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Ixoye56
22-09-2017, 23:44
Anyone that have good Thrustmaster TX FFB settings to share?

nissan4ever
23-09-2017, 00:35
240338
240296



I got 100 for max turn of wheel. The 900 is perfect 90° because my TX base is on default 900°.

The other picture is accurate for what I use, except my Gain is at 70 now. Otherwise that's it. I'm enjoying this game with my wheel & was way simpler to set up than PC1.

Itsdoomsday48
23-09-2017, 01:30
I've tried multiple settings with my TX and I still can't get it anywhere near what it felt like on PC1, its really becoming frustrating. Driving in a straight line alone has become a challenge, the wheel constantly jerks left and right

nissan4ever
23-09-2017, 02:57
I've tried multiple settings with my TX and I still can't get it anywhere near what it felt like on PC1, its really becoming frustrating. Driving in a straight line alone has become a challenge, the wheel constantly jerks left and right

Mine doesn't jerk left or right going in a straight line. It's weird mine is working fine & some users are having problems. Very unfortunate

I don't get any oscilation sitting still or going straight (I keep my hands on the wheel & feel correct FFB from the road surface. Regardless of grid size.). All I feel is correct FFB.

oscarolim
23-09-2017, 09:02
What settings are you using nissan?

Ixoye56
23-09-2017, 09:12
I haven't experience any problem with my TX either, but I have only drive in practice so far.

nissan4ever
23-09-2017, 09:30
What settings are you using nissan?

This, except my Gain is now 70.
240314

PrimalVigilante
23-09-2017, 09:35
Try raw and turn the gain down and the other up 60 to 70. I had the same on my tmx that cured it.

AFM
23-09-2017, 11:25
This, except my Gain is now 75.
240314

Do these adjustments aply to the Thrustmaster Ferrari F1 wheel??

nissan4ever
23-09-2017, 12:30
Do these adjustments aply to the Thrustmaster Ferrari F1 wheel??

You talking about with the Thrustmaster TX F1 add on rim? The rim on the TX wouldn't matter. But if the calibration was done incorrectly, then that could be it. Remember, for the first step. Turn the wheel full lock without forcing it to go further. Hit A Button. For the 90° calibration. Your TX base needs to be on default 900°. On screen, turn your wheel till you see 900. Hit A Button. That's it & correct calibration.

The game does soft lock to adjust DOR by the car. On top of that in tuning, you can adjust steering ration by car even further. There's just no reason to take your Thrustmaster TX off of default 900°.

Side note, the rim I'm currently using is in my profile picture. Later today, I'll put on my F1 Rim & do some runs in Formula, Indy & Lmp1. I'll see how it goes. Should be fine & no different than what I experienced with my other TX rim.

UPDATE I ran the Audi 18 e-tron at 24hr Le Mans. F1 rim was fine.
240337

TKMSte66
23-09-2017, 14:24
I thought I would add my FFB feedback.

I have found that turning the settings down quite a bit (i'll look what they are later) fixes the hard Jerking in a straight line. The problem I have is my FFb feels 'notchy'. I noticed it a lot when driving an indycar (road course). While turning for a long corner the wheel doesn't stay constant. It moves about. This is fine to an extent but it feels notchy and not very natural.
Also when driving down a straight the centre of wheel is very light and as the wheel moves very slightly side to side and meets resistance it again bounces back to centre. Im finding it very hard to explain but Im sure this could be fixed by increasing the resistance at center. You can actually replicate it at a much faster rate in the menus by very lightly with one finger pushing the wheel onto the resistance. The wheel will vibrate. This is the same effect as the wheel has a deadzone in the ffb at center

Sorry if I have made a dogs dinner of explaining it.

TX btw

Ixoye56
23-09-2017, 21:18
My FFB settings so far..

Thrustmaster TX Xbox One*

Flavour: Informative
Gain: 50
Volume: 50
Tone: 45
FX: 35
Menu Spring Strength: 0.02

I doesn't like my wheel to feel heavy and have to much road info, I aiming for more neutral and realistic feeling, but I think my settings still needs som fine tuning.

Hefferzzzz
25-09-2017, 09:12
I thought I would add my FFB feedback.

I have found that turning the settings down quite a bit (i'll look what they are later) fixes the hard Jerking in a straight line. The problem I have is my FFb feels 'notchy'. I noticed it a lot when driving an indycar (road course). While turning for a long corner the wheel doesn't stay constant. It moves about. This is fine to an extent but it feels notchy and not very natural.
Also when driving down a straight the centre of wheel is very light and as the wheel moves very slightly side to side and meets resistance it again bounces back to centre. Im finding it very hard to explain but Im sure this could be fixed by increasing the resistance at center. You can actually replicate it at a much faster rate in the menus by very lightly with one finger pushing the wheel onto the resistance. The wheel will vibrate. This is the same effect as the wheel has a deadzone in the ffb at center

Sorry if I have made a dogs dinner of explaining it.

TX btw

This!

I had the same issue with Pcars1 and there was a setting that got rid of it but I cannot remember what it was. Unfortunately due to the lack of adjustments available in Pcars2 I don't think its going to be as easy to fix.

The best way to describe it is like being able to feel every single tooth on the belt, trying to hold a steady wheel through a long radius corner is impossible.

Foolsjester
25-09-2017, 09:54
Anyone that have good Thrustmaster TX FFB settings to share?

Raw
100 - shouldn't adjust this
49 - adjust this for weight of wheel
22
45

Raudi
25-09-2017, 16:42
Raw
100 - shouldn't adjust this
49 - adjust this for weight of wheel
22
45

These settings made a huge difference for me and work great - thanks for posting!

snipeme77
25-09-2017, 17:00
So guys the TX series of wheels ARE working in Pcars 2?

NexusG
25-09-2017, 17:44
I'm having terrible problems with the wheel shuddering/oscillating. Imola is particularly bad. I'm going to try the above settings to see if they improve it.

Itsdoomsday48
25-09-2017, 17:55
My FFB settings so far..

Thrustmaster TX Xbox One*

Flavour: Informative
Gain: 50
Volume: 50
Tone: 45
FX: 35
Menu Spring Strength: 0.02

I doesn't like my wheel to feel heavy and have to much road info, I aiming for more neutral and realistic feeling, but I think my settings still needs som fine tuning.

Will try this when I get home. At this point I'm willing to try anything to get this game to feel even a little bit normal. Hopefully the left and right jitters my wheel is experiencing down straights will be resolved with a patch as it has been noted by many on the forum

HUSARIA
25-09-2017, 18:17
Just picked up the tx pro leather wheel yesterday. Works good with pc2 so far.

Robhd
25-09-2017, 18:20
Great work.. Big difference and am gaining huge chunks in lap times using these... Thank you so much for sharing!

Foolsjester
25-09-2017, 18:36
So guys the TX series of wheels ARE working in Pcars 2?


Yes and better feeling than PC1 with tyre flex model

Rockefelluh
25-09-2017, 20:10
You talking about with the Thrustmaster TX F1 add on rim? The rim on the TX wouldn't matter. But if the calibration was done incorrectly, then that could be it. Remember, for the first step. Turn the wheel full lock without forcing it to go further. Hit A Button. For the 90° calibration. Your TX base needs to be on default 900°. On screen, turn your wheel till you see 900. Hit A Button. That's it & correct calibration.

The game does soft lock to adjust DOR by the car. On top of that in tuning, you can adjust steering ration by car even further. There's just no reason to take your Thrustmaster TX off of default 900°.

Side note, the rim I'm currently using is in my profile picture. Later today, I'll put on my F1 Rim & do some runs in Formula, Indy & Lmp1. I'll see how it goes. Should be fine & no different than what I experienced with my other TX rim.

UPDATE I ran the Audi 18 e-tron at 24hr Le Mans. F1 rim was fine.
240337

I'm a dunce and can't find the calibration screen anywhere. Help a brother out!

Dynomight Motorsports
25-09-2017, 22:10
Raw
100 - shouldn't adjust this
49 - adjust this for weight of wheel
22
45

Will try this tonight.. been a little put off by the complexity of a whole new game. Kinda wish they would have kept some stuff the same.

firebert5
26-09-2017, 00:29
So guys the TX series of wheels ARE working in Pcars 2?

Mine has worked just fine, no issues at all.

nissan4ever
26-09-2017, 00:33
I'm a dunce and can't find the calibration screen anywhere. Help a brother out!

Go to options. Select controller (upper far right). Scroll down & select calibrate wheel. After doing that, calibrate your pedals. They're next option below wheel calibration.

bennoj61
26-09-2017, 15:09
Try raw and turn the gain down and the other up 60 to 70. I had the same on my tmx that cured it.

Thanks, I also have a TMX and switching to Raw, Gain at 90 and everything else at 70 made everything much better.

thevilleky
26-09-2017, 15:47
I have a question on this. I have the tx. I did calibration. I turn to the left max and it says like 90, then I thought I was to rotate my wheel all the way around until lock to the right. When I do this the number on the right side of the screen where yours says 900, mine says 180. I have calibrated my wheel this way in AC,PC1, and PC2. I haven't had any issues with driving so I'm confused as if I am not calibrating the wheel right.

so I literally just turn the wheel all the way to the left, hit next, and then rotate my wheel only 90 degrees? I get that 90 degrees is a quarter rotation, but how do I make sure I've rotated just 90 degrees and not say 85 or 100? Wouldn't this throw off the setting then? Should I rotate my wheel to the right until it hits 900?

Sorry if this seems like a really inane question but I haven't felt like I've had any issues with FFB and I don't calibrate my wheel this way.

GRTfast
26-09-2017, 16:57
Raw
100 - shouldn't adjust this
49 - adjust this for weight of wheel
22
45

I'm running this now with the volume (wheel weight adjustment) at 35 and it is SWEET!! Thanks!!

Juiced46
26-09-2017, 17:24
So guys the TX series of wheels ARE working in Pcars 2?

No issues with the TX for me at all. I have been tweaking settings constantly until I got the feel I wanted and working flawless.


I have a question on this. I have the tx. I did calibration. I turn to the left max and it says like 90, then I thought I was to rotate my wheel all the way around until lock to the right. When I do this the number on the right side of the screen where yours says 900, mine says 180. I have calibrated my wheel this way in AC,PC1, and PC2. I haven't had any issues with driving so I'm confused as if I am not calibrating the wheel right.

so I literally just turn the wheel all the way to the left, hit next, and then rotate my wheel only 90 degrees? I get that 90 degrees is a quarter rotation, but how do I make sure I've rotated just 90 degrees and not say 85 or 100? Wouldn't this throw off the setting then? Should I rotate my wheel to the right until it hits 900?

Sorry if this seems like a really inane question but I haven't felt like I've had any issues with FFB and I don't calibrate my wheel this way.

I usually rotate to the right. But anyhow this is how you do it.

Rotate right, you will feel a bit of resistance around 90. Go harder right until you hit 100. Now its going to want you to go 90*. Re center, go 90* to the right, when you are @ 90* you should see 900 on the screen. You are now calibrated.

Chetly
26-09-2017, 18:24
Kinda off topic but I have the TX base, the 599XX EVO add on wheel and the T3PA pedal setup and when I go to configuration screen I can't program buttons to act as the RB/LB. This is limiting my ability to use KERS and Active aero so some cars. Other than that I'm not having any issues but I do plan on changing some of the settings to see if it makes the wheel feel better.

Foolsjester
26-09-2017, 18:39
I have a question on this. I have the tx. I did calibration. I turn to the left max and it says like 90, then I thought I was to rotate my wheel all the way around until lock to the right. When I do this the number on the right side of the screen where yours says 900, mine says 180. I have calibrated my wheel this way in AC,PC1, and PC2. I haven't had any issues with driving so I'm confused as if I am not calibrating the wheel right.

so I literally just turn the wheel all the way to the left, hit next, and then rotate my wheel only 90 degrees? I get that 90 degrees is a quarter rotation, but how do I make sure I've rotated just 90 degrees and not say 85 or 100? Wouldn't this throw off the setting then? Should I rotate my wheel to the right until it hits 900?

Sorry if this seems like a really inane question but I haven't felt like I've had any issues with FFB and I don't calibrate my wheel this way.

You may have dor set on TX base to not 900. Look in thrustmaster support, there is a doc on changing dor on TX base. Think it's mode button on left of base and left/right on digi pad. Light flashes to show setting. Think 4 flashes is 900, 3 is 720, 2 is 540, 1 is 360

This should be set to 900 and game should do the soft lock but soft lock in game isn't working

snipeme77
26-09-2017, 18:41
So I have the TMX wheel, and I can't get 900 degree's of rotation. Either goes to 897 or 901.

Juiced46
26-09-2017, 21:33
So I have the TMX wheel, and I can't get 900 degree's of rotation. Either goes to 897 or 901.

901 is OK. But you should be able to move the wheel very slightly to fine tune it if you want to get it dead nuts on 900.

thevilleky
27-09-2017, 01:41
You may have dor set on TX base to not 900. Look in thrustmaster support, there is a doc on changing dor on TX base. Think it's mode button on left of base and left/right on digi pad. Light flashes to show setting. Think 4 flashes is 900, 3 is 720, 2 is 540, 1 is 360

This should be set to 900 and game should do the soft lock but soft lock in game isn't working

I'm able to change rotation. I actually switch mine to 360 after calibration. I like have a much faster steering response. Maybe this makes me turn the front wheels to much in slow corners and i scrub some speed. But at say spa with the kink right before the ending chicane I really need to move quick so I like that better. When I calibrated today I got 100 for the left number and 286 for the right. As far as I can tell there was not change in the wheel. I'll try to suggestion to go full lock right, recenter and go 90 degrees right and see what I get. I'm in xbox so don't know if this makes a difference.

The Ffb works great and don't have any issues so this whole calibration thing just makes me wonder if I am missing some feel from the wheel. Seems very odd that I can basically completely screw up the calibration and nothing changes and it drives just fine.

HaglePer
27-09-2017, 07:34
Hi guys
I play for now with tx wheel default settings. Some cars are unplayable, like the GT4 class, dunno if it's the wheel making them unplayable, but they slide around in 50-60kph on dry tarmac with slicks. I'm from norway, that only happens on snow :)
Other cars are just perfect, like the Ferrari 488 racecar, the Renault Rs01 (great car)

But, the last game I raced was Dirt rally, with rotation set to 540, I see guys here talk about 900, is that better and (stupid question?) why?

Disease
27-09-2017, 08:07
I'm having terrible problems with the wheel shuddering/oscillating. Imola is particularly bad. I'm going to try the above settings to see if they improve it.

yes Imola for me also felt terrible, like it was a gravel road or something.. wheel was shaking/vibrating way too much

Foolsjester
27-09-2017, 10:06
I'm able to change rotation. I actually switch mine to 360 after calibration. I like have a much faster steering response. Maybe this makes me turn the front wheels to much in slow corners and i scrub some speed. But at say spa with the kink right before the ending chicane I really need to move quick so I like that better. When I calibrated today I got 100 for the left number and 286 for the right. As far as I can tell there was not change in the wheel. I'll try to suggestion to go full lock right, recenter and go 90 degrees right and see what I get. I'm in xbox so don't know if this makes a difference.

The Ffb works great and don't have any issues so this whole calibration thing just makes me wonder if I am missing some feel from the wheel. Seems very odd that I can basically completely screw up the calibration and nothing changes and it drives just fine.

The in game steering ration and therefore ffb is based on the car. Turning down from calibrating the wheel will affect these settings so the steering and FFB will be off. Like you are narrowing the range of feel and effects through the the wheel.

I'm on xb1 with tx and with wheel dor at 900 and calibration at 900/90, with my settings earlier in the thread, pc2 feels real and fantastic to me. I do mainly drive older cars with manual and 900 dor in real life.

For indy car, for example, set dor on wheel base to 540. Only do this until they fix the soft lock dor in game, then just keep everything at 900 and you will get true steering dor and ffb

Foolsjester
27-09-2017, 10:09
Hi guys
I play for now with tx wheel default settings. Some cars are unplayable, like the GT4 class, dunno if it's the wheel making them unplayable, but they slide around in 50-60kph on dry tarmac with slicks. I'm from norway, that only happens on snow :)
Other cars are just perfect, like the Ferrari 488 racecar, the Renault Rs01 (great car)

But, the last game I raced was Dirt rally, with rotation set to 540, I see guys here talk about 900, is that better and (stupid question?) why?

This is due to soft lock dor not working in game. Gt3 does not have 900 dor. Until fixed, adjust dor on TX base

900 in game allows game to present correct ffb range to wheel

Basicblaq
27-09-2017, 15:44
My Wheel Calibrate setting is 100 / 900
Configuration: Steering Deadzone - 0
Steering Sensitivity - 70
Throttle Deadzone - 0
Throttle Sensitivity - 25
Brake Deadzone - 0
Brake Sensitivity - 25
Clutch Deadzone - 0
Clutch Sensitivity - 100
Speed Sensitivity - 10
Damper Saturation - 60
Controller Daming - 100
Controller Vibration - 50
Minimum Shift Time - 0

Force Feedback: Flavour - Raw
Gain - 100
Volume - 60
Tone - 45
FX - 65
Menu Spring Strength - 0

These setting feel really good and I haven't experienced any clipping.

HaglePer
28-09-2017, 07:34
This is due to soft lock dor not working in game. Gt3 does not have 900 dor. Until fixed, adjust dor on TX base

900 in game allows game to present correct ffb range to wheel

Tnx :)

CXR PhilGDUK
28-09-2017, 09:40
Coping them over from another thread but these settings on the TX wheel using both GT wheel or F1 feel pretty damn good, may as well have another one to try!

Speed Sensitivity - 0
Damper Saturation - 25

RAW Flavour
Gain - 100
Volume - 50 (If you can assign two buttons for increasing and decreasing this from the controller assignments as this is the overall weight and feel of the FFB)
Tone - 22
FX - 45

zzjorzz
28-09-2017, 09:50
I have a question, the people the experience problems with the TM TX, do you have the latest firmware update done on the wheel?

CXR PhilGDUK
28-09-2017, 10:04
I have a question, the people the experience problems with the TM TX, do you have the latest firmware update done on the wheel?

Do you know what the latest one is? Think its v50.B9

Ixoye56
28-09-2017, 11:59
The V50 is the latest, although it's a couple of years old now....

Juiced46
28-09-2017, 14:11
I would be interested to see the people that are having issues, what machine and what media you are using. So far, the people that have actually mentioned it are using a disc version that have had problems, or atleast reported it was with a disc.

For me. Xbox One S and Digital download with zero issues with my Thrustmaster TX V50 Firmware.

Ixoye56
29-09-2017, 21:30
I don't understand why so many use so high gain value ? I have never driven a real car that feel so heavy in steering, maybe a tractor, I use 50 to 60 max on my TX with informative flavor, that I personally like most.

CXR PhilGDUK
30-09-2017, 11:38
I don't understand why so many use so high gain value ? I have never driven a real car that feel so heavy in steering, maybe a tractor, I use 50 to 60 max on my TX with informative flavor, that I personally like most.

Because at 50%/60% your missing out on 50%/40% of FFB information. If you think the wheel is too heavy, turn down the volume. Its best to alter the volume per car using the inc/dec FFB volume buttons once mapped in the Edit Assignments bit.

At 100% Gain no car im driving feels heavy, because ive got the volume set correctly. Hope this helps.

There is also a 2017 driver package over at thrustmaster which is worth installing:

https://support.thrustmaster.com/en/product/txracingwheel-en/

Ixoye56
30-09-2017, 12:43
Those drivers are for PC.

CXR PhilGDUK
30-09-2017, 15:25
Those drivers are for PC.

They're for the wheel in general, always best to have the latest and greatest when it comes to drivers.

Ixoye56
01-10-2017, 00:08
They're for the wheel in general, always best to have the latest and greatest when it comes to drivers.

Yes, but you can't install those drivers on Xbox, you can only flash your wheel with the latest firmware, and according to Thrustmaster, there is no newer firmware than V.50.B9, but if you use your wheel on PC they will work.

Super Supes
01-10-2017, 10:28
Yes, but you can't install those drivers on Xbox, you can only flash your wheel with the latest firmware, and according to Thrustmaster, there is no newer firmware than V.50.B9, but if you use your wheel on PC they will work.

According to Thrustmaster the drivers have an effect on xbox. And since doing it as per my thread it has been perfect.

Super Supes
01-10-2017, 10:31
I have a question, the people the experience problems with the TM TX, do you have the latest firmware update done on the wheel?

I was having issues although the wheel had the V50 firmware standard.
After contacting Thrustmaster they instructed me to flash the wheel with the latest driver package as would help on the Xbox, not just Pc .
Since doing that and a couple other things it has been PERFECT .��

This thread :
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?53753-For-those-having-issues-with-Thrustmaster-Tx

Robhd
01-10-2017, 11:18
At first I thought the ffb was a real issue but having now spent more time figuring it out i think ts working pretty well with a TX wheel aside from that slight oscillating feeling through the wheel here and there, i like a heavier wheel feeling as this mimics the feeling of a race tyre on a track against a light wheel which just feels too arcadey for me..

I just wonder if a lot of folk may be just expect the flat setting out the box to work with every product to everyone's liking?

Ixoye56
01-10-2017, 11:37
According to Thrustmaster the drivers have an effect on xbox. And since doing it as per my thread it has been perfect.

Then you must got misinformed, these drivers are PC specific, and have nothing to do with Xbox, these drivers are plain text files (codes) for windows to use, they can't magically flash your wheel, only the firmware can do that, and that is the same from 2015, I expect your firmware was broken, maybe you have update your wheel using USB3? if you did, there is a chance that there may be an error during the installation, also to flash the wheel in "boot mode" is important to avoid problems.

Y22 Rydr
01-10-2017, 12:16
I figured I would throw mine out there. I am trying to keep the feedback to feel the most from tire grip and some feedback on the bumps but nothing that jerks the wheel around on bumpy tracks. Anyways here is what I have currently settled on.

Under configuration tab
All deadzones = 0
Sensitivity
steering 45
Throttle 20
Brake 20
Clutch 45
Speed 45
Damper saturation = 36 (I keep it here or a bit lower and use the volume to control the weight of the wheel)
Controller damping 50
Controller vibration 50
Minimum shift 0
RPM/Gear Display yes

Force feedback tab
Flavor = Raw
Gain = 100
Volume = 30
Tone = 75
FX = 37
Menu Spring = 0.40

Also I did update my wheel with the latest available drivers from Thrustmaster just to ensure my wheel was current before I jumped into the game.

Juiced46
01-10-2017, 13:54
They're for the wheel in general, always best to have the latest and greatest when it comes to drivers.


According to Thrustmaster the drivers have an effect on xbox. And since doing it as per my thread it has been perfect.


I was having issues although the wheel had the V50 firmware standard.
After contacting Thrustmaster they instructed me to flash the wheel with the latest driver package as would help on the Xbox, not just Pc .
Since doing that and a couple other things it has been PERFECT .��

This thread :
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?53753-For-those-having-issues-with-Thrustmaster-Tx

You guys are MASSIVELY confused.

The Drivers are for Windows compatibility when you use the wheel with your PC. The DRIVERS get installed to your PC, NOT the wheel. This has ZERO affect on functionality with Xbox.

FIRMWARE is different then a DRIVER. The FIRMWARE gets flashed DIRECTLY to the wheel. You flash the FIRMWARE from your PC INTO the wheel. The FIRMWARE info gets stored IN the wheel. The Firmware is the only thing that matters for the Xbox. The drivers do NOTHING for you on an Xbox.

Drivers= Stored in PC
Firmware= Stored in Wheel.

With that being said. if you were on V50, you still have V50. If you see any difference, its either a Placebo affect or you had some older or malfunctioning firmware on the wheel previously. Installing those drivers will fix nothing on the Xbox.

Super Supes
01-10-2017, 14:27
You guys are MASSIVELY confused.

The Drivers are for Windows compatibility when you use the wheel with your PC. The DRIVERS get installed to your PC, NOT the wheel. This has ZERO affect on functionality with Xbox.

FIRMWARE is different then a DRIVER. The FIRMWARE gets flashed DIRECTLY to the wheel. You flash the FIRMWARE from your PC INTO the wheel. The FIRMWARE info gets stored IN the wheel. The Firmware is the only thing that matters for the Xbox. The drivers do NOTHING for you on an Xbox.

Drivers= Stored in PC
Firmware= Stored in Wheel.

With that being said. if you were on V50, you still have V50. If you see any difference, its either a Placebo affect or you had some older or malfunctioning firmware on the wheel previously. Installing those drivers will fix nothing on the Xbox.

Please let Thrustmaster know... Obviously they dont have a clue .

As neither do i as im sure i was imagining the massive ffb issues i was having...
I posted the information as its what i was told and what i did. It wasnt a PLACEBO effect, and it sorted my issues.
I also said i had reinstalled the game. Maybe it was that. Maybe it was faulty firmware.
Frankly im not fussed, my isdues were sorted and made the game playable.
Obviously my mistake was trying to pass on this informatoon and experience to try and help others.
Yet no1 else it seems can have issues as a few were fortunate enough not to

Juiced46
01-10-2017, 14:33
Please let Thrustmaster know... Obviously they dont have a clue .

As neither do i as im sure i was imagining the massive ffb issues i was having...
I posted the information as its what i was told and what i did. It wasnt a PLACEBO effect, and it sorted my issues.
I also said i had reinstalled the game. Maybe it was that. Maybe it was faulty firmware.
Frankly im not fussed, my isdues were sorted and made the game playable.
Obviously my mistake was trying to pass on this informatoon and experience to try and help others.
Yet no1 else it seems can have issues as a few were fortunate enough not to

That is fine to pass on information to others. That is what we are here for. The problem is, some of the info you are passing along is incorrect and some of us are correcting you. Don't get mad because we are telling you are wrong, but the fact is you are wrong. This response is not meant to downtalk you as I have mentioned before, just trying to clarify some points. You keep mentioning you are flashing drivers to the wheel. For people that may not know much about how computers work, may get confused. You do not flash drivers to the wheel. Plain and simple.

If you fixed your issue, great!!!!!! Enjoy the game now

But it wasn't from flashing drivers.......

RoccoTTS
01-10-2017, 14:49
You guys are MASSIVELY confused.

The Drivers are for Windows compatibility when you use the wheel with your PC. The DRIVERS get installed to your PC, NOT the wheel. This has ZERO affect on functionality with Xbox.

FIRMWARE is different then a DRIVER. The FIRMWARE gets flashed DIRECTLY to the wheel. You flash the FIRMWARE from your PC INTO the wheel. The FIRMWARE info gets stored IN the wheel. The Firmware is the only thing that matters for the Xbox. The drivers do NOTHING for you on an Xbox.

Drivers= Stored in PC
Firmware= Stored in Wheel.

With that being said. if you were on V50, you still have V50. If you see any difference, its either a Placebo affect or you had some older or malfunctioning firmware on the wheel previously. Installing those drivers will fix nothing on the Xbox.

Indeed, that's correct :yes:

Ball325
25-10-2017, 01:50
i just updated my wheel and it ruined all FFB feel. I can barely drive the car now.

Juiced46
25-10-2017, 01:52
i just updated my wheel and it ruined all FFB feel. I can barely drive the car now.

What are your wheel settings? What Firmware are you on? Did you do a hard reset on your Xbox and not use "Instant On"?

Ball325
25-10-2017, 02:16
What are your wheel settings? What Firmware are you on? Did you do a hard reset on your Xbox and not use "Instant On"?

Wheel settings where the same as before, I tried a few different variants nothing fixed the total lack of FFB mid corner. It feels like soon as I turn the wheel i'm on ice. No feedback what so ever.

The most recent firmware, thrustmaster doesnt exactly let you choose...

I've never used instant on.

Juiced46
25-10-2017, 02:20
Wheel settings where the same as before, I tried a few different variants nothing fixed the total lack of FFB mid corner. It feels like soon as I turn the wheel i'm on ice. No feedback what so ever.

The most recent firmware, thrustmaster doesnt exactly let you choose...

I've never used instant on.

Since you made a new thread, I am just going to reply there so its less cluttered....

Disease
25-10-2017, 04:08
Can someone test these ffb settings for me on TX and give me their thoughts?
I've been in that bubble of testing so many different things that I've lost track of my bearings a little.. And I want to know if I'm going crazy or if these actually feel pretty good.

Informative
Gain 50
Volume 100
Tone 50
Fx 50
Damper sat 0
Been using gt3 cars, mainly the audi r8

Juiced46
31-10-2017, 22:26
Can someone test these ffb settings for me on TX and give me their thoughts?
I've been in that bubble of testing so many different things that I've lost track of my bearings a little.. And I want to know if I'm going crazy or if these actually feel pretty good.

Informative
Gain 50
Volume 100
Tone 50
Fx 50
Damper sat 0
Been using gt3 cars, mainly the audi r8



I tried your settings with the same Audi on a Stable setup with Soft Slicks. Unfortunately, I did not like them. Wheel is too light in corners and coming out of a turn the wheel wants to jerk a bit.

Disease
01-11-2017, 03:05
I tried your settings with the same Audi on a Stable setup with Soft Slicks. Unfortunately, I did not like them. Wheel is too light in corners and coming out of a turn the wheel wants to jerk a bit.

Thanks for testing, I'd forgotten about that :cool:
Interesting that I don't think there's any wheel jerk out of corners in my experience..
Out of curiosity, what are you currently running for your preferred settings? (So I know where you're coming from)

Trudd
01-11-2017, 17:04
Below FFB settings are my current settings after literary trying dozens of different setting on both Informative and Raw (didn't find Immersive to be for me)
Informative is slightly more informative (sorry) and slightly heavier steering. But also a bit choppier and not as smooth as Raw so after two months I decided to stick with the Raw setup.

Both settings are probably too light for some, but I found that these settings gave me the greatest feedback on how to keep the car on the edge and be able to recover when actually loosing it. The downside is that the steering wheel might not be as alive as some heavier settings, but my main goal here is to get a feel for the car on the limit. The worst car is the Acura NSX as it is to light even for my taste, but it still allows me to control the car quite well.

I have found a bunch of cars that all behave and feel quite differently depending on the ffb settings. The hardest bit is to find settings that work well with all the top 3 cars. I know that some choose to have different setting for all cars, but I try to avoid it myself (too much work). These general settings works for me on all cars I tried, so far anyway. I can slightly adjust Gain and Volume from time to time to really optimize for a specific car. Works good enough for me.

Main test-cars
Bentley Continental GT3 24H [Heaviest FFB]
Acura Honda NSX [Lightest FFB]
Catherham Seven 620 R ["Unstable" car]
SMS Formula X [High downforce]
Renault Clio IV RS Cup [FWD]

The reason for the Gain and Volume being equal in both is mainly that this gives me the best handling of the Catherham. Allowing for smooth slides instead of choppy ones. And the reason I lower the Tone even more in Raw is to better handle slides in the Clio.

Maybe this can help someone not quite liking the main high Tone settings I find most of the time when looking around. But my best advice is that what someone (even a very good driver) likes is almost certainly not optimal for you. So don't just settle for the first good settings you find. You may be as surprised as I was how different it can feel when you find what works best for you. Anyway long rant over.

Flavour: Raw
Gain: 70
Volume: 70
Tone: 5
FX: 5

Flavour: Informative
Gain: 66
Volume: 66
Tone: 11
FX: 14

Steering Deadzone: 0
Steering Sensitivity: (50-)55(-60)
Throttle Deadzone: 1
Throttle Sensitivity: 50
Brake Deadzone: 1
Brake Sensitivity: 50
Clutch Deadzone: 1
Clutch Sensitivity: 50
Speed Sensitivity: 0
Damper Saturation: 0

Ball325
01-11-2017, 19:35
I keep seeing people running 0 damper saturation.

My question is, does damper saturation smooth out the FFB signal in anyway? I've had a hell of a time getting good kerb feel without clipping. I like a VERY heavy steering wheel, it best mimics my real life experience with a number of different race cars. I haven't been able to achieve this without cranking the saturation.

So if you are one of the people running 0 for damper saturation, do you find that you do not like a heavier wheel?

Trudd
02-11-2017, 04:41
Well speaking for myself (of course) There is a difference between the steering feeling great and being able to steer the car well. I like the feel of a heavy steering wheel och high FX. It's fun and immersive. However that doesn't mean I can handle the car well. With high damper saturation I feel like I cannot be precise enough when I need to do slight sudden corrections with the steering wheel. The same goes for using high Tone. It feels great but I cannot tell when I'm close to the limit and the car will just spin out when I push a bit too much, and I have no chance of recovering the car. So for me it's all about finding the settings that best alerts me that I need to do something to avoid loosing the car completely. And low tone and damper saturation values are the best way for me to get that feedback. For instance the below settings felt better in many ways when driving many cars, but I also kept loosing the car more often and was not actually quicker even if it felt better in many ways.

Flavour: Informative
Gain: 60(-70)
Volume: 60(-70)
Tone: 90
FX: 30

Juiced46
02-11-2017, 22:11
Thanks for testing, I'd forgotten about that :cool:
Interesting that I don't think there's any wheel jerk out of corners in my experience..
Out of curiosity, what are you currently running for your preferred settings? (So I know where you're coming from)

I am getting jerking with your settings coming out of every turn. Not sure why, unless you have damper saturation or some other setting that is different then mine that was not mentioned.

Currently I am running.

Raw
Gain 100
Volume 65
Tone 70
FX 65
Damper Saturation 0.

I am still tweaking trying to get a little more curb feel. I tried Immersive with my settings and it just didnt work good at all. I tried informative, I was able to get some better curb feel but the wheel in and out of corners was too light for my liking.

I like a heavier wheel as well, I can go more with volume and not clip but then I lose the control factor like mentioned if I go too heavy. But these settings have been working well for me. Not perfect, but work well.

On the wheel itself I have DOR set to 900, Sensitvity 1.


I keep seeing people running 0 damper saturation.

My question is, does damper saturation smooth out the FFB signal in anyway? I've had a hell of a time getting good kerb feel without clipping. I like a VERY heavy steering wheel, it best mimics my real life experience with a number of different race cars. I haven't been able to achieve this without cranking the saturation.

So if you are one of the people running 0 for damper saturation, do you find that you do not like a heavier wheel?

I can get a heavy wheel with Damper Saturation @ 0. You need to adjust volume to tweak your wheel weight. I will try to turn volume all the way up tonight with Damper Saturation at 0 to see what it feels like on mine. I havent tried maxxing it out.

Ball325
03-11-2017, 12:26
I am getting jerking with your settings coming out of every turn. Not sure why, unless you have damper saturation or some other setting that is different then mine that was not mentioned.

Currently I am running.

Raw
Gain 100
Volume 65
Tone 70
FX 65
Damper Saturation 0.

I am still tweaking trying to get a little more curb feel. I tried Immersive with my settings and it just didnt work good at all. I tried informative, I was able to get some better curb feel but the wheel in and out of corners was too light for my liking.

I like a heavier wheel as well, I can go more with volume and not clip but then I lose the control factor like mentioned if I go too heavy. But these settings have been working well for me. Not perfect, but work well.

On the wheel itself I have DOR set to 900, Sensitvity 1.



I can get a heavy wheel with Damper Saturation @ 0. You need to adjust volume to tweak your wheel weight. I will try to turn volume all the way up tonight with Damper Saturation at 0 to see what it feels like on mine. I havent tried maxxing it out.

As we are discussing in the other thread, I can't adjust my volume high enough to get my desired wheel weight without clipping. I fear this is sort of a byproduct of the way PC2 has these adjustments set up.

RobPhoboS
06-12-2017, 07:49
I'm doing 15-20 mins of testing here and there. There are some trade offs for me it seems at the moment but I'm learning and things will likely change another 100 times yet.

Typically what I'm looking for is plenty of surface detail, will the rumble of curbs and the feeling of slip/grip on the tyres.
Of course it's not quite the same as reality but we need information to interpret so we can respond accordingly. I was driving with the aid's on for most cars but at differing levels of tc, and abs quite weak/low.

Last night I thought I'd try out the clio/radicals and see how it goes with testing of ffb.
Initially I was on informative but ended up here with stronger wheel resistance than I'm used to BUT I barely spun out with all of the driving aid's off now.
So I'm more stable driving and can feel the slip happening and can react to it.

(now testing with)
Immersive
100
34
34
41


And previously I was using:

Informative
98
27
65
65


And speed sensitivity is at 45.
(something about Ben Collins recommending that)

Benja190782
07-12-2017, 19:10
Still can't get the hang of the FFB on my TX for PC2 on my XB1X.

I hope the patch 3.0 will change that tonight.

Currently running 50, 50, 30, 50 on Informative but it's still notchy.

RobPhoboS
07-12-2017, 19:14
I enjoy testing and much more to do.
There is some decent information to read through, it's all personal preferences though.

Benja190782
07-12-2017, 19:15
I enjoy testing and much more to do.
There is some decent information to read through, it's all personal preferences though.

What's your latest FFB settings?

RobPhoboS
07-12-2017, 20:23
What's your latest FFB settings?

Technically yours !
I like it. I'll try a few races tonight after the gym.

HammerToof
07-12-2017, 21:15
I'm settling for Raw 100 35 100 5. A slight volume adjustment for various cars but this is what I'm sticking to.
I've never spent more time in the menus of of a game rather than playing it. This game has set off my calibration OCD big time.

ProCorvette73
08-12-2017, 13:04
I am away from my Xbox One X right now so I don't have my settings with me but if you message my GT: ProCorvette73, I can message you them later when I am home. With my settings, I get zero wheel shake and it is as close to PC1 as I have been able to do.

rrusso
08-12-2017, 13:10
Guys

I have TMX Pro

I use RAW with some adjustments before this patch

Could you please share what could be a good settings for my wheel? Hes not stronger as TX, but its worth the price and have the same pedal

Thanks

Hammerpgh
15-12-2017, 15:29
Great thread guys and some really useful information for us TX or TMX users. I have had my wheel for coming up to two years now and have had no problems in any other game but pCars has always tended to be a bit of a black art in terms of it's FFB. I hoped that was going to change with pCars 2 but it seems to not be the case. I am struggling to get the sort of feeling that I like and also feel the wheel is quite 'lumpy' and 'grindy' most of the time. Not what I feel in other games.

On another note I in particular find that the FFB at Indianapolis is pretty much non-existent whether in surface feel or forces acting on the wheel in the corners or anywhere basically. I have played around with the flavours and individual settings but it makes very little difference at this track and I assume that will be the same at the other ovals as well. After a spell of tweaking last night and never really getting anywhere I drove full speed into the end of the pit lane wall to see what feedback I got from that and the basically it was was virtually nil. Am I missing something here or is this what others are also experiencing?

HammerToof
15-12-2017, 17:14
I really like this game, but to be completely honest I've never found that smooth bouncy springy ffb feel I had on pcars1. Pcars2 feels either a bit too stiff or a bit notchy.
Has anybody got any settings which make it feel close to pcars1?

Ixoye56
17-12-2017, 00:10
I really like this game, but to be completely honest I've never found that smooth bouncy springy ffb feel I had on pcars1. Pcars2 feels either a bit too stiff or a bit notchy.
Has anybody got any settings which make it feel close to pcars1?

I feel the same as you, I liked PC1 FFB much better, can't get rid of that notchy feeling at some tracks.

Benja190782
17-12-2017, 07:43
I feel the same as you, I liked PC1 FFB much better, can't get rid of that notchy feeling at some tracks.

Yes it's all about that horrible notchy feeling and it's definitely not there in any of my other racing games.

Do you also have that feeling of "late momentum" or "input lag" when trying to catch a slide?
It's not visual but it's very noticeable when you are trying to warm up the tyres. (F1 style)

I almost got rid of that "input-lag-feeling" after setting my Steering Sensitivity to 85 or above, but it's not the best solution as the cars become hard to handle on the straights.

I wonder if you have the same feeling as we got nearly the same setup?

EDIT: Btw - Hi from Denmark my Swedish friend! :p

Ixoye56
18-12-2017, 01:13
I wonder if you have the same feeling as we got nearly the same setup?

EDIT: Btw - Hi from Denmark my Swedish friend! :p,

Yes my Danish frind I have experiense the same feelings, I really hope they will come up with a fix for these annoying problem.

RobPhoboS
27-12-2017, 18:39
Any update on your settings guys?
I had a mate over that's got a gt3 rs 4lt and Speciale (Spaz, that's not been on track yet), so we tried to tinker a bit more to get a more 'realistic' feel.
I'm still messing around though.

RobPhoboS
31-12-2017, 13:14
So this is what it's on at the moment:

Informative
65
28
70
55

Both volume and tone are mapped to the button box, so they do sometimes vary up/down.
And I'm testing between 540 and 900 rotation.

I found a setting in forza 7 that has really made a huge difference in controlling and having fun with the cars. So I'm now trying to replicate that in Pc2.

RobPhoboS
01-01-2018, 19:03
Aaannd I changed it again !


I was getting frustrated that Forza 7 was more controllable in comparison but now I think I finally have something that gives me confidence.


900 Deg rotation

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4688/25564679998_a4a4b153d0_b.jpg


So once again I dial up/down the Volume for steering weight and self centering (with this Tone setting), and same with FX if you want more/less bumps.
If you put Tone down the other end you'll feel the understeer traction loss (best way I can describe it) but Tone at this end seems about right.


Configuration Menu:
Steering Sensitivity = 100
Speed Sensitivity = 20 (sometimes I get wandering on the straights so may increase this)

I've tried a few cars and it seems good, any cars that don't have just need a few tweaks to the setup of that car.

NOTE: if you don't like that feeling, turn tone down to 10-20 and increase your volume a little if required. See what you think.

It's one of those things that reading through some great threads has helped explain more than the boxes on the right.
What SMS could do in the future is change/update the wording for each setting in the help box, depending on the Flavour chosen because I believe they react differently from each other.

When it's set to RAW with the TX wheel it's not right at all imho, you've suddenly lost a bunch of things that I don't think this kind of wheel can reproduce from that Flavour.

Zebulonium
20-01-2018, 09:17
Hello everyone, do you know if ffb is better on the PC version?

Zebulonium
20-01-2018, 10:53
Hello everyone, do you know if ffb is better on the PC version?

Zaskarspants
20-01-2018, 11:14
I strongly suggest that people avoid immersive if you want to feel subtle tyre slip and braking through the ffb.

Informative and raw give similar complete ffb signals with informative slightly ' louder'.

Immersive in my view should be titled ' arcade' as it presents a very blunt and at times violent output that appears to be attempting to use the wheel to give an impression of the g forces you expirience rather then the steering and tyre information.

Cholton82
22-01-2018, 11:30
Not sure if this will help as I'm on the T300 on the Xbox 1x but I changed the master settings on the wheel with it connected to a laptop , I raised gain from 75 to 100 and lowered it in game from 100 down to 85 and I get smoother feedback with no notchiness . I'm using RAW but off the top of my head I cant remeber the others.

RobPhoboS
25-01-2018, 12:38
I strongly suggest that people avoid immersive if you want to feel subtle tyre slip and braking through the ffb.

Informative and raw give similar complete ffb signals with informative slightly ' louder'.

Immersive in my view should be titled ' arcade' as it presents a very blunt and at times violent output that appears to be attempting to use the wheel to give an impression of the g forces you expirience rather then the steering and tyre information.


I still say avoid RAW on this wheel base.
I switched to Informative a few days after I posted that pic, and forgot to update it.
Otherwise the settings are roughly the same.

nissan4ever
25-01-2018, 15:18
Not sure if this will help as I'm on the T300 on the Xbox 1x but I changed the master settings on the wheel with it connected to a laptop , I raised gain from 75 to 100 and lowered it in game from 100 down to 85 and I get smoother feedback with no notchiness . I'm using RAW but off the top of my head I cant remeber the others.

No, that only has an effect if racing on a PC. Doesn't do anything while racing on the Xbox One consoles.

Cholton82
26-01-2018, 07:37
No, that only has an effect if racing on a PC. Doesn't do anything while racing on the Xbox One consoles.

Doesn't changing the master settings on the wheel have any effect on consoles then ? It definitely feels better after changing those and plugging it back in to the xbox.

nissan4ever
26-01-2018, 09:22
Doesn't changing the master settings on the wheel have any effect on consoles then ? It definitely feels better after changing those and plugging it back in to the xbox.

No, it doesn't. Only changes things if you're playing on a PC.

Cholton82
26-01-2018, 09:29
No, it doesn't. Only changes things if you're playing on a PC.

Pure placebo effect then , I didn't realise that and the best part is I have altered things and plugged it in and tried it and thought that it felt better previously so changed it back and was happy with it . I distinctly remember lowering gain in the game settings as it was or seemed far heavier.
Just to note I am using the T300 plugged through a drivehub and running on the Xbox .

RobPhoboS
26-02-2018, 13:39
How did you resolve that?

All I did was hold the wheel with both hands, clutch in and rev a little.

RobPhoboS
26-02-2018, 14:43
If there's any TX owners that would like to share their wheel settings for me to try I would be very appreciative.

I'll show a photo of all of my settings later for you.


This game really is worth getting an X for, if it's your main game.
I bought an X, TV, surround sound amp/speakers, racing seat, wheel, pedals, shifter, button box etc specifically for it.
Yes that's not normal of course but I was hopeful about it and it's delivering what I want for a console. Obviously not everyone can do that, and I did stretch myself budget wise too.

Hammerpgh
26-02-2018, 15:29
I'll show a photo of all of my settings later for you.


This game really is worth getting an X for, if it's your main game.
I bought an X, TV, surround sound amp/speakers, racing seat, wheel, pedals, shifter, button box etc specifically for it.
Yes that's not normal of course but I was hopeful about it and it's delivering what I want for a console. Obviously not everyone can do that, and I did stretch myself budget wise too.

Many thanks Rob much appreciated.

I have been considering the possibility of a bit of a trade-in to get an X but it's still a bit out of reach as things stand so i'll be sticking with the XBO for the foreseeable. I still race other titles as well but I am sure the X would benefit those just as much if I could go that route.

As things stand I am fairly content with the game if all combinations of cars and tracks prove the same as Nurburgring was with up to 15 AI. I will get plenty of fun racing out of it with that number and if multiplayer is improved then it will be better still.

RobPhoboS
28-02-2018, 08:08
Hammerpgh:
Sorry I forgot to do it, and last night I couldn't remember which thread you posted on. Heh.
Ill do it this evening!

Hammerpgh
28-02-2018, 08:57
Hammerpgh:
Sorry I forgot to do it, and last night I couldn't remember which thread you posted on. Heh.
Ill do it this evening!

Cheers mate. No problem I'm not going anywhere and check here throughout each day (keeps me sane at work lol).

RobPhoboS
28-02-2018, 10:17
Cheers amte. No problem I'm not going anywhere and check here throughout each day (keeps me sane at work lol).

I don't recommend RAW btw, not for this wheel.

I think I can remember them:


Flavour =Informative
Gain = 95
Volume = 5-35 (depending on car, usually around 20)
Tone = 80-90 (I think it's at 90 at the moment)
FX = 30


In the other menu I've reset the sliders, and only adjusted the clutch slightly and now the brake pedal because I'm using a different BBJ (blue) rubber conical pedal thingy.

I went about the settings in the completely wrong way, which is why it's taken me soo long to get them how I like. The good thing from that is that I understand them now from messing around.

Previously I had adjusted the steering sensitivity, dialling that back to 50 last night, oh nooow I can control oversteer better :D
Same with the steering ratio (per car), I had stupidly put most cars to around 8, which once again was daft, just leave them alone unless it's for a specific twisty track.

Hammerpgh
28-02-2018, 10:38
I don't recommend RAW btw, not for this wheel.

I think I can remember them:


Flavour =Informative
Gain = 95
Volume = 5-35 (depending on car, usually around 20)
Tone = 80-90 (I think it's at 90 at the moment)
FX = 30


In the other menu I've reset the sliders, and only adjusted the clutch slightly and now the brake pedal because I'm using a different BBJ (blue) rubber conical pedal thingy.

I went about the settings in the completely wrong way, which is why it's taken me soo long to get them how I like. The good thing from that is that I understand them now from messing around.

Previously I had adjusted the steering sensitivity, dialling that back to 50 last night, oh nooow I can control oversteer better :D
Same with the steering ratio (per car), I had stupidly put most cars to around 8, which once again was daft, just leave them alone unless it's for a specific twisty track.

Many thanks Rob, much appreciated :)

I'll give these a go when i'm next on... hopefully tonight.

So just to confirm the settings in the area where you set sensitivity, etc. you've got at the default values except for clutch (which I don't have anyway).

I must admit that I also usually dial down the ratio but only to about 11.0:1 as I find it at the default means I have to turn the wheel too far but i'll leave it as you suggest and see how I fare. Maybe I just have to get used to it that way.

RobPhoboS
28-02-2018, 11:15
Many thanks Rob, much appreciated :)

I'll give these a go when i'm next on... hopefully tonight.

So just to confirm the settings in the area where you set sensitivity, etc. you've got at the default values except for clutch (which I don't have anyway).

I must admit that I also usually dial down the ratio but only to about 11.0:1 as I find it at the default means I have to turn the wheel too far but i'll leave it as you suggest and see how I fare. Maybe I just have to get used to it that way.

Yeah with the ratio I'm leaving it stock for now, unless it's a short wheel base car then I may adjust it to a lower value.
10-16 is a fair ball park depending on the car.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not a top driver by any stretch at all. However I'm loving that I'm becoming more comfortable with correcting the oversteer because once you're in a race and you make a mistake, knowing that you can hopefully save it is reassuring to say the least.

Of course this is depending on what car you are driving but I've settled on these settings for a few weeks now.


I also have the brake pedal sensitivity at 65% but that is because I'm getting used to the BBJ conical mod but you don't need to worry about that.

One thing you can also try IF you don't like my setting.
Turn the Tone value to the opposite end of the scale, to approximately 15%. Then turn up the Volume to 30%.
You'll get a different sensation for understeer this way but I can't figure out if I prefer a high or low Tone value yet.
:chuncky:

Hammerpgh
28-02-2018, 13:50
I don't recommend RAW btw, not for this wheel.

I think I can remember them:


Flavour =Informative
Gain = 95
Volume = 5-35 (depending on car, usually around 20)
Tone = 80-90 (I think it's at 90 at the moment)
FX = 30


In the other menu I've reset the sliders, and only adjusted the clutch slightly and now the brake pedal because I'm using a different BBJ (blue) rubber conical pedal thingy.

I went about the settings in the completely wrong way, which is why it's taken me soo long to get them how I like. The good thing from that is that I understand them now from messing around.

Previously I had adjusted the steering sensitivity, dialling that back to 50 last night, oh nooow I can control oversteer better :D
Same with the steering ratio (per car), I had stupidly put most cars to around 8, which once again was daft, just leave them alone unless it's for a specific twisty track.

Yeah with the ratio I'm leaving it stock for now, unless it's a short wheel base car then I may adjust it to a lower value.
10-16 is a fair ball park depending on the car.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not a top driver by any stretch at all. However I'm loving that I'm becoming more comfortable with correcting the oversteer because once you're in a race and you make a mistake, knowing that you can hopefully save it is reassuring to say the least.

Of course this is depending on what car you are driving but I've settled on these settings for a few weeks now.


I also have the brake pedal sensitivity at 65% but that is because I'm getting used to the BBJ conical mod but you don't need to worry about that.

One thing you can also try IF you don't like my setting.
Turn the Tone value to the opposite end of the scale, to approximately 15%. Then turn up the Volume to 30%.
You'll get a different sensation for understeer this way but I can't figure out if I prefer a high or low Tone value yet.
:chuncky:

Thanks for those settings Rob.

I'll give everything you suggest a test as soon as I am able (tonight hopefully) and report back my findings. One thing though. I see that you have the FX set at 30. Previously when I've had that set at anything above about 15-20 I get that odd jerking effect of the wheel for no apparent reason, it's really bad if I move that up to 50+. Maybe in combination with the other settings you have it negates that. I hope so anyway. If not it's weird why with the same wheel the settings do not produce the same results.

Cheers again.

Robhd
03-03-2018, 16:03
Post patch its just appaling sadly!

I think there are a lot of us beng driven mad by this wheel juddering, jolting and shaking... If any settings guru has really found the answer for the TX i am sure i am not the only one who could really, really use the help right now..

The discussion on when a game is considered 'broken' has gone around and round like a dog chasings its own tail, suffice then to say right now post patch it is a pretty unpleasant experience for some /many (?) of us wheel users...

In fact, as an after thought would it be a good idea to create a specific area on the forum for controllers, with sections for pad / wheel then sub sections for specific manufacturers / models.. Hopefully this would focus discussion feedback and make it easier for newbies and those seeking help and knowledge sharing... Just a thought

Hammerpgh
03-03-2018, 16:25
I think that post of Konan's was from when we started discussing the FFB in the patch thread so I'm sure we are good to be discussing it here.

Konan
03-03-2018, 16:30
Yup...deleted the obsolete posts and edited Robhd's post accordingly...

Hammerpgh
03-03-2018, 16:35
I don't recommend RAW btw, not for this wheel.

I think I can remember them:


Flavour =Informative
Gain = 95
Volume = 5-35 (depending on car, usually around 20)
Tone = 80-90 (I think it's at 90 at the moment)
FX = 30


In the other menu I've reset the sliders, and only adjusted the clutch slightly and now the brake pedal because I'm using a different BBJ (blue) rubber conical pedal thingy.

I went about the settings in the completely wrong way, which is why it's taken me soo long to get them how I like. The good thing from that is that I understand them now from messing around.

Previously I had adjusted the steering sensitivity, dialling that back to 50 last night, oh nooow I can control oversteer better :D
Same with the steering ratio (per car), I had stupidly put most cars to around 8, which once again was daft, just leave them alone unless it's for a specific twisty track.

I gave your settings a good run out over the last couple of days @RobPhoboS and initially I wasn't sure about them as the wheel just felt too light for me. However I decided to persevere with them and not start chopping and changing until I had a good understanding of what your settings gave me. I'm happy to say that now especially after yesterday's session I am pretty happy with how the wheel feels. Road and kerb feel is definitely much better with these settings and I have a better idea through the wheel of what the car is doing. I did drop the DoR from 960 to 540 mainly for the GT3 cars as I just couldn't get the car turned in properly with the greater range. Strangely the feel also seemed better once I had done that but I'm sure it was just in my mind lol.

I'll stick with them as they are for a while longer before I look at tweaking any more to see if I can find a little more oomph from the FFB but if not I'm quite happy with how they are.

Cheers buddy.

Robhd
03-03-2018, 18:43
I have been experimenting with the FFB settings today and had got to the point where i had dialled out the horrible jolting and juddering only for them to reappear halfway through a race on the same circuit (Spa) as i had been experimenting in... Particularly bad on the bottm of the start finsh straight lesding to the bottom of Eau Rouge and again at the end of the long straight after Eau Rouge...

Doesn't matter if its Raw, immersive or informative it just appears...

If this was the real world your crew would be screaming for you to pit or retire.. But i have checked my rig.. Nope, no damage there, TX and pedals... Nope working fine on other games .. Xbox... Check, fine...Oh. Must be the game thats b@oken.. Oh no! Not that word... Why, hush my dirty mouth...

Robhd
04-03-2018, 09:13
Okay... I went back to the drawing board (again).... Lol!

I now suspect the root cause of (some) of the issues i have had have been down to me, my own ineptituide and not the game...doh!

I went back and recalibrated my TX wheel but making sure i never went past the soft lock... This meant I didn't get past around 96 - 97% on the screen readout for full lock BUT when i came to test again at Spa with the Ginetta the horrible shakes and shudders had gone with the added bonus of getting a real weight feel to the wheel... Sure, the bumps on the approach down to Eau Rouge are still there, and unsettle the car as I am sure they are meant to but now they don't trigger that awful sawing and shuddering...

I will try a couple of proper full races later, but fingers crossed eh!

Robhd
04-03-2018, 13:32
Nope! Its not the wheel calibration... And this jolting and juddering comes back no matter...

On the long Spa straight just try taking your hands off the wheel... It thrashes violently from side to side wheras what should happen of course is that the car should just follow the natural camber of the road... Does it heck as like!

Any mechanic that let a car out on track that behaved like that would br gone... Oh, no he wouldn't.. Because such a vehicle would never get past scrutineering in the first place...

Something is intrinsically very wrong here and I don't believe it can be dialled out with tinkering... In its current incarnation at least the game on xbox is playable, after a fashion, but to claim it is a simulation of a real driving experience is frankly, as it stands today... Laughable!

However, I do have faith the devs will be on this... I just don't see how such a deep flaw in the driving experience got through scrutineering... I mean testing...lol

Juiced46
04-03-2018, 14:35
Nope! Its not the wheel calibration... And this jolting and juddering comes back no matter...

On the long Spa straight just try taking your hands off the wheel... It thrashes violently from side to side wheras what should happen of course is that the car should just follow the natural camber of the road... Does it heck as like!

Any mechanic that let a car out on track that behaved like that would br gone... Oh, no he wouldn't.. Because such a vehicle would never get past scrutineering in the first place...

Something is intrinsically very wrong here and I don't believe it can be dialled out with tinkering... In its current incarnation at least the game on xbox is playable, after a fashion, but to claim it is a simulation of a real driving experience is frankly, as it stands today... Laughable!

However, I do have faith the devs will be on this... I just don't see how such a deep flaw in the driving experience got through scrutineering... I mean testing...lol

What firmware are you running on the TX and why are you taking your hands off the wheel? Do you experience this jolting when your hands are on the wheel?

Maskmagog
04-03-2018, 15:08
Recalibrated wheel as per above, and didn't push the wheel to get it from 96 to 100. Did three short quick races, and beginning of races (T1 + following straight) I got the same violent shaking. Then it calmed down, and was ok the rest of the race. Will test more when I get the time. This with RAW, 100, 65, 55, 65 or something similar. So FX quite high, around 65.

Edit: Firmware 51. 13-15 AI, Oulton Park International, Red Bull Ring, Ginetta GT5.

Robhd
04-03-2018, 15:18
What firmware are you running on the TX and why are you taking your hands off the wheel? Do you experience this jolting when your hands are on the wheel?

I have latest firmware. I am taking my hands off because you can feel the wheel twisting, but you don't realise how skewed this is unless you let go of the wheel and watch how manic it becomes.. Others have worried it could be a wheel breaker it is that pronounced.

Robhd
04-03-2018, 15:19
Its really sad and very frustrating... The potential in this game is just huge!

If it was at all possible i would remove the current patch and go with what we had before, it wasn't that great overall but at least the cars were drivable then...sigh!

Juiced46
04-03-2018, 16:07
I have latest firmware. I am taking my hands off because you can feel the wheel twisting, but you don't realise how skewed this is unless you let go of the wheel and watch how manic it becomes.. Others have worried it could be a wheel breaker it is that pronounced.

Have you tried V50 Firmware? My TX ran great with V50. Many reported issues once they switched to V51

Robhd
04-03-2018, 17:54
Have you tried V50 Firmware? My TX ran great with V50. Many reported issues once they switched to V51

Thanks, i will give thst a go...

Juiced46
04-03-2018, 19:30
Thanks, i will give thst a go...

Let me know how that goes.

Also, I would always calibrate to 100 and go past the soft lock and did not have issues. Which Xbox console are you on and is it a disc or download version of the game?

RobPhoboS
05-03-2018, 07:41
Multiple posts saying DON'T USE V51 ON THE TX.

And RAW isn't for this level of wheel, you'll be chasing your tail unless you luckily stumble across a setting for it.
Of course I get that you are trying to stop it going mad but my one doesn't and hasn't since v1.4 of Pc2. So not everyone has the same problem as some of you.

Shoemaker
05-03-2018, 10:33
Is anbody able to upload or share Tx software V50 ?? I asked Thrustmaster but they are useless. Seems like everyone says v50 is the best. Someone please share v50.

Hammerpgh
05-03-2018, 11:19
Nope! Its not the wheel calibration... And this jolting and juddering comes back no matter...

On the long Spa straight just try taking your hands off the wheel... It thrashes violently from side to side wheras what should happen of course is that the car should just follow the natural camber of the road... Does it heck as like!

Any mechanic that let a car out on track that behaved like that would br gone... Oh, no he wouldn't.. Because such a vehicle would never get past scrutineering in the first place...

Something is intrinsically very wrong here and I don't believe it can be dialled out with tinkering... In its current incarnation at least the game on xbox is playable, after a fashion, but to claim it is a simulation of a real driving experience is frankly, as it stands today... Laughable!

However, I do have faith the devs will be on this... I just don't see how such a deep flaw in the driving experience got through scrutineering... I mean testing...lol

That's strange Rob because I do not get this using your settings (you are still using those?). I'll have to double check to make sure I didn't dial down the FX slightly as I know from the tests I did that anything above about 20 was causing this mad wheel behavior. I haven't been back in the game this weekend due to preparations for league racing in another title but i'll get back to some more testing this week.

Maskmagog
05-03-2018, 11:24
And RAW isn't for this level of wheel
In Yorkie’s FFB video, he’s using RAW with T300, so it’s quite possible to use it. T300 is PS4 equivalent of TX, iiuc.
I will look for firmware 50 and see if it makes any difference.

Hammerpgh
05-03-2018, 11:25
Can I just ask a quick question about the wheel calibration while I think of it. The instruction in the game I think is a bit vague (a carry over from pCars 1 too) with regards to what you do at step 2 after you have done the full lock step. It says to turn the wheel to 90 degrees but is that from it's original position or from the full lock position? I guess it must be the former. I have read several places indicating you should just turn it until you get to 940 to mirror the DoR of the TX. Is this the best method for the wheels calibration.

Shoemaker
05-03-2018, 11:38
You can use raw. You just shouldn’t. Raw is feeling absolutely everything, including all the things that you dont feel through wheels like stopping forces. Raw is not an accurate representation of what a driver feels, immersive is. Immersive gives you all of the information a driver feels in a wheel and the wheel only. Much more detailed and realistic. I found it to be the best setting for the Tx and sms also say its the setup you ‘should’ run for the most realistic experience.

RoccoTTS
05-03-2018, 11:51
You can use raw. You just shouldn’t. Raw is feeling absolutely everything, including all the things that you dont feel through wheels like stopping forces. Raw is not an accurate representation of what a driver feels, immersive is. Immersive gives you all of the information a driver feels in a wheel and the wheel only. Much more detailed and realistic. I found it to be the best setting for the Tx and sms also say its the setup you ‘should’ run for the most realistic experience.

You are wrong. The following are discriptions from the official digital manual :


Immersive tries to give you as much information as possible, including all the information you normally wouldn't feel through the wheel.


Raw is the option for drivers striving for the purest feel, an unfiltered signal that emulates what you would feel in a real car.

Shoemaker
05-03-2018, 11:53
Informative?

RoccoTTS
05-03-2018, 11:56
Informative?

Something in between.

You can use every flavour with the TX wheel, it's just personal preferences.

Zaskarspants
05-03-2018, 12:03
You can use raw. You just shouldn’t. Raw is feeling absolutely everything, including all the things that you dont feel through wheels like stopping forces. Raw is not an accurate representation of what a driver feels, immersive is. Immersive gives you all of the information a driver feels in a wheel and the wheel only. Much more detailed and realistic. I found it to be the best setting for the Tx and sms also say its the setup you ‘should’ run for the most realistic experience.

This is not good advice imho.

Immersive is the least likely to give you nuanced and detailed feedback but aims to give a very dramatic presentation communicating the g force drama of being thrown around the car by using the wheel forces to give you that feeling. I find it very difficult to 'sense' the road with this flavour but it is exciting to use.

Raw - all the forces are uncompressed so this flavour can feel to weak to some on low torque wheels ( most of us use these), but all the detail is there.

Informative - very much like raw but subtle slip forces are boosted so this is often preferred on lower end wheels.

I use raw as I value detail over strength of ffb.

Shoemaker
05-03-2018, 12:18
This is not good advice imho.

Immersive is the least likely to give you nuanced and detailed feedback but aims to give a very dramatic presentation communicating the g force drama of being thrown around the car by using the wheel forces to give you that feeling. I find it very difficult to 'sense' the road with this flavour but it is exciting to use.

Raw - all the forces are uncompressed so this flavour can feel to weak to some on low torque wheels ( most of us use these), but all the detail is there.

Informative - very much like raw but subtle slip forces are boosted so this is often preferred on lower end wheels.

I use raw as I value detail over strength of ffb.i read different. Is there a definitive guide from sms ? They wrote the game but i think there should be list of wheels, together with what wheel firmware and what the recommended settings are. At least with recommended settings, we would have a baseline to work from and anything from baseline settings is just down to personal preference. Everyones just guessing. Need to know the exact wheel settings, you and i do not know how it ‘should’ feel as we have not raced them in real life nor did we code the game.

Hammerpgh
05-03-2018, 13:04
Nope! Its not the wheel calibration... And this jolting and juddering comes back no matter...

On the long Spa straight just try taking your hands off the wheel... It thrashes violently from side to side wheras what should happen of course is that the car should just follow the natural camber of the road... Does it heck as like!

Any mechanic that let a car out on track that behaved like that would br gone... Oh, no he wouldn't.. Because such a vehicle would never get past scrutineering in the first place...

Something is intrinsically very wrong here and I don't believe it can be dialled out with tinkering... In its current incarnation at least the game on xbox is playable, after a fashion, but to claim it is a simulation of a real driving experience is frankly, as it stands today... Laughable!

However, I do have faith the devs will be on this... I just don't see how such a deep flaw in the driving experience got through scrutineering... I mean testing...lol


That's strange Rob because I do not get this using your settings (you are still using those?). I'll have to double check to make sure I didn't dial down the FX slightly as I know from the tests I did that anything above about 20 was causing this mad wheel behavior. I haven't been back in the game this weekend due to preparations for league racing in another title but i'll get back to some more testing this week.
I popped home lunchtime for a quick test of this and took the Ferrari 488 out at Spa with a max grid size of 29 AI and I didn't have this issue using your settings Rob. There was a slight wobble after Eau Rouge and a little around Blanchimont but nothing more than I would expect. What car did you experience this in?

Juiced46
05-03-2018, 13:06
Is anbody able to upload or share Tx software V50 ?? I asked Thrustmaster but they are useless. Seems like everyone says v50 is the best. Someone please share v50.

Ill see if I have it on my laptop. What is your email?

Can I just ask a quick question about the wheel calibration while I think of it. The instruction in the game I think is a bit vague (a carry over from pCars 1 too) with regards to what you do at step 2 after you have done the full lock step. It says to turn the wheel to 90 degrees but is that from it's original position or from the full lock position? I guess it must be the former. I have read several places indicating you should just turn it until you get to 940 to mirror the DoR of the TX. Is this the best method for the wheels calibration.

You calibrate it 90 degrees from center postion. So after you go full lock. Go back to centered and go 90 degrees right or left

Shoemaker
05-03-2018, 13:10
Ill see if I have it on my laptop. What is your email?


You calibrate it 90 degrees from center postion. So after you go full lock. Go back to centered and go 90 degrees right or leftHave pm’d you my email. Much appreciated thankyou

Juiced46
05-03-2018, 14:10
Have pm’d you my email. Much appreciated thankyou

I will check when I get out of work around 6est.

Robhd
06-03-2018, 15:34
I popped home lunchtime for a quick test of this and took the Ferrari 488 out at Spa with a max grid size of 29 AI and I didn't have this issue using your settings Rob. There was a slight wobble after Eau Rouge and a little around Blanchimont but nothing more than I would expect. What car did you experience this in?

This is the Ginetta G40... It isn't great at all... I would have thought the FFb would have been designed to be consistent throughout the game rather than yet another variable for each and every car, or have i got that wrong?

Zaskarspants
06-03-2018, 15:42
This is the Ginetta G40... It isn't great at all... I would have thought the FFb would have been designed to be consistent throughout the game rather than yet another variable for each and every car, or have i got that wrong?

Yes I think you may be mistaken.
The ffb of the different cars is designed to feel different, just as they look and sound different, reflecting variations in real cars.

I have also noticed that the ffb of a car changes with set up changes as you might expect.

Robhd
06-03-2018, 19:55
Yes I think you may be mistaken.
The ffb of the different cars is designed to feel different, just as they look and sound different, reflecting variations in real cars.

I have also noticed that the ffb of a car changes with set up changes as you might expect.

It would be really nice if SMS actually said this is how it all works and altering X Y or Z is going to have such and such an impact... It all feels a bit smoke and mirrors to me... I don't mean the car set up end of the game, thats fair enough, but the FFB has become so distracting, i just want to play a great game and it to be an enjoyable experience, i haven't even bothered downloading the new DLC today, i feel, like whats the point at the moment...

Zaskarspants
06-03-2018, 20:05
It would be really nice if SMS actually said this is how it all works and altering X Y or Z is going to have such and such an impact... It all feels a bit smoke and mirrors to me... I don't mean the car set up end of the game, thats fair enough, but the FFB has become so distracting, i just want to play a great game and it to be an enjoyable experience, i haven't even bothered downloading the new DLC today, i feel, like whats the point at the moment...

I also find pcars bewildering at times, but that for me is also it's fascination and what keeps me from any other game.

It is a simulation and cars are complicated and the game reflects this.

Having said that it is quite possible to be fast without changing set ups so I suggest just using a default setting, loose for wheels and stable for a controller. I have fourth the TT at oulton park with the ginetta G58 on a default set up.

As for ffb it is really quite easy to get to grips with and there is much good info on the forum from other racers. I would hate the ffb for each car to be the same much as I wouldn't want the cars to sound the same.

Hammerpgh
08-03-2018, 11:31
I still think that the FFB should have some consistency across the different cars. Of course the handling changes car to car and the setups effect cars differently but the wheel should be a consistent part across them all. A kerb should still feel like a kerb for example and there shouldn't be a need to tinker with the FFB settings each time you jump in a different car unless you are looking for something different.

That being said since using Rob's settings in the few cars I have driven I am finding the FFB much better and haven't changed them so far depending on what car I am in.

Zaskarspants
08-03-2018, 11:53
I still think that the FFB should have some consistency across the different cars. Of course the handling changes car to car and the setups effect cars differently but the wheel should be a consistent part across them all. A kerb should still feel like a kerb for example and there shouldn't be a need to tinker with the FFB settings each time you jump in a different car unless you are looking for something different.

That being said since using Rob's settings in the few cars I have driven I am finding the FFB much better and haven't changed them so far depending on what car I am in.

The FFB is very dynamic.

Kerbs for example may not be felt with every car, others can give a real jolt. Kerb sensation also depends on the design of that cars suspension and also how the wheel is loaded when hitting a kerb.

Many of the ffb issues raised on this site do appear from people who want the ffb to be ' the same ' as people suggest AC is across cars and differing surfaces / weather. I suggest this is to misunderstand the artistic and technical decisions that the pcars team have made regarding ffb.

Robhd
08-03-2018, 21:26
Yes I think you may be mistaken.
The ffb of the different cars is designed to feel different, just as they look and sound different, reflecting variations in real cars.

I have also noticed that the ffb of a car changes with set up changes as you might expect.

I have been thinking about this and I am now sure I was wrong... In PC1 Jack Spades had ffb for every car and they were brilliant... I just wish he had done the same for console users on PC2, but sadly I am no Jack Spades so i just seem to thrash around in the dark...

Fight-Test
10-03-2018, 11:50
I have been thinking about this and I am now sure I was wrong... In PC1 Jack Spades had ffb for every car and they were brilliant... I just wish he had done the same for console users on PC2, but sadly I am no Jack Spades so i just seem to thrash around in the dark...

You are correct. It's not balanced and Jack's pc2 settings come with a listing for each cars settings to correct this. Even the trofeo car has some curb and road feel now. Sucks we have to change for each car but its a must.

Juiced46
10-03-2018, 13:25
It would be really nice if SMS actually said this is how it all works and altering X Y or Z is going to have such and such an impact... It all feels a bit smoke and mirrors to me... I don't mean the car set up end of the game, thats fair enough, but the FFB has become so distracting, i just want to play a great game and it to be an enjoyable experience, i haven't even bothered downloading the new DLC today, i feel, like whats the point at the moment...

There are many threads, pictures, posts and Youtube videos explaining how FFB sliders work. I would suggest you look into that. It will help tons on understanding how to set it up.

Have you tried V50 Firmware for your TX yet? If not, you are just beating your head against the wall for no reason.

Shoemaker
10-03-2018, 14:21
There are many threads, pictures, posts and Youtube videos explaining how FFB sliders work. I would suggest you look into that. It will help tons on understanding how to set it up.

Have you tried V50 Firmware for your TX yet? If not, you are just beating your head against the wall for no reason. i downgraded my firmware from v51 to v50 and so far great. Still need a play with the sliders but feels good. Thanks for the file 👍

zzjorzz
10-03-2018, 15:08
Have you tried V50 Firmware for your TX yet? If not, you are just beating your head against the wall for no reason.

Why is that? So far I had no problems with V51. What problems should I expect with V51?

Juiced46
10-03-2018, 15:24
Why is that? So far I had no problems with V51. What problems should I expect with V51?

There were a bunch of users who were running V50 successfully but switched to V51. When they did this, that is when the problems started. Wheel shaking, jolting, loss of FFB etc. V50 seems to be the most reliable firmware. But with that being said, if V51 is working for you, I wouldn't mess with it. I had great success with V50 with no issue. The recommendation is solely for people that are on V51 that are having problems. But I also believe their issues may be settings and calibration problems as well. If you do not calibrate the wheel correctly (not going to 100 on calibration and on wheel sensitivity set wrong) along with multiple other things, this can cause problems as well. I actually ran my TX on RAW and had the best results.

Shoemaker
10-03-2018, 15:50
There were a bunch of users who were running V50 successfully but switched to V51. When they did this, that is when the problems started. Wheel shaking, jolting, loss of FFB etc. V50 seems to be the most reliable firmware. But with that being said, if V51 is working for you, I wouldn't mess with it. I had great success with V50 with no issue. The recommendation is solely for people that are on V51 that are having problems. But I also believe their issues may be settings and calibration problems as well. If you do not calibrate the wheel correctly (not going to 100 on calibration and on wheel sensitivity set wrong) along with multiple other things, this can cause problems as well. I actually ran my TX on RAW and had the best results.

What settings are you running your tx on now ? I have 100%ffb in the wheels inboard memory then in game i tried raw but couldn’t find that sweet spot before clipping.

Robhd
10-03-2018, 15:55
I was on v50 and still got jolting etc i have upgraded to v51.. Its just as bad.. I am convinced this is the game causng the issues not the wheels

Juiced46
10-03-2018, 16:03
What settings are you running your tx on now ? I have 100%ffb in the wheels inboard memory then in game i tried raw but couldn’t find that sweet spot before clipping.

I think I may have posted my settings in this thread somewhere. However, I switched to a full Fanatec setup since, so I do not remember.


I was on v50 and still got jolting etc i have upgraded to v51.. Its just as bad.. I am convinced this is the game causng the issues not the wheels

What are you running for settings?

What is you On wheel DOR and Sensitivity set to?

What are you running for IN Game settings? (i forget if you posted it in here or not)

Are you sure you are calibrating the wheel correctly? I read you stopped at 97-98. Turn wheel past the softlock to 100. Re center, then go 90 degrees right or left to calibrate correctly.

Sith Metal
10-03-2018, 21:38
my tx wheel is fine also, i have noticed it depends what car you drive, the Ginetta Juniors are full of FFB info from the car and track. Other race cars like the supercar V8 have a lighter response from the wheel?

Robhd
16-03-2018, 15:28
I think I may have posted my settings in this thread somewhere. However, I switched to a full Fanatec setup since, so I do not remember.



What are you running for settings?

What is you On wheel DOR and Sensitivity set to?

What are you running for IN Game settings? (i forget if you posted it in here or not)

Are you sure you are calibrating the wheel correctly? I read you stopped at 97-98. Turn wheel past the softlock to 100. Re center, then go 90 degrees right or left to calibrate correctly.

Wheel is set at 900 DOR

Have tried calibrating both to and past softlock... My TX only goes to 98/99 rammed hard against the stop, but i have taken it there and tried the calibration

As for in game settings well i have tried just about every conceivable combination, all with the same result - from about 100 50 5 5 to any variation... They either result in such a light wheel you may as well be floating on ice or its these horrible judders and oscilations... But it is not the wheel that is the issue! Other racing games AC, Forza etc run fine... Its PC2 post patch 4.0... Until patch 5.0 turns up there simply is no point, hence the question elsewhere, have they fixed the TX issues as well as the Fanatec in patch 5.0?

Or is it now sadly time to walk away?

Juiced46
16-03-2018, 15:34
Wheel is set at 900 DOR

Have tried calibrating both to and past softlock... My TX only goes to 98/99 rammed hard against the stop, but i have taken it there and tried the calibration

As for in game settings well i have tried just about every conceivable combination, all with the same result - from about 100 50 5 5 to any variation... They either result in such a light wheel you may as well be floating on ice or its these horrible judders and oscilations... But it is not the wheel that is the issue! Other racing games AC, Forza etc run fine... Its PC2 post patch 4.0... Until patch 5.0 turns up there simply is no point, hence the question elsewhere, have they fixed the TX issues as well as the Fanatec in patch 5.0?

Or is it now sadly time to walk away?

What is your ON WHEEL sensitivity set to?

What flavor?

Are you calibrating the 90 degrees properly?

Are you turning the wheel 90 degrees or turning it to when the screen says 90?

fmbill
16-03-2018, 15:54
Wheel is set at 900 DOR

Have tried calibrating both to and past softlock... My TX only goes to 98/99 rammed hard against the stop, but i have taken it there and tried the calibration

As for in game settings well i have tried just about every conceivable combination, all with the same result - from about 100 50 5 5 to any variation... They either result in such a light wheel you may as well be floating on ice or its these horrible judders and oscilations... But it is not the wheel that is the issue! Other racing games AC, Forza etc run fine... Its PC2 post patch 4.0... Until patch 5.0 turns up there simply is no point, hence the question elsewhere, have they fixed the TX issues as well as the Fanatec in patch 5.0?

Or is it now sadly time to walk away?

On the 1x, I don't share your softlock problem, but the other symptoms come and go. The snap around is always waiting to happen out of nowhere, so corners are always nervously questionable. It's not like I am pushing on a certain corner, it just snaps like only pc2 can. I've seen top streamers who are great drivers lose it out of nowhere. Tuning and ffb adjusting should, for the most part, be to get those extra tenths or adjust to our own style and feel, not to simply make the car drivable. No expert here, but it didn't seem to happen before the last patch. Even on the 1x, career, gt3 porche shaking horribly on the previously suggested "immersive" down opening straight. Have to switch to raw to not break my wheel. Basically, I get home from work and spend the whole evening making adjustments to get in one career race. Maybe, if I stay up late...

Juiced46
16-03-2018, 16:06
On the 1x, I don't share your softlock problem, but the other symptoms come and go. The snap around is always waiting to happen out of nowhere, so corners are always nervously questionable. It's not like I am pushing on a certain corner, it just snaps like only pc2 can. I've seen top streamers who are great drivers lose it out of nowhere. Tuning and ffb adjusting should, for the most part, be to get those extra tenths or adjust to our own style and feel, not to simply make the car drivable. No expert here, but it didn't seem to happen before the last patch. Even on the 1x, career, gt3 porche shaking horribly on the previously suggested "immersive" down opening straight. Have to switch to raw to not break my wheel. Basically, I get home from work and spend the whole evening making adjustments to get in one career race. Maybe, if I stay up late...

Have you tried Firmware V50? Plus Can you answer the previous questions I asked Rob in my last 2 posts?

Ixoye56
16-03-2018, 16:16
There were a bunch of users who were running V50 successfully but switched to V51. When they did this, that is when the problems started. Wheel shaking, jolting, loss of FFB etc. V50 seems to be the most reliable firmware. But with that being said, if V51 is working for you, I wouldn't mess with it. I had great success with V50 with no issue. The recommendation is solely for people that are on V51 that are having problems. But I also believe their issues may be settings and calibration problems as well. If you do not calibrate the wheel correctly (not going to 100 on calibration and on wheel sensitivity set wrong) along with multiple other things, this can cause problems as well. I actually ran my TX on RAW and had the best results.

V.50 and V.51 are basically the same firmware, the only difference is that V.51 have support for newer wheels, so if you have a TX, there is no benefit to upgrade at all.

fmbill
16-03-2018, 16:25
Juiced, I have the newest firmware update. I haven't tried regressing to 50 cuz it's, well, regressing...too stubborn and dumb. I have tried every flavor with umpteen variations and now go between immersive and raw. Since the last patch immersive is sorta intense and fun but kinda heavy and muddy, almost like it responds rather than initiates. Also the wheel can go wonky (term from my canadian friends) from time to time. Raw is cleaner but seems weaker than it was.
I usually stick with 900 as that is the default for the tx, I read somewhere.

Juiced46
16-03-2018, 16:25
V.50 and V.51 are basically the same firmware, the only difference is that V.51 have support for newer wheels, so if you have a TX, there is no benefit to upgrade at all.


The issue is. People had V50 and working fine. Switched to V51 and problems started...

Juiced46
16-03-2018, 16:29
Juiced, I have the newest firmware update. I haven't tried regressing to 50 cuz it's, well, regressing...too stubborn and dumb. I have tried every flavor with umpteen variations and now go between immersive and raw. Since the last patch immersive is sorta intense and fun but kinda heavy and muddy, almost like it responds rather than initiates. Also the wheel can go wonky (term from my canadian friends) from time to time. Raw is cleaner but seems weaker than it was.
I usually stick with 900 as that is the default for the tx, I read somewhere.

Switch to V50. Recalibrate properly. Start the game with the wheel, not the controller and let me know how you make out

fmbill
16-03-2018, 16:34
Juiced, Ok will try tonight. PDT

Ixoye56
16-03-2018, 16:41
Juiced, I have the newest firmware update. I haven't tried regressing to 50 cuz it's, well, regressing...too stubborn and dumb. I have tried every flavor with umpteen variations and now go between immersive and raw. Since the last patch immersive is sorta intense and fun but kinda heavy and muddy, almost like it responds rather than initiates. Also the wheel can go wonky (term from my canadian friends) from time to time. Raw is cleaner but seems weaker than it was.
I usually stick with 900 as that is the default for the tx, I read somewhere.

I have the same experience like you with the ffb, i think it is worse after patch 4, I will try some Raw settings tonight, anyone that have some settings to share?
Btw! I use v.50 and haven't even try v.51, so i don't think problems with ffb is firmware related, but I wish they had done the ffb more like in PC1 where you could set up each car individually.

Trudd
16-03-2018, 21:25
Well I quite like the settings I run right now (see below).
Likely too light steering force for most people. However I find it allows me to get a better feel for the car/road and faster more precise steering than I get with too much Gain/Volume.

I've tried to find settings that work with the most cars and tracks without having to change anything. When needed I can lower(!) and raise the Gain a bit for the few cars that needs it. So only changing one value, at most, when racing. Which is good.

Yes it may not always "feel" as great as I had wished for, but most of the time the result are great (compared to the skill level I'm at). I'm as safe and fast as I could expect to be (but perhaps not hoped to be).


Thrustmaster TX 599XX Evo 30 [Firmware V50] + T3PA Pedals | Patch: 4.0 FFB: Informative G: 45 V: 35 T: 45 F: 25 | FOV: 75 (correct ~40) [130cm to 42" screen] Wold Movement: 80 | Steering Sens: 55 Brake Sens: 45 Throttle Sens: 45 Throttle DeadZ: 25


I also had some time now testing my friends wheel and we have found that the below settings work very well there. Basically the same settings with higher Gain since it's a less powerful wheel.

Logitech G920 | Patch: 4.0 FFB: Informative G: 75 V: 35 T: 45 F: 25 | FOV: 75 (correct ~40) [~2m to 65" screen] Wold Movement: 100 | Steering Sens: 55 Brake Sens: 45 Throttle Sens: 45 Throttle DeadZ: 15

Robhd
17-03-2018, 09:32
What is your ON WHEEL sensitivity set to?

What flavor?

Are you calibrating the 90 degrees properly?

Are you turning the wheel 90 degrees or turning it to when the screen says 90?

I have tried both raw and immersive and both produce tye same effect

I calibrate to what the screen says and turn to what it tells me is 90 degrees

Sorry i don't understand the bit about the on wheel sensitivity? Whats that?

Much thanks for the help, it is really appreaciated, i truly adore this game but short of shooting my wheel i am stuck at the moment... Yup it is driving me a bit nuts as it is

Juiced46
17-03-2018, 12:34
I have tried both raw and immersive and both produce tye same effect

I calibrate to what the screen says and turn to what it tells me is 90 degrees

Sorry i don't understand the bit about the on wheel sensitivity? Whats that?

Much thanks for the help, it is really appreaciated, i truly adore this game but short of shooting my wheel i am stuck at the moment... Yup it is driving me a bit nuts as it is


I have a feeling you are calibrating the wheel incorrectly. You do not turn the wheel until the screen says 90. You actually need to turn the wheel 90 degrees. So from center, you would be 1/4 of a full rotation. That is 90 degrees. If DOR is set to 900. When your wheel as at 90 degrees, the screen will say 900. If you are turning it to when it says 90 thatis very very very wrong.

Next, On wheel sensitivity. By default, it is set to normal, but its possible you changed it and did not know it. To adjust on the wheel, you press the MODE button and the RIGHT Paddle shifter at the same time. The light will flash on the wheel. You want it to be 1 flash- Normal

1 Flash = Normal
2 Flashes= Sensitivity 2
3 Flashes= Sensitivity 3
4 Flahes= Sensitivity 4

Also verify your wheel is still set to 900 DOR on wheel. Its 900 by default. To change this you press the MODE button and LEFT Dpad on the wheel at the same time

1 Flash- 270 DOR
2 Flashes- 360 DOR
3 Flashes- 570DOR
4 Flashes- 900 DOR

Next, what settings do you have in the configuration menu? Did you mess with Damper saturation or any of that in the Pcars menu?

Try to recalibrate the way I explained, make sure your wheel is set correctly and try again. My TX always felt great on RAW. I am half tempted to pull it out of the box and set it back up just to prove a point lol

Robhd
17-03-2018, 13:44
Thanks Juiced... I am not back home until tomrrow, i will try checkng the sensitivity and yes i had set the wheel at 900 not 90 degrees

I have been usng the standard car settings as i didn't want to add yet another varable until i had got the wheel functioning well

I really do apprecate the feedback...

fishaac
17-03-2018, 15:01
I've read through this thread and some others and still can't find a solution to the notchy feeling this game gives with a TX. Every time I open this game I just waste valuable gaming time in the settings pages before turning to a different game.
I'd love to get it right because the potential is huge.
Does anyone out there feel that at this stage they've got the perfect base setting?

Juiced46
17-03-2018, 15:31
Thanks Juiced... I am not back home until tomrrow, i will try checkng the sensitivity and yes i had set the wheel at 900 not 90 degrees

I have been usng the standard car settings as i didn't want to add yet another varable until i had got the wheel functioning well

I really do apprecate the feedback...

No problem. I had some spare time this morning so I set my TX back up quick on a wheelstand since I do not want to break down my rig. Loaded up Pcars2 and ran some laps on Nurburgring GP with a GT3 Ferrari and some Formula X at Donington. Wheel worked great with no FFB settings changed. Ran on default 900DOR, Sens. 1 and in game RAW 100/50/50/50. No violent shaking, all FFB felt real good including curbs etc. This was on V50 Firmware through an Xbox One X.

Stupid question but have you tried any basic stuff like a new USB cable? Have you changed any settings in the wheel through the PC app by chance?

Here is a quick vid running down the straight on Nurburg GP in the Ferrari, no hands on wheel, no shaking.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HiOM4SH75OA

fmbill
17-03-2018, 15:31
Switch to V50. Recalibrate properly. Start the game with the wheel, not the controller and let me know how you make out

Did gt3 porche qualifying laps around road america with v50 and v51, no difference.

Juiced46
17-03-2018, 15:34
Did gt3 porche qualifying laps around road america with v50 and v51, no difference.

What symptoms are you having? I still have the TX hooked up for testing. I will run that track. How many cars during qualifying?

Juiced46
18-03-2018, 17:23
Here is another. GT3 Porsche on Road America. 15 AI, qualifying in Private Custom race. No violent shaking, FFB felt great.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MhBdGD6_gJM

Robhd
18-03-2018, 19:17
I have now tried altering the wheel sensitivity both with raw and immersive settngs ... On one flash i.e. Normal the wheel judders and swings fom lock to lock all the time, conversely on 4 flashes which is supposedly max sensitvity this only happens at certain points on a track...

If patch 5 doesn't fix this i think many wheel users may be abandoning the game wholesale as both thrustmaster and fanatec users seem to be having game rather than wheel specific issues

Juiced46
18-03-2018, 20:37
I have now tried altering the wheel sensitivity both with raw and immersive settngs ... On one flash i.e. Normal the wheel judders and swings fom lock to lock all the time, conversely on 4 flashes which is supposedly max sensitvity this only happens at certain points on a track...

If patch 5 doesn't fix this i think many wheel users may be abandoning the game wholesale as both thrustmaster and fanatec users seem to be having game rather than wheel specific issues

I dont know man, I do not agree with that statement at all. The Fanatec issue is much different. And it affects ALL V2.5 users. Its a known issue which is being addressed in the next patch. There are a select few users with Fanatec that say that particular issue is "gamebreaking" but I disagree. I just played 2 hours of my career and loved every sec of it on my Fanatec even though it has minor issues.

Your TX issue seems to be consolidated to a few users and not ALL. Which leads me to believe that there is something going on, on the users end and not particularly the game. However, I have tried to give suggestions but some questions went unanswered so I do not know what else to say. I hooked up my TX and posted the videos and I experienced NONE of the issues you guys are describing. Something is not quite right on your end I firmly believe.

Have you tried these things?
Different USB cable?
Deleting and reinstalling the game?(this has fixed issues for me)
Deleting your career from the console and cloud?(this has fixed issues for me)
Are you using old Pre patch vehicle setups?
Are you still on V50?
Have you reset the wheel to default settings using the PC application?
Are you using Instant on or Power save mode?
How do you start the game and sign in? Wheel or controller?
Is the wheel plugged in prior to booting up the Xbox?
You never answered my questions about your in game configuration screen settings...

All of these things can affect the wheel. The fact that you say your wheel is shaking from lock to lock and I have posted vids with no hands on the wheel and no shaking leads me to believe you have something going on your end and its not the game.

Robhd
18-03-2018, 20:58
If it is the wheel why is it fine in AC, forza, F1 2017?

I don't use instant on or power save on xbox as this is a known issue
I have tried v50 and v51 both are exactly the same
The issue is directly related to patch 4.0... It was not there prior but from the day that installed the issues appeared
I sign in through the wheel, as having a wheel and controller plugged in has been known to cause conflicts for others
Why would a usb cable work fine with every other game not this one?
Wheel is plugged in prior to booting console
Vehicle set ups are standard out of the box ... I wanted to keep the variables down as i worked my way through the issue
I haven't bothered with career mode as yet
Why would reinstalling from disc make a difference... If i do can i block this patch 4.0 update as it loads?

Juiced46
18-03-2018, 21:02
If it is the wheel why is it fine in AC, forza, F1 2017?

I don't use instant on or power save on xbox as this is a known issue
I have tried v50 and v51 both are exactly the same
The issue is directly related to patch 4.0... It was not there prior but from the day that installed the issues appeared
I sign in through the wheel, as having a wheel and controller plugged in has been known to cause conflicts for others
Why would a usb cable work fine with every other game not this one?
Wheel is plugged in prior to booting console
Vehicle set ups are standard out of the box ... I wanted to keep the variables down as i worked my way through the issue
I haven't bothered with career mode as yet
Why would reinstalling from disc make a difference... If i do can i block this patch 4.0 update as it loads?

You can either use Instant on or Power save. There is no other choice, its one or the other.
Keep it on V50
I am running patch 4 and had no issues with my TX. Maybe something went wrong with the patch install, it is VERY possible something went corrupt in the background during install. This is extremely common on software updates. Not just on Xbox, but on anything. That is why I said to try reinstalling the game. It CAN fix things. Why would mine work fine on Patch 4 and exhibit NONE of your issues? It sounds like something went wrong during the patch install......It wouldnt hurt to try....
No idea why the USB will work with other games but not this, but its something to rule out.
Deleting the complete PROFILE/SAVE can help. Try it. It fixed numerous issues on my end(helmet cam flicker and random game lockups). Since you have no career, you have nothing to lose other then some lost in game settings (take pictures of your settings before deleting)
People have had issues that were fixed by reinstalling the game.....
You cannot block the patch unless you install a disc copy OFFLINE. If you have a digital download. When you download, patch 4 is built into that download. Just delete the game. Delete the save from the console AND the cloud, reinstall with patch 4

You need try these things......

Robhd
18-03-2018, 21:12
I will give a fresh install a go... As you say can't hurt and delete saves etc before i do so... Will report back!

Have just uninstalled everything... It won't try and charge me again for my game packs will it?

Weirdly i did notice since patch 4 it kept telling me i didn't have the fun pack which i had actually bought on day of release...

I will try installing the patches and then downloading the dlc see if that helps?

Juiced46
18-03-2018, 21:13
I will give a fresh install a go... As you say can't hurt and delete saves etc before i do so... Will report back!

Good choice. Like I mentioned, delete the save from BOTH the console AND the cloud. It will give you an option when you select the save file in the game manage tab.

Maskmagog
18-03-2018, 21:39
I only have issues with shaking wheel in Ginetta GT5 career, but not all tracks, it seems. Brands Hatch was fine, others were not (Donington was terrible).
I've not had problems with the new Porsches, or Ligier LMP3, or Renault Clio Cup. Haven't tested much else. Passing the pits at Sugo in LMP3 created a short shaking, but nothing major.

RobPhoboS
18-03-2018, 22:20
If patch 5 doesn't fix this i think many wheel users may be abandoning the game wholesale as both thrustmaster and fanatec users seem to be having game rather than wheel specific issues

The TX works for most people (myself included).
Where is the proof of people abandoning it ?

fishaac: I'm still using my base settings that are totally fine for me, and just notch the volume up/down a touch depending on the car.

Ixoye56
18-03-2018, 22:46
I doesn't have any major problems with my TX, it is only at some bumpy tracks my steering wheel gives a jerky notchy feeling that I can't get rid of.

fishaac
19-03-2018, 08:00
Thanks Rob I'll give yours another whirl.

Juiced: Would you be so kind to email me v50 too? ☺
Fishaac@gmail.com.
I'd be eternally grateful

gmmiller
19-03-2018, 21:01
Please see my post in Thrustmaster TX wheel shaking when centered thread. I've spent a LOT of time on this issue including correctly calibrating the wheel for DOR other than 900 DOR. I still have one problem I DON'T have an answer for yet but working on Ginetta GT5 causing wheel shake in career mode. I believe it's related to the number of cars on the grid but still working it.

The reason deleting and reinstalling works is you inadvertantly blow out the bad memory buffer by doing this. Simply cold booting and reducing the grid size fixes most if not all these wheel shake problems except the Ginetta. There is an apparent problem on xbone supporting more than 16-18 cars since the 4 update causing havoc with the TX wheel force feedback. I have TX FFB equal to Assetto Corsa on xbone and I'll post my final settings later tonight. No, unfortunately the FFB will never be equal to the PC but pretty damn close.

OK here goes more testing results.

Cars used.

Ferrari 488 GT3. Pretty representative of the class.
Lotus 49C. What better car to test tire feel?
Indy Watson Roadster. Yep, strange choice but no suspension and 2 speed transmission and bicycle tires means it feels EVERYTHING!

Tracks used.

Every ancient track in the game and some modern ones. Bottom line is the old tracks had by far the best road feel and the modern tracks were all too smoothe.

Settings.

My wheel base is set at 900 DOR and calibrated to 270 DOR. Yep, I like fast steering!
All deadzones are 0 all sensitivities are 50.

FFB is RAW
Gain is 100
Volume, Tone and FX are 50
Menu spring strengh is .04 but doesn't matter.

Yep, I too was shocked 'cause isn't this default? I switched continually between Assetto Corsa and PC2 but since patch 4 PC2 was as close as you could get and actually PC2 has a better tire model than AC now. I DID have to futz around with Tone and FX to dial in a track but not a lot and most tracks were fine.

Only big change was the Indy roadster and that one Tone was 60 and FX was 30 because no suspension and 6" wide tires. Old Monza banking was especially brutal.

I've owned race cars and raced for over 60 years and no current sim FFB is even close to driving a Group C car or even your everyday car but they're getting much better.

I am still working on the Ginetta GT5 problem but it's beginning to look like just a bad Ginetta gt5 ffb model. Still would be a bug though.

Hammerpgh
20-03-2018, 13:47
Please see my post in Thrustmaster TX wheel shaking when centered thread. I've spent a LOT of time on this issue including correctly calibrating the wheel for DOR other than 900 DOR. I still have one problem I DON'T have an answer for yet but working on Ginetta GT5 causing wheel shake in career mode. I believe it's related to the number of cars on the grid but still working it.

The reason deleting and reinstalling works is you inadvertantly blow out the bad memory buffer by doing this. Simply cold booting and reducing the grid size fixes most if not all these wheel shake problems except the Ginetta. There is an apparent problem on xbone supporting more than 16-18 cars since the 4 update causing havoc with the TX wheel force feedback. I have TX FFB equal to Assetto Corsa on xbone and I'll post my final settings later tonight. No, unfortunately the FFB will never be equal to the PC but pretty damn close.

OK here goes more testing results.

Cars used.

Ferrari 488 GT3. Pretty representative of the class.
Lotus 49C. What better car to test tire feel?
Indy Watson Roadster. Yep, strange choice but no suspension and 2 speed transmission and bicycle tires means it feels EVERYTHING!

Tracks used.

Every ancient track in the game and some modern ones. Bottom line is the old tracks had by far the best road feel and the modern tracks were all too smoothe.

Settings.

My wheel base is set at 900 DOR and calibrated to 270 DOR. Yep, I like fast steering!
All deadzones are 0 all sensitivities are 50.

FFB is RAW
Gain is 100
Volume, Tone and FX are 50
Menu spring strengh is .04 but doesn't matter.

Yep, I too was shocked 'cause isn't this default? I switched continually between Assetto Corsa and PC2 but since patch 4 PC2 was as close as you could get and actually PC2 has a better tire model than AC now. I DID have to futz around with Tone and FX to dial in a track but not a lot and most tracks were fine.

Only big change was the Indy roadster and that one Tone was 60 and FX was 30 because no suspension and 6" wide tires. Old Monza banking was especially brutal.

I've owned race cars and raced for over 60 years and no current sim FFB is even close to driving a Group C car or even your everyday car but they're getting much better.

I am still working on the Ginetta GT5 problem but it's beginning to look like just a bad Ginetta gt5 ffb model. Still would be a bug though.

Good information buddy. I am pretty happy in the main with my TX settings (nicked from Robhd) apart from the odd multiplayer issues where I have to dial it all down considerably from when I am racing single player. That Fx setting is very high for me.. anytime I go over about 20 I get that really bad pendulum effect at parts of the track making the car almost uncontrollable.

I'll definitely check out your settings though and see how they feel for me.

Robhd
20-03-2018, 16:00
I have now tried completely uninstalling game and starting from scratch... Wheel still violently shakes from side to side... Iyet works fine in AC, Forza 7, F2017, Dirt etc etc... I think i'm done...

fmbill
20-03-2018, 18:45
Please see my post in Thrustmaster TX wheel shaking when centered thread. I've spent a LOT of time on this issue including correctly calibrating the wheel for DOR other than 900 DOR. I still have one problem I DON'T have an answer for yet but working on Ginetta GT5 causing wheel shake in career mode. I believe it's related to the number of cars on the grid but still working it.

The reason deleting and reinstalling works is you inadvertantly blow out the bad memory buffer by doing this. Simply cold booting and reducing the grid size fixes most if not all these wheel shake problems except the Ginetta. There is an apparent problem on xbone supporting more than 16-18 cars since the 4 update causing havoc with the TX wheel force feedback. I have TX FFB equal to Assetto Corsa on xbone and I'll post my final settings later tonight. No, unfortunately the FFB will never be equal to the PC but pretty damn close.

OK here goes more testing results.

Cars used.

Ferrari 488 GT3. Pretty representative of the class.
Lotus 49C. What better car to test tire feel?
Indy Watson Roadster. Yep, strange choice but no suspension and 2 speed transmission and bicycle tires means it feels EVERYTHING!

Tracks used.

Every ancient track in the game and some modern ones. Bottom line is the old tracks had by far the best road feel and the modern tracks were all too smoothe.

Settings.

My wheel base is set at 900 DOR and calibrated to 270 DOR. Yep, I like fast steering!
All deadzones are 0 all sensitivities are 50.

FFB is RAW
Gain is 100
Volume, Tone and FX are 50
Menu spring strengh is .04 but doesn't matter.

Yep, I too was shocked 'cause isn't this default? I switched continually between Assetto Corsa and PC2 but since patch 4 PC2 was as close as you could get and actually PC2 has a better tire model than AC now. I DID have to futz around with Tone and FX to dial in a track but not a lot and most tracks were fine.

Only big change was the Indy roadster and that one Tone was 60 and FX was 30 because no suspension and 6" wide tires. Old Monza banking was especially brutal.

I've owned race cars and raced for over 60 years and no current sim FFB is even close to driving a Group C car or even your everyday car but they're getting much better.

I am still working on the Ginetta GT5 problem but it's beginning to look like just a bad Ginetta gt5 ffb model. Still would be a bug though.

Funny, I rebooted xbox 1x, and installed my tx firmware back to v50 (which worked fine) then back to v51 (which now feels better...?). Now I find myself gravitating back to the default game ffb or close to it with good results. It's crazy, after so much testing and changing, it's hard to trust if I can even feel what is best any more...but I feel I can get back to fun racing a bit.

Robhd
22-03-2018, 15:23
Whilst i have been posting here my experiments with trying to resolve the ghastly FFB issues with my Thrustmaster TX since the last patch I have encountered a few suggestions that the wheel themselves are the issue for those experiencing problems and its the firmware, calibration, reinstall the game etc etc... Its not! Its the game..

Although I have really appreciated the help and suggestions to try, all have ended with the same issues remaining...

How do i know its the game?

Simple really, for all of you experiencing problems since the patch, if you have a copy of the original game PC1 load it up... Plays lovely, FFB perfect, no shuddering, jolting snapping from lock to lock... Just a lovely smooth drive with lots of detail and feel...

Your game is bust... Please fix it! Ta

Juiced46
22-03-2018, 15:46
PC1 has nothing to do with your issue. If the game is broken why are all these people posting success stories that its working fine?

RobPhoboS
22-03-2018, 16:22
Your game is bust... Please fix it! Ta


If the game is broken why are all these people posting success stories that its working fine?

Yep, this doesn't make ANY sense at all.
Please show us videos of the problem.

Juiced46
22-03-2018, 16:24
Yep, this doesn't make ANY sense at all.
Please show us videos of the problem.

Exactly what I am saying. I believe Rob may be dping something wrong on his end. I posted 2 videos post patch 4 of it working fine. Not saying Rob doesnt know what hes doing, but I believe something is being overlooked.

Robhd
22-03-2018, 16:52
Exactly what I am saying. I believe Rob may be dping something wrong on his end. I posted 2 videos post patch 4 of it working fine. Not saying Rob doesnt know what hes doing, but I believe something is being overlooked.

I really understand your bafflement but i am certainly not the only one who has posted regarding these issues, the wheel works exactly as it should in every other game but is simply insane in PC2... An earlier response to my posts was a dev saying they recognised the issue and 3 of them where tasked to finding the solution... I will wait it out..

gmmiller
22-03-2018, 20:57
I really understand your bafflement but i am certainly not the only one who has posted regarding these issues, the wheel works exactly as it should in every other game but is simply insane in PC2... An earlier response to my posts was a dev saying they recognised the issue and 3 of them where tasked to finding the solution... I will wait it out..

Robhd you are correct. There are several problems in this game affecting TX wheels since version 4 patch. I have documented several of them and don't try to say it affects ALL TX wheels but both my first production issue wheel and my month old since manufactured base both act the same with 3 xbones I've tested with there is most certainly game bugs. Hopefully there will be a fix soon and we can ALL get back to racing! You are NOT alone!

Juiced46
22-03-2018, 21:19
I really understand your bafflement but i am certainly not the only one who has posted regarding these issues, the wheel works exactly as it should in every other game but is simply insane in PC2... An earlier response to my posts was a dev saying they recognised the issue and 3 of them where tasked to finding the solution... I will wait it out..

I understand there are a few others with issues. But most people have it working. This is what leads me to believe you have an issue on your end. Unlike the Fanatec users problems, this seems intermittent for TX users. Where the Fanatec issue is for ALL users. The 3 devs that are working on a fix for patch 5 is for Fanatec.

I read you tried a fresh install of the game. But did you delete your save data from the system and cloud and start fresh with that as well? If you just deleted the game itself, the save file is still on the cloud.

The other thing that is strange in your case is you say you only see 98 when trying to calibrate the wheel and cannot get passed the soft lock to get you to 100. Not sure if that matters or not, but it just doesnt seem right. What are the wheel settings set to when you connect the TX to the PC and view the settings through the PC software?

Have you messed with things like damper saturation and such?

gmmiller
23-03-2018, 03:20
I understand there are a few others with issues. But most people have it working. This is what leads me to believe you have an issue on your end. Unlike the Fanatec users problems, this seems intermittent for TX users. Where the Fanatec issue is for ALL users. The 3 devs that are working on a fix for patch 5 is for Fanatec.

I read you tried a fresh install of the game. But did you delete your save data from the system and cloud and start fresh with that as well? If you just deleted the game itself, the save file is still on the cloud.

The other thing that is strange in your case is you say you only see 98 when trying to calibrate the wheel and cannot get passed the soft lock to get you to 100. Not sure if that matters or not, but it just doesnt seem right. What are the wheel settings set to when you connect the TX to the PC and view the settings through the PC software?

Have you messed with things like damper saturation and such?

None of the things you mentioned have anything to do with the problem with the TX and PC2. The testing I've done has been with both very early and latest TX bases. xbones are a developer platform and each of the three phases of xbones. I'm a test engineer by trade and have written tests to try and isolate what's going on using a usb analyzer to trace ffb commands. Since I don't have PC2 source code i can only look and trace output from previous to patch 4 and post patch results coming into the wheel and this definitely is a patch 4 problem and not the wheel. Many people are having post 4 ffb issues they didn't have before. Wheel calibration would only affect DOR and nothing else and I have given the reference to setup in my post. If ANY sim would cause these same TX problems it would be Assetto Corsa and it doesn't. FFB commands for EVERY sim are EXACTY the same except for values! This problem is squarly in PC2's court!

Why are you selling your TX wheel if it works and Fanatec doesn't? Logitech isn't even close to the TX quality.

Juiced46
23-03-2018, 09:51
Then explain to me why my TX works perfectly fine and for others as well. Since you are an engineer and I know nothing and the things I suggested do nothing. Can you explain to me why my videos prove its working? Im on patch 4 and the TX clearly works. If its a game problem, how is mine special? They all should be broken then.

I am selling my TX because I upgraded to Fanatec. The Fanatec issue will be fixed soon in Patch 5. Not only that, the Fanatec is not "broken" to where it is un-useable. I purchased the Fanatec stuff in Nov, prior to Patch 3 giving FFB issues. Im not selling the TX because it does not work like you are implying lol

Maskmagog
23-03-2018, 09:54
Juiced46, could you try Ginetta in career? That's where I've been having problems. Other cars seem fine, at least the ones I've tried.

Juiced46
23-03-2018, 10:04
Juiced46, could you try Ginetta in career? That's where I've been having problems. Other cars seem fine, at least the ones I've tried.

Sure can, any specific details I need to know like it only happens in a race and qual is ok? Or is it all the time

Maskmagog
23-03-2018, 10:48
Sure can, any specific details I need to know like it only happens in a race and qual is ok? Or is it all the time

Not sure, in bed having a fever right now.. In races for sure, although Brands Hatch in Ginetta GT5 was ok. Donington was terrible. I think I had problems in Ginetta JR races as well. Can't recall about practice and quali.

RobPhoboS
23-03-2018, 10:57
Robhd - please can you just use your/someone’s phone to shoot a bit of footage showing the problem, upload it here/youtube wherever, there are plenty of free hosting sites.

gmmiller
26-03-2018, 04:10
Then explain to me why my TX works perfectly fine and for others as well. Since you are an engineer and I know nothing and the things I suggested do nothing. Can you explain to me why my videos prove its working? Im on patch 4 and the TX clearly works. If its a game problem, how is mine special? They all should be broken then.

I am selling my TX because I upgraded to Fanatec. The Fanatec issue will be fixed soon in Patch 5. Not only that, the Fanatec is not "broken" to where it is un-useable. I purchased the Fanatec stuff in Nov, prior to Patch 3 giving FFB issues. Im not selling the TX because it does not work like you are implying lol

The way FFB works is every sim uses the FFB API provided by Microsoft as part of the xbone operating system. What's essentially different in this case is how PC2 is storing the values returned by the wheel that's failing and what it's doing to the values it stores. My wheel works fine most of time and when it doesn't cold booting will fix it EXCEPT for the Ginetta and that fails no matter what. This is a software problem with PC2 ONLY SINCE PATCH 4. Prior to this all TX wheels I have work fine and still work fine in the demo. Since all wheels are mechanical devices there is always a variation in values returned and up to the sim to determine the maximum range of values acceptable to it. Unless ALL of these wheels having problems in PC2 since the last patch also fail in every other sim it simply CAN NOT be the wheel! Just because YOUR wheel works you can't guarantee your wheel is set up exactly the same as a failing wheel running exactly the same part of the sim and returning exactly the same FFB values causing the failure. While I CAN use programming to see the tolerances that are acceptable to the API before failure I DO NOT have PC2 source code but I CAN see the values being passed across the USB port I have seen nothing exceeding the acceptable API values from TX wheels I have tested. This eliminates any other source of failure EXCEPT the patch 4 FFB changes.

Robhd
26-03-2018, 07:26
I am not a tecchie myself (by any stretch of the imagination) but my analogy for the issue i have experienced would run something like...

I have a lovely (but very pricey) Linn lp12 turntable and i have a new record that i just bought that jumps.... But after testing the other dozens of records i have still play fine do i..
A. Take the record back and ask for a replacement/ refund
B. Throw away the LP12 thats working fine with everything else and buy another...

Its a no brainer to me...

PS... I am not seeking a refund lol, just an acknowledgment of were the fundamental issue lies and even hopefully a fix... If one doesn't come along so be it, but would i look favourably on the next installment in this to date fabulous franchise... Leave that one with me... I will need to think about it.

... As a footnote i spent (several) happy hours playing PC1 yesterday with nary a glitch, lovely ffb... The problem, To steal a quote...its in the game!

Zaskarspants
26-03-2018, 13:01
I am not a tecchie myself (by any stretch of the imagination) but my analogy for the issue i have experienced would run something like...

I have a lovely (but very pricey) Linn lp12 turntable and i have a new record that i just bought that jumps.... But after testing the other dozens of records i have still play fine do i..
A. Take the record back and ask for a replacement/ refund
B. Throw away the LP12 thats working fine with everything else and buy another...

Its a no brainer to me...

PS... I am not seeking a refund lol, just an acknowledgment of were the fundamental issue lies and even hopefully a fix... If one doesn't come along so be it, but would i look favourably on the next installment in this to date fabulous franchise... Leave that one with me... I will need to think about it.

... As a footnote i spent (several) happy hours playing PC1 yesterday with nary a glitch, lovely ffb... The problem, To steal a quote...its in the game!

Post a video, as previously suggested, instead of all this sophistry and I expect a solution for you will be forthcoming.

Robhd
26-03-2018, 14:27
I tried uploading through the forum and it wouldn't, youtube i have just created an a/c for and gave up... Wtf is that all about?

Sophistry... Implies an intended act of deception Zaskerpants which i find insulting and downright rude!

I won't stoop to send a suitable response, my tongue can be far more caustic than most, so lets just say I am very pleased that you and others have encountered no such issues post last patch, do they exist? Yes..

Zaskarspants
26-03-2018, 14:41
I tried uploading through the forum and it wouldn't, youtube i have just created an a/c for and gave up... Wtf is that all about?

Sophistry... Implies an intended act of deception Zaskerpants which i find insulting and downright rude!

I won't stoop to send a suitable response, my tongue can be far more caustic than most, so lets just say I am very pleased that you and others have encountered no such issues post last patch, do they exist? Yes..

You can just post a link to a you tube video, you don't need to upload to the forum.

Robhd
26-03-2018, 17:21
Zaskar... I made a youtube a/c tried to upload the video and it kept telling me action aborted... Drove me loopy!

Maskmagog
26-03-2018, 17:58
I found a short video I made just after patch 4. I bought the wheel not that long before, but I never experienced this pre patch 4.
I'm holding the wheel firmly with one hand (camera in other). Don't remember FFB settings, but you can see FFB histogram, it's low.
https://youtu.be/Lu7AY021U6E

I only get this in Ginetta (GT5 or JR) career, other cars seem fine, which makes me think it's the Ginetta that's bugged FFB-wise since patch 4. Same car/conditions in private training is fine, but in career, it's shaking all the way around the track.
LMP3 at Sugo (career) I got a bit of wheel shaking passing the pits, for like a second only.
(btw this is not my current setup, so no need to comment that)

Juiced46, did you have a chance to try Ginettas in career?

Maskmagog
28-03-2018, 21:23
Made a new video. LMP3 career at Fuji, in rain. Wheel shaking badly when passing the pits. Rest of the track it's ok.
Again, I'm holding the wheel as firmly as I can with one hand, while filming with the other. Once I've passed the pit, it's calm again.

https://youtu.be/DJYQ4oyNJO4

Juiced46
30-03-2018, 15:00
Juiced46, did you have a chance to try Ginettas in career?

Sorry I never got a chance to. I was on vacation all week and last weekend I sold my wheelstand that I use for the TX so I have no way to test it now. I am not going to break down my rig that my Fanatec stuff is on unfortunately to test on. Its too much work. Sorry.

Robhd
31-03-2018, 17:04
So after having been playing PC1 for a few days with no FFB issues I thought i'll just give PC2 another go... Yup.. Played fne! As long as i didn't turn up the wheel weight to far i haven't had any of the thrashing from side to side or juddering... Bemused, yes... But hey, long may it continue... I had forgotten just how great the actual game is!

Fat Tire Biker
03-04-2018, 13:22
Ok, I am struggling with FFB settings. Have tried almost everything posted here and it still feels jittery and strange. I thought maybe this was just the way FFB worked as this is the only game I tried it on (my first FFB wheel since the old XBOX 360 wheel), but then I installed another recently released, very well known "Simcade" racing game and the difference is night and day, it just feels right, very smooth and predictable.
Now I am just not sure there really is a fix via settings in this game, at this point. Too bad, because I really like the approach of PC2 from multiplayer with licensing, to the career mode, to the physics, but none of that matters if the steering feels so nervous and odd.

Robhd
03-04-2018, 15:08
For past couple of days ffb was really great, strong and detailed then i paused the game in race, left it standing for a few minutes, came back and ever since it has been way too light and feels like you are floating above the track, absolutely no adjustments made to car or ffb settings in between...

Hammerpgh
08-04-2018, 07:22
For past couple of days ffb was really great, strong and detailed then i paused the game in race, left it standing for a few minutes, came back and ever since it has been way too light and feels like you are floating above the track, absolutely no adjustments made to car or ffb settings in between...

Unfortunately doing anything mid race can cause such issues. I've had the same by looking at a replay and then when I went back to the race all FFB had vanished. Try resetting your wheel as that sometimes clears it but even then it doesn't always feel how it was originally. It's part of the unpredictable nature of this game I'm afraid.

Zaskarspants
08-04-2018, 11:57
Unfortunately doing anything mid race can cause such issues. I've had the same by looking at a replay and then when I went back to the race all FFB had vanished. Try resetting your wheel as that sometimes clears it but even then it doesn't always feel how it was originally. It's part of the unpredictable nature of this game I'm afraid.

I have never had anything like that happen to me in over 300 hours on xb1 and xbx.

Can you post more information about the exact circumstances so people can try to reproduce this?

Hammerpgh
08-04-2018, 12:15
I have never had anything like that happen to me in over 300 hours on xb1 and xbx.

Can you post more information about the exact circumstances so people can try to reproduce this?

Nothing special.. just midway through an Indycar race at Indianapolis and I paused to view a replay of an overtake then when I went back to the race I had no FFB at all. This was a while ago now and I've since taken to not watching replays mid race any more.

Zaskarspants
08-04-2018, 12:21
Nothing special.. just midway through an Indycar race at Indianapolis and I paused to view a replay of an overtake then when I went back to the race I had no FFB at all. This was a while ago now and I've since taken to not watching replays mid race any more.

I don't think I have ever watched a replay during a race so that may be why I have not noticed this, when bf off fallout 4 I will try to replicate.

Hammerpgh
20-04-2018, 13:41
I had this same thing happen last night during some practice for an Indycar League race at Long Beach. I had an incident that I wanted to check out so went to the replay and when I went back the FFB was gone. This wasn't the first time I had checked out a replay during the session and previously the problem had not happened. Nothing I tried in game would resolve it so I rebooted the wheel which brought the FFB but not how it was before and also turning the car was like I was driving a bus as though the DoR had changed. I reset the DoR on the wheel to what it usually is (the default for the TX) but it still felt off. Tried re-calibrating the wheel but that was even worse and after a couple of more wheel resets I gave up the ghost having spent the last 40 minutes trying to get my wheel back to how I had it prior to the glitch.

This game takes you to the top of the mountain and back to the bottom again with how inconsistent it can be. When it's working it's fantastic and it feels so good, as good as any i've driven but when it's not it's the so frustrating and you spend way too much time tinkering to get things back to how you had them.

Anyway, a quick question on the calibrating your wheel.. how exactly do you guys do it as the instructions are a bit woolly. Stage 1 says to turn all the way fully left or right in either direction which for me usually shows a reading of 100 (sometimes 95/6 so I try again until I get the 100) but then Stage 2 says to hold it at 90 degrees. Now is that 90 degrees from it's original position or 90 degrees from the fully left or right position you reach at the end of stage 1? Some say you should just do the second stage to whatever your wheels DoR is set to even if that is not a 90 degree turn. What do you do?

Zaskarspants
20-04-2018, 15:00
I watched a few replays mid race, went back to race, everything was ok.

This with g920.

Hammerpgh
20-04-2018, 15:23
I watched a few replays mid race, went back to race, everything was ok.

This with g920.

Yeah, I watched several before it happened to me. Some of my racing pals also have it happen if they drop back to the home screen or invite people into sessions. Annoying in the extreme.

Zaskarspants
20-04-2018, 17:40
Yeah, I watched several before it happened to me. Some of my racing pals also have it happen if they drop back to the home screen or invite people into sessions. Annoying in the extreme.

Just to be clear, I cannot repeat this issue.

How often do you get it ? I tried some more today, I must have tried at least ten times in the last few days and cannot get it to bug.

Hammerpgh
20-04-2018, 19:16
Just to be clear, I cannot repeat this issue.

How often do you get it ? I tried some more today, I must have tried at least ten times in the last few days and cannot get it to bug.

I guess it's just one of those things that some get and some don't, like many of the other issues we see reported. It's happened to me about half a dozen times I would say. It wouldn't be so bad if I could just reset my wheel and get going again but that's not the case unfortunately.

TheSimGirl
29-06-2018, 18:57
Related to the above post on Wheel Calibration. Is this the correct way?
256946

OR, do you keep turning to the right after Zero until you get to 900, then SAVE??

The correct is to first turn the wheel to its max (900), then back to 90, not just 90 from 900. You want to to see 900 and then 90.

Heavysaurus
29-06-2018, 19:42
900.

Simple explanation for a 900 degree wheel:

-Turn all the way to the left, which is one and a quarter rotations.
-Should show 100
-Set
-Turn wheel back to starting position, which would be one and a quarter rotations to the right
-Continue about another quarter rotation to the right until the display shows 900.
-Set

TheSimGirl
29-06-2018, 20:22
900.

Simple explanation for a 900 degree wheel:

-Turn all the way to the left, which is one and a quarter rotations.
-Should show 100
-Set
-Turn wheel back to starting position, which would be one and a quarter rotations to the right
-Continue about another quarter rotation to the right until the display shows 900.
-Set

When you turn it back to the starting position, it will read 0. Then turn to the right until it reads 90.

Heavysaurus
29-06-2018, 21:23
For my G920 on XB1 after returning to the starting position where it does indeed read 0, the lowest number I can rotate to the right down to is 180. I read their instruction #2 "Now hold the wheel either 90 degrees clockwise or anti-clockwise and press Finish" as rotating the wheel a quarter turn (90 degrees), which displays for me as 900. Another full turn to full lock only drops the number for me down to 180.

TheSimGirl
29-06-2018, 23:08
For my G920 on XB1 after returning to the starting position where it does indeed read 0, the lowest number I can rotate to the right down to is 180. I read their instruction #2 "Now hold the wheel either 90 degrees clockwise or anti-clockwise and press Finish" as rotating the wheel a quarter turn (90 degrees), which displays for me as 900. Another full turn to full lock only drops the number for me down to 180.

Make sure your wheel is set to 900. Through a combo of button presses, you can change the wheel rotation to lock before hitting 900. Look it up if on their site.

ShneebnaMRR108
30-06-2018, 00:07
900.

Simple explanation for a 900 degree wheel:

-Turn all the way to the left, which is one and a quarter rotations.
-Should show 100
-Set
-Turn wheel back to starting position, which would be one and a quarter rotations to the right
-Continue about another quarter rotation to the right until the display shows 900.
-Set

Thank you for the simple and effective instructions. Not sure why the Digital manual or the game notes couldn't just be as clear? But at least fully understand it now.

Heavysaurus
30-06-2018, 00:35
Edit: Unintended post

Heavysaurus
30-06-2018, 00:50
Well, don't thank me until you try it and it goes like I said it does. There's a discrepancy with how TheSimGirl sees it and how I do.

@TheSimGirl. I can't do the old button trick with my G920. Must hook it to a PC (which I don't have) and check DOR in LGS. Default DOR is 900 out of the box, and mine has been connected to my XB1 only. Can't imagine how it would have changed DOR. Sure feels like 900. Without a PC I can't be 100% sure, of course, but I've been using 900 DOR in various racing games for about 12 years now and this feels right. Not arguing with you. Following the instructions as I've written them puts me right where I want to be.

TheSimGirl
30-06-2018, 01:31
Well, don't thank me until you try it and it goes like I said it does. There's a discrepancy with how TheSimGirl sees it and how I do.

@TheSimGirl. I can't do the old button trick with my G920. Must hook it to a PC (which I don't have) and check DOR in LGS. Default DOR is 900 out of the box, and mine has been connected to my XB1 only. Can't imagine how it would have changed DOR. Sure feels like 900. Without a PC I can't be 100% sure, of course, but I've been using 900 DOR in various racing games for about 12 years now and this feels right. Not arguing with you. Following the instructions as I've written them puts me right where I want to be.

Sorry, it read the thread title. Didn't realize it's a different wheel. On the other hand, figuring out 900° of rotation is easy.

Turn your wheel all the way to the left. (With it off, no power) Turn it to the right 1 full turn. (Basically the wheel is right back to it's starting position) That = 360°. Turn it another full turn. That's 720°. You now should only be able to turn it half way which is 180°. 360+360+180 =900

I hope this somewhat helps.

Juiced46
30-06-2018, 01:38
When you turn it back to the starting position, it will read 0. Then turn to the right until it reads 90.

That is incorrect. If your wheel is set to 900 DOR. When you turn it 90 degrees, screen will read 900. 90degrees is the 3oclock position. If the screen reads 90, you will be around 1oclock

TheSimGirl
30-06-2018, 03:19
That is incorrect. If your wheel is set to 900 DOR. When you turn it 90 degrees, screen will read 900. 90degrees is the 3oclock position. If the screen reads 90, you will be around 1oclock

I'll take screen shots. If you turn to the left at full lock, then bring back to 0...3 o'clock is 90. 6 o'clock is 180

Heavysaurus
30-06-2018, 11:53
Sorry, it read the thread title. Didn't realize it's a different wheel. On the other hand, figuring out 900° of rotation is easy.

Turn your wheel all the way to the left. (With it off, no power) Turn it to the right 1 full turn. (Basically the wheel is right back to it's starting position) That = 360°. Turn it another full turn. That's 720°. You now should only be able to turn it half way which is 180°. 360+360+180 =900

I hope this somewhat helps.

It does, but all that really tells you is that the wheel is designed to be 900, not necessarily what its soft/firmware is set to. Simpler method for the mathematically challenged- One and a quarter rotations in either direction from top dead center= 900 (450+450). One and a half rotations= 1080 (540+540). Three quarters of a turn= 270 (135+135))(Like the old MS Wireless Racing)

Mine is doing what Juiced46 is saying, except when I begin the second step and rotate to the right, just off center it's in the high 17000s, at 1oclock it's in the mid 2000s, at 2 it's down to around 1400, then at 3 it's at 900.

Juiced46
30-06-2018, 13:55
I'll take screen shots. If you turn to the left at full lock, then bring back to 0...3 o'clock is 90. 6 o'clock is 180

That is strange. My TX and Fanatec both when set to 900 DOR when you are at 90degrees from center. It reads 900. If i switch the DOR to say, 540, 90 degrees will show 540. Simgirl, I am assuming you are on Xbox, maybe PC is different?

Juiced46
30-06-2018, 13:56
It does, but all that really tells you is that the wheel is designed to be 900, not necessarily what its soft/firmware is set to. Simpler method for the mathematically challenged- One and a quarter rotations in either direction from top dead center= 900 (450+450). One and a half rotations= 1080 (540+540). Three quarters of a turn= 270 (135+135))(Like the old MS Wireless Racing)

Mine is doing what Juiced46 is saying, except when I begin the second step and rotate to the right, just off center it's in the high 17000s, at 1oclock it's in the mid 2000s, at 2 it's down to around 1400, then at 3 it's at 900.


You are right. I forgot it actually starts at a higher # from center then goes down. However. Whatever wheel DOR is set to, 90 degrees will show that DOR which is the 3oclock position

Juiced46
08-07-2018, 16:19
I'll take screen shots. If you turn to the left at full lock, then bring back to 0...3 o'clock is 90. 6 o'clock is 180

Did you ever get a chance to screenshot this? I am curious to your results since I have never seen the game show the values like that. Also are you on PC or Xbox?