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Ball325
25-10-2017, 01:45
I just updated my wheel to the new firmware because i was having problems with FFB dying. Now there is ZERO feel in the corners. Wheel shakes violently in a straight line, but soon as I turn it feels like I'm on ice. There is FFB resistance but no actual feedback. Anyone else experience this after the new firmware?

JasonSandwich
25-10-2017, 01:50
Which model Thrustmaster?

Juiced46
25-10-2017, 02:04
What Firmware version are you on?

What are your wheel settings?

Have you tried a HARD reset on your Xbox and NOT use "Instant On?"

Juiced46
25-10-2017, 02:23
Wheel settings where the same as before, I tried a few different variants nothing fixed the total lack of FFB mid corner. It feels like soon as I turn the wheel i'm on ice. No feedback what so ever.

The most recent firmware, thrustmaster doesnt exactly let you choose...

I've never used instant on.

What are your exact wheel settings?

Have you viewed your FFB in Telemetry to see if the wheel is clipping?

I know you said you are on the most recent firmware, but what does the Thrustmaster Control Panel show for Firmware? V50?

Also, in the Thrustmaster Control Panel, the one on the actual PC where you upgraded firmware, did you adjust any of the settings in there like Gain, DOR etc? I would reconnect your TX back to your PC to confirm you didn't accidentally change anything in there.

Ball325
25-10-2017, 02:25
TX, my wheel settings are RAW 100/60/55/30. I've tried higher volume lower volume higher FX, nothing fixes this mid corner limpness. i used to have great mid corner feel. it's all gone now.

firmware is whatever the most recent is. 51? i cant remember the actual number I was so pissed off I wanted to throw the whole rig out the window.

Ball325
25-10-2017, 02:26
What are your exact wheel settings?

Have you viewed your FFB in Telemetry to see if the wheel is clipping?

I know you said you are on the most recent firmware, but what does the Thrustmaster Control Panel show for Firmware? V50?

Also, in the Thrustmaster Control Panel, the one on the actual PC where you upgraded firmware, did you adjust any of the settings in there like Gain, DOR etc? I would reconnect your TX back to your PC to confirm you didn't accidentally change anything in there.

no I did just check those and made sure i reset all to default. which changed nothing.

Juiced46
25-10-2017, 02:28
TX, my wheel settings are RAW 100/60/55/30. I've tried higher volume lower volume higher FX, nothing fixes this mid corner limpness. i used to have great mid corner feel. it's all gone now.

firmware is whatever the most recent is. 51? i cant remember the actual number I was so pissed off I wanted to throw the whole rig out the window.

I see what you did. You installed the Windows Drivers for PC with V51 under the "Drivers+Firmware". You need to download from the Firmware tab which has V50. The drivers tab are for using with PC. V50 is still available for download which is what you were using. I would reinstall those.

Ball325
25-10-2017, 02:32
I see what you did. You installed the Windows Drivers for PC with V51 under the "Drivers+Firmware". You need to download from the Firmware tab which has V50. The drivers tab are for using with PC. V50 is still available for download which is what you were using. I would reinstall those.

when i go to TX base and bring up the firmware it takes me to a PDF but the links are dead.

checked v51.

how can i roll it back?

Juiced46
25-10-2017, 02:35
when i go to TX base and bring up the firmware it takes me to a PDF but the links are dead.

Sorry I was wrong on my last post, I was looking at it through my phone, I am on my PC now, disregard that last post. It looks like there is now a V51.

I have the old V50 file if you want to revert to that and try I can email it. But it looks like that V51 just came out yesterday and is the latest firmware. I am tempted to update mine, but mine has been working so well, except for a little issue I had tonight.

Ball325
25-10-2017, 02:39
Sorry I was wrong on my last post, I was looking at it through my phone, I am on my PC now, disregard that last post. It looks like there is now a V51.

I have the old V50 file if you want to revert to that and try I can email it. But it looks like that V51 just came out yesterday and is the latest firmware. I am tempted to update mine, but mine has been working so well, except for a little issue I had tonight.

I'd avoid it. Trying to find v50 exe, the way they label their versions is almost as retarded as their update process. 2017_TTRS_6, is 5 V50?

Juiced46
25-10-2017, 02:43
I'd avoid it. Trying to find v50 exe, the way they label their versions is almost as retarded as their update process. 2017_TTRS_6, is 5 V50?

2016_TTRS_2 is the only firmware I have on my computer and ever downloaded for this wheel which is V50 for sure. The 2017_TTRS_6 is the newest which is V51 which you just installed

Ball325
25-10-2017, 02:44
2016_TTRS_2 is the only firmware I have on my computer and ever downloaded for this wheel which is V50 for sure. The 2017_TTRS_6 is the newest which is V51 which you just installed

I'm nervous to try and roll it back, I know often times devices don't like going backwards.

Juiced46
25-10-2017, 02:50
I'm nervous to try and roll it back, I know often times devices don't like going backwards.

I do not blame you. What cars were you driving? Also I would pull up telemetry while racing and make sure the wheel is not clipping.

Did you happen to change in the configuration tab "damper saturation"? I run this at zero(default) and change my wheel weight through volume to my liking. I leave Gain at 100 also. I leave speed sensitivity at default also. To me it made the wheel feel like crap adjusting it.

GTsimms
25-10-2017, 02:53
2017_TTRS_4 had a deadzone. But, make sure you read the TM install notes and follow them on the install.

Ball325
25-10-2017, 02:53
I do not blame you. What cars were you driving? Also I would pull up telemetry while racing and make sure the wheel is not clipping.

Did you happen to change in the configuration tab "damper saturation"? I run this at zero(default) and change my wheel weight through volume to my liking. I leave Gain at 100 also. I leave speed sensitivity at default also. To me it made the wheel feel like crap adjusting it.

i've checked the telemetry sometimes.

mostly drive GT3 cars.

i run a higher damper saturation because i was never able to get the FFB to feel strong enough with just volume, and anytime i did, i had no feeling of kerbs.

Juiced46
25-10-2017, 02:55
Also another thing I just thought of. On the wheel itself (not in game) Make sure the wheel is on 900 DOR. Its D-pad left and the shift paddel button,4 green flashes is 900 DOR. Also make sure wheel sensitivity is on 1. Mode Button on wheel base and click the shifter paddle until you see 1 green flash. I would check that. Then make sure you are calibrating the wheel correctly.

Turn the wheel right in the calibration screen past the soft lock to 100. Then center it, turn it right again until you see 900. This is how I calibrate and it works perfect.

Ball325
25-10-2017, 02:56
2017_TTRS_4 had a deadzone. But, make sure you read the TM install notes and follow them on the install.

i never had that one. I've been on the firmware mine shipped with (got it this past january) and it's worked well for me. PC2 had some issues, but nothing major until after the patch. but now, I can't play this game with the wheel like it is. It feels like Daytona USA arcade.

Juiced46
25-10-2017, 02:59
i've checked the telemetry sometimes.

mostly drive GT3 cars.

i run a higher damper saturation because i was never able to get the FFB to feel strong enough with just volume, and anytime i did, i had no feeling of kerbs.

Bring damper saturation back to zero and see if that helps fix your new issue, bump volume up. If you cannot feel curbs something is not adjusted correctly in the Tone settings. You may be clipping the wheel. I would check telemetry again. See if its clipping when your FFB dropped out. I would start from square one and make one adjustment at a time. You can do it all during the race (except for anything in the config tab)

jimortality
25-10-2017, 03:03
I think with your TX you should be using informative. I have a T300 and this is by far the best setting.

Ball325
25-10-2017, 03:03
Also another thing I just thought of. On the wheel itself (not in game) Make sure the wheel is on 900 DOR. Its D-pad left and the shift paddel button,4 green flashes is 900 DOR. Also make sure wheel sensitivity is on 1. Mode Button on wheel base and click the shifter paddle until you see 1 green flash. I would check that. Then make sure you are calibrating the wheel correctly.

Turn the wheel right in the calibration screen past the soft lock to 100. Then center it, turn it right again until you see 900. This is how I calibrate and it works perfect.

I havent checked that, it's possible it reset all that during the update. I'll check it tomorrow. I can't be bothered tonight.

Juiced46
25-10-2017, 03:07
I think with your TX you should be using informative. I have a T300 and this is by far the best setting.


I dont agree with that. I tried informative tonight with many tweaks and ended up going back to Raw, I preferred that feel better. Its all personal preference though.

Ball325
25-10-2017, 04:47
I dont agree with that. I tried informative tonight with many tweaks and ended up going back to Raw, I preferred that feel better. Its all personal preference though.

Agreed, before this issue Informative and Immersive seem to try too hard and ultimately feel unrealistic. Maybe if they sort the dead zones and tweaking of the FFB at center and can smooth it bit those will work, but RAW has far and above been the most realistic feeling. I still struggle to feel the tires through the wheel though, maybe next patch (which better be soon).

jimortality
25-10-2017, 05:02
I dont agree with that. I tried informative tonight with many tweaks and ended up going back to Raw, I preferred that feel better. Its all personal preference though.

I meant immersive but as you say, it is personal preference.

Ball325
28-10-2017, 01:20
checked rotation angle and all. still have awful mid turn feedback. It feels like the car isnt connected to the road.

Juiced46
28-10-2017, 13:15
checked rotation angle and all. still have awful mid turn feedback. It feels like the car isnt connected to the road.

Watch telemetry and see if you clipping....

Ball325
30-10-2017, 17:40
Watch telemetry and see if you clipping....

First I need to find a guide on how to interpret the wheel graphs. Second, after this update that first bar on the left ( i think it's blue?) is non-existent. It never moves as in, it's invisible. I remember seeing all the bars in the graph fluctuate in some manner before my patch.

Checked Immersive and Informational, both that wheel center glitch where it just freaks out and goes left and right. Go back to RAW and the center actually feels good now, the deadzone that was a minor issue before is gone and now I have great off center feedback still about 10-15 degrees of input and then it linearly falls off to zero. So all my mid-corner inputs have no feel to them. I can't feel the rear end of the car at all, no longer feel lockups, can barely feel kerbs. I jack up the settings to see if I can feel something and again, at center I feel EVERYTHING, soon as I turn the wheel it goes away.

Working with Thrustmaster now to diagnose the issue. Will keep you guys updated.


UPDATE:

https://www.projectcarsgame.com/uploads/2/0/6/5/20658008/02e-hud-03-telemetry_orig.png

The blue bar on the FFB graph is non-existent in my game after the v51 update. It never moves, so I never see the blue color. I dont know what i means, if anything at all. Just an observation. (I stole this picture from another thread that showed the telemetry to use as an example.

Juiced46
30-10-2017, 22:40
The 1st blue bar is 0-20%, 2nd 20-40%, 3rd 40-60%, 4th 60-80% 5th 80-100%. The 6th bar is over 100% which is clipping which would be red. Do any of those bars move at all? Does the horizontal white bar move at all? That is showing FFB force.

Dumb question, have you tried using a different USB cable to the wheel?

Here is a video that explains everything FFB related. At the 22:00 mark, it explains the bar graph.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=4&v=gW5ESYLlNnk

Juiced46
31-10-2017, 23:29
Checking in to see if you had any updates?

PotatoMasher81
01-11-2017, 14:51
is there any point in upgrading the firmware for the TX at this point? or is it a risk that the update causes issues?

msmith792
01-11-2017, 15:20
I had a similar experience with T500. I have since reverted back to the older driver

Juiced46
01-11-2017, 18:06
is there any point in upgrading the firmware for the TX at this point? or is it a risk that the update causes issues?

From the people that have went to V51 and their wheel is working fine. They said they feel no difference. IMO, there is no improvement. I would leave it.

OPs issus are a bit different also.

I tried my settings tbat I use on RAW but switched to immersive, when I did this. Wheel was shaking on straights, FFB thru turns was light and it just felt like crap. Went back to raw and all feels good again

Ball325
01-11-2017, 20:40
Checking in to see if you had any updates?

Sorry, didn't have time this weekend. I dove head first into the video you shared in regards to reading the FFB and I noticed some very strange things. The mid range of my FFB barely ever moves it seems. and from what I am understanding that could be what I am feeling with having no force or feedback through the wheel in mid-corner.

Here is a quick clip of me messing around with it as I was learning. Perhaps someone more knowledgeable than myself can shed some light on this.

I think I had some slight clipping in this clip, I turned a few things down to prevent that but as I did so I lost the weight behind the wheel that I like.

http://xboxdvr.com/gamer/Ball325/video/38636368

Juiced46
02-11-2017, 03:02
Sorry, didn't have time this weekend. I dove head first into the video you shared in regards to reading the FFB and I noticed some very strange things. The mid range of my FFB barely ever moves it seems. and from what I am understanding that could be what I am feeling with having no force or feedback through the wheel in mid-corner.

Here is a quick clip of me messing around with it as I was learning. Perhaps someone more knowledgeable than myself can shed some light on this.

I think I had some slight clipping in this clip, I turned a few things down to prevent that but as I did so I lost the weight behind the wheel that I like.

http://xboxdvr.com/gamer/Ball325/video/38636368

You are not having slight clipping, you are basically clipping through the whole video. This makes sense as you why you have no FFB during turns, because it is clipping.

I would start back at the basics. Damper Saturation at 0. Gain 100, Volume, FX and Tone @ 50. Start with that as a base. Leave those settings and switch from Immersive, Informative, and Raw, see what it feels like and watch for clipping in telemtry. I can tell you with Raw, mine feels good. No clipping at those specs. If I switch to Immersive, I get light FFB on turns, shaking on straights and a jerking wheel coming out of a turn. If you use those above settings on Raw, and your telemetry is showing red(clipping) you have a problem with the Wheel itself, or something as dumb as a bad USB cable. Its not the game....

What are you wheel settings in the Thrustmaster Control Panel (when connected to a PC)?

Something is definitely not right. Tomorrow I will try your exact settings and see if it clips that bad. Are you using Raw, informative, or immersive in that video? Raw has always worked best for me.

I like a heavier wheel like you mentioned in a previous post. I have raced (in real life) a Ferrari 458, 488, McLaren MP4-12C and my personal car which is a new BMW M3. So I know what it feels like in real life. I have hit a point in Pcars where it is too heavy for my taste also but still not clipping. But kurbs are definetely not as forceful as I would like. I need to spend some time tweaking that. But I can get it pretty heavy and not clip. Turn you damper saturation to 0. start back at 100/50/50/50 and see if it stops clipping.

Ball325
02-11-2017, 03:24
You are not having slight clipping, you are basically clipping through the whole video. This makes sense as you why you have no FFB during turns, because it is clipping.

I would start back at the basics. Damper Saturation at 0. Gain 100, Volume, FX and Tone @ 50. Start with that as a base. Leave those settings and switch from Immersive, Informative, and Raw, see what it feels like and watch for clipping in telemtry. I can tell you with Raw, mine feels good. No clipping at those specs. If I switch to Immersive, I get light FFB on turns, shaking on straights and a jerking wheel coming out of a turn. If you use those above settings on Raw, and your telemetry is showing red(clipping) you have a problem with the Wheel itself, or something as dumb as a bad USB cable. Its not the game....

What are you wheel settings in the Thrustmaster Control Panel (when connected to a PC)?

Something is definitely not right. Tomorrow I will try your exact settings and see if it clips that bad. Are you using Raw, informative, or immersive in that video? Raw has always worked best for me.

I like a heavier wheel like you mentioned in a previous post. I have raced (in real life) a Ferrari 458, 488, McLaren MP4-12C and my personal car which is a new BMW M3. So I know what it feels like in real life. I have hit a point in Pcars where it is too heavy for my taste also but still not clipping. But kurbs are definetely not as forceful as I would like. I need to spend some time tweaking that. But I can get it pretty heavy and not clip. Turn you damper saturation to 0. start back at 100/50/50/50 and see if it stops clipping.

Yeah, I've raced those as well and am trying to replicate that feeling but i havent had any luck.

PotatoMasher81
02-11-2017, 08:19
From the people that have went to V51 and their wheel is working fine. They said they feel no difference. IMO, there is no improvement. I would leave it.

OPs issus are a bit different also.

I tried my settings tbat I use on RAW but switched to immersive, when I did this. Wheel was shaking on straights, FFB thru turns was light and it just felt like crap. Went back to raw and all feels good again

Ok, thanks for the info!

Ball325
02-11-2017, 13:20
You are not having slight clipping, you are basically clipping through the whole video. This makes sense as you why you have no FFB during turns, because it is clipping.

I would start back at the basics. Damper Saturation at 0. Gain 100, Volume, FX and Tone @ 50. Start with that as a base. Leave those settings and switch from Immersive, Informative, and Raw, see what it feels like and watch for clipping in telemtry. I can tell you with Raw, mine feels good. No clipping at those specs. If I switch to Immersive, I get light FFB on turns, shaking on straights and a jerking wheel coming out of a turn. If you use those above settings on Raw, and your telemetry is showing red(clipping) you have a problem with the Wheel itself, or something as dumb as a bad USB cable. Its not the game....

What are you wheel settings in the Thrustmaster Control Panel (when connected to a PC)?

Something is definitely not right. Tomorrow I will try your exact settings and see if it clips that bad. Are you using Raw, informative, or immersive in that video? Raw has always worked best for me.

I like a heavier wheel like you mentioned in a previous post. I have raced (in real life) a Ferrari 458, 488, McLaren MP4-12C and my personal car which is a new BMW M3. So I know what it feels like in real life. I have hit a point in Pcars where it is too heavy for my taste also but still not clipping. But kurbs are definetely not as forceful as I would like. I need to spend some time tweaking that. But I can get it pretty heavy and not clip. Turn you damper saturation to 0. start back at 100/50/50/50 and see if it stops clipping.

So I tried this and made sure I wasn't clipping with saturation at 0. I got a little mid corner feedback from the road surface and tires, but not steering force. Still a lot lighter than I like, I tried turning the TONE up to see if I could then feel the tires more and as that went up I started getting more and more clipping.

My target is to never see the red bar on the graph correct? I recorded a clip, but Xbox decided that I didn't so I'll try again tonight.

It still feel so drastically different than it did before the update. Before I'd have the wheel pushing against me mid corner as the car slid or suspension compressed. Now I just sort of get some jerks from it and that's it.

tennenbaum
02-11-2017, 16:07
First I need to find a guide on how to interpret the wheel graphs. Second, after this update that first bar on the left ( i think it's blue?) is non-existent. It never moves as in, it's invisible. I remember seeing all the bars in the graph fluctuate in some manner before my patch.

Checked Immersive and Informational, both that wheel center glitch where it just freaks out and goes left and right. Go back to RAW and the center actually feels good now, the deadzone that was a minor issue before is gone and now I have great off center feedback still about 10-15 degrees of input and then it linearly falls off to zero. So all my mid-corner inputs have no feel to them. I can't feel the rear end of the car at all, no longer feel lockups, can barely feel kerbs. I jack up the settings to see if I can feel something and again, at center I feel EVERYTHING, soon as I turn the wheel it goes away.

Working with Thrustmaster now to diagnose the issue. Will keep you guys updated.


UPDATE:

https://www.projectcarsgame.com/uploads/2/0/6/5/20658008/02e-hud-03-telemetry_orig.png

The blue bar on the FFB graph is non-existent in my game after the v51 update. It never moves, so I never see the blue color. I dont know what i means, if anything at all. Just an observation. (I stole this picture from another thread that showed the telemetry to use as an example.

QUICK QUESTION: is the yellow FFB graph (as is pCars1) gone? So now just the Histogram? Would be a step back in my eyes.

Ball325
02-11-2017, 19:34
QUICK QUESTION: is the yellow FFB graph (as is pCars1) gone? So now just the Histogram? Would be a step back in my eyes.

i've not seen it on console.

Juiced46
02-11-2017, 23:52
QUICK QUESTION: is the yellow FFB graph (as is pCars1) gone? So now just the Histogram? Would be a step back in my eyes. The pcars1 style graph is gone.


So I tried this and made sure I wasn't clipping with saturation at 0. I got a little mid corner feedback from the road surface and tires, but not steering force. Still a lot lighter than I like, I tried turning the TONE up to see if I could then feel the tires more and as that went up I started getting more and more clipping.

My target is to never see the red bar on the graph correct? I recorded a clip, but Xbox decided that I didn't so I'll try again tonight.

It still feel so drastically different than it did before the update. Before I'd have the wheel pushing against me mid corner as the car slid or suspension compressed. Now I just sort of get some jerks from it and that's it.

Correct, if the slider is going up in the red bar graph, you are clipping.

Ball325
03-11-2017, 13:20
The pcars1 style graph is gone.



Correct, if the slider is going up in the red bar graph, you are clipping.

So I played with this a ton last night. and on the 488 GT3 and NSX GT3 I could not make them stop clipping while maintaining a desirable wheel weight on Watkins Glen, and Red Bull Ring. I had ok feel in the 488. I tried default 100/50/50/50, I tried 85/50/50/30.

Check this clip, this setting felt pretty good, it was light but I could sort of feel the tires. I'd love to run my tone in the 85-90 range but if I push it that high I get clipping. I tried lowering the gain after this clip and nothing would resolve my clipping issues at watkins glen. I went down to 75/50/65/18 and it didnt seem to affect the clipping AT ALL. I got the same results as this clip.

http://xboxdvr.com/gamer/Ball325/video/38700043

Now that I'm just clipping all the time I can feel a little more, but whats bizarre is how drastically different this is to before the new firmware. I still don't have the feel I had before.

Also, I'm not aware of damper saturation causing clipping but it seems if I raise it, I start to clip. It all seems a little inconsistent honestly. I noticed I clip in an Online race and I don't in private testing on some tracks.

Ball325
03-11-2017, 19:24
Thrustmaster told me how and what to roll my firmware back to.

Wish me luck.

Ball325
03-11-2017, 22:04
Rolled back to v50, wheel weight is back.

I can push the FFB settings so much further before clipping and the middle parts of the graph (lower % feedback) seriously came to life after rolling back. They move fluidly and constantly. this version does have the light center that i had before, but i'll take that over nothing in mid corner.

So crazy how night and day this is.

Juiced46
04-11-2017, 00:58
Rolled back to v50, wheel weight is back.

I can push the FFB settings so much further before clipping and the middle parts of the graph (lower % feedback) seriously came to life after rolling back. They move fluidly and constantly. this version does have the light center that i had before, but i'll take that over nothing in mid corner.

So crazy how night and day this is.

I am glad that it feels better rolling back to the old firmware. It is odd for sure the new firmware did that. But atleast its better.

I think at this point its going to be a trade off for heavy steering vs tire/curb feel. It even states it in the description, the heavier you go, you lose on the other end in feeling. I think also, you are hitting the limit of the TX wheel for what you are expecting out of it. I think if you want more it may be time to step up to a Fanatec or something.

TheBadBoyRay
05-11-2017, 02:21
Is there a problem with the latest TX firmware?

I have a new TX coming this week so don't want to update if it's causing issues.

Juiced46
05-11-2017, 13:46
Is there a problem with the latest TX firmware?

I have a new TX coming this week so don't want to update if it's causing issues.

Hard to tell. A few users who updated mentioned no change and everything is fine after updating to v51. The OP in this thread did have issues after v51 update. If it were me, I would not update as it looks like the v51 firmware only change support for different wheel rims.

Ball325
06-11-2017, 00:34
Is there a problem with the latest TX firmware?

I have a new TX coming this week so don't want to update if it's causing issues.

I'd stick with whatever it ships with.


I am glad that it feels better rolling back to the old firmware. It is odd for sure the new firmware did that. But atleast its better.

I think at this point its going to be a trade off for heavy steering vs tire/curb feel. It even states it in the description, the heavier you go, you lose on the other end in feeling. I think also, you are hitting the limit of the TX wheel for what you are expecting out of it. I think if you want more it may be time to step up to a Fanatec or something.

Yeah, I think I've got a lot more miles on this one before I jump up. I have high expectations, having run so many different cars in real life, I want my wheel to feel like that (or close at least). I just need to manage my expectations a bit. Right now the wheel feels good. I wish i had a little more kerb feel but it's ok.


another note, I clip less on v50 than v51. I can actually push my settings a lot further on the same car and track with v50. Which results in a much heavier wheel and all.

2pfspiff
14-11-2017, 21:36
How did you roll your firmware back?

Ball325
16-11-2017, 20:44
How did you roll your firmware back?

Thrustmaster set me a file to replace the update file with. just drag and drop, over wrote the old one and updated and it worked flawlessly.

HammerToof
15-12-2017, 03:14
Anyone thinking of updating to v51...don't! It totally ruins the ffb. It seems to mute the wheel resistance when turning in. I tried it on pcars2, F1 and Forza and it was the same on all of them.
Luckily I had v50 to roll back to.

Robhd
15-12-2017, 07:58
Sorry to ask but is this a general firmware update for the TX, or one specfically just for the new silly priced 250gto rim?

Shoemaker
15-12-2017, 08:47
Does anybody know if firmware v50 has the forced cooling enabled ? Id like to roll back from v51 but these wheels need that fan all of the time or they get ffb fading quickly. Also with game patch 3.0, improvements were made to ffb, i can feels kerbs properly now.

HammerToof
15-12-2017, 10:31
Does anybody know if firmware v50 has the forced cooling enabled ? Id like to roll back from v51 but these wheels need that fan all of the time or they get ffb fading quickly. Also with game patch 3.0, improvements were made to ffb, i can feels kerbs properly now.

I think forced cooling was introduced in v49, so yes v50 has it too.