PDA

View Full Version : Please help I'm really struggling! [Solved]



jimortality
28-09-2017, 18:45
I know I know but I'm really struggling with the brakes on all the cars I've driven. I absolutely love this game and this is definitely the future for sim racing in my opinion but, I JUST CAN'T STOP THE BLOODY CARS!! I've tried various different settings mentioned in the forum but it's just not working. I have the T3PA pro pedals with the spring mod thingy and I might have to bin it. I'm finding quite difficult in general for trying to get clean laps but compounded by not being able to stop and as you know, it's quite important on a racetrack lol

hkraft300
28-09-2017, 18:47
Brake sooner.
Don't lock (reduce brake pressure in car setup).

Slow in, fast out.

jimortality
28-09-2017, 18:49
Brake sooner.
Don't lock (reduce brake pressure in car setup).

Slow in, fast out.

Reduce?? I've been maxing it to 100% I'm not a petrol head so when it comes to setups I rely on you guys lol

Leper Messiah
28-09-2017, 18:52
I've definitely had to reduce brake pressure in a lot of cars so far due to more front lock ups. Seeing as the first game was a bit too easy in the braking zone I think it's ace, but also sympathise. Only way they can improve the braking zone is to get a bit of lateral forces going on (like in AC), it's still a bit too straight line for me (absolutely not saying that's real or anything as I have no idea about driving real cars this hard!).

I've got the load cell CSR Elite pedals, don't know if that's in anyway similar to what you have.

could_do_better
28-09-2017, 18:58
As others have said, lower the Brake pressure 5% until you get used to it.
Shift the brake balance back 3 to 5 %
Make sure the brake sensitivity is not less than 50 (linear) to simulate a real brake pedal then called of 70-80 are better.

Feel the lock up, remember cold brakes don't work as well so build into your session braking early for a lap or two.

marcdxn
28-09-2017, 19:01
I know I know but I'm really struggling with the brakes on all the cars I've driven. I absolutely love this game and this is definitely the future for sim racing in my opinion but, I JUST CAN'T STOP THE BLOODY CARS!! I've tried various different settings mentioned in the forum but it's just not working. I have the T3PA pro pedals with the spring mod thingy and I might have to bin it. I'm finding quite difficult in general for trying to get clean laps but compounded by not being able to stop and as you know, it's quite important on a racetrack lol

Same pedals and same mod... Possibly I use the rubber insert which really stiffens up the brake.

Same as above really I reduced the brake pressure to resolve lock ups sure you will sort it with some tweaking and practice.

z3r0cool77
28-09-2017, 19:01
Definetly dont use 100%. Thats guaranteed lockup. I prefer about 80% depending on the car. Using g920 I cam still lockem up but have plenty of range to work with before they do.

blinkngone
28-09-2017, 19:05
Some people have had improvement by reducing brake sensitivity as well as pressure. Easing on the brakes earlier can help as well as bias, bias toward rear if you are locking fronts but since you said you have already tied all the forum suggestions I don't know. Try some of my set ups for the GT3's at Dubai National since you are on PC, Ford GT seems to brake well there.

jimortality
28-09-2017, 19:31
Thanks guys, it's not so much locking but actually getting the car slow enough for the next corner. Example, in other sims I would try and brake depending on the track 150 to 100 meters before but I try that now and I'm struggling to get the car slowed to get the right line. Dave my race engineer keeps upping the brake pressure and moving the bias so obviously, he needs a few lessons from you guys as well lol

major sunscreen
28-09-2017, 19:45
Turn off your ABS to find out which tyres you're kicking up as well. It'll help you find a more natural braking style as well as tidy up your application of brakes. If running aero then brake hard early and ease off as the aero bleeds off with reducing speed. Turning off ABS really illuminates any weakness in your braking..

Roger Prynne
28-09-2017, 19:46
Does it go to 100% in the pedal config?

3800racingfool
28-09-2017, 19:58
Thanks guys, it's not so much locking but actually getting the car slow enough for the next corner. Example, in other sims I would try and brake depending on the track 150 to 100 meters before but I try that now and I'm struggling to get the car slowed to get the right line. Dave my race engineer keeps upping the brake pressure and moving the bias so obviously, he needs a few lessons from you guys as well lol

Yea you're definitely going to need to start braking sooner. By the time you hit the 150 board, if you haven't been braking yet, you're screwed.

My advice: ignore setup for now. Brake sooner, brake lighter. In a car with downforce the idea for most slow corners is to push the brake pedal to 100% for just a moment and then release to about 70% and slowly back off from there. You want to be coming off the brakes as you're turning in (so about 10% pedal or less) and, if you did it right, you should be able to be on the throttle just as you kiss the apex. In cars without downforce I've found you'll want to do a bit of the opposite. Start light and gradually build until you start turn-in at which point you start coming back off the brakes, again hitting the throttle just as you hit the apex.

For faster corners you want to drag on the brakes kinda like an old lady. Just be gentle and light and, again, come off of them on turn-in and then on the gas at the apex.

Also, the mantra "slow-in-fast out" is extremely underappreciated but also greatly misunderstood. For sure you want to be going in as fast as possible but the real key is, you wan to be on the gas as soon as possible (without spinning or running wide) and while you may blaze through a corner quickly, if you're not getting on the throttle until you hit the outside edge of the track, you're losing time at the end of the next straight compared to someone who's on the power at the apex of the corner.

honespc
28-09-2017, 20:05
The brake/lock behaviour has been vastly improved in pc2, and on street cars feels very realistic.

You can either leave brake pressures at full 100%. It will ask fine braking skills though from you, specially on road machines. Or reduce it and be more comfortable when braking, although you'll increase the distance on dry conditions.

Always reduce brake pressure under weather conditions. On snow particularly

DECATUR PLAYA
28-09-2017, 21:06
Yea you're definitely going to need to start braking sooner. By the time you hit the 150 board, if you haven't been braking yet, you're screwed.

My advice: ignore setup for now. Brake sooner, brake lighter. In a car with downforce the idea for most slow corners is to push the brake pedal to 100% for just a moment and then release to about 70% and slowly back off from there. You want to be coming off the brakes as you're turning in (so about 10% pedal or less) and, if you did it right, you should be able to be on the throttle just as you kiss the apex. In cars without downforce I've found you'll want to do a bit of the opposite. Start light and gradually build until you start turn-in at which point you start coming back off the brakes, again hitting the throttle just as you hit the apex.

For faster corners you want to drag on the brakes kinda like an old lady. Just be gentle and light and, again, come off of them on turn-in and then on the gas at the apex.

Also, the mantra "slow-in-fast out" is extremely underappreciated but also greatly misunderstood. For sure you want to be going in as fast as possible but the real key is, you wan to be on the gas as soon as possible (without spinning or running wide) and while you may blaze through a corner quickly, if you're not getting on the throttle until you hit the outside edge of the track, you're losing time at the end of the next straight compared to someone who's on the power at the apex of the corner.

^Really agree with this post.

We could really get away with some really late really deep braking on PCARS 1 It just doesn't work on PCARS 2. Brake earlier to set the turn up better. I was trying 150 to but 200 works better for me.

CyrealReeper
28-09-2017, 21:20
I don't know which cars you've been working with but I can say I was struggling with the Ginetta Junior braking using the default "stable" setup on a couple of tracks. When I was approaching turns I found I was unable to turn the car into the apex's reliably and found myself sailing past the apex and off the track. Since I was only quickly loading in the default stable setup and jumping onto the track I didn't realize the brake settings for the stable setup were quite awful, 95% pressure and 70/30 front/rear split. Once I reduced the pressure and moved the bias towards the back the car was much more compliant getting into the turn under braking.

ramm21
28-09-2017, 21:43
Can someone explain the function of brake pressure with ABS applied?

I understand about lockup without ABS and why brake pressure is vital in that sense. But with ABS active, isn't it supposed to only apply the amount of brake needed?

When you almost lock up, the system eases of the brake until the tires are spinning, then applies more brake until lock up... and so forth until you stop. So if the car has ABS and it controls the amount of brake input at the limit, wouldn't brake pressure be a moot point?

jimortality
28-09-2017, 22:09
I really appreciate all the hints guys, I will keep trying.

3800racingfool
28-09-2017, 22:56
Can someone explain the function of brake pressure with ABS applied?

I understand about lockup without ABS and why brake pressure is vital in that sense. But with ABS active, isn't it supposed to only apply the amount of brake needed?

When you almost lock up, the system eases of the brake until the tires are spinning, then applies more brake until lock up... and so forth until you stop. So if the car has ABS and it controls the amount of brake input at the limit, wouldn't brake pressure be a moot point?

Higher pressure = less leeway before ABS kicks in. ABS is only designed as a fail-safe to prevent wheel lockup. Your most efficient braking is still going to be threshold braking without the ABS activated (ie: just on the verge of ABS activating without it actually activating). Raising the brake pressure narrows this window and makes it easier to get the ABS system to activate. If you lower brake pressure you'll widen the window and make it less likely that ABS will trigger, but you may lose some stopping power.

Ideally, when changing it in setup, you want your point of maximum braking in the hardest brake zone to come just shy of tripping the ABS. This should provide you with maximum stopping power. This is not a set-in-stone thing though as you may need to raise or lower your pressure to accommodate things like weather, track differences, car types, and also personal preference.

hkraft300
29-09-2017, 00:20
Can someone explain the function of brake pressure with ABS applied?



You got it. Tat's how abs works. It'll modulate brake pressure to limit slip.

However, at 100% pressure and ABS, when you brake the tires still experience many micro-slides until you release the brakes. Because you're braking so hard, the tires are heavily loaded and hot at the turn in point, which can easily result in understeer and missing the apex.

Remember watching the thermal camera of the front tires in F1? Burning hot without locking and hot spots if there was a lock.

jimortality
29-09-2017, 00:44
I've been having 100% pressure then 100% abs in car management so new approach to this needed. There are some monster cars I want to drive like in the video I posted in videos thread, that car is beautiful but a real handful for me lol

hkraft300
29-09-2017, 00:55
Try 75% abs 85% pressure.

jimortality
29-09-2017, 00:56
Try 75% abs 85% pressure.

I will thanks, at work at the moment but will have a blast before I go to bed in the morning then I'll manage another couple of hours before work tomorrow night

jimortality
29-09-2017, 22:40
So, I reduced the brake pressure and it did help a bit but...............................I think this is the hardest sim I've had to deal with. I was gonna start a new thread but I'm finding the whole experience difficult. I think I've got to go back to basics and go round the track at 30 mph. It's fantastic but bloody hard.

Roger Prynne
29-09-2017, 22:42
Just hang in there mate and you'll get there eventually.

jimortality
29-09-2017, 23:01
Just hang in there mate and you'll get there eventually.

I hope so

hkraft300
30-09-2017, 00:26
What are you driving and how late are you braking?

jimortality
30-09-2017, 00:32
What are you driving and how late are you braking?

Well I'm braking earlier and I've set the brake pressure lower but it's just in general driving, I'm just rubbish lol

hkraft300
30-09-2017, 00:39
Check out driver61.com
And safe is fast on yt for some insight and quick reads.

Guy Smiley
30-09-2017, 00:49
How can you tell which brakes are locking first?

Aldo Zampatti
30-09-2017, 00:52
How can you tell which brakes are locking first?

90% of the time, fronts, that will cause understeer.. IF you lock the rears, you might feel a sudden snap oversteer.

jimortality
30-09-2017, 01:03
Check out driver61.com
And safe is fast on yt for some insight and quick reads.

I will thanks. All my other sims haven't been this tricky.

DreamsKnight
30-09-2017, 01:21
dead zones in pcars are a little stupid. 7% remove from the firt part and the last part. so you go to 100% in game before the pedal is at real 100%. first trick is to put dead zone at 0.
second trick in the sensibility. standard is 35, reduce to 25. i've got the same feeling of pcars 1 in this way.

third trick is to drive in a good way. :rolleyes:

peterCars
30-09-2017, 01:25
I'm a F1 nut, over from Codemasters, and I was looking forward to Formula A here..... career mode, low ai difficulty <40%, I did ok for one or two tracks and then could not get it at Road America at all, no grip - switched down to Formula C, same thing, default setups.... then started a new career in Formula Renault, and it is a dream on default setups and no changes (at least so far) - still only 30% difficulty though.... I'll stick with that for now and enjoy it, before going back to FA and struggling again.

jimortality
30-09-2017, 03:18
I'm a F1 nut, over from Codemasters, and I was looking forward to Formula A here..... career mode, low ai difficulty <40%, I did ok for one or two tracks and then could not get it at Road America at all, no grip - switched down to Formula C, same thing, default setups.... then started a new career in Formula Renault, and it is a dream on default setups and no changes (at least so far) - still only 30% difficulty though.... I'll stick with that for now and enjoy it, before going back to FA and struggling again.

I've started on 60% difficulty, and I'm nowhere near! Then people come on saying they beat the ai at 120% by 3 seconds really?????????????? I'm gonna drop it down to maybe 40%

Aldo Zampatti
30-09-2017, 03:23
I've started on 60% difficulty, and I'm nowhere near! Then people come on saying they beat the ai at 120% by 3 seconds really?????????????? I'm gonna drop it down to maybe 40%

I had little time to play since launch (Forum kept me busy) but I can say that I've did a complete round in career mode with Formula Renault with AI in 80 and (to me) it wasn't that challenging. Was able to beat them consistently by 1.5 secs.

I'll start the FA tonight and I'll let you know guys, but I do understand that being overtaken by a 60% AI is not something to be ashamed of. It happened to me with some specific cars/tracks...

Also, I've seen people beating AI at 120% while I was struggling at 80%. Sometimes is just matter of getting grasp of the tracks/cars .. some others is because those guys are just plain Aliens ;)

Aldo Zampatti
30-09-2017, 04:24
I had little time to play since launch (Forum kept me busy) but I can say that I've did a complete round in career mode with Formula Renault with AI in 80 and (to me) it wasn't that challenging. Was able to beat them consistently by 1.5 secs.

I'll start the FA tonight and I'll let you know guys, but I do understand that being overtaken by a 60% AI is not something to be ashamed of. It happened to me with some specific cars/tracks...

Also, I've seen people beating AI at 120% while I was struggling at 80%. Sometimes is just matter of getting grasp of the tracks/cars .. some others is because those guys are just plain Aliens ;)


So the same in the first Formula A race in Red Bull Ring. I did 1.5secs better time in Qualy and I had a 2.5seg better pace than AI at start (dry with wet tyres). When rain came, I was 1.8 to 2.0 faster than AI.

This is 80%/50% AI/AGG

jimortality
30-09-2017, 05:08
So the same in the first Formula A race in Red Bull Ring. I did 1.5secs better time in Qualy and I had a 2.5seg better pace than AI at start (dry with wet tyres). When rain came, I was 1.8 to 2.0 faster than AI.

This is 80%/50% AI/AGG

Well, I've only had the game a week and when I finish work in 52 mins, I've got 5 days off!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! guess what I'll be doing??

Aldo Zampatti
30-09-2017, 05:11
Well, I've only had the game a week and when I finish work in 52 mins, I've got 5 days off!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! guess what I'll be doing??
... well I'm assuming watching Formula 1 FP3 and then Qualy....

In between is a good time to play PCARS2 :)

jimortality
30-09-2017, 05:13
... well I'm assuming watching Formula 1 FP3 and then Qualy....

In between is a good time to play PCARS2 :)

Correct Mr Aldo! :D

Icecream-Inc
30-09-2017, 06:05
depending on ya rig adjust break pressure, and balance..
if memory serves, more pressure + more front/less back bias = quicker stopping.

jimortality
30-09-2017, 07:58
Does it go to 100% in the pedal config?

Guess what lol

Guy Smiley
30-09-2017, 14:01
What if they lock while driving straight? :(

Krambolage
30-09-2017, 14:36
@jimortality : if you aren't blocking wheels and still feel the car does not slow down quickly enough, check out the "engine braking" property in the ECU/ENGINE/GEARING tab.
Some GT3s had an engine braking set @5 (I've had time to test GT3s only, at a buddy's)
Setting it @1 does wonders !
Did not notice improvement when set @0.
Hope that helps :)

hkraft300
30-09-2017, 15:17
What if they lock while driving straight? :(

Who are "they"?

Guy Smiley
30-09-2017, 17:02
Who are "they"?

Sorry, what if my brakes lock while driving straight? How does one tell if it's the front or rear?

Guy Smiley
30-09-2017, 17:04
Actually I was just following the strategy of changing the brake bias in a random direction, and if it makes the brakes lock later, then that means I moved it in the right direction :).

jimortality
30-09-2017, 17:08
Thanks guys, appreciate your help. Much more positive today, as I calibrated my pedals again and it seems to have done the trick. I don't think I'd pressed it to 100% and with changing the brake pressure, it works great.

Roger Prynne
30-09-2017, 18:17
Guess what lol


Thanks guys, appreciate your help. Much more positive today, as I calibrated my pedals again and it seems to have done the trick. I don't think I'd pressed it to 100% and with changing the brake pressure, it works great.

Sooooo :rolleyes:

hkraft300
01-10-2017, 00:20
Sorry, what if my brakes lock while driving straight? How does one tell if it's the front or rear?

Push it forward the brakes lock sooner at the front. The car will want to plow straight ahead with no steering.
Push it too far back the rear brakes will lock and the car will want to spin.

Depending on your spring and Aero balance (how much grip you have at the front or back).


Actually I was just following the strategy of changing the brake bias in a random direction, and if it makes the brakes lock later, then that means I moved it in the right direction :).

Yes.