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banner77amc
12-03-2018, 17:12
I just upgraded to a new G29 and was wondering what feedback options you use when racing? (of course if you have a G29)

I spent all weekend with it and I feel its not quite where I want it (authentic feel).

Sentry87
12-03-2018, 22:26
Informative
Gain 97
Volume 37
Tone 35
FX 43

Dead zone 0 , sensitivity 50

I took these from someone, might try and find a raw settings eventually but these work for me. I like them because I can feel the curbs, feel the wheel on long straights, ffb is there but not too over powering. Keep in mind I mostly drive gt3, if I were to switch to a different car there might be adjustments

John Hargreaves
12-03-2018, 22:35
I usually start with gain at 100 and the rest at 50 with informative. I have volume and tone on dials on my button box, so I can adjust them just like you would the car radio, and I do find that I adjust them depending on the car. I also quite like FX dialled up, so it often creeps up to 60-70, again depends on the car. Being able to make those adjustments in real time is great, as you can just twiddle your knobs until it feels nice. As Ken Dodd might say.

Boneboys
13-03-2018, 07:57
iirc...

100
70
60
50

Immersive (?)

I used Jack Spade settings earlier on but the preset FFB since .3 are really quite good.

Zaskarspants
13-03-2018, 12:10
My suggestions.

Leave sliders on defaults, flip through flavours to see if one attracts you, then tweak sliders.

Leave gain at 100, keep fx low <20 as I found on a low torque wheel high fx clouds detail and stiffens the wheel a bit on straights in a way I don't appreciate. Low tone will increase fx feel, front tyre forces, slip, vibration, high tone will feel more exciting and help you feel the back end.

Lower tone is weaker so I compensate by increasing volume as required but I use one setting for all cars.

Flavours.

Immersive - High drama strong feedback, subtle forces can be swamped.
Informative - Moderate force, subtle forces are amplified, can feel odd if fx is high, lots of detail.
Raw - Lowest forces and can feel weak on low torque wheel, most detailed and arguably most realistic.

hkraft300
13-03-2018, 12:50
Mine below.
Remember also sensitivity 50, damping 0.
Calibrate exactly as per on screen instructions.
Steering ratio I tend to run 12:1. Sharp-ish.

You want to try a few different class of cars at your favourite track. Settings you might feel are great in a 488 may be OTT in a Group C.

banner77amc
13-03-2018, 13:40
Thank you all I will play around with these. This weekend I will be working to build a nice stable adjustable frame.

hkraft300
13-03-2018, 13:53
Thank you all I will play around with these. This weekend I will be working to build a nice stable adjustable frame.

The wheel isn’t so strong but you definitely want strength in the pedal mount. The brakes are stiff and you’ll definitely give it a proper stomp in a race.
Don’t worry, the brake pedal and g29 pedal box itself is plenty strong for it.

banner77amc
13-03-2018, 14:11
The wheel isn’t so strong but you definitely want strength in the pedal mount. The brakes are stiff and you’ll definitely give it a proper stomp in a race.
Don’t worry, the brake pedal and g29 pedal box itself is plenty strong for it.

So far the TV tray that I am using to hold the wheel is the bad thing. Currently holding it with my knees to keep it from turning with the wheel haha.

hkraft300
13-03-2018, 14:19
So far the TV tray that I am using to hold the wheel is the bad thing. Currently holding it with my knees to keep it from turning with the wheel haha.

Oh. Hah. I know the feel.
I started on a little ikea garden desk on slippery wood floor.

banner77amc
13-03-2018, 15:56
Oh. Hah. I know the feel.
I started on a little ikea garden desk on slippery wood floor.

If only they had a few horrid cars that have dashboard connectivity issues it would feel perfect.

davidt33
13-03-2018, 17:09
Informative
Gain 97
Volume 37
Tone 35
FX 43

Dead zone 0 , sensitivity 50

I took these from someone, might try and find a raw settings eventually but these work for me. I like them because I can feel the curbs, feel the wheel on long straights, ffb is there but not too over powering. Keep in mind I mostly drive gt3, if I were to switch to a different car there might be adjustments

.....Ditto.

Chomps_McGee
14-03-2018, 13:23
Raw
90
50
85
60

Took me forever to get the FFB right in this game, even quit playing altogether for several months because I just couldn't stand the way the game felt. Redownloaded it after the latest update and went back to messing around with the FFB and this set up really works well for me. Gives me plenty of information as to what the car and all of it's parts are doing and has a really nice weight in the corners. As far as I can tell I'm not really experiencing any clipping with it either, at least not enough to matter.

banner77amc
14-03-2018, 13:58
Raw
90
50
85
60

Took me forever to get the FFB right in this game, even quit playing altogether for several months because I just couldn't stand the way the game felt. Redownloaded it after the latest update and went back to messing around with the FFB and this set up really works well for me. Gives me plenty of information as to what the car and all of it's parts are doing and has a really nice weight in the corners. As far as I can tell I'm not really experiencing any clipping with it either, at least not enough to matter.

I will try this too once the more stable surface is in place. I tried raw once and it nearly flipped the table over haha.

hkraft300
14-03-2018, 14:48
I will try this too once the more stable surface is in place. I tried raw once and it nearly flipped the table over haha.

Remember Raw is basically no frills rack-only ffb. But tone and fx can alter it a lot. High Tone will give you nice weight but you lose the caster effect and much of the grip detail from the front wheels. Maybe because the 29 is so weak.
Algarve is a good track to compare high vs low tone.
Also to set your FX high or low, you need to drive the XJR9 at a rough track.

John Hargreaves
14-03-2018, 16:19
I don't think raw was designed with the G29 in mind, but it's more about tuning it until you are happy.

poirqc
14-03-2018, 19:40
Remember Raw is basically no frills rack-only ffb. But tone and fx can alter it a lot. High Tone will give you nice weight but you lose the caster effect and much of the grip detail from the front wheels. Maybe because the 29 is so weak.
Algarve is a good track to compare high vs low tone.
Also to set your FX high or low, you need to drive the XJR9 at a rough track.


I don't think raw was designed with the G29 in mind, but it's more about tuning it until you are happy.

If i'm not mistaken, Informative is Raw with compression and auto deadzone removal mechanism. At the same time, happyness is the end goal!

hkraft300
14-03-2018, 23:18
If i'm not mistaken, Informative is Raw with compression and auto deadzone removal mechanism...

And also some SoP thrown in the mix iirc.

Which I can do away with going low tone on raw.

You’re right raw might’ve been for High power wheels but dialed down for simplicity it works with the g29 well.

Zaskarspants
15-03-2018, 12:58
I think running raw on a low torque wheel works well but only at low tone and fx.

High fx and tone are likely to produce clipping whereas a high torque wheel will communicate those larger forces without swamping the finer deatils of slip and slide from the front wheels.

CSL-Drive
15-03-2018, 20:01
G29
Immersive, as I feel it to be biased to front wheel forces.
Gain: 100
Weight/volume: 30+ depending on my car, but I don't let it clip to max torque limit of my wheel, ever.
Tone: 0 feels irrelevant to me and dampens volume.
Fx: 0 for G29 because it often intervenes with the front wheel forces I feel on this wheel, although on more powerful ffb wheels i find it ok to set to anything prefered.

CSL-Drive
15-03-2018, 20:09
Remember Raw is basically no frills rack-only ffb. But tone and fx can alter it a lot. High Tone will give you nice weight but you lose the caster effect and much of the grip detail from the front wheels. Maybe because the 29 is so weak.
Algarve is a good track to compare high vs low tone.
Also to set your FX high or low, you need to drive the XJR9 at a rough track.
no tone adds seat forces, which blocks the actual simulation of the weight of the front wheels.

hkraft300
15-03-2018, 21:35
G29
Immersive, as I feel it to be biased to front wheel forces.
Gain: 100
Weight/volume: 30+ depending on my car, but I don't let it clip to max torque limit of my wheel, ever.
Tone: 0 feels irrelevant to me and dampens volume.
Fx: 0 for G29 because it often intervenes with the front wheel forces I feel on this wheel, although on more powerful ffb wheels i find it ok to set to anything prefered.


no tone adds seat forces, which blocks the actual simulation of the weight of the front wheels.

Lol
Where did you get that information?

napocapo69
16-03-2018, 10:04
I just upgraded to a new G29 and was wondering what feedback options you use when racing? (of course if you have a G29)

I spent all weekend with it and I feel its not quite where I want it (authentic feel).

My Settings:
FFB
Jack Spade CUSTOM SETTINGS "J.Spade Tire hi comp SopDiff"
Gain 45
Volume 60
Tone 50
FX 10

PEDALS
BRAKES: I suggest you to rise significantly the sensitivity of the brakes pedal (I've set to 100%) and to decrease the oil pressure of the brakes in the car setup (around 70%). Dead zone around 5%
THROTTLE: Sensitivity at 50%. Dead zone around 5%

CSL-Drive
16-03-2018, 11:49
Lol
Where did you get that information?
No idea if it's true, but from what I feel, i cant make sense out of tone, as it feels like seat forces or g forces. I would love to feel that in my chair, but I prefer to just feel the front wheels on my steering wheel.

hkraft300
16-03-2018, 12:54
No idea if it's true, but from what I feel, i cant make sense out of tone, as it feels like seat forces or g forces. I would love to feel that in my chair, but I prefer to just feel the front wheels on my steering wheel.

You might want to move away from immersive, then. Reading the description in-game and the various ffb threads you might inform yourself better.
Feelings can be misleading.

CSL-Drive
16-03-2018, 15:04
You might want to move away from immersive, then. Reading the description in-game and the various ffb threads you might inform yourself better.
Feelings can be misleading.
Yeah, I have no idea honestly. Currently I'm using T-GT and the wheel isn't supported, so most cars feel completely wrong on standard settings. I just tested GTE ferrari and here I have to set volume to 100 and tone to 50, it seems to add weight, but I don't know where that weight is coming from. And 100 volume and 100 tone, seems to be too much weight. But 50 50 again is nothing. No ffb at all. Maybe if I played with my finger, altho that does sound relaxing, I should try it some time.

iRacing simulates this weight too, but what is that, some kind of spring in the wheel? A damper? I have no clue. And I cannot increase the gain to 200% to make it work on 50 50 50. So I have no idea what to do. I don't see how tireslip adds weight. As it doesn't explain what they mean with tireslip. My tires are not slipping and there is weight. So maybe they should say tiregrip instead of tireslip. I have no idea.

The feeling of having no idea, is actually pretty much an accurate representation of my knowledge level on this subject. The lack of knowledge is the real misleading factor in my opinion. But my own opinion cannot even be worth anything to me as I woulden't even know it if I did know what I think I don't know, because I simply don't know. I can only guess things, and get a different result everytime. Having to manually compare project cars 2 with other sims, to make my ffb feel similar, in whatever way I can, is not ideal. I am able to play on standard settings with my T-GT wheel on the playstation 4 tho, so maybe it's time to test the feeling there, and try to mimmick it with the pc version, which sadly doesn't support T-GT. Unfortunately. Unless, I am wrong about this too, and I don't know anything. Who knows. I woulden't even know if I did know it, cause I don't know.
A never ending journey of new discoveries that I may or may not be able to relate to eachother. Same for trying to figure out the graphical settings and car tuning in garage.

Btw, my g29 vanished from the earth during a repair shipment.

hkraft300
16-03-2018, 17:04
Journey of discovery. I’m definitely on that train and welcome all aboard.

So you’re telling me 100 vol 100 tone doesn’t spike the red ffb bar on your telemetry screen? That’s really odd.
What’s also odd is a wheel being supported on PS4 but not pc.

My experience is all on PS4.

Keena
16-03-2018, 19:40
G920 PC, difficulty 110% Aggression 100%

- low tone of about 20-25 for me really brings out the traction (or lack of) but makes the car feel very twitchy. In this scenario its lots of very small corrections on a car that's already dialled in. If the car is handling poorly I just dial up the tone to about 70 and that removes enough of the ffb that its only the coarse corrections that get transmitted to the wheel. Its a startling conclusion but ffb is just as important to your setup as the actual car setup is. I find myself changing ffb settings from one session to another, one car to another, even different weather.

Its just about what works for you, but it does help knowing what you are trying to achieve before you set out to achieve it.

Its also unhelpful that the description of tone in the settings menu is somewhat back to front..

banner77amc
19-03-2018, 14:58
So far so good with trying out the settings you all posted. So far I feel most comfortable with some of the first "informative" settings.

And this weekend I started making a solid collapsible rig... So far so good with the base.252049

hkraft300
19-03-2018, 15:46
Dig it

My pedals are inclined about the same angle.

You should be able to give that good stomp.

banner77amc
21-06-2018, 18:48
I just remembered to post a pic of my setup now. Its all very sorted out. Shifter arm parallel to the wheel, wheel position deep (flips out of the way on hinges). If it needs to be put away the whole thing comes apart with pins and a few small clips. Also the light is motion detected when I walk into the room for added race ambiance. (you can see the PC Logo).

256560

davidt33
21-06-2018, 21:17
I just remembered to post a pic of my setup now. Its all very sorted out. Shifter arm parallel to the wheel, wheel position deep (flips out of the way on hinges). If it needs to be put away the whole thing comes apart with pins and a few small clips. Also the light is motion detected when I walk into the room for added race ambiance. (you can see the PC Logo).

256560
Very nice man.

banner77amc
22-06-2018, 12:06
Very nice man.

Thank you... this is what you can do with some spare wood and random fasteners.

hkraft300
23-06-2018, 00:37
http://i.imgur.com/TxLBlH1.jpg

TekNeil
23-06-2018, 15:48
Really struggling against clipping with my G29...

When I first started with PC2 I just did a little adjuting of the various sliders to get it to feel good to me. Thought all was well.

Later realised that the red clipping bar is continuously full/max! The issue is that I like the wheel to be heavy.

So I've been running like:
100
80
60
50

But after really turning down the settings to something like:
100
50
20
40

I felt a LOT! of detail I didn't realise was there! I could actually feel a lot more grip and weight transfer, like the car pulling me around corners, losing grip, regaining it etc. The problem was that it felt VERY twitchy and VERY weak.

Now I'm trying to find a happy medium, but I just keep ending up with clipping, and a feeling of vague FFB, or somewhere in the middle. So, if I just wack up the settings again, and they feel great, does it really matter that I'm constantly max on clipping?

hkraft300
23-06-2018, 16:39
Now I'm trying to find a happy medium, but I just keep ending up with clipping, and a feeling of vague FFB, or somewhere in the middle. So, if I just wack up the settings again, and they feel great, does it really matter that I'm constantly max on clipping?

Do it how you like. If you’re ok with the lost detail and prefer the wheel weight, go heavy.
Personally I’d go light.the wheel weights up depending on what you’re driving anyway.

TekNeil
23-06-2018, 17:08
Would this be much more of a 'none' issue if I went with a direct drive wheel? And yeah, I do like how the wheel can go from very light to very heavy when it needs to, having that greater range of FFB I mean...

It's just the 'light' is there too often and too much for me if I ease off the settings.

I'll keep playing with it, currently in a TC league using the BMW 320 and it's not my fave car TBH.

hkraft300
23-06-2018, 17:50
Would this be much more of a 'none' issue if I went with a direct drive wheel? And yeah, I do like how the wheel can go from very light to very heavy when it needs to, having that greater range of FFB I mean...

It's just the 'light' is there too often and too much for me if I ease off the settings.

I'll keep playing with it, currently in a TC league using the BMW 320 and it's not my fave car TBH.

Ye it’s not great on the ffb. I hate the peaky gutless motor.
Try increasing caster angle where possible for some added feel.

DD or Fanatec wheels are on another level from g29.

TekNeil
23-06-2018, 18:00
Me too mate, very narrow power band makes it hard to make purposeful throttle control. And yep, tend to up the caster to get that more obvious center feel. May give those settings in your sig a go shortly.

I find I keep having to re-read the descriptions for the sliders, the very top and second one confuse me a little.

davidt33
23-06-2018, 18:13
Really struggling against clipping with my G29...

When I first started with PC2 I just did a little adjuting of the various sliders to get it to feel good to me. Thought all was well.

Later realised that the red clipping bar is continuously full/max! The issue is that I like the wheel to be heavy.

So I've been running like:
100
80
60
50

But after really turning down the settings to something like:
100
50
20
40

I felt a LOT! of detail I didn't realise was there! I could actually feel a lot more grip and weight transfer, like the car pulling me around corners, losing grip, regaining it etc. The problem was that it felt VERY twitchy and VERY weak.

Now I'm trying to find a happy medium, but I just keep ending up with clipping, and a feeling of vague FFB, or somewhere in the middle. So, if I just wack up the settings again, and they feel great, does it really matter that I'm constantly max on clipping?
Was just about to say I'd try the second bit of settings you had there....until I read "......The problem was that it felt VERY twitchy and VERY weak."

Do give us an update though what you eventually settle with.

poirqc
24-06-2018, 00:57
Here's my humble opinion on the subject. I posted this in the generic FFB thread. Here's how I deal with the big deadzone and low torque of the G2X(I have a G27 but I'm pretty sure it apply to the G29):

The following is hkraft300 fault really. He talked about those so much in pCars 1 that I finally put more time to understand them. He was right.

I'll share how I do it. There's 3 things that affect the FFB in a somewhat standard way*:

Caster
Steering Ratio
Camber


I view them that way:

RAG/RAB
Deadzone removal range
Volume(Tire Force)


Lower caster if you're clipping under load in a curve.
Lower steering ratio if you have an FFB deadzone near TDC.
Move camber a bit up or down depending on how much wheel weight you want.

*Of course, other garage settings affect the FFB. But personally, I think those 3 have the most direct effect on the FFB, without disturbing the performance of your setup too much. The only one you might not be able to move as much as you want is Camber. Depending on the track, it may be difficult to move them much. At the same time, you don't need to change it much to get the desired FFB effect.

With the general FFB settings in my signature, I often lower Caster and steering angle. That way, the FFB gets detailed the most situation. At the same time, the FFB deadzone is minimal and give ok turn ins response. When setup correctly, wheel weight isn't too bad also.

HTH

hkraft300
24-06-2018, 01:04
I'll share how I do it. There's 3 things that affect the FFB in a somewhat standard way*:

Caster
Steering Ratio
Camber


I view them that way:

RAG/RAB
Deadzone removal range
Volume(Tire Force)


Lower caster if you're clipping under load in a curve.
Lower steering ratio if you have an FFB deadzone near TDC.
Move camber a bit up or down depending on how much wheel weight you want.

HTH

That’s brilliant. I hadn’t thought of it this way.
I just knew caster angle increases steering effort/resistance (because of the way the wheel interacts with caster. Think bicycle front wheel).

Shogun613
24-06-2018, 01:51
With the general FFB settings in my signature, I often lower Caster and steering angle. That way, the FFB gets detailed the most situation. At the same time, the FFB deadzone is minimal and give ok turn ins response. When setup correctly, wheel weight isn't too bad also.

HTH

Just curious, what values do you use for your preferred steering ratio? I myself like it around 10 - 10.5 in all cars. I don't really have any deadzone issues around TDC, but I would a little more detail in tire slip.

poirqc
24-06-2018, 03:12
That’s brilliant. I hadn’t thought of it this way.
I just knew caster angle increases steering effort/resistance (because of the way the wheel interacts with caster. Think bicycle front wheel).

Real mechanics might laugh at what I'll say. I wish I'd understand more of it. It's just my understanding at this point in time.

Like mentioned in pCars 1 official FFB guide, FFB settings and garage settings blends at some point. As long as valid values range are used, for a given car, it make sense to change garage values to change the FFB. Take a real car. Caster, Camber and steering ratio setups don't make a care faster or slower by themselves. They're setup to make the car work with the driver instead of him fighting the car. I guess it's the case for other part of it.

If we bring this back to FFB, I view them the same way. You tune them in a way where the car's direction system informs you and make you work in tandem with the car.


Run a setup
If FFB doesn't communicate like good cars, revisit Caster, Camber and SR
Tune the rest to taste
Adjust those 3 values if FFB clips a bit too often.



Just curious, what values do you use for your preferred steering ratio? I myself like it around 10 - 10.5 in all cars. I don't really have any deadzone issues around TDC, but I would a little more detail in tire slip.

From experience, I agree with you that SR around 10 - 10,5, you won't have FFB deadzone. SR around those values is pretty tight in my view.

I mostly drive old cars and SR is often around 14.

Id say, regardless of the car you drive, 1-2 click above or below default car value is enough most of the time. I don't like super quick steering. That's why I tried to lower it as little as possible when I feel the FFB doesn't ramp up fast enough.

Like I said above, SR is tied to the rest of the setup. YMMV.

As for Tire Slip, the lowers SR is, the quicker the steering will go light when slipping. With that said, you might not feel if you're clipping. The lower SR is, the lower Volume/Tone/Caster needs to be.

Shogun613
24-06-2018, 04:24
Thanks, poirqc... I'll do some testing and fiddling when I get home from work. Cheers!

hkraft300
24-06-2018, 10:02
As for Tire Slip, the lowers SR is, the quicker the steering will go light when slipping. With that said, you might not feel if you're clipping. The lower SR is, the lower Volume/Tone/Caster needs to be.

I'm at 12:1 for SR with my settings. Sometimes the ffb is a bit vague in trail-brake-oversteer on corner entry.

drathuu
24-06-2018, 10:40
Using Jack Spades Custom Compressor with G29
Ensure the Logitech software has CENTREING spring off (unticked). And steering ratio at 900.

Then have set in game -
Gain 100
50
50
50
and 0.4

----
######################################################
# NAME: Custom (Jack Spade standard mid compressor)

# Spindle Scales -------------------------------------
(Fx_scale 1.0)
(Fy_scale (* tone 2.0))
(Fz_scale 1.0)
(Mz_scale (* (+ (* tone -1.0) 1.0) 2.0))


# Low Speed Filter Out -------------------------------
(one_minus_floor (- 1.0 device_standstill_floor))
(low_speec_scale ((+ device_standstill_floor (* one_minus_floor (crossover vel_mag 0.0 1.0)))))
(Fx_scale (* Fx_scale low_speec_scale))
(Mz_scale (* Mz_scale low_speec_scale))

# Spindle Arm ----------------------------------------
(arm_angle 15.0)
(left_scale (linkage 1.0 -1.0))
(right_scale (linkage 1.0 1.0))

# Anti Jolt ------------------------------------------
#(left_scale (* left_scale (antijolt FL_load 0.09 0.22 0.1)))
#(right_scale (* right_scale (antijolt FR_load 0.09 0.22 0.1)))

# Rack -----------------------------------------------
(Fx (+ (* left_scale FL_Fx) (* right_scale FR_Fx)))
(Fx (smooth Fx 0.05))
(Fy (+ (* left_scale FL_Fy) (* right_scale FR_Fy)))
(Fz (+ (* left_scale FL_Fz) (* right_scale FR_Fz)))
(Mz (+ (* left_scale FL_Mz) (* right_scale FR_Mz)))
(output (+ (* Fx_scale Fx) (* Fy_scale Fy) (* Fz_scale Fz) (* Mz_scale Mz) ) )

#(output (compressor output threshold ratio attack release))
(output (compressor output (* 0.65) (* 2.0) (* 0.04) (* 0.02)))

(output (* 2.5 volume output))

# Autoscale ------------------------------------------
(scale_init_time 10.0)
(scale_window_init 1.0)
(scale_window_nominal 10.0)
(scale_soft_clear_t 0.5)
(scale_min 0.1)
(scale_max 4.0)
(scale_cap 1.5)
(scale_blend_t 2.0)
(scale_min_raise 0.2)
(scale_min_slide 0.1)
# scaler is not hooked to output in RAW
(signal_scale output
0.1 0.2 1.0 2.0 0.2
0.1
0.0 0.0)

# Safety ---------------------------------------------
(output (* output (- 1.0 (* device_safety FL_detached))))
(output (* output (- 1.0 (* device_safety FR_detached))))

(output (* output device_gain))

#(output (soft_clip output 1.0 0.0 device_headroom))

# Lock Stops -----------------------------------------
(stops (bumpstop output 0.1 1.0 0.1 0.0))
(output (+ output (* stops device_lock_stop)))

# Jerk Based Road Feel -------------------------------
(FL_road (* FL_load 1.0))
(FL_road (jerk FL_road))
(FL_road (* FL_road (abs FL_angvel)))

(FR_road (* FR_load -1.0))
(FR_road (jerk FR_road))
(FR_road (* FR_road (abs FR_angvel)))

(FL_brk (* FL_long 1.0))
(FL_brk (jerk FL_brk))
(FL_brk (* FL_brk (abs FL_angvel)))

(FR_brk (* FR_long -1.0))
(FR_brk (jerk FR_brk))
(FR_brk (* FR_brk (abs FR_angvel)))

(FL_crnr (* FL_lat 1.0))
(FL_crnr (jerk FL_crnr))
(FL_crnr (* FL_crnr (abs FL_angvel)))

(FR_crnr (* FR_lat -1.0))
(FR_crnr (jerk FR_crnr))
(FR_crnr (* FR_crnr (abs FR_angvel)))

# Bump -----------------------------------------------
(FL_bump_period (+ (* 0.4 FL_bump_kerb) (* 0.1 FL_bump_track)))
(FL_bump_amplitude (+ (* 0.2 FL_bump_kerb) (* 0.06 FL_bump_track)))
(FL_bump_sharpness 0.99)
(inv_period (/ 1.0 (+ FL_bump_period 0.001)))
(dphase (* FL_vel_x dt inv_period))
(FL_bump (oscillator dphase))
(FL_bump (scoop FL_bump FL_bump_sharpness 0.99))
(FL_bump (* FL_bump FL_load FL_bump_amplitude FL_angvel))
#(FL_bump (split FL_bump 0.0 1.0 0.0 0.4 0.02))

(FR_bump_period (+ (* 0.4 FR_bump_kerb) (* 0.1 FR_bump_track)))
(FR_bump_amplitude (+ (* 0.2 FR_bump_kerb) (* 0.06 FR_bump_track)))
(FR_bump_sharpness 0.99)
(inv_period (/ 1.0 (+ FR_bump_period 0.001)))
(dphase (* FR_vel_x dt inv_period))
(FR_bump (oscillator dphase))
(FR_bump (scoop FR_bump FR_bump_sharpness 0.99))
(FR_bump (* FR_bump FR_load FR_bump_amplitude FR_angvel))
#(FR_bump (split FR_bump 0.0 1.0 0.0 0.4 0.02))

# Scrub ----------------------------------------------
(FL_scrub (soft_clip FL_scrub 1.6 0.0))
(FL_scrub (scoop FL_scrub 0.8 0.999))
(FL_scrub (* FL_scrub (oscillator 1.2)))
(FR_scrub (soft_clip FR_scrub 1.6 0.0))
(FR_scrub (scoop FR_scrub 0.8 0.999))
(FR_scrub (* FR_scrub (oscillator 1.2)))


# Texture --------------------------------------------
(road_scale (* 0.0006 1.0))
(brk_scale (* 0.0005))
(bump_scale (* 0.24 1.0))
(scrub_scale (* 100.0 1.0))

(FL_tex (+ (* road_scale FL_road) (* brk_scale FL_brk) (* brk_scale FL_crnr) (* bump_scale FL_bump) (* scrub_scale FL_scrub)))
(FR_tex (+ (* road_scale FR_road) (* brk_scale FR_brk) (* brk_scale FR_crnr) (* bump_scale FR_bump) (* scrub_scale FR_scrub)))

(tex (+ FL_tex FR_tex))
(tex (* tex track_road_noise 0.4))

(tex (soft_clip tex 1.0 0.0))

# Engine ---------------------------------------------
(engine (oscillator (* throttle crankshaft 0.0006)))
(engine (split engine 0.0 1.0 0.0 0.1 0.02))

# Gearbox --------------------------------------------
(gearbox (oscillator (* (abs (- driveshaft_core clutchshaft_core)) 1.0)))
(gearbox (* gearbox gearbox_grind clutch 0.05))
(gearbox (spring gearbox 40000.0 0.2 1.0))
(gearbox (* gearbox 0.15))

(feel (+ tex gearbox))
(feel (spring feel device_filter_stiffness 0.4 1.0))

(output (+ output (* feel fx)))

# Low Speed Smoothing -------------------------------
(fast_scale (crossover vel_mag 0.0 1.0))
(slow_output (smooth output 0.2))
(slow_output (drag slow_output 0.0001 0.0))
(output (+ (* fast_scale output) (* (- 1.0 fast_scale) slow_output)))

# mass damper ---------------------------------------
(output (spring output device_mass_k 1.0 1.0))

#Deadzone Removal as pCARS 1 - deadzone/fall off
(output (tighten output 0.02 0.01))

(scaled_anti_drag (* device_drag (crossover vel_mag 0.0 10.0)))
(output (anti_drag output scaled_anti_drag device_friction 0.3))

(output (relative output 1.4 0.1 0.99))

(histogram output)

(output (hard_clip (* output gain) 1.0))

----

poirqc
24-06-2018, 11:22
I'm at 12:1 for SR with my settings. Sometimes the ffb is a bit vague in trail-brake-oversteer on corner entry.

I lost you there! :cool: It reminds me when someone would call a ski trick with too many term that nobody would understand!

Back to the point, are you steering too much or the back end is stepping out?

If I read you right, I'd guess your talking about the FFB deadzone I mentioned. I'm not using the right term. It's not absent, just not communicative enough. That's when you need to click it down a notch or 2.

But G2x being what they are, it might not be enough sometimes.

I'll confess that I'm not sure how much of what I suggest apply to RAW. I'm using Informative. It's auto level feature might make thing behave differently.

hkraft300
24-06-2018, 12:47
I lost you there! :cool: It reminds me when someone would call a ski trick with too many term that nobody would understand!

Back to the point, are you steering too much or the back end is stepping out?

If I read you right, I'd guess your talking about the FFB deadzone I mentioned. I'm not using the right term. It's not absent, just not communicative enough. That's when you need to click it down a notch or 2.

But G2x being what they are, it might not be enough sometimes.

I'll confess that I'm not sure how much of what I suggest apply to RAW. I'm using Informative. It's auto level feature might make thing behave differently.

Naaww entirely my fault. Staying on the brakes a little too much too late at corner entry that brings the back around.
Sometimes the ffb doesn't tell me the back is loose and it's usually too late to catch by the time I've clued on.

Steering too much is plain as day with the ffb. I can feel the front wheel scrub so I can back off the steering angle a bit.

poirqc
24-06-2018, 13:40
Naaww entirely my fault. Staying on the brakes a little too much too late at corner entry that brings the back around.
Sometimes the ffb doesn't tell me the back is loose and it's usually too late to catch by the time I've clued on.

Steering too much is plain as day with the ffb. I can feel the front wheel scrub so I can back off the steering angle a bit.

It happened all the time when I rent-a-karted before. To me the expected feeling is a yank of the wheel the side the rear is steping(That's the reason I never expected the lightness that comes from locking the brakes).

I get that most of the time(from memories). It's probably because I use Informative. Since you use raw, the front tire patch might not generate much forces as they rotate around itself?

Kaz1983
24-06-2018, 14:16
Anybody have their G29 set up so it's similar to a F1/LMP 1 type steering.... any race car from GTE to F1 pretty much. So 99% of the time 2 hands can keep on the wheel etc etc.... very rarely does your input need to be 1/2 turn (of the wheel) left or 1/2 turn (of the wheel..) to the right.. Anybody run a similar set up?

hkraft300
24-06-2018, 14:18
Anybody have their G29 set up so it's similar to a F1/LMP 1 type steering.... any race car from GTE to F1 pretty much. So 99% of the time 2 hands can keep on the wheel etc etc.... very rarely does your input need to be 1/2 turn (of the wheel) left or 1/2 turn (of the wheel..) to the right.. Anybody run a similar set up?

Steering ratio.
Adjust in car setup. If you want such quick steering you’re looking at 12:1 or lower.

poirqc
24-06-2018, 15:04
Steering ratio.
Adjust in car setup. If you want such quick steering you’re looking at 12:1 or lower.

This.

I'll add that you may need to lower Caster and/or FFB Volume if you start to clip too much(FFB ramp up as downforce comes into play.)

As always, it's a matter of tradeoffs.

ShneebnaMRR108
24-06-2018, 16:23
G920 Indi car FFB: In race on-line, with 8~10 cars.
RAW 91/24/42/0
SR 11.5

Or you can also try RAW 100/49/80/43 on the Indi Car.

Shogun613
24-06-2018, 21:06
So after some testing, I've settled on these for right now:

Immersive, 100, 30, 55, 60.

Having set the volume to 30 has opened up a world of detail, and while it is somewhat light on the straights, it weights up beautifully when the suspension is under load. The Tone is slightly higher than default and the tires feel more pliable during cornering, and I can feel the road surface and curbs very nicely with the FX at 60. So far, I've observed no clipping or spiking in the histogram.
I was testing at Zolder with the 911 GT3 R, and turns 2, 3, and 4 are where you can really feel the weight load up on the left side while feeling the flex of the tires. It was beautiful. I was able to push harder at Leipzig with the RSR and catch the oversteer at corner exit coming onto the back straight consistently, every time. I even beat my old time by a full second.
I'm still messing around with it, but low volume definitely seems like the way to go for now.

TekNeil
25-06-2018, 23:39
I'm back after struggling with clipping.

Strangely I'm now running the below with zero from the red bar/clipping. (I like the wheel heavy)

Informative
100
80
70
0

It feels 'OK', I'd like a little more detail, so will note this as a baseline and try backing off the tone maybe? For me it seems/feels like the slider works the wrong way around, when I lower it I feel much more grip/tyre slip whereas IIRC it says you get that with raising it in the description?

Not currently at PC to check.

hkraft300
26-06-2018, 00:18
I'm back after struggling with clipping.

Strangely I'm now running the below with zero from the red bar/clipping. (I like the wheel heavy)

Informative
100
80
70
0

It feels 'OK', I'd like a little more detail, so will note this as a baseline and try backing off the tone maybe? For me it seems/feels like the slider works the wrong way around, when I lower it I feel much more grip/tyre slip whereas IIRC it says you get that with raising it in the description?

Not currently at PC to check.

Reckon you’ll get better feel from tone <10. Give it a go.

Other flavs beside raw auto adjust volume and gain to avoid clipping iirc.

poirqc
26-06-2018, 03:07
I'm back after struggling with clipping.

Strangely I'm now running the below with zero from the red bar/clipping. (I like the wheel heavy)

Informative
100
80
70
0

It feels 'OK', I'd like a little more detail, so will note this as a baseline and try backing off the tone maybe? For me it seems/feels like the slider works the wrong way around, when I lower it I feel much more grip/tyre slip whereas IIRC it says you get that with raising it in the description?

Not currently at PC to check.

The reasons why you can only feel tire slip by lowering Tone is that your wheel is already overwhelmed from volume at 80. With a low tone, the force change is more sudden. With a high tone, its spread across a wider range or forces. Witch the G29 doesn't have. If you want to keep volume around that, you'll need to lower Tone. High tune actually output more forces, most of the time. It's always about tradeoffs, the higher the wheel weight, the less 'room' you'll have to generated details.


Reckon you’ll get better feel from tone <10. Give it a go.

Other flavs beside raw auto adjust volume and gain to avoid clipping iirc.

Informative and immersive somewhat deal with clipping automatically. However, it doesn't deal with all of it. G27\G29 saturate around 85%-90% to 100% force output. This means that if your always in the anti-clipping mechanism, you're actually clipping(Wheel output a constant force).

HTH.

TekNeil
26-06-2018, 03:26
Cheers to both of you. Appreciate the help. I find that I'm always wanting that low tone feeling of weight transfer, but still with a heavy feeling.

I'll try slowly bringing down the tone and see how it feels, then maybe bump it back up and try slowly bringing the volume down too. Just gotta find that sweet spot. Wish I could afford a direct drive wheel man...Damn house project!

hkraft300
26-06-2018, 03:27
What he said ^

I understand you want a heavy wheel but with a G29 you're losing detail. The motor is only good for torque spikes (kicks/peaks) and it's constant/nominal torque output is weak as piss.
You want heavy wheel + detail? Get a fanatec.

That said, the G29 wheel is certainly heavier than my wife's 2014 Clio...

Shogun613
26-06-2018, 04:12
Cheers to both of you. Appreciate the help. I find that I'm always wanting that low tone feeling of weight transfer, but still with a heavy feeling.

I'll try slowly bringing down the tone and see how it feels, then maybe bump it back up and try slowly bringing the volume down too. Just gotta find that sweet spot. Wish I could afford a direct drive wheel man...Damn house project!

If you want more detail, definitely go lower on the volume and adjust everything else to taste. You'll lose wheel weight in the straights, but you'll definitely feel weight transfer in the corners.

hkraft300
26-06-2018, 06:55
Not really bothered about detail or weight on the straights personally. Although traction feel is really important during braking going straight but with low tone I can feel individual wheel lock front or if the rears lock up.

banner77amc
26-06-2018, 13:47
I think the grip level is the most important part of using a FFB wheel. The cheap thrustmaster with spring only was great for arcade situations but I would always spin out at kerbs because I couldn't feel where things cut loose.

pferreirag60
26-06-2018, 16:58
For the people that want a heavy wheel try this: Logitech control panel, all forces at 150%

Use custom, with jack files ( i use mid with sop) and the following values: 100:45-80:0:10

Of course i adjusted the jack files just to remove the Deadzone when the wheel is centered (without changing that value you donīt feel anything when the wheel is centered)

With this values, I want to believe that i have the best FFB that a G25 could do in PCars2.


I must have writed this information in many postīs, because I feel that iīve discovered "the gun powder" :)

Shogun613
30-06-2018, 08:18
Did some more testing tonight, specifically isolation testing. I turned all of the sliders down to 0 except for gain, so I can slowly raise each slider to feel how it affects the ffb while it's isolated. 0 volume seems to completely cut the ffb off, so I set it to 1, then started with the tone slider.
Starting at low values, it seems to increase tire flex and grip feel, with barely noticeable curb and surface effects all throughout the scale. Only when I started to raise the FX values did I start to feel the uneven surfaces and curbs.
So while these may not be my final settings, I was doing some laps at Nords, Le Sarthe, Long Beach, RBR, and Zolder and having some serious fun with them.
256993
The ffb was VERY active, could feel the suspension moving around, the grip building up in the corners and falling away when I lost it, and understeer under hard braking. Nordschleife was definitely a workout, and everywhere else felt great. I can't wait to play around some more.😎

hkraft300
30-06-2018, 08:25
Looks complete opposite to what I have!

Take the vintage proto b cars out on the all terrain tires, tell me that’s no fun! Might be a good, raw gauge for the ffb too.

Shogun613
30-06-2018, 08:40
^Definitely will!

davidt33
30-06-2018, 09:46
Did some more testing tonight, specifically isolation testing. I turned all of the sliders down to 0 except for gain, so I can slowly raise each slider to feel how it affects the ffb while it's isolated. 0 volume seems to completely cut the ffb off, so I set it to 1, then started with the tone slider.
Starting at low values, it seems to increase tire flex and grip feel, with barely noticeable curb and surface effects all throughout the scale. Only when I started to raise the FX values did I start to feel the uneven surfaces and curbs.
So while these may not be my final settings, I was doing some laps at Nords, Le Sarthe, Long Beach, RBR, and Zolder and having some serious fun with them.
256993
The ffb was VERY active, could feel the suspension moving around, the grip building up in the corners and falling away when I lost it, and understeer under hard braking. Nordschleife was definitely a workout, and everywhere else felt great. I can't wait to play around some more.
I'd be interested to see what you finally settle with.
Off the bat I notice your Tone and FX seems to be quite high though (very high) but wondering if that's to compensate for your low Volume setting.
Comparatively this is my current setting:
Informative:
Gain: 95, Volume: 50, Tone: 40, FX: 45
(In Configuration, Steering Sensitivity at 50, and all Deadzones at "0" of course)

poirqc
30-06-2018, 12:50
I'd be interested to see what you finally settle with.
Off the bat I notice your Tone and FX seems to be quite high though (very high) but wondering if that's to compensate for your low Volume setting.
Comparatively this is my current setting:
Informative:
Gain: 95, Volume: 50, Tone: 40, FX: 45
(In Configuration, Steering Sensitivity at 50, and all Deadzones at "0" of course)

You have a finite window of forces you can play with. In the end, it's a balancing act of putting what you want in that window. So here, his approach is good from a balance perspective. I can't tell how well it works from a driving pov, but the numbers are good.

Immersive sends more forces to the wheel, High Tone also do. A high FX boost those 2. In the end, a lower volume won't mean a weak wheel with the other settings. It should be strong enough.

With this high tone and fx, a volume around 50 would probably saturate/clip all the time.

Cheers!

Shogun613
30-06-2018, 14:27
I'd be interested to see what you finally settle with.
Off the bat I notice your Tone and FX seems to be quite high though (very high) but wondering if that's to compensate for your low Volume setting.
Comparatively this is my current setting:
Informative:
Gain: 95, Volume: 50, Tone: 40, FX: 45
(In Configuration, Steering Sensitivity at 50, and all Deadzones at "0" of course)

Yes, the high tone and FX are indeed to compensate for the low volume. So far, from what I'm seeing, volume is basically how heavy you want your wheel to be, and maybe duplicates aero forces under load - I still have yet to test the open wheelers to test that theory...
But for me, from what I've been seeing, stripping away the volume allows everything else the headroom to really shine - it takes away that "vague" feel and let's the detail come out.
I tried an even higher FX setting while I was testing (I started at 5 then went 15, 50, 75, then 100) but those forces really start to wear your hands out. That's definitely a setting of preference. I like to feel the detail of the curbs, especially how the taller ones grab the car a little.
With the tone, I'm making sure the grip/slip and weight transfer forces remain dominant. There's nothing like feeling that suspension dance around at turns 2, 3, and 4 at Zolder in the 911 GT3-R. Man, that felt good!
So far, there's no clipping at all, so I I'm going to see how these numbers have an effect on the other flavors.

Shogun613
30-06-2018, 15:09
It should also be noted that I've moved my steering ratio up a bit in most cars from 10 - 10.5 to 11.5 - 12 for most cars in setup. As stated a few pages earlier in the thread, at lower steering ratios, the grip sensation falls off very quickly in oversteer situations making it difficult to catch. I'm trying to find a balance where that doesn't happen too quickly, while at the same time making sure I'm not crossing my hands over too much in the sharper corners.

Shogun613
01-07-2018, 16:48
Ok, so I tried out the Formula A and the 917K with my low volume settings. So far, it's pretty good. You can feel the downforce at work during fast cornering in the Formula A, and while it doesn't get as heavy as it would with a higher volume value, you can make it somewhat heavier by adding more tone. The 917K feels good as always, with a pretty good weighty feel to it. I had some fun at Brannochbrae with the GT3 RS as well, throwing it into the corners and catching the rear pretty easily.
I haven't tried the other flavors as of yet, but I'll get to 'em soon enough. Cheers!

hkraft300
02-07-2018, 03:25
I dropped volume on my wheel. I like it.

davidt33
05-07-2018, 13:43
Yes, the high tone and FX are indeed to compensate for the low volume. So far, from what I'm seeing, volume is basically how heavy you want your wheel to be, and maybe duplicates aero forces under load - I still have yet to test the open wheelers to test that theory...
But for me, from what I've been seeing, stripping away the volume allows everything else the headroom to really shine - it takes away that "vague" feel and let's the detail come out.
I tried an even higher FX setting while I was testing (I started at 5 then went 15, 50, 75, then 100) but those forces really start to wear your hands out. That's definitely a setting of preference. I like to feel the detail of the curbs, especially how the taller ones grab the car a little.
With the tone, I'm making sure the grip/slip and weight transfer forces remain dominant. There's nothing like feeling that suspension dance around at turns 2, 3, and 4 at Zolder in the 911 GT3-R. Man, that felt good!
So far, there's no clipping at all, so I I'm going to see how these numbers have an effect on the other flavors.
Any further update @Shogun613 (http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/member.php?94891-Shogun613) ? How's your testing going? Settled on anything yet you're comfortable with?
Once you've settled on something I'm thinking of giving it a try.

Shogun613
05-07-2018, 23:23
Any further update @Shogun613 (http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/member.php?94891-Shogun613) ? How's your testing going? Settled on anything yet you're comfortable with?
Once you've settled on something I'm thinking of giving it a try.

I'm still basically using the same settings, the only changes I've made was that I've backed off the tone to about 80 - 85, and bumped up the volume to about 20. That gave me some more downforce weight, and when running the Formula A at Silverstone, it felt GREAT wrestling the car around the right/left combo of Abbey and Farm curves.
As far as the other flavors go, immersive felt the best with these settings. There's still no clipping at all, and it still feels very detailed and active.
I'm loving these settings so far and I'm probably gonna run them for a while and try every type of car, but if I make some tweaks, I'll definitely post them.
Cheers!

davidt33
06-07-2018, 01:55
I'm still basically using the same settings, the only changes I've made was that I've backed off the tone to about 80 - 85, and bumped up the volume to about 20. That gave me some more downforce weight, and when running the Formula A at Silverstone, it felt GREAT wrestling the car around the right/left combo of Abbey and Farm curves.
As far as the other flavors go, immersive felt the best with these settings. There's still no clipping at all, and it still feels very detailed and active.
I'm loving these settings so far and I'm probably gonna run them for a while and try every type of car, but if I make some tweaks, I'll definitely post them.
Cheers!
Ok. What's your Flavour and Settings as it stands right now? Will try it myself. Curious.

Shogun613
06-07-2018, 04:09
Ok. What's your Flavour and Settings as it stands right now? Will try it myself. Curious.
Right now, here's what I'm using:
Immersive, Gain 100, Volume 20, Tone and FX both at 80.
The tone and FX values are a matter of taste, I suggest you start with a low volume setting of your choice, then raise the tone and FX values until you get a feeling you're comfortable with.

davidt33
06-07-2018, 10:45
Right now, here's what I'm using:
Immersive, Gain 100, Volume 20, Tone and FX both at 80.
The tone and FX values are a matter of taste, I suggest you start with a low volume setting of your choice, then raise the tone and FX values until you get a feeling you're comfortable with.
Thanks. I'll give it a shot for comparison and let you know what I think. I'll follow your adjustments advice too.

hkraft300
06-07-2018, 11:04
What's the immersive + high FX like on vintage cars?

Zaskarspants
06-07-2018, 11:13
Immersive and high fx nearly gave me rsi when I first had the game.

I find immersive too busy and confusing, and fx can cause issues when high ( I run zero) on low torque wheels. High fx soon crowds out low amplitude higher frequency slip forces that can be very helpful. With tone over 50 I find side slip info is too low.

I generally only adjust tone between cars using the raw profile to avoid clipping.

Shogun613
06-07-2018, 15:23
I use high FX because I like to feel the suspension move around to let me feel how the car reacts to the track surface. There are places where there are bumps mid corner that are problematic if you can't feel them. The same can be said for a lot of the curbs. For me, it gives a better sense of which curbs you can take or how much of them your car can handle.
Also, when you come over a crest, feeling the suspension unload can help with catching any oversteer when the car slams back down.

poirqc
06-07-2018, 15:56
I use high FX because I like to feel the suspension move around to let me feel how the car reacts to the track surface. There are places where there are bumps mid corner that are problematic if you can't feel them. The same can be said for a lot of the curbs. For me, it gives a better sense of which curbs you can take or how much of them your car can handle.
Also, when you come over a crest, feeling the suspension unload can help with catching any oversteer when the car slams back down.

This part does’nt only comes from Fx. Take my signature settings. This feeling is crystal clear, for example, at Olton Park Foster, even with only 3 Fx.

Maybe the whole template balance plays a bigger role about various specific feelings.

Shogun613
06-07-2018, 16:37
Maybe the whole template balance plays a bigger role about various specific feelings.
That's what I'm thinking, because to me it seems that those kind of sensations come through a bit differently with some volume stripped away.

davidt33
06-07-2018, 20:06
Just some notes as I went back to review FFB stuff again. Might be useful for consideration. (Note note re FX).

DEFAULT FORCE FEEDBACK (FFB) Settings:
Flavour: Immersive/Informative/Raw
Gain: 100, Volume: 50, Tone: 50, FX: 50, Menu Spring Strength: 0.40


Notes (Parameters)
• Gain: Final/Overall FFB output strength
• Volume: Internal volume of effects (i.e: the FFB level that happens to be just before the game/gain parameter). Use it to control clipping/weight.
…..Decrease if getting clipping or want to reduce the general weight of steering wheel and feel the lighter FFB effects more pronounced.
…..Increase if you’re not having clipping and want to have your feeling on the steering wheel.
• Tone: Allows you to emphasise certain FFB effects. Extremities explained in following example:
…..“0” = More surface detail. Aligning Torque (Mz)….Surface detail will be more obvious but you will lose tyre slip feeling. On the other hand…
....“100” = More tyre slip. Side load (Fy). i.e: Emphasises slip but/while making surface detail less obvious.
[Default value is “50” so you have a balance between surface detail and tyre slip. (Note: If you change this value you may need to adjust the Volume parameter to avoid clipping or increase the force feedback)]
• FX*: Use it to increase or smooth the effects of surface detail, bumps or kurbs….but keep in mind this might provoke clipping or reduce track surface information you receive through the steering wheel so you may need to adjust the Volume parameter afterwards. (Default FX value = “50”).
….….*(Note: FX is like a Gain control for just road surface detail, too much will definitely over-saturate (clip) force feedback on entry and mid-range wheels).


Notes (Flavours):
• IMMERSIVE: Replicates the feel of road surfaces, kerbs, tyre slip, weight and suspension movements felt through the steering wheel and as experienced in the real world.
• INFORMATIVE: Designed to give more of a detailed feel of road surfaces, kerbs, tyre slip, weight and suspension movements.
• RAW: Unfiltered. Better suited for Direct Drive wheels. Eg: Fanatec, Thrustmaster T300…)
• CUSTOM: (PC Only). Configure your own profile. Requires editing the FFB text file in respective “My Documents” folder


Testing advice: Start by using Default values (Gain=100, Vol-50, Tone=50, FX=50). Then adjust to taste.
- Use Knockhill International anytime you’re going to drive/test a car for the first time.
- Select one of the cars that have 4 stars as FFB score (eg: Radical RXC Turbo, Lotus Type 25 Climax, McClaren F1 GTR, Mercedes Benz 190 E2.516 DTN, Ferrari 488 GT3)

davidt33
06-07-2018, 20:13
This is what concerns me about setting FX too high:


….….*(Note: FX is like a Gain control for just road surface detail, too much will definitely over-saturate (clip) force feedback on entry and mid-range wheels).
(I know you can lower volume to compensate but still wondering if it's worth it to sacrifice so much Volume. And then there's the concern re affect on entry and mid-range wheels)

Shogun613
06-07-2018, 21:45
This is what concerns me about setting FX too high:


(I know you can lower volume to compensate but still wondering if it's worth it to sacrifice so much Volume. And then there's the concern re affect on entry and mid-range wheels)
I thought about the overall sacrifice of volume when I started testing also. To my surprise, (at least to my liking) there is plenty of weight in the wheel, and while keeping an eye on the ffb graph/histogram, there are more mid-range forces than anything else and forces never go into the red.

davidt33
06-07-2018, 23:04
I thought about the overall sacrifice of volume when I started testing also. To my surprise, (at least to my liking) there is plenty of weight in the wheel, and while keeping an eye on the ffb graph/histogram, there are more mid-range forces than anything else and forces never go into the red.
I was going to try your parameter adjustments but the extra high FX and extra low Volume (to compensate) frightened me, I have to admit after reading up from further research and notations.
A good thing came out of it though. You gave me the impetus to have another look and investigation of my FFB. I was pretty much content with what I had but still felt somehow the wheel felt a little lightish at times. So I did some practice runs with what I had already (INFORMATIVE) including existing safe parameters....Gain: 95, Volume: 50, Tone: 40, FX: 45.

Next I tried same with IMMERSIVE. It made a nice difference giving the wheel a bit more heavier feel (Just right), and everything else felt quite good too. I can't believe the difference it's made and I like it. Think it's a keeper. So thanks bro.

Shogun613
06-07-2018, 23:27
I was going to try your parameter adjustments but the extra high FX and extra low Volume (to compensate) frightened me, I have to admit after reading up from further research and notations.
A good thing came out of it though. You gave me the impetus to have another look and investigation of my FFB. I was pretty much content with what I had but still felt somehow the wheel felt a little lightish at times. So I did some practice runs with what I had already (INFORMATIVE) including existing safe parameters....Gain: 95, Volume: 50, Tone: 40, FX: 45.

Next I tried same with IMMERSIVE. It made a nice difference giving the wheel a bit more heavier feel (Just right), and everything else felt quite good too. I can't believe the difference it's made and I like it. Think it's a keeper. So thanks bro.
Anytime, Trini! I'm glad you landed on a setting you like.

wenjunyang1990
08-07-2018, 08:34
Hi guys

Who can provide a G29 setup for me pls

how I can make it more realistic in the game.

Zaskarspants
08-07-2018, 09:18
All the forces are derived from the various suspension models and a complicated tyre model so they are as realistic as the algorithms and programming allow within the current hardware limitations.

The flavours and tone adjustment provide way for you to tune the ffb to your liking. FX increases the impact from kerbs and impacts but is best kept low on the g29.

Low tone brings out horizontal forces on the tyre emphasizing grip and turn in feelings. High tone focuses on vertical forces and you feel the weight transfer and car movement more keenly.

Immersive - Most dramatic but i fond it confusing.
Informative - Less strong forces, less seat of pants feeling than immersive ( imagine g forces ).
Raw - Most nuanced, many find this setting a bit weak on g29 but I would say this is the most detailed setting but low forces are quite quiet in the ffb mix.

poirqc
08-07-2018, 10:40
You can try the settings in my signature. Might need to change the Caster and Steering angle to taste in the garage for some cars.

davidt33
08-07-2018, 11:42
Try this. Working great for me.
....(And of course make sure you calibrate your wheel and pedals properly first)

MY CURRENT FFB FLAVOUR/SETTINGS:
Flavour - Immersive:
Gain: 95, Volume: 50, Tone: 40, FX: 45, Menu: 0.30


CONFIGURATION Settings:
Steering Deadzone: 0 (Leave all Deadzones at "0" as seen)
Steering Sensitivity: 50<---(DON'T CHANGE THIS)
Throttle Deadzone: 0
Throttle Sensitivity: 50
Brake Deadzone: 0
Brake Sensitivity: 50
Clutch Deadzone: 0
Clutch Sensitivity: 50
Speed Sensitivity: 45 (Suggested by Ben Collins, WMD Physics Consultant of the game)
Damper Saturation: 25 (default for user of T300) or lower used by other WMD members
…..The following Controller settings only pertinent for Controller users:
Controller Damping: 100
Controller Vibration: 50

Cladandadum
09-07-2018, 20:40
Try this. Working great for me.
....(And of course make sure you calibrate your wheel and pedals properly first)

MY CURRENT FFB FLAVOUR/SETTINGS:
Flavour - Immersive:
Gain: 95, Volume: 50, Tone: 40, FX: 45, Menu: 0.30


CONFIGURATION Settings:
Steering Deadzone: 0 (Leave all Deadzones at "0" as seen)
Steering Sensitivity: 50<---(DON'T CHANGE THIS)
Throttle Deadzone: 0
Throttle Sensitivity: 50
Brake Deadzone: 0
Brake Sensitivity: 50
Clutch Deadzone: 0
Clutch Sensitivity: 50
Speed Sensitivity: 45 (Suggested by Ben Collins, WMD Physics Consultant of the game)
Damper Saturation: 25 (default for user of T300) or lower used by other WMD members
…..The following Controller settings only pertinent for Controller users:
Controller Damping: 100
Controller Vibration: 50

I tried your settings last night and really enjoyed the feedback i was getting. My previous settings were similar, aside from changing from informative to immersive and upping the speed sensitivity.

davidt33
09-07-2018, 21:13
I tried your settings last night and really enjoyed the feedback i was getting. My previous settings were similar, aside from changing from informative to immersive and upping the speed sensitivity.
Glad to hear. I'm really pleased with it myself. Seems just right all round.
I was using the same settings with Informative before myself and they seemed good but I find the Immersive flavour was giving even a better feel with the same settings. Wheel feels very good including good feel for the track also.