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Thread: Homemade Buttkicker.

  1. #1
    Kart Driver zbran's Avatar
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    Homemade Buttkicker.

    Hello,so I'm going to have a go at making my own Buttkicker. I'm to casual a player to outlay 250 Euro on a real one. It looks to be a fairly straightforward thing to put together. I only have a Playseat Challenge and I've no idea how I'm going to attach the speakers to the bottom of the seat/frame but I'll figure that out. If anyone has attempted this before and has some advice/tips that would be really appreciated!. So below is a list of the parts I will order. Is there anything else I need and haven't though of? If anybody can help me out with some advice on this that would be great :-)


    ONEU Mini Amplifier Super Bass, Hi-Fi Subwoofer Stereo Amplifiers 2x 20W.

    Dayton Audio TT25-8 PUCK Tactile Transducer Mini Bass Shaker 8 Ohm ( I will buy 2 of these).

    CDL Micro 15cm 2 x RCA/ Phono Male to 1 x 6.35mm Stereo Jack Male Adapter Cable.

    Cable-Tex Speaker Cable White.


    The cost of the parts is about 75 euro.

  2. #2
    WMD Member BullWinkle's Avatar
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    You may get more answers/help if placed in proper thread. A Mod may/will move it into a more appropriate thread. Good luck with the build.
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  3. #3
    Kart Driver zbran's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BullWinkle View Post
    You may get more answers/help if placed in proper thread. A Mod may/will move it into a more appropriate thread. Good luck with the build.

    Oops sorry :-(. Wasn't sure where to put it.

  4. #4
    Kart Driver zbran's Avatar
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    Just realised this is the PC2 discussion section...

  5. #5
    WMD Member BullWinkle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zbran View Post
    Just realised this is the PC2 discussion section...
    I will inform a Mod to move it to a more suitable thread.
    Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 Motherboard / AMD FX-8350 Vishera 8-Core CPU@4.0Ghz / 8GB G.Skill RipJaws 2X4GB DDR3-1866,
    Samsung 250GB 850 EVO (SSD) / SAPPHIRE NITRO+ Radeon RX480 8GB/OC 1342Mhz / Crimson ReLive 17.4.3 Drivers.
    TrackIR 5, ver 5.2 final drivers |Logitech G27
    240 Gig HD | Claro Plus++ sound card | Win7_64 | BenQ V2400W | Corsair TX850W Power Supply

    In-game settings: @ 1920 X 1200 | Texture Rez HIGH | Post Filter On | LensFlare OFF | Bloom OFF | Haze OFF | Detailed Grass-Med | HDR Photo | Tex Filter 16x | Game_VSync OFF | SMAA Off | FXAA Off |Reflections MED | Vehicle Ultra | Track Ultra | Shadows MED | Motion Blur OFF | Render Ahead 2 |
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  6. #6
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  7. #7
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    Good luck on your endeavors it defiantly adds another depression of immersion!

    Are you going to run SimVibe?

    I am currently running chassis mode in SimVibe with two transducers mounted directly under the seat. I went to my local home improvement store and grabbed the thickest flat steel bar I could find. Originally i bought angle iron, but i didn't have enough clearance to mount it. You want the stiffest material you can find so the vibrations can transfer without being lost in the materials. Used an angle grinder to cut them to length.

    My seat has two horizontal bars running from horizontally across the bottom of the seat about 12in apart. I measured, drilled holes, and used bolts,washers, and locking nuts to secure my flat bars across the horizontal seat bars. Click image for larger version. 

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    i found some rubber grommets and put them between the seat and the base to make sure the vibrations were going where i wanted them to.

    If you are not afraid of a little cutting and sewing, you might try mounting the dayton pucks to a flexible plastic sheet and putting it underneath the seat cover/back cover and cutting out a bit of foam to let it nestle in.. Because they are so low powered, having them close to your body like that will make the effect much more noticeable.

    It was a learning process the whole way through. Measure twice cut/drill once. I underestimated the amount of work it would take to complete this project, but it was worth it.

    Whatever you do be sure to post pics and impressions!
    Last edited by brasstacks; 09-03-2017 at 16:37.
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  8. #8
    Kart Driver zbran's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brasstacks View Post
    Good luck on your endeavors it defiantly adds another depression of immersion!

    Are you going to run SimVibe?

    I am currently running chassis mode in SimVibe with two transducers mounted directly under the seat. I went to my local home improvement store and grabbed the thickest flat steel bar I could find. Originally i bought angle iron, but i didn't have enough clearance to mount it. You want the stiffest material you can find so the vibrations can transfer without being lost in the materials. Used an angle grinder to cut them to length.

    My seat has two horizontal bars running from horizontally across the bottom of the seat about 12in apart. I measured, drilled holes, and used bolts,washers, and locking nuts to secure my flat bars across the horizontal seat bars. Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20170218_092059.jpg 
Views:	104 
Size:	124.4 KB 
ID:	237157

    i found some rubber grommets and put them between the seat and the base to make sure the vibrations were going where i wanted them to.

    If you are not afraid of a little cutting and sewing, you might try mounting the dayton pucks to a flexible plastic sheet and putting it underneath the seat cover/back cover and cutting out a bit of foam to let it nestle in.. Because they are so low powered, having them close to your body like that will make the effect much more noticeable.

    It was a learning process the whole way through. Measure twice cut/drill once. I underestimated the amount of work it would take to complete this project, but it was worth it.

    Whatever you do be sure to post pics and impressions!

    Sorry for the late reply. I stopped looking at the thread as often. WOW dude,thank you so much,that's tons of really useful info right there..


    Ok so the picture below is my seat. I'm limited as to what I can do. But looking at my seat I had a similar idea to yourself. I was thinking a strip of perspex with the speakers mounted flush to it. I would then attach them right to the bottom of the seat.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    In this picture below, you can see the bottom of my seat is supported by a thick Velcro strap. I was thinking of using this strap to help secure the speakers to the bottom of the seat. I can think of various ways to securing them.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The above picture also shows plan B,which is basically what you did. I was thinking either both speakers on a metal plate secured like above, or 1 speaker on the "front legs" and one secured to the rear.


    So any opinion on which way I should go? I have no problem trying both methods tbh. Ohh I have no idea what SimVibe is,I assume its software of some kind. If I'm honest I haven't thought that far ahead!. I will post up pictures of what I'm doing for sure. Thank you again mate.

  9. #9
    Superkart Pilot GUTTER-BOY's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	237311Since you are using a Playseat Challenge, I'm guessing you pack it away. If you don't store it when not in use, have you thought about building a platform for your seat? I did it for my home theater seats because I couldn't hook 2 Aura Pro bass shakers to each of them, so I went the platform route and it works great (but isn't really convenient if you lack space).
    Last edited by GUTTER-BOY; 27-03-2017 at 22:49.

  10. #10
    WMD Member wyldanimal's Avatar
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    You will probably Need like 8 of these... and 4 amps..
    Dayton Audio TT25-8 PUCK
    each one has a Peak Force of about 30 lbs., that's not a Lot..

    your idea, might not cost a lot, but I think your results will be less than spectacular.

    I'd recommend One of these... ( i'm using Two for my Rig )
    http://www.parts-express.com/clark-s...haker--300-861
    It has a Peak Force of 216 lbs.
    and the Amp for it.
    http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...ifier--300-802

    Get a Split Ring Hanger. It's got the 3/8 thread in it that the Transducer rod will screw in to..
    https://www.lowes.com/pd/AMERICAN-VA...Hanger/3223519




    I initially had two of these, and was very disappointed in them..
    http://www.parts-express.com/aurasou...ducer--299-028

    then I got an Official Butt Kicker, and it wasn't much better.

    Then I got one of the TSt209's, What a Difference.. Bet $100 I spent on my Rig..
    I had the 70 watt Amp already..
    But then the Amp was Over Heating, so I had to get a 300w amp.

    I got this one..
    http://www.parts-express.com/yung-sd...boost--301-508

    Don't use it above 100w, or you can Blow out the TST209. I've blown one up, with too much Wattage from the Amp.
    So Now I make sure I don't crank it over 100 watts.

    Since I liked how it felt when I had it cranked up...

    I had to Get another one, and a 2nd Amp.
    So Now I have two, One on the Left channel, and One on the Right Channel.
    Yeah, $460 for two amps and Two Transducers.. But I did it at separate times...

    I tried the Lower cost route, and was very disappointed and ended up tossing that money away...
    $100 bucks for amp and bass shaker.. then $50 for 2nd bass shaker... The $150 for the ButtKicker... I already had the Amp..
    I wasted about $300 on the Other tries.. an expensive learning process..
    I Should have did my research and saved for the Better Stuff.

    So my Advice,
    Better to save for the Good Stuff and do it up so you're not disappointed with the results.

    Click image for larger version. 

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