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AEIDOLONE
11-10-2017, 18:29
Bought my Thrustmaster TMX 2 weeks ago, and because of the pCARS bugged state I decided to remove the wheel from my table and mount it back after some patches.
I was just mounting it back and went, now obviously, to hard on that screw, trying to get a good grip on the table, and now here I am, standing in front of my unmountable wheel and I was just so excited to test out the new patch. :upset:

Any ideas of a short-term solution? :(

I guess I have to weld that screw back, but unfortunately I don't have a welding machine right next to me in cases I broke a screws on wheels...(I don't have it at all) And a ferrule/clamp either...

I really want to play this game tonight... :/

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Anthroban
11-10-2017, 18:31
Slather it with glue, or maybe 5 minute epoxy would be best, and stick it back in. It might hold.

z3r0cool77
11-10-2017, 18:32
Ditch the C clamp, pull out the drill and bolt that baby down.

AEIDOLONE
11-10-2017, 18:37
Slather it with glue, or maybe 5 minute epoxy would be best, and stick it back in. It might hold.

You mean?

I doubt it will hold out, but I have only some Loctite SuperBond Power Flex Gel... I guess I'll give it a try... :/

whip
11-10-2017, 18:39
Normal ppl rma it

AEIDOLONE
11-10-2017, 18:47
Ditch the C clamp, pull out the drill and bolt that baby down.

But it's not supposed to be mountable like this. I don't see any holes or something like that thats predicted for such mounting, or I am wrong? :suspicion:

AEIDOLONE
11-10-2017, 18:49
Normal ppl rma it

I guess that will be the final outcome...

honespc
11-10-2017, 18:50
r.m.a. it man

dault3883
11-10-2017, 18:50
conntact thrustmaster customer service see if you can get warranty just say it broke when tightening it dont tell them you over tightened it

dault3883
11-10-2017, 18:51
r.m.a. it man

r.m.a.= what?

z3r0cool77
11-10-2017, 19:00
But it's not supposed to be mountable like this. I don't see any holes or something like that thats predicted for such mounting, or I am wrong? :suspicion:

Sorry, I only assumed it had a mounting option. It appears the TMX is c clamp only.

blinkngone
11-10-2017, 19:13
Sorry, it looks like in the picture there are threaded holes? My previously rigged broken wheel.
242513
If there are threaded holes you can get a piece of plywood about 3 inches per side wider than the base and bolt the wheel to the plywood, then you can use c clamps to attach it to your desk so you don't need to drill. Maybe?

ctzn
11-10-2017, 19:19
RMA time. See if Thrustmaster will help.

Why do people tighten down the C clamp so hard? You just need to get it snug enough to hold the desk/mount without over tightening it.

thedarkjack
11-10-2017, 19:19
r.m.a.= what?

Return Merchandise Authorization

means send it in for warranty

Silraed
11-10-2017, 19:24
Why do people tighten down the C clamp so hard? You just need to get it snug enough to hold the desk/mount without over tightening it.

Why is it still designed in such a way that it is even possible to over tighten and break it so easily after so many people having the same issue is what I would like to know. It's just not a great design.

ELAhrairah
11-10-2017, 19:26
This will hold it together: http://m.loctiteproducts.com/p/13/0/7/epxy_metal_s/Loctite-Epoxy-Metal-Concrete

blinkngone
11-10-2017, 19:26
If you don't have threaded holes then take out the case screws, if they are machine screws you can get longer ones at the hardware store(they will have clamps too) to attach to a piece of plywood and you can play, then RMA.

Blake-Lee43
11-10-2017, 19:31
Why is it still designed in such a way that it is even possible to over tighten and break it so easily after so many people having the same issue is what I would like to know. It's just not a great design.

Because everything that is threaded can be over tightened. It's not a design floor it's just physics. Apply enough torque or tention to anything and it will break.

AEIDOLONE
11-10-2017, 19:35
Why is it still designed in such a way that it is even possible to over tighten and break it so easily after so many people having the same issue is what I would like to know. It's just not a great design.

Ok, I cannot say I didn't pushed it with a little force... but still think it's to sensitive for braking and it shouldn't be designed like this...

Anyways....I applied some glue and it surprisingly holds so far. Hope it holds until I pack it for a RMA, if they let me...

Thank you guys for your help!

Silraed
11-10-2017, 19:36
Because everything that is threaded can be over tightened. It's not a design floor it's just physics. Apply enough torque or tention to anything and it will break.

Of course. But the Thrustmaster solution of simply having the anchor point embedded in the plastic wheelbase shell is a weak point that breaks more often than it should.

Khyber GT
11-10-2017, 19:37
go buy some jb weld from local auto parts store. problem solved.

moBo
11-10-2017, 19:39
EXACTLY the same thing happened to my TMX last week! I was gutted, because as you know, there is no other way to fix our wheels to a desk/mount. BUT I have good news...after racking my brain for around 6 hours I finally had an idea and it worked!

This is all based on the fact that the bolt that sheered of is actually larger/wider in circumference than the hole it leaves.

Ok this requires you to remove/separate/unscrew the bottom part of the base. You will still then have all the gubbins of the unit attached to the bottom (which I really could not be arsed to remove) but you will be able to see the hole inside underneath the gubbins that was left. I don't have any long slim grips of any kind for this next part, so I simply got hold of a long screwdriver, and wrapped some sticky tape (cellotape) around the end and also around the sheered bolt, just enough to grip it, then I inserted the screwdriver so that the bolt was inline with the hole. I then was able to screw the fixing bolt WITH MOUNT ATTACHED up threw the hole into the sheered part and then attach to my desk as normal, just pulling the clamp a little downward so as to give the bolt inside some grip and leverage to tighten.
I hope I have been able to describe clearly enough to you my instructions and have attached a pic of the end result. Just remember to not over screw when removing or the bolt and screw/clamp will separate and fall inside and you will have to take the wheel apart again and repeat the process to fix lol.

Oh and for those saying "I don't understand why people tighten it too much?"...trust me, I NEVER ever tightened it too much! I treat my pc components with great care ;) It purely is a design flaw in the wheel. If I was to show you a close up pic of how the bolt that sheered of was actually connected to the wheel part by only 3mm depth/thickness and that being one of it's highest stress points, I'm sure you would instantly realise "design flaw" and maybe retract that statement ;) Oh and my bolt didn't sheer while attaching, it simply fell apart mid gaming.
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Blake-Lee43
11-10-2017, 19:43
Of course. But the Thrustmaster solution of simply having the anchor point embedded in the plastic wheelbase shell is a weak point that breaks more often than it should.

Eventually metal is going to have to meet up with plastic any way. So theirs always going to be a weak point. Not to mention the TMX is a cheap wheel so it's not exactly going to get premium mounting solutions .

AEIDOLONE
11-10-2017, 19:54
EXACTLY the same thing happened to my TMX last week! I was gutted, because as you know, there is no other way to fix our wheels to a desk/mount. BUT I have good news...after racking my brain for around 6 hours I finally had an idea and it worked!

This is all based on the fact that the bolt that sheered of is actually larger/wider in circumference than the hole it leaves.

Ok this requires you to remove/separate/unscrew the bottom part of the base. You will still then have all the gubbins of the unit attached to the bottom (which I really could not be arsed to remove) but you will be able to see the hole underneath that was left. I don't have any long slim grips of any kind for this next part, so I simply got hold of a long screwdriver, and wrapped some sticky tape (cellotape) around the end and also around the sheered bolt, just enough to grip it, then I inserted the screwdriver so that the bolt was inline with the hole. I then was able to screw the bolt WITH MOUNT ATTACHED up threw the hole into the sheered part and then attach to my desk as normal, just pulling the clamp a little downward so as to give the bolt inside some grip and leverage to tighten.
I hope I have been able to describe clearly enough to you my instructions and have attached a pic of the end result. Just remember to not over screw when removing or you will have to take the wheel apart again and repeat the process to fix lol.

Oh and for those saying "I don't understand why people tighten it too much?"...trust me, I NEVER tightened it ever too much! It purely is a design flaw in the wheel. If I was to show you a close up pic of how the bolt that sheered of was actually connected to the wheel by part by only 3mm depth/thickness and that being one of it's highest stress points, I'm sure you would instantly realise "design flaw" and maybe retract that statement ;)
242517

Sorry, I'm not that good in English, but what I understood is that I need just to fix that silver-looking bolt that sheered of to the other side of the hole (from the inside of the wheel) And because it is actually wider than the hole, just like you said, it won't slide out when I make force with the long screw? :D

moBo
11-10-2017, 19:57
Sorry, I'm not that good in English, but what I understood is that I need just to fix that silver-looking bolt that sheered of to the other side of the hole (from the inside of the wheel) And because it is actually wider than the hole, just like you said, it won't slide out when I make force with the long screw? :D

Yes exactly ;) It works brilliantly without any need for solder or glue and I can use my wheel again lol Phew!

AEIDOLONE
11-10-2017, 19:58
Eventually metal is going to have to meet up with plastic any way. So theirs always going to be a weak point. Not to mention the TMX is a cheap wheel so it's not exactly going to get premium mounting solutions .

Yeah, but when I see there are a ton of 80-70-60 buck wheels with not-so-brake-sensitive clamps, 200 €/$ is not cheap for me...

AEIDOLONE
11-10-2017, 20:04
Yes exactly ;) IT WORKS FANTASTICALLY and I can use my wheel again lol Phew!

Hahahah thank you dude! :D

I've just glued it, and it holds. o.O Tomorow I'll try to RMA it! If they don't let me, than I'll definitely do this!

And now... I go test out the patch! Thanks y'all!

moBo
11-10-2017, 20:12
Hahahah thank you dude! :D

I've just glued it, and it holds. o.O Tomorow I'll try to RMA it! If they don't let me, than I'll definitely do this!

And now... I go test out the patch! Thanks y'all!

You're welcome and good luck with the RMA. I myself could not get a response from Thrustmaster here in the UK so had no choice but to come up with a solution or buy a new wheel.

Mowzer
11-10-2017, 20:14
Buy a wheelstand pro.
http://wheelstandpro.com/

moBo
11-10-2017, 20:20
Buy a wheelstand pro.
http://wheelstandpro.com/

If you read the thread in full you will understand that the Thrustmaster TMX is clamp fixing only and does not come with fixing holes to hard mount to a stand ;)

Mowzer
11-10-2017, 20:25
If you read the thread in full you will understand that the Thrustmaster TMX is clamp fixing only and does not come with fixing holes to hard mount to a stand ;)

Ah ok my bad did not know that that suck then reapair job it is then.

GrimeyDog
11-10-2017, 20:25
Make a template from 3/4 in Wood that fits the bottom of the base --> Drill the Holes so that you can mount the wood template to the bottom of the wheel base as if you were going to hard mount it to a rig--> Note that the Bottom plate mounting screw holes must be Reemed out just enough so that the screw heads fit inside so it will sit flush on the mounting surface--> take the top thing off the tightening screw and get a Nut/Bolt that fits---> Now what you do is Drill a hole through the center of the wood where the tightening screw goes ---> on the Top side that will be against the wheel base Reem out the tightening screw hole just Deep and Wide enough that you can place the tightening Nut/Bolt ---> the Nut/Bolt should Recess into the hole a tad bit <--very important --> in test for fit --> once you have a Good fit with a tad bit of wiggle room Mix up some 5min Epoxy and put it on the sides of the Reemed out hole push your bolt in and put some Epoxy on the top to seal the Nut/Bolt in --> it would Not hurt to put a Screw through the Nut/Bolt and snug it up while epoxy dries to ensure a straight level fit while epoxy is drying --> This will also ensure that you don't get any Epoxy in the Nut/Bolt hole --> because then you have to clean it outta the threads More time wasted.

This can all be done with a drill and a dremel tool

See Pics below for example i painted them all black but look close you will see I made a 4 piece template for my Tx458 -->1 piece was to get rid of the offset at the back of the wheel and I used 3 pieces to get the wheel height to where i wanted it to be and i fixed the 2 screws in it so that it would match Fanatec wheel bolt holes using the same process i just outlined above to you --> the wheel will be solid as a rock again!!! it is a Permanent not just a quick fix you can use the wheel like this for the rest of its life.

Seems like alot but its really easy and it will be much cheaper than buying a new wheel --> BTW you can Not weld that!!! the metal is too thin and it will Melt like plastic....I have a welder and it the heat will Melt that wheel sooo Quick it will burst into Flames!!!

Hope this helps Let Me know if you Need more Help or run into any problems with the template build.

Edit: Dam kinda sucks the wheel cant be hard mounted but you can still take out the Wheel case together screws and screw the templte with longer screws into the holes that hold the wheel case together it should still work:yes:

Silraed
11-10-2017, 20:35
Eventually metal is going to have to meet up with plastic any way. So theirs always going to be a weak point. Not to mention the TMX is a cheap wheel so it's not exactly going to get premium mounting solutions .

For sure. It's all about how the force from the clamp is distributed into and through the mounting system though and the single embedded point to bear the full force that Thrustmaster have chosen is not the best solution.

It's not a premium wheel like you say and it's an easy and probably cheap to produce clamp system so what can you do :D.

AEIDOLONE
11-10-2017, 20:49
And here I am again... :uncomfortableness: The glued screw hold the wheel on the table, but the FBB un-glued it again xD I did just one race...

Man, I just try and RMA it tomorrow...

Bye bye PC2 for a week, or two, or three... -.-

Silraed
11-10-2017, 20:56
If all else has failed you then it might be time to reach for that trusty roll of gaffer tape.

dault3883
11-10-2017, 21:02
And here I am again... :uncomfortableness: The glued screw hold the wheel on the table, but the FBB un-glued it again xD I did just one race...

Man, I just try and RMA it tomorrow...

Bye bye PC2 for a week, or two, or three... -.-

maybe get your money back on it and get a Logitech G29 it has its own clamps or it can be hard mounted with fasteners

moBo
11-10-2017, 21:10
And here I am again... :uncomfortableness: The glued screw hold the wheel on the table, but the FBB un-glued it again xD I did just one race...

Man, I just try and RMA it tomorrow...

Bye bye PC2 for a week, or two, or three... -.-

Shame, but at least I showed you there IS an easy solution if you can't get an RMA. Trust me it works no problems and very easy to do.

AEIDOLONE
11-10-2017, 21:26
maybe get your money back on it and get a Logitech G29 it has its own clamps or it can be hard mounted with fasteners

Yeah, but my budget for a wheel was 200€, so I thought the TMX was the best choice, which actually still is, despite my problem...but if I manage to get my money back, I'll trow the extra money and buy this betterone....or the G920... :D

AEIDOLONE
11-10-2017, 21:28
Shame, but at least I showed you there IS an easy solution if you can't get an RMA. Trust me it works no problems and very easy to do.

That's still my backup plan if all fails! :D :victorious:

AEIDOLONE
11-10-2017, 21:31
Make a template from 3/4 in Wood that fits the bottom of the base --> Drill the Holes so that you can mount the wood template to the bottom of the wheel base as if you were going to hard mount it to a rig--> Note that the Bottom plate mounting screw holes must be Reemed out just enough so that the screw heads fit inside so it will sit flush on the mounting surface--> take the top thing off the tightening screw and get a Nut/Bolt that fits---> Now what you do is Drill a hole through the center of the wood where the tightening screw goes ---> on the Top side that will be against the wheel base Reem out the tightening screw hole just Deep and Wide enough that you can place the tightening Nut/Bolt ---> the Nut/Bolt should Recess into the hole a tad bit <--very important --> in test for fit --> once you have a Good fit with a tad bit of wiggle room Mix up some 5min Epoxy and put it on the sides of the Reemed out hole push your bolt in and put some Epoxy on the top to seal the Nut/Bolt in --> it would Not hurt to put a Screw through the Nut/Bolt and snug it up while epoxy dries to ensure a straight level fit while epoxy is drying --> This will also ensure that you don't get any Epoxy in the Nut/Bolt hole --> because then you have to clean it outta the threads More time wasted.

This can all be done with a drill and a dremel tool

See Pics below for example i painted them all black but look close you will see I made a 4 piece template for my Tx458 -->1 piece was to get rid of the offset at the back of the wheel and I used 3 pieces to get the wheel height to where i wanted it to be and i fixed the 2 screws in it so that it would match Fanatec wheel bolt holes using the same process i just outlined above to you --> the wheel will be solid as a rock again!!! it is a Permanent not just a quick fix you can use the wheel like this for the rest of its life.

Seems like alot but its really easy and it will be much cheaper than buying a new wheel --> BTW you can Not weld that!!! the metal is too thin and it will Melt like plastic....I have a welder and it the heat will Melt that wheel sooo Quick it will burst into Flames!!!

Hope this helps Let Me know if you Need more Help or run into any problems with the template build.

Edit: Dam kinda sucks the wheel cant be hard mounted but you can still take out the Wheel case together screws and screw the templte with longer screws into the holes that hold the wheel case together it should still work:yes:

Thank you for showing me this GrimeyDog. It's an another good solution.

dault3883
11-10-2017, 21:31
Yeah, but my budget for a wheel was 200€, so I thought the TMX was the best choice, which actually still is, despite my problem...but if I manage to get my money back, I'll trow the extra money and buy this betterone....or the G920... :D

Logitech G29 has more buttons than the G920. Its a play station wheel but works on PC too its what i use and the clamps are built in

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Anthroban
11-10-2017, 21:39
You mean?

I doubt it will hold out, but I have only some Loctite SuperBond Power Flex Gel... I guess I'll give it a try... :/

It has to be epoxy so it will bond with the plastic and dry solid. Don't try it if you're planning to try the warranty - though I'm not convinced this kind of thing is covered.

AEIDOLONE
11-10-2017, 21:52
It has to be epoxy so it will bond with the plastic and dry solid. Don't try it if you're planning to try the warranty - though I'm not convinced this kind of thing is covered.

Yeah, but the problem is that right now I don't have this epoxy stuff. :/ I used some basic glue, but it can be easily wiped, I haven't opened the wheel and will not do it, because of the warranty, and yes, it have 2 years warranty.

daohaus
11-10-2017, 22:11
you can cut a sheet of plywood or some MDF in a 12x12 square drill out the 2 holes counter sink the bottom of it so you can get a metric bolt up there and tighten it down. Once the base is securely affixed to the board you can use a couple C clamps or whatever and clamp that to the table.

dault3883
11-10-2017, 22:12
Yeah, but the problem is that right now I don't have this epoxy stuff. :/ I used some basic glue, but it can be easily wiped, I haven't opened the wheel and will not do it, because of the warranty, and yes, it have 2 years warranty.

id try to get your money back and go for a logitech wheel then you can normally get em pretty decent price on amazon

Exoil
11-10-2017, 22:43
If you get the RMA you could always order this from Ricmotech which will allow you to hardmount the base with two screws.

http://www.ricmotech.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=rmt-t150hmp&Click=6342

Ravager619
11-10-2017, 22:47
If you read the thread in full you will understand that the Thrustmaster TMX is clamp fixing only and does not come with fixing holes to hard mount to a stand ;)

I had a broken handle on the wheel mount for my T150. I'm using a keyring looped through the hole at the top of the screw and a carabiner clip to turn it to mount it now. I ended up buying a Wheel Stand Pro and highly recommend it. It gives the wheel a proper mounting surface and it won't slide around once it's secure on there.

AEIDOLONE
25-10-2017, 02:15
Ok, I managed to RMA the broken wheel and they even gave me my money back! :D :cool:

Now I am in a BIG dilemma, watched a dozen youtube vids but still don't know which one to buy... Please guys, can you help me out here:

- Logitech G29/G902

or

- Thrustmaster T300 RS


I know that the FBB in the T300 is maybe just a bit better, but the Logitech looks so damn better imo, especially the G902 although he has fewer button than his PS4 brother, and the pedals are also better. And no, I don't want to upgrade anything. :)

Cholton82
25-10-2017, 07:08
T300 GTE , Buttons look more authentic IMO .

AEIDOLONE
25-10-2017, 11:13
T300 GTE , Buttons look more authentic IMO .

Yeah, looks better than the RS, but still not better as Logitech. But thats just me. :rolleyes: :o

Roger Prynne
25-10-2017, 11:16
Looks aren't everything though, it's how the wheel feels is more important IMO.

AEIDOLONE
25-10-2017, 11:47
Looks aren't everything though, it's how the wheel feels is more important IMO.

Ok, which one you would suggest to me? :rolleyes:

I just can't decide... :/

According to all those reviews I read/watched I can summarize :

- G looks way better IMO
- G has more buttons
- G has way better pedals
- G has VERY good reliability
- G has better feel of the wheel with the leather part (and looks also better again IMO)
- G has REV LEDS
- G has a better clamp system
- G is a bit cheaper

BUT the most important thing on the T300 RS is it have this newer-tech belt system which delivers a bit better FBB, I just don't know IF this a BIT is enough to sacrifice a bit more money and all those mentioned above...:rolleyes: :l

But when I see that cost of the newer belt system comes with a poor reliability, and it gets quick broken, than I think the better option is the G...?

Bealdor
25-10-2017, 12:05
Third option: Check ebay for a used G27.

GTsimms
25-10-2017, 12:10
Ok, which one you would suggest to me? :rolleyes:

I just can't decide... :/

According to all those reviews I read/watched I can summarize :

- G looks way better IMO
- G has more buttons
- G has way better pedals
- G has VERY good reliability
- G has better feel of the wheel with the leather part (and looks also better again IMO)
- G has REV LEDS
- G has a better clamp system
- G is a bit cheaper

BUT the most important thing on the T300 RS is it have this newer-tech belt system which delivers a bit better FBB, I just don't know IF this a BIT is enough to sacrifice a bit more money and all those mentioned above...:rolleyes: :l

But when I see that cost of the newer belt system comes with a poor reliability, and it gets quick broken, than I think the better option is the G...?

T300, I have not had any issue with mine, yet. But, you need to be careful adding too much ffb or tightening anything on these wheels. I think, if Thrustmaster was to release information. It would probably come down to more of a user error in a lot RMA'd issues, due to the motor limitations. My years of Sim racing the only issues, that I have experienced are the brushes wearing out on motors G25/DFGT(2x).

FarChri
25-10-2017, 12:41
I had a G27 and it got quick broken - only used it for ~ 200 hrs. I first tried to fix it, but as I opened it and saw how bad the quality of some components was, I knew it was time for a change.

I went with the T300 GTE (has the better button layout compared to the 300RS in my opinion). Now I use the G27 shifter and pedals with the T300 GTE wheel. Works great and FFB is much better than the G27 had.

Don't get me wrong, I don't think the quality from the T300 is overall much better, but if you don't want to spent that much more money on a (maybe) better wheel, it seems to be a fair deal. Only the pedals shipped with it are crap...

TheRealWitblitz
25-10-2017, 12:50
Chuck it in the bin.

AEIDOLONE
25-10-2017, 13:10
Shit, I really wanted to buy the G, but it looks like the Thrustmaster is better. xD :D

C'mon, anybody with some love for the G?? :D

FarChri
25-10-2017, 13:22
Of course:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l4E4XC7qOfk

Bealdor
25-10-2017, 13:25
Shit, I really wanted to buy the G, but it looks like the Thrustmaster is better. xD :D

Com'on, anybody with some love for the G?? :D

If you don't want to use automatic clutch, get the G29/920.

Invincible
25-10-2017, 13:29
If you don't want to use automatic clutch, get the G29/920.

The biggest plus in my book for the G29 are the good amount of buttons - yet they're still not enough. I could use a second D-Pad.

TorTorden
25-10-2017, 13:37
Shit, I really wanted to buy the G, but it looks like the Thrustmaster is better. xD :D

Com'on, anybody with some love for the G?? :D

I got the G29 and it's working just swell for me, then again I haven't had any better, but I'm using more force pulling that wheel around than my actual car, granted I don't drive the Subaru the same way.

Main problem I'm having is it is forceful enough that it is sliding the office chair and myself around it and that's 212lbs of power nerd.

Can't really see it anywhere but what is your platform of choice ?
If you are on PC it's far easier to mix and match, but no such luck on consoles.
As for why I went with the G was mostly price, I wanted a wheel that was decent, but not too expensive and I got the g29 for 90 less than the t300.
Now that Pcars 2 has dragged it out of the closet I no longer regret it, and starting to fantasise about some weird dual purpose VR based simpit setup for both racing and flight sims, ugh, who am I kidding I mean Elite Dangerous.

As for buttons, I don't really see the huge value, instead of relying on wheel buttons I use voice attack, no fumbling for obscure buttons, I have so far D-pad mapped as default, KERS and handbrake on.
That's about it. If I want headlights I simply say 'lights' and they toggle etc.
I also use VA for media functions like start\stop\pause music etc etc.

Bealdor
25-10-2017, 13:41
The biggest plus in my book for the G29 are the good amount of buttons - yet they're still not enough. I could use a second D-Pad.

Another issue that purchasing a used G27 would solve...

drizzit
25-10-2017, 13:42
Depending on your budget I can recommend the T300 Alcantara edition http://mobile.thrustmaster.com/node/6640

I really don't like the feel of the "leather" wheels like the G29 and the normal T300 but this one feels great! Also come with the T3PA pedals so you get a clutch compared to the normal T300 that's a 2 pedal set.
I just recently changed my pedals for a CSP v3 set but the T3PA is a good set for their price point I just wanted to move up to a load cell other then that nothing to complain about.

Invincible
25-10-2017, 14:15
Another issue that purchasing a used G27 would solve...

Buying a wheel with even less buttons is better when you need more buttons on the wheel? :confused:

Bealdor
25-10-2017, 14:17
Buying a wheel with even less buttons is better when you need more buttons on the wheel? :confused:

You're forgetting the extra 8 buttons + the d-pad on the shifter. ;)

AEIDOLONE
25-10-2017, 14:31
Depending on your budget I can recommend the T300 Alcantara edition http://mobile.thrustmaster.com/node/6640

I really don't like the feel of the "leather" wheels like the G29 and the normal T300 but this one feels great! Also come with the T3PA pedals so you get a clutch compared to the normal T300 that's a 2 pedal set.
I just recently changed my pedals for a CSP v3 set but the T3PA is a good set for their price point I just wanted to move up to a load cell other then that nothing to complain about.

That's unfortunately above my budged...

F2kSel
28-10-2017, 00:03
My Logitech G25 wheel clamp just snapped in two, I'll try one quick repair if that fails it looks like I'll have to drill my desk and bolt it in place.
It looks like the plastic has become extremely brittle, I've already had to repair the wheels plastic internals as they all broke up a few months back.
I really need to replace the plastic internals with aluminium but without a lathe it's not going to be easy.

AEIDOLONE
28-10-2017, 01:17
Just got my G29 today. :D Oh man, those clamps are sooo good! This clamp system is so better than this stupid clamp by Thrustmater. :rolleyes:

BTW, does anybody have some FBB setting suggestion?

I'm figuring all day out what's the best, and I have come with:

- Jack Spade's ALT HIGH - 100-80-50-50 with dedzone removal (0.12 0.06), it's fits me the best...but...

Is there a better option? ^^

poirqc
28-10-2017, 02:08
Just got my G29 today. :D Oh man, those clamps are sooo good! This clamp system is so better than this stupid clamp by Thrustmater. :rolleyes:

BTW, does anybody have some FBB setting suggestion?

I'm figuring all day out what's the best, and I have come with:

- Jack Spade's ALT HIGH - 100-80-50-50 with dedzone removal (0.12 0.06), it's fits me the best...but...

Is there a better option? ^^

There's so much you can squeeze out of a G29. If you like what you have now, keep it. RO(t)I won't be worth it onward! :)

For what's it's worth, i find the default informative good enough! :D

In_The_Wind
28-10-2017, 02:32
I just ordered the game a few days ago, and should be here soon. I will just use the regular controller!:cool:

Silraed
28-10-2017, 02:53
You're forgetting the extra 8 buttons + the d-pad on the shifter. ;)

I still have the G27 shifter clamped to my rig just being used as a kind of button box, it's great.