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View Full Version : Please, Help me, canīt drive the Radical SR8-RX



pferreirag60
22-01-2018, 13:00
Hi,

The Sr8 RX, in others sims and in PCars1 was one of my favorite cars to drive, just felted so planted, precise. But in Pcars2 I really dislike the car with some kind of passion. Why?
Well, every fast/middle turn, the back wants to be at the front, but the problem is that i really canīt receive any kind of feedback when that happens. It is the only car to me that behaves like that, maybe my style of drive have been inducing that behavior, but with every car i feel in anticipation what they will do, so i can react, but with the SR8 i cannot anticipate the oversteer, the understeer feedback is there, but i only loose the car by the backend, blindly :)

Any experience drivers in PCars2 SR8 that can help me, or offer some kind of feedback?


Appreciate any help, i really want to like the car.

z3r0cool77
22-01-2018, 13:32
I just finished the light sportscar career last week driving the radical and posted here a couple times about it. Its terrible. In all other cars I race around 100% ai and in that one I had to turn it down to 40%. I dont know if its a problem with the suspension, the tires or if the ai in that car are just waayyy too strong forcing you to over drive the car to keep up but it was really difficult. I moved on to class C prototypes after finishing that car and its mindblowing just how much easier and more fun it is to drive. You really have to find a good stable setup and its not an easy thing to do. I had to fanatically tweak the spring rates, ride height and dampers to manage its handling characteristics to keep it on track at ai speeds. Like the clio it will shift weight forwards during deceleration causing snap oversteer only its much less predictable than the clio and lacks the same visual cues because of the stiffer suspension and lower ride height. It also tends to bounce around a lot so learning all the little bumps on each track and knowing when you have to feather the throttle is very important otherwise you’ll spin violently. My advice is if you are in career then turn the ai down drastically and just suffer through it and never look back. I’ve completed clio, ginetta jr, ginetta gt5, gt4, formula rookie, light sportscar and group c proto careers and can handle them all pretty easy at 100% ai EXCEPT that thing. Its a nightmare.

Have fun :cool:

Zaskarspants
22-01-2018, 13:37
I find it a very hard drive too, but I haven't given it a go for ages as my first impressions were so poor. This was on default loose.

z3r0cool77
22-01-2018, 13:43
When pc2 released the ginetta gt5 tires were messed up and were fixed in a patch. This car feels very much the same as that prepatch ginetta. Hopefully the devs have looked into it for patch 4.

Zaskarspants
22-01-2018, 15:02
I just did some laps. Oulton park long. sunny. summer. 10 laps fuel. Default loose.

I compared the SRX with it's less powerful sibling the SR3 as the cars appear similar except for the engine.

I again find the SRX is a handful but it does feel like too much engine too little car as it is very eager to push the front tyres and spin the backs and the peaky engine makes this harder to judge for me. I think it needs very careful throttle control.

The SR3 with what I presume is using a similar chassis / suspension design felt much more balanced and would hold tighter lines.

I managed 1.33 with the srx but with a few spins and was constantly on / off the throttle to avoid the back going.
The much lower powered sr3 I got round in 1.38 with no fuss.

pferreirag60
22-01-2018, 16:07
Iīm very sorry, after all maybe I havenīt tried hard enough. Well, today, 5 minutes ago, I have done a 30 min race with qualification and also drove in snertetton300 during 30 min, and i have to say that everything i have said about the car, was wrong!

It seams exactly the opposite of what i have said: Predictable, responsive maybe a little bit to sensitive at large wheel inputs. So with ai at 100/80 i was able to win with a cert amount of easiness: Started 16 at 15 minutes into the race i was at the front

z3r0cool77
22-01-2018, 16:49
So every issue just magically vanished?

Zaskarspants
22-01-2018, 16:59
So every issue just magically vanished?

It is a very hard car to drive fast and perhaps the op just 'got it' ?

I don't agree with your earlier description of the car as "terrible" but it is demanding and challenging to drive at the limit.

z3r0cool77
22-01-2018, 17:07
It is a very hard car to drive fast and perhaps the op just 'got it' ?

I don't agree with your earlier description of the car as "terrible" but it is demanding and challenging to drive at the limit.

Unfortunately “at the limit” is where the ai drive it in career. The time gaps between difficulties are very low and so are their times.

Previous testing http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?59272-Superlights-career&p=1452289#post1452289

tpw
23-01-2018, 21:52
Radical AI are very very difficult to race against on many tracks, at above 80% difficulty they appear to use some magic setup that gives them an extra 20kmh relative to the player on the straight. No amount of fiddling downforce and type pressures will allow you to keep up with them. Try Bannochbrae for example.

Trudd
30-03-2018, 21:28
A while since this thread was created, but thought it fitting to post in it since it's about the Radical SR8. I suspect this affects more cars but I will focus on the Radical here.

Both me and my friend have Xbox One X consoles. I have a Thrustmaster TX wheel and my friend a Logitech G920 wheel.

I have tried since day one to find settings that work with every car in the game, at least decently. I have tried with all flavours, low, middle and high volume, and tone (and adjusted gain accordingly). For all major different variation in the settings I have managed to get some that works for quite a few cars. But always ended up with some cars that was almost undrivable.

Now I have found settings that work very well for a lot of cars (tested 20+). Until I tried the Radical at Fuji. It was awful. I'm perhaps not a very good driver, but certainly no very bad either. However at Fuji I could not keep the Radical SR8 on the track. In almost every corner I lost the back end of the car. Today I visited my friend and tried the same car on the same track (also same conditions) and found that I had basically no problems what so ever. I did just a few laps and managed a lap time of 01:39. Perhaps not fast but certainly way faster than I could manage on my own game at home.

To me this, including the fact that we have very similar settings, makes it pretty evident that there is a problem with the TX wheel on the Xbox version of PC2.

TX Raw G80 V20 T50 F20
G920 Informative G70 V30 T50 F20

hkraft300
30-03-2018, 23:55
It’s a hard car to drive.
It will spin on power.
It’s very rear heavy and you need to drive it like an old Porsche.
Did you run the car in same conditions on both systems? Did you make any setup changes?
You have left many questions unanswered, many variables unaccounted for, but apparently the tmx is broken with this game :rolleyes:

Blindly changing ffb settings, by the way, doesn’t help either. I use the same settings for every car. Some cars feel better than others.

Trudd
31-03-2018, 06:34
First, thanks for the answer. :)

As mentioned it was the same same car, track and conditions (quick race). Also it's not the TMX wheel but rather its big brother TX (RS 300 eq.).

I don't change my settings blindly. I would even consider myself quite methodical. When I mean I tried all different settings I mean I've tried each different settings with a lot of cars and tracks for quite a few laps with each combo. I don't adjust ffb per car if I can avoid, since just as you I try to run most cars with the same settings. I always run with default settings (loose) by the way. So I would say not that many questions unanswered?

However the piece de resistance is the fact that I with very similar settings on my friend's Xbox One X console with the G920 wheel have no problem driving the car. And I'm fairly confident that this would not change even if I tried quite different ffb settings on his wheel, ie I don't think it's the settings that is the problem here but rather the wheel/game combo. And I don't think you can blame me using the default settings either since I run this on my friend's console as well.

However based on other threads spread around the forum I would say I think this is a specific Xbox issue and not a PC (or Playstation?) thing. Anyway if you have any suggestions on what to try to rule further things out I'm all ears and will do my best to test them out.

hkraft300
31-03-2018, 07:47
The car is very powerful too.
Ffb settings won't save it.

So on ps4 you drive it fine but x1x it's difficult?

Trudd
31-03-2018, 11:13
No, no PS4 involved. I have a Xbox One X with a Thrustmaster TX wheel. At least on Fuji the power off the car isn't an issue since I spin very easily when entering for example the second corner, not when trying to power out of it (edit: Well perhaps the 3rd corner that's a sweeping corner I tend to spin out when on power).

I think we can leave out the ffb settings. As you say yourself it won't save the car (well to be honest a little bit it does, at least on the Xbox). I mentioned ffb only to show the similar settings on the wheels and that I had extensive experience with different settings.

I then tried the same thing on my friends Xbox One X (ie the same type of console) with his Logitech G920, and I have no problems running a lap around the circuit using that wheel.

I have basically not much difficulty with the power of the car on either wheel. Sure the start can be a handful, on both, but nothing major. Perhaps since I spent a lot of time driving the Formula X around Laguna Seca in TT (pretty decent imho) I'm used to a powerful car? Although also with more downforce.

Trudd
31-03-2018, 21:54
Well to give myself sort of an answer here. I still believe there is something amiss with the Thrustmaster TX and PC2 combo on the Xbox console that affects the handling of certain cars in the game.

For now however I simply settled to changing my ffb setting to RAW G40 V45 T45 F45 when driving the Radical. At least those settings allow me to drive it around the Fuji track, if barely.

Anyway I will probably leave it at that, and mainly race all the cars that I actually can handle well with the ffb I like. And I hope that when I upgrade my PC later this year it will not have the same problems with the Radical so I can enjoy it to its fullest there instead.

Justin Case
07-04-2018, 15:13
I am driving third race now, oulton i think?, and i've retired to pits two earlier races just bcause the car is impossible to drive, especially in race. When i tweak the car in freemode, I can handle it but in race the car become almost impossible to drive. Exactly the way you explained. I lost my nerve with it and did put the whole game on self for few weeks. Will try someday, will retire to pits again if its still feels like sh@##.

Demon340
10-04-2018, 08:27
I am driving third race now, oulton i think?, and i've retired to pits two earlier races just bcause the car is impossible to drive, especially in race. When i tweak the car in freemode, I can handle it but in race the car become almost impossible to drive. Exactly the way you explained. I lost my nerve with it and did put the whole game on self for few weeks. Will try someday, will retire to pits again if its still feels like sh@##.

Go down to the Radical SR8-RX thread requesting help at Donington (below this one on this same page) and tune the car per suggestions at bottom of page 1. It helped me gain control immensely!

Sankyo
14-12-2018, 09:40
Reviving this thread, as I returned to this car that used to be one of my favourites in pC1. Difficult car to drive on default, even the stable set-up. Started tinkering with the set-up, and I've been able to make good progress on it.

So the problem with the car is that the back end wants to come around on power, when trail braking or when steering beyond a certain angle with the steering wheel. Furthermore, I'm driving on Imola and whenever the car clips and inside slanted kerb there's a huge pull and the back end comes around as well.

First thing I did is to decrease engine braking, set it to 8 and that improved lift-off oversteer alread.

The second thing I'm tinkering with now is the differential, because the default behaviour seems to me related to this first. I'm not understanding all the technical bits yet, however by just reading the help texts for the LSD (by default the active diff) I concluded that the default LSD settings are basically and open diff (power and coast angles are 90 degrees), so whenever there's an imbalance in rear wheel slip the full engine power goes to the non-slipping wheel resulting in instant oversteer.
So I started with lowering the LSD angles from 90 degrees in steps of 10 to see what it does. Ended yesterday with 70 degrees on both power and coast, and that already improved the braking and power oversteering. The car is still sensitive to large turn-in and kerbs, but that may be resolved by even larger diff locking settings (smaller LSD angles). At least it's showing me that the diff settings are a major factor in the car's rear end instability.

I do notice already that the lower LSD angles are making the car more understeery, so the second phase after taming the rear end will probably be to improve turn-in with the roll bars and suspension. For now, however, I'm continuing with tweaking the diff.

If anyone has ideas for or experience with taming this car, post here!

[EDIT] I did read the other thread on this car and how to tune it for Donington, but that only provides complete set-ups and not really the steps getting to them (or the reasoning behind them). So I'll keep posting in this thread to hopefully arrive at a good, stable and fast set-up with some learning documented in the process :)

hkraft300
14-12-2018, 10:19
What if you stiffen the rear end to reduce the weight transitions? Technically you might reducing the rear grip a little but I think it might be beneficial. Might give it a crack tonight and post back.

Sankyo
14-12-2018, 13:55
What if you stiffen the rear end to reduce the weight transitions? Technically you might reducing the rear grip a little but I think it might be beneficial. Might give it a crack tonight and post back.
I'm still confused what process makes the rear end step out when driving over Imola kerbs and when turning the wheel beyond a certain steering angle. The former could be something related to the Imola kerbs being off, as even with a spool diff the rear end flings out just the same when only slight touching an inner kerb at Imola. Or something else is fishy with this car's behaviour, set-up or I don't understand what a spool diff can or cannot do...

cpcdem
14-12-2018, 13:56
The second thing I'm tinkering with now is the differential, because the default behaviour seems to me related to this first. I'm not understanding all the technical bits yet, however by just reading the help texts for the LSD (by default the active diff) I concluded that the default LSD settings are basically and open diff (power and coast angles are 90 degrees), so whenever there's an imbalance in rear wheel slip the full engine power goes to the non-slipping wheel resulting in instant oversteer.
So I started with lowering the LSD angles from 90 degrees in steps of 10 to see what it does. Ended yesterday with 70 degrees on both power and coast, and that already improved the braking and power oversteering. The car is still sensitive to large turn-in and kerbs, but that may be resolved by even larger diff locking settings (smaller LSD angles). At least it's showing me that the diff settings are a major factor in the car's rear end instability.


In this car, both the Geared and Clutch LSD options are enabled (On) by default, the Clutch LSD is I think used only for the Preload, this is why you have otherwise 90 degree angles for it. So I suggest doing the changes in the Geared LSD option instead, further drop the Power Ratio from the already pretty low 1.8:1. Nothing stopping you of course from disabling the Geared LSD and adjusting the Clutch LSD instead if you prefer so, but I assume the real car has a geared LSD so it's more realistic doing it this way.

hkraft300
14-12-2018, 14:40
Imola kerbs make all cars slide. They're steep. Makes the inside wheels kick up and the outside rear wheel is the only wheel pushing, so you get rotation.
Also my best laps at imola come from hitting those curbs (in GT and prototypes), anticipating and catching the slide.

Im about to do some laps.

wesker6664
14-12-2018, 14:56
Imola kerbs make all cars slide.

This is true to some degree, because in GT3 class for example there are HUGE differences in how cars handle those curbs, although those cars are similarly built and have the same tires. In some cars the curbs are deadly whereas others like the RS01 can handle them much better, to me it looks like the suspensions and chassis settings play a big role in this.

hkraft300
14-12-2018, 15:35
So started with the default loose and I've gone a different direction.
First changes I made before driving at Imola (def date I think, 45°c track temp) were:
Steering ratio 13.6 - personal preference. Changed the caster to 6.1 that's also a preference thing. I like a slightly heavier steering feel.
I dropped the ride height to 50mm front (minimum) and 80 rear. Fuel to 20L.
After 3 laps I increased brake ducts to 85% - temps causing the tire pressures get too high. I also reduced the pressure to 90% as the brakes were locking too easily.
Rear wing to 8 - could go higher I reckon. I found the oversteer Sankyo described above but I mostly got it as high speed oversteer.
Increased rear camber to -3° I feel the rear tire temps (inside/middle/outside) were too close.

Dropped rear height to 70 to reduce the rake.
After 5 more laps I increased the rear sway to 61. I want to say this reduces rear roll and increased the effectiveness of the rear camber but I don't know. Felt OK but the kerbs still mostly try to kill you.

My next step I guess would be increase power gear diff to 2.3 because I did notice a lot of inside wheel spin. Then I'd tackle the damping using the pc2 tuner app.

Ps: Reduced the rear toe to 0 - in a manner to reduce rear tire temp, which helped and brought the rear tires below 90°c. Gear ratios 2.833 2.071 1.611 1.444 1.3 1.136



.... to me it looks like the suspensions and chassis settings play a big role in this.

I'll second that. Suspension + diff adjustments can make it better, but hit those kerbs wrong they'll still throw you at the wall.

rich1e I
15-12-2018, 12:03
I think on tracks like Imola it helps a lot increasing ride height as you have to use a lot of kerb.

Sankyo
17-12-2018, 09:13
I think on tracks like Imola it helps a lot increasing ride height as you have to use a lot of kerb.
Interesting suggestion, I'll try that. I don't hear the bottom scraping when going over kerbs, but I'll try it anyway to see if it makes a difference.

hkraft300
17-12-2018, 09:39
I don't think it was bottoming out either hence the low ride height.
That said, getting the correct transition speed from slow bump to fast bump should come in handy in absorbing the kerb impact. Once you get that right (pc2 tuner has damper and suspension travel over a lap that can be recorded!), you might find the spring actually bottoming out and therefore in need of raising the ride height.