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Thread: Tuning for first timers my basic guide

  1. #1
    Kart Driver
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    Tuning for first timers my basic guide

    Hi guys first off i have had the game roughly a week or two now i come from forza MS4 where i was generally in the top 100 sometimes 50 in the world on most tracks for R2 class so i have a basic to reasonable understanding of console sim racers in forza i was apart of a team who had a tuning pro so i never had to dip my toes in the tuning water so to speak, but with this game you have too.

    So first off, best thing to do is familiarize yourself with a handful of tracks maybe between 5 and 10 with default setups just really to get a basic understanding of the track, choose 1 class and maybe 2 or 3 cars from each class to play with, dependent on experience with sim racers, this may take a day or a week.

    For myself i am taking my time only really altering a few settings and so far it has worked for me i do well in MP and as i get better i will look to editing and understanding a few more different settings

    so settings i customize are

    Tire Pressures i generally run a lower tire pressure than default because i prefer the added oversteer helps with cornering maintaining good grip when turning in under heavy breaking. always lower on the front than rear in gt3 class

    break balance for Rear engine mounted cars you want more break balance towards the front of the car, this for me has aided in maintaining good control under heavy breaking as the car is considerably heavier at the rear you want more breaking power at the front.

    front/rear downforce i dont have the greatest understanding of this, but on GP tracks, catalunya, nurburgring for exapmle i run with both front and rear downforce set all the way to cornering. adding this plus break balance and lower tire pressure i find cornering a dream on these tracks. for faster tracks i opt for lower downforce but maintain a higher downforce on the rear as this keeps the car stable on higher speed corners

    sway bars with these i tend to aim more for soft than stiff because i prefer to have more oversteer than understeer a softer front and rear setup here will allow for better control through the corner particularly on a track like leguna seca for example, if your running a faster track stiffen them but not too much otherwise you may find yourself spinning out when hitting the apex to hard or missing it completely with loads of understeer.

    Ride height i tend to run this a couple notches lower than default lower ride height the better control you have over your car, for GP circuits you definitely want to be running a lower ride height bumpier circuits i knock it up 1 or 2 mm above default

    final gear ratio short windy tracks for example leguna seca run final gear ratio all the way to acceleration as you dont need the higher end top speed again this really helps with corner exiting, long straight high speed corners, you want to jam that bar all the way to speed, any track where you find yourself redlining as in reaching your cars max speed way before the end of a long straight, you need to push the final gear ratio more towards speed

    fuel, the less fuel you can get away with the better simple as that really


    so not very scientific and i am sure i am doing things that would be deemed wrong, by others, but this has helped me an awful lot and as i eventually hit the wall and can no longer go any faster i will then look at other settings but quite frankly all the other settings scare me right now !

    if any pros want to correct any info i have put in here or maybe give me a tip or two that would be much appreciated.
    The following 2 users likes this Post: hagar147, rubinhopedechinelo


  2. #2
    Superkart Pilot
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    Its realistically too complicated, but still fun. Re: tuning grind

  3. #3
    LMP2 Pilot hkraft300's Avatar
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    For a rear heavy car I'd keep brake bias towards the back but forward enough that the rear doesn't swing around on the brakes. That way you get maximum effective braking but not have the fronts too cooked for good turn-in response. Personal preference I like to brake hard and late

    Ps about 60% front bias give or take
    G29 FFB RAW 100-40-5-10

  4. #4
    Kart Driver Gpruitt54's Avatar
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    Maybe it is because lots of us don't understand how to setup a race, but most races don't setup practice sessions. Some only setup Qual sessions. Not nearly enough time to setup a car and Qual at the same time. Is there a way to save setup in a list to be selected and applied per car and track?

  5. #5
    Superkart Pilot
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    Quote Originally Posted by hkraft300 View Post
    For a rear heavy car I'd keep brake bias towards the back but forward enough that the rear doesn't swing around on the brakes. That way you get maximum effective braking but not have the fronts too cooked for good turn-in response. Personal preference I like to brake hard and late

    Ps about 60% front bias give or take
    Thats all good and dandy, but what if the car has massive rear brakes that snatch as they come up to temperature! Ok for a high rear down force setup and the front tyres keep cooking.Theres plenty of brake monsters in the game I've found. You said 60% thats very good advice, some of mine have 49% and work fine the diff can stabalise rear locking quite a bit, its early days. They all need a good seeing to lol
    Last edited by MULTIVITZ; 31-05-2015 at 10:38.

  6. #6
    LMP2 Pilot hkraft300's Avatar
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    if the rear brakes grab at temp and start locking the rears/ rotating the car a little too much on turn-in: increase front bias! or have a play with diff decel. not a hard fix. diff adjustment feels more subtle to me. so its better for fine tuning when you have dialed brake bias down to within 2-3% of your liking. depends on car/track/driving style.

    relevant to this thread: I recommend you dial in brake bias, then play with diff decel, then go back and forth and balance the two to your liking.

    I'm between 58-62 in F1 and LMP1 cars. Lotus 98T I can run 50 but push it forward to get some heat in the front tires quicker. with big aero cars (F1, LMP1, 98T) I usually run more wing at the front or at least equal.

    my setups change with development time - development of my own driving technique, learning better lines at a track, learning the car and exploiting it better which then translates to improved tunes.

    just last night at Brno I was testing the Lotus and started getting a little cheeky rotating the car on the brakes a little and balancing the gas with the arse out a few degrees...
    G29 FFB RAW 100-40-5-10

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