PDA

View Full Version : PCARS2 Car Setup Talk



Pages : [1] 2

Roger Prynne
26-09-2017, 11:29
Discuss your car setups here.

blinkngone
26-09-2017, 11:41
OK Roger, how are doing? I am trying to get all my GT3's into the 1:24's at Dubai National, the default set ups had a large range between cars which is ok, just going to try and tighten up the group. Attached is the Audi LMS, it's about 2 seconds off my best PC1 time with the Ultra. Haven't touched dampers or LSD.
240611
240612
You know, there is no way to tell what car the setup belongs to, the old summary page in PC! showed the car, now you will have to make a folder for each car/track to keep track.

Ensi Ferrum
26-09-2017, 19:02
The Setups are stored on a per car base. Means all Setups for car A are stored in one Folder. All Setups for car B are stored in another folder.
Not the worst Approach, but far away from the best solution. At least as it is shown ingame.
To make things even worse: It is not possible to store a Setup with the same name for different tracks!
I like to name my setups "Dry_Race_nn" or "Wet_Quali_nn", etc. This isn't possible, although the are "saved" in different "folders".
In other words, something this would be perfect:
240817
But this is the status quo:
240818
To make this much more less understandable:
- The filenames tell us exactly nothing about the car or the track.
- The files are encrypted?
240820

Sorry These are some design decisions I cannot understand.
Why do you make it this complicated, SMS?

breyzipp
27-09-2017, 15:22
As someone new to tuning I wonder what is the best place to learn it?

Should I start with a road car or a race car? Should I start with FWD, AWD, RWD?

I would assume it’s best to start in whatever car is easiest to tune right? With the least tuning options available? Otherwise the sheer amount of options is probably a bit overwhelming.

If anyone can recommend some cars and test tracks I can give it a go tonight. :)

Edit - can we please also have a separate forum for car setup talk?

blinkngone
28-09-2017, 20:09
Hi breyzipp, this is temporary, Roger put it up, eventually there will be a separate one, things are too busy now. Everyone is going to have a different opinion on where you should start. Some will push you toward road cars and others might choose a cup car. I would pick a car that has a good default set up even if it's fast(you are allowed to go slower if you want) so I would chose the GT3 Ford GT at Dubai National or Circuit of the Americas Club. The Ford has pretty good default set ups on the tracks I have runs using the PC, I am assuming the defaults will be similar in XBOX1. There are around 20,000 car/track combinations in this game, I haven't had time to test very many. If you think this car is too loose you can add more camber(this is what SMS does, look at the difference in their loose and stable set ups), it will help you in cornering and only make you slightly slower until you get better at car control. From what I have seen in the default set ups you can focus on the first 2 pages for your tuning experiments and leave the others at default until you get better/more knowledgeable.

Jezza819
28-09-2017, 20:48
Maybe I can try my question in here.

If I want to make a standard change to a car's setup, say reduce the fuel load, for whenever I use that car. I go in and make the change then hit "done" then "save". It brings up a menu and asks something about saving it to a new slot. I say yes and then it brings up another menu that has "tracks" over to the left and I can't remember what is in the center (I'm at work right now trying to remember all of this). In that "tracks" menu it's got "all tracks" and then below it the current track you're on. But I can't get the selector to move down there to select either one. How do you do that?

In PCars1 I believe once you made a change to a car then came out of the setup and hit save "A" was for all tracks. In PCars2 I don't see that option as specified. I've just been hitting SAVE there and it's been applying it and it shows the name of the car.

Regarding that saved setup, if I want to go back into it and change something else, come all the way back out once you've made the change, it asks you if you want to override the current slot but it shows a totally different car and track than you're currently on. Or the other option is to save to a new slot but then you have to rename it something else. I've just been using something like NSX GT3 1 since I didn't know if there was a better way.

I guess i'm asking for a tutorial on how to save a setup and then make a change to it.

ramm21
28-09-2017, 21:33
Pretty sad when the saving process keeps a lot of people from tuning, including myself. I just got tired of trying to tune and keep all the different changes in their right places. Sometimes I make a change and give it a new name, or try to override the current setup and keep the same name, but the change isn't saved.

Last night I was in MP, got my per lap fuel average and calculated how much I needed. I save it, then load the same file just to make sure its applied! Get ready for start of race and look down at the motec. Gas tank is full. I give up until theres a sane way of saving setups. Not sure if this was intended or if its some sort of bug but simple things shouldn't be this hard, like saving and applying a tune to a car.

Right now I just use the Loose setup and decrease tire pressures front and back and cross my fingers the game actually makes that change. I would rather finish a few spots back than rip my hair out trying to make sense of the way the game applies setups.

Rednax97
28-09-2017, 22:15
I completly agree. I have the same issues. I think PC1 did setups better personally as they were easier to use.

blinkngone
28-09-2017, 23:25
I used to use a method similar to Jezza819 but that didn't work so I added specific track abbreviations as well but that isn't 100% either. Sometimes Page 1 will save correctly but not page 2, don't know why. I could fill up this page with all the weird setup failures I have had. There have also been multiple "bug splat" crashes while testing so for a while today I was just running default and crossing fingers mostly ala ramm21. When no setups show up(only fast and loose for example or even none) on a track you know you have run many times sometimes you can retrieve them by using load then select from the track box on the left. I am going to remain hopeful this will be straightened out and PC2 will have the advantage by storing multiple setups and just to be factual after over 2 years PC1 would still have set up failures so I have nothing to lose by being patient here even if it is frustrating. Something needs to be done about the potential "shared setup function". Heck, when I go back to a track often the set up that loads is the track I was on previously not the current track so if someone came along and tried to share my set up on that/my current track they might get a set up completely unsuited for the track they are trying completely blowing the concept. I have even read where some people think they have gotten a set up from a completely different car when testing for themselves although I haven't noticed this myself. I use an asymmetric set up for Coyote Noose and if I go back to Dubai National that results in a really messed up WTF is happening run so you have to constantly check and recheck.

Jezza819
29-09-2017, 02:02
Pretty sad when the saving process keeps a lot of people from tuning, including myself. I just got tired of trying to tune and keep all the different changes in their right places. Sometimes I make a change and give it a new name, or try to override the current setup and keep the same name, but the change isn't saved.

Last night I was in MP, got my per lap fuel average and calculated how much I needed. I save it, then load the same file just to make sure its applied! Get ready for start of race and look down at the motec. Gas tank is full. I give up until theres a sane way of saving setups. Not sure if this was intended or if its some sort of bug but simple things shouldn't be this hard, like saving and applying a tune to a car.

Right now I just use the Loose setup and decrease tire pressures front and back and cross my fingers the game actually makes that change. I would rather finish a few spots back than rip my hair out trying to make sense of the way the game applies setups.

In PCars1 I basically abandoned LeMans because I couldn't figure out how to make a setup apply just to that track. I don't want to do that with PCars2.

REFNightmare
29-09-2017, 11:33
My setup?

Try the car out with default loose setup, realise I spin out, A LOT. Go to race engineer, tell him I'm spinning out at corner entry, see what he adjusts. Doesn't make a huge difference so I go in, whack the changes more, and try again. Notice that I don't improve so I put it down to my lack of skill, and give up in frustration lol

Then swap over to stable setup, massive amounts of understeer, race engineer again, see what he changes, change it more. Same thing. Car still understeers.

I found Pcars 1 easier to drive, but I know it's just because I need to get used to this game.

Anyone have a good base setup for GT3 cars? On Pcars 1 people said to change tyre pressure or adjust one thing slightly and it improved the car. I reckon, although I may be completely wrong, that the physics changes to Pcars 2 have made the tuning more life like I suppose??? Coz changing just one thing now doesn't make a huge difference lol

Anyways once again, anyone got a decent setup for a GT3 baseline?

blinkngone
29-09-2017, 19:07
REFNightmare go ahead and try some of my setups.

FYI, if you were curious what the Bias parameters can do I ran a test using the Ferrari GT3 Loose set up. I changed the Bias Power from 2.0 to 1.0 and Bias Coast from 3.4 to 1.0. Attached are the results. So a 0:00.641 improvement by changing these parameters. Also, the GTE Ferrari uses 1 and 1 here.
241319
241320
I ran the Ferrari 488 GTE using a "Loose" set up and ran 00:31.722. I am usually faster with GTE.

Wayne Kerr
29-09-2017, 19:18
There are at LEAST three types of u/s or o/s. Entry, mid, exit.

Without knowing what you are feeling where, it is impossible to tell you what to do. Exit u/s fix is not the same as an entry u/s fix and it definitely isn't the same fix as a mid corner u/s fix.

REFNightmare
30-09-2017, 08:51
There are at LEAST three types of u/s or o/s. Entry, mid, exit.

Without knowing what you are feeling where, it is impossible to tell you what to do. Exit u/s fix is not the same as an entry u/s fix and it definitely isn't the same fix as a mid corner u/s fix.

I was adjusting all of them to decrease oversteer via the race engineer.

I've opted to race the Audi atm as apparently that's the easiest car to drive atm, and it seems to be as it doesn't spin out much, however what I am noticing, is that it understeers a fair bit, and I can see in my mirrors that the outside tyres are smoking up when going through a corner and causing excessive temps and wear. There isn't any option to rectify that in the race engineer as he doesn't seem to go into THAT much detail for adjustments, so what is best to sort this out? I tried to lower understeer via the race engineer and that seemed to help a little bit, but I'm still getting the smoking issue, but when following other drivers who are also in the Audi, they're turning in better than I am, and where I'm understeering, they're accelerating out of the corner and still turning in with no tyre smoke at all.

What is best to rectify this? I'm going to stick with the Audi so that future adjustments are based on this car.

Btw, is that your real name? I don't mean to be insulting but that is quite a funny name from the perspective of an Englishman lol

Icecream-Inc
30-09-2017, 12:04
is there a setups website/depository anywhere?

Chris007
30-09-2017, 13:44
Hei men i think i know what your problem is. my friend and i are trying to get the car to not spin out in corners etc, tried all the tuning settings and control settings... it turns out it was the tyres who made the problem, try using Soft Slick Tyres.

REFNightmare
30-09-2017, 14:04
Soft slicks for me overheat too quickly and are getting toasty on lap 3

Roger Prynne
30-09-2017, 14:15
^ You need to drive more conservatively then, as in don't push to hard in the corners, as that shouldn't happen.

nepal roade
30-09-2017, 14:23
breyzipp Get yourself a copy of the RFactor 2 Advanced Setup Guide (and RFactor 2 if you don't have it). It has by far the best features for tuning in all the sims I've seen including PC 2. If ou save your setups with an incremental coding like v1a, v1b, v1c, etc, after each minor change and when happy with that one aspect you then save v2a, v2b, v2c, etc for the next component being tuned, you can at any time compare the current setup with a previous one. Combine this with a notepad so you can make notes about the changes made, improved lap times and so on makes IMHO the perfect setup system.

The first thing you should do is set aero as near zero as possible. Then set up your suspension spring and slow damper settings. These manage the weight transfer of your vehicle. Adjust until you've got a nice F/R balance into during and out of turns, i.e. no understeer, no oversteer. Do one part at a time. Follow the guide lines of the RF2 Advanced Setup Guide. The two best tracks generally speaking to tune a car are Spa and Silverstone as recommended in the guide, although tuning for individual tracks can bring great rewards. Each change you make, test the car to see how it is affected. To get any where decent at tuning will take many many many hours and a clear understanding of what a car is doing especially weight wise. Be warned, tuning a car will usually take a great deal more time than you will spend racing it.
p.s. The guide is applicable generally, not just to RFactor 2.

kondor999
30-09-2017, 14:36
They need to save car setups the exact same way Raceroom and AC do: On a per-car, per-track basis.

Meanwhile, I save my setups with names like "Quali-962C-Le Mans" so I don't end up duplicating filenames.

REFNightmare
30-09-2017, 14:43
^ You need to drive more conservatively then, as in don't push to hard in the corners, as that shouldn't happen.

I'll have to record it one night, but in multiplayer, where my car is understeering and I'm having to turn the wheel a lot more to get it to push in, other people in the same car are blasting through the corners, and can get on the throttle a lot sooner than I can because my car pushes out wide. It's a setup issue because if I was to drive any slower to prevent the tyres getting scrubbed so much, I'd be a lot slower than I currently am. Atm I'm 5 seconds down on average than the guy in 1st, if I was to drive slower to try and save my tyres I'd be even worse off lol I tried soft slicks during quali, and before my out lap had even finished the tyres were starting to overheat. They were at 20 psi cold, and only seemed to go up to 24-25 psi when they were overheating. On Pcars 1 the tyres IIRC used to be setup on default at 27-28psi on the GT3 cars. 20 psi seems really low to me, as my motorbike has pressures of 36 front and 42 rear. I just put the really low pressures down to it being RACE CAR. lol

It's a shame I can't have MPH with PSI as pressure, because I don't understand BAR lol Laziness on my part of not converting but I left the tyres at default as I thought that would be ok. Maybe I need to pump the tyres right up a bit to get decent handling out of them??? Just assuming that with the new physics model the default setup would of been mostly correct, was I simplifying it too much and should default tyre pressures be about the 26psi range cold like in pcars 1.

Chris007
30-09-2017, 15:07
ok cool, i did not notice that the tyre pressure increases when they they warm up ;D
also when i use the soft slick i got lots of understeer which i fixed as good as a can with my tuning knowledge now and works fine now. i also tried the differential settings from blinkngone but my tyres still smoke.
well i am heading back into the game and play around with my R8 tuning :D

Wayne Kerr
01-10-2017, 01:26
I'll have to record it one night, but in multiplayer, where my car is understeering and I'm having to turn the wheel a lot more to get it to push in, other people in the same car are blasting through the corners, and can get on the throttle a lot sooner than I can because my car pushes out wide. It's a setup issue because if I was to drive any slower to prevent the tyres getting scrubbed so much, I'd be a lot slower than I currently am. Atm I'm 5 seconds down on average than the guy in 1st, if I was to drive slower to try and save my tyres I'd be even worse off lol I tried soft slicks during quali, and before my out lap had even finished the tyres were starting to overheat. They were at 20 psi cold, and only seemed to go up to 24-25 psi when they were overheating. On Pcars 1 the tyres IIRC used to be setup on default at 27-28psi on the GT3 cars. 20 psi seems really low to me, as my motorbike has pressures of 36 front and 42 rear. I just put the really low pressures down to it being RACE CAR. lol

It's a shame I can't have MPH with PSI as pressure, because I don't understand BAR lol Laziness on my part of not converting but I left the tyres at default as I thought that would be ok. Maybe I need to pump the tyres right up a bit to get decent handling out of them??? Just assuming that with the new physics model the default setup would of been mostly correct, was I simplifying it too much and should default tyre pressures be about the 26psi range cold like in pcars 1.

5 seconds off is not a setup issue, it's the nut behind the wheel.

glad a brit got my inside joke ;)

whoever said set aero as close to zero as possible, LOL. :D

REFNightmare
01-10-2017, 10:13
5 seconds off is not a setup issue, it's the nut behind the wheel.

glad a brit got my inside joke ;)

I'm not THAT bad of a driver thank you very much lol

No I do believe that for the moment my issue is a setup issue, I may go back tomorrow when I can get back on it and set everything back to default and try again. Maybe I slipped on the wheel and moved something I shouldn't have. On pcars 1 I often would come 1st or 2nd in GT3 races, so I would like to think I haven't lost it yet lol

SaxonRaider
01-10-2017, 17:43
I'm not THAT bad of a driver thank you very much lol

No I do believe that for the moment my issue is a setup issue, I may go back tomorrow when I can get back on it and set everything back to default and try again. Maybe I slipped on the wheel and moved something I shouldn't have. On pcars 1 I often would come 1st or 2nd in GT3 races, so I would like to think I haven't lost it yet lol

Ref I get the same problem you get, outside tyre on accelerating out the exit, it smokes like a chimney, but I get it on the Porsche GT3, and the Ginetta GT3. If you ever come to find a fix please let us know, I'm working on th anti roll bar strengths, and adjusting them wildly but they seem to make no difference to the smoking.

takaii
01-10-2017, 20:49
I need help.

driving on Hockenheimring my left rear and front tire get much hotter.
I would i do to balance it out? Left side get to hot while right side front is way too cool and rear right is a bit to cool.

what alternatives can i change to make it better? anyone

REFNightmare
01-10-2017, 22:45
I need help.

driving on Hockenheimring my left rear and front tire get much hotter.
I would i do to balance it out? Left side get to hot while right side front is way too cool and rear right is a bit to cool.

what alternatives can i change to make it better? anyone
Increase left side tyre pressure, decrease right side tyre pressure

rice_classic
01-10-2017, 23:56
Xbox One, G920.

I could use a functional setup for the Ginetta GT5 on career mode.

The AI, I feel, is inconsistent from track to track. I have the AI difficulty on 75. At Donnington I can qualify on POLE with a 1:19 which is 2 seconds over first place then run away from the field. However, every other track in that series and the car simply can't hang with the AI.

At Brands Hatch, I struggle with a 1:41 while the AI sets pole with a 1:37.xx. After running a hundred different setups and finding a few that worked really well - there's still 3+ seconds. I've followed the cars enough at Oultan and Brands Hatch to learn that the gap is in fast sweeping corners - something Donnington doesn't really have. The AI enters those fast sweepers like they have 2500lbs of down force. I finally had to turn on the aids and dial in a setup that would allow for fast entry trail braking to somewhat keep up with them on entry but it never seems like enough.

Maybe it's the wheel?

hkraft300
02-10-2017, 00:15
...where my car is understeering and I'm having to turn the wheel a lot more to get it to push in, other people in the same car are blasting through the corners, and can get on the throttle a lot sooner than I can because my car pushes out wide...

You are braking too late. Your front tires are toast all through the turn. Brake a fraction sooner. Too early, even. You'll easily make the apex and get a grand exit.

Also move brake bias towards the rear a few % or until the rear brakes lock. Then move it forward again by 2%. This will take some stress/load off the front tires and give you better front grip through the corner, essentially without changing anything else. At the very least, it will give you better brake performance.

This will affect your trail braking sensitivity. If you trail brake a lot, move bias forward more.

DayGlow
02-10-2017, 00:33
Confused by the Ginetta Junior. The diff has both geared and clutch settings. Not sure how to tweak it as there are multiple settings to do the same thing.

hkraft300
02-10-2017, 01:36
Confused by the Ginetta Junior. The diff has both geared and clutch settings. Not sure how to tweak it as there are multiple settings to do the same thing.

Why do you want to tweak the diff?

DayGlow
02-10-2017, 02:48
I want to decrease the power off oversteer on quick change of direction. Normally I would increase the coast, but now I have 2 different settings for the same thing.

hkraft300
02-10-2017, 12:40
Is it happening on normal signed direction turns?
Or the switch, like after the direction change?
Because it may be more an issue of body control instead of differential. Increase rear sway bar?

You can decrease the angle of coast ramp for quicker locking effect.

takaii
02-10-2017, 21:08
where us the sub forum? not up yet... a shame having a thread for everybody to post in really gets all cluttered up. We need a sub thread for garage talk

blinkngone
03-10-2017, 01:07
COTA Club Audi R8 LMS 1st.
241729
241730
241732
Note Power and Coast Ramp are 90 which is off.

blinkngone
03-10-2017, 03:45
This is the LSD for the Vantage GTE. The engines have about the same power but the ramps in the LMS are 90(off) while the GTE is 45/25 which if you read the Race Engineer seems to be for a lowered powered car. I couldn't get the GTE to work with the ramps at 90(off) so there are more interactions going on. With the GT3s and GTEs the coast ramps are mostly 25(except where both are 90(off)) and the power ramps are either 45, or 50 to 60(C7.R). This is another odd coincidence, there is a youtube video where the guy rates all the GT3's at default and he picked the LMS(one of the few with ramps off) as the fastest at Laguna Seca. The GTE is currently in 1st at Silverstone National and the LMS is about a half second back. I don't know why there are so many different settings for Bias ratios with the cars. The way I read the Race Engineer description none of these do anything unless you turn the Geared LSD on. If you turn the Geared LSD on you have to turn the Clutch LSD(default on all the cars) off. I didn't have any success with running the Geared LSD which I tried setting up like PC1 but I didn't spend a whole lot of time either so it may work. Can't say I have the single spinning rear tire problem others have but maybe it's because I have the traction control at 52%(where higher is off). TC off hasn't worked for me yet.
241736

ramm21
03-10-2017, 07:38
Is there anyplace that explains what all of those icons on the telemetry screen are? And how they calculate the numbers?
I was looking at the height number, and it dipped to 0 at the end of the straight. Does that mean my car bottomed out? It didn't feel like it and I didn't hear any scraping sounds...

REFNightmare
03-10-2017, 08:36
So after my appalling attempts to drive recently, I have finally tweaked some settings to make the car more drive-able. I read the post about differentials and also the tyre guide thing, and I tweaked my setup ever so slightly.

So default tyre pressures were 20psi, which i thought were incredibly low. So I increased them to 25-26 Psi cold. Seemed to reduce the amount of tyre scrubbing I was getting during the corner when my car was understeering, I could almost fully rotate the wheel 180 degrees and they were just about starting to smoke, whereas before they were smoking at 90 degrees.

I also enabled clutch LSD, and set the pre-load to IIRC 300Nm? I can't remember exactly.

My word, I can actually drive now lol

Set up a lobby, got 20+ people in, I qualified 5th which wasn't bad for me as I was starting with a new car, and I ended up finishing 5th.

Everyone else was way off the pace of the leader however, who was lapping a good 3 seconds quicker than the next fastest person. So no idea what setup he was on, but I want to try it lol

blinkngone
03-10-2017, 11:27
2016 Bentley Continental GT3, I seem to be more consistent and quicker using the Geared LSD with this car, maybe it's because I am familiar with the handling from PC1. I started with default "Loose" changed tire pressures, ABS and TC and LSD to Geared. Although I could get close to the Geared time with the Clutch I just wasn't able to repeat laps comfortably. The attached times are both Geared from different sessions. Only made one adjustment to Bias ratios from default so still more options here.
241749
241750

Cbrriderr
03-10-2017, 12:01
it really sucks that we cannot change the from metric to imperial system. I do not understand the system we are using in PC2 at the moment. I also drive In Iracing for over 4 years and build my own setups but I need numbers. it is really hard and time consuming having to convert from Nm and Bar to psi.
Why did they not implement both systems? this is only turf off at the moment.
also how do I DL a setup when doing TT? I add a ghost car but i do not see his setup?

Diluvian
03-10-2017, 12:43
I want to decrease the power off oversteer on quick change of direction. Normally I would increase the coast, but now I have 2 different settings for the same thing.

Either you enable geared LSD or clutch LSD. Only one of those settings will be active. I recommend you first to use the clutch LSD (enable it) and lower coast ramp a bit, raise preload a bit to get less power off oversteer. If you want more rotation when going on throttle I recommend lowering power ramp.

blinkngone
03-10-2017, 12:44
Cbbrrider. Select Vehicle not Class.
241754
Select Add Ghost
241755
Select the Ghost you want, it has to have a gear. It works better if you select from column on right.
241756
Click Add Ghost
241757
Ghost added.

blinkngone
03-10-2017, 19:22
Silverstone National-Corvette C7.R Geared vs. Clutch LSD. Switched from Clutch LSD to Geared and improved almost half a second, I suppose it could be because the handling resembles PC1, I don't know yet, this is just my 2nd car where I spent some time using the Geared LSD.
241785
241786

Jussi Karjalainen
03-10-2017, 19:57
COTA Club Audi R8 LMS 1st.
241729
241730
241732
Note Power and Coast Ramp are 90 which is off.


This is the LSD for the Vantage GTE. The engines have about the same power but the ramps in the LMS are 90(off) while the GTE is 45/25 which if you read the Race Engineer seems to be for a lowered powered car. I couldn't get the GTE to work with the ramps at 90(off) so there are more interactions going on. With the GT3s and GTEs the coast ramps are mostly 25(except where both are 90(off)) and the power ramps are either 45, or 50 to 60(C7.R). This is another odd coincidence, there is a youtube video where the guy rates all the GT3's at default and he picked the LMS(one of the few with ramps off) as the fastest at Laguna Seca. The GTE is currently in 1st at Silverstone National and the LMS is about a half second back. I don't know why there are so many different settings for Bias ratios with the cars. The way I read the Race Engineer description none of these do anything unless you turn the Geared LSD on. If you turn the Geared LSD on you have to turn the Clutch LSD(default on all the cars) off. I didn't have any success with running the Geared LSD which I tried setting up like PC1 but I didn't spend a whole lot of time either so it may work. Can't say I have the single spinning rear tire problem others have but maybe it's because I have the traction control at 52%(where higher is off). TC off hasn't worked for me yet.
241736If you look closely, the R8 LMS is running 350 Nm of preload. Audi have had a few different ones in them, but one manual had a preload only diff adjustable between 200-500 Nm IIRC, I tried it out and liked it enough to make it the default on it to give the car more character.

Nothing preventing you from running it with a 45/25 ramp diff with 100 Nm preload like most of the others.

Jussi Karjalainen
03-10-2017, 20:04
Either you enable geared LSD or clutch LSD. Only one of those settings will be active. I recommend you first to use the clutch LSD (enable it) and lower coast ramp a bit, raise preload a bit to get less power off oversteer. If you want more rotation when going on throttle I recommend lowering power ramp.Not true, both can act at the same time (and we have used this for some cars to give more dynamic locking behavior to mimic active systems).

blinkngone
03-10-2017, 20:26
Hi Jussi, thanks, I have tried "both" but I probably picked the wrong car to experiment on. With the GTE I tried the Aston Martin Vantage and with both "on" the handling was off and I was slower. I'll revisit my Audi with your suggestions as well. Which car would you suggest trying both on? Would you prefer using both to the Viscous LSD? As always you are appreciated. I am still working on some Geared LSD experiments.
Aston Martin Vantage GT3 Silverstone National 1st, the guy in 2nd only runs default and he is super quick so that I had to tune to get in front of him is the rule so I am not apples to apples. I may be slow but the handling for me has been easier with the Geared LSD. Admittedly I haven't adjusted the Cutch LSD much but since everyone else is I am going in a different direction for now, I'll rejoin the herd later. I am only running the unwanted cars at the moment.
241793
241794

Basicblaq
03-10-2017, 22:13
I love the tuning setup help menu. I was wondering if there happen to be any documents like the digtial manual online. I would like to read more about these setting changes instead of always going into the game. If there isn't, I guess i will just have to manually create one for myself.

Shooter80
03-10-2017, 23:39
If you look closely, the R8 LMS is running 350 Nm of preload. Audi have had a few different ones in them, but one manual had a preload only diff adjustable between 200-500 Nm IIRC, I tried it out and liked it enough to make it the default on it to give the car more character.

Nothing preventing you from running it with a 45/25 ramp diff with 100 Nm preload like most of the others.

I'm curious about the bolded part. You liked it enough cos it was 'more fun', or because it was 'faster', or why?

Alipjc2
04-10-2017, 00:29
Can someone help me in project cars 2 when I braking into corners my car is uncontrollable,really on unstable it pulls my steering left an right that I lose control an spin out its doing my head in goin give up on game that bad can someone please help

blinkngone
04-10-2017, 01:08
Alipjc2, please help us out. Which car and which track are you having problems with, please don't say all of them.;)

Jussi Karjalainen
04-10-2017, 01:11
I'm curious about the bolded part. You liked it enough cos it was 'more fun', or because it was 'faster', or why?It felt different while still working quite well. I didn't want every car in the game or in a given class to feel exactly the same (not that it's really possible but you can get fairly close via setup honing), and I saw this as an opportunity to try out something different.

DayGlow
04-10-2017, 01:55
Either you enable geared LSD or clutch LSD. Only one of those settings will be active. I recommend you first to use the clutch LSD (enable it) and lower coast ramp a bit, raise preload a bit to get less power off oversteer. If you want more rotation when going on throttle I recommend lowering power ramp.

In the setup screen the default loose setup had both enabled.

takaii
04-10-2017, 08:08
What settings will affect tire wear?

Name all you can think off...
Does increased grip = more wear as well?

Is there comming a subthread for this thread yet?

Racefancy
04-10-2017, 10:43
What settings will affect tire wear?

Name all you can think off...
Does increased grip = more wear as well?

Is there comming a subthread for this thread yet?
That's quite an in-depth question! Generally everything affects tyre wear because every setting affects car balance and behaviours in some way shape or form. Settings which should have the greatest direct impact on wear are your toes and cambers though, toe in particular as excessive amounts in either direction will laterally deform the contact patch down a straight. Camber will wear the inside shoulders particularly if running too much where even in corners you won't sit the outside tyre down square. I'm not sure how the game handles this in its model though, I doubt it takes camber into account when calculating wear but it should take tow into account.

As for increased grip = more wear, not necessarily. A tyre which slides over a harsh surface will generally wear quicker as it's being torn as it slides and an increase in under or oversteer will begin to overheat the surface which will exacerbate the wearing. Agin not sure how the game handles this though but I imagine if you have a car understeering everywhere in the game on a dry track then the front tyres are going to wear faster and show a higher temperature. I might go test this now for shits and giggles.

takaii
04-10-2017, 11:44
That's quite an in-depth question! Generally everything affects tyre wear because every setting affects car balance and behaviours in some way shape or form. Settings which should have the greatest direct impact on wear are your toes and cambers though, toe in particular as excessive amounts in either direction will laterally deform the contact patch down a straight. Camber will wear the inside shoulders particularly if running too much where even in corners you won't sit the outside tyre down square. I'm not sure how the game handles this in its model though, I doubt it takes camber into account when calculating wear but it should take tow into account.

As for increased grip = more wear, not necessarily. A tyre which slides over a harsh surface will generally wear quicker as it's being torn as it slides and an increase in under or oversteer will begin to overheat the surface which will exacerbate the wearing. Agin not sure how the game handles this though but I imagine if you have a car understeering everywhere in the game on a dry track then the front tyres are going to wear faster and show a higher temperature. I might go test this now for shits and giggles.

Yes i know its an indepth question but its i think a really important one.

I am trying to learn about Camber atm i found these two really good sources

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-VFlqPE1gBw&list=PLE067A7397E1AF108&index=11
and
http://www.drivermod.ca/articles-1/2016/1/29/how-much-camber

I drove around hockenheimring and that map my tires go out quickly. I noticed couple of things.
1. My left side wears faster and gets higher heat and i guess that is because its mostly left turns but its even heat on the inner middle and other which is good though.
2. My right side have mostly inner heat but very little heat overall and seem to work very little to get work.

What i believe is the main cause as i try to understand. ofc there will be more wear on left but atm its pretty aggressive. I want to last atleast 5-6 laps on soft tires but it goes out in 2-3 laps then its like driving on winter.

Back to issue 1 and 2.
I guess one big reason my right side isnt working as much as it should is because of bodyroll happening to much. It will increase pressure on outside tire but will also put rightside with less pressure. Should i use stiffer springs lower ride hight and maybe stiffen the swaybar?
Also i guess since its mostly right turns i guess i could get away with less negative chamber on right side to get the right side to work more in right turns instead? But i guess thats not the issue but mostly the bodyroll? Also i feel the car is oversteering which probably cause front tire to wear out quicker? Feels like i need to pull down the car during the last turn it isnt co opparitve...

Maybe with these explenations its better desiding why my tire wear out quicker.

Roger Prynne
04-10-2017, 12:06
^ Check this out..... http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?54023-Project-CARS-2-Suspension-Calculator-v0-96

Racefancy
04-10-2017, 12:31
Yes i know its an indepth question but its i think a really important one.

I am trying to learn about Camber atm i found these two really good sources

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-VFlqPE1gBw&list=PLE067A7397E1AF108&index=11
and
http://www.drivermod.ca/articles-1/2016/1/29/how-much-camber

I drove around hockenheimring and that map my tires go out quickly. I noticed couple of things.
1. My left side wears faster and gets higher heat and i guess that is because its mostly left turns but its even heat on the inner middle and other which is good though.
2. My right side have mostly inner heat but very little heat overall and seem to work very little to get work.

What i believe is the main cause as i try to understand. ofc there will be more wear on left but atm its pretty aggressive. I want to last atleast 5-6 laps on soft tires but it goes out in 2-3 laps then its like driving on winter.

Back to issue 1 and 2.
I guess one big reason my right side isnt working as much as it should is because of bodyroll happening to much. It will increase pressure on outside tire but will also put rightside with less pressure. Should i use stiffer springs lower ride hight and maybe stiffen the swaybar?
Also i guess since its mostly right turns i guess i could get away with less negative chamber on right side to get the right side to work more in right turns instead? But i guess thats not the issue but mostly the bodyroll? Also i feel the car is oversteering which probably cause front tire to wear out quicker? Feels like i need to pull down the car during the last turn it isnt co opparitve...

Maybe with these explenations its better desiding why my tire wear out quicker.
One thing to remember is that more body roll will not increase the amount of load on the outside tyre because the amount of load transfer taking place will be the same whether you have a low roll stiffness or a high one. What will change with more body roll however is the amount of camber change on the tyres so you end up requiring more negative camber to compensate. Yoire correct in that running less right hand side camber will benefit since there's less limiting corners on that side and you'll benefit with overall grip.

If the car is suffering oversteer it won't be the front tyres losing grip as that will cause understeer, if it's slow and medium corner understeer start with either lowering front tyre pressure and or increasing rear tyre pressure. If your tyre temperatures are still okay and you still have understeer then try softening the front roll bar and or stiffening the rear. You can also fiddle with springs. If it's more high speed understeer then consider changing your wings and ride heights (rake) but this will mostly only affect winged racing cars.

There's good guide around if you want to learn more.

Alipjc2
04-10-2017, 12:48
I racing GT3 Merc

Jussi Karjalainen
04-10-2017, 13:18
One thing to remember is that more body roll will not increase the amount of load on the outside tyre because the amount of load transfer taking place will be the same whether you have a low roll stiffness or a high one.The center of gravity of the car can (and usually does) move sideways with body roll, so there can be some extra weight on the outside with lots of body roll.

Flamaros
04-10-2017, 13:38
It would be awesome to be able to share car setups with Steam Workshop like in Dirt Rally. But actually the way setups are managed doesn't work well, we need to have setups per car and per tracks with the capacity to tweak few settings for qualifications, and the weather.

flthy
04-10-2017, 14:39
I'll have to record it one night, but in multiplayer, where my car is understeering and I'm having to turn the wheel a lot more to get it to push in, other people in the same car are blasting through the corners, and can get on the throttle a lot sooner than I can because my car pushes out wide. It's a setup issue because if I was to drive any slower to prevent the tyres getting scrubbed so much, I'd be a lot slower than I currently am. Atm I'm 5 seconds down on average than the guy in 1st, if I was to drive slower to try and save my tyres I'd be even worse off lol I tried soft slicks during quali, and before my out lap had even finished the tyres were starting to overheat. They were at 20 psi cold, and only seemed to go up to 24-25 psi when they were overheating. On Pcars 1 the tyres IIRC used to be setup on default at 27-28psi on the GT3 cars. 20 psi seems really low to me, as my motorbike has pressures of 36 front and 42 rear. I just put the really low pressures down to it being RACE CAR. lol

It's a shame I can't have MPH with PSI as pressure, because I don't understand BAR lol Laziness on my part of not converting but I left the tyres at default as I thought that would be ok. Maybe I need to pump the tyres right up a bit to get decent handling out of them??? Just assuming that with the new physics model the default setup would of been mostly correct, was I simplifying it too much and should default tyre pressures be about the 26psi range cold like in pcars 1.


Take .2 bar out of front tires. Reduce front sway bar stiffness by two clicks and increase rear sway bar stiffness by 4 clicks. Soften front spring rate one click and stiffen rear spring rate one click.
This should make a noticeable difference and you can adjust from here. Increasing rear sway bar stiffness and spring rate gives you over steer and decreasing front sway bar stiffness and spring rate helps get a little better front traction. Let me know how this works out for you.

blinkngone
04-10-2017, 21:56
Jussi's experiment.
Jussi mentioned you could combine the Geared LSD with the Clutch LSD and I tried briefly earlier without success. This time I had both on and turned the ramps off(90). I had to increase the preload from the default and I guess it works. I only made 1 run but I noticed the car felt more stable and I think the car could handle additional Bias ratio Power.
241882
241883

Racefancy
04-10-2017, 21:59
The center of gravity of the car can (and usually does) move sideways with body roll, so there can be some extra weight on the outside with lots of body roll.
Correct but generally considered insignificant when relatively stiff race cars are in mind and shouldn't be the focus of the setup when deciding on the body roll component as the roll centre heights affect other characteristics which are more critical in performance (lateral load transfer distributions, camber gain, bump steer etc).

hkraft300
04-10-2017, 22:26
Jussi's experiment.
Jussi mentioned you could combine the Geared LSD with the Clutch LSD and I tried briefly earlier without success. This time I had both on and turned the ramps off(90).

Ramps @90 effectively switches the clutch lsd off, no?
So you were running only with geared LSD...

blinkngone
05-10-2017, 00:17
Hi hkaft, Jussi has the LMS set up with 350 preload and ramps off(stable set up?) with this he uses preload and you can vary the preload up to 500. He came up with this from an actual differential used by Audi to give us more options. So I am only using preload from his Clutch LSD. I tried it at Silverstone National and there you start your 1st lap mid corner so I was behind my ghost until the last right hand corner before the start finish straight and I was able to pull harder from mid apex(where you start your lap) and clear off, I was so excited I quit. The 2nd lap is the quicker one but I didn't care to continue because I surprised myself with the result. This is pretty cool, we have many ways to make our cars comfortable for us to drive and adapt to our individual abilities/preferences.

Jussi Karjalainen
05-10-2017, 00:31
Ramps @90 effectively switches the clutch lsd off, no?
So you were running only with geared LSD...Doesn't turn the preload off.

Renoldo1990
05-10-2017, 00:47
Not inevitably a setup related question, but is there any way to find out at what UPM a certain engine develops the highest amount of Power? To find out perfect shifting-points etc.?

blinkngone
05-10-2017, 00:55
Hi hkraft, I repeated the test with my Z4 and it worked again. It was only 0.060 faster but I liked it, I think this(Geared and Clutch) will be my "basic" LSD set up. Not sure yet where to go for more performance, add more preload or more Bias ratio power but I really like Jussi's dynamic LSD.
241902
The WR for the Audi LMS at Silverstone National is 0:54.897 so I am only 0:00.082 off with my "slow" Z4.:cool:

blinkngone
05-10-2017, 01:22
Hi hkraft 3peat, Aston Martin Vantage GT3, this is the out lap! The Dynamic LSD really woke this car up. Stomp as hard as you want on the accelerator.
241914

hkraft300
05-10-2017, 01:43
Ramps @90 effectively switches the clutch lsd off, no?
So you were running only with geared LSD...


Doesn't turn the preload off.

Back to the drawing board... :rolleyes:

takaii
05-10-2017, 06:42
One thing to remember is that more body roll will not increase the amount of load on the outside tyre because the amount of load transfer taking place will be the same whether you have a low roll stiffness or a high one. What will change with more body roll however is the amount of camber change on the tyres so you end up requiring more negative camber to compensate. Yoire correct in that running less right hand side camber will benefit since there's less limiting corners on that side and you'll benefit with overall grip.

If the car is suffering oversteer it won't be the front tyres losing grip as that will cause understeer, if it's slow and medium corner understeer start with either lowering front tyre pressure and or increasing rear tyre pressure. If your tyre temperatures are still okay and you still have understeer then try softening the front roll bar and or stiffening the rear. You can also fiddle with springs. If it's more high speed understeer then consider changing your wings and ride heights (rake) but this will mostly only affect winged racing cars.

There's good guide around if you want to learn more.

Yes i want a good guide :D


One thing to remember is that more body roll will not increase the amount of load on the outside tyre because the amount of load transfer taking place will be the same whether you have a low roll stiffness or a high one.
I didnt say that. I meant that there is less body roll taking place which will cause more even weight distribution and more stable cornering. What i meant is that the body chassis will stay more center causing less weight on the left wheel on right turn and vice versa because off less body roll. i was wondering if that could help me even out the wear to all 4 wheels instead of left side getting all. Did a 1 hour GTE race yesterday noticed that camber less on right side did a huge impact on wear. I also ran higher pressure because more heat buildup on left side so they had more same pressure after 2-3 laps. It even out.

hkraft300
05-10-2017, 07:26
Yes i want a good guide :D
.


http://youtu.be/lIUPYUjSNJI

;)

Racefancy
05-10-2017, 07:30
Yes i want a good guide :D


I didnt say that. I meant that there is less body roll taking place which will cause more even weight distribution and more stable cornering. What i meant is that the body chassis will stay more center causing less weight on the left wheel on right turn and vice versa because off less body roll. i was wondering if that could help me even out the wear to all 4 wheels instead of left side getting all. Did a 1 hour GTE race yesterday noticed that camber less on right side did a huge impact on wear. I also ran higher pressure because more heat buildup on left side so they had more same pressure after 2-3 laps. It even out.

That's what I'm talking about though. Yes there is slight Centre of Gravity migration with body roll but its effects are not substantial in the sense you're implying with your post. There will not be noticeably more weight on the left wheel on a right turn because of more body roll, it will be basically the same as a car with zero body roll. What more body roll will do however is affect how the contact patch of the tyre interacts with the track surface, so with more body roll you will experience a greater change in camber due to the larger moment arm resulting in more of the weight transfer taking place through the springs and dampers as opposed to the suspension linkages. An important distinction to be made however is that changing the roll centre height on one end of the car will affect the weight transfer distribution which has a direct effect on how much grip each end of the car can produce (while maintaining the same total weight transfer). A car with lots of body roll will feel more lazy than one with little body roll.

Your testing sounds like you made the right choices with improving your setup, it's good practice to test and improve camber and pressure settings for each track and very common to run asymmetrical camber and pressure settings for tyres.

You can try stiffening your springs and anti roll bars as well and see how it affects the handling, you should feel the car become sharper and more responsive but if the track is very bumpy or there are a lot of curbs it might make the car feel too unstable and difficult to drive, so it's all about testing what you enjoy the most.

Here is a good read: http://racingcardynamics.com/weight-transfer/
http://www.formula1-dictionary.net/weight_transfer.html
http://white-smoke.wikifoundry.com/page/Lateral+Weight+Transfer

takaii
05-10-2017, 08:25
That's what I'm talking about though. Yes there is slight Centre of Gravity migration with body roll but its effects are not substantial in the sense you're implying with your post. There will not be noticeably more weight on the left wheel on a right turn because of more body roll, it will be basically the same as a car with zero body roll. What more body roll will do however is affect how the contact patch of the tyre interacts with the track surface, so with more body roll you will experience a greater change in camber due to the larger moment arm resulting in more of the weight transfer taking place through the springs and dampers as opposed to the suspension linkages. An important distinction to be made however is that changing the roll centre height on one end of the car will affect the weight transfer distribution which has a direct effect on how much grip each end of the car can produce (while maintaining the same total weight transfer). A car with lots of body roll will feel more lazy than one with little body roll.

Your testing sounds like you made the right choices with improving your setup, it's good practice to test and improve camber and pressure settings for each track and very common to run asymmetrical camber and pressure settings for tyres.

You can try stiffening your springs and anti roll bars as well and see how it affects the handling, you should feel the car become sharper and more responsive but if the track is very bumpy or there are a lot of curbs it might make the car feel too unstable and difficult to drive, so it's all about testing what you enjoy the most.

Here is a good read: http://racingcardynamics.com/weight-transfer/
http://www.formula1-dictionary.net/weight_transfer.html
http://white-smoke.wikifoundry.com/page/Lateral+Weight+Transfer


What more body roll will do however is affect how the contact patch of the tyre interacts with the track surface, so with more body roll you will experience a greater change in camber due to the larger moment arm resulting in more of the weight transfer taking place through the springs and dampers as opposed to the suspension linkages.

Yeah didnt thought off that.
What would you suggest to setup first?
I feel spring downforce -> height-> spring stiffness-> dampers->anti rollbar-> camber angle -> tirepressure
Go back to height if increased tire pressure and check again.
I am probably totally wrong about this order. But it feels like all these things effect how one should set camber angle.
i read something about inner should maximum be 5 degrees hoter then outside tire when messured in corners. Is that a good rule of thumb? I´ve read about it that trying to get even distrubution in corners for even wear.
But then again i guess it depends if its a fast track like monza or one with a lot of corners. Like monza acc, speed and break is much more important then corner speed.

Also iv´re read about downforce is more important on medium to fast corners and slow corners it have no effect almost. Is that true?

Sry to many questions at once. I saw the links went into the first one. Will take some time to understand. Thanks a lot. This game makes me understand real life physics lol. Knowledge and plessure at same time haha

takaii
05-10-2017, 08:34
http://youtu.be/lIUPYUjSNJI

;)

I most say agree a lot with this video. Understeer vs oversteer its a lot about how one like to drive.
I feel one must drive a lot or in this case in the game to get a feel for the style that suit one better.
Personally i like rear wheel car with mid engine with that is a bit neutral bit more towards oversteer.
My drivingstyle i like to go fast midcorner and oversteer wont allow me that and to much oversteer makes me slide to much
but i still want a bit oversteer to make the car turn into little slide to get through the corner.

blinkngone
05-10-2017, 10:10
Silverstone National Aston Martin Vantage GT3. Using the combination of Geared and Clutch I was able to improve by increasing preload from 120 to 140. This time is quicker than all but 1 of the McLaren 650s GT3s at this track.
241919241920

Racefancy
05-10-2017, 10:41
Yeah didnt thought off that.
What would you suggest to setup first?
I feel spring downforce -> height-> spring stiffness-> dampers->anti rollbar-> camber angle -> tirepressure
Go back to height if increased tire pressure and check again.
I am probably totally wrong about this order. But it feels like all these things effect how one should set camber angle.
i read something about inner should maximum be 5 degrees hoter then outside tire when messured in corners. Is that a good rule of thumb? I´ve read about it that trying to get even distrubution in corners for even wear.
But then again i guess it depends if its a fast track like monza or one with a lot of corners. Like monza acc, speed and break is much more important then corner speed.

Also iv´re read about downforce is more important on medium to fast corners and slow corners it have no effect almost. Is that true?

Sry to many questions at once. I saw the links went into the first one. Will take some time to understand. Thanks a lot. This game makes me understand real life physics lol. Knowledge and plessure at same time haha
No problem, happy to offer advice though always take it with a grain of salt as I will make mistakes too.

The order or setup change is a difficult one to answer and there's not one correct way, it will depend on the type of car, the type of circuit and the driver preference. In a car with a lot of downforce, for example formula car or LMP car, aerodynamics are very important, especially ride heights and your rake angle on the car. With high speed circuits such as Monza and Le Mans, reducing aerodynamic drag is very important and you will usually run the wings near the lowest settings. You will also want to set the ride height so that down the straights the car is running with a flat bottom, so there is no rake angle on the car as this reduces the amount of downforce being produced by the car and thus reduces the amount of drag. You will also want to run the car quite low to the ground however this is only a rule of thumb as some cars floors interact with the track differently to others, so it is trial and error with which ride height produces the least amount of drag. Most high downforce cars will have a "3rd Spring" or "3rd Element" option in the game, and this is the most important setting which affects your ride height and rake angle down the straight, so fiddle with these settings until you find a good range.

For medium downforce cars such as GT, the flat floor is less important but still important enough to optimise. The challenge with those cars is you generally do not have 3rd elements to help you so you must rely on your main springs to control ride height, so you need to balance them to make sure you're happy with the ride heights down a straight but also allow for good handling in corners.

With your spring selection it mostly comes down to what you feel comfortable driving with, so if you feel like the car dives forward too much under braking, the floor hits the ground under braking/accelerating, the car feels very lazy and slow to respond to your steering inputs or even if you suffer sudden snap oversteer on corner exit or sudden heavy understeer mid corner (this is usually due to too little camber for the roll angle of the car) then stiffening your springs will help. If you feel like the car is good under braking and accelerating but is slow to respond or snaps understeer/oversteer in corners then perhaps stiffer anti-roll bars is the answer. Of course, when you change these characteristics you must then check your tyre temperatures and pressures to make sure they are still in a good range because like you say these settings affect the tyres and how they are interacting with the track.

With tyre temperature spread in a corner, I think 5 degrees hotter on the inside is probably an okay ballpark to aim for, usually measuring temperatures in the middle of the corner is not something real racing teams have the privilege of knowing, and they instead aim for ~ no more than 20deg hotter on the inside shoulder vs the outside shoulder when measuring on the car after it stops in the pits. When you set tyre pressure, it's a case of ensuring a nice even spread of temperature from inside to outside of the tyre, you don't want to see the middle of the tyre hotter than the inside shoulder and you don't want to see the outside of the shoulder hotter than the middle of the tyre, and you can adjust the pressures to adjust these temperatures.

One thing to keep in mind with tyre pressures is that they are a good tuning tool on a car which already has a good setup. Don't be afraid to increase or decrease one end of the car's tyre pressures to help with a little understeer or oversteer, that's very common in racing, but changes only need to be 0.05 to 0.10 bar to make a noticeable difference.

You are correct with circuits like Monza regarding acceleration and braking being more important than cornering, so it's wise to reduce camber and toe for high speed corners to improve braking and accelerating performance, it will also reduce the chance of lockups under heavy braking which will ruin your race very quickly at tracks like Monza.

Then there's settings such as the differential, anti-dive/anti-squat/anti-lift, caster, akerman , gear ratios......it never ends.


Also iv´re read about downforce is more important on medium to fast corners and slow corners it have no effect almost. Is that true?
As a general rule, yes, downforce is proportional to the square of speed, so the faster you go, the more downforce you will produce at an exponential rate, so in a hairpin corner the benefit of a high downforce setup will be very small compared to a high speed corner. But it's important to remmeber than downforce also improves braking performance, so if the circuit has only medium length straight and slow corners it's still worth trying to run more downforce than you think in order to improve your braking performance which might end up producing a quicker lap time than a setup which is quicker on the straight but not very good under brakes. Everything is a compromise in motorsport!!

My recommendation is for you to use Jussi's setup calculator to get a good starting setup with your springs, dampers and roll bars and then fine tune the car how you like. When it comes to balancing understeer or oversteer it's the little tweaks which can help the most, so make small changes once at a time and test them, don't make lots of changes at once because you will get lost and frustrated.

hkraft300
05-10-2017, 13:27
I most say agree a lot with this video.

Check out the rest of the series on that channel. Eye-opener.


Everything is a compromise in motorsport!!

My recommendation is for you to use Jussi's setup calculator to get a good starting setup with your springs, dampers and roll bars and then fine tune the car how you like.

Highly recommended.

It'll help you get the car where you want super quick. Then it's minor adjustments and fine tuning.

Jussi Karjalainen
05-10-2017, 14:50
For aero, don't forget about rake. Makes a huge difference for aero efficiency and center of pressure location. For maximum efficiency on most cars you'd want the rear height to be at least a few millimeters higher at speed than the front. The Mojave straight is great place to test since it's essentially flat.

Then we get into the compromise business again: Do you need to raise the rear static ride height too much for stability? Maybe you can't get it high enough to begin with? Stiffening up the rear springs will mean less compression due to DF. But can you make the rest of the setup still work with those stiffer springs... =)

VelvetTorpedo
05-10-2017, 16:06
blinkngone I usually go for just the geared diff if I'm tweaking since its familiar, but I want to try your combo since you seem to be having good luck with it. The flexibility of how the diffs can perform is WILD and super interesting to me.

blinkngone
05-10-2017, 20:57
Hi Velvet Torpedo, I have had good luck with tuning the poorer performing cars(AM GT3 and Z4) using the Dynamic LSD. I've only tried 2 off the better/more popular cars and it seems to help these as well but not as dramatic a difference. I tested the AM GT3 at Brands Hatch Indy, Mojave Sidewinder and COTA Club. I don't have a lot of information but it seems to me that if you have a lot of slower corners compared to Silverstone National it works better to reduce Preload. I reduced Preload by 40 at COTA Club because of the 1st left after Start/Finish, the 2nd left which is also slow and then the esses up the hill. So high speed corners might allow more preload and a track with mixed fast and slow corners Preload might be better in the middle. If corners are really tight I need to increase coast and reduce Preload. That's all I know right now, just getting started, have fun, many more hours of entertainment in store.:cool:

moustace
05-10-2017, 22:32
Why isn't there a setup subforum for Pcars2?

Tooma
05-10-2017, 23:10
I used to use a method similar to Jezza819 but that didn't work so I added specific track abbreviations as well but that isn't 100% either. Sometimes Page 1 will save correctly but not page 2, don't know why. I could fill up this page with all the weird setup failures I have had. There have also been multiple "bug splat" crashes while testing so for a while today I was just running default and crossing fingers mostly ala ramm21. When no setups show up(only fast and loose for example or even none) on a track you know you have run many times sometimes you can retrieve them by using load then select from the track box on the left. I am going to remain hopeful this will be straightened out and PC2 will have the advantage by storing multiple setups and just to be factual after over 2 years PC1 would still have set up failures so I have nothing to lose by being patient here even if it is frustrating. Something needs to be done about the potential "shared setup function". Heck, when I go back to a track often the set up that loads is the track I was on previously not the current track so if someone came along and tried to share my set up on that/my current track they might get a set up completely unsuited for the track they are trying completely blowing the concept. I have even read where some people think they have gotten a set up from a completely different car when testing for themselves although I haven't noticed this myself. I use an asymmetric set up for Coyote Noose and if I go back to Dubai National that results in a really messed up WTF is happening run so you have to constantly check and recheck.

I am really frustrated with trying to save Edits, particularly in Career Mode, which is the worst. The number of times my fuel tank has magically refilled itself...the ride height, the TC, the tyre pressures, all re-adjusted themselves. I am quicker with TC off, so a real pain tying to do the times needed to win.

blinkngone
05-10-2017, 23:33
Sorry Tooma, I am sure SMS are going to address this as soon as possible. Frustrating, but I am still having lots of fun learning all the other new things. I don't have to deal with all the additional issues you have since I only run TT and you are trying Career so I can't feel your pain. Just try and hang in there for a while, PC1 went through growing pains too, and most have forgotten, and PC2 will grow better with time as well.

blinkngone
05-10-2017, 23:36
moustace you are on it. Roger put this here for a temporary place to discuss set ups until the new place is ready. Do you have a set up question?

Tooma
05-10-2017, 23:42
Sorry Tooma, I am sure SMS are going to address this as soon as possible. Frustrating, but I am still having lots of fun learning all the other new things. I don't have to deal with all the additional issues you have since I only run TT and you are trying Career so I can't feel your pain. Just try and hang in there for a while, PC1 went through growing pains too, and most have forgotten, and PC2 will grow better with time as well.

Thank you blinkngone. I am happy to know the problem has been recognised, and I look forward to the fix. I was wondering if it could have anything to do with my pc security not allowing info to be written - ah, but it works occasionally, then reverts back.

Do you know anything about engines stalling? I have only noticed this over the past 3/4 days. It was particularly noticeable with the Merc CLK, the E-Type, and a couple of other cars, which I have forgotten now. It happened in TT with the CLK at Knockhill - hard braking for the last corner - coming down the gears - the engine cuts - re-starts as the clutch(auto clutch) engines - and pulls the car violently to the side. Also, if I just stop on track after a spin, the engine cuts/stalls, and takes what seems like ages to restart - I usually have to put it into neutral to get it started. It ignores my starter button, and I have the starter settings at Auto. Hmmm.

blinkngone
05-10-2017, 23:50
Hi Tooma, some of the WMD members have in the past mentioned issues with overaggressive BitDefender. This is what I have as well but with so many having problems with the setups it probably isn't, this time. Maybe mad al will see this or you could PM him.

hkraft300
06-10-2017, 00:17
... The number of times my fuel tank has magically refilled itself...the ride height, the TC, the tyre pressures, all re-adjusted themselves. I am quicker with TC off, so a real pain tying to do the times needed to win.

Make sure you load your preferred setup before you hit ready to start the race. This has, in MP races for me, avoided the full tank issue.
For whatever reason the game forgets what setup to apply to the car, so just have to micro-manage.
The problem is known.


...

Do you know anything about engines stalling? I have only noticed this over the past 3/4 days. It was particularly noticeable with the Merc CLK, the E-Type, and a couple of other cars, which I have forgotten now. It happened in TT with the CLK at Knockhill - hard braking for the last corner - coming down the gears - the engine cuts - re-starts as the clutch(auto clutch) engines - and pulls the car violently to the side. Also, if I just stop on track after a spin, the engine cuts/stalls, and takes what seems like ages to restart - I usually have to put it into neutral to get it started. It ignores my starter button, and I have the starter settings at Auto. Hmmm.

More detail, the better.
You could be downshifting too fast (there is over-rev protection). Or you could also be locking the rear brakes, which stops the engine from spinning, kicks the tail out and stalls the engine.
A potential solution is adjust brake bias forward. This will prevent rear lock up, and lock the front tires instead.
Not sure exactly what's going on here but a video will help with the telemetry screen active. That way we can analyse a solution, or if it's a problem with the game, the devs can see what's going on and consider a fix/adjustment if needed.

Cobra H1
06-10-2017, 01:15
I'm driving the Mustang Boss 302R at Silverstone and having problems with the rear oversteering regardless of throttle application mid corner (odd considering I ran red bull ring in the rain previously on the stable setup pushing at 10/10 with no issue), I can't push the car past 7/10 without counter steering.

Anyway, the engineer is a pikey who only knows how to change arb and aero and the if I recall correctly the key to success to not spinning in pcars 1 was the diff and engine braking settings.

I have read through this thread but I'm just looking for a straight answer on diff tuning:
if I choose a gear driven lsd does the clutch driven lsd preload setting still control preload? or just get no setting for preload?
is there a point to enabling more than one kind of differential?

appreciate any answers

hkraft300
06-10-2017, 01:51
if I choose a gear driven lsd does the clutch driven lsd preload setting still control preload?
is there a point to enabling more than one kind of differential?

appreciate any answers

Yes and yes.
I'm still learning the feel of the new game so haven't played with the diff a lot. Search for the threads on differentials and the garage thread. Good reading :)

gressi
06-10-2017, 03:03
Hi mates, I'm new around here. Been reading this thread with interest and it made we want to take part in the thoughful dicussions and also contribute (from my experiences) if I can.

Right off the bat, I would like to say that I'm not the best at setting up cars and my understanding of setups are iffy at best. I love Project Cars and like most of you guys, am moving over from PC1. As purely a race driver, I would say my race craft is "above average" at the least.

Back in PC1 I would say, consistency in lap times was my greatest strength. My lap times would consistency be within 5 tenths of my best times (in race conditions). I had a pretty decent record in PC1 where I've won decent amount (100+) of races with a lot of poles in there as well. My achelies heal has always been on cars setups. But of all the setups parameters that I do understand and tweak plus my driving ability, I was able to consistently be at a somewhat decent disadvantage compared to the absolutely top draw drivers (in PC1). For example, at Imola (and this is strictly GT3 which is my fav class) I can consistenly get into 1:43:XXX on all cars and my best till this day is a 1:42:7XX on Merc SLS AMG.

Ok enough with the blabling. I'm on PC2 now and after a good two weeks, on a overall balance perspective, my car of choice right now is the BMW M6. I'm sticking it right now so that I can get better with it rather than jumping all over the place just to find the "quickest" option.

My fav track is the Red Bull ring at the moment and the best I've done the so far is a 1:31:9XX. Basically my setups only go as far as the following:
- Wings
- Tyre pressure
- Air intake (brakes and radiators)
- Some gearing (noob stuff)
- Tyres (not really sure if Soft is faster than Hard, can't tell much of a diffrence)

I will post my full setups shortly. Just looking for pointers.

On and most importantly, I drive with an xbox one controller (I know right). Maybe getting a wheel soon but it depends :(

Therefore, I don't really have any sense of feel for the cars. I is more of what I see of how the cars is behaving. So I'm at a disadvantage, no?

Thanks and peace to you all.

Wayne Kerr
06-10-2017, 04:01
Make sure you load your preferred setup before you hit ready to start the race. This has, in MP races for me, avoided the full tank issue.


how'd you get it to work, because i tried that a bunch of times and while the SET may have loaded properly, the tank was certainly to the brim.

10 lap race at DIS and what should've loaded was 35L and I got 70 instead.

hkraft300
06-10-2017, 07:10
how'd you get it to work,

So far only in lobbies with a "ready" screen.

blinkngone
06-10-2017, 08:32
I'm driving the Mustang Boss 302R at Silverstone and having problems with the rear oversteering regardless of throttle application mid corner (odd considering I ran red bull ring in the rain previously on the stable setup pushing at 10/10 with no issue), I can't push the car past 7/10 without counter steering.

Anyway, the engineer is a pikey who only knows how to change arb and aero and the if I recall correctly the key to success to not spinning in pcars 1 was the diff and engine braking settings.

I have read through this thread but I'm just looking for a straight answer on diff tuning:
if I choose a gear driven lsd does the clutch driven lsd preload setting still control preload? or just get no setting for preload?
is there a point to enabling more than one kind of differential?

appreciate any answers

Hi, I only run TT and so far just Silverstone National of the Silverstone tracks. There are no times posted for this track in TT for the 302R. I tried both default set ups and the car oversteered badly for me. I started tweaking some parameters and I have a more usable initial set up. I have attached the comparison in lap times. Would you mind running a TT lap at Silverstone National so I can see if I am going in the right direction?
242015

Moonfast
06-10-2017, 08:48
I must ask this. Maybe I'm blind or just stupid. When I tell the race engineer that my Porsche Cayman GT4 is understeering throughout the corners, they suggest stiffening the rear anti-roll bars. Which I accept. But what I don't understand is if I try to do it manually in the "Edit Setup" section, there is no anti-roll bars sliders at all. What have I missed?

Tom_2475221
06-10-2017, 09:21
Hey guys,

I keep experiencing the following:

With the GT3 Lamborghini, the car continuously keeps going into a rear left / rear right tire skid during a high speed corner. The tires create a continuous smoke trail and overheat close to 110°C...
The car still feels very stable and there's mostly no skid sound either.

There's no excessive cornering or aggressive handling or so, it seems like I always have to slow down way more to take such corners then you normally would.

I tried all kinds of tweaks like softer anti-roll bars, lower tires pressures, different camber- and toe settings, but the problem keeps coming back.
Default setup has the same problem.

A nice example is the curva parabolica at Monza, or the first high speed chicane at dubai GP (turns 2 and 3).

(on PS4)
Thanks for the help!

blinkngone
06-10-2017, 09:21
I must ask this. Maybe I'm blind or just stupid. When I tell the race engineer that my Porsche Cayman GT4 is understeering throughout the corners, they suggest stiffening the rear anti-roll bars. Which I accept. But what I don't understand is if I try to do it manually in the "Edit Setup" section, there is no anti-roll bars sliders at all. What have I missed?

It's a generic response from the Race Engineer, while most cars have them some don't.

blinkngone
06-10-2017, 09:25
McLaren P1 GTR COTA Club, basically the Silverstone National settings except moved Brake Bias toward rear. This is the Dynamic(Geared and Clutch) while the default is a different Dynamic(Clutch and Viscous).
242019

tonaz
06-10-2017, 09:42
Hello everybody, i need a little help with the Mustang GT4 setup.
I play against 90% AI, and in previous tournaments i won, even if fighting hard, enjoying and having lot of fun.
But with this Mustang GT4 i am hopeless, 2 seconds slower.
Thanks a lot for any kind help.

blinkngone
06-10-2017, 09:50
Squirrel! Lucky me.:cool: McLaren P1 GTR, people this is my first car where I could go from track to track without major changes. The only change so far is Brake Bias at COTA Club. 3 tracks 3 WRs. This might be a good "basic" set up for the P1 GTR.
242027
242028

hkraft300
06-10-2017, 10:49
With the GT3 Lamborghini, the car continuously keeps going into a rear left / rear right tire skid during a high speed corner. The tires create a continuous smoke trail and overheat close to 110°C...


Track+ambient might be too hot for soft tires. Have you tried hard tires?

Also, if it's a high speed oversteer issue you may want more rear wing.
Could also be a different issue: inside rear spinning = diff too loose?


I must ask this. Maybe I'm blind or just stupid. When I tell the race engineer that my Porsche Cayman GT4 is understeering throughout the corners, they suggest stiffening the rear anti-roll bars. Which I accept. But what I don't understand is if I try to do it manually in the "Edit Setup" section, there is no anti-roll bars sliders at all. What have I missed?

If you can't adjust rear sway bar you may want to increase rear spring. Personally: I'd soften front springs to add more front grip before I take away rear grip.

blinkngone
06-10-2017, 10:56
Hello everybody, i need a little help with the Mustang GT4 setup.
I play against 90% AI, and in previous tournaments i won, even if fighting hard, enjoying and having lot of fun.
But with this Mustang GT4 i am hopeless, 2 seconds slower.
Thanks a lot for any kind help.

Which one, there are 2. I haven't driven this GT before but I made some changes to the default settings, attached results.
242032

Moonfast
06-10-2017, 11:21
It's a generic response from the Race Engineer, while most cars have them some don't.

I see! Thank you! And I was blind, I found it now!

Tom_2475221
06-10-2017, 12:58
Track+ambient might be too hot for soft tires. Have you tried hard tires?

Also, if it's a high speed oversteer issue you may want more rear wing.
Could also be a different issue: inside rear spinning = diff too loose?

I could try hard tires see if that helps.
But I doubt it comes from a differential setting cause it seems like it's not a traction issue,
but more like the weight putting too much stress on one side during a high speed corner. Even with a soft spring and anti-roll bar setup.
It's the outer rear wheel that drags along and creating a smoke trail.

it also seems to be happening at pretty much every high speed corner on every track so far even with different track and ambient temps, and only with the GT3 Huracán without pushing too hard to the limit ...

Thanks!!

blinkngone
06-10-2017, 14:24
[QUOTE=Tom_2475221;1385690]I could try hard tires see if that helps. YES, hard tires most of the time.

But I doubt it comes from a differential setting cause it seems like it's not a traction issue,
but more like the weight putting too much stress on one side during a high speed corner.

Even with a soft spring and anti-roll bar setup.It's the outer rear wheel that drags along and creating a smoke trail. HEY Tom, I found for the track I am running the rear springs were too soft.

it also seems to be happening at pretty much every high speed corner on every track so far even with different track and ambient temps, and only with the GT3 Huracán without pushing too hard to the limit ...


The Huracan is not used much yet. One of the issues I have with it seems to be that the car needs lots of preload on the Clutch LSD. Attached is my LSD try this. Sorry I am only in 2nd at the moment so everything Huracan is new to me.
242054

cpcdem
06-10-2017, 16:30
Hi, I only run TT and so far just Silverstone National of the Silverstone tracks. There are no times posted for this track in TT for the 302R. I tried both default set ups and the car oversteered badly for me. I started tweaking some parameters and I have a more usable initial set up. I have attached the comparison in lap times. Would you mind running a TT lap at Silverstone National so I can see if I am going in the right direction?


I managed a 1.01.5 with default setup, so I'd suggest to get more used to the car first, before dealing much with tuning, which might be making the car slower actually (like most of my own "tunes" :) ). Indeed very oversteery car, needed much getting used to and unfortunately my FFB didn't give me much info about when the rear is about to slip. What I found that helps is very gentle steering input, never turn it too much, and be very easy on the throttle.

I'm by no means an expert, especially in such a car, so I am sure other people can come up with much better lap time and advice, but my own driving tips are those two: 1.In the tight corner that acts as a "shortcut" between the 2 parts of the GP layout, you can and must go more quickly back on the throttle, just as it begins to open up. Also don't go that wide early. 2. In Brooklands corner after the Wellington straight, you are going too tight, too early. This is a corner that's wide first and then tightens a lot, so you need to take it much wider first, so the second part becomes straighter.

I am sure if you follow the above 2, your laptime will improve a lot already. Later a better setup I guess will further help as well.

Edit: Oops! I just now noticed your Steam stats, hours played etc...I think you can safely completely ignore my driving tips :)

blinkngone
06-10-2017, 19:45
I managed a 1.01.5 with default setup, so I'd suggest to get more used to the car first, before dealing much with tuning, which might be making the car slower actually (like most of my own "tunes" :) ). Indeed very oversteery car, needed much getting used to and unfortunately my FFB didn't give me much info about when the rear is about to slip. What I found that helps is very gentle steering input, never turn it too much, and be very easy on the throttle.

I'm by no means an expert, especially in such a car, so I am sure other people can come up with much better lap time and advice, but my own driving tips are those two: 1.In the tight corner that acts as a "shortcut" between the 2 parts of the GP layout, you can and must go more quickly back on the throttle, just as it begins to open up. Also don't go that wide early. 2. In Brooklands corner after the Wellington straight, you are going too tight, too early. This is a corner that's wide first and then tightens a lot, so you need to take it much wider first, so the second part becomes straighter.

I am sure if you follow the above 2, your laptime will improve a lot already. Later a better setup I guess will further help as well.

Edit: Oops! I just now noticed your Steam stats, hours played etc...I think you can safely completely ignore my driving tips :)

Hey cpcdem, I am trying to come up with a braking solution, this is one of my issues with this car. I don't have a very good brake set up so I can't predict very well what is going to happen, another reason I am missing corner entry like you pointed out. I don't see how I can cut a second off this car's time here. That would be quicker than your Mustang RTR WR. Isn't the RTR normally quicker than the Boss 302R? Oh, well, I'll give another try later.

242067

cpcdem
06-10-2017, 20:25
Hey cpcdem, I am trying to come up with a braking solution, this is one of my issues with this car. I don't have a very good brake set up so I can't predict very well what is going to happen, another reason I am missing corner entry like you pointed out. I don't see how I can cut a second off this car's time here. That would be quicker than your Mustang RTR WR. Isn't the RTR normally quicker than the Boss 302R? Oh, well, I'll give another try later.
242067

Me too, I'm on standard DFGT pedals, not really a good feel...For the 302R I was just doing almost all the braking with the wheel straight, otherwise I had the same problem. I think I had also brought the bias to the front 4-5 clicks, I have assigned that to buttons on the wheel, so I don't need to use the normal setup screen just for that. I see you've now shattered my record with the 302R, will make an attempt to get it back!

blinkngone
06-10-2017, 20:32
Me too, I'm on standard DFGT pedals, not really a good feel...For the 302R I was just doing almost all the braking with the wheel straight, otherwise I had the same problem. I think I had also brought the bias to the front 4-5 clicks, I have assigned that to buttons on the wheel, so I don't need to use the normal setup screen just for that. I see you've now shattered my record with the 302R, will make an attempt to get it back!

Cool, sorry, somehow I ended up with too much camber. With no camber in the rear the excessive front camber was causing too much front grip overcoming the rear making it susceptible to oversteer.
242070
Pretty good but your 1:00.335 with the RTR looks far away.

cpcdem
06-10-2017, 20:35
Ok enough with the blabling. I'm on PC2 now and after a good two weeks, on a overall balance perspective, my car of choice right now is the BMW M6. I'm sticking it right now so that I can get better with it rather than jumping all over the place just to find the "quickest" option.

My fav track is the Red Bull ring at the moment and the best I've done the so far is a 1:31:9XX. Basically my setups only go as far as the following:
- Wings
- Tyre pressure
- Air intake (brakes and radiators)
- Some gearing (noob stuff)
- Tyres (not really sure if Soft is faster than Hard, can't tell much of a diffrence)

I will post my full setups shortly. Just looking for pointers.

On and most importantly, I drive with an xbox one controller (I know right). Maybe getting a wheel soon but it depends :(


I followed your ghost to have a look and I think you're losing time in mainly 2 places:
1. First corner, this is more high speed than it seems, need to carry more speed through it and hit the gas earlier
2. The two fast left handlers in the infield (correct word?) part of the track. I think you need to get more wide before turning for the first one, then turn fast to hit the left kerbs (later apex than what you do), full throttle and then almost in a straight line to the right ones. Same for the second turn and you will save a lot of time.

Btw, I noticed that you are running zero front downforce. Not absolutely sure, but I think this is causing you trouble in those fast corners.

Edit: Yeah, don't know about the gamepad, if and how much this is slowing you down. To me it seems I would have a very hard time with one, but then again there are some very fast gamepad drivers..

blinkngone
06-10-2017, 20:48
cpcdem, you're needed on the track.;) You know, I think you can get some more speed out of this setup yourself. If it's all the same to you I am going to turn it over to you, you have the keys.
242071

I have to ask, why did you pick this car to work on over the Cayman or Aston Martin?

cpcdem
06-10-2017, 21:28
Cool, sorry, somehow I ended up with too much camber. With no camber in the rear the excessive front camber was causing too much front grip overcoming the rear making it susceptible to oversteer.

Pretty good but your 1:00.335 with the RTR looks far away.

Well, it's only 1 tenth better than your time with the same car! But yeah, I first did the TT with the 302R, so when I switched to the RTR, it felt very easy!

Thanks, will try your 302R setup and see how I go. I wanted to get more serious with setups, too, but I am struggling a bit, when I am making some change I don't really feel the difference I would expect so far. Except for the very basic stuff, like downforce and brake bias which do have very noticeable results.

blinkngone
06-10-2017, 21:33
Well, it's only 1 tenth better than your time with the same car! But yeah, I first did the TT with the 302R, so when I switched to the RTR, it felt very easy!

Thanks, will try your 302R setup and see how I go. I wanted to get more serious with setups, too, but I am struggling a bit, when I am making some change I don't really feel the difference I would expect so far. Except for the very basic stuff, like downforce and brake bias which do have very noticeable results.

Look, Cayman 4th, complete bs set up I was power sliding through the corners. Go ahead and use my set up and follow my ghost.:cool:
242075
Go ahead and run your 302R then let's work on the Cayman, ok?

Tooma
06-10-2017, 21:33
Hi Tooma, some of the WMD members have in the past mentioned issues with overaggressive BitDefender. This is what I have as well but with so many having problems with the setups it probably isn't, this time. Maybe mad al will see this or you could PM him.

I don't know what a "BitDefender" is blinkngone - looks technical, and I know little about the workings of PCs, and I have not come across mad al yet. I shall be patient for the fix. I do appreciate your response, and thank you.

Tooma
06-10-2017, 21:51
Make sure you load your preferred setup before you hit ready to start the race. This has, in MP races for me, avoided the full tank issue.
For whatever reason the game forgets what setup to apply to the car, so just have to micro-manage.
The problem is known.



More detail, the better.
You could be downshifting too fast (there is over-rev protection). Or you could also be locking the rear brakes, which stops the engine from spinning, kicks the tail out and stalls the engine.
A potential solution is adjust brake bias forward. This will prevent rear lock up, and lock the front tires instead.
Not sure exactly what's going on here but a video will help with the telemetry screen active. That way we can analyse a solution, or if it's a problem with the game, the devs can see what's going on and consider a fix/adjustment if needed.

Hi hkraft. I have triple and quadruple checked and repeated saving settings - it would be neat if there was a window confirming settings had been saved - including handling one adjustment at a time for each the cars categories of settings. It did work most of the time up until about 4/5 days ago - I did not check they were sticking so often as I do now, mind you. You are the second person to tell me it is a known problem, so that is good.

Regarding the engine stalls - that is a recent delight too. I have tried slowing the downshifts - still cuts out, it makes the cars more manageable, but slow.... Could it be connected to engine braking - I never made any adjustments for that, but the default settings may need sorting - what do you think? I have not moved the brake bias in the cars giving me the problem, so I shall try that - if it will save the settings - lol. Almost zero settings are saved in Career and TT now. As for showing you a video, I'm trying to sus out how to do that - sorry. Ahh, I just remembered about GForce save tool - not used that yet. I'll see what I can do.

Thank you v much for your response. :)

cpcdem
06-10-2017, 22:09
Go ahead and run your 302R then let's work on the Cayman, ok?

Hey, that's why I love time trials, it's so much fun and challenging trying to beat other people's times. I gave it another try with the default setup again in the 302R to make sure I get the most of it, before I use your setup, and I had some success :)

242078

I did need to set brake bias to 58-42 though, this way I could trail brake relatively easily in low speed. Ah and I was completely wrong about the first tight corner, your line was just fine, that's what I used now as well. The other time saver was taking the first corner in 4th gear..

Will now try again with your setup and compare, will also try the Cayman afterwards.

Edit: SUCCESS! I just did a 1.00.161 with your 302R setup and there's clearly more room for improvement!
But as a good driver does with his mechanic, let me give you some more feedback :) :

At first, I was actually at the exact same speed as with the default setup, but a lot more consistent. Previously I could do a lap at 1.00.5 but in the next 5 laps I would spin, then another good lap, then spins etc. With your setup I was consistent at about the same time in every single lap. But there was a problem, it was obvious that I was losing much traction when I was accelerating out of the slow corners. I played a bit with the differential, experimented with various values for the Power Bias and ended up with 1.5:1 (I think you had 0.8:1) which seems to be a good compromise, requires some more fighting with the wheel, but has good acceleration out of corners, hence the 0.5 sec gained.

Love your magic...got any for the GT3s as well? :)

blinkngone
06-10-2017, 23:33
Holy Cow! cpcdem, you are 6th overall in the GT4 class with a Boss 302. The Boss 302 is widely regarded as the slowest of the GT4's(see all the threads about a BOP for the GT4's). Great Job! Glad you figured out the differential. I never went back and adjusted it once I fixed my camber problem, getting older. Let's see how you do with the Cayman. What GT3 were you considering?

Uh oh, I see you are 3rd already with the Cayman, at default no less. They aren't going to be liking you very much.

Ok, bumped you, I'm in 3rd you are 4th.

cpcdem
07-10-2017, 00:27
Holy Cow! cpcdem, you are 6th overall in the GT4 class with a Boss 302. The Boss 302 is widely regarded as the slowest of the GT4's(see all the threads about a BOP for the GT4's). Great Job! Glad you figured out the differential. I never went back and adjusted it once I fixed my camber problem, getting older. Let's see how you do with the Cayman. What GT3 were you considering?

Uh oh, I see you are 3rd already with the Cayman, at default no less. They aren't going to be liking you very much.

Ok, bumped you, I'm in 3rd you are 4th.

Ah, that's why you asked me before why I picked the 302, instead of the Cayman or Aston Martin? Had not realized it's part of the general GT4 discussion, just saw a message here about TT with the 302R in Silverstone/National and thought to give it a try, since I am a TT freak :). Then I tried some other cars in the same track.

Good job with the Cayman! Yeah, first I try it with Default to see how fast I can go with that, before trying a custom setup. Will do that in the weekend.

About GT3s, I usually drive the Ferrari in multiplayer, since it is the easiest car to avoid major spins for several laps :) But I just realized you have already presented tunes for many of the GT3s in this thread earlier, will take a closer look, thanks!

Cobra H1
07-10-2017, 01:04
Hi, I only run TT and so far just Silverstone National of the Silverstone tracks. There are no times posted for this track in TT for the 302R. I tried both default set ups and the car oversteered badly for me. I started tweaking some parameters and I have a more usable initial set up. I have attached the comparison in lap times. Would you mind running a TT lap at Silverstone National so I can see if I am going in the right direction?
What layout are you running? are you running soft or hard slicks? I'll turn some laps tonight when I get home from work to compare.

That said I tried tuning for extreme understeer last night (hard front, stupid soft rear, arb in rear at 0, no engine brake, diff with max amount of lock on decel) and I still kept losing the rear of the car mid corner. I've also made sure to lay off the brakes before corner entry to ensure it's not the rear brakes locking up.

Maybe I'm giving it too much input, but experience tells me a front heavy car would have the front end plow rather than the rear snap....

blinkngone
07-10-2017, 01:27
What layout are you running? are you running soft or hard slicks? I'll turn some laps tonight when I get home from work to compare.

That said I tried tuning for extreme understeer last night (hard front, stupid soft rear, arb in rear at 0, no engine brake, diff with max amount of lock on decel) and I still kept losing the rear of the car mid corner. I've also made sure to lay off the brakes before corner entry to ensure it's not the rear brakes locking up.

Maybe I'm giving it too much input, but experience tells me a front heavy car would have the front end plow rather than the rear snap....

Hi Cobra, we are testing at Silverstone National go ahead and use cpdem's set up, it's mine with his adjustments for Brake Bias and LSD but I have been adjusting blinkngone so his is safer. You have to use hard slicks.

FYI, the 302 has too much front camber for this track. It has no rear camber adjustment so it's almost impossible to control the oversteer. I reduced the front camber, that is when it finally started to work. If you have time look at all the changes I made to the dampers to get some control back. You still have to be careful but cpcdem has managed it.

blinkngone
07-10-2017, 01:31
Ah, that's why you asked me before why I picked the 302, instead of the Cayman or Aston Martin? Had not realized it's part of the general GT4 discussion, just saw a message here about TT with the 302R in Silverstone/National and thought to give it a try, since I am a TT freak :). Then I tried some other cars in the same track.

Good job with the Cayman! Yeah, first I try it with Default to see how fast I can go with that, before trying a custom setup. Will do that in the weekend.

About GT3s, I usually drive the Ferrari in multiplayer, since it is the easiest car to avoid major spins for several laps :) But I just realized you have already presented tunes for many of the GT3s in this thread earlier, will take a closer look, thanks!

Hi cpcdem, I adjusted the Cayman set up it's in 2nd now 0.057 from 1st. I think you can handle that.:D
242094

Cobra H1
07-10-2017, 08:27
Hi Cobra, we are testing at Silverstone National go ahead and use cpdem's set up, it's mine with his adjustments for Brake Bias and LSD but I have been adjusting blinkngone so his is safer. You have to use hard slicks.

FYI, the 302 has too much front camber for this track. It has no rear camber adjustment so it's almost impossible to control the oversteer. I reduced the front camber, that is when it finally started to work. If you have time look at all the changes I made to the dampers to get some control back. You still have to be careful but cpcdem has managed it.

I downloaded your tune and cheers to you mate, I was able trail brake and toss the car into the long corners without losing it.

only change I made were setting traction control to 15% and used 2.0:1 accel on the diff for slightly better response on corner exit.

Oddly enough it did feel different in career mode compared to time trial, in time trial it was planted the whole way through but in career mode it still had a tendency to oversteer (used hard for race and soft for quali, applied to both), unsure if it's difference in track surface but I can't say I paid attention to that.

blinkngone
07-10-2017, 09:43
I downloaded your tune and cheers to you mate, I was able trail brake and toss the car into the long corners without losing it.

only change I made were setting traction control to 15% and used 2.0:1 accel on the diff for slightly better response on corner exit.

Oddly enough it did feel different in career mode compared to time trial, in time trial it was planted the whole way through but in career mode it still had a tendency to oversteer (used hard for race and soft for quali, applied to both), unsure if it's difference in track surface but I can't say I paid attention to that.

Hi Cobra H1, I'm glad both of you were able to do so well, each of you made your own changes to suit your driving style. Thanks for the information, I am continuing to work on it, it's probably the difference in track temp and the fact you have less rubber on track in career compared to TT.

Tom_2475221
07-10-2017, 12:34
[QUOTE=Tom_2475221;1385690]I could try hard tires see if that helps. YES, hard tires most of the time.

But I doubt it comes from a differential setting cause it seems like it's not a traction issue,
but more like the weight putting too much stress on one side during a high speed corner.

Even with a soft spring and anti-roll bar setup.It's the outer rear wheel that drags along and creating a smoke trail. HEY Tom, I found for the track I am running the rear springs were too soft.

it also seems to be happening at pretty much every high speed corner on every track so far even with different track and ambient temps, and only with the GT3 Huracán without pushing too hard to the limit ...


The Huracan is not used much yet. One of the issues I have with it seems to be that the car needs lots of preload on the Clutch LSD. Attached is my LSD try this. Sorry I am only in 2nd at the moment so everything Huracan is new to me.
242054

Thanks man, I will try this!

Racefancy
07-10-2017, 12:55
Couldn't help but get involved your your Cayman Silverstone time trials, that's a fun car in this game but wow talk about a taily beast with the default setup. Managed to reign it in a bit and get a 58.5 in but need to have the thing by the throat to get it there.

blinkngone
07-10-2017, 13:08
Couldn't help but get involved your your Cayman Silverstone time trials, that's a fun car in this game but wow talk about a taily beast with the default setup. Managed to reign it in a bit and get a 58.5 in but need to have the thing by the throat to get it there.

Cool.:cool: Are you Ospi? More the merrier. Let's see what cpcdem can do when he wakes up.:D I don't think anyone is really pushing this car yet.

In PC1 the Ginetta ran a best of 56.732(ASR@Feynman) so we are still off. I just started on the Ginetta here(TBH I never got along with this car in PC1, my PB was 58.001). I don't think we can get there but maybe someone can get the Cayman into the 57's(Goal).
242129

blinkngone
07-10-2017, 14:43
Mojave Sidewinder-Porsche Cayman no changes to Silverstone National so I think there is plenty to be gained here. WR from PC1 is the Ginetta at 1:03.163, so the PC2 GT4's will be closer to PC1 performance at this track. I am faster here with the C7.R than I was in PC1.
242133

bd307
07-10-2017, 20:10
Need some serious help here with saving tuning car setups in career mode with Ps4 pro. Been driving me nuts not be able to save a new setup with wet tires (all suspension setups remain the same except putting on wet tires).

Been trying to save this setup in many different ways but it keeps on kicking me back to the Enter Setup Name pop-up window.

Is this a bug or just me? Can't play this race without wet tires!

GLR Viper58
07-10-2017, 21:26
Would appreciate any setup help on the Clio at brands hatch. Whether setup or technique I am totally unable to keep the back end under me through Paddock hill. I solved similar trouble in Surtees with setup changes but to no avail in turn 1. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Jakubs11
07-10-2017, 21:36
What are the best settings for GT3 cars in the multiplayers races? (brakes or others)

MuddyPaws73
07-10-2017, 21:42
I have found the default loose settings to be very acceptable. I did change the brake bias so that it is only slightly bias to the front, since I have a bad habit of locking up the front brakes.

You can always do some time trials with the car and track you like, pick a ghost and save their settings to see what they have done.

Dynomight Motorsports
07-10-2017, 21:53
What is the "loose" setup up everyone is talking about?
I kind of wish they would have a "Classic Mode" in the setup screen as I understood how to setup the rear end and dampers. I don't understand the Differential settings no matter how many times I read Jussi's explanation of them, nor do I understand the transitional settings on the dampers. I know small adjustments with the diff setting can make the car completely un-driveable. "Ask the Engineer" doesn't really touch any of this stuff. Perhaps if the Engineer setting addressed Dampers, balance, and Diff settings I would understand better how the adjustments effect the car.

Roger Prynne
07-10-2017, 21:54
The different setups are not included on the consoles at the moment but are coming in a patch soon.

blinkngone
08-10-2017, 00:03
Need some serious help here with saving tuning car setups in career mode with Ps4 pro. Been driving me nuts not be able to save a new setup with wet tires (all suspension setups remain the same except putting on wet tires).

Been trying to save this setup in many different ways but it keeps on kicking me back to the Enter Setup Name pop-up window.

Is this a bug or just me? Can't play this race without wet tires!

Sorry dude.:blue: There is another thread in "General" about this, I haven't seen any solutions yet.

blinkngone
08-10-2017, 00:24
Would appreciate any setup help on the Clio at brands hatch. Whether setup or technique I am totally unable to keep the back end under me through Paddock hill. I solved similar trouble in Surtees with setup changes but to no avail in turn 1. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

GLR Viper58, are you not allowed to try others peoples set ups on XBOX1? This would save you time if it's possible.

blinkngone
08-10-2017, 00:48
What is the "loose" setup up everyone is talking about?
I kind of wish they would have a "Classic Mode" in the setup screen as I understood how to setup the rear end and dampers. I don't understand the Differential settings no matter how many times I read Jussi's explanation of them, nor do I understand the transitional settings on the dampers. I know small adjustments with the diff setting can make the car completely un-driveable. "Ask the Engineer" doesn't really touch any of this stuff. Perhaps if the Engineer setting addressed Dampers, balance, and Diff settings I would understand better how the adjustments effect the car.

Ferrari GT3-Donington National. This could change car to car and track to track, other tweaks to TC and ABS can occur but the LSD and Suspension are the big ones.
Loose LSD
242156
Stable LSD(see power ramp increases for stable/less aggressive, just as engineer describes)
242157
Loose Suspension(see roll bars set for Oversteer)
242158
Stable Suspension(see roll bars set for Understeer)
242159

Tooma
08-10-2017, 01:25
Hi hkraft. I have triple and quadruple checked and repeated saving settings - it would be neat if there was a window confirming settings had been saved - including handling one adjustment at a time for each the cars categories of settings. It did work most of the time up until about 4/5 days ago - I did not check they were sticking so often as I do now, mind you. You are the second person to tell me it is a known problem, so that is good.

Regarding the engine stalls - that is a recent delight too. I have tried slowing the downshifts - still cuts out, it makes the cars more manageable, but slow.... Could it be connected to engine braking - I never made any adjustments for that, but the default settings may need sorting - what do you think? I have not moved the brake bias in the cars giving me the problem, so I shall try that - if it will save the settings - lol. Almost zero settings are saved in Career and TT now. As for showing you a video, I'm trying to sus out how to do that - sorry. Ahh, I just remembered about GForce save tool - not used that yet. I'll see what I can do.

Thank you v much for your response. :)

Hi again.

Re the engine stalling - I think that problem is sorted now. I say, think, because the fix may not stick. Anyways, I had got to thinking it must be something to do with the automatic clutch not working, as I had discovered I could restart easily if I depressed the clutch and pressed the starter button. I had checked, twice, that the Auto Clutch was set to "On", but earlier tonight I was having the same problem - braking for corners and the engine cutting out as I came down the gears, then the car getting pulled strongly sideways when the engine re-engaged with the momentum of the car - it really is amazing to have this level of detail in a game. Using the clutch, even with the sequential pads helped, but far from ideal. So, I had yet another look at the settings, and this time the Auto Clutch was set to "Off" - I switched it on - run the car again, and the problem was gone. Here's hoping it stays fixed. Thanks again. :)

winet
08-10-2017, 01:42
Ferrari GT3-Donington National. This could change car to car and track to track, other tweaks to TC and ABS can occur but the LSD and Suspension are the big ones.
Loose LSD
242156
Stable LSD(see power ramp increases for stable/less aggressive, just as engineer describes)
242157
Loose Suspension(see roll bars set for Oversteer)
242158
Stable Suspension(see roll bars set for Understeer)
242159

Overall love the game and for me the setup page configuration in PC2 is a big improvement over PC1. However the need to post screen shots to share setups on the PC vs downloading a setup file is very disappointing to me. I realize this is not possible on console versions but most PC racing games have this option available.

cpcdem
08-10-2017, 09:15
only change I made were setting traction control to 15% and used 2.0:1 accel on the diff for slightly better response on corner exit.


Very good point! Thanks, used 12% and now I can go must faster on throttle, also decreased the coast dif for more agility under braking. Just managed a 59.7 and there's potential for more using this setup, slightly modified from the one that blinkngone
provides us with. Ah, and the car feels consistent and stable enough as well.

Now off to try his setup for the Cayman! Sorry, could not do that earlier, real life getting in the way of a nice track day/engineering session :)

Johngrim
08-10-2017, 09:26
A quick question....In the setup screen when adjusting for example front and rear weight bias .Which is the front of the car? Is it the left or right of the screen.I presumed it was left is the front so moving the slider to the left increases front weight bias but now I'm not sure as the brake bias seems to be reversed .

hkraft300
08-10-2017, 10:12
Moving brake bias for greater "left" %-age is pushing brake bias "forward". Same for weight distribution.

Johngrim
08-10-2017, 10:27
When driving gt3 and you click the increase brake balance button the brake balance goes down it is the reverse of what should happen !has anybody else noticed this?

Roger Prynne
08-10-2017, 10:30
^ Yep known issue and will be fixed soon.

blinkngone
08-10-2017, 10:40
Uh oh.
242183

Racefancy
08-10-2017, 10:42
That's a cracking time, I don't think I have 2 more tenths in me! I'll have to work a little more on my setup.

blinkngone
08-10-2017, 10:46
That's a cracking time, I don't think I have 2 more tenths in me! I'll have to work a little more on my setup.
No s**t.:D He is really quick! I think he will be in the 57's when he's done.

cpcdem
08-10-2017, 11:11
No s**t.:D He is really quick! I think he will be in the 57's when he's done.

Thanks :). But I'm sure if someone of the aliens attempts the same combo, they will destroy my time though..

Arghh, too bad the ghost didn't upload. I gained 1 tenth from Ospi's time in the first fast corner (more speed through it) and another tenth in the second corner, got a slightly better exit. Apart from that, I think we were going at the exact same speed for the rest of the track.

I also thought with your setup I would be able to go in the 57's, but unfortunately it hasn't worked for me so far, I feel the car a little unstable now under braking and it is also not turning for me as easily as before in the fast corners. Maybe I was just too used to the default setup and now I cannot use yours to full extent. Will try again a little later though and will get back to you.

Thanks for all that fun we are having with those tests!

hkraft300
08-10-2017, 11:44
^ Yep known issue and will be fixed soon.

Not only in GT3!
I think the menu item says increase/decrease bias from memory. It should maybe say increase front/increase rear bias?

I thought I got the button map wrong.
Swapped it and it's fine :D

blinkngone
08-10-2017, 12:30
Thanks :). But I'm sure if someone of the aliens attempts the same combo, they will destroy my time though..

Arghh, too bad the ghost didn't upload. I gained 1 tenth from Ospi's time in the first fast corner (more speed through it) and another tenth in the second corner, got a slightly better exit. Apart from that, I think we were going at the exact same speed for the rest of the track.

I also thought with your setup I would be able to go in the 57's, but unfortunately it hasn't worked for me so far, I feel the car a little unstable now under braking and it is also not turning for me as easily as before in the fast corners. Maybe I was just too used to the default setup and now I cannot use yours to full extent. Will try again a little later though and will get back to you.

Thanks for all that fun we are having with those tests!

Hi cpcdem, sorry about the set up, the one you got wasn't the one I set my time with. I thought you were over working on your GT3's so I was running some experiments with the Cayman, I'll fix it. The problem with set up sharing is that you get the last set up I ran.

I set the Ford GT GT3 in 1st for you, the keys are in the car go run some tests while I work on the Cayman.:D

Ospi and cpcdem if you guys have some time would you mind running the Ginetta GT4 for me? I am the only one who has made a run with this car and I need some additional information. Thanks.

nepal roade
08-10-2017, 12:46
whoever said set aero as close to zero as possible, LOL. :D


I did and it is correct. That is the way to setup the cars suspension first before touching downforce. If the OP followed the guide as suggested then at a much later stage the aero would be adjusted. I just didn't specify that in my post. :rolleyes:
It's an unusual spelling, but at least your name suits your attitude. :p

blinkngone
08-10-2017, 12:54
Hi cpcdem and Ospi, fixed it. You guys can add more power in the LSD, I have it conservative at the moment.
242184
242185

Roger Prynne
08-10-2017, 12:58
Not only in GT3!
I think the menu item says increase/decrease bias from memory. It should maybe say increase front/increase rear bias?

I thought I got the button map wrong.
Swapped it and it's fine :D

Yep we know.

cpcdem
08-10-2017, 13:36
Hi cpcdem, sorry about the set up, the one you got wasn't the one I set my time with. I thought you were over working on your GT3's so I was running some experiments with the Cayman, I'll fix it. The problem with set up sharing is that you get the last set up I ran.


Ahhh, that explains it then, I was checking the other day in the GT3s some of the setups from people with the top times to get ideas, but their setups did not make any sense to me at all and I was left wondering how on earth they did a top time with that. So obviously people are abusing this design detail and on purpose misguide others about the setups they use, like some people also did in videos in PCARS 1. Unfortunately this makes the feature of including the setups in TT obsolete, hope SMS can change the way this works, to avoid such abuse.



I set the Ford GT GT3 in 1st for you, the keys are in the car go run some tests while I work on the Cayman.:D

Ospi and cpcdem if you guys have some time would you mind running the Ginetta GT4 for me? I am the only one who has made a run with this car and I need some additional information. Thanks.

Will give it a quick go with the Ginetta now, but will spend some more time later tonight. And thanks for the Ford GT, haven't tried this before, but will do with your setup!

Edit: Just managed a 59.0, but there's enough potential still left in that time. Default setup, but increased brake bias on the fly to 60-40, otherwise I was losing the rear too much under braking.

blinkngone
08-10-2017, 15:44
Thanks cpcdem! I guess the Ginetta is causing people problems at this track, thanks for those who gave it a try. I am going to work on it some more. Thanks [VSR]Jeff[NL] for joining! This is one of the tightest top 5 groupings I have seen for the Cayman.
242187
Ok, if you are going to use my set up make sure you get "Caymansilnat77", I have deleted all other set ups here. I hope this works better. Tried to do this set up so newer people could also run it. The faster guys can add power through the LSD and "loosen" it up by rear toe or camber. There is also more room in the TC, if you think you want more then reduce the number. For the newer people Don't over brake the 1st right hand corner to the point you slide out, slight brake, coast and steer lightly, punch it when wheels are straighter, you can't get a decent lap if you mess this up.

breyzipp
08-10-2017, 17:28
Can anyone give a car where the following tuning options can be used?

Under Tyres / Brakes / Chassis => Weight Jacker
Under ECU / Engine / Gearing => Rev Limiter

I went through a dozen of different types of cars but I can't find one where these options are available. I'm taking a screenshot of all tuning explanations to create my own little tuning 101 guide on my iPad but I haven't found any car yet where these can be used.

Big thanks in advance.

Wayne Kerr
08-10-2017, 17:44
jackers should only be available on indycars in ovals.

breyzipp
08-10-2017, 17:48
jackers should only be available on indycars in ovals.

Great thanks!

One down one to go. :)

Badinus
08-10-2017, 18:31
Hi everybody,

I'am looking for a setup for Ginetta junior. (outlon park).

Thanks

Seelenkrank
08-10-2017, 19:07
tire pressure +0,02 up on the right side.
than you had to get the correct raceline/speed/gear and your fine ;)
and you can dl a setup from the timeattack mode if you like and try if this will work for you.

LukeC1991
08-10-2017, 19:22
Has anyone had a go at setting up any of the LM versions of Group C cars? The default setup feels really bad. I’m trying the R89C LM around Le Mans and I can’t get it anywhere near it’s apparent top speed. The AI seem to have a good setup with this car, being able to be very fast on the straights and still be stable through the corners. I know it’s the LM version so it’s not going to be amazing in the corners, but I just can’t get a setup that keeps up with the AI. Anyone got any tips?

Ascara
08-10-2017, 21:53
Hey Guys,

i am not a NEwbie to setups. I am pretty good in building setups in AC. With this thread i just want to know if there are some main things to keep on eye on. Like go for more downforce or something like that, in AC it looks like a pretty soft low downforce car is always faster then going for more downforce. Are there similar things in PCars2?

cpcdem
08-10-2017, 22:18
Ok, if you are going to use my set up make sure you get "Caymansilnat77", I have deleted all other set ups here. I hope this works better. Tried to do this set up so newer people could also run it. The faster guys can add power through the LSD and "loosen" it up by rear toe or camber. There is also more room in the TC, if you think you want more then reduce the number.

Unfortunately I was not able to improve the time with your setup, or actually I did by just a few 100s of a second, so it was practically the same time. Then tried again the default setup and improved another few 100s, which is for now the new top time. Not bad setup by any means, but didn't seem to give that extra something, like your 302R setup did.

But I am not absolutely sure that I got the one you intended to share. The one I got has 1.5:1 and 8.0:1 for the Geared LSD and 70Nm Preload for the Clutch LSD. Camber is at -2.2,-1.9, toe at -0.1, 0.4 and roll bars at 60/15. Is this your intended one?

blinkngone
08-10-2017, 22:51
Hey Guys,

i am not a NEwbie to setups. I am pretty good in building setups in AC. With this thread i just want to know if there are some main things to keep on eye on. Like go for more downforce or something like that, in AC it looks like a pretty soft low downforce car is always faster then going for more downforce. Are there similar things in PCars2?

Hi Ascara, welcome to PCars2. You are on PC so in this game you can pick the car/track you like in TT and if you see a time posted with the gear and wrench between the steering wheel and ghost it means it's a "tuned" set up. You can load the ghost and the set up and see the changes people make. I wouldn't make a generalization like "soft low downforce car is always faster", too many people can easily prove you incorrect depending on the car/track combination(yeah over 20,000 of them). You can start by looking at the differences in the "Loose" and "Stable" set ups provided to you in TT to give you an idea on what changes to make. If you have a question try to be as specific as possible, like the car and track you are wanting to run or have issues with. Have fun!;)

Edit. Hi Ascara if you have time I could use any help you could offer with the GT4's at Silverstone National.

What do you think of this LSD?
242271

blinkngone
08-10-2017, 22:58
Unfortunately I was not able to improve the time with your setup, or actually I did by just a few 100s of a second, so it was practically the same time. Then tried again the default setup and improved another few 100s, which is for now the new top time. Not bad setup by any means, but didn't seem to give that extra something, like your 302R setup did.

But I am not absolutely sure that I got the one you intended to share. The one I got has 1.5:1 and 8.0:1 for the Geared LSD and 70Nm Preload for the Clutch LSD. Camber is at -2.2,-1.9, toe at -0.1, 0.4 and roll bars at 60/15. Is this your intended one?

Hi, sorry. What would be your description, is it too "tight"?

cpcdem
08-10-2017, 23:06
Hi, sorry. What would be your description, is it too "tight"?

No need to be sorry, we're just having fun playing around and trying various options! No, the setup feels fine, but so does the default setup. Nothing wrong with yours, just doesn't seem to give a sufficient advantage or disadvantage, for me yours and the default feel equally good, I'm doing more or less the same lap times with both.

hkraft300
08-10-2017, 23:51
Has anyone had a go at setting up any of the LM versions of Group C cars? The default setup feels really bad. I’m trying the R89C LM around Le Mans and I can’t get it anywhere near it’s apparent top speed. The AI seem to have a good setup with this car, being able to be very fast on the straights and still be stable through the corners. I know it’s the LM version so it’s not going to be amazing in the corners, but I just can’t get a setup that keeps up with the AI. Anyone got any tips?

I tried the R89C LM for a quick MP race it felt average. Regular R89C might be faster. You won't get to its ~400kmh speed, lemans is too short.
Also a bit of downforce might get better lap times.

blinkngone
09-10-2017, 01:34
No need to be sorry, we're just having fun playing around and trying various options! No, the setup feels fine, but so does the default setup. Nothing wrong with yours, just doesn't seem to give a sufficient advantage or disadvantage, for me yours and the default feel equally good, I'm doing more or less the same lap times with both.

Hey, I'll keep working. I thought that you were going to pick up about 6 tenths over what I could do(like you did the 302) using my set up and easily get into the 57's. I've improved my time, still way behind you.
242268
I had to start over.:miserable: For some reason I couldn't do any better than a 58.88 with the old one, no idea. This time I made 3 copies hopefully all the same.

Tooma
09-10-2017, 01:41
Need some serious help here with saving tuning car setups in career mode with Ps4 pro. Been driving me nuts not be able to save a new setup with wet tires (all suspension setups remain the same except putting on wet tires).

Been trying to save this setup in many different ways but it keeps on kicking me back to the Enter Setup Name pop-up window.

Is this a bug or just me? Can't play this race without wet tires!

Hi bd307. It's not you. I recently posted a similar question regarding saving edits to settings, which is more, much more, miss than hit - I'm on PC - and two peeps replied telling me it is a known problem which we can expect a 'fix' for. I was looking for wet tyres today, but I could not get them either, so run on 'winter' with the AI flying past me like they were on slicks in the dry, and I was on ice - lol.

blinkngone
09-10-2017, 02:07
Hey cpcdem. Is this your 1st tune? Congrats.:cool: How much were you able to improve over the default?
242269

cpcdem
09-10-2017, 05:57
Hey cpcdem. Is this your 1st tune? Congrats.:cool: How much were you able to improve over the default?


I've done a few more in the previous days, but I wouldn't really call them "tunes" :)

I'm just doing the very very basic stuff, brake bias, adjusted ducts for good brake temps, closed radiator as much as possible, slightly touched dif, experimented with different downforce levels, that sorts of things. But when it comes to real tuning, adjusting springs, ride height, camber/toe and that kind of stuff, I am at a complete loss, I know the theory, but cannot translate it to better handling behavior in practice. I have the same problem also in other sims, like AC and R3E and also in PC1, I would only make minor adjustments and also use the widely known setup exploits so I could be fighting with the top guys in multiplayer, but apart from that, no real tuning. Guess I need to build up some more experience in this area!

Edit: Regarding lap times, sometimes I can make a few tenths with my "tunes", but I am not sure it's because of the tunes, or because I just get better in the given track while testing out the tunes! I tend to think it's the later :)

breyzipp
09-10-2017, 06:12
Does anyone know a car where you can tune the "rev limiter" under the gearing section? It's greyed out for every car I tried so far.

And I suppose since it's under gearing that rev stands for reverse?

STRAKKA R11
09-10-2017, 07:17
Curious in how to best set up my indycar for an oval. In TT i can hit a 39.2 at daytona speedway but i struggle to get to the 40 mark when in a race. Any ideas?

NineLine
09-10-2017, 14:09
TT is probably using a low amount of fuel(assumption), that extra weight can easily add a second to your time in a race.

Iconiqk
09-10-2017, 15:49
Hello! I was wondering if anyone had any extra time to spare to post some of the popular GT3 cars loose setups, as we on console do not have access to them yet and would like to use them as a baseline. Much appreciated to anyone willing to help out! Thank you for your time!

Joni Varis
09-10-2017, 17:41
Also on TT tyres are at optimal temperature when you start the lap. Makes quite big difference.

MJP
09-10-2017, 20:20
Here is the McLaren 650S GT3 Loose setup for starters, excuse my super MSPaint skills.

242367242366242365242364242363


Audi R8 LMS GT3

242383242384242385242386242387

Iconiqk
09-10-2017, 20:32
Oh no :/

blinkngone
09-10-2017, 20:55
Also on TT tyres are at optimal temperature when you start the lap. Makes quite big difference.

What? The tires are the same as they were in PC1. Let's talk GT4, hard. When you get "manual control" they are at 210F. The temps continue to drop during the lap(s). You have to go back into the set up and change them, you'd be surprised(or not) how much you have to lower the pressures at Silverstone National to get proper tire temps on the left side only, right side you have to drive them cold.

cpcdem
09-10-2017, 21:51
Hey, I'll keep working. I thought that you were going to pick up about 6 tenths over what I could do(like you did the 302) using my set up and easily get into the 57's. I've improved my time, still way behind you.


I think it has to do with the default setup being already pretty balanced in the Porsche, so it is relatively easy to drive that car already in default. On the other hand, I just tried again the Mustang GT4, which is way harder to handle in default setup, but with yours it now is like day and night. Within just a few laps with your setup I improved 5 tenths compared to my previous time with default..

Btw, only thing I adjusted was TC level, lowered it to 15% I think. May I ask, why are you generally using such high values like 50% or 70%? With such a value, TC allows 50% or so spin before it intervenes, so I think it practically means almost completely disabled TC.

blinkngone
09-10-2017, 23:01
I think it has to do with the default setup being already pretty balanced in the Porsche, so it is relatively easy to drive that car already in default. On the other hand, I just tried again the Mustang GT4, which is way harder to handle in default setup, but with yours it now is like day and night. Within just a few laps with your setup I improved 5 tenths compared to my previous time with default..

Btw, only thing I adjusted was TC level, lowered it to 15% I think. May I ask, why are you generally using such high values like 50% or 70%? With such a value, TC allows 50% or so spin before it intervenes, so I think it practically means almost completely disabled TC.

Most of the time I use 52 for TC, nothing special here, it's just the year I was born(1952). You can adjust it if you want.

Did the KTM, 1 lap, drove underneath you going into sector 3, you were ahead before that so everything was in sector 3 for improvement. Hope you like it.
242355

blinkngone
09-10-2017, 23:08
Hello! I was wondering if anyone had any extra time to spare to post some of the popular GT3 cars loose setups, as we on console do not have access to them yet and would like to use them as a baseline. Much appreciated to anyone willing to help out! Thank you for your time!

Ferrari
242350
242351
242352
242353
242354

What other car do you want? Hey Iconiqk, Roger has a PC2 garage set up, I'll post the McLaren over there.

katzolik
09-10-2017, 23:53
isn't is really dumb that you cant change the gear setup on gt3 cars in a meaningful way?
I mean some cars are just unusable on certain tracks.
For example the 488gt3 is just so much faster on Imola because of its native gear setup.
Other cars are simply over 10kph slower on the straight because you cant exceed 5th gear?!?!
Its really frustrating and i don't understand that decision.

Iconiqk
10-10-2017, 00:29
Thank you blink! I would like to try the loose setup on the Huracan and AMG.

cpcdem
10-10-2017, 00:51
Most of the time I use 52 for TC, nothing special here, it's just the year I was born(1952). You can adjust it if you want.


Ahh, ok, then that gives a hint also on a couple other numbers I am seeing in your setups and I was wondering about :-)
Btw, it is very nice seeing you and other people at their 60+ very motivated about their hobby, willing to help everybody and being fast as well! I like to believe I will still be like that later in my life, too..


Did the KTM, 1 lap, drove underneath you going into sector 3, you were ahead before that so everything was in sector 3 for improvement. Hope you like it.


Will give it a try, thanks!

blinkngone
10-10-2017, 01:47
Ok Iconiqk, I'll post them in the Garage.:D

Tooma
10-10-2017, 02:12
isn't is really dumb that you cant change the gear setup on gt3 cars in a meaningful way?
I mean some cars are just unusable on certain tracks.
For example the 488gt3 is just so much faster on Imola because of its native gear setup.
Other cars are simply over 10kph slower on the straight because you cant exceed 5th gear?!?!
Its really frustrating and i don't understand that decision.

Just a thought, but could it be the case that the gearing is accurately modelling/mirroring the real car? :)

Boneboys
10-10-2017, 05:37
Hello, any hints on this problem or how to solve ?

The Share Setup option is greyed out !
I have made sure that my named setup is loaded.
Steam / PC.
The only thing that I can think of is that my Steam Profile is set to Private / Friends only.
Maybe it is a known issue or I'm missing something...
I have done a basic search without success, so any hints would be welcome.

Thanks.

tonaz
10-10-2017, 11:50
Which one, there are 2. I haven't driven this GT before but I made some changes to the default settings, attached results.
242032

That one you posted in the sceen Blinkngone. Could you please suggest me something? thanks a lot

blinkngone
10-10-2017, 13:07
That one you posted in the sceen Blinkngone. Could you please suggest me something? thanks a lot

Must be the Mustangs, go to Silverstone National TT there are set ups in there you can use. For the RTR I have the set up posted in the garage if you can't get it to load in TT.

katzolik
10-10-2017, 13:16
Just a thought, but could it be the case that the gearing is accurately modelling/mirroring the real car? :)

No that's not the case.
Im pretty sure GT3 regulations allow gearing changes.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HG2NDhA2iRk

as you can see here the Huracán has an ideal gearing setup on this straight. in PC2 its useless.
also GT3 hat a BOP. and it would not make sense that one car is just 3 seconds faster than the others.

cpcdem
10-10-2017, 19:03
Did the KTM, 1 lap, drove underneath you going into sector 3, you were ahead before that so everything was in sector 3 for improvement. Hope you like it.


Wow, what a nice setup! This setup (together with the way the car sounds I guess) has made the KTM my favorite GT4 car, it is extremely exciting driving it now. Will give it a test in various tracks!
With default setup I had managed a 59.3, with yours I did a flat 59.0 and at some point I was also 3 tenths quicker, but messed up at the end. Maybe even a 58.5 or better is possible..

Fight-Test
10-10-2017, 19:32
No that's not the case.
Im pretty sure GT3 regulations allow gearing changes.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HG2NDhA2iRk

as you can see here the Huracán has an ideal gearing setup on this straight. in PC2 its useless.
also GT3 hat a BOP. and it would not make sense that one car is just 3 seconds faster than the others.

Gearing is locked in on GT3 cars. Its either part of the bop or they do it during homogenization(im sure one of the guys will chime in on that). Its possible some of the series like VLN might allow it but I know FIA, SRO and IMSA they are locked. Someone did mention that two of the gt3 cars in the game you can change gears and that might because they are older?

VelvetTorpedo
10-10-2017, 19:41
Only the Nissan GT3 should have Final Gear Adjustments... All GT3 have fixed FIA homologated Gear Ratios....

If you can adjust it on other than the Nissan then something is fishy...

i found this in another thread...

katzolik
10-10-2017, 20:33
Gearing is locked in on GT3 cars. Its either part of the bop or they do it during homogenization(im sure one of the guys will chime in on that). Its possible some of the series like VLN might allow it but I know FIA, SRO and IMSA they are locked. Someone did mention that two of the gt3 cars in the game you can change gears and that might because they are older?

could be that VLN has a different gear setup but the clip is from Italiano GT...
also here another Huracán on Imola with other gearing (also shorter):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6aASYaf4CJA
it is a ADAC GT masters driver..
Maybe there are locked from race to race in one series but not as a whole.
So i don't understand why SMS would give most GT3 cars gear setups that render them useless on most GT3 GP Circuits.

Wayne Kerr
10-10-2017, 21:21
There is ONE gear set (first to sixth) that is locked for everyone globally, that's the homologated gearset.

In North America for the cars running IMSA, the manufacturers can specify a daytona specific set and another set that is closer ratio than the homologated set for street circuits.

blinkngone
10-10-2017, 22:59
Wow, what a nice setup! This setup (together with the way the car sounds I guess) has made the KTM my favorite GT4 car, it is extremely exciting driving it now. Will give it a test in various tracks!
With default setup I had managed a 59.3, with yours I did a flat 59.0 and at some point I was also 3 tenths quicker, but messed up at the end. Maybe even a 58.5 or better is possible..

Cool, we are testing at Nurburgring Sprint, I ran the KTM, (Sloskimo has run KTM and others), changed tire pressures and camber, nothing else. My time there is just the out lap, normally takes a few to set a good time. I'm in 2nd 1.5 out so I have work to do. I have a bunch of new GT3's ready for you, NSX, 650S and 911. Also on GT4's I have the BMW, Aston Martin and Toyota.

katzolik
10-10-2017, 23:31
There is ONE gear set (first to sixth) that is locked for everyone globally, that's the homologated gearset.

In North America for the cars running IMSA, the manufacturers can specify a daytona specific set and another set that is closer ratio than the homologated set for street circuits.
Look at the two videos Oo even there the gears are different. and in game its a lot taller.

cpcdem
10-10-2017, 23:56
Cool, we are testing at Nurburgring Sprint, I ran the KTM, (Sloskimo has run KTM and others), changed tire pressures and camber, nothing else. My time there is just the out lap, normally takes a few to set a good time. I'm in 2nd 1.5 out so I have work to do. I have a bunch of new GT3's ready for you, NSX, 650S and 911. Also on GT4's I have the BMW, Aston Martin and Toyota.

Great, thanks! Will check Nurburgring tomorrow, today I was testing in Knockhill with the Cayman, a lot of people have registered lap times already and seems the pros are around there. I think I mostly learned the track and managed so far a time within 1 sec of the leaders' time, but want to try to go a little closer to it.

blinkngone
10-10-2017, 23:59
Great, thanks! Will check Nurburgring tomorrow, today I was testing in Knockhill with the Cayman, a lot of people have registered lap times already and seems the pros are around there. I think I mostly learned the track and managed so far a time within 1 sec of the leaders' time, but want to try to go a little closer to it.

Ok, one of the WMD people wanted me to go there next but I thought there were already enough cars there. Yes, the fast guys show up during community events.

Oh well, you have your KTM in first.

Ciccina2016
11-10-2017, 07:48
Good Morning Guys, I hope I am posting in the right thread.
I need a race setup for Silverstone (autumn season) for the touring car 2012 BMW 320 TC (E90).

Now, the reason why I specificed autumn season is that if I race with the base setup in summer season , the car is fine.
However in autumn season as the track temperature drops, the tyres never reach the optimum temperature ( above 75), especially the right side tyres and this creates an oversteer on fast right corner impossible to manage.
Now.. I tried to lower pressure to the minimum as well as to lower the springs ( to increase tyre contact with tarmac ) as well as to soften the posterior anti-roll bar but it did not work.

Last but not least, I drive the car without assist and the rear-wheel Drive does not help as well in this situation. Anyone ??

blinkngone
11-10-2017, 08:36
Good Morning Guys, I hope I am posting in the right thread.
I need a race setup for Silverstone (autumn season) for the touring car 2012 BMW 320 TC (E90).

Now, the reason why I specificed autumn season is that if I race with the base setup in summer season , the car is fine.
However in autumn season as the track temperature drops, the tyres never reach the optimum temperature ( above 75), especially the right side tyres and this creates an oversteer on fast right corner impossible to manage.
Now.. I tried to lower pressure to the minimum as well as to lower the springs ( to increase tyre contact with tarmac ) as well as to soften the posterior anti-roll bar but it did not work.

Last but not least, I drive the car without assist and the rear-wheel Drive does not help as well in this situation. Anyone ??

Hi, this is ok but you can post in the "GARAGE".

Fight-Test
11-10-2017, 12:33
could be that VLN has a different gear setup but the clip is from Italiano GT...
also here another Huracán on Imola with other gearing (also shorter):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6aASYaf4CJA
it is a ADAC GT masters driver..
Maybe there are locked from race to race in one series but not as a whole.
So i don't understand why SMS would give most GT3 cars gear setups that render them useless on most GT3 GP Circuits.

FIA 2017 regs for international, national and regional all read the same. With the exception of regional not being to change the final gear.

Fixed gear ratios (Final drop gears beginning to be allowed)

cpcdem
11-10-2017, 22:34
Ok, one of the WMD people wanted me to go there next but I thought there were already enough cars there. Yes, the fast guys show up during community events.


Ah, that's why there are so many times registered, had not realized there was a community event in Knockhill.

I did the Aston Martin and Ginetta in Nurburgring as you asked, the Aston was nice to drive in default, but with the Ginetta I struggled, your setup helped a lot though. Both times can be improved.
I was using your ghosts as reference and I noticed that I am gaining time on you mainly in the slow corners, I am using a bit more throttle through them, so I carry more speed. But you are in big disadvantage if you try to do that, too, because you are practically not using traction control. I am sure that if you put the TC setup value close to the default value (10-15), your lap times will improve a lot.

blinkngone
11-10-2017, 22:51
Ah, that's why there are so many times registered, had not realized there was a community event in Knockhill.

I did the Aston Martin and Ginetta in Nurburgring as you asked, the Aston was nice to drive in default, but with the Ginetta I struggled, your setup helped a lot though. Both times can be improved.
I was using your ghosts as reference and I noticed that I am gaining time on you mainly in the slow corners, I am using a bit more throttle through them, so I carry more speed. But you are in big disadvantage if you try to do that, too, because you are practically not using traction control. I am sure that if you put the TC setup value close to the default value (10-15), your lap times will improve a lot.

Thanks! As always your help is really appreciated. The Toyota Rocket bunny kicked my b**t today, I had that thing on 2 wheels so many times I lost count. Gave up when I finally got a 1:36.759. Would have been in 5th if it was a Cayman, something's not right, I guess the learning curve is going to be steep.

Go on and have some fun, you've been working so hard and I do appreciate it. There are many GT3s set up for you to try. Also, I just started the Daytona Road Course with the C7.R but my computer hates that track, locks continuously, anyway you can try that but default is probably better now.

Ciccina2016
12-10-2017, 09:31
Guys anyone.. this is really a tricky issue.. anyone who loves playing with setups?

tonaz
12-10-2017, 09:38
I just wanted to thanks all the cool people here that share their setups in the in-game time trial Drivers Network.
This helps me a lot in improving my times.
Thanks a lot.

blinkngone
12-10-2017, 13:36
Guys anyone.. this is really a tricky issue.. anyone who loves playing with setups?

Why is this a tricky issue?

Post in the garage from now on and people will jump in to help if you have a specific question it will help more.

Ciccina2016
12-10-2017, 13:39
Sorry I did not understand I had to post into another thread.

It is a tricky issue for me as I want to win the event ahahha and I can still cannot figure out how to beat the oversteer.... :) can you send me link of where should I post it? there are several threads under garage section..

blinkngone
12-10-2017, 13:42
I just wanted to thanks all the cool people here that share their setups in the in-game time trial Drivers Network.
This helps me a lot in improving my times.
Thanks a lot.

Hi Tonaz, you can post in the Garage now. Still you need to be careful when you use the shared set ups because sometimes the setup you get will be from the last track they(the one you are trying to share) will have run at a different track and that set up will show. It might confuse you. It would help if everyone described the track they are using in their setup so if you areat Brands Hatch Indy and a shared setup shows "dubaination" for example you would know not to use it.

tonaz
12-10-2017, 13:46
Hi Tonaz, you can post in the Garage now. Still you need to be careful when you use the shared set ups because sometimes the setup you get will be from the last track they(the one you are trying to share) will have run at a different track and that set up will show. It might confuse you. It would help if everyone described the track they are using in their setup so if you areat Brands Hatch Indy and a shared setup shows "dubaination" for example you would know not to use it.

+1 would be nice indeed

blinkngone
12-10-2017, 13:49
Sorry I did not understand I had to post into another thread.

It is a tricky issue for me as I want to win the event ahahha and I can still cannot figure out how to beat the oversteer.... :) can you send me link of where should I post it? there are several threads under garage section..

Are you talking about Career? Multiplayer? Make your own thread in the Garage section, mine are there. If it's specific to PS4 you could try PMing someone.

Spinning/oversteer it is easy to adjust LSD, increase the power ramp number a little to start and move your TC to 10(it's usually at 25).

KrypticTMG
12-10-2017, 14:50
Mclaren 650s Base setup @ SPA after patch 2.00


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8eZKXmzxxbc&t=9s

drealz
12-10-2017, 16:15
Thank you! I will test it tomorrow.

blinkngone
12-10-2017, 16:20
Mclaren 650s Base setup @ SPA after patch 2.00


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8eZKXmzxxbc&t=9s

Hey Kryptic, there is a Garage newly added for you to post your setup videos in now.

Gopher04
13-10-2017, 12:23
I was wondering why we have a 6 speed box in most cars when the car basically doesn't seem to need to use them, I know there is the ability to adjust the ratio of the gears, not the final ratio, but that really doesn't seem to help in the matter, yet in real life if you watch on-board footage they never seem to have this problem of using the whole box, using GT3's for example.

cpcdem
13-10-2017, 16:49
I was wondering why we have a 6 speed box in most cars when the car basically doesn't seem to need to use them, I know there is the ability to adjust the ratio of the gears, not the final ratio, but that really doesn't seem to help in the matter, yet in real life if you watch on-board footage they never seem to have this problem of using the whole box, using GT3's for example.

Depends on the car and track. In some GT3 cars you can go to 6th gear earlier, in others later, depends on their (homologated, thus fixed) gear ratios. Also regarding tracks, try for example Le Mans, I'm sure every GT3 will use 6th gear there, especially if you lower the aero and radiator. Extreme example, but in most tracks with a long straight you will use 6th gear I think.

Roger Prynne
13-10-2017, 17:19
There's lots of tracks where cars in real life cannot use 6th gear, unless there is a very long straight.

sportyaccordy
15-10-2017, 00:58
Are there some kind of base rules I can start from? I have been trying to get the AMG GT3 stable for days now.... I don't know if I am just a terrible driver, but I've been quasi sim racing & drifting in Forza/GT for over a decade. But I cannot get this car to stop spinning. It feels completely unstable. I'm running close to the default settings now. Any ideas???

djhonda
15-10-2017, 21:36
Guys, can anyone help me with a setup for Cayenne GT4 @Silverstone? It's the second race in the series, first one was OK on default setup, it was @ red bull track (wet) and no problems at all. But now at Silverstone I just can't control the car, basically almost no grip in corners. Tried adjusting through engineer plus lowered pressure in the rear tires but not much improvement. Does anyone has a setup or some tips that might help me?

Thanks!

hkraft300
16-10-2017, 11:26
Which Silverstone? GP? National? Inter?...

The AMG-GT3 is a beast. Increase the clutch diff accel ramp angle to ease it up, if you're having trouble on corner exit.
Maybe soften the rear springs a click.

blinkngone
16-10-2017, 16:17
Guys, can anyone help me with a setup for Cayenne GT4 @Silverstone? It's the second race in the series, first one was OK on default setup, it was @ red bull track (wet) and no problems at all. But now at Silverstone I just can't control the car, basically almost no grip in corners. Tried adjusting through engineer plus lowered pressure in the rear tires but not much improvement. Does anyone has a setup or some tips that might help me?

Thanks!
Hi djhonda, the Porsche Cayman GT4 default is pretty good at Silverstone National but if you are having problems I will post a tuned set up in the Garage for you to look at, we can't share across platforms sorry I am on PC. Look in Silverstone National GT4 BOP, I'll put it there.

Here is the link if you don't know where the Garage is.
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?54913-Silverstone-National-GT4-BOP-Testing

sportyaccordy
16-10-2017, 23:01
Which Silverstone? GP? National? Inter?...

The AMG-GT3 is a beast. Increase the clutch diff accel ramp angle to ease it up, if you're having trouble on corner exit.
Maybe soften the rear springs a click.

I have been focusing on tracks with first gear corners, so Catalunya and CoTA. Catalunya is really bumpy too, which doesn't help

KrypticTMG
16-10-2017, 23:54
Base setup for the BMW Z4 @COTA 2:06.040


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=huAqjPUPpc4&list=PLcdUYslwQzqNmfpxKjYsm0nOyxh--voFS

blinkngone
17-10-2017, 00:09
Base setup for the BMW Z4 @COTA 2:06.040


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=huAqjPUPpc4&list=PLcdUYslwQzqNmfpxKjYsm0nOyxh--voFS

Hey, Kryptic, here next time, more eyes. If you want just make a post "KrypticTMG Video Setups" in the Garage that way they will all be in one place and people won't have to search to find them. I can do it if you want.

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/forumdisplay.php?156-The-Garage-Car-Setup-Talk

Tooma
18-10-2017, 17:03
Car set-ups.....So I guess most of you are able to make adjustments to your cars and save them. Were you all able to do so before the recent update? Were any of you having problems saving prior to the update, and you can save edits now? Were any of you having problems with saves before the update, and, are still having problems because you can't keep an adjustment on the car? The last question, I answer "Yes" to. I have just given up on Career Mode, because I cannot get anything to save, even when I immediately check the tweak has saved before going to track, because once I am on track, it is clear the "Save" has lied to me again. Try the Circuit of the Americas in a Vantage GT4 with the brake pressure at the 75% default - corner 1 and you know, lol.

This realisation that the Edit Save is useless explains why me downloading set-ups from kind people via the TTs is a waste of time, as my car feels just the same after I load them.

Please please fix this, SMS.

I have verified my PC2 files twice in a week with Steam, and everything has checked out both times. The problem is not restricted to Career Mode; it's just that I spend more time on tuning there.

blinkngone
19-10-2017, 01:05
Car set-ups.....So I guess most of you are able to make adjustments to your cars and save them. Were you all able to do so before the recent update? Were any of you having problems saving prior to the update, and you can save edits now? Were any of you having problems with saves before the update, and, are still having problems because you can't keep an adjustment on the car? The last question, I answer "Yes" to. I have just given up on Career Mode, because I cannot get anything to save, even when I immediately check the tweak has saved before going to track, because once I am on track, it is clear the "Save" has lied to me again. Try the Circuit of the Americas in a Vantage GT4 with the brake pressure at the 75% default - corner 1 and you know, lol.

This realisation that the Edit Save is useless explains why me downloading set-ups from kind people via the TTs is a waste of time, as my car feels just the same after I load them.



Please please fix this, SMS.

I have verified my PC2 files twice in a week with Steam, and everything has checked out both times. The problem is not restricted to Career Mode; it's just that I spend more time on tuning there.

Sorry Tooma there are still threads going on in General about this as well. The only thing I can say is it will get better, just takes time. It seems to be worse in career especially with pit stops. On PC I haven't had many complaints with set up sharing except when I left the wrong set up in the car. A post from the person and I went back in and put the set up they wanted. The only thing that works is to go with the new when asked never save over existing. For some it is more troubling than others. We share setups in our group every day.

Tooma
19-10-2017, 02:56
Sorry Tooma there are still threads going on in General about this as well. The only thing I can say is it will get better, just takes time. It seems to be worse in career especially with pit stops. On PC I haven't had many complaints with set up sharing except when I left the wrong set up in the car. A post from the person and I went back in and put the set up they wanted. The only thing that works is to go with the new when asked never save over existing. For some it is more troubling than others. We share setups in our group every day.

Thanks blinkngone; you're a gent. I have been saving over existing file almost every time, so I shall gladly try your suggestion. I was so frustrated with PC2 I went into RaceRoom for a blast with some new cars and tracks I bought a few months ago, and never got around to using, for various reasons - no problems - cars were great right out of the box - very nice old BMW M1. Refreshing.....cool runnings. I look forward to PC2 being as good.

IceShaft
19-10-2017, 13:36
Hello blinkngone, I really appreciate your hard work with the setups and all the other people as well!
I was wondering how could I try your setups in my runs, I'm on the PS4 while I think you're on PC, right?

I'm still trying to understand how to navigate the TT screen, on the PS4 whenever I load the TT page of a certain track I only find the best times overall no matter which car I select and just a few of them have ghosts to download.

blinkngone
19-10-2017, 14:05
Hello blinkngone, I really appreciate your hard work with the setups and all the other people as well!
I was wondering how could I try your setups in my runs, I'm on the PS4 while I think you're on PC, right?

I'm still trying to understand how to navigate the TT screen, on the PS4 whenever I load the TT page of a certain track I only find the best times overall no matter which car I select and just a few of them have ghosts to download.

Hi IceShaft, my understanding is that the Leaderboards are controlled by the console platforms so you don't get the more versatile(although some aren't happy here in PC world). I only have mostly Silverstone National but if you want to try a set up let me know.
What I can do is make a post for console setups like I did for the Fast and Loose set ups before you guys got them in patch 2.0, would that be ok? Just put your request in there?

Tooma
19-10-2017, 16:34
Sorry Tooma there are still threads going on in General about this as well. The only thing I can say is it will get better, just takes time. It seems to be worse in career especially with pit stops. On PC I haven't had many complaints with set up sharing except when I left the wrong set up in the car. A post from the person and I went back in and put the set up they wanted. The only thing that works is to go with the new when asked never save over existing. For some it is more troubling than others. We share setups in our group every day.

Hi blinkngone.

I went back to try again with a ghost setting for the Vantage GT4 in Career Mode, and to save to a new set-up, as you suggested. Now the darn thing won't save a set-up, and just in case it was needed that the car had to be run in TT, I went back and did so, but still no set-up saved. Doing this reminded me that the 1st time I saved a set-up from TT, I did save it to a new Edit, and it worked; it was like driving a different car, wished I had photographed the set-up now, ahh, but that would not save anyways - lol. I had gone into edits to change the fuel and check something else, saved to that new set-up, back on track, and it had all gone to pot, and I never have managed to get it working again. So, here's to the next update.... .

IceShaft
19-10-2017, 17:29
What I can do is make a post for console setups like I did for the Fast and Loose set ups before you guys got them in patch 2.0, would that be ok? Just put your request in there?

That would be great! Thank you so much!

So it seems that there is no way for us on the consoles to sort the list by car or class?
There is a button for that but it doesn’t work!

crowhop
21-10-2017, 07:49
What exactly is the information inside the red boxes in this image?
https://i.imgur.com/C1hSYWT.jpg

blinkngone
21-10-2017, 10:34
Hi cowhop, your starting tire pressure in bar, you're not moving so the temperature in degrees is uniform across the tire(inside middle and outside. When you drive the pressure will increase and the temperature will change across the tire. If you have a lot of camber the inside will be hotter than the outside. If you have a lot of hard right corners the pressures and temperatures will increase on the left side dramatically and you may not be able to get the right side tire temperatures and pressures optimized. In most cases when you see the red warning you are about to get manual control take note of the tire temperatures, this should be your target. Run a couple of laps, note the difference from target and go back into setup, try and adjust your pressures to get close to that in the center. Repeat as necessary realizing you probably will never reach perfection unless you are driving too slow. Some tires never reach optimum due to track conditions, adjust your driving style accordingly.

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?55303-Tire-temps-pcars-2

Wayne Kerr
21-10-2017, 14:06
his starting pressure in bar is the number under the tire choice

the 2.13-2.30 should be his hot pressures.

i've never actually noticed those numbers matching to the telem hud on track tbh

crowhop
21-10-2017, 15:53
his starting pressure in bar is the number under the tire choice

the 2.13-2.30 should be his hot pressures.

i've never actually noticed those numbers matching to the telem hud on track tbh
I know, right??!!

The numbers make no sense. They have never once matched actual resulting data from driving and they certainly do not show current state. Add to it that the numbers change randomly based on the selections I make on that screen. If the data is supposed to be telling me the future Pressure in the Left Rear will be 2.30, then it is incredibly incorrect. If the data is telling me the future temp of the outer/inner/outer of the tire will be 77°/76°/76°, it is incredibly incorrect.

And what is the incomplete circle with the zero inside? What is this designed to tell me?

I simply do not understand these displays at all. If you enter this screen it will always be that you've started fresh and have cold tires, so it isn't as though you can view this data live as it happens.

If the data showed live information I could view during the race to inform me of the current Pressure, the air temp inside the tire (I assume this is what the half circle with the zero was originally designed to do), and the tread temps on the outer/inner/middle, then that would be useful information. But this doesn't show that.

cpcdem
21-10-2017, 16:27
I think those numbers represent the current temps/pressures while you are in the garage. One of the devs said that they will change it, so physics will get paused while you are in the garage starting from the next or some other patch. I think I got that right, but not absolutely sure, so..

blinkngone
21-10-2017, 16:33
Oh well?? Here is the P1.
This is in the garage, tires are at ambient.
243483
Here is you out on track after release to manual control, pressures are way higher than you had in the garage and tire temperatures are falling. Don't even bother to drive, pull back in pits? Adjust pressures? To what? Some cars are not this bad, the GT3s are better mostly. It's added information but you need to guess and adjust. Everbody's having fun, follow the link.
243484

crowhop
21-10-2017, 17:01
Oh well?? Here is the P1.
This is in the garage, tires are at ambient.
243483
Here is you out on track after release to manual control, pressures are way higher than you had in the garage and tire temperatures are falling. Don't even bother to drive, pull back in pits? Adjust pressures? To what? Some cars are not this bad, the GT3s are better mostly. It's added information but you need to guess and adjust. Everbody's having fun, follow the link.
243484
I set the cold Pressure at 1.52 Bar at the Left Rear. The display shows 2.30 Bar. When first go on track I get 1.52 Bar at the start. During the session the tire will heat to just under 100° C and the pressure will increase to, at most, 2.08 Bar.

Not even once have those numbers been accurate on any tire, in any scenario for me. Not at the beginning, not in process and not at the end.

I would still like to know what the incomplete circles with the zero inside are supposed to represent. Of all the inaccurate information in the display, it's the incomplete data which bugs me most.

blinkngone
22-10-2017, 01:26
I set the cold Pressure at 1.52 Bar at the Left Rear. The display shows 2.30 Bar. When first go on track I get 1.52 Bar at the start. During the session the tire will heat to just under 100° C and the pressure will increase to, at most, 2.08 Bar.

Not even once have those numbers been accurate on any tire, in any scenario for me. Not at the beginning, not in process and not at the end.

I would still like to know what the incomplete circles with the zero inside are supposed to represent. Of all the inaccurate information in the display, it's the incomplete data which bugs me most.

crowhop you are obviously a very talented driver in this game. Please follow the link I gave you in a previous post or go to the Garage. There are numerous tire threads, no need to continue another one in here. I looked, and couldn't find an explanation for the "0", sorry.

Roger Prynne
24-10-2017, 16:06
THE INSIDER'S GUIDE: Weekly In-game Guide by Yorkie065 (http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?55787-THE-INSIDER-S-GUIDE-Weekly-In-game-Guide-by-Yorkie065)

Brockie77
24-10-2017, 20:24
Hey does anybody have some decent setups for the Ginetta Junior?

blinkngone
24-10-2017, 21:39
Hey does anybody have some decent setups for the Ginetta Junior?

Is your platform correct, PC? If you are on PC go to TT and share setups. Like this.
243770

KrypticTMG
24-10-2017, 22:39
Audi R8 Hot lap + setup @ Catalunya 1:43.734


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=igVg69O-hrI&feature=youtu.be

Joni Varis
25-10-2017, 05:24
Not sure what has happened since 2.0 patch (PC) but soft tyres on GT3 cars seems useless now, specially on time trials. Just have really low grip immideatly when starting lap and laptimes are like 1s+ faster using hard compound. For SP/MP things aint much different/better. On race softs gets toasted in 1-2 laps and then car is all over the place.

blinkngone
25-10-2017, 13:30
Not sure what has happened since 2.0 patch (PC) but soft tyres on GT3 cars seems useless now, specially on time trials. Just have really low grip immideatly when starting lap and laptimes are like 1s+ faster using hard compound. For SP/MP things aint much different/better. On race softs gets toasted in 1-2 laps and then car is all over the place.

Hi Joni, I haven't run much soft myself but I have the same feeling you do. Maybe I am not trying on a cold enough track but the softs are all over the place as you said. I am faster on hard tires.
243793

Joni Varis
25-10-2017, 13:41
Ye i have tested lots of different tracks with different GT3 cars and SOFT just isnt working now proberly. Example in TT it feels slippery from get go, just dont have the same grip as you have with hards and it gets bad to worse really fast, handling basicly gets worse corner by corner. Before this latest patch softs were quite a bit faster than hards specially for hotlap, even short races were better with those. Now those are basicly unusable :rolleyes:

Bealdor
25-10-2017, 15:49
Have you guys tried to open your brake ducts a bit?
Brake temperature has a significant impact on tire temperatures and pressures.

Joni Varis
25-10-2017, 16:47
Yeah i tried different brake duct settings, tyre pressures, camber settings. But honestly there is something really strange going on, you dont even have same grip on very first corner you enter with softs than you have with hards.

Tooma
25-10-2017, 23:07
Ye i have tested lots of different tracks with different GT3 cars and SOFT just isnt working now proberly. Example in TT it feels slippery from get go, just dont have the same grip as you have with hards and it gets bad to worse really fast, handling basicly gets worse corner by corner. Before this latest patch softs were quite a bit faster than hards specially for hotlap, even short races were better with those. Now those are basicly unusable :rolleyes:

I don't get a choice of slicks - wet, slick, all terrain, auto by weather, and ice. What tyre options do you have Joni?

blinkngone
25-10-2017, 23:44
Have you guys tried to open your brake ducts a bit?
Brake temperature has a significant impact on tire temperatures and pressures.

Hi Bealdor, I pretty much have similar results to Joni Varis. I ran Hockenheim Short, the soft tires are sliding through turn 1 on the first lap. I can adjust everything to try and get them to work but it isn't pleasant and I am easily faster with the hards. The track ambient is 61.
243825
243826