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Thread: The big 'Show your own race rig/setup' topic

  1. #81
    Kart Driver CustomInternals's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timmynator View Post
    Try offsetting your clutch pedal to the left, i.e. use the right most (when viewed from the front of the pedalface) screw hole on the pedalface. That should give you more room to hit the brake without hitting the clutch as well.
    On my next days off I was planning on adjusting them. Right now I have it set up where the clutch and gas are the same distance from the edges of the base and the brake it closer to the gas pedal. I thought it would help with learning how to heel-toe. It has helped me with trying to learn left foot braking though. I still am going to adjust it but I think I'm going to push both side pedals farther out then move the brake over to the left slightly. It still should be close enough to the throttle to be able to heel-toe. I was also going to angle the rear of the pedal plate up because of how low the seat is compared to a normal car.
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  2. #82
    Superkart Pilot
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    Wow incredible. I wish I had some of those!!.

    One serious question. Will all those features actually improve lap time?

  3. #83
    WMD Member Photonenbert's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeyD02 View Post
    Wow incredible. I wish I had some of those!!.

    One serious question. Will all those features actually improve lap time?
    hard to say. if your office chair always moves back while braking then yes, probably.

    with a dedicated rig you are just more confident as your seating position never changes even 1mm. but if you have a fixed office setup and quite a good seat position I would say it doesnt make you that much better.

    most important things are monitor placement as well.

    as close to your face/wheel as possible to get the most out of if.

    using correct FOV (often a problem!). so you need the perfect immersion and if you get the in game seatin position right as well it can changes the way you look into corners and how much of the track you can actually see.

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  4. #84
    WMD Member Photonenbert's Avatar
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    Photonenberts G25 METAL MOD

    Its WIP currently (well its always WIP I guess )


    Click image for larger version. 

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    yesterday I finished my G25 METAL MOD. Works perfectly! And will last longer than the plastic housing was meant to last hopefully
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I drilled some extra holes into the metal plate that holds the motors so I could mount the bearing shell. Its used in kart racing for the rear axle and works great for this. although it was kinda rough to put in the bearing into the shell as the shell got a crack but exactly where it should. there is a screw that tightens the pressure onto the bearing so you can just tighten that and its all good.

    the plastic spacers are 30mm and didnt need further adjusting. If you cut piping yourself then it wont probably be exactly 30.0mm so I wanted to buy those instead of cutting them myself. just to make sure the bearing fits perfectly straight onto the plate. But as it turned out, the bearing I also bought on the carting page is rounded on the outside.
    so it can "turn" quite a bit inside the bearing shell if you havent tighten it already.
    this compensates for slighty angled shells or if those spacers dont match measurements. so all good
    Click image for larger version. 

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    2 holes just on top of the motors. there is very little space but with M4 screws it works fine.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    only plastic is the steering column itself which will hold forever since its a tubing and the spacers that dont have to hold much force as the column turns inside the bearing and is very very smooth. There is no additional resistance to the way it felt before the mod ! therefore Im very pleased with it. Couldnt feel any difference.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    on the bottom you can clearly see the crack and also that there is a screw to hold it together from left to right.
    you can also see that the bearing has tubing sticking out further. as it turned out, the front steering tubing that holds the wheel fits so perfectly onto the steering column even with the bearing sticking out that it felt like it was just made for this.
    lucky me again
    I also had to drill 2 new holes into the bearing shell so that the screws would fit through.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Photonenbert; 15-07-2015 at 13:24.

    Founder Member of Revolution Sim Racing - Forum Thread - Website

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    G25/G27 Setup Guide

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    poirqc's "Baseline FFB values - Linear FFB Google sheet" guide

    G25 Unbreakable Metal Mod # # # G25 Button Wheel Plate # # # G25 NIXIM Brake Pedal Mod

    System: Windwos 7 64 Bit //MSI K9N2 SLI Platinum MS-7374 V3.9// AMD X4 II 955 BE 3.2 GHz //GeForce 750 TI (Thanks Pam!)// 8 GB RAM // Samsung SyncMaster 24" + 19" Dual
    Games: Project C.A.R.S // Live for Speed // DiRT Rally // Richard Burns Rally (2013 RSRBR) // Scania Truck Simulator // Spin Tires

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  5. #85
    WMD Member Timmynator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeyD02 View Post
    Wow incredible. I wish I had some of those!!.

    One serious question. Will all those features actually improve lap time?
    As Photonenbert says, it depends. Coming from an office swivel chair/pedals on the floor/wheel clamped to table to a proper seat-with-pedals-and-wheelstand-rig, I can't tell you whether my lap times are better but what I can tell you is that you don't have to worry about anything shifting or moving if you use a little more force than usual. That makes you more confident and gives you a more consistent environment where you can devote more time to thinking about your race instead of having to worry about "how hard can I press the brake before either the pedals or my chair start moving?".

    Plus it just looks cool having a rig with a racing-style seat in front of triples
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  6. #86
    Kart Driver CustomInternals's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeyD02 View Post
    Wow incredible. I wish I had some of those!!.

    One serious question. Will all those features actually improve lap time?
    Experience is the biggest factor obviously but I will say that certain things from my new setup have helped me be more consistent. I couldn't drive without ABS with the pedals that came with the DFGT but once I upgraded to the CSR Elite pedals, that have a load cell, I can comfortably play w/o ABS. I won't say it will cure locking up 100% but the load cell makes all the difference for me.

    I also noticed that the more time I've put in with the Fanatec V2 wheelbase the better I've got with being more fluid with entering and exiting a corner. I think it has to do more with the amount of deadzone I was having with the DFGT and it's gear driven system vs. the belt driven system of the V2. Overall it just feels smoother with the steering and it's responsiveness. I'm not bashing gear driven systems or saying belt is that much better but the DFGT I was using seemed to have "slack" when it came to changing direction.

    You probably won't improve your lap times right at first when upgrading because you're going to first have to put in some time getting use to the new equipment. I think it also comes down to what you've upgraded from and what your upgrading to. I've only used the DFGT and my current setup so I can't say there's going to be a huge advantage if your coming from a G27 to say a T500 or Fanatec V2. Hopefully someone who's used a wider range of setups can chime in on this.
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  7. #87
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    I'm in the process of turning my old work car into a simulator.https://youtu.be/4Ev7cg601MI

    As of now I just have the wheel tied to the real steering wheel.
    The plan is to make a bracket and take the wheel off so I can mount it lower in a more natural position. The tilt wheel is cool with the computer steering wheel. :-)*

    The pedals are just sitting on the floor (the ones that came with the wheel and a set of aviation pedals that I'm using for a clutch).
    The plan there is to reuse the real pedals and hydraulic system, add a clutch, and tie it to the computer.

    I need to buy/make an h-shifter and possibly replace the bench seat with a bucket seat to make room for the shifter.

    I used an old atx power supply to get 12v without a battery and reinstalled the CD player for auxiliary input to run the audio and also rewired the dome lights. I had to just hookup the front dome lights because the power supply isn't big enough for the whole circuit and the CD player. I intend to repower the whole interior light circuit though.
    The speakers are some 4" infinity Kappa 3-ways in front and some Walmart 6x9s in the back. I didn't have the CD player hooked up in the video, that was a Bluetooth speaker.

    I would like to get a couple transducers for the seat and maybe for other places. Haven't looked into a price for those yet so I don't know if that will happen.

    I also want to remove the wheels and make brackets for some heavy duty casters that can go over grass, which would be necessary before redoing the pedal setup.

    I also added a 9" fan to keep it comfortable.

    Thank You, hope you enjoy.
    Last edited by CaddyGuy; 21-06-2015 at 04:15.

  8. #88
    WMD Member Photonenbert's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaddyGuy View Post
    I'm in the process of turning my old work car into a simulator.https://youtu.be/4Ev7cg601MI

    As of now I just have the wheel tied to the real steering wheel.
    The plan is to make a bracket and take the wheel off so I can mount it lower in a more natural position. The tilt wheel is cool with the computer steering wheel. :-)*

    The pedals are just sitting on the floor (the ones that came with the wheel and a set of aviation pedals that I'm using for a clutch).
    The plan there is to reuse the real pedals and hydraulic system, add a clutch, and tie it to the computer.

    I need to buy/make an h-shifter and possibly replace the bench seat with a bucket seat to make room for the shifter.

    I used an old atx power supply to get 12v without a battery and reinstalled the CD player for auxiliary input to run the audio and also rewired the dome lights. I had to just hookup the front dome lights because the power supply isn't big enough for the whole circuit and the CD player. I intend to repower the whole interior light circuit though.
    The speakers are some 4" infinity Kappa 3-ways in front and some Walmart 6x9s in the back. I didn't have the CD player hooked up in the video, that was a Bluetooth speaker.

    I would like to get a couple transducers for the seat and maybe for other places. Haven't looked into a price for those yet so I don't know if that will happen.

    I also want to remove the wheels and make brackets for some heavy duty casters that can go over grass, which would be necessary before redoing the pedal setup.

    I also added a 9" fan to keep it comfortable.

    Thank You, hope you enjoy.
    sounds like a huge project. cant wait for some pics

    Founder Member of Revolution Sim Racing - Forum Thread - Website

    Photonenbert's Youtube Channel


    G25/G27 Setup Guide

    Jack Spades Tweaker Files


    poirqc's "Baseline FFB values - Linear FFB Google sheet" guide

    G25 Unbreakable Metal Mod # # # G25 Button Wheel Plate # # # G25 NIXIM Brake Pedal Mod

    System: Windwos 7 64 Bit //MSI K9N2 SLI Platinum MS-7374 V3.9// AMD X4 II 955 BE 3.2 GHz //GeForce 750 TI (Thanks Pam!)// 8 GB RAM // Samsung SyncMaster 24" + 19" Dual
    Games: Project C.A.R.S // Live for Speed // DiRT Rally // Richard Burns Rally (2013 RSRBR) // Scania Truck Simulator // Spin Tires

    "Be the change you want to see in the world" - Ghandi

  9. #89
    Kart Driver
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    Big Accident Last Night!

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    Ha Ha, not really Just fitting my new T3PA-PRO pedals, which are great after a quick go last night.

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  10. #90
    Superkart Pilot
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    Nearly finished, pro pedals coming this week, and leather gte wheel, then its a transducer. Click image for larger version. 

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    Nowhere near as epic as some of the setups here though, well impressed
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