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Thread: [G25-G27] - Wheel Setup Guide

  1. #21
    WMD Member Photonenbert's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JamoZ View Post
    Well, some tire scrubbing when experiencing understeer would be nice. But overall i mean more like in RF2. You can feel the wheels really scrubbing over the track hanging on and searching for grip, even on my g25 So i guess it isn`t the hardware :P
    simulation games differ in terms of "how many stuff is going through your wheel"

    so for instance engine vibration or chassis vibration or gear shifting or gear grinding..... those things are not really felt through the wheel. they are felt through the seat. but for that, you need either a motion sim or you need buttkicker. Buttkicker have a very big list of effects for project cars and also other sims that can be set up to a certain part of your rig. for instance if you put 2 butkickers on you seat and drive a rear wheel drive car you can get heavy engine feedback through thos bad boys. or if you put it on your shifter, you get a "hit" every time you shift up. lots of stuff.

    but a real life wheel doesnt give you all this feedback, the whole of the car gives itto you.

    the wheel is only one part of ForceFeedback if you want to put it like that. and some sims put more stuff into the wheel than there actually is which can lead to wrong impressions.

    and the advantage of project cars is the tire model. this is where stuff happens.
    Last edited by Photonenbert; 08-05-2015 at 12:46.

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  2. #22
    WMD Member JamoZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Photonenbert View Post
    simulation games differ in terms of "how many stuff is going through your wheel"

    so for instance engine vibration or chassis vibration or gear shifting or gear grindin. those things are not really felt through the wheel. they are felt through the seat. but for that, you need either a motion sim or you need buttkicker. Buttkicker have a very big list of effects for project cars and also other sims that can be set up to a certain part of your rig. for instance if you put 2 butkickers on you seat and drive a rear wheel drive car you can get heavy engine feedback through thos boad boys. or if you put it on your shifter, you get a "hit" every time you shift up. lots of stuff.

    but a real life wheel doesnt give you all those feelings, the whole of the car gives them to you, the wheel is only one part of ForceFeedback if you want to put it like that. and some sims put more stuff into the wheel than there actually is which can lead to wrong impressions.
    Well, since i`m sitting in a chair behind a computer screen playing a game with a plastic wheel i need as much info as possible of what the car is doing
    CPU : i7 3770K @ 4.5 Ghz Motherboard : Asus Sabretooth Z77 PSU : Seasonic X-1050 Video Cards : GTX1080 RAM : 16GB Corsair Vengance DDR3 OS : Windows 10 64bit Controllers : Logitech G25 + Fanatec Club Sport Pedals V2 Displays : 3x LG 24`s & LG G2 with Dashmeter pro Audio : Creative X-FI fatality , Roccat Cave 5.1 headset

    Yeah, well, you know, that's just, like, your opinion, man.
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  3. #23
    WMD Member t0daY's Avatar
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    Nice work mate I leave you 12 hours alone, and suddenly there is the ultimate g25/g27 guide on the forum :O <3
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  4. #24
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    Many thanks to Photonenbert for starting this thread. Ever since the game launched yesterday, I've been navigating countless forums to find the perfect solution to FFB for my G27. Needless to say, there is no magic answer. However, I would like to share my method of achieving the right settings in hopes of helping others in return. I will use the 125cc Kart as an example.

    WHEEL: Logitech G27
    CAR: 125cc Kart


    Logitech Profiler:

    This takes into account the following standard settings:

    - Use special FFB settings: enabled
    - Overall effects strength: 100%
    - Spring effect strength: 0%
    - Damper effect strength: 0%
    - Centering spring strength: 0% (disabled)
    - Use special steering wheel settings: enabled
    - Report combined pedals: disabled
    - Degrees of rotation: 900
    - Use special game settings: enabled
    - Allow game to adjust settings: enabled


    In-game controls options:

    Wheel calibration:
    Maximum rotation ==> a value of 100 should be achieved when fully rotating wheel
    Steering lock ==> a value of 900 should be achieved, should correspond to an angle of 90

    Configuration menu:
    ForceFeedback ==> 100 (we want the maximum feeling)
    If Speed Sensitivity, Controller Filtering Sensitivity and Damper Saturation are not at zero, set them at zero

    Force feedback calibration menu:
    Tire Force ==> 100 (great general default for all cars)
    Deadzone Removal Range ==> 0.18 (as mentioned, the G27 has an 18% "looseness" or deadzone by default)

    The rest should remain as defaults.
    If Soft Clippings are not at zero, set them at zero.


    Per-car Tuning Setup - Force Feedback:

    ***MAKE SURE ALL SMOOTHING IS AT ZERO***

    Spindle Master Scale ==> 36
    *26 being default with Fx, Fy, Fz and Mz all at 100
    **I chose that number because it came up often in multiple forum threads. It seems to offer great feedback, but without being too violent.
    ***Remember that once your Fx, Fy and Fz are tweaked, you can always increase or decrease this value slightly for that perfect feeling.

    Once that is done, my way of proceeding is to set Fx, Fy and Fz at their lowest value, then start by tweaking Fx and testing it out on the track.

    Fx ==> 18.01
    *This number coincides with the 18% Deadzone Removal Range (Pure coincidence? Maybe...).
    **High values tend to violently shake the steering wheel when accelerating, braking and turning. So I increase it until the jittering is barely noticeable.
    ***This value translates speeding and braking forces, something I particularly don't see as most important. As mentioned, too high and wheel shaking becomes uncontrollable.

    Once your Fx is set, keep that value and proceed to Fy.

    Fy ==> 58.00
    *This value is easy enough to figure out. It plays a lot on the amount of tension in the wheel when turning.
    **Find a good balance between breaking your arms and not feeling when you're losing controls.
    ***The value chosen is my preference for the 125cc Kart. Yours might be different.

    Once the Fy is set, keep the value and proceed to Fz.

    Fz ==> 100.01
    *This one is fun. It translates tire contact with the road. You should be feeling the wheel shake when losing contact and coming back down, hitting bumps and curbs.
    **This is purely set to one's preference. Higher than 100, I find I lose control of the wheel when rolling on curbs due to the amount of feedback received.
    ***If you really want to feel the road speak to you, increase it to your liking.


    Don't forget to save the settings to all circuits. It will save you some headaches later when tweaking the vehicle for each circuit.

    Cheers!
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    The following 5 users likes this Post: blot, Kobus Maree, TheIronWolf, yusupov


  5. #25
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    those look like potentially great settings, def very interesting! ive got vertical load at 100 too. i do think the other forces could be lighter (with higher master spindle #) to feel more detail tho...those look promising! thanks alot for sharing
    Thrustmaster TX/CSR Elites/TH8a Shifter
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  6. #26
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    and btw i agree, rf2 is FFB king...its amazing, i feel like i have spidey senses when i use that sim and its all just thru my little g27. its gold standard stuff, i dont expect anyone to match it. but its worth trying!
    Thrustmaster TX/CSR Elites/TH8a Shifter
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  7. #27
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    so guys, @jamoz's DUMBtweak (as i am now calling it, we can make up what dumb stands for later if it stays this simple..or not) is a definite go for me.

    i cant launch without the logitech profiler but (i think) placebo effect kicked in for me. i was trying to think what the difference could be if it was on or off, & i remembered that center spring isnt checked by defaul in the global profile. so i uncheck that, randomly pick the huayra, set master to 52 (simply doubling the default # of 26), remove x-axis smoothing, & it feels...well, as he described, quite a bit like assetto corsa. it def wasnt too heavy, it felt about right. i could tell i wasnt clipping, confirmed this w/ the meter to be sure.

    but its missing the one crucial thing that makes AC ffb special to me -- (i rate it second along w/ SCE to rf2, despite it not having the detail (imo) of either) -- the feeling of inertia, momentum, weight transfer that seems to slide thru the wheel. but, i think i know (in theory) how that might be achieved here -- the SoP settings suggest they might be able to send this behavior to the wheel.

    i saw a thread earlier where someone had posted he thinks these are pretty crucial to his ffb tweaks, but i cant find it now -- was on here or RD. i tried throwing up some random #s but they just made the ffb stiffer/deader, not at all what im looking for...

    so, for me at least, more cause for optimism.

    even if you dont like AC ffb, still give this a try if youre not satisfied atm -- its just too easy not to.

    all you have to do:

    -default everything FFB-wise
    -setup logitech profiler as normal (experiment w/ running without) -- mine is 100/0/0, spring unchecked (dont think this is important, but if checked, be sure to put at 0), 900 degrees, allow game to adjust settings.
    -pick a car & track
    -in the setup screen, under force feedback, just double the number -- 52. again, this # is random atm, & it should probably vary, ideally, from car to car, & perhaps track to track as well
    -(optional) remove the 10% smoothing on the x-axis. im not sure why this is there, or if its positive bc ive never intentionally used it tbh, im also not sure, if you have damper @ 0% in the profiler as i do, its needed to do this to remove the effect.

    so thats it. whats changed is your raw surface feel (bumps, curbs, etc) has gone from non-existent to what i would rate as very good, & in theory anyway, the effect of lateral & longitudinal forces are now twice as strong, without clipping. all of that (to me anyway) is good stuff.

    so: if you use a logitech wheel (maybe any wheel?) and one of your complaints has to do w/ road surface (since i see this a lot), this is the simplest, fastest, dumbest way to get it -- and, to my knowledge anyway, youre still feeling all the other forces intended -- just even better.
    Thrustmaster TX/CSR Elites/TH8a Shifter
    980OC/5820k@4.5/8GB DDR4@2400(stock)/WINDOWS 10
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  8. #28
    WMD Member JamoZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yusupov View Post
    so guys, @jamoz's DUMBtweak (as i am now calling it, we can make up what dumb stands for later if it stays this simple..or not) is a definite go for me.

    i cant launch without the logitech profiler but (i think) placebo effect kicked in for me. i was trying to think what the difference could be if it was on or off, & i remembered that center spring isnt checked by defaul in the global profile. so i uncheck that, randomly pick the huayra, set master to 52 (simply doubling the default # of 26), remove x-axis smoothing, & it feels...well, as he described, quite a bit like assetto corsa. it def wasnt too heavy, it felt about right. i could tell i wasnt clipping, confirmed this w/ the meter to be sure.

    but its missing the one crucial thing that makes AC ffb special to me -- (i rate it second along w/ SCE to rf2, despite it not having the detail (imo) of either) -- the feeling of inertia, momentum, weight transfer that seems to slide thru the wheel. but, i think i know (in theory) how that might be achieved here -- the SoP settings suggest they might be able to send this behavior to the wheel.

    i saw a thread earlier where someone had posted he thinks these are pretty crucial to his ffb tweaks, but i cant find it now -- was on here or RD. i tried throwing up some random #s but they just made the ffb stiffer/deader, not at all what im looking for...

    so, for me at least, more cause for optimism.

    even if you dont like AC ffb, still give this a try if youre not satisfied atm -- its just too easy not to.

    all you have to do:

    -default everything FFB-wise
    -setup logitech profiler as normal (experiment w/ running without) -- mine is 100/0/0, spring unchecked (dont think this is important, but if checked, be sure to put at 0), 900 degrees, allow game to adjust settings.
    -pick a car & track
    -in the setup screen, under force feedback, just double the number -- 52. again, this # is random atm, & it should probably vary, ideally, from car to car, & perhaps track to track as well
    -(optional) remove the 10% smoothing on the x-axis. im not sure why this is there, or if its positive bc ive never intentionally used it tbh, im also not sure, if you have damper @ 0% in the profiler as i do, its needed to do this to remove the effect.

    so thats it. whats changed is your raw surface feel (bumps, curbs, etc) has gone from non-existent to what i would rate as very good, & in theory anyway, the effect of lateral & longitudinal forces are now twice as strong, without clipping. all of that (to me anyway) is good stuff.

    so: if you use a logitech wheel (maybe any wheel?) and one of your complaints has to do w/ road surface (since i see this a lot), this is the simplest, fastest, dumbest way to get it -- and, to my knowledge anyway, youre still feeling all the other forces intended -- just even better.
    I`d go with the DUMBtweak as it`s rather dumb of me not to think of trying this any sooner . I know it might now work for everyone, but i`ve tried disabling the Logitech Profiler completely on 3 systems (2 x g25 & 1x g27) and the results were similar.

    -More Inertia coming trough wheel
    -More feeling loading up the front wheels during braking
    -Less spring driven FFB
    -Light FFB in the center which loads up nicely entering a corner ( similar to AC )

    I`m still searching for a way to get any feeling from the front tires under locking up or understeering, but there definitely is a improvement for me NOT using the Logitech Control panel.
    Last edited by JamoZ; 09-05-2015 at 07:58.
    CPU : i7 3770K @ 4.5 Ghz Motherboard : Asus Sabretooth Z77 PSU : Seasonic X-1050 Video Cards : GTX1080 RAM : 16GB Corsair Vengance DDR3 OS : Windows 10 64bit Controllers : Logitech G25 + Fanatec Club Sport Pedals V2 Displays : 3x LG 24`s & LG G2 with Dashmeter pro Audio : Creative X-FI fatality , Roccat Cave 5.1 headset

    Yeah, well, you know, that's just, like, your opinion, man.
    The following user likes this Post: yusupov


  9. #29
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    Looking good, tire force 110 gives me just a little more feeling the low curbs. For the rest same as you posted for now.
    Mobo: Asus .... | CPU: Intel Core i7 2600K @3,40 GHz | Memory: 8GB DDR3 | HDD: Samsung 840 EVO 250 GB Graphics: AMD Radeon R9 200 Series 4 GB | Display: 27" IIyama ProLite B2780HSU | Power Supply: .... W | Sound: Onboard |
    Wheel: Thrustmaster TX Servo Base with Leather 28GT Wheel Add-On and T3PA pedals | Keyboard: Logitech G110 | Mouse: Steelseries Sensei | Operating System: Windows 10 64 bit

  10. #30
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    First time wheel user here. So I made all the adjustments just like OP said, and took a 125cc kart for a drive. Never driven a kart IRL, but handling really feels inconsistent -- way too much centering force, for example. Can be shown by this: take a kart, stop it and turn your wheels all the way to, say, right. Kick in 1st gear and start to accelerate slowly -- suddenly your steerin wheel would be thrown all the way to the left (not just centered), and then back, until it's centered eventually. What am I doing wrong?
    Although took an Evo X for a ride at Nordschleife. Steering feels like this car has no power steering at all. O.o Took my Impreza (not a sportcar, I know, but still) to an empty lot and tried some sharp turns at 70-80 kmh -- it was easier to do IRL than in pCARS!
    Using Logitech G27 here.
    OT: and if someone could give me some advice for setting steering/FFB at Shift 2 -- I'd be very very happy.

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