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Thread: 1.4 FFB T300 Ps4

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by LordDRIFT View Post
    I'm using the PS4 licensed wheel. It never faded during the first 2 weeks of ownership but it started recently and gradually getting worse. It first started on the 80s formula car - the massive forces here may be a contributing factor but since then on every other car I've had fading.

    I have a post patch profile that still fades with the ffb at 100 and the Jack Spades tweakers. Im not surprised folks using the tweakers are finding the wheel not suitable - obviously the params driving the engine has changed so tweaks will be skewed. The PC boys are really hurting though and that makes sense since im pretty sure the tweaks are optimized for PC. That's maybe why PS4 owners are having a lesser degree of issues using the tweaks post patch. I have started a new profile and using 100 tf/75 FFb, deadzones at zero. I have ZERO fading.

    I've had success across a few cars using the following in car settings.


    spindle
    master - 34
    fx - 70
    fy - 30 (based on cars I've tested if the steering feels too light I've gone up to as far as 40 (zakspeed ford), but I keep 30 as the baseline and adjust based on steering feel)
    fz - 120
    mz - 100


    SOP

    Sop scale - 30
    Lat - 80
    Diff - 80


    All other in car ffb settings default.

    Still experimenting based on the next car career mode throws me, but these baselines have worked quite nicely.

    Some gave a suggestion I read that has got me on my way of understanding the setting. if you zero all setting and drive one setting at a time on min-mid-max you will understand what they do.

    Lastly FFB does affect how the car handles (or how you handle the car) but it is also very subjective you will come to realize this once you figure out the settings.

    PS. Escuse punctuation and grammar - did this on the mobile.
    Only tested this with one car (SP/300R) on one track. On first try, i improved my lap time by 2 seconds! great stuff, nice feel.
    I also only play with the fy setting to balance wheel weight depending on car.
    One problem i still have, I hardly feel the back end loosing grip like i used to. Dont know if this is a patch 1.4 issue, or car. Will keep testing.

  2. #22
    Superkart Pilot LordDRIFT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by amitlr View Post
    Only tested this with one car (SP/300R) on one track. On first try, i improved my lap time by 2 seconds! great stuff, nice feel.
    I also only play with the fy setting to balance wheel weight depending on car.
    One problem i still have, I hardly feel the back end loosing grip like i used to. Dont know if this is a patch 1.4 issue, or car. Will keep testing.
    Glad you like it. Increasing the sop settings will give more feel from back but that center spring effect also increases with it. I don't like that feel mid corner (feels like it's counter steering for me) so I had to compromise. Hopefully when they sort the spring issue we can get a more pure feeling that the PC guys rave about. It seems as well that certain fforces serve to cancel each other out so you will have to compromise somewhere. I tune to empathize steering and road feel. Then rear feel then braking. The latter two are downplayed in favor of the former. I'm pretty sure there is more performance to be had bit I'm still learning. The ffb calibration menu I'm clueless about instance
    Last edited by LordDRIFT; 16-06-2015 at 20:25.

  3. #23
    Superkart Pilot LordDRIFT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wyldanimal View Post
    Tonight I had some time to tweak the FFB a bit after the 1.4 patch.

    Using the BMW Z4 on Watkins Glen, no ABS, Traction or Stability when tuning

    I created a series of Videos, each one, the Wheel Strength gets Progressively Stronger and Stronger.
    I Start with a light Feeling Wheel that has every subtle feeling that you see in the FFB monitor Graph, if you See it, you can feel it.

    As the Wheel Strength gets stronger, some of the Subtle Feelings get lost.
    The last video, I end with a Medium Wheel Weight, with Good Subtle Feeling.
    it's the One I'd use.

    Here's the base numbers I start with
    General FFB 75 Tire Force 100
    Most of the Wheel Strength is done By Adjusting These:
    Rel Adj Gain 0.52, Rel Adj Bleed 1.25, Rel Adj Clamp 0.46,

    Scoop knee 0.80, Scoop Reduction 0.15

    once you Find a Wheel Weight you Like, then for Each Car on Each track
    Tweak these.

    Spindle Master Scale 90
    Fx 40, Fy 10, Fz 100, Mz 50, Fy Smooth 10, Mz Smooth 10
    Arm 2800 or 2/3rds Max

    SoP Scale 70, SoP Lat 60, SoP Diff 70



    From Light to Very Strong Wheel Weight.

    Rel Adj Gain 0.52, Rel Adj Bleed 1.25, Rel Adj Clamp 0.46,
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4JNJOA2iX4M


    Rel Adj Gain 0.57, Rel Adj Bleed 0.75, Rel Adj Clamp 0.51,
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lSpHANs37nk

    Rel Adj Gain 0.72, Rel Adj Bleed 0.60, Rel Adj Clamp 0.66,
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=un6KXavAo04


    Rel Adj Gain 0.92, Rel Adj Bleed 0.35, Rel Adj Clamp 0.86,
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Igu-Qm5ens0


    Rel Adj Gain 1.02, Rel Adj Bleed 0.15, Rel Adj Clamp 0.96,
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DtUj7hs786g


    Rel Adj Gain 1.07, Rel Adj Bleed 0.10, Rel Adj Clamp 1.0,
    Scoop knee 0.70, Scoop Reduction 0.10
    FFB 90 Tire Force 90
    Master 70 SoP 50
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Yo_WWKHpm0


    Rel Adj Gain 1.07, Rel Adj Bleed 0, Rel Adj Clamp 1.0,
    Scoop knee 0.70, Scoop Reduction 0
    FFB 100 Tire Force 100
    Master 80 SoP 50
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLk_rnbKOMk


    This is the One I'd Use. A good Medium Wheel Weight.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Kq4ASf-Hss
    FFB = 75 Tire Force =100
    Rel Gain = .82 Bleed = .65 Clamp = .76
    Scoop Knee = .80 Scoop reduction = .15
    SP Master = 90
    Fx 40, Fy 10, Fz 100, Mz 50, Fy Smooth 10, Mz Smooth 10, Arm 2800
    SoP Scale 60, Sop Lat 60, Sop Diff 70
    Can you explain what the rel adjust settings do in plain English? Much harder to experiment with these for obvious reasons.

  4. #24
    WMD Member wyldanimal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LordDRIFT View Post
    Can you explain what the rel adjust settings do in plain English? Much harder to experiment with these for obvious reasons.
    What I've found by Experimenting..
    Rel Adj Gain - the FFB signal will be boosted up to this max setting..
    Rel Bleed, is a time based setting, How Fast the Strength of the Signal goes away
    Rel Clamp, as the Gain Rises and Falls, the Clamp holds the strength at that level until it bleeds off.

    That's just what I've figured them to be from experimentation.

    So if you set higher Gain, and Clamp, the Wheel builds strength faster.
    with a small bleed value, it dissipates quick.

    The Higher the Gain and Clam, the Stronger / Heavier the wheel gets.
    [PS4 Pro user] [Fanatec CSLE-PS4] [ClubSport V3 Pedals] [TH8A Shifter with Ricmotech Short Throw Plate] [Collectiveminds Drive Hub]
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  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by LordDRIFT View Post
    Can you explain what the rel adjust settings do in plain English? Much harder to experiment with these for obvious reasons.
    Tried these settings as well. Just before i tried yours.
    It was ...different. I felt the wheel was way too light for me (used the suggested last setting), but on the other hand, it emphasized so many little things like a magnifying glass .
    Bumps, brakes, locked wheels, curves, accelerations. For me personally, too much "noise" on FFB and less road feel. Not that its not there, there is just a lot of things happening at once.
    Couldn't get consistent lap times. I am sure every setting takes time to get used to. will give it another go sometime soon. Will be great to hear more experiences from others.
    The following user likes this Post: wyldanimal


  6. #26
    Superkart Pilot LordDRIFT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wyldanimal View Post
    What I've found by Experimenting..
    Rel Adj Gain - the FFB signal will be boosted up to this max setting..
    Rel Bleed, is a time based setting, How Fast the Strength of the Signal goes away
    Rel Clamp, as the Gain Rises and Falls, the Clamp holds the strength at that level until it bleeds off.

    That's just what I've figured them to be from experimentation.

    So if you set higher Gain, and Clamp, the Wheel builds strength faster.
    with a small bleed value, it dissipates quick.

    The Higher the Gain and Clam, the Stronger / Heavier the wheel gets.
    Interesting. Thanks.

  7. #27
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    may I ask, have people recalibrated and reset FFB settings (global) to default?

    i ask as i have been using wootball's settings with jack spades car configurations. Since patch i cant really feel the front wheels slide or grip. The tension on the wheel when turning just seems the same no matter what is happening with the front tyres. I get decent fb off the rear end though, i;'m wondering is my centre spring issue? have sop scale at about 20

    Have tyre force at 75 and FFB strength 100.

    thanks

  8. #28
    Superkart Pilot LordDRIFT's Avatar
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    Yes

  9. #29
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    ok, thanks Drift. I'll reset everything and start again!! Hopefully my experience will then be sweet like people express in this thread.

  10. #30
    Superkart Pilot LordDRIFT's Avatar
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    There is a saying that goes "Ignorance is bliss". This is so true. I was never bothered by the "centering spring" until it was explained to me what is was. Now i'm constantly aware and fixated on it - I may have even compromised other areas to lessen its effect. Thanks pcars forum. Reminds me of Shallow Hal...

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