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Thread: [XB1] Thrustmaster TX Discussion

  1. #1
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    Question [XB1] Thrustmaster TX Discussion

    I use the Thrustmaster TX.

    Last night, I was racing an LMP1 car on Watkins Glen (with DOR @ 900-degrees on the TX wheel). I had to go hand-over-hand to make the slight left turn on the second half of the chicane ("Inner Loop"). Hopefully some of you guys can help with some advice on these points:

    1. I've never driven an LMP1 car - but needing to go hand-over-hand just doesn't seem right
    2. I can change this behavior to meet my expectations by changing the DOR on my wheel. Even adjusting down to 720 makes a big difference, but I usually use 540 or 270. (270 is pretty unrealistic but can be really fast around the track due to the small adjustments needed)
      1. But changing DOR on the wheel requires recalibrating the wheel each time. ...and since patch 1.4 came out, the wheel makes an intense shaking action in the menus (that stops once I grab the wheel) when calibrated down to 270 DOR.
      2. Should the game be adjusting the DOR automatically to be correct for each car?
      3. Should the top performance cars (LMP1/2, Formula A, B, C?) automatically force a lower DOR on the wheel?
        1. Or can I use steering ratio to fix this? I've adjusted that setting in both directions but it never changes the DOR. To me, it just seems to make the wheel feel slightly more or less "tight" around center.
        2. Or should the speed sensitivity work in a way that makes the turning radius required at medium-to-high speeds far less than the turning radius required at low speeds? I've also adjusted the speed sensitivity setting but that doesn't feel like it changes anything to me.
          1. I do notice that less steering is required at speed but it's not as much as I expect. ...and testing how much more steering the car requires at low speed is almost impossible given how quick the wheel locks to center when the speed of the car drops. The wheel locking at low->zero speeds is really unrealistic and also seems like it puts a lot of unnecessary stress on the wheel.

    3. Is it just me? ...or are these cars not driving like they should be? Is there some other setting I'm missing that will make this feel better? Or are my expectations incorrect?
    Crunch

  2. #2
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    I adjust steering ratio down (faster) on all of the open wheelers and most GT cars. It doesn't change the DOR but that doesn't bother me really.
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  3. #3
    GT5 Pilot Dynomight Motorsports's Avatar
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    In most games, maybe even Shift2 (Slightly Mad Studio's) if I'm not mistaken has Turning Ratio adjustment and Steering Lock. Maybe, I'm wrong, but how hard could it be to put in Adjustable steering lock.
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  4. #4
    Kart Driver psydeviant1's Avatar
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    for me i calibrate the wheel at 360 (i use the F1 rim), i've tried 900 and even faffing around with rack ratios and sensitivity i still find i have to over rotate the wheel on certain cars , i know loads of people will say you must calibrate at 900 and let the game do the rest the ffb will be wrong etc etc but i struggle like this , as i said i've tried both ways , i dont find any difference in the ffb once calibrated at 360, at the end of the day im getting full lock from centre with 180 turn of the wheel which is what i like, feedback is good for me

    these are my settings
    calibrated at 360
    steering sensitivity 70
    steering deadzone 0
    deadzone removal +5
    tyre force 90
    ffb 100
    and in car settings to jack spades fy+soplateral chart
    ( im going to try the bumps plus settings which adds about double to the mz/fz scales and sop diff scales to add more bumps and ruts to the feedback but will probably have to drop the tyre force a bit using these settings )
    Last edited by psydeviant1; 19-06-2015 at 02:49.
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by crunchy1X View Post
    I use the Thrustmaster TX.

    Last night, I was racing an LMP1 car on Watkins Glen (with DOR @ 900-degrees on the TX wheel). I had to go hand-over-hand to make the slight left turn on the second half of the chicane ("Inner Loop"). Hopefully some of you guys can help with some advice on these points:

    1. I've never driven an LMP1 car - but needing to go hand-over-hand just doesn't seem right
    2. I can change this behavior to meet my expectations by changing the DOR on my wheel. Even adjusting down to 720 makes a big difference, but I usually use 540 or 270. (270 is pretty unrealistic but can be really fast around the track due to the small adjustments needed)
      1. But changing DOR on the wheel requires recalibrating the wheel each time. ...and since patch 1.4 came out, the wheel makes an intense shaking action in the menus (that stops once I grab the wheel) when calibrated down to 270 DOR.
      2. Should the game be adjusting the DOR automatically to be correct for each car?
      3. Should the top performance cars (LMP1/2, Formula A, B, C?) automatically force a lower DOR on the wheel?
        1. Or can I use steering ratio to fix this? I've adjusted that setting in both directions but it never changes the DOR. To me, it just seems to make the wheel feel slightly more or less "tight" around center.
        2. Or should the speed sensitivity work in a way that makes the turning radius required at medium-to-high speeds far less than the turning radius required at low speeds? I've also adjusted the speed sensitivity setting but that doesn't feel like it changes anything to me.
          1. I do notice that less steering is required at speed but it's not as much as I expect. ...and testing how much more steering the car requires at low speed is almost impossible given how quick the wheel locks to center when the speed of the car drops. The wheel locking at low->zero speeds is really unrealistic and also seems like it puts a lot of unnecessary stress on the wheel.

    3. Is it just me? ...or are these cars not driving like they should be? Is there some other setting I'm missing that will make this feel better? Or are my expectations incorrect?
    Adjusting the steering ratio works for me. I think there is an setting in Configuration -> Advanced which controls if the soft stops are enabled. Anyway, as you reduce the steering ratio it takes less DOR to get from lock to lock, and with the soft stops, you will hit a spring at the end of the possible rotation.

    Meanwhile, Steering sensitivity affects the linearity of the steering, so if you have it at 50% its linear, so each degree you turn should have the same affect on the steering, but if you increase it towards 100 then you have to turn very little to make a difference when you're close to centre, but as you get further away form centre you have to turn more and more.

    I've got it on 50% these days, and prefer a steering ratio of about 10.5

    Make sure you're steering deadzone is on zero
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  6. #6
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    I set my wheel at 540, calibrate, when doing 90 degrees ffb, turn wheel so 900 shows and set. Don't need to calibrate again. Next time I start game, I hit mode/left which seems to reset wheel at 540 that I did before, no need to recalibrate.
    Last edited by STEELJOCKEY; 19-06-2015 at 05:32.
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  7. #7
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    Other thing I've done after 1.4 is set steering dead zone at zero, steering sensitivity at 75, speed sensitivity at 60, FFB at 100 and tyre force at 80. Jack's setting for master and f scales, no smoothing, and SoPs all zero as suggested by bmanic.

    Wheel is amazing now for me.
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by BellCurve View Post
    I adjust steering ratio down (faster) on all of the open wheelers and most GT cars. It doesn't change the DOR but that doesn't bother me really.
    I've played with the steering ratio and, even at the lowest setting, it still requires hand-over-hand action on open wheel cars (see several other recent threads about Azure/Monaco) or LMP1 cars (as reported in my OP).

    Quote Originally Posted by stux View Post
    Adjusting the steering ratio works for me. I think there is an setting in Configuration -> Advanced which controls if the soft stops are enabled. Anyway, as you reduce the steering ratio it takes less DOR to get from lock to lock, and with the soft stops, you will hit a spring at the end of the possible rotation.

    Meanwhile, Steering sensitivity affects the linearity of the steering, so if you have it at 50% its linear, so each degree you turn should have the same affect on the steering, but if you increase it towards 100 then you have to turn very little to make a difference when you're close to centre, but as you get further away form centre you have to turn more and more.

    I've got it on 50% these days, and prefer a steering ratio of about 10.5

    Make sure you're steering deadzone is on zero
    Thanks for the tips. I'll check some of those settings.

    Quote Originally Posted by STEELJOCKEY View Post
    I set my wheel at 540, calibrate, when doing 90 degrees ffb, turn wheel so 900 shows and set. Don't need to calibrate again. Next time I start game, I hit mode/left which seems to reset wheel at 540 that I did before, no need to recalibrate.
    I also experience this. There is no problem with the game saving the calibration from session-to-session and I also just have to use the mode button to return the wheel's DOR setting to match the DOR of my most recent calibration in the game.

    Quote Originally Posted by STEELJOCKEY View Post
    Other thing I've done after 1.4 is set steering dead zone at zero, steering sensitivity at 75, speed sensitivity at 60, FFB at 100 and tyre force at 80. Jack's setting for master and f scales, no smoothing, and SoPs all zero as suggested by bmanic.

    Wheel is amazing now for me.
    Thanks! I'll try those settings.
    Crunch

  9. #9
    GT3 Pilot Schnizz58's Avatar
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    I've been told that the game does adjust the DOR of the wheel as needed. The intended way to set it up is to leave the wheel at 900 and use the steering sensitivity to reduce the amount of steering input so that you don't have to do hand-over-hand in tight corners. You can also use the steering ratio to make fine adjustments for different tracks.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by psydeviant1 View Post
    i know loads of people will say you must calibrate at 900 and let the game do the rest the ffb will be wrong etc etc but i struggle like this
    This is why I started this thread. I too saw many posts from people saying exactly what I quoted from your post. But, when I play the game, that strategy does not result in a realistic experience. It would be great if some of those people touting the "leave it at 900 DOR and let the game do its thing" strategy would stop by to compare whether they're also experiencing the issues with turning radius on the LMP and Formula cars around tight turns.
    Crunch

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