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rmb24
05-04-2018, 17:03
So i bought the Porsche pack. I took the 917 on private testing and i'm having lots of oversteer while on throttle in a straight line. I trying my best to give as much throttle control to keep the car stable. I understand the car to begin with has a ton of power but is there somewhere in tuning that can help reduce this ? correct me if i may be wrong but i was thinking it would have to do with differential settings/ LSD's

this also happens with the Group 5 Porsche as well or any high powered car for that matter. I just feel like i cant push the car at all with out it coming around. Another thing with the group 5 Porsche is that as the RPMs climb and i get to around 7-8k i get a rush of power from the turbo and spin out crashing violently lol

please only constructive criticism, i am still learning when it comes to tuning.

blinkngone
05-04-2018, 17:37
Well, first if you are using the 917/10 with the spool it's going to give you problems as you described on boost. If you want to use the spool you will have to learn to feather the throttle. In other words back off a little. Also pick a track and focus on learning that track with the car you want to tune. Then, set a goal for the lap time you want to achieve and tune/drive to get there, then try setting a faster goal and repeat.

rmb24
05-04-2018, 18:32
If i remember correctly i believe i have the geared lsd selected as on ( currently not in game ). what would be the best choice of the LSD's to use ?

The track i was using this on since i know it fairly well is Road America. After turn 3 on to the Moraine Strait i will be accelerating but the back end is very unstable. when i feel the rear start to get loose i back off the throttle and goes away so i keep my self from spinning out..

here is a video i found.. i tried this car in the dlc. i have no idea how they managed to keep it on track

https://youtu.be/ejAijbAfNys
https://youtu.be/ejAijbAfNys

John Hargreaves
05-04-2018, 18:49
Another way of thinking about this is that the controller is not the most intuitive device for controlling a car; tiny movements of the sticks equate to relatively large movements on the car. Now some people have 21st century thumbs, so they have the fine motor control necessary to succeed in racing sims. My thumbs are still stuck in the 20th century, so I just don't have that dexterity to operate everything smoothly. Now, we are talking very fine differences here, I try to be as smooth as possible in my inputs, but I know that I just can't match with a controller on my PS4 what I can do with a wheel on my PC. So I don't even try, I use TC/SC/ABS when I'm using the controller, and it really fills in the gaps and makes the car drive how I know it can be driven using a wheel, those tiny millisecond sharp adjustments that you make all the time.
On my PC, with a wheel, that Porsche is a joy to drive all assists off, but on console I have no chance, so I use the assists and it is much closer to how it is on the wheel. I can't see the point in making it artificially hard for myself, when it ceases to become enjoyable. Driving actually feels more realistic to use the assists.

Just a personal perspective, but it won't do any harm to try. Since I started to forgive myself for not being as good as a professional driver who has spent thousands of hours doing this job, I have been happier.

rmb24
05-04-2018, 19:01
Another way of thinking about this is that the controller is not the most intuitive device for controlling a car; tiny movements of the sticks equate to relatively large movements on the car. Now some people have 21st century thumbs, so they have the fine motor control necessary to succeed in racing sims. My thumbs are still stuck in the 20th century, so I just don't have that dexterity to operate everything smoothly. Now, we are talking very fine differences here, I try to be as smooth as possible in my inputs, but I know that I just can't match with a controller on my PS4 what I can do with a wheel on my PC. So I don't even try, I use TC/SC/ABS when I'm using the controller, and it really fills in the gaps and makes the car drive how I know it can be driven using a wheel, those tiny millisecond sharp adjustments that you make all the time.
On my PC, with a wheel, that Porsche is a joy to drive all assists off, but on console I have no chance, so I use the assists and it is much closer to how it is on the wheel. I can't see the point in making it artificially hard for myself, when it ceases to become enjoyable. Driving actually feels more realistic to use the assists.

Just a personal perspective, but it won't do any harm to try. Since I started to forgive myself for not being as good as a professional driver who has spent thousands of hours doing this job, I have been happier.

I'm not using a controller. I've been using the Thrustmaster 458 Spider, ever since i got that i've never looked back. I'm in the market to upgrade now.. been looking at the Thrustmaster TMX since its the most affordable wheel with my current budget.. and it will work for both pc and xbox which will be nice since i will be able to use it with Raceroom.

blinkngone
05-04-2018, 19:10
If i remember correctly i believe i have the geared lsd selected as on ( currently not in game ). what would be the best choice of the LSD's to use ?

The track i was using this on since i know it fairly well is Road America. After turn 3 on to the Moraine Strait i will be accelerating but the back end is very unstable. when i feel the rear start to get loose i back off the throttle and goes away so i keep my self from spinning out..

here is a video i found.. i tried this car in the dlc. i have no idea how they managed to keep it on track



https://youtu.be/ejAijbAfNys
https://youtu.be/ejAijbAfNys



Ok, it's a difficult car with the controller as you can see by the 2 controller runs in at this track. I am going to post a setup for you to consider, the LSD used is Clutch LSD(the most popular choice in the game as well). Don't be too hard on yourself if you can't manage the 917/10 for a while, it's a difficult car even with a wheel. Also, are you running full boost with the largest restrictor?
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John Hargreaves
05-04-2018, 19:52
I'm not using a controller.

Ah, sorry. In that case you just need to practise laying gold leaf on a sleeping butterfly's wing with your right foot, without waking it, then you will be ready :rolleyes:

rmb24
05-04-2018, 20:02
Ok, it's a difficult car with the controller as you can see by the 2 controller runs in at this track. I am going to post a setup for you to consider, the LSD used is Clutch LSD(the most popular choice in the game as well). Don't be too hard on yourself if you can't manage the 917/10 for a while, it's a difficult car even with a wheel. Also, are you running full boost with the largest restrictor?


thanks for the tune i will give this a run and see how i do.

the boost i don't remember changing.. i did however turn it down to 65 on the 934 and when it hits 8000 rpm it didnt kick so hard on me after i turned it down from 75 as default.

rmb24
05-04-2018, 20:05
Ah, sorry. In that case you just need to practise laying gold leaf on a sleeping butterfly's wing with your right foot, without waking it, then you will be ready :rolleyes:

lmao, i will take that into consideration :D

rmb24
06-04-2018, 02:54
Ok , tried your set up for this car and it’s alot more manageable.. still a handful but very much headed in the right direction.

I do have a question about damping though. When they mention about increase and decrease. Which way is increasing? Smaller numbers or larger.. I would assume larger is increasing but I could be mistaken

blinkngone
06-04-2018, 08:53
Ok , tried your set up for this car and it’s alot more manageable.. still a handful but very much headed in the right direction.

I do have a question about damping though. When they mention about increase and decrease. Which way is increasing? Smaller numbers or larger.. I would assume larger is increasing but I could be mistaken
Are you talking about the Race Engineer? Increasing(making the suspension harder/stiffer) would be the larger number.

rmb24
06-04-2018, 10:59
My bad ,I meant the bump and rebound. Springs I know what direction I need to go to stiffen or loosen

Bealdor
06-04-2018, 11:06
My bad ,I meant the bump and rebound. Springs I know what direction I need to go to stiffen or loosen

Higher numbers will increase the damping, i.e. get you closer to critical damping condition.

rmb24
06-04-2018, 12:30
Alright for example then. If I have my bump at lower number setting, the wheel wil will go up into the wheel well slower and if I have a higher number rebound , the wheel will come back down to the road surface faster

Am I right on that then ?

blinkngone
06-04-2018, 13:55
Alright for example then. If I have my bump at lower number setting, the wheel wil will go up into the wheel well slower and if I have a higher number rebound , the wheel will come back down to the road surface faster

Am I right on that then ?

I am not positive but if you have the slow bump lower the wheel will go up into the wheel well more quickly. I think you are correct about the rebound.

Have you checked out the Sticky yet?
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?55139-Post-6-Can-someone-explain-dampers

rmb24
06-04-2018, 16:57
Ok, I just wanted to make sure I understood correctly. When I adjusted settings in forza 6 they had a bar look below that they had softer and stiffer under that, so you didn’t get as confused as to what way you had to go.

rmb24
10-06-2018, 19:52
Ok, it’s been about 2 patches since I initially posted. I thought possibly that since they put out some fixes with tire grip that I would have better luck driving the higher HP cars , the group 5 cars, Group C etc. unfortunately I still have difficulty. I don’t know if it’s the Xbox one version since I’ve read there are cases of instability of the older concole with this game than There is with the one X or Pc.

In general I feel like I can’t get up to speed with them . If I give too much throttle I am all over the place with loads of oversteer. If I am careful with the throttle I am 10+ seconds off pace with the rest of the grid. I have tried testing in a practice session and while in career. Currently I am using the Nissan 280zx

blinkngone
10-06-2018, 20:31
Ok, it’s been about 2 patches since I initially posted. I thought possibly that since they put out some fixes with tire grip that I would have better luck driving the higher HP cars , the group 5 cars, Group C etc. unfortunately I still have difficulty. I don’t know if it’s the Xbox one version since I’ve read there are cases of instability of the older concole with this game than There is with the one X or Pc.

In general I feel like I can’t get up to speed with them . If I give too much throttle I am all over the place with loads of oversteer. If I am careful with the throttle I am 10+ seconds off pace with the rest of the grid. I have tried testing in a practice session and while in career. Currently I am using the Nissan 280zx

Hey, here is another thread on controller settings. http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?63680-Controller-Settings&p=1517865&viewfull=1#post1517865

Opposite lock needs to be off. The 6.0 patch tires are easier to control than the 5.0 patch tires so here at least you are better off. The Datsun 280 ZX isn't exactly an easy car to drive.

EDIT, sorry, I forgot you are using a wheel.:o It's been a while and I am old.:p Where is your throttle/steering/brake sensitivity set at?

Ok, is this the car? I ran this one for a lap.
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rmb24
10-06-2018, 22:39
They are all set on 50 and left them there. Since getting the new wheel (thrustmaster TMX) Its really expanded the game.

That is the car I am driving. I would download a turn and try but I chose not to renew live membership due to crappy bandwidth available. I’m limited to dsl.. cable is an option but it’s way over priced for the locally owned provider than what xfinity offers which is cheaper then our locally owned cable company.

Back to the car lol , what I have noticed I need to do is before shifting is let off the throttle and then shift or the car really likes to bite, usually around 2nd it does that other than that I don’t need to do that. Cornering can be tough at times. Back end likes to come around. I have tried adjusting anti-roll on the front and rear. Along with spring stiffnes.

I really enjoy the older cars but sometimes they are quite a handful. So I don’t want to throw in the towel and give up. I am not the most knowledgeable when it comes to tuning. If I get understeer I focus on the front and when oversteer I look at the rear. Having a better understanding of what parts of the car to tweak and when would be useful. For instance ARBs would you adjust them for mid corner only ? Are dampers for corrner entry and exit.. stuff like that.

blinkngone
10-06-2018, 23:07
They are all set on 50 and left them there. Since getting the new wheel (thrustmaster TMX) Its really expanded the game.

That is the car I am driving. I would download a turn and try but I chose not to renew live membership due to crappy bandwidth available. I’m limited to dsl.. cable is an option but it’s way over priced for the locally owned provider than what xfinity offers which is cheaper then our locally owned cable company.

Back to the car lol , what I have noticed I need to do is before shifting is let off the throttle and then shift or the car really likes to bite, usually around 2nd it does that other than that I don’t need to do that. Cornering can be tough at times. Back end likes to come around. I have tried adjusting anti-roll on the front and rear. Along with spring stiffnes.

I really enjoy the older cars but sometimes they are quite a handful. So I don’t want to throw in the towel and give up. I am not the most knowledgeable when it comes to tuning. If I get understeer I focus on the front and when oversteer I look at the rear. Having a better understanding of what parts of the car to tweak and when would be useful. For instance ARBs would you adjust them for mid corner only ? Are dampers for corrner entry and exit.. stuff like that.

Ok, so we have the same car, if you can I would like you to switch to Silverstone National, it's the only track I can drive. If you are not using Default setups then you can't just assume that understeer is related to the front only when you start adjusting and the same for oversteer. All the components are working together along with your driving inputs. Try driving the track using one of the Default setups and let me know how you do. If it is too much of a handful I'll give you my setup and you can try that then we can work together to make adjustments, if you have time.
Track. The 1st rightEDITED is Copse, high speed, start easing on the brake at the 100 marker on your left, not too much, it is easy to lock the brakes making you think it is understeering but it's not, your brakes are locking. Next up is Beckett's, same here, slow early or you will lock up and run wide left instead of going properly right onto the Wellington straight. Next is Brookland's , this is really key to running a good lap, you want to be able to run almost on the inside curbing without getting a penalty in order to setup Luffield, again this is imperative to stay close to the inside curbing or you will run wide on exit. At Woodcote you want to be toward the inside as you enter the Start/finish straight.
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Ok, I was able to improve my time a little, lots of throttle feathering and better braking. Oh, I tried Soft tires but with the new color palette the inside/lefts quickly turned dayglo yellow. I switched to hards and even these are a problem.
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rmb24
11-06-2018, 00:04
Yeah I can run that.. right now I am tied up with family stuff.. 3 Kiddos eats up a lot of time lol . But . I’m familiar with it.

I have noticed the lock up with that car.. and others. If lock up and the rear comes around I know I have too much to the rear. So I will put more on the front but then I usually end up locking up and skid through the corner. I have the same issue with other cars , not all of them though.

blinkngone
11-06-2018, 00:27
Yeah I can run that.. right now I am tied up with family stuff.. 3 Kiddos eats up a lot of time lol . But . Iím familiar with it.

I have noticed the lock up with that car.. and others. If lock up and the rear comes around I know I have too much to the rear. So I will put more on the front but then I usually end up locking up and skid through the corner. I have the same issue with other cars , not all of them though.

Cool, no rush, family time is first. Here is my setup, I haven't adjusted Brake bias yet. I think Default has the Boost at only 70%. TBH on PC we all pretty much suck with this car. In general we are multiple seconds behind a GT3 such as the Audi R8 LMS at many tracks because the more tight turns at a track the more difficult it is to tame this beast and there hasn't been much interest shown in trying to figure it out. 5 seconds behind at Sugo for example.

http://cars2-stats-steam.wmdportal.com/index.php/leaderboard?track=3270746104&vehicle=3406832937

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rmb24
12-06-2018, 04:46
Alright took the 280zx out for a spin. I ran 10 laps with my set up in which I didnít change drastically from default and put up a 56.819 as my fastest.

Went back to the pits and put in all the info from the screen shots you attached and managed to put up a very slightly faster time of 56.095

So after running both set ups I couldnít tell the difference of which one felt better. The boost was more noticeable with your settings so which made 2nd gear kick even more around 8000rpm

blinkngone
12-06-2018, 08:53
Alright took the 280zx out for a spin. I ran 10 laps with my set up in which I didn’t change drastically from default and put up a 56.819 as my fastest.

Went back to the pits and put in all the info from the screen shots you attached and managed to put up a very slightly faster time of 56.095

So after running both set ups I couldn’t tell the difference of which one felt better. The boost was more noticeable with your settings so which made 2nd gear kick even more around 8000rpm

Ok. Previously you had been running the 70% Default boost, if the kick is bothering you try going down to 85% and see if you like that better. As far as the boost goes I only picked up 2 tenths with the boost from 70% to 100% because of the limited straights so going back to 70% isn't going to be where you are losing most of your time. How are you doing with the braking? Is that still one of your biggest issues? Is there any particular corner that is giving you the most trouble?

blinkngone
12-06-2018, 09:37
Alright, I changed the setup a little, went back to 70% boost, changed the Brake bias to 52/48, changed the rear bump transition from 435 down to 240. Made an adjustment to the LSD. I was able to make up for the reduced acceleration from lower boost by improving corner entry.
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Ok, this car doesn't have TC or ABS(as far as I know). Make sure you have all steering and braking assists off and set Stability control to Authentic so it can be used on the Road cars that have it.
When braking try to start earlier with less pressure to avoid locking up and don't completely left off the brake, keep slight pressure until you are ready to accelerate. Early and easy is best.

On PC there were only 5 runs made, the one in the middle is 0:55.240 +0:00.697. As for my time I think it is pretty good but I don't know for sure, let's assume I am slower than I should be by 5 tenths so a good run with this car could be 54.000. If you can get within 2% of a WR you are doing well in my opinion so for a goal if you can manage a 55.08 that is great.

Another car in the same class is the Ford Zakspeed Capri with a WR at 0:53.666 the BMW 320 Turbo WR is a 0:51.958.

rmb24
12-06-2018, 12:40
Ok. Previously you had been running the 70% Default boost, if the kick is bothering you try going down to 85% and see if you like that better. As far as the boost goes I only picked up 2 tenths with the boost from 70% to 100% because of the limited straights so going back to 70% isn't going to be where you are losing most of your time. How are you doing with the braking? Is that still one of your biggest issues? Is there any particular corner that is giving you the most trouble?

If i get on the breaks too long the rear eventually comes around, I try to nail my breaking point around the 100 meter point. With this car i am down shifting a gear first then apply breaking, because if i apply break and downshift the also comes around. So that downshift one gear and then steady on the break with threshold technique seems to work the best.




Alright, I changed the setup a little, went back to 70% boost, changed the Brake bias to 52/48, changed the rear bump transition from 435 down to 240. Made an adjustment to the LSD. I was able to make up for the reduced acceleration from lower boost by improving corner entry.
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Ok, this car doesn't have TC or ABS(as far as I know). Make sure you have all steering and braking assists off and set Stability control to Authentic so it can be used on the Road cars that have it.
When braking try to start earlier with less pressure to avoid locking up and don't completely left off the brake, keep slight pressure until you are ready to accelerate. Early and easy is best.

On PC there were only 5 runs made, the one in the middle is 0:55.240 +0:00.697. As for my time I think it is pretty good but I don't know for sure, let's assume I am slower than I should be by 5 tenths so a good run with this car could be 54.000. If you can get within 2% of a WR you are doing well in my opinion so for a goal if you can manage a 55.08 that is great.

Another car in the same class is the Ford Zakspeed Capri with a WR at 0:53.666 the BMW 320 Turbo WR is a 0:51.958.

All assists are set to authentic , as well as no steering or breaking assist either.

I also made some minor adjustments to your set up after watching the instant replay of my lap. I noticed that the front end was dipping a lot and seemed to be bottoming out so i raised the front spring rate about 2 clicks. I also adjusted the break bias to 61 to the front to help with stopping and was helping.

The Zakspeed Capri is a car i'm familiar with as i used it a lot when i was playing forza 6 before PC1 was released. Was going to run a lap with that before i jumped off but it was getting late and needed sleep to get up for work this morning lol. Hope fully i can get a chance to jump on tonight and apply those settings you suggested.

blinkngone
12-06-2018, 13:13
If i get on the breaks too long the rear eventually comes around, I try to nail my breaking point around the 100 meter point. With this car i am down shifting a gear first then apply breaking, because if i apply break and downshift the also comes around. So that downshift one gear and then steady on the break with threshold technique seems to work the best.






All assists are set to authentic , as well as no steering or breaking assist either.

I also made some minor adjustments to your set up after watching the instant replay of my lap. I noticed that the front end was dipping a lot and seemed to be bottoming out so i raised the front spring rate about 2 clicks. I also adjusted the break bias to 61 to the front to help with stopping and was helping.

The Zakspeed Capri is a car i'm familiar with as i used it a lot when i was playing forza 6 before PC1 was released. Was going to run a lap with that before i jumped off but it was getting late and needed sleep to get up for work this morning lol. Hope fully i can get a chance to jump on tonight and apply those settings you suggested.

Ok, based on your observations I tried the increase in spring rate but this caused me too much of a front end slide through Becketts(on this corner, to get it set up properly, I need to be able to use the curbing on the left a little and the stiffer springs would spin me out here). Brooklands as well I was sliding which really can impair the corner entry and this makes the car more sensitive to the curbing through here and Luffield. Instead I increased the front slow bump which will slow the bounce you noticed. I adjusted my brake bias to 58 since you seem more comfortable with front bias and I was able to improve my time slightly so we can run more similar setups.
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rmb24
12-06-2018, 14:14
see in my way of thinking I would of changed the front's bump transition or rebound rather than the slow bump. From what i can remember the games description is that the slow bump is driver input rate. Not saying you are incorrect. Certain parts of the car i can remember what does what but damper settings i still have to go back a re-read how they work.. I'm still learning :D

blinkngone
12-06-2018, 16:33
see in my way of thinking I would of changed the front's bump transition or rebound rather than the slow bump. From what i can remember the games description is that the slow bump is driver input rate. Not saying you are incorrect. Certain parts of the car i can remember what does what but damper settings i still have to go back a re-read how they work.. I'm still learning :D

Yes, slow bump and rebound is driver and fast is road. But if my inputs are causing the problem then I adjust those, if my input is too fast with the reduced slow bump then I will cause the front to lose grip. I am not always a solution as a driver but also part of the problem. If the problem wasn't mostly with me I could just run Default and I'd be fine like the better drivers.:D Too stiff springs can cause problems as well causing the tire to easily lose contact with the road. I haven't adjusted the Bump Stops yet, the cars seem to move too much but this car has more Bump Stops at 30/35 than other cars in the class. The 935s, BMW 320 Turbo and the Zakspeed are all at 0 Bump stops front and rear. With this car and the 30/35 stops we have reduced the suspension travel, I don't know if this is good or bad yet. I never liked the way the Group 5 cars pogo around the track which is why I have avoided them and don't watch replays much. At some tracks they actually bury the front splitter/air dam into the surface on replays. If we get rid of the Bump Stops then you will most likely enjoy the replays even less.;) Heck we might even run out of ground clearance.

I made a quick run with the Zakspeed at 0:54.119 +0:00.453. I am quicker with the BMW at 0:53.040 +0:01.082 but further from the WR.
Zakspeed Bump Stops.
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With the Datsun the Slow Bump Default is 8400 and I have only increased it a little bit, which I think is better than increasing the springs, to get it to turn better which is what I think you are trying to do. I haven't even come close to the maximum value.
Bump maximum.
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See the notes from the Engineer off to the side? "It controls the dynamic weight transfer and the overall motion of the main chassis relative to the track surface when the car turns, slows and accelerates." so if you don't like the up and down motion we can go higher here. I know you remember the first sentence.:D
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rmb24
13-06-2018, 01:25
If I get a chance later tonight i’ll run some laps with the Zakspeed and see how I do. I was watching videos from the SafeIsFast’s YouTube channel on oversteer understeer amd one that covered damping and was also very helpful as well.

I think my biggest issue is trying to determine how to fix oversteer or understeer the easiest of all the ways to fix them when I come across them. Other than fix the end that has the issue, figuring out what to look at or adjust first is what I wanna achieve

blinkngone
13-06-2018, 01:35
If I get a chance later tonight i’ll run some laps with the Zakspeed and see how I do. I was watching videos from the SafeIsFast’s YouTube channel on oversteer understeer amd one that covered damping and was also very helpful as well.

I think my biggest issue is trying to determine how to fix oversteer or understeer the easiest of all the ways to fix them when I come across them. Other than fix the end that has the issue, figuring out what to look at or adjust first is what I wanna achieve

Ok, have fun with the Zakspeed. You have picked a tough class of cars(Group 5) to learn on.:D The plus is on PC we have bytecruncher26 with many runs/setups for the Zakspeed and BMW.

rmb24
13-06-2018, 03:39
Ok. Managed to put down a 56.194 so not as fast as the datson but that car does have more horse power I belive . Got the car to be as manageable as I can get it. Made some changes seemed to help.

These class of cars indeed challenging to say the least, but I like the change it up. Running gt3 cars most of the time can get boring after some time.

blinkngone
13-06-2018, 08:45
Ok. Managed to put down a 56.194 so not as fast as the datson but that car does have more horse power I belive . Got the car to be as manageable as I can get it. Made some changes seemed to help.

These class of cars indeed challenging to say the least, but I like the change it up. Running gt3 cars most of the time can get boring after some time.

Hi, these 2 cars are close in horsepower to weight, 2.99 lbs per hp for the Zakspeed and 2.89 for the Datsun. The Zakspeed, being almost 1,000 pounds lighter, has an advantage in cornering on tighter tracks. Of the few tracks where the Datsun is ahead in TT one is Le Mans by a couple of seconds but this could also be just the driver, on most of the rest of the tracks the Datsun lags considerably. The Group 5 is between the BMW, Zakspeed and the 935s with the Datsun toward the rear ahead of the Silhouette.

So what do you want to do? Go back and work on the Datsun some more?

rmb24
13-06-2018, 14:18
Hi, these 2 cars are close in horsepower to weight, 2.99 lbs per hp for the Zakspeed and 2.89 for the Datsun. The Zakspeed, being almost 1,000 pounds lighter, has an advantage in cornering on tighter tracks. Of the few tracks where the Datsun is ahead in TT one is Le Mans by a couple of seconds but this could also be just the driver, on most of the rest of the tracks the Datsun lags considerably. The Group 5 is between the BMW, Zakspeed and the 935s with the Datsun toward the rear ahead of the Silhouette.

So what do you want to do? Go back and work on the Datsun some more?

I mostlikely will. Along with the Porsche’s since I love Porsche hence the avatar lol.

Edit
The thing that gets me the worst is the boost. Next time im gonna lower the boost by 10 see how I do.

The Group 5 935’s I have the same issues with in reference to boost. And the pogo term you made reference too I notice a lot with the Porsche’s. The last time I used them which was a few months ago, it seemed no matter how much I stiff I made the car it was still very bouncy.

blinkngone
14-06-2018, 10:31
I mostlikely will. Along with the Porsche’s since I love Porsche hence the avatar lol.

Edit
The thing that gets me the worst is the boost. Next time im gonna lower the boost by 10 see how I do.

The Group 5 935’s I have the same issues with in reference to boost. And the pogo term you made reference too I notice a lot with the Porsche’s. The last time I used them which was a few months ago, it seemed no matter how much I stiff I made the car it was still very bouncy.

I stiffened up the front springs on the Datsun, it still buries about an inch of the splitter in the asphalt which isn't possible. Instead the splitter/air dam hitting the ground hard on corners would cause the suspension to lift the body up at that corner of the car which isn't good either. This isn't even a bad track for this, Sonoma is worse especially at the uphill just after the start/finish. Or the Willow Springs Horse Thief Mile among others.
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blinkngone
15-06-2018, 00:18
Hi, I asked cpcdem to make run for us with the Datsun and he ran a 0:53.941 so we have a long way to go.

cpcdem
15-06-2018, 00:45
Hi, I asked cpcdem to make run for us with the Datsun and he ran a 0:53.941 so we have a long way to go.

I was initially having the same problems that you mentioned though, could not keep the car in control at all during braking and I ended up increasing the brake bias a lot, to 67-33 and then I could finally push. Without that, I could not complete a single lap!

67-33 was the sweet spot for me, less than that and I was still losing the rear under braking, with more I could not steer at all under braking.

blinkngone
15-06-2018, 18:49
I was initially having the same problems that you mentioned though, could not keep the car in control at all during braking and I ended up increasing the brake bias a lot, to 67-33 and then I could finally push. Without that, I could not complete a single lap!

67-33 was the sweet spot for me, less than that and I was still losing the rear under braking, with more I could not steer at all under braking.

Ok, I ran a 0:53.978 +0:00.037, I can't run the bias at 67, perhaps it might have something to do with my broken brake pedal but I need bias at 57 to get the corner entry. Also I do better on the out lap, if I try and run more laps I get the wild colors on the left front where it is flashing the three bands, Green outside, light Green middle and Yellow inside very colorful and by the end of 2nd lap I am into the Orange across the 3 bands. Plus I don't do very well physically running laps. I tried to reduce the exaggerated body contortions rmb24 noticed. It seems the car responds better with the soft springs and instead work on the Bumps and go for the Bump transitions, I remember Casey said you can apply quite a bit more force with the new Bump transitions so I increased these as well on the front and that seemed to calm down the way the car appears to shift around on throttle and brakes. I'm still only using the boost at 70%.