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TrueValue
19-10-2017, 17:07
Hi Community!,

I am playing Project CARS 2 with my Thrustmaster T300RS right now and I am facing a severe problem. No matter what setting, my FFB nearly disappears after about one lap on the circuit. It gets very weak and it is hard to control the cars. Even if I use "raw" with gain and volume to 100 it is still super weak. After driving through the pit lane it is normal again for about half a lap, then it suddenly disappears again. Never had the problem with Project CARS 1 or any other racing game, in PCARS1 I could drive for hours without the FFB fading. Is this a bug or am I doing something wrong setting wise?
Help is much appreciated :)
Regards.

SIR_Driftalot
20-10-2017, 10:15
What car?
It just sounds like your grip is falling off.

GTP_RS172
20-10-2017, 10:47
Is your T300 overheating?

Atak Kat
20-10-2017, 12:38
It can be the T300 and not the game. When it gets hot, it automatically reduces the forces to help cooling. If you're using volume 100 + gain 100 then likely thats a very heavy steering feel and it's working very hard. And maybe its just too much for the T300. I found the same thing also with my T300 on any sim but usually only after several laps. I first experience it in PC1 when doing an endurance race.

There's a couple things you can do:
- you can configure the T300 to have the fan running constantly. Personally, I found this helps a lot to keep the T300 cool and not heat up so quickly. Haven't had any issue since I did this. The default configuration of the T300 has the fan come on only after it heats up. Then, the fan struggles to cool it down. By having the fan run constantly it helps keep it cool from the start and it won't heat up so quickly. Note that this requires that you update the T300 firmware to V25, which you need to do with a PC (I don't think it's possible using just PS4). Thrustmaster link here http://ts.thrustmaster.com/faqs/eng/thr_eng_00156.pdf with the copy/paste of the instructions below.
- reduce gain/volume from the start. If you like arm breaking FFB, then likely your out-of-luck. But there are lots of posts here with FFB suggestions that seem to work well with lower gain/volume.

Hope it helps.


“Automatic” cooling mode:

• •
When you are using the wheel in a game, the cooling fan starts up when the wheel has reached a certain temperature.
(= after a few minutes of gameplay, depending on the strength of the Force Feedback effects used)
When you’re done playing: due to the motor’s thermal inertia, the cooling fan continues to operate until the temperature drops below the fan’s startup level. Your wheel has been designed in this way in order to facilitate cooling, and to protect the motor.
(= this may take from 5 to 45 minutes, depending on the temperature reached while using the wheel in a game)
“Forced” cooling mode: (requires Firmware V25 or above)
• In this mode, the cooling fan operates whenever the racing wheel is powered up, and stops only
when the wheel's USB connector is no longer powered.
This mode enables quicker cooling of the motor, and is particularly useful: - When playing with a very high Force Feedback setting
- When playing in a high-temperature environment
• The selected mode is automatically saved to the racing wheel's internal memory (i.e. you do not need to repeat this process after restarting the wheel).
• You can switch from one mode to another at any given time (even during a game).
- Simultaneously press the “ST*” and “MODE” buttons
= The “Forced” mode becomes active (the LED flashes twice).
- Simultaneously press the “ST*” and “MODE” buttons
= The “Automatic” mode becomes active (the LED flashes once).
* On PC, the “ST” button matches the wheel's “8” button.
* On PS3TM, the “ST” button matches the wheel's “START” button.
* On PS4TM, the “ST” button matches the wheel's “OPTION” button.

RomKnight
20-10-2017, 15:37
Or, lower the "volume" in-game...good FFB is not necessarily heavy. If it is you're probably clipping meaning the wheel is always using 100% force.

It's not good for any type of engine to run at 100% all the time.

TrueValue
20-10-2017, 17:38
Hey guys,

thank you for answering.

First, my Thrustmaster has the forced cooling mode activated. My current FFB settings are:
Informative
Gain: 100
Volume: 63
Tone: 20
FX: 65

In my opinion that is not too high but I still loose FFB but now only in some corners. A few hours ago I played for nearly two hours and had no problems at all, after turning the PS4 off and on again later the problem was there again and my lap times were over 4s slower!

When the problem occurs I still have enough grip, the tires (Soft Slicks) are only one lap old on 20 degrees celsius warm track. The tires are not worn at all, but they are already in the operating window (80 degrees celsius).

The problem occurs on every car!
And no the T300 is not overheating, I have the forced cooling mode on and never had a problem in another racing game. The problem also vanishes if I restart the session but after one lap it is bad again.

Atak Kat
20-10-2017, 17:56
I don't know what to say or suggest.
I haven't experienced the same thing as you are descibing.

Are you drinking Beer while racing (like me....)......?;)

playdutch
20-10-2017, 20:06
Hi Community!,

I am playing Project CARS 2 with my Thrustmaster T300RS right now and I am facing a severe problem. No matter what setting, my FFB nearly disappears after about one lap on the circuit. It gets very weak and it is hard to control the cars. Even if I use "raw" with gain and volume to 100 it is still super weak. After driving through the pit lane it is normal again for about half a lap, then it suddenly disappears again. Never had the problem with Project CARS 1 or any other racing game, in PCARS1 I could drive for hours without the FFB fading. Is this a bug or am I doing something wrong setting wise?
Help is much appreciated :)
Regards.


sounds like your tires just getting on temperature.

Daz555
14-11-2017, 11:01
Have you checked to see if wheel is clipping or not (the graph and bar chart in the full HUD shows you the clipping). With 100 gain and 63 volume I suspect it is - and it will get hot quickly if it is clipping and go into safe mode in terms of force feedback.

spacepadrille
14-11-2017, 12:04
Hey guys,

thank you for answering.

First, my Thrustmaster has the forced cooling mode activated. My current FFB settings are:
Informative
Gain: 100
Volume: 63
Tone: 20
FX: 65

In my opinion that is not too high but I still loose FFB but now only in some corners. A few hours ago I played for nearly two hours and had no problems at all, after turning the PS4 off and on again later the problem was there again and my lap times were over 4s slower!

When the problem occurs I still have enough grip, the tires (Soft Slicks) are only one lap old on 20 degrees celsius warm track. The tires are not worn at all, but they are already in the operating window (80 degrees celsius).

The problem occurs on every car!
And no the T300 is not overheating, I have the forced cooling mode on and never had a problem in another racing game. The problem also vanishes if I restart the session but after one lap it is bad again.

This is a very very high ffb setting ! Try lowering it drastically, make a lot of laps to get used to a lower ffb, and slowly step by step tune it up. You can start i.e. INFO 50 30 50 20 witch is really a low ffb. Take time to "appreciate" what can be first like a lack of info, a dead wheel, who slowly take life as you get used to less stimulation.

TrueValue
14-11-2017, 15:01
Haven`t checked if the wheel is clipping, but I personally think my settings are not that high. Under Intensity 60 the wheel is really, really loose and feels like it is falling of in a short time.
I posted a video in a german Project Cars forum and a member there said, that I only have 40% FFB. Maybe that is the problem? But then again, I don't know why.

Here is the video, maybe you can figure something out.

Edit: Unfortunately I can not post any links due to Spam Protection. My channel is called "KarateKing28" , I only have one video up, this is the right one.

bradleyland
14-11-2017, 15:18
Here's the link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KSXYpCKTap4

bradleyland
14-11-2017, 15:22
Thank you for posting that video. It's incredibly helpful, and helps everyone narrow down the problem.

Your histogram indicates you're not clipping. Your graph is indicating forces mostly in the first three columns, which should be fine.

Here's a screenshot of the histogram, in case anyone doesn't feel like watching the video:

245218

Unfortunately, the only thing left to suggest is that there is a problem with your wheel. Do you play any other sim racing titles? If so, do you experience any drop off in FFB in those titles?

TrueValue
14-11-2017, 15:32
Yes, I am playing GT Sports at the moment and if I use a higher FFB than 6/10 the wheel starts to loose FFB after about 20-30 minutes.
I also played Project CARS 1 before and never had a problem, at least not one I can remember.

I also thought, that the wheel is overheating, but the wheel is brand new, and I play in a cold room in the basement, with forced cooling mode on. Of course there is still a chance, but if it really is overheating, than there is something wrong with the wheel.
I already contacted the Thrustmaster Support twice but never got an answer.

And by the way: Thank you very much for posting the video!

punkdog69
14-11-2017, 16:05
May be its the same Problem I Have with Info Flavour.
When you start pc2 with info ffb the feedback is over strong, after driving 1 or 2 rounds it falls down to the normal Level I expected.
Try restart session after driving a few corners, if its low after the restart than its its the same I have.
This mostly happens after a fresh pcars2 start in the first race.
With raw flavour this never happended.

spacepadrille
14-11-2017, 17:02
Unfortunately, the only thing left to suggest is that there is a problem with your wheel. Do you play any other sim racing titles? If so, do you experience any drop off in FFB in those titles?

This is right if the ffb widget is not bugged.... And my personal experience left me think that the ffb widget is sometimes bugged. I will try those 100 62 20 60 setting, to see how it feels and if the ffb widget says the same...

bradleyland
14-11-2017, 17:15
Yes, I am playing GT Sports at the moment and if I use a higher FFB than 6/10 the wheel starts to loose FFB after about 20-30 minutes.
I also played Project CARS 1 before and never had a problem, at least not one I can remember.

I also thought, that the wheel is overheating, but the wheel is brand new, and I play in a cold room in the basement, with forced cooling mode on. Of course there is still a chance, but if it really is overheating, than there is something wrong with the wheel.
I already contacted the Thrustmaster Support twice but never got an answer.

And by the way: Thank you very much for posting the video!

No problem :)

That pretty much confirms it. If the wheel is losing FFB in multiple titles, it has to be the wheel. Sadly, that means dealing with TM support :(

bradleyland
14-11-2017, 17:16
This is right if the ffb widget is not bugged.... And my personal experience left me think that the ffb widget is sometimes bugged. I will try those 100 62 20 60 setting, to see how it feels and if the ffb widget says the same...

I've run a really wide variety of FFB settings, and have definitely observed clipping in the FFB widget. My experience is that the FFB widget reflects the actual forces at the wheel, even in cars where the FFB is... strange.

bradleyland
14-11-2017, 17:40
My current FFB settings are:
Informative
Gain: 100
Volume: 63
Tone: 20
FX: 65

I just tried out the following settings:

Informative
Gain: 100
Volume: 62
Tone: 20
FX: 60

The weight isn't too heavy. It's really hard to visually guess (from the settings) what the weight of the FFB will be in pCARS 2, because of the interaction between Tone and Volume. Running low Tone really reduces the overall force, so high Gain and Volume are required.

IMO, the T300RS ought to be able to handle this level of force. I think the wheel has a problem.

Just for reference, this is how the forces are accounted for in the histogram:

https://i.imgur.com/cOSlR2R.png

spacepadrille
14-11-2017, 19:51
@Bradleyland : very useful comment, thanks !

I experienced also some ffb settings where the clipping occurs and is shown by the widget. But it happens that you feel you are obviously clipping and the widget reflects nothing...

bradleyland
15-11-2017, 00:02
@Bradleyland : very useful comment, thanks !

I experienced also some ffb settings where the clipping occurs and is shown by the widget. But it happens that you feel you are obviously clipping and the widget reflects nothing...

There is more than one reason FFB forces may go "flat". Clipping is only one of them. The widget can only show you clipping, it can't show the other issues (like when Fy drowns out other forces).

TrueValue
15-11-2017, 17:31
Thank you Bradleyland for your very helpful answers!

It really seems, like the wheel is broken. I will contact the support again and hope they will send me a new one.

I ordered an usb ventilator from amazon, which I plan on taping to the side of the wheel. I hope that it sucks out the hot air (or maybe it is smarter to blow in fresh, cold air?) to prevent the FFB from weakening.
It is a 12cm x 12cm ventilator so I hope it will get the job done, while I wait for an answer from the support.

RomKnight
15-11-2017, 18:00
The air flow inside might be prone to heat (due to spread) hot air into other components. I'd rather take the hot air from inside especially in summer where ambient temps can't be high(er)

diesel97
15-11-2017, 18:15
Thank you Bradleyland for your very helpful answers!

It really seems, like the wheel is broken. I will contact the support again and hope they will send me a new one.

I ordered an usb ventilator from amazon, which I plan on taping to the side of the wheel. I hope that it sucks out the hot air (or maybe it is smarter to blow in fresh, cold air?) to prevent the FFB from weakening.
It is a 12cm x 12cm ventilator so I hope it will get the job done, while I wait for an answer from the support.

just saw these and they look like they would work great

https://www.amazon.com/ELUTENG-Computer-Ventilator-Playstaion-Radiator/dp/B071Y4MGFK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510768064&sr=8-3&keywords=usb%2Bventilator&dpID=61d5j67vfeL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch&th=1

spacepadrille
15-11-2017, 18:39
There is more than one reason FFB forces may go "flat". Clipping is only one of them. The widget can only show you clipping, it can't show the other issues (like when Fy drowns out other forces).

Right. :encouragement::encouragement:

bradleyland
15-11-2017, 19:25
Thank you Bradleyland for your very helpful answers!

It really seems, like the wheel is broken. I will contact the support again and hope they will send me a new one.

I ordered an usb ventilator from amazon, which I plan on taping to the side of the wheel. I hope that it sucks out the hot air (or maybe it is smarter to blow in fresh, cold air?) to prevent the FFB from weakening.
It is a 12cm x 12cm ventilator so I hope it will get the job done, while I wait for an answer from the support.

Just a word of caution. The T300 already contains a fan, so you'll want to make absolutely certain that you position that 12cm fan to work with the existing fan, not against it.

You can see the way the fan works in this YouTube video (skip to 2:40 to see the inside).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SmmdA_4z_ak

It looks like the fan is situated to push air from left to right through the T300. This means that the vents on the left are intake, and the vents on the right are outflow. When you position your fan, make sure that it is correctly oriented to compliment this airflow.

IMO, the case design of the T300 is not at all suited for an external fan. If you are going to do anything, I would make a 120mm duct from a cereal box, and force air IN on the left hand side. Making a duct that fits the T300 case is going to be really tough though. If you're operating it in a cool environment (around 24C), then there really shouldn't be any need for additional cooling.

chops13
16-11-2017, 06:27
Yes your T300 is jacked. I had the exact same problem. I sent mine into thrustmaster after the usual round around (update firmware, turn autofan on, etc.) and then they sent it back with no explanation. Their results was they could not find the problem... yea because you have to play it for more than 5 minutes.

So basically my experience with thrustmaster support is terrible. They take forever to get back to you. This round trip took me about 4 months.

My solution ultimately was to turn the FFB way down, hook up and external fan and never buy thrustmaster again.

TrueValue
16-11-2017, 08:05
just saw these and they look like they would work great

https://www.amazon.com/ELUTENG-Computer-Ventilator-Playstaion-Radiator/dp/B071Y4MGFK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510768064&sr=8-3&keywords=usb%2Bventilator&dpID=61d5j67vfeL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch&th=1

That is exactly the one I ordered. It will arrive tomorrow and I will tell you my experience.

@bradleyland Thank you again, I will keep it in mind when I place the fan. Originally I wanted to buy a 8cmx8cm fan but the usb cable was too short.

Yesterday I plugged my Wheel to the PC and saw, that you can change some settings. I changed the Force Feedback from 70 to 100% and lowered it in the game, which seems to work a little better.
Does anyone have some good settings for this? I do not know what damper saturation means f.e , it was 100% before, I turned it down to 10.
Maybe if I change some of the settings here the problem will also be a bit better?

The possible settings are:

FFB in general:
Konstant:
Periodic:
Dampers?
Damper Saturation.

Advice would be appreciated. Thank you all in general for all the tips you gave me!

diesel97
16-11-2017, 12:31
That is exactly the one I ordered. It will arrive tomorrow and I will tell you my experience.

@bradleyland Thank you again, I will keep it in mind when I place the fan. Originally I wanted to buy a 8cmx8cm fan but the usb cable was too short.

Yesterday I plugged my Wheel to the PC and saw, that you can change some settings. I changed the Force Feedback from 70 to 100% and lowered it in the game, which seems to work a little better.
Does anyone have some good settings for this? I do not know what damper saturation means f.e , it was 100% before, I turned it down to 10.
Maybe if I change some of the settings here the problem will also be a bit better?

The possible settings are:

FFB in general:
Konstant:
Periodic:
Dampers?
Damper Saturation.

Advice would be appreciated. Thank you all in general for all the tips you gave me!

If you are playing on the PS4 all those settings mean nothing, they reset as soon as you plug it in the PS4. Those settings only work for PC gaming.

eracerhead
16-11-2017, 13:32
Informative and Immersive FFB flavors contain an 'autoscale' feature which lowers forces to automatically prevent clipping. It's supposed to operate after the first one or two laps, so that's probably why your forces are falling off at that point. This scaling operates on each different car you drive, but you should only notice this the first time you drive each one. Yorkie's latest video covers this in detail.

punkdog69
16-11-2017, 15:36
The autoscale seems to be recalculated every start of pc2.
In first race the FFB is real heavy and produces a lot of clipping, and than after 1 Round or a Session restart it falls down to normal level.
Stange is that this happens not with every car, but for me definitely with with the Ferrari Gt3 on PS4

TrueValue
16-11-2017, 16:18
The autoscale seems to be recalculated every start of pc2.
In first race the FFB is real heavy and produces a lot of clipping, and than after 1 Round or a Session restart it falls down to normal level.
Stange is that this happens not with every car, but for me definitely with with the Ferrari Gt3 on PS4

Experienced the same thing yesterday! Drove the Ferrari GT3 on the Nürburgring GP, first time the FFB was really heavy and good, I even turned it down from Intensity 60 to 40. Went out of private session, started a race, ended the race, went back to private testing, FFB was very weak.
Even if my wheel is broken, it should still handle Intensity 40, at least in my opinion.

bradleyland
16-11-2017, 17:35
I've been running your settings for a bit, and I noticed that my wheel is dropping force after a while as well. It may be, as eracerhead points out, the game autoscaling. I usually run Raw flavour, and I don't experience the drop in force. However, my FFB is, overall a bit lighter.

I also bumped up my overall FFB strength in Assetto Corsa, to see if I got any drop there... Sure enough, I did! So, I think what might be the case is that the T300 is just really temperamental. Average force over time is more important than peak forces (which is where you see clipping). Running FFB settings that result in a heavy center cause the motor to work all the time. I think this is building up heat and causing the T300 to reduce forces.

TrueValue
16-11-2017, 17:41
I've been running your settings for a bit, and I noticed that my wheel is dropping force after a while as well. It may be, as eracerhead points out, the game autoscaling. I usually run Raw flavour, and I don't experience the drop in force. However, my FFB is, overall a bit lighter.

I also bumped up my overall FFB strength in Assetto Corsa, to see if I got any drop there... Sure enough, I did! So, I think what might be the case is that the T300 is just really temperamental. Average force over time is more important than peak forces (which is where you see clipping). Running FFB settings that result in a heavy center cause the motor to work all the time. I think this is building up heat and causing the T300 to reduce forces.

So you recommend using the Raw setting combined with a lighter Intensity? What are your settings? Maybe they will work for me aswell.

bradleyland
16-11-2017, 18:22
So you recommend using the Raw setting combined with a lighter Intensity? What are your settings? Maybe they will work for me aswell.

I run a pretty different FFB setup than you do, so unfortunately, I doubt you'll like it. I run with the following as a base:

Raw 75/40/40/30

I adjust volume based on the car I'm in though. It can go as high as 60, and as low as 30.

I normally don't experience any reduction in FFB because that setup results in a lighter center feel. Basically, the motor isn't working as hard most of the time. There's no guarantee you'll like that feeling though.

I've already upgraded my pedals to Fanatec CSPv3. Next year I'm planning on moving to PC + VR and upgrading my wheel to a Fanatec CSW, or possibly an OSW direct drive wheel. I'm tired of worrying about whether my wheel is going to overheat during 2 hour racing sessions.

spacepadrille
16-11-2017, 22:23
I also ran TrueValue's ffb setup yesterday during more than 1 hour. I didn't experienced force reduction of the T300. This setup is nice, with no clipping, and a strong constant force around the center. Very pleasant to drive, my lap times were similar to those with my usual settings. But i missed the smooth and nice feeling of the suspensions, and the breaking feel. The real frustration is that no ffb setup can be brillant in all the feeling field.

punkdog69
17-11-2017, 07:53
Yesterday evening I experimented again with the ffb Settings and found one I'm (currently) verry happy with.

Tested with the GT3 Ferrari on Nordschleife.

RAW
Gain: 60
Volume: 44
Tone: 50
FX: 20

With this I didn't experienced any force reduction even when I rise Gain to 70.

TrueValue
17-11-2017, 16:30
So, my USB Fan arrived and I placed it to the left of the Wheel, so it should blow cold air in. If you consider buying one of these, don't even try to attach them to the wheel, it won't work. I placed a table right next to my wheel and the USB Fan stands on the table, directly facing to the holes on the side (maybe 5cm away) so the air should flow directly in.

I played for about 1.5 hours now and also tried multiple FFB settings. I can not say if the fan really improves the FFB. It seems to last longer, but eventually it will go down again. I realized, that every time I turn the wheel it feels like I am fighting against something on the inside of the wheel. It sounds like something is stuck, like the gears don't work properly.

It could also be the Autoscale of the Informative setting. I noticed, that a high volume makes the FFB really hard (which I like), even with Intensity down to 35.
If I use Raw Settings, there is no Heavy Center, which I also like. So Raw is nothing for me, but thanks anyway Bradleyland for giving me your settings.

I will test the USB fan further over the weekend. After my 2 hour play session I put the wheel in "Automatic" cool mode and placed the fan beneath it, and it shut down after about 4 Minutes. I think that is quite a good time and if it really was too hot it would take much longer. The manual says up to 45 minutes.

bradleyland
17-11-2017, 19:38
Yeah, I have a fan situated similarly. It's quite a bit more powerful than the 120cm PC fans, and I still have the force reduction issue. I think the problem is that the air isn't forced into the case. It's actually quite difficult to cause air to flow through a closed space like the T300 outer casing, and the tiny vents they use don't really help matters. They really need a fan that forces air into/out of the case, rather than a fan that just moves air around inside.

http://i.imgur.com/OKd2iUEl.jpg (https://imgur.com/OKd2iUE)

IceShaft
30-11-2017, 10:07
Just a quick info request for the people who, like me, have experienced problems with the T300 and sadly had to return it, replace it or buy a new one.

Do you know if the latest wheels that Thrustmaster sells on amazon come with the latest firmware installed?
I don’t have a pc so I’m one of those who can’t update the firmware and since I’m getting a new T300 Alcantara Ed (as a replacement of the broken one) I’m literally scared about breaking the new one as well.
I would like turn the fan in the always on mode in order to avoid the overheating and I’m pretty sure I will lower the FF gain in the game.

bradleyland
30-11-2017, 15:23
Just a quick info request for the people who, like me, have experienced problems with the T300 and sadly had to return it, replace it or buy a new one.

Do you know if the latest wheels that Thrustmaster sells on amazon come with the latest firmware installed?
I don’t have a pc so I’m one of those who can’t update the firmware and since I’m getting a new T300 Alcantara Ed (as a replacement of the broken one) I’m literally scared about breaking the new one as well.
I would like turn the fan in the always on mode in order to avoid the overheating and I’m pretty sure I will lower the FF gain in the game.

It's impossible to know for sure. The problem is twofold:

A) When you buy through Amazon, the seller might actually be a third-party.

B) You can't know how old their stock is, so you might get a wheel that is 6 months old from one vendor, or 1 month old from another.

It's really important to be able to update your firmware. We're a Mac household, but I run VirtualBox with Windows on one of my iMacs. There are just too many gadgets that require Windows at some point or another.

IceShaft
30-11-2017, 17:20
It's really important to be able to update your firmware. We're a Mac household, but I run VirtualBox with Windows on one of my iMacs. There are just too many gadgets that require Windows at some point or another.

Well I just got it today and the manual "always on" fan mode works (pressing "options" and "mode" at the same time) so it has at least the 25 Firmware on it.
I tried using vmware fusion with a Win10 virtual machine to install the drivers but windows doesn't recognize the wheel as a T300 but as a generic "Thrustmaster FFB wheel", making it impossible to update.

Anyway I already got what I was looking for so I'm good for now.
I'll keep my fingers crossed hoping this new wheel will last longer :(

TrueValue
01-12-2017, 09:59
Well I just got it today and the manual "always on" fan mode works (pressing "options" and "mode" at the same time) so it has at least the 25 Firmware on it.
I tried using vmware fusion with a Win10 virtual machine to install the drivers but windows doesn't recognize the wheel as a T300 but as a generic "Thrustmaster FFB wheel", making it impossible to update.

Anyway I already got what I was looking for so I'm good for now.
I'll keep my fingers crossed hoping this new wheel will last longer :(

Glad you got a wheel with firmware V25 already installed. Got my wheel in October and thankfully it was also already there. Hope you have more luck this time.

I promised to tell you guys my experience with the fan. After long testing I think, that it definetly helps. My current FFB Settings are Informative 90/58/16/40 and before I had the fan the FFB would completly disappear after a while (about 10-20 minutes).
Now the FFB still gets weaker after about 30 - 40 minutes ( so later than before) but not in the same amount as before. Before I had the fan the FFB would drop from 100% to 10% maximum, not it drops to about 60% (of course all these data is subjective).

So, if you have 10 Dollars to spare I would recommend to buy the fan, of course only if you experience FFB reduction.

By the way I got an answer from the support (after 3 weeks!. They told me to just turn the FFB down. Wow. A 350 Dollar wheel and I can't use more than 50% FFB. Shame on you Thrustmaster. If my wheel is ever going to break, I will buy a Fanatec.

IceShaft
01-12-2017, 12:44
well... Thrustmaster's answer is like giving up on the problem.
It seems like their wheels can't handle new games, these products are years old anyway and I've never seen anybody complain about a T150 yet (maybe because it's weaker, I don't know).
But still, you bought a new wheel in october and after 2 months it's already damaged... I'm starting to be afraid just to play now :(