrating and driving with 090 could reduce some of the bandwidth that the wheel has.


I simply assumed that this was the case with Project CARS 2 also.
If 108 (max rotation/bandwidth) is recommended, I will definitely try this and see what happens!

Can you point me to where the recommendation on rotation angle is, Remco?

Madwak55
29-09-2017, 17:23
Why are you guys using the wheel on a (much) lower rotation angle than recommended? What does it improve for you?

The whole game was built on the assumption that the full rotation angle of the wheel is used, and every car gets its own max rotation angle based on the real car. I'll have to ask whether using a lower wheel rotation may affect FFB quality, because IIRC from pC1 development it can.

We're not using smaller DOR I don't think, the wheel is calibrated at 1080 but we can use the on wheel settings to lock the rotation to near where it should be.
When I drive a new car I use that ffb graph thingy that shows your steering input, I set the wheel to 1080 and then see what DOR it takes to get to full lock on that display then turn the wheel down to that DOR.

DervPM
30-09-2017, 15:40
Thanks, merci, gracias, obrigada en bedankt Brightdark, your settings totally changed my game experience.. The other bugs I can live with for now, but at least I can race.. Thanks again..

tms
01-10-2017, 07:34
Has it been confirmed that there is something wrong with the wheel (other than the name beeing wrong)?

It's my first wheel so it's possible that I expected something else but the cornering just doesn't feel right regardless of the configuration.

BrightDark
01-10-2017, 08:49
Why are you guys using the wheel on a (much) lower rotation angle than recommended? What does it improve for you?

The whole game was built on the assumption that the full rotation angle of the wheel is used, and every car gets its own max rotation angle based on the real car. I'll have to ask whether using a lower wheel rotation may affect FFB quality, because IIRC from pC1 development it can.

I tried Calibrating with SEN set to "108" and "auto", and both gave 1080 degrees in calibration. It made no discernible difference to the FFB.

090, 108 and auto all works 1:1 with cockpit wheel in game vs my Fanatec wheel. I'll stick with "auto".



Has it been confirmed that there is something wrong with the wheel (other than the name beeing wrong)?

It's my first wheel so it's possible that I expected something else but the cornering just doesn't feel right regardless of the configuration.

No, I've not seen any confirmation.

Sum Dixon-Ear
02-10-2017, 14:37
Has it been confirmed that there is something wrong with the wheel (other than the name beeing wrong)?

It's my first wheel so it's possible that I expected something else but the cornering just doesn't feel right regardless of the configuration.


My mate and I both race with this wheel and the FFB is all over the place, random outputs... sometimes very light, sometimes very heavy, often completely undrivable. I get almost zero FFB through the wheel sometimes, yet the widget shows oversaturation. It's a bit of a joke at the moment tbh.

There's a hell of a lot more than just the text being erroneous here, that's for sure.

007ven
02-10-2017, 14:58
My mate and I both race with this wheel and the FFB is all over the place, random outputs... sometimes very light, sometimes very heavy, often completely undrivable. I get almost zero FFB through the wheel sometimes, yet the widget shows oversaturation. It's a bit of a joke at the moment tbh.

There's a hell of a lot more than just the text being erroneous here, that's for sure.

Same for me, I am also using this wheel and it feels so unnatural no matter what settings I use. I feel I am not really connected to the car. I can run over curbs and don't have any effect at all, In curves I get a strong effect, but on straights it feels then totally loose again. Really strange. I tried different settings with raw, immersive and informative, but all except raw made the feeling even worse and I went back to raw 100,50,50,20 setting.
I hope we can find the right settings or get some patches to sort this out and provide a proper feeling for the cars.

Sum Dixon-Ear
02-10-2017, 15:12
It's not a settings issue, no matter what you select, eventually it turns into a numb, lifeless mess. When the FFB acts up, go into settings, change one perameter by a single click and it feels a bit better... then after a while reverts to being useless. The GT3 cars are undrivable, my bud says they feel like they are being driven around a central axis instead of four tyres.

I really hope this is going to be recognised and fixed soon, because as it stands the game is pretty much unusable.

007ven
02-10-2017, 15:26
...
I really hope this is going to be recognised and fixed soon, because as it stands the game is pretty much unusable.

That's what I hope as well. It's not much fun driving the cars at the moment even though the presentation and atmosphere is nice...

Sum Dixon-Ear
02-10-2017, 15:46
Having said that... I just drove a career race in the G40 at Donington in the wet... and I could feel everything... even the rumble strips for the first time ever. The detail was unbelievable, subtle FFB nuances as I drove through differing amounts of water on the track (little bumps and nudges, truly superb), I even had the pedals rumbling with tiny amounts of traction loss over the kerbs at the final chicane... that was by far the best experience I've had in over 20 years of sim racing.

If only there was consistency, who knows what I'll get in the next race/session?

BrightDark
02-10-2017, 17:08
Having said that... I just drove a career race in the G40 at Donington in the wet... and I could feel everything... even the rumble strips for the first time ever. The detail was unbelievable, subtle FFB nuances as I drove through differing amounts of water on the track (little bumps and nudges, truly superb), I even had the pedals rumbling with tiny amounts of traction loss over the kerbs at the final chicane... that was by far the best experience I've had in over 20 years of sim racing.

If only there was consistency, who knows what I'll get in the next race/session?

This is what I'm hoping for.

Sum Dixon-Ear
02-10-2017, 17:18
Believe me, when it all comes together, it's breathtaking. More like voodoo than game code.. lol.

The_Flurk
02-10-2017, 20:39
Having said that... I just drove a career race in the G40 at Donington in the wet... and I could feel everything... even the rumble strips for the first time ever. The detail was unbelievable, subtle FFB nuances as I drove through differing amounts of water on the track (little bumps and nudges, truly superb), I even had the pedals rumbling with tiny amounts of traction loss over the kerbs at the final chicane... that was by far the best experience I've had in over 20 years of sim racing.

If only there was consistency, who knows what I'll get in the next race/session?

I completely agree with every comment. The FFB in wet is so much better for some reason. It's crazy. Even in the GT3 cars. I drove at Silverstone yesterday to try out the dynamic weather, it was for me too, the best experience yet.

wyldanimal
04-10-2017, 16:16
Believe me, when it all comes together, it's breathtaking. More like voodoo than game code.. lol.

Currently a G29 user.
in anticipation of pCars2, I ordered this combination, CSLE PS4 bundle and added V3 Pedals. It's on BO and Hasn't shipped yet.

From using the G29, Any Flavor but Raw, seems to have some type of Auto Gain, or Auto adjustment going on.
The FFB, changes with the more driving you do.
On RAW setting, it's seems to always be the same.

So I only use the RAW flavor.
could this be the same on the CSLE. Immersive or Informative are auto changing as you use it?

bd307
04-10-2017, 22:48
Received my CSL E with LC pedal yesterday. Set them all up based on BrightDark's setting. However, something does not feel right to me on the FFB. Also the LC pedal (brake) is very stiff with its original bushings/spacers. Going to play around with the pedal more later today.

BrightDark, have you found a better wheel and game settings?

The_Flurk
04-10-2017, 23:12
Received my CSL E with LC pedal yesterday. Set them all up based on BrightDark's setting. However, something does not feel right to me on the FFB. Also the LC pedal (brake) is very stiff with its original bushings/spacers. Going to play around with the pedal more later today.

BrightDark, have you found a better wheel and game settings?

Hi, you can try setting BRF on the steering wheel settings to another value to adjust the stiffness a bit. It should be at 050 by default, I can't remember if you need it closer to 000 or 100, but you can use the ingame hud as a reference to the amount of actual ingame braking power you're applying. :)
The settings BrightDark shared are probably the best we CSLE users have right now. You can tweak them a little bit for personal preference, but it's still bugged (oversaturated and no FX).

Sum Dixon-Ear
04-10-2017, 23:20
I thought that BRF was only for CSP V3s.. might be mistaken though.

EDIT : I am mistaken... again.

Sum Dixon-Ear
04-10-2017, 23:24
Anyway.. my motor has failed, went loose and weak the other night and is making an odd buzzing noise. Ho-bloody-hum, just my luck.

bd307
04-10-2017, 23:49
Hi, you can try setting BRF on the steering wheel settings to another value to adjust the stiffness a bit. It should be at 050 by default, I can't remember if you need it closer to 000 or 100, but you can use the ingame hud as a reference to the amount of actual ingame braking power you're applying. :)
The settings BrightDark shared are probably the best we CSLE users have right now. You can tweak them a little bit for personal preference, but it's still bugged (oversaturated and no FX).

Thanks. Stuck at work, but I just re-read the manual for BRF.

"BRF range: OFF 010 … 100 BRF default: 050
BRF allows to adjust the brake feeling: Increasing BRF to 100 means the user
needs to press the brake with minimum force to achieve 100% brake signal.
Reducing BRF to OFF means the user needs to press the brake only with maximum
force to achieve 100% brake signal."

Going to set it higher and going to play with shoes too!

Martini Da Gasalini
05-10-2017, 05:02
Anyway.. my motor has failed, went loose and weak the other night and is making an odd buzzing noise. Ho-bloody-hum, just my luck.
Whoa...your fanatec motor died? How old was the wheel?

Sum Dixon-Ear
05-10-2017, 11:22
Whoa...your fanatec motor died? How old was the wheel?

My wheel is exactly 4 months old.

Dev Nibor
05-10-2017, 11:29
geeesh, that doesn't sound promising. Do you think this might be related to PC2?

Sum Dixon-Ear
05-10-2017, 12:01
I can't see how, as the wheel can only operate within it's own inbuilt perameters, so a game cannot force a wheel to do something outside of it's designed limitations and FFB strengths etc. The wheel just gets a signal and processes it, if anything a wheel can break itself through poor design/failsafe settings, there's really no way a game can blow a motor by itself.

I'm not too bothered tbh as no company can supply 100% reliable components, that's just not reality... especially true with electronic parts. I've just been unlucky, it doesn't concern me at all. Unless there is an inherent issue with the motors (it has happened before) I'm pretty certain that it will be sorted out soon. I've not heard back from support in 48hrs though... that is quite a long time for them to respond these days.

The_Flurk
05-10-2017, 12:01
Anyway.. my motor has failed, went loose and weak the other night and is making an odd buzzing noise. Ho-bloody-hum, just my luck.

Sorry to hear that. They have pretty good customer support I think. You should be able to get a new base after some time. By then maybe we have a fix. :P

Sankyo
05-10-2017, 12:04
I can't see how, as the wheel can only operate within it's own inbuilt perameters, so a game cannot force a wheel to do something outside of it's designed limitations and FFB strengths etc. The wheel just gets a signal and processes it, if anything a wheel can break itself through poor design/failsafe settings, there's really no way a game can blow a motor by itself.

I'm not too bothered tbh as no company can supply 100% reliable components, that's just not reality... especially true with electronic parts. I've just been unlucky, it doesn't concern me at all. Unless there is an inherent issue with the motors (it has happened before) I'm pretty certain that it will be sorted out soon. I've not head back from support in 48hrs though... that is quite a long time for them to respond these days.
You liar :p Fanatec just responded to you, completely not related to me reading your posting :rolleyes:

Sum Dixon-Ear
05-10-2017, 12:26
You liar :p Fanatec just responded to you, completely not related to me reading your posting :rolleyes:

Haha, email just received and replied to... nice one bud! It's going for a wee holiday down to the UK Service Centre ASAP... thanks boss!

BrightDark
05-10-2017, 15:55
Received my CSL E with LC pedal yesterday. Set them all up based on BrightDark's setting. However, something does not feel right to me on the FFB. Also the LC pedal (brake) is very stiff with its original bushings/spacers. Going to play around with the pedal more later today.

BrightDark, have you found a better wheel and game settings?

No, I haven't. I've been trying out some more cars, and adjust strenght settings mostly. But small adjustments. Volume a little bit down or up, FOR at 100 ATM. Also Tone at 50 ATM.

FX adjustments doesn't do much, I find, also it seems as the SPR setting at the wheel doesn't change much on the FFB.

I also discovered that the little wheel at the lower left in Telemetry doesn't move. The vertical bar does, as does everything else. And the wheel in cocpit view matches my wheel 1:1.

BTW, my aim is to have one set of parameters for the FFB, both at the wheel and in the sim. And then enjoy the differences between the cars.

Diablo944
05-10-2017, 16:16
Sum Dixon-Ear. Awesome forum name.

unrealtairo
06-10-2017, 07:34
My fanatec wheel (usa ps4 model) v3 pedals and shifter come in a few days, first ever racing setup, so thanks for the improvement settings post.

Is the best experience for ffb right now with these settings in rainy weather then until its patched?
I want to enjoy my first, and expensive experience!

(Someone mentioned you can only feel everything when its raining)

Or rather, my whole family and daughters bfs probably will wanna too lol

Sankyo
06-10-2017, 07:36
My fanatec wheel, v3 pedals and shifter come in a few days, first ever racing setup, so thanks for the improvement settings post.

Is the best experience for ffd right now with these settings in rainy weather then until its patched?
I want to enjoy my first, and expensive expierence!
You'll have to try different settings and find what suits your taste and expectations best, as FFB is highly personal.

unrealtairo
06-10-2017, 07:51
Ok thanks. I guess what I was asking is the least ammount of bugs going to be noticed with rainy tracks.
As a complete sim newbie i have absolutely nothing to compare a bug too. I may be having an issue and, I dont realize its an issue.

The_Flurk
06-10-2017, 09:52
Ok thanks. I guess what I was asking is the least ammount of bugs going to be noticed with rainy tracks.
As a complete sim newbie i have absolutely nothing to compare a bug too. I may be having an issue and, I dont realize its an issue.

The results you'll get will be unreliable to say the least, but I had an amazing FFB experience in the rain. The best so far.
The only thing that was still missing was the FX (bumps, kerbs,...) but I'm pretty sure that I could feel them very slightly.
However, the day after, I tried the exact same race again only to discover that the FFB went back to "floating" and very generic feel.

wyldanimal
07-10-2017, 06:23
It has arrived.
Took some time to get the V3 Pedals to function...
After Flashing the firmware to the latest versions on both the Base and the Pedals.
the only way I can get them to work is to Start pCars2 with out the pedals connected.
after the game has started, plug the pedals into the base.

242103

242104

I'll have to try some of the settings posted here.
but this is what I ended up with.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lAUD3c3jThM


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OQO-gqM-ZTY

The_Flurk
07-10-2017, 09:05
The pedals and the brake and throttle rumble should work out of the box. I connect them to the wheelbase directly.

Can someone rationally explain to me why some CSLE users are calibrating at 1080 degrees and then set the wheel to a much lower value?
What is the benefit from this? I don't understand at all... I currently use the SEN: AUTO setting and calibrate the wheel in full 1080.

Cornworld
07-10-2017, 11:41
The pedals and the brake and throttle rumble should work out of the box. I connect them to the wheelbase directly.

Can someone rationally explain to me why some CSLE users are calibrating at 1080 degrees and then set the wheel to a much lower value?
What is the benefit from this? I don't understand at all... I currently use the SEN: AUTO setting and calibrate the wheel in full 1080.

They sometimes do and sometimes don’t. Had the rumble working in the Porsche GT3 car for a week. Didn’t change a thing to the settings and yesterday only the throttle rumble is working. Checked the settings on PC and all works well. So. Don’t know why or how but it sure isn’t stable. Annoying tbh because you kind off get used to the feel, when all off a sudden that rumble disappears the braking feels way different.

Rossi46 (NL)
08-10-2017, 15:30
Is there already news on an upcoming patch to fix all of this for the CSL elite (ps4).
Tomorrow i am getting my new CSL Elite PS4 edition since my fourth T300rs died......i didn't want a 5th.
Me (T300rs) and my racing mate (CSL Elite) where both having the same experiance with the ffb. A loose center feeling and no curb or road feel. We are really hoping this will be fixed in the first upcoming patch because it takes too long now before we have a playable game........
The GT3, GTE or LMP cars are the best drivable for me, the road cars are the worst. Sometimes just like driving on ice. No feeling at all.

wyldanimal
08-10-2017, 19:00
I did a quick search but didn't find anything.
V3 Pedals

On PS4 of Course.
Anyone else using the CSL E with V3 pedals, having a hard time getting the Pedals working?
Pedals connected to the base with the RJ cord.

If I start the game with the pedals already connected. when I get on track, the Pedals have no Function.
Can't even calibrate them, they just have no Input at all.

Whaty I have to do, is Un plug the RJ cord from the base.
Start the game
then after the game is started, Plug in the RJ cord to the base.
wait about 30 seconds, then the Pedals become functional.

I also notice that the Brake Pedal Vibration rarely works.
I've tried ABS setting down to 20. But No Brake Vibration.
the Throttle Pedal Vibration works.


Interesting to Note:
In Assetto Corsa, I also have to do the UnPlug, Plug in the cord thing to get the pedals to work.
But the Brake Vibration works like it is suposed to work. Press the Brake pedal hard enough, and you get the vibration.
in Fact, on the ABS setting, I can hold down the brake pedal and feel the vibration while adjusting it.
So I press about as hard as I think it should be, then Adjust ABS till I get the Vibration,
I can then relax the pressure, and the vibration stops. Apply more pressure, and it starts.
Real time adjustment and confirmation.

I can Not do that in pCars2.
Adjusting ABS, doesn't make the Brake pedal Vibrate while on the Setting.

phil_909
08-10-2017, 20:08
I did a quick search but didn't find anything.
V3 Pedals

On PS4 of Course.
Anyone else using the CSL E with V3 pedals, having a hard time getting the Pedals working?
Pedals connected to the base with the RJ cord.

If I start the game with the pedals already connected. when I get on track, the Pedals have no Function.
Can't even calibrate them, they just have no Input at all.

Whaty I have to do, is Un plug the RJ cord from the base.
Start the game
then after the game is started, Plug in the RJ cord to the base.
wait about 30 seconds, then the Pedals become functional.

I had this issue too when i first got my wheels (using v1 pedals) - it was really annoying.
i updated the firmware on the wheel and noticed a setting on the Fanatec control panel (i can't remember the exact name, sorry) which i clicked and ever since the pedals have worked without messing with the plug every single time.

sorry i can't remember the exact setting, but if you connect your wheel to your PC and run the Fanatec app, i'm sure you'll find it.

jasje
09-10-2017, 11:01
I'm also very disappointed with the inconsistency of the CSL Elite in this game. Didn't SMS test the game on this wheel? It's supposed to be (one of) the best wheel one can buy on PS4 at the moment. I think it's a lot worse than on PC1.

Pappa_Stig
10-10-2017, 03:37
Just tried PC2 with my new CSL Elite PS4 edition for the first time. Was expecting to be wowed by the FFB, but it's completely missing. Project CARS 1 used to do this, and turning the wheel off and on again fixed it, but not in PC2. I switched the wheel off and back on, and the game wouldn't detect it anymore, so I had to restart the game completely. Got back into the game, still no FFB. I've tried multiple settings and changed just about everything in the hopes of bringing the wheel to life, but there's literally no FFB at all, not even rumble.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Edited to apologise. The wheel was actually at fault this time. Worked fine in F1 2017 and AC before I fired up PC2, but after it didn't work in PC2, I tried AC and F1 again and there was no FFB in either of those. Hooked it up to my laptop and did a fresh firmware install and it's fine now. So I'm sorry about that, that was my bad.

Although now that I can feel the FFB, I too am getting the known bug where there's no/very little kerb and surface feel. FFB feels like an old Codemasters game (even F1 2017's FFB is a ton better than Pcars 2 atm because of that bug).

Looking forward to the patch that fixes this. I'll go back to AC for now, but I'm very much looking forward to being able to play this game now.

LaCoone
11-10-2017, 16:15
I have no time to test it, but ist the CSL still from Thrustmaster in the menu?

tms
11-10-2017, 16:56
The name has been corrected, but the ffb hasn't changed from the previous version (at least not noticeable during my short testing).

kretsu
11-10-2017, 18:30
With all my respect still feel nothing while driving in nurburgring karussell

Paul Bee
11-10-2017, 19:35
I've downloaded patch 2 and it has completely transformed my wheel experience, for the better!

Once the patch was installed, the wheel was recognised correctly. Jumped in to a test (Olton Park in the Ford Falcon V8) and felt completely deflated - no difference at all.

I recalibrated my wheel and pedals and tried again - no difference. Still lacking meaningful tyre force feel, track surface feel was still 'muted' to my taste etc.

I then switch from my original 'Raw' setting to 'Immersive' and it totally transformed the FFB performance, so much so, that I've had to dial all the game settings down and turn the wheel settings down too. I had tried Immersive under the old software and thought it muted things more than Raw.

Here's my new settings - very early days and there's still some minor tweaking to do but my experience of the update (for my feedback preference) is night and day difference.

Game
Immersive
70
50
50
40
0.30

Wheel
FFB 70
DRL 2
FOR 100
SPR 100
DAM 100
FEI 0

YMMV

unrealtairo
11-10-2017, 19:49
This is the ps4 thread.
There is no patch for ps4 yet, just checked again.....

Paul Bee
11-10-2017, 20:29
This is the ps4 thread.
There is no patch for ps4 yet, just checked again.....

I know its the PS4 thread. That's what I run!
The patch went live today for PS4 and has a wide range of fixes including Keyboard support, much faster menu loads, fbb tweaks, car settings etc etc.

You don't indicate where you're based. The patch is live in the UK.

turboameise
11-10-2017, 20:30
This is the ps4 thread.
There is no patch for ps4 yet, just checked again.....

There is a patch. But not all over the world. As far as I understand North America region does not have it. (Sony did not roll it out there yet)
Or you might want to be sure that there is at least 50GB disk space on your ps4 available (that’s Sony’s recomandation for getting updates. Patch itself is only 6GB)

The_Flurk
11-10-2017, 22:21
Still no FX in the FFB and oversaturated.
I updated my firmware before playing, and that puts the presets back to default so I can't tell if there's really a big difference.
Doesn't feel like it to me. Some tweaks at best.

Cornworld
11-10-2017, 22:37
Still no FX in the FFB and oversaturated.
I updated my firmware before playing, and that puts the presets back to default so I can't tell if there's really a big difference.
Doesn't feel like it to me. Some tweaks at best.


Same here unfortunately. Lots off good fixes but ffb for this wheel wasn’t one off them. Will try the settings mentioned in a previous post and hope for the better.

unrealtairo
11-10-2017, 23:52
Cant play yet, does the game actually detect the wheel is an elite now?
Or is it still saying its a “Thrustmaster Fanatec csre” lol

Dev Nibor
12-10-2017, 07:23
Cant play yet, does the game actually detect the wheel is an elite now?
Or is it still saying its a “Thrustmaster Fanatec csre” lol

No, the wheel is properly detected now.

Panicsumo
12-10-2017, 07:45
the fanatec v3 pedal on the brake is still vibrating only with the gas pedal

Panicsumo
12-10-2017, 07:58
My setup gt3 ferrari and nsx
Wheels
Sen 90
Ff 100
Sho 100
Abs 40
Dri 0
For 100
Spr 0
Dpr 0
Brf 30
Fei ???? since this menu item has not been updated for me

Game
Raw
100
65
52
65
0.00

Steering deadzone 0
Speed sensitivity 20

Paul Bee
12-10-2017, 16:38
My setup gt3 ferrari and nsx

Think I prefer your settings, but it's just a bit too 'heavy' for me.

Panicsumo
12-10-2017, 17:48
I know. still need to be improved to make it a bit more enjoyable

The_Flurk
13-10-2017, 07:23
Some more information:
Yesterday I was playing with the different flavours and found out FX does work, but only for track surfaces, not kerbs or off road stuff (GT racing, haven't tested rally).
I put it back to Raw and found out it did the same there. Only track surfaces and bumps. Because of this, I put it waaaay lower (normally 70-90, now 10-20) and I can feel a lot more detail in the tyre slip. I can finally feel the backend breaking out on time. The only thing missing, apart from kerbs, is understeer. Don't really feel how much I can steer into a corner, the wheel doesn't react at all to understeer. Almost there though.

Tip for all CSLE users: Try out the different flavours to understand Volume, Tone and FX better. Informative feels a bit weird, but Immersive is nice. I still like Raw better though.

I'm running the latest CSL Elite firmware and almost everything is at default on the wheel's settings (FFB at 75 and some tweaks that don't have much to do with the pcars2 FFB, i.e. the BRF setting).
My Raw settings are 100/55/50/20. It satisfying to see that the setup is virtually default and it feels ok-ish. It's incredible how smooth this wheel is. I mean, it's still not giving us the details, but I can now really feel that this game's FFB is pretty unique in simracing.

Panicsumo
13-10-2017, 07:34
[QUOTE=Paul Bee;1393468]Think I prefer your settings, but it's just a bit too 'heavy'
New setup
Game
Informative
Gain 90
the other settings are left as I wrote it before

Dark_Zilll
13-10-2017, 07:58
Hey guys does it works now ?
Or still problem switch ffb?
Thanks

The_Flurk
14-10-2017, 09:05
Hey guys does it works now ?
Or still problem switch ffb?
Thanks

What I assume right now, and I'm far from sure because I haven't seen the source code, is that there's only 2 types of forces really working.
The rumble strips aren't at all and I never feel understeer. The "best" settings vary a lot from car to car and even after 3 weeks of tweaking I haven't found any consistent setting.
With soft lock enabled I sometimes get massive forces, when I counter them, it feels like my CSL is dislocating. I'm really not exaggerating. The forces that work are sometime massively overpowered.
Saturation is waaaay too high. Look at the FFB curve ingame. It's way too smooth.

The_Flurk
14-10-2017, 10:49
does anyone have clue how to fix this?
it keeps going if i keep my speed and don't slow down.
everything on the wheel itself is default except for FFB, tuned it down to 50.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j581nxURv0Y

Madwak55
15-10-2017, 06:47
That's odd because my ffb doesn't start until I cross the pit exit? I don't even get the menu spring whilst in the pits even though it's still turned on, I used to but not anymore. Can't tell from the video if you started the oscillation or whether it started itself?
What numbers does your wheel show on booting it up - mine shows 314 then 18.

flatspunout
15-10-2017, 10:22
Downloaded the game last night and can confirm no kerb/rumble/track texture/offtrack effects with CSL E. I took several GT3 cars and the Indycar to Road America. Most are unaware that the "rumble" in rumble strips is actually manufactured in Wisconsin and shipped worldwide. It was smooth as a baby's butt, I mean nary a tickle of rumble. Using Raw with default settings.

Weight transfer, understeer, oversteer, and aero loading honestly felt pretty good out of the box, but I did use some FEI and DRI to dampen the wheel to my tastes. The lack of rumble effects didn't affect my lap times I don't think, there was still enough information to communicate what the car was doing.

Edit: Also noticed I can't map the joystick click to a function like I can in PCars 1.

Madwak55
15-10-2017, 10:26
I used to use raw before the update but since the update I've found immersive gives much better feedback. There is still no rumble when running on the saw tooth kerbs but there ARE some of track effects?

jaynnc
15-10-2017, 22:49
does anyone have clue how to fix this?
it keeps going if i keep my speed and don't slow down.
everything on the wheel itself is default except for FFB, tuned it down to 50.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j581nxURv0Y


I just noticed this also today...I nearly panicked cause I thought my wheelbase was broken/messed up....This is definitely something new and I couldnt figure it out or what is going on

wyldanimal
16-10-2017, 02:08
does anyone have clue how to fix this?
it keeps going if i keep my speed and don't slow down.
everything on the wheel itself is default except for FFB, tuned it down to 50.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j581nxURv0Y


I just noticed this also today...I nearly panicked cause I thought my wheelbase was broken/messed up....This is definitely something new and I couldnt figure it out or what is going on

1st off, Never take your hands off the Wheel.
You gave the Wheel a little push, then the FFB takes over and sends the Wheel Back. But There is Nothing there to resist the Force, so it over shoots, and then Repeats.
There must be somehting to Dampening the Force, and that Normally is your Grip / hands on the Wheel.

You can create some Artificial Dampening to lessen the effect.

Fanatec Setting DRI = -5 = Maximum dampening to prevent Oscilations

In game options Controller Configuration Speed Sensitivity = 20 to 50 this will also help to reduce Oscillation.

The_Flurk
16-10-2017, 07:53
1st off, Never take your hands off the Wheel.
You gave the Wheel a little push, then the FFB takes over and sends the Wheel Back. But There is Nothing there to resist the Force, so it over shoots, and then Repeats.
There must be somehting to Dampening the Force, and that Normally is your Grip / hands on the Wheel.

You can create some Artificial Dampening to lessen the effect.

Fanatec Setting DRI = -5 = Maximum dampening to prevent Oscilations

In game options Controller Configuration Speed Sensitivity = 20 to 50 this will also help to reduce Oscillation.

Thing is, the forces that initialize this oscillation are that strong sometimes, it just feels very "wrong"... I just wanted to show it for the purpose of the video.
Thanks a lot for the settings tips though. I tried the DRi setting, but I really don't like the general "weight" it adds to the wheel, feel very "artificial" to me.
Will try to make it better with the Speed Sensitivity setting. That sounds like a good idea.
Thanks man.

Sankyo
16-10-2017, 09:08
1st off, Never take your hands off the Wheel.
You gave the Wheel a little push, then the FFB takes over and sends the Wheel Back. But There is Nothing there to resist the Force, so it over shoots, and then Repeats.
There must be somehting to Dampening the Force, and that Normally is your Grip / hands on the Wheel.

You can create some Artificial Dampening to lessen the effect.

Fanatec Setting DRI = -5 = Maximum dampening to prevent Oscilations

In game options Controller Configuration Speed Sensitivity = 20 to 50 this will also help to reduce Oscillation.

To add: this is something that every race sim using FFB has suffered from, or is still suffering from. It's inherent to how FFB (devices) work(s).

That said, a wheel like the CSW v2.5 has to possibility built into the motor firmware to actively control dampening, so that gives developers the tool to prevent this from happening, but only on this wheel of course. So in general you should do as stated above and keep your hands on the wheel, as doing what is shown in the video is going outside normal operation of the game.

Savoy49
16-10-2017, 12:13
Here's what I've found after some testing. As always ... your mileage may vary!

CSL Elite PS4 Wheel, CSL Elite Pedals, PS4 Pro, PC2 Patch 2.0

Wheel Settings:
Sen : 90 (or AUT ... your choice)
FF : 100 - Wheel overall strength relative to input from system
SHO : OFF - No vibration transducer in CSL Elite Wheel Rim
ABS : OFF - No vibration transducer in CSL Elite Pedals
DRI : -002 - Just barely enough to dampen out oscillations
FOR : 100 - *See note below
SPR : 100 - *See note below
DPR : 100 - *See note below
FEI : 000 - Full intensity on commanded effects
BRF : 100 - No Load Cell Upgrade

* Note on FOR/SPR/DPR - These control the strength which which the wheel executes a command from the console to provide a FFB modification: Force (push the wheel), Spring (pull the wheel to center), Damper (slows wheel motion in transition) - setting these to less than 100 takes away from FFB commands that the game is sending to the wheel and modifies the way the wheel executes the signal given to it. Turning these down reduces what the game is trying to have the wheel do.

Game Settings:
FLAVOR : Raw
GAIN : 75 - Overall strength of system output - Your choice here but this seems right to me
VOLUME : 50 - medium "weight"
TONE : 50 - medium "balance"
FX : 100 - Maximum force effects strength - *See Note 2
MENU SPRING : 0.10 - This only effects non-driving behavior of the wheel when navigating menus

* Note 2 - Maximized this to increase the amount of communication from road FFB effects. Since the game seems to be low on FFB detail I maximized this to try to add something on top of the perfectly smooth feel.

With these settings the game gives me the best feel that I have found. I think it still lacks in building load in the wheel during cornering and the resultant drop in load as the front tyres are overloaded (should maximum resistance just before slip)...but that is a problem with how the game is commanding FFB and not how the wheel is relaying FFB commands. Also lacking is FFB from rumble strips, grass, gravel, etc. I think SMS is getting close and I hope they continue to work on their overall FFB style to improve the feel when you are up against the edge of the traction circle.

SA

Panicsumo
16-10-2017, 14:18
Here's what I've found after some testing. As always ... your mileage may vary!

CSL Elite PS4 Wheel, CSL Elite Pedals, PS4 Pro, PC2 Patch 2.0

Wheel Settings:
Sen : 90 (or AUT ... your choice)
FF : 100 - Wheel overall strength relative to input from system
SHO : OFF - No vibration transducer in CSL Elite Wheel Rim
ABS : OFF - No vibration transducer in CSL Elite Pedals
DRI : -002 - Just barely enough to dampen out oscillations
FOR : 100 - *See note below
SPR : 100 - *See note below
DPR : 100 - *See note below
FEI : 000 - Full intensity on commanded effects
BRF : 100 - No Load Cell Upgrade

* Note on FOR/SPR/DPR - These control the strength which which the wheel executes a command from the console to provide a FFB modification: Force (push the wheel), Spring (pull the wheel to center), Damper (slows wheel motion in transition) - setting these to less than 100 takes away from FFB commands that the game is sending to the wheel and modifies the way the wheel executes the signal given to it. Turning these down reduces what the game is trying to have the wheel do.

Game Settings:
FLAVOR : Raw
GAIN : 75 - Overall strength of system output - Your choice here but this seems right to me
VOLUME : 50 - medium "weight"
TONE : 50 - medium "balance"
FX : 100 - Maximum force effects strength - *See Note 2
MENU SPRING : 0.10 - This only effects non-driving behavior of the wheel when navigating menus

* Note 2 - Maximized this to increase the amount of communication from road FFB effects. Since the game seems to be low on FFB detail I maximized this to try to add something on top of the perfectly smooth feel.

With these settings the game gives me the best feel that I have found. I think it still lacks in building load in the wheel during cornering and the resultant drop in load as the front tyres are overloaded (should maximum resistance just before slip)...but that is a problem with how the game is commanding FFB and not how the wheel is relaying FFB commands. Also lacking is FFB from rumble strips, grass, gravel, etc. I think SMS is getting close and I hope they continue to work on their overall FFB style to improve the feel when you are up against the edge of the traction circle.

SA

did not you try it in informative mode?gives more feedback than raw

Savoy49
16-10-2017, 14:44
did not you try it in informative mode?gives more feedback than raw

I did not yet. I have been working in RAW to ensure that I would not be fighting / feeling any adjustments being made by the game to the FFB calculations. I read earlier on that Immersive & Informative both adapt during use...Is that still true after patch 2.0?

I will continue to experiment later & thanks for the input!

SA

Savoy49
16-10-2017, 15:02
does anyone have clue how to fix this?
it keeps going if i keep my speed and don't slow down.
everything on the wheel itself is default except for FFB, tuned it down to 50.


Check the settings I posted. I have little to no oscillation and can take my hands off the wheel on any straight.

SA

wyldanimal
16-10-2017, 16:52
Check the settings I posted. I have little to no oscillation and can take my hands off the wheel on any straight.

SA

I'll also give them a try... thanks.

Rs60
16-10-2017, 20:50
The fanatec wheel settings for FOR, SPR, DPR are for setting the individual force components in relation to each other to be controlled as a group by the main FF settings, so you could boost a weak SPR effect past 100 while keeping the FOR effect constant. 50 FF w 100 FOR = 100 FF w 50 FOR. You can adjust FF by 1 and FOR only by 10 so finer control w the master.

However PCars 2 does not use the SPR and DPR as posted somewhere, you can just turn them off.

Also read somewhere that console users were recommended to use gain at 100. Not sure why, but makes sense to keep gain high and then adjust force on wheel to suit, as to get the full range signal out of the game and then amplify as much as needed.

So I run RAW gain 100, vol 55 (slight clipping) tone 55 (taste) - FX is STILL broken - no diff between 0 and 100 that I can feel pre & post 2.0 patch.

Wheel: SEN auto (which works fine for me) FF 55-65 depending on car, FOR 100, SPR & DPR off. I use the wheel FF tuning instead of giving up 2 buttons to map volume +/- for tweaking

cybe
17-10-2017, 09:00
I am very frustrated. in PCars 1 on PS4 and all other Sims on PC the Fanatec CSL ELITE PS4 Racing Wheel is working fine. But in PCars 2 on PS 4 it is absolutely no fun, i would say undriveable at the moment for me. I tried everything and don't get the right settings and feeling with this wheel. PCars 2 is unplayable/no fun on PS4 with this wheel. PCars1 in Compatibility Mode on PS4 was even better and light years ahead.

And even after patch 2.0 we can not assign all buttons and sticks on the wheel? Come on - it's a shame. i paid 99 Euros and pre ordered blind, because project cars 1 on ps4 was a lot of fun and one of the best felt driving on a console with the csl elite ps4 racing wheel i had so far.

i bought a ps4 and the fanatec equipment only for pcars2 and gt sport. what an amount of wasted money i invested for nothing at the moment. GT Sport even did not support the fanatec equipment in the demo and it seems like in pcars2 there was not enough testing and work put into this.

Oh and i also bought the fanatec csp v3. there is no feedback if i loose traction in the throttle pedal like it was in pcars1. and i don't get the break pedal to give a good feedback too. So nothing works at the moment and it's not enjoyable.

So 529 Euros for CSL Elite Racing Wheel, 359 Euros for the CSP V3, 200 Euros for a PS4, 99 Euros for PCars2 Digital preorder = 1100 Euro for Equipment and a released Game that does not support the officialy licensed Equiptment in a way that playing the Game is fun and enjoyable?

Please get things done right for us customers.

tms
17-10-2017, 10:19
I am very frustrated. in PCars 1 on PS4 and all other Sims on PC the Fanatec CSL ELITE PS4 Racing Wheel is working fine. But in PCars 2 on PS 4 it is absolutely no fun, i would say undriveable at the moment for me. I tried everything and don't get the right settings and feeling with this wheel. PCars 2 is unplayable/no fun on PS4 with this wheel. PCars1 in Compatibility Mode on PS4 was even better and light years ahead.

And even after patch 2.0 we can not assign all buttons and sticks on the wheel? Come on - it's a shame. i paid 99 Euros and pre ordered blind, because project cars 1 on ps4 was a lot of fun and one of the best felt driving on a console with the csl elite ps4 racing wheel i had so far.

i bought a ps4 and the fanatec equipment only for pcars2 and gt sport. what an amount of wasted money i invested for nothing at the moment. GT Sport even did not support the fanatec equipment in the demo and it seems like in pcars2 there was not enough testing and work put into this.

Oh and i also bought the fanatec csp v3. there is no feedback if i loose traction in the throttle pedal like it was in pcars1. and i don't get the break pedal to give a good feedback too. So nothing works at the moment and it's not enjoyable.

So 529 Euros for CSL Elite Racing Wheel, 359 Euros for the CSP V3, 200 Euros for a PS4, 99 Euros for PCars2 Digital preorder = 1100 Euro for Equipment and a released Game that does not support the officialy licensed Equiptment in a way that playing the Game is fun and enjoyable?

Please get things done right for us customers.

I'm also waiting for a patch or firmware update for the wheel before I continue playing the game. It's playable with some of the configurations posted here but still doesn't feel right and I'm tired of trying out different configurations.

I have also ordered a GIMX adapter mainly for GT:S but I'm also interested if there's a difference in PC2 if the wheel is registered as a G27. The adapter should arrive today or tomorrow and I'll try to post my feedback once everything is running.

The_Flurk
17-10-2017, 11:57
At this time, we are still missing some specific forces.
I find that leaving everything on default, except DRi<0 on the wheel, is ok-ish. After that, tweak the rest to your personal preferences, but I would keep DRi negative. I use -2.
The DRi setting really is key since v2.0. Or at least, to me it is.
This was tested with the Porsche 911 GT3 R.

Madwak55
17-10-2017, 17:01
At this time, we are still missing some specific forces.
I find that leaving everything on default, except DRi<0 on the wheel, is ok-ish. After that, tweak the rest to your personal preferences, but I would keep DRi negative. I use -2.
The DRi setting really is key since v2.0. Or at least, to me it is.
This was tested with the Porsche 911 GT3 R.
What numbers does your wheel show when it boots up? The ffb on mine is a vast improvement since 2.0 and updating the wheel firmware.

Savoy49
17-10-2017, 17:21
There are new Driver and Firmware out for the Fanatec CSL Elite PS4 as of late this morning Oct 17, 2017.

Driver Version 293
Firmware 335/018

I think these are more related to things to get the wheel working with GTS...but they have updated something in it since several other titles now work properly under the Purple "Compatibility Mode"

I'll be updating in 4 hours when I also install my CSL Elite Load Cell Pedal upgrade. :)

SA

The_Flurk
17-10-2017, 18:29
Hi everyone,

Fanatec has released a new firmware (v335) that comes with driver (v293), as Savoy49 said.

Thank you user ShadowBlue from GT Planet for sharing the links.
64bit: https://www.fanatec.com/download/Fanatec_64_driver_293.msi
32bit: https://www.fanatec.com/download/Fanatec_32_driver_293.msi

You can now play pcars2 in compatibility mode (purple/pink LED mode) and it will be recognized as a G29.
Need to confirm, but I assume everything now works, but as a "G29". FX (kerbs, grass) work. Overall everything is better.
I'm fine with this. No more waiting for the game to be playable.
Finally I can start having fun in career mode. :D

Savoy49
17-10-2017, 18:53
Hi everyone,

Fanatec has released a new firmware (v335) that comes with driver (v293), as Savoy49 said.



You can now play pcars2 in compatibility mode (purple/pink LED mode) and it will be recognized as a G29.
Need to confirm, but I assume everything now works, but as a "G29". FX (kerbs, grass) work. Overall everything is better.
I'm fine with this. No more waiting for the game to be playable.
Finally I can start having fun in career mode. :D

Any difference in front end feel at the limit in the new purple mode? or does it feel the same?

SA

Dev Nibor
17-10-2017, 18:55
I just updated my firmware and took a Ferrari GT3 for a spin on the Red Bull ring.
Can definitely feel a difference when I use compatibility mode, there's a lot more going on with the wheel, a lot more vibration. (maybe a bit too much)
And yes, curbs can finally be felt when driven upon.
Some more tweaking will be needed because I feel it's not as smooth as in normal mode.

Using RAW, 70,50,50,50

I expect others to come up with more refined settings :)
Just wanted to give some feedback that FX can definitely be felt now.

flatspunout
18-10-2017, 02:07
Just updated FW and tried purple mode, the wheel oscillates wildly as I'm sitting in the pit box. Or driving slow. Or driving fast. Blue mode feels stronger than previous FW (possibly because of changes to FEI) but still no rumble/texture/off track feel.

I think the most frustrating part is, it took me all of about 15 minutes to get this wheel feeling amazing in pcars 1. Dropped the gain, added a little FEI and negative DRI, and it was good to go. I know how good it can be, just can't get that feeling in pcars 2.

Savoy49
18-10-2017, 02:23
As I posted on the Fanatec forum...I'm frustrated with this whole exercise. Been sim racing for 9 years and never had issues like this before. The FFB in the game is simply NOT CORRECT ... yet. The gameplay with friends in a private lobby is absolutely spectacular but the FFB ... you know, the thing that makes a sim feel alive and worth all the time and practice... just is not right.

I know there is info missing on the CSL E wheel because when you switch the wheel to the new compatibility mode (and the game sees a g29) suddenly the track details come alive and you can see it in the FFB widget! Go over a rumble strip and you see a sawtooth in the FFB widget! But that does not exist in CSL E mode!

Plus, no matter what mode the wheel is put in, the FFB just feels like it's hooked to ten bungee cords. There is no sensation of weight transfer, no lightening at the edge of understeer, not much feel of the back end, almost no front end tug under braking...just 10 bungee cords. SMH at SMS.

But I'm still holding out hopes that they get it squared away. There is SO much promise.

SA

Panicsumo
18-10-2017, 07:28
Does the v3 pedal brake vibration work with the update?

The_Flurk
18-10-2017, 08:59
If I remember correctly they should work in normal PS4 mode (both with ABS enabled and disabled).
In compatibility mode, they only work with ABS enabled (like in pcars1).

I'm not 100% sure about the PS4 mode, but I tested it yesterday with the compatibility mode.

BrightDark
18-10-2017, 09:22
There are new Driver and Firmware out for the Fanatec CSL Elite PS4 as of late this morning Oct 17, 2017.

Driver Version 293
Firmware 335/018

I think these are more related to things to get the wheel working with GTS...but they have updated something in it since several other titles now work properly under the Purple "Compatibility Mode"

I'll be updating in 4 hours when I also install my CSL Elite Load Cell Pedal upgrade. :)

SA


Hi everyone,

Fanatec has released a new firmware (v335) that comes with driver (v293), as Savoy49 said.

Thank you user ShadowBlue from GT Planet for sharing the links.
64bit: https://www.fanatec.com/download/Fanatec_64_driver_293.msi
32bit: https://www.fanatec.com/download/Fanatec_32_driver_293.msi

You can now play pcars2 in compatibility mode (purple/pink LED mode) and it will be recognized as a G29.
Need to confirm, but I assume everything now works, but as a "G29". FX (kerbs, grass) work. Overall everything is better.
I'm fine with this. No more waiting for the game to be playable.
Finally I can start having fun in career mode. :D


As I posted on the Fanatec forum...I'm frustrated with this whole exercise. Been sim racing for 9 years and never had issues like this before. The FFB in the game is simply NOT CORRECT ... yet. The gameplay with friends in a private lobby is absolutely spectacular but the FFB ... you know, the thing that makes a sim feel alive and worth all the time and practice... just is not right.

I know there is info missing on the CSL E wheel because when you switch the wheel to the new compatibility mode (and the game sees a g29) suddenly the track details come alive and you can see it in the FFB widget! Go over a rumble strip and you see a sawtooth in the FFB widget! But that does not exist in CSL E mode!

Plus, no matter what mode the wheel is put in, the FFB just feels like it's hooked to ten bungee cords. There is no sensation of weight transfer, no lightening at the edge of understeer, not much feel of the back end, almost no front end tug under braking...just 10 bungee cords. SMH at SMS.

But I'm still holding out hopes that they get it squared away. There is SO much promise.

SA

True. There is SO much promise! I'll dig out some more patience.

The_Flurk
18-10-2017, 13:55
I already dug out 5 foxholes for me to wait in.
Time for some offense, and the compatibility mode is acceptable (thanks to Fanatec).
But it's still bringing a pistol to an artillery fight. I really hope the CSL Elite FFB is fixed in the next patch.
I want to enjoy this baby with my 50mm cannon (PS4 mode), not a .45 pistol (compatibility mode)...

Sum Dixon-Ear
18-10-2017, 14:02
@ Flurk - which rim are you using?

Mascot
18-10-2017, 14:11
@ Flurk - which rim are you using?

Are you suggesting that swapping rims might cause issues with the CSLE?
:P

Sum Dixon-Ear
18-10-2017, 14:13
Are you suggesting that swapping rims might cause issues with the CSLE?
:P

I might be... lol.

V3n0m
18-10-2017, 14:52
@ Panicsumo

it seems that some work and some not :( my V3 isnt working.

The_Flurk
18-10-2017, 15:36
@ Flurk - which rim are you using?

The standard CSL Elite rim and the Formula Carbon.

BrightDark
18-10-2017, 17:29
I already dug out 5 foxholes for me to wait in.
Time for some offense, and the compatibility mode is acceptable (thanks to Fanatec).
But it's still bringing a pistol to an artillery fight. I really hope the CSL Elite FFB is fixed in the next patch.
I want to enjoy this baby with my 50mm cannon (PS4 mode), not a .45 pistol (compatibility mode)...

Exceptionally well said :cool:

Panicsumo
19-10-2017, 18:44
did someone find the perfect setting since updating the csl?

Savoy49
19-10-2017, 22:54
did someone find the perfect setting since updating the csl?

Between the issues with the game and the issues with the wheelbase there are no perfect settings.

Panicsumo
20-10-2017, 22:26
If I switch to purple LED on PS4, the government does not work.

flatspunout
21-10-2017, 23:16
TL;DR After spending more time with the wheel and game, I have to agree with many here that the experience has been underwhelming and sometimes extremely frustrating. I don't know whether the issue is with the wheel, the firmware, the game, or a combination of those things. I just want to race.

Note: my wheel is the North America version, and shipped with firmware that included FEI
When I initially installed the wheel I did not update the FW and used it with pcars1 in purple CSW V2 mode with the "Classic" FFB profile. The only changes I made were to lower the gain to .40 and use some FEI and negative DRI for dampening. The detail and feedback were an order of magnitude above my previous wheel, a CSR standard. Brake rumble on my CSP V1's worked as expected (using the on-wheel ABS function), as it did on my CSR.

I purchased pcars2 after the first patch. Still using the FW the wheel shipped with and Raw 100/50/50/50, I immediately noticed the lack of kerb/texture/off-track/etc FFB effects. Everything else seemed ok initially, but the more I drove the more I noticed inconsistencies in FFB. Sometimes it felt ok, sometimes it felt sluggish and saturated, sometimes it felt like the only effect was a super heavy centering spring. There was no brake rumble, either from the game or the on-wheel ABS setting. I also noticed that if I calibrate the wheel on Auto sensitivity, the game recognizes it as a 900* wheel even though the CSL E is a 1080* wheel. If I set sensitivity to 1080 it will calibrate correctly at 1080*, but if I then set it back to Auto it will continue to calibrate at 1080, instead of the 900 that it originally calibrated at on Auto. Clear as mud right?

I was reluctant to update to the new GTS friendly 335 FW after learning that the purple CSW V2 mode had been replaced with a G29 mode. It was feeling good in pcars1 and I didn't want to ruin that, plus I have no interest in GTS anyway. Then I find out that CSW V2 mode still exists with the new firmware in yellow mode, and purple G29 mode is working in pcars2 WITH kerb and rumble effects. So I updated to 335 and tried it with pcars 1 in yellow CSW V2 mode with the same settings I had been using previously and it felt terrible. Under heavy cornering loads the wheel actually went light and felt like it was being accelerated until I hit understeer, then it would go heavy again. Brake rumble worked as expected (with on-wheel ABS setting). Next I tried pcars2 in purple G29 mode, and before I even left the pit box, the wheel was swinging wildly back and forth without me even touching it. Finally, I tried pcars2 in blue PS4 mode with the same results as before: inconsistent FFB, no kerbs/texture/off-track, and no brake rumble from the game or on-wheel ABS setting.

So back to the old FW I go, only it's not the same as what was shipped with the wheel! Prior to updating, the wheel showed FW 315. After updating to 335 and then going back to what is available on the Fanatec site, it is showing 314. Purple CSW V2 mode still feels the same as it did in yellow mode on pcars1, bad. Blue PS4 mode on pcars2 still has no kerb or texture effects, brake rumble worked for one race and then stopped, FFB is still inconsistent ranging from decent to thick and saturated to heavy centering spring, and when I get the heavy spring effect the wheelbase fan is running like a jet engine after about three laps. Also the menu spring strength setting does nothing, whether it is on minimum or maximum it is always there and very strong. I have to actually turn the FFB strength setting on the wheel to 0 just to calibrate it, which doesn't make any sense as there shouldn't be any FFB effects at all going to the wheel in the menus or calibration screen.

Having said all that, the wheelbase and rim are really nice (except maybe the tiny squishy too-close-together buttons) and looks totally tits on my rig. :D

DervPM
22-10-2017, 10:38
Very eloquently put flatspunout, my experiences are exactly the same.. Although PC2 seems to have all the features to be the best simcade on console, the driveability is crap compared to AC, D4 en GT Sport.. Sincerley hope that they/PC2 prove me wrong.. Till that happens I strongly advise you to buy GT Sport, more arcade than sim, but with the CSL much more fun..

Madwak55
22-10-2017, 12:23
Very eloquently put flatspunout, my experiences are exactly the same.. Although PC2 seems to have all the features to be the best simcade on console, the driveability is crap compared to AC, D4 en GT Sport.. Sincerley hope that they/PC2 prove me wrong.. Till that happens I strongly advise you to buy GT Sport, more arcade than sim, but with the CSL much more fun..

What kind of ffb are you looking for exactly?

DervPM
22-10-2017, 15:15
What kind of ffb are you looking for exactly?

Before the PS4 I raced Iracing and RaceRoom with the CSR on the PC, it’s the predictability that I miss.. To feel the onder/oversteer, brakelock etc etc the moment it happens so you can react and correct the car in time.. PC1, AC, D4 and GTS all have that to un extant, the subtle feeling between being in or out of controle..

poumpoum
23-10-2017, 16:04
Do you know if the PC users have the same FFB problems with their CSL Elite PS4 on PC ?

DervPM
24-10-2017, 08:05
Do you know if the PC users have the same FFB problems with their CSL Elite PS4 on PC ?

Haven't tried it yet on the PC

Savoy49
27-10-2017, 21:58
Posted this on the Fanatec forum so i thought i'd share here too.

I've found the following is the best for my taste of the FFB system in PC2 for PS4 using the Fanatec CSL Elite PS4

Game:
Raw
Gain - 85
Volume - 60
Tone - 40
FX - 40

Wheel:
Firmware : 297 (no FEI / no G29 emulation)
Mode : Blue
Sen : 090
FF : 100
Sho : off
ABS : off
Dri : -03
For : 080 (helps take out a bit of the springy feel and leave some of the details)
Spr : 100 (sometimes I use 120)
Dpr : 100 (sometimes I use 120)
Brf : 040 (i like a lighter brake pedal on my load cell)

CSL Elite Load cell setup:
custom inverted mount
3 x 65 elastomer
2 x 85 elastomer
no foam
This gives me a more immediate response without the super soft dead zone that the foam gives.

All that gives me the best feel I can find in PC2. There is little to no oscillation in the wheel. Everything is smooth and well damped...but the PC2 FFB style is still there - wheel weight increases too quickly with steering angle and little to no road feel. Very harsh shock effects but nearly no kerb or road texture.

SA

Dev Nibor
28-10-2017, 11:25
Regarding your loadcell setup, I thought we weren't supposed to mix the elastomers?

DervPM
28-10-2017, 14:51
I've tried your settings Scott with FW 335, still mis some detail, but for me the best so far.. Tnx

The_Flurk
30-10-2017, 07:58
Is anyone actually enjoying the game with this steering wheel? :P
It's still frustrating from time to time, even in the G29 compatibility mode... such a shame.
I think I gave up on pcars2. GT Sport is pretty ok and very fun online. Best fun on PS4 with this steering wheel IMO.

Dev Nibor
30-10-2017, 10:19
I play with wheel and I still enjoy the game a lot, more than GT Sports.
The pleasure I have with this game overshadows the bugs.

I just hope they will improve on FFB with regards to the CSL Elite.

The_Flurk
30-10-2017, 10:34
I play with wheel and I still enjoy the game a lot, more than GT Sports.
The pleasure I have with this game overshadows the bugs.

I just hope they will improve on FFB with regards to the CSL Elite.

It's a better game than GT Sport in many regards, but the online multiplayer is so good in GTS... It has its flaws in pcars2, unfortunately :(

wyldanimal
03-11-2017, 15:37
CSL Elite is very non-consistent for me.
The Best results have been running it through the Drive Hub.

I unfortunately have gave up trying to get a good constant FFB and on-line results from PC2.
For now, I've put PC2 on the back burner, until the Next Patch or Patches have been released.

some of this goes a bit off topic.

GT-Sport is fulfilling my On-line racing requirements, with all my racing buddies, who have also shelved PC2 for the time being.
PC2 has the Potential to be really great, and I know it will get there. Until then, I'll be content driving / racing using another title.
( in GT Sport, if you use a lesser class of tire, it give a really good experience. All too Often, I see every one using Racing soft or Super softs.
you might as well be driving a train on rails. Too Much grip really ruins the experience.
Try sport hards or even comfort mediums, just enough grip to pull 1G, and loose enough to get sideways. )

I'm more interested in the On-line aspects of the game.
not so much interested in Campaign mode or offline.

Lobby stability, consistency just isn't where it needs to be.
and the same with FFB on the CSL Elite.

I hope it doesn't take too long for all this to be corrected.
I really want to enjoy PC2 as much as I have enjoyed PC1.

I know this goes way off topic....
But Please More #13 Liveries please. One #13 for every car would be nice....

Stiggosaurus
04-11-2017, 12:23
My CSL Elite PS4 with CSL Elite Pedals should be delivered in just a few hours. Someone over at GTPlanet clued me into the fact that there was some pretty major issues with this wheel and PCars2, so figured I'd check in and see how to make the best of the situation. I've spent the last 30 minutes or so reading through this entire thread, so a few questions:



Do these same problems plague the PC version as well? I've got a PC that runs this game extremely well (and own PCARS2 on both platforms), but I generally tend to prefer console over PC just for simplicity's sake. I'm willing to make an exception if it's going to result in a much better experience though.
Has there been any official comment from WMD about the timing on a fix? I saw Thomas from Fanatec's blog post here (https://www.fanatec.com/forum/discussion/561/finding-the-right-force-feedback-settings-on-ps4) indicating that they are aware and are working on it. Sure would be nice to have a rough idea on timing though to know whether or not I should even bother futzing with settings or just sit tight and wait.
I'm guessing this is largely personal preference, but is there a general consensus on how to get the best experience now, i.e. Blue mode or Comptability mode? I've seen suggested settings for both posted, so I guess I should just try both ways.
Any benefit to checking out the original PCARS perhaps in the meantime? Could someone point me towards some settings that are known to work well with the original PCARS with this wheel?

docyoda
04-11-2017, 12:35
If I switch to purple LED on PS4, the government does not work.

Press mode button to compatibility mode (purple led), then press PS button and finally start the game.

It works but will erase all configurations you saved in-game FFB parameters.

You should find a complete different FFB setting 'cause it works in G29-emulation mode and I don't like it.

On Fanatec blog you can find , Fanatec CEO explanation… it's an issue on PJC2 and the devs know it and are working on it.

we definitely should (and could) use Fanatec CSL Elite in PS4 mode… the wheel base has been realized for it.

Stiggosaurus
07-11-2017, 12:49
I think it was asked a few times in this thread how FFB was when using this wheel on PC. Got a chance to try it last night, and let me tell you, if it works the same way on PS4 once patched that it does on PC now we are in for a real treat. I used the game and wheel settings suggested in this thread (http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?51955-FFB-settings-for-Fanatec-Wheels) and they feel great. Those that I usually race are on PS4, so I'm really hoping to see this fixed soon.

Savoy49
08-11-2017, 12:19
An update on how my settings have evolved.

I read a few threads on the FFB system for PC2 and made some adjustments. One of the threads had a graph explaining the volume setting which showed lower volume creating a FFB output that was lower on initial detail output despite having the same maximum total output. Whereas high volume created a response that is more immediate off center but the same maximum output. I combined that with what i read about tone settings and how Fy is not necessarily a real thing (just something that has to be simulated) and that it might be a cause for some of the weird feeling. I was still fighting the feel of my previous setup and it felt too light and there wasn't quite enough front end feel just off center.

Another un-discussed setting is damper saturation. I think this belongs on the page with Gain/Vol/Tone/FX but it is on the page with dead zones instead. I decided to run this at 100 percent to to dampen out the springy feeling of the whole system.

Lastly I read yet another thread that talked about steering ratio. Do your head, eyes, and hands almost feel disconnected? try changing the steering ratio! the OP that i read suggested 10.0:1 and that works really well for me. It seems to have synched up what i think i should be getting in vehicle response when compared to hand input.

My tuning process then became to max out the Volume & Damper Saturation, dial down the Tone a bit to get the feel i wanted, then adjust FX to suit (i know this is only road bumps), and finally set the Gain to determine overall output. Results:

Game:
Raw
Gain - 80
Volume - 100
Tone - 30
FX - 40
Damper Saturation - 100

Wheel:
Firmware : 297 (no FEI / no G29 emulation)
Mode : Blue
Sen : 090
FF : 100
Sho : off
ABS : off
Dri : -03
For : 100
Spr : 100
Dpr : 100
Brf : 050

Inverted CSL Elite LC pedals
Elastomers - 3 x 65, 1 x 85, 1 x 95 (no foam)

I haven't felt the need to change this in over almost 2 weeks...which is nice. I think there's lots of front end communication now and you can really feel the front end load with force that represents the traction circle. Too fast through a corner or too much brake on entry/too much brake bias and you will definitely feel the FFB lighten up to tell you you've overloaded the fronts. The only issue I still have is the total lack of texture. There are times when the car is tracking perfectly out of a corner and the wheel goes eerily silent and light. This isn't necessarily wrong, but the lack of texture (vibration, road noise, etc) makes it just seem weird. Histogram stays firmly in the 40-80% range with no clipping.

I'm really hoping for improved texture for our CSL E on the next patch!

as always...Your Mileage May Vary!

SA

Stiggosaurus
08-11-2017, 13:50
An update on how my settings have evolved.

I read a few threads on the FFB system for PC2 and made some adjustments. One of the threads had a graph explaining the volume setting which showed lower volume creating a FFB output that was lower on initial detail output despite having the same maximum total output. Whereas high volume created a response that is more immediate off center but the same maximum output. I combined that with what i read about tone settings and how Fy is not necessarily a real thing (just something that has to be simulated) and that it might be a cause for some of the weird feeling. I was still fighting the feel of my previous setup and it felt too light and there wasn't quite enough front end feel just off center.

Another un-discussed setting is damper saturation. I think this belongs on the page with Gain/Vol/Tone/FX but it is on the page with dead zones instead. I decided to run this at 100 percent to to dampen out the springy feeling of the whole system.

Lastly I read yet another thread that talked about steering ratio. Do your head, eyes, and hands almost feel disconnected? try changing the steering ratio! the OP that i read suggested 10.0:1 and that works really well for me. It seems to have synched up what i think i should be getting in vehicle response when compared to hand input.

My tuning process then became to max out the Volume & Damper Saturation, dial down the Tone a bit to get the feel i wanted, then adjust FX to suit (i know this is only road bumps), and finally set the Gain to determine overall output. Results:

Game:
Raw
Gain - 80
Volume - 100
Tone - 30
FX - 40
Damper Saturation - 100

Wheel:
Firmware : 297 (no FEI / no G29 emulation)
Mode : Blue
Sen : 090
FF : 100
Sho : off
ABS : off
Dri : -03
For : 100
Spr : 100
Dpr : 100
Brf : 050

Inverted CSL Elite LC pedals
Elastomers - 3 x 65, 1 x 85, 1 x 95 (no foam)

I haven't felt the need to change this in over almost 2 weeks...which is nice. I think there's lots of front end communication now and you can really feel the front end load with force that represents the traction circle. Too fast through a corner or too much brake on entry/too much brake bias and you will definitely feel the FFB lighten up to tell you you've overloaded the fronts. The only issue I still have is the total lack of texture. There are times when the car is tracking perfectly out of a corner and the wheel goes eerily silent and light. This isn't necessarily wrong, but the lack of texture (vibration, road noise, etc) makes it just seem weird. Histogram stays firmly in the 40-80% range with no clipping.

I'm really hoping for improved texture for our CSL E on the next patch!

as always...Your Mileage May Vary!

SA
Really excited to try these tonight, appreciate you putting the time into trying to make the best of things until we get a patch. Quick question: how important is firmware 297 to getting good results with these settings? I'd really like to be on the most recent firmware for the GT Sport support if at all possible.

On a different note, as someone who is relatively inexperienced with all things FFB, I'm genuinely curious about the choice to use -03 for the Dri setting on the wheel. This settings is explained in great detail in this thread (http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?51955-FFB-settings-for-Fanatec-Wheels) from someone who assisted in the development of the game, where he pretty emphatically states that this should always be set to Off. Perhaps this only applies to the PC build?

Savoy49
08-11-2017, 14:37
Really excited to try these tonight, appreciate you putting the time into trying to make the best of things until we get a patch. Quick question: how important is firmware 297 to getting good results with these settings? I'd really like to be on the most recent firmware for the GT Sport support if at all possible.

On a different note, as someone who is relatively inexperienced with all things FFB, I'm genuinely curious about the choice to use -03 for the Dri setting on the wheel. This settings is explained in great detail in this thread (http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?51955-FFB-settings-for-Fanatec-Wheels) from someone who assisted in the development of the game, where he pretty emphatically states that this should always be set to Off. Perhaps this only applies to the PC build?

How important is FW 297? Honestly, I don't know at this point. I have not performed any back to back testing with either of the newer FW releases (314 or 335) vs the 297. I ran both of them when they came out but was not a fan of either, but my whole setup was new too. New wheel, new pedals, new game. I remember the 335 update was terrible and had a lot of oscillation but that was in purple mode (which i fully disagree with running in PC2). Let me know what you think and if its nice i'll test on my end too.

Drift settings: I prefer a nicely damped FFB feel as opposed to a friction free FFB. I find this helps with control in transitions since the quicker you input the more resistance you get back. To me the Dri setting of -03 is a good combination of transition damping and on-center damping. Configured as i listed above there is ZERO oscillation at speed on a straight. The post that you referenced discusses drift as "anti-drag" which is true in positive settings but in negative settings you get the opposite effect drag...or damping as i call it. Lastly, his experience is based on PC use and not PS4 Use with CSL E. There are currently some issues with the FFB profile for our wheel on PS4 (known and admitted by SMS/WMD/Fanatec) and so I may have felt the need to dial that down to -03 to fight something else that is going on with the FFB profile.

DervPM
08-11-2017, 20:43
How important is FW 297? Honestly, I don't know at this point. I have not performed any back to back testing with either of the newer FW releases (314 or 335) vs the 297. I ran both of them when they came out but was not a fan of either, but my whole setup was new too. New wheel, new pedals, new game. I remember the 335 update was terrible and had a lot of oscillation but that was in purple mode (which i fully disagree with running in PC2). Let me know what you think and if its nice i'll test on my end too.

Drift settings: I prefer a nicely damped FFB feel as opposed to a friction free FFB. I find this helps with control in transitions since the quicker you input the more resistance you get back. To me the Dri setting of -03 is a good combination of transition damping and on-center damping. Configured as i listed above there is ZERO oscillation at speed on a straight. The post that you referenced discusses drift as "anti-drag" which is true in positive settings but in negative settings you get the opposite effect drag...or damping as i call it. Lastly, his experience is based on PC use and not PS4 Use with CSL E. There are currently some issues with the FFB profile for our wheel on PS4 (known and admitted by SMS/WMD/Fanatec) and so I may have felt the need to dial that down to -03 to fight something else that is going on with the FFB profile.

On the 314 vs 335 issue, it all depends if you just play PC2 or GTS as well..

wyldanimal
16-11-2017, 19:10
Regarding your loadcell setup, I thought we weren't supposed to mix the elastomers?

No, That is the Whole Idea of 3 types and Different Diameters of Elastomers.
Mix them to your Liking... Cut them up, if needed, Build your perfect brake pedal feeling.
Each one gives a progression to how the Pedal feels.
the Yellow is soft, it gives that Initial 1/8" of soft pedal feel, then, when it is fully compressed, one of the other elastomers take over, and you feel it's resistance, then finally when you've compressed them all far enough, then you just have a solid feel for that last bit of braking force.

The kit contains 5 different ones, Yellow of one size, Cut to fit as needed.
Red in two Different diameters, and Green in two Different Diameters.
Mix them up to create your custom feel.

Savoy49
16-11-2017, 19:43
The kit contains 5 different ones, Yellow of one size, Cut to fit as needed.
Red in two Different diameters, and Green in two Different Diameters.
Mix them up to create your custom feel.

On the CSL ELite LC brake pedal there is a yellow foam and then all the other elastomers are black. They are each marked with their hardness so you can ID them (65, 85, 95). So its a little different than the ClubSport but the same theory applies. I have had zero issues with mixed elastomers.

Dev Nibor
08-12-2017, 06:53
The CSL has clearly improved after the new patch, anyone want to share their game and wheel settings?

The_Flurk
08-12-2017, 09:15
I'm using default RAW 100/50/50/50, I try to keep the steering wheel firmware settings as "default" as possible. What I mean is, I try and influence the FFB signal from the game as little as possible. Only the general strength I put on 50 now.
Working very well, nice different feel from RAW - IMMERSIVE - INFORMATIVE. Still looking for the best option. I think a bit less VOLUME and a bit more TONE seems to be my taste. I have been testing a lot yesterday evening, but the driving is so much easier now because you can feel all the forces' details. Finally I can drive consistent and push the limit. Still, road cars feel way off. I found for drifting/opposite lock, the moment you flick the steering wheel, the backend steps out and the steering wheel doesn't "push" enough into the opposite lock angle as in real life. It actually resists to go into opposite lock from time to time, which isn't realistic at all. But maybe I need a higher TONE setting, idk. Will soon find out. In the end, with patch 3, I think frustration and anger is finally a past subject.

jasje
08-12-2017, 13:59
What drift mode are you setting? I've also returned back to defaults for both the game and steering wheel and liking it so far.

IMMERSIVE is way too strong and too rumbly in my opinion. Raw is great but still feels quite noisy (can be caused by the track surface though)

What do you set for drift mode? -5 or off?

The_Flurk
08-12-2017, 16:56
I set DRi to off, but it feels very loose sometimes. I think maybe -2 might fit me.
Still playing with defaults and feeling different cars, just to learn this new FFB. In general, as soon as I start changing stuff +20 values, it feels unbalanced.
The defaults, to me, currently feel like they are right on a kind of sensitively balanced point, meaning big changes can mess the FFB up. It makes sense to me.

Do the cars that are new in pcars2, in general have much better FFB?
I'm not sure because I don't know by heart which cars are new.

I agree with IMMERSIVE being too wild and strong. It feels like before patch 3 somehow, with the shaking and pulling.

Sometimes I feel like the FFB, when it needs to be strong, it's actually too strong, compared when it's are low. Not proportional(?).
Oh man, I really don't know how to describe it, sorry. I just want to share my findings :)

On the other hand, I just ended a touring car race at Zolder and it was very fun, true racing.
First time I'm able to play with AI at 100 and be consistent at the same time.
Also, I had a battle with the AI, diving me at the hairpin. Felt realistic. Very cool :)

Sum Dixon-Ear
08-12-2017, 17:02
Try running the wheel's FEI setting at '010', feels really nice on Raw FFB.

Jimmy777
09-12-2017, 13:16
Try running the wheel's FEI setting at '010', feels really nice on Raw FFB.

Hello, when i change FEI to 010 then i loose all the road detail and curb feeling. Also this is the advice from Fanatec about FEI: Force Effects Intensity
Always start at 100% and if the effects are too sharp or there is a strong and noisy rattle which you do not like then turn it down to a lower value.

Now i'm very curious about the rest of your settings in the wheel and in the game what makes you so happy about FEI at 010?

Sum Dixon-Ear
09-12-2017, 14:21
Hello, when i change FEI to 010 then i loose all the road detail and curb feeling. Also this is the advice from Fanatec about FEI: Force Effects Intensity
Always start at 100% and if the effects are too sharp or there is a strong and noisy rattle which you do not like then turn it down to a lower value.

Now i'm very curious about the rest of your settings in the wheel and in the game what makes you so happy about FEI at 010?

[Wheel]
Sen - Auto
FF - 100
Sho - 100
ABS - 85
Dri - Off
For - 120
Spr - Off
Dpr - Off
Brf - 100
FEI - 010

[Game]
Raw
Gain - 100
Volume - 65
Tone - 55
FX - 55
Menu Spring - 0.10

Sum Dixon-Ear
09-12-2017, 14:38
OK, this is bizarre... just booted the game and went to my career race at Snetterton 200 in the Ginetta Junior. I had changed nothing, wheel is in PS4 mode.. the spring weight was really heavy and my brake pedal is vibrating in accordance with my wheel's ABS setting. EDIT: Forgot to mention that there was no throttle rumble.

EDIT#2: Restarted game and wheel and everything is working as normal since the patch, great FFB, no brake rumble, working throttle rumble... possible wheel recognition issues here?

Talking of bizarre happenings; last night I started GTS by mistake (I meant to start PC2).. so I quit the game and restarted my console. When it had rebooted pCARS 2 was totally gone... no shortcut, no game, nothing... I had to download the entire thing again.

Is it haunted?

DervPM
09-12-2017, 15:00
[Wheel]
Sen - Auto
FF - 100
Sho - 100
ABS - 85
Dri - Off
For - 120
Spr - Off
Dpr - Off
Brf - 100
FEI - 010

[Game]
Raw
Gain - 100
Volume - 65
Tone - 55
FX - 55
Menu Spring - 0.10

Thanks again Sum, your one of the leaders in the quest for the CSL settings.. One question though, brf 100 ?? Will try it after the football..

Sum Dixon-Ear
09-12-2017, 15:04
Thanks again Sum, your one of the leaders in the quest for the CSL settings.. One question though, brf 100 ?? Will try it after the football..

Brf = Brake Force, it only applies to the new load cells on the V3/V3i pedals, just a firmware setting to adjust resistance as the dial did on the older ClubSports.

DervPM
09-12-2017, 15:11
Brf = Brake Frorce, it only applies to the new load cells on the V3/V3i pedals, just a firmware setting to adjust resistance as the dial did on the older ClubSports.

I know what brf stands for, but with CSL loadcell pedals 50 is the max for me, maybe it’s different with the V3..

Sum Dixon-Ear
09-12-2017, 15:18
I know what brf stands for, but with CSL loadcell pedals 50 is the max for me, maybe it’s different with the V3..

I didn't know that it worked on CSL-LC pedals, you learn something new and all that...

Michel--NL
09-12-2017, 15:43
OK, this is bizarre... just booted the game and went to my career race at Snetterton 200 in the Ginetta Junior. I had changed nothing, wheel is in PS4 mode.. the spring weight was really heavy and my brake pedal is vibrating in accordance with my wheel's ABS setting. EDIT: Forgot to mention that there was no throttle rumble.

EDIT#2: Restarted game and wheel and everything is working as normal since the patch, great FFB, no brake rumble, working throttle rumble... possible wheel recognition issues here?

Had the same thing a few times, and that was before the latest patch.

Sankyo
09-12-2017, 15:52
Talking of bizarre happenings; last night I started GTS by mistake (I meant to start PC2).. so I quit the game and restarted my console. When it had rebooted pCARS 2 was totally gone... no shortcut, no game, nothing... I had to download the entire thing again.

Is it haunted?
Sounds like you need to have a word with Sony...

Sum Dixon-Ear
09-12-2017, 15:53
Sounds like you need to have a word with Sony...

Possibly... or an exorcist.

DervPM
10-12-2017, 11:59
It’s definitely a improvement Sum, al lot more detail and control.. The wheel feels a bit to heavy though, are you using the CSL wheel or the BMW rim?? With for on 100 I’m starting to acutely enjoy It :cool:

Sum Dixon-Ear
10-12-2017, 12:06
I'm currently using the standard CSL rim... depending on the FFB weight of different cars I usually try Force from 100-110-120 to find my preferred feeling.

The_Flurk
10-12-2017, 12:43
Hi guys,
Just wanted to share: my braking is a lot better when I put brF on 80 (CSPv3)
Meanwhile still playing with default ingame RAW settings.
What does FEi actually do? I definitely don't recommend putting it on 0. 10-50 seems to be nice! I put it on 30.
I could even do some drifting in the snow with a 1M Coupe.

Jimmy777
10-12-2017, 12:44
Thank you Sum i also like this setting. :) Only the kerb feeling could be a little stronger for my liking. Maybe a shortcoming from the game?

Sum Dixon-Ear
10-12-2017, 13:02
Hi guys,
Just wanted to share: my braking is a lot better when I put brF on 80 (CSPv3)
Meanwhile still playing with default ingame RAW settings.
What does FEi actually do? I definitely don't recommend putting it on 0. 10-50 seems to be nice! I put it on 30.
I could even do some drifting in the snow with a 1M Coupe.

Brakeforce is hugely personal as it all depends on each individual's choices for mechanical stiffness/throw, damper settings, elastomers and any tuning kit parts used... one man's 80 is another's 10 and so on.

FEI effectively reduces the spikes in strong or harsh FFB effects by reducing the 'attack impact', it reduces any internal noise and softens the forces created by high, jagged kerbs etc. I really like it, feels more realistic than the older firmware versions.

Sum Dixon-Ear
10-12-2017, 13:08
Thank you Sum i also like this setting. :) Only the kerb feeling could be a little stronger for my liking. Maybe a shortcoming from the game?

Kerbs aren't the strongest I've felt in a sim, but you can try to eke a bit more from the FFB by increasing FX... don't go too high though. Check in the FFB app for clipping, I've not gone any higher as I'm pretty happy with balance of effects... for now... lol.

The_Flurk
10-12-2017, 14:07
Brakeforce is hugely personal as it all depends on each individual's choices for mechanical stiffness/throw, damper settings, elastomers and any tuning kit parts used... one man's 80 is another's 10 and so on.

FEI effectively reduces the spikes in strong or harsh FFB effects by reducing the 'attack impact', it reduces any internal noise and softens the forces created by high, jagged kerbs etc. I really like it, feels more realistic than the older firmware versions.

Yeah about the brF, that's correct :)
Thanks for the explanation, Sum!

Laserbeak43
12-12-2017, 13:42
3.0.1 patchnotes:
"Fanatec - improved anti-jolt and high-frequency anti-vibe on the CSWB series."
Still no CSL Elite suppport? Jeez............

Sankyo
12-12-2017, 13:43
3.0.1 patchnotes:
"Fanatec - improved anti-jolt and high-frequency anti-vibe on the CSWB series."
Still no CSL Elite suppport? Jeez............
What do you mean?

Dev Nibor
12-12-2017, 13:47
3.0.1 patchnotes:
"Fanatec - improved anti-jolt and high-frequency anti-vibe on the CSWB series."
Still no CSL Elite suppport? Jeez............

probably a miswording in the patch notes, because the wheel is definitely fixed.

Sum Dixon-Ear
12-12-2017, 14:14
probably a miswording in the patch notes, because the wheel is definitely fixed.

Fixed.... ish.

Laserbeak43
12-12-2017, 14:26
probably a miswording in the patch notes, because the wheel is definitely fixed.
Meaning, it doesn't feel like a flying nimbus in PS4 mode?

Dev Nibor
12-12-2017, 14:43
something like that yea

Sum Dixon-Ear
12-12-2017, 14:57
Meaning, it doesn't feel like a flying nimbus in PS4 mode?

Mine did feel a wee bit like that once... but only after downloading my profile save from the PSN Cloud.

Laserbeak43
12-12-2017, 15:10
Mine did feel a wee bit like that once... but only after downloading my profile save from the PSN Cloud.

Wow... talk about bugs... I can't even think of why that would be so. Good thing you were able to backtrack that issue.


OK, this is bizarre... just booted the game and went to my career race at Snetterton 200 in the Ginetta Junior. I had changed nothing, wheel is in PS4 mode.. the spring weight was really heavy and my brake pedal is vibrating in accordance with my wheel's ABS setting. EDIT: Forgot to mention that there was no throttle rumble.

EDIT#2: Restarted game and wheel and everything is working as normal since the patch, great FFB, no brake rumble, working throttle rumble... possible wheel recognition issues here?

Talking of bizarre happenings; last night I started GTS by mistake (I meant to start PC2).. so I quit the game and restarted my console. When it had rebooted pCARS 2 was totally gone... no shortcut, no game, nothing... I had to download the entire thing again.

Is it haunted?

That's funny...my CSP V3s only vibrate when I press the brakes too... Both the throttle and the brake. Nothing when I press the throttle. I wonder....do i need to reinstall like you did, or run the configuration tool on windows?

-edit-
I don't even have to be playing a game. I just press the brake pedal and it vibrates.

Sum Dixon-Ear
12-12-2017, 15:26
Wow... talk about bugs... I can't even think of why that would be so. Good thing you were able to backtrack that issue.



That's funny...my CSP V3s only vibrate when I press the brakes too... Both the throttle and the brake. Nothing when I press the throttle. I wonder....do i need to reinstall like you did, or run the configuration tool on windows?

-edit-
I don't even have to be playing a game. I just press the brake pedal and it vibrates.

That was just my feeble attempt at a joke... nimbus... cloud...

Is the wheel definitely in PS4 Mode (blue LED) and on the latest firmware (v335) ?

Laserbeak43
12-12-2017, 15:45
That was just my feeble attempt at a joke... nimbus... cloud...

Is the wheel definitely in PS4 Mode (blue LED) and on the latest firmware (v335) ?

OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOH I seeeeeeeeeee. LOL.

I just updated both the pedals and the wheel. Ran the configuration tool on the pedals alone and with the wheel and pedals with the pedals plugged into the base. For the first time, I get rumble on the throttle, but now I get nothing on the brake...

And yes I'm in PS4 mode and using your settings here (http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?51583-Fanatec-CSL-Elite-PS4&p=1443309&viewfull=1#post1443309)

-edit-
Is it normal for my throttle to be at 2000 RPMs when I'm not pressing it?

Sum Dixon-Ear
12-12-2017, 15:54
OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOH I seeeeeeeeeee. LOL.

I just updated both the pedals and the wheel. Ran the configuration tool on the pedals alone and with the wheel and pedals with the pedals plugged into the base. For the first time, I get rumble on the throttle, but now I get nothing on the brake...

And yes I'm in PS4 mode and using your settings here (http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?51583-Fanatec-CSL-Elite-PS4&p=1443309&viewfull=1#post1443309)

-edit-
Is it normal for my throttle to be at 2000 RPMs when I'm not pressing it?

Hahahahaha.

Unfortunately the brake motor doesn't seem to be functioning yet in the game, we get wheel spin through the throttle but no ABS/lock up... hopefully be fixed soon... please!

That just sounds like the idling revs for whatever car you're in, check the telemetry/HUD/Fanatec drivers for any unwanted inputs when the pedals aren't being pressed.

Laserbeak43
12-12-2017, 16:24
Hahahahaha.

Unfortunately the brake motor doesn't seem to be functioning yet in the game, we get wheel spin through the throttle but no ABS/lock up... hopefully be fixed soon... please!

That just sounds like the idling revs for whatever car you're in, check the telemetry/HUD/Fanatec drivers for any unwanted inputs when the pedals aren't being pressed.

Strange. I paused the game and yanked the USB cable out to test it and PCars crashed. Now the throttle rumble doesn't work, and the brake rumbles when 100% pressed. Must have been a bad idea...:stupid:
Aside from that, my brake and throttle inputs look accurate. I just restarted the game, tested the pedal and got the brake problem again, so instead of yanking the cable, I powered the wheel down with the button. Crashed again... Loaded it back up, and now the throttle rumbles when I slip, so I'm good with that. Only problem now is, I need to grab my weight set and do some curls in order to turn the wheel. Feels like a freight truck with no power steering!! :D

Sum Dixon-Ear
12-12-2017, 16:41
There appears to be a bit of a bug sometimes where the wheel isn't properly recognised, the game reports a CSLE in the controller section.. but it behaves like it's in G29 mode... but broken. A console and wheel reboot usually fixes it.

If the FFB is too heavy, turn 'For' down in the wheel's onboard tuning menu, works for me.

Laserbeak43
12-12-2017, 16:47
There appears to be a bit of a bug sometimes where the wheel isn't properly recognised, the game reports a CSLE in the controller section.. but it behaves like it's in G29 mode... but broken. A console and wheel reboot usually fixes it.

If the FFB is too heavy, turn 'For' down in the wheel's onboard tuning menu, works for me.

Your the man! Thanks so much. Now I just have to remember how to drive in this game. Driving on these tracks feel like walking on a tightrope compared to Gran Turismo Sport.

Sum Dixon-Ear
12-12-2017, 16:50
It's certainly a different beast to GTS, have fun mate.

Sum Dixon-Ear
12-12-2017, 22:53
Remco, if you happen to see this post would you be able to solve a wee mystery for me if you don't mind?

When my wheel has calibrated it shows two numbers; the first is the installed firmware version (mine is 335) and then the second (which is 016) - what does the second number indicate? Is it the current motor driver version... or something else entirely?

TIA mate.

Laserbeak43
12-12-2017, 23:54
Remco, if you happen to see this post would you be able to solve a wee mystery for me if you don't mind?

When my wheel has calibrated it shows two numbers; the first is the installed firmware version (mine is 335) and then the second (which is 016) - what does the second number indicate? Is it the current motor driver version... or something else entirely?

TIA mate.

I wonder what that number is too. Mine shows 018.

Sum Dixon-Ear
13-12-2017, 00:25
... Mine shows 018.

Indeed, so does mine.

I'm old, that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it.

Who am I and who said that?

Sankyo
13-12-2017, 08:06
Remco, if you happen to see this post would you be able to solve a wee mystery for me if you don't mind?

When my wheel has calibrated it shows two numbers; the first is the installed firmware version (mine is 335) and then the second (which is 016) - what does the second number indicate? Is it the current motor driver version... or something else entirely?

TIA mate.

The second number is the motor driver firmware version.

Yes, in the CSLE and CSW v2.5 the motor has its own firmware, so its behaviour can be tweaked on hardware level.
So maybe in the future it'll make coffee and vacuum your living room after you're done sim racing, but don't quote me on that.

Sum Dixon-Ear
13-12-2017, 09:50
Thanks Remco, much appreciated.

Sorry, I just had to -

...in the future it'll make coffee and vacuum your living room after you're done sim racing...

Sankyo
13-12-2017, 10:07
Sorry, I just had to -

Well, in that quote, "it" is not specified so it could be anything :p Ass -> covered.

danlar88
14-12-2017, 16:53
Hi guys!

After the new patch 3.0 my steering wheel has been changed, I've read that others have experienced that the steering wheel got heavier, so also mine. But my steering wheel makes more noise after the new patch. When you go on curbs, it sounds bad, even if you drive out into the grass / gravel it rattle a lot. Almost sounds like something is broken.

Before the new patch I used immersive, but now I have changed to Raw as this does not rattle as much ...I really like the immersive setting, but after the 3.0 patch it makes it rattles a lot.

Anyone else who experiences this?

Sum Dixon-Ear
14-12-2017, 17:25
Hi guys!

After the new patch 3.0 my steering wheel has been changed, I've read that others have experienced that the steering wheel got heavier, so also mine. But my steering wheel makes more noise after the new patch. When you go on curbs, it sounds bad, even if you drive out into the grass / gravel it rattle a lot. Almost sounds like something is broken.

Before the new patch I used immersive, but now I have changed to Raw as this does not rattle as much ...I really like the immersive setting, but after the 3.0 patch it makes it rattles a lot.

Anyone else who experiences this?

To eliminate the rattling noise adjust the FEI setting in the wheel's tuning menu, I find that FEI '010' works really well on Raw FFB.

Dark_Zilll
25-12-2017, 22:40
Myself . And even today my CSL elite on game while driving was recognized as something weird name ....
I really like the immersive but I keep on clipping .....

Sum Dixon-Ear
25-12-2017, 23:57
Myself . And even today my CSL elite on game while driving was recognized as something weird name ....
I really like the immersive but I keep on clipping .....

If you mean the text underneath the FFB widget in the telemetry HUD, that is the name of the FFB preset that you are using. The controller screen should display your device properly.

Try Raw, seriously... it is excellent. I can run the wheel with very strong FFB and zero clipping.

Dark_Zilll
26-12-2017, 18:40
Could u give me your setting please :)

Dark_Zilll
26-12-2017, 18:41
Would you provide me your setting please :)

Sum Dixon-Ear
26-12-2017, 19:12
Would you provide me your setting please :)

I'll post them tomorrow when I get the rig back out after Christmas.

Dark_Zilll
26-12-2017, 21:01
Ok perfect I will appreciate that :)

Dark_Zilll
28-12-2017, 20:37
Do you have the settings please ?

Sum Dixon-Ear
28-12-2017, 23:26
Do you have the settings please ?

Sorry, I forgot all about this....

Wheel -

Sen - Auto
FFB - 100
SHO - 100
ABS - n/a
DRI - Off
FOR - 80-120 (depending on car, circuit etc, usually 100)
SPR - Off
DPR - Off
BRF - 100
FEI - 010

GAME -

Config -

Only Change - Brake Deadzone - 2, Brake Sensitivity - 35

FFB -

Raw
Gain - 100
Volume - 65
Tone - 55
FX - 60
Menu - 0.10

DervPM
29-12-2017, 12:00
Sorry, I forgot all about this....

Wheel -

Sen - Auto
FFB - 100
SHO - 100
ABS - n/a
DRI - Off
FOR - 80-120 (depending on car, circuit etc, usually 100)
SPR - Off
DPR - Off
BRF - 100
FEI - 010

GAME -

Config -

Only Change - Brake Deadzone - 2, Brake Sensitivity - 35

FFB -

Raw
Gain - 100
Volume - 65
Tone - 55
FX - 60
Menu - 0.10

an duine agad :applause:

Gizmodjango
29-12-2017, 13:04
If you mean the text underneath the FFB widget in the telemetry HUD, that is the name of the FFB preset that you are using. The controller screen should display your device properly.

Try Raw, seriously... it is excellent. I can run the wheel with very strong FFB and zero clipping.

in blue or purple mode?

DervPM
29-12-2017, 14:27
Csl always in blue mode with PC2

Rs60
30-12-2017, 23:30
Still have almost no curb feel even w fx 100. But I'm using a v2 w drivehub in csl emulation mode. Do csl users get strong curbs at 60? I can see the car moving in chase mode, but nothing on the wheel.

Otherwise can feel the other suspension and tire effects using similar raw settings. Tried the other flavors as well but agree raw is the best.

Also reinstalled the game. Same result.
Thx

Sum Dixon-Ear
30-12-2017, 23:51
Still have almost no curb feel even w fx 100. But I'm using a v2 w drivehub in csl emulation mode. Do csl users get strong curbs at 60? I can see the car moving in chase mode, but nothing on the wheel.

Otherwise can feel the other suspension and tire effects using similar raw settings. Tried the other flavors as well but agree raw is the best.

Also reinstalled the game. Same result.
Thx

I can't answer about playing via the Drivehub, but I would imagine that on a CSW V2 (through emulation mode) that FX at 100 would result in oversaturation regardless.

I don't get sharp, strong FFB over kerbs in PC2 no matter what settings I choose, but I do feel serrated rumble strips... it does feel rather more subdued than other titles. On the plus side, it actually feels like the sensations are being transferred though inflated rubber rather than riding on the rims... as is the feeling with every other sim I've driven.

I'm not sure whether you will ever get strong kerbs on PC2, but what you will get is a very detailed representation of what your tyres are actually doing.

I, for one, have learned to love the FFB... especially on Raw with nicely balanced effects... stick with it... feel those tyres gently vibrate as you push them too hard through a fast corner... heaven.

Rs60
31-12-2017, 16:50
Thx. Not seeing any clipping, and have tried various settings. Sometimes I might say i feel some curb, but the audio cues also add to the impression.

I do feel the larger features, through the suspension, like the dips off the edge of the asphalt or the large red secondary curbs inside some corners. That makes me wonder if there is some decimal error in the calcs for fx somewhere related to the curbs.

It's not a major spoiler. Overall I really like the feel of the ffb. But wondered if there was some odd behavior w th drivehub, which has overall been great for saving my wheel investment. If so I'd want to pass that on to them.

Sum Dixon-Ear
31-12-2017, 17:22
Thx. Not seeing any clipping, and have tried various settings. Sometimes I might say i feel some curb, but the audio cues also add to the impression.

I do feel the larger features, through the suspension, like the dips off the edge of the asphalt or the large red secondary curbs inside some corners. That makes me wonder if there is some decimal error in the calcs for fx somewhere related to the curbs.

It's not a major spoiler. Overall I really like the feel of the ffb. But wondered if there was some odd behavior w th drivehub, which has overall been great for saving my wheel investment. If so I'd want to pass that on to them.

It could well be a limitation with playing via the DH, with the CSLE PS4 in native mode the FFB is fantastic. Hope you manage to find a fix somehow.

Rs60
31-12-2017, 17:53
It could well be a limitation with playing via the DH, with the CSLE PS4 in native mode the FFB is fantastic. Hope you manage to find a fix somehow.

Yeah some weird sampling frequency thing, but still seems unlikely as otherwise seems so right on. I'll keep poking at it but not holding out for it. I've been posting on the DH site but If it's an SMS issue, they have plenty of other issues to deal w.

Happy new year

Sum Dixon-Ear
31-12-2017, 17:54
Happy new year

You too bud.

Viperx
07-01-2018, 20:02
Hello guys, Im new to force feedback wheels so I have nothing to compare to, but I feel like the FF affects are a little too strong, especially when drift is off instead of -5. The wheel constantly wants to oscillate back at forth, I guess thats the way its supposed to work. Are you not supposed to ever let go of the wheel?

What are some good settings to use after the update that allows the wheel to be in blue mode, since its supported in game now? What do I adjust to tune down the FF affect: the FF on the wheel, the For on the wheel, the gain in game, or the volume in game? Thanks.

Sum Dixon-Ear
07-01-2018, 20:28
Hello guys, Im new to force feedback wheels so I have nothing to compare to, but I feel like the FF affects are a little too strong, especially when drift is off instead of -5. The wheel constantly wants to oscillate back at forth, I guess thats the way its supposed to work. Are you not supposed to ever let go of the wheel?

What are some good settings to use after the update that allows the wheel to be in blue mode, since its supported in game now? What do I adjust to tune down the FF affect: the FF on the wheel, the For on the wheel, the gain in game, or the volume in game? Thanks.

Try these, see how you get on (I use the For setting on the wheel to get a nice strength per car) -

248454

Viperx
07-01-2018, 21:40
Thanks I will try those settings.

From my understanding, the FF and the FOR do the same thing in this case since SPR and DPR are off?

Another question, isn't it better to have the tone below 50 to get the feeling of the tires losing grip more vs the bumps in the road. I'm thinking that the tires losing grip in corners is a lot more helpful? Speaking of that, is there a video or guide or something explaining what the feeling in the force feedback actually means? For example, on Daytona I drive with full throttle around the whole track. In the straigh I don't feel much bumping/vibrating but in the corners I feel it and the force feedback graph shows the oscillations. Is this the tires on the edge of losing traction? It can't be bumps since the straights are pretty smooth.

Sum Dixon-Ear
07-01-2018, 22:08
I'm not entirely sure tbh, I never reduce FFB due to setting it to less than 100 on the old Porsche wheels effectively did nothing more than clip the forces... just habit I suppose.

I have no idea what's best as everyone's different, I like the balance of those settings for now, others will probably hate them.

Viperx
07-01-2018, 23:03
Can you explain to me what feeling in the wheel actually represents, particularly the vibrations on a high speed corner. Is it the force on the tires, losing traction?

Sum Dixon-Ear
07-01-2018, 23:12
Can you explain to me what feeling in the wheel actually represents, particularly the vibrations on a high speed corner. Is it the force on the tires, losing traction?

I think the sharp vibration/shake is the front tyres losing traction, it certainly feels like that to me anyway.

EDIT : Try the Ginetta GT5; the snatching of the front tyres (I presume) when still at less than optimum temps is amazing... one of my favourite effects in the game.

EDIT Part Deux : If you mean the subtle vibrations on high load corners, then I'm not too sure... could be suspension, tyres or steering rack... pass. Feels nice though, lol.

Rs60
09-01-2018, 02:54
Thanks I will try those settings.

From my understanding, the FF and the FOR do the same thing in this case since SPR and DPR are off?

Yes FF is the master level for the combo of FOR SPR & DPR. So if the other 2 are off then it's essentially the same, but FOR allows you to overdrive it by going above 100. Most ps4 titles including PC2 don't use the other 2 effects.

Panicsumo
09-01-2018, 09:44
What type of steering angle do you use on the steering wheel in the gt3 class?
Steereng sensitivity?
My setap
Steereng sen: 20
Wheel :560

Sankyo
09-01-2018, 09:46
What type of steering angle do you use on the steering wheel in the gt3 class?
Steereng sensitivity?
My setap
Steereng sen: 20
Wheel :560

You should always have your wheel set to the max steering angle it supports. The game takes care to limit the steering angle to match with the real car via a soft stop.

The_Flurk
11-01-2018, 07:39
What about Speed Sensitivity?
Or Damper Saturation or Controller Damping?

What value do you guys play with?

Are these values that change the steering wheel behaviour?
That's very unclear to me from the ingame help text.

Sum Dixon-Ear
11-01-2018, 11:12
What about Speed Sensitivity?
Or Damper Saturation or Controller Damping?

What value do you guys play with?

Are these values that change the steering wheel behaviour?
That's very unclear to me from the ingame help text.

I never touch them, I seem to remember reading that some (if not all) are for the gamepad.

Panicsumo
11-01-2018, 11:13
if 900 is the steering angle then GT3 turns over like a bus. 560 if I set up a much better time I'm going.

Sum Dixon-Ear
11-01-2018, 11:21
if 900 is the steering angle then GT3 turns over like a bus. 560 if I set up a much better time I'm going.

I would recommend setting the wheel sensitivity to Automatic, then let the game set the degrees of rotation per car and tweak the steering ratio to suit in the set up while in the pits.

Zaskarspants
11-01-2018, 11:28
if 900 is the steering angle then GT3 turns over like a bus. 560 if I set up a much better time I'm going.

GT3 is indeed about 500 degress lock, but cars even within a class can vary and as suggested by Sankyo it is best to let the game calibrate the wheel and set the lock for each car. The softlock will give the wheel maximum resitance to turning when max lock is hit.

The softlock effect can be missed if you have low torque wheel set to run a heavy ffb so best to stick with a non clipping set up.

I suggest using car set up menu in the race if you wish to reduce the lock further as this should ensure soft lock will still work with a tighter wheel.

Panicsumo
11-01-2018, 23:11
GT3 is indeed about 500 degress lock, but cars even within a class can vary and as suggested by Sankyo it is best to let the game calibrate the wheel and set the lock for each car. The softlock will give the wheel maximum resitance to turning when max lock is hit.

The softlock effect can be missed if you have low torque wheel set to run a heavy ffb so best to stick with a non clipping set up.

I suggest using car set up menu in the race if you wish to reduce the lock further as this should ensure soft lock will still work with a tighter wheel.

I tried the steering angle automatically. I did not even calibrate the steering wheel.
first track monza. Everything's perfect turns your car well.
second track catalunya. I'm gonna run the steering wheel again and I feel like it does not turn. I'm switching to 720 and perfect.
third course spa. I've put it back automatica and I have to go back a lot.
the steering wheel has the latest update. it's like setting every other track on the track. The 720 is also turning on the steering wheel as an automatic but at least the car will rotate. I can use the arches pretty well.

Sum Dixon-Ear
11-01-2018, 23:23
I tried the steering angle automatically. I did not even calibrate the steering wheel.


That's very strange, it works just fine for everyone I know with a CSLE-PS4.

Are you on latest firmware and running in PS4 mode?

Panicsumo
12-01-2018, 08:50
That's very strange, it works just fine for everyone I know with a CSLE-PS4.

Are you on latest firmware and running in PS4 mode?
In 293 beta and 335th game, the blue led lights up

Sum Dixon-Ear
12-01-2018, 09:53
In 293 beta and 335th game, the blue led lights up

I'm sorry, I misread your previous post. Are you saying that you changed Sen on the wheel but didn't recalibrate in game afterwards? If so, you would need to recalibrate the wheel in game, I think.

Panicsumo
12-01-2018, 10:31
I'm sorry, I misread your previous post. Are you saying that you changed Sen on the wheel but didn't recalibrate in game afterwards? If so, you would need to recalibrate the wheel in game, I think.

I'm gonna try it okay.
sen: automatic
steering calibration at 90 degrees 1080 or 900?

Sum Dixon-Ear
12-01-2018, 10:47
I'm gonna try it okay.
sen: automatic
steering calibration at 90 degrees 1080 or 900?

First turn the wheel fully to one side until it reads 100 then click the X button, then turn it to 90 degrees either way so that the number on the calibration screen reads 900 and click X again. After that the wheel should be perfectly calibrated in game.

Sankyo
12-01-2018, 10:50
First turn the wheel fully to one side until it reads 100 then click the X button, then turn it to 90 degrees either way so that the number on the calibration screen reads 900 and click X again. After that the wheel should be perfectly calibrated in game.
Hold on, shouldn't the CSL E read 1080 at 90 degrees at Sen = auto?

Sum Dixon-Ear
12-01-2018, 10:52
Hold on, shouldn't the CSL E read 1080 at 90 degrees at Sen = auto?

You would think so... but, no.

EDIT : That was something I noticed before the last patch sorted the wheel on PS4, I did expect it to read 1080 after that, but at exactly 90 turn it still reads as 900 degrees. Seems to work perfectly well regardless.

Panicsumo
13-01-2018, 23:37
this game is interesting. most recently the pedal v3 was not calibrated and the vibrating motor worked in the brake. now I calibrated and did not go. I tried the stump calibrated to 900 and automatically. Catalunyan I just had to stop because I did not turn it the way I want it.