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Thread: [FFB] Ready to give up.

  1. #41
    Superkart Pilot
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    Quote Originally Posted by hehehemann View Post
    I was one of the lucky ones that hadnt messed with the ffb settings when moving to the 1.4 patch. The newest 2.0 patch just arrived and I decided now would be a good time to reset the game.
    NOW I know what everyone is talking about...Its horrible, I have reset all controls on my G27 ffb setting to default and the game is very much unplayable!!
    Whats going on here, its like this company didnt even bother to listen to all the problems and get these bugs fixed, is it going to be another few weeks until the next patch, is this game just going to be an EA type where we really want the fixes but they just wont listen and fix them. I can see why so many of the community sites are starting to rip this game, just really cant believe they didnt fix the ffb with all these complaints.
    dude... i really feel with you.
    welcome in the Club
    same issues since weeks
    The following user likes this Post: M0dMaSt3r


  2. #42
    Kart Driver Marakusu's Avatar
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    I would also like to give my settings for Logitech G27.
    So I use Logitech profiler and start the game from profiler...those profiler settings are explained in that G25/G27 - Setup guide.

    In game settings:

    FFB 100, TF 150, Deadzone removal range 0.18, Deadzone removal falloff 0.10 (maximum), relative adjust gain 1.10, relative adjust bleed 0.10, relative adjust clamp 0.95.
    Scoop knee 0.70, scoop reduction 0.15.
    Soft clipping (half input) 2.59, soft clipping (full output) 2.20.

    So the wheel shakes sometimes on straights or standstill but you just have to hold the wheel and shaking stops.
    And since G27 has strong rumble effect over some curbs, I reduce Jack's tweak files SpindleFz and SopDifferential values (same values for both), I prefer value 0.5.

    So if someone is not happy with G27 setup try this.

  3. #43
    Kart Driver
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    Hi there,

    I've been messing with the Force Feedback setup for my G27 with 2.0 patch and I will share my setup as it works quite well now. I am using Jack Spade's tweaker files.

    First step is resetting the FFB setup in game. Now FFB (since 1.4 patch) is very bad.

    Tire Force: 40. Default value (100) seems too high since 1.4
    Deadzone Removal Range: 0.16
    Relative Adjust Clamp: 0.24
    Soft Clipping (Half): 1.6
    Soft Clipping (Full): 2.4

    It is better to try FFB setups in a laser scanned track (as Oulton IIRC). If you see clipping, increase soft clipping.

    Good news is there are plenty of parameters to make FFB work right, and there are several ways to make it work nicely. Bad news is that to nail it take time and perseverance. Change one thing at a time and test it, and look at the graph on telemetry till you got a good FFB response.

    Regards,
    Kurt.-
    The following user likes this Post: jimortality


  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by ex_ View Post
    This sounds a lot like what I've done, on the previous pages. Though, I still don't understand why people are reducing Tire Force. With my TR300RS, there does not seem to be a reason for this.

    The reason people are feeling they need to reduce Tire force seems to be that they are trying to reduce the overal strength of the forces, which is precisely what the global FFB setting is for.

    If anyone who is frustrated with this aspect of the game has not tried my settings, I don't know what to tell you...
    Quote Originally Posted by dw123 View Post
    Well, ultimately we can't actually know what effect anything is truly having until one of the devs actually explains the maths behind each function, and the processing queue for what order each gets applied in.

    As I understood it, Tire Force is basically the only force in the game... there are no canned effects, everything you feel is derived exclusively from Tire Force... so Tire Force should be a straight multiplier on the signal in exactly the same way that Global FFB Strength is... except that I believe the FFB Strength will be applied to the chain last, after all other processing has happened... so if something else has already caused the signal to clip, scaling the result to 80% will just scale that clipped value to 80%... whereas if you keep it at 100%, and reduce Tire Force by the same factor, you won't generate a clipped force in the first place.

    This is why I, and most others advise altering Tire Force instead of Global FFB Strength... because if our understanding is correct, it amounts to the same thing with less likelihood of clipping. If however, the system allows for larger-than-1.0 forces, and only clamps to 1.0 right at the end of the processing queue, then it may just as well be the case that it doesn't matter which you change.

    Yes, I realise this may not bear out with your personal experience, I'm just explaining what I have come to understand from the most insightful, methodical, least-speculative sources available. It would be really useful at this point if a dev could actually confirm or correct any of this, as at the moment the sheer quantity of differing understandings can only mean that the majority of us are advising people based on outright misunderstandings and fallacies. That very well may include me. I try to make the most educated, informed guesses that I can, but I have no more solid information to go on than anyone else.
    Well, I tested this to make certain, and it very clearly works exactly as I suspected. As I have it set, FFB 100, Tire Force 40, I get a clear defined feedback. If I reverse it, and have Tire Force 100, and FFB 40, I get roughly the same overall strength, except the signal is massively clipped, and *then* reduced down to 40% after the clipping occurs. The in-game FFB graph actually displays the final signal *before* the global FFB scaling is applied to it, so it still shows it taking up the full height of the graph.

    So, that's a confirmation... using Global FFB Strength to vary your overall FFB strength absolutely is a bad idea. I checked again, and any significant sources that mention it seem to confirm that Tire Force is indeed a direct linear multiplier on the overall FFB forces, so it absolutely is the value you need to lower until you stop experiencing clipping. The only effect of reducing Global FFB Strength lower than 100 is to needlessly limit the range of available forces your wheel can output.

    So, given your setting of 80/100... I would recommend reversing that - it should feel essentially identical to what you had before, except that it will give you an extra 20% clipping headroom on top.

  5. #45
    Kart Driver
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    Try keeping FFB and Tire Strength at 100% and lowering Relative Adjust Clamp to 0.20 - 0.30 instead. This lightens the wheel weight considerably whilst retaining far more "road feel". On a bumpy laser scanned track like Oulton Park the difference is night and day.
    The following 2 users likes this Post: ex_, Valekideam


  6. #46
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    I'm done with it now. It feels like shit. No matter how much I fight with the settings some aspects are too stiff and other things don't respond at all. It'll fight me for days in a normal corner but does absolutely NOTHING if I spear off the road at 100 MPH. Total waste of $400 buying the wheel and this game. I'll just have to wait till Forza comes out.

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by tpw View Post
    Try keeping FFB and Tire Strength at 100% and lowering Relative Adjust Clamp to 0.20 - 0.30 instead. This lightens the wheel weight considerably whilst retaining far more "road feel". On a bumpy laser scanned track like Oulton Park the difference is night and day.
    I did it and feels like my desk is a car now, it don't clips never on outlon park but if u were watching me u'd know what is happening on the game just listening the desk sounds. hahaha
    i5 5th gen 4440, 8 GB RAM DDR3, NVIDIA GTX 750 TI, Windows 7 PRofessional, 1080p, Logitech g27 Racing wheel

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ampersand View Post
    I'm done with it now. It feels like shit. No matter how much I fight with the settings some aspects are too stiff and other things don't respond at all. It'll fight me for days in a normal corner but does absolutely NOTHING if I spear off the road at 100 MPH. Total waste of $400 buying the wheel and this game. I'll just have to wait till Forza comes out.
    I know your pain, Ampersand. I just bought a G27 and I'm having a hard time to make it work right. Actually, I'm seeing that having a FFB wheel is a constant struggle, every game needs its own settings and it's a pain to discover them. Gaming wheels are meant to give you some fun, but I'm getting little of it until now. Now I know why there are so many used wheels for sale on eBay.

    What's happening to me is that right after installing the wheel and playing PCars, the forces were very acceptable with Global FFB 100 and Tire Force 100. I wasn't having good response from bumps, kerbs, grass and impacts (actually never did), but at least it wasn't clipping too much. But after the 2.0 patch, now the wheel clips like crazy with the car standing still and centered, and the tire force is quite unpredictable, reducing it doesn't work. I had to put Deadzone Removal Range back to 0 to make the crazy clipping stop, but this f***s up all the feedback too. I'll simply have to go back to ground zero now, reset all the settings and try everything again. This is the complete opposite of fun. I also play Dirt Rally and the game works fine with default settings, I still have to fine tune it for RWD cars, but at least it works. PCars is a total mess instead. And I was loving the game with an analog controller...
    Last edited by marcosrv; 01-07-2015 at 13:45.

  9. #49
    CEO - SMS Group. Ian Bell's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by marcosrv View Post
    I know your pain, Ampersand. I just bought a G27 and I'm having a hard time to make it work right. Actually, I'm seeing that having a FFB wheel is a constant struggle, every game needs its own settings and it's a pain to discover them. Gaming wheels are meant to give you some fun, but I'm getting little of it until now. Now I know why there are so many used wheels for sale on eBay.

    What's happening to me is that right after installing the wheel and playing PCars, the forces were very acceptable with Global FFB 100 and Tire Force 100. I wasn't having good response from bumps, kerbs, grass and impacts (actually never did), but at least it wasn't clipping too much. But after the 2.0 patch, now the wheel clips like crazy with the car standing still and centered, and the tire force is quite unpredictable, reducing it doesn't work. I had to put Deadzone Removal Range back to 0 to make the crazy clipping stop, but this f***s up all the feedback too. I'll simply have to go back to ground zero now, reset all the settings and try everything again. This is the complete opposite of fun. I also play Dirt Rally and the game works fine with default settings, I still have to fine tune it for RWD cars, but at least it works. PCars is a total mess instead. And I was loving the game with an analog controller...
    Thanks for that, the team appreciate it. Mainly because it's just so accurate.

    Another thread closed due to hyperbole.

  10. #50
    CEO - SMS Group. Ian Bell's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ampersand View Post
    I'm done with it now. It feels like shit. No matter how much I fight with the settings some aspects are too stiff and other things don't respond at all. It'll fight me for days in a normal corner but does absolutely NOTHING if I spear off the road at 100 MPH. Total waste of $400 buying the wheel and this game. I'll just have to wait till Forza comes out.
    Good, give up, man.

    Longest exit in history.

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