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Thread: Car set up order

  1. #1
    Superkart Pilot
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    Car set up order

    Hi

    I'm a fairly experienced racer to a decent standard but have to admit I'm quite lazy when it comes to car setups. In pc1 I would always change what I consider the basics in pretty much the following order and would get cars performing to my liking;

    Tire pressures
    Fuel
    Brake duct/ pressure
    Aero
    Gear ratio
    Ride heights
    Springs
    Front camber

    Any thoughts on if it's worth my time trying to add more changes to my setups re dampers / diffs /cambers and if so should any take priority over things on my current list

  2. #2
    GT5 Pilot
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    Like you I always work on my tire pressures first, from default I start by lowering the fronts by 5 bar and the rears by 10 bar, if the course has mostly right turns I lower the rights by another 5 bar and vice versa. Most of the default tire pressures I find are too high to start. I set brake pressure to 49. I leave brake duct at default to start. If available, I set aero to full rear and nothing on the front. I set weight balance a little to the rear if available. Springs are a personal choice but if it's a front engine car I set the front springs stiffer than the rears and vice versa if it's a rear engine car. I set front roll bar to soft and rear a little to the right of soft. I start with the bump stops at 10/11 on the front and 15/16 on the rear (I change the bumps if I see something on the HUD after I start driving). I set the dampers fairly stiff to start with the slow bumps and soft front rebound. I set accel lock to 26 and decel lock to 52 and diff to 40. I leave the ride heights at default to start mostly. I leave gear ratios at default until I take the car for a spin. I don't mess with fuel to start(mostly run TT), but mostly I use 21 liters because I can't do a lot of laps anyway and although it shouldn't make any difference in TT I just like things the same. I take the car out and watch tire temps as I drive, usually I can get through a lap and pit and make adjustments to pressure and brake bias/pressure. Run more laps an adjust tire pressure until I am happy with the temps after I do a 2 lap run then I will start adjusting everything else tweaking tire pressure as I go. I've had to set up all my cars again after a crash and this is the procedure I use to get back up and running.
    Bikes wrecked-77 Suzuki RM125, 78 Honda Elsinore 250, 81 Honda CB900F, 2000 Kawsaki ZX12R(2), 2001 Honda F4I, 2005 Yamaha R1. A bike hasn't been made I couldn't wreck, spectacularly, but I'm retired now.

  3. #3
    GTE Pilot hkraft300's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jbpd View Post
    Hi
    Hello.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jbpd View Post
    ...what I consider the basics in pretty much the following order and would get cars performing to my liking;

    Tire pressures
    Fuel
    Brake duct/ pressure
    Aero
    Gear ratio
    Ride heights
    Springs
    Front camber
    You don't have to restrict yourself to this order. Tweak and loop back. Eg you add downforce, your ride height gets too low, so you increase springs, so your tyres start to heat too much so you loop back and increase your tyre pressure.
    Be dynamic, because the cars and conditions are.

    Quote Originally Posted by blinkngone View Post
    Most of the default tire pressures I find are too high to start.
    +1

    Quote Originally Posted by blinkngone View Post
    I set brake pressure to 49.
    If you mean pressure, that'll be too weak. Anywhere between 80-100% mostly. Depends on the car and how much you're locking the brakes.
    If you mean bias that's really far back and will give you rear brake lockup on most cars.


    Quote Originally Posted by blinkngone View Post
    I leave brake duct at default to start.
    They're usually very conservative. On steel brake cars it's not much an issue except the extra bit of drag. On carbon brakes FA/GT1/LMP cars you'll lose brake power. Most tracks you'd want ~35%. As low as 5% for le Mans/Spa/Silverstone, ~15% Monza, 50+ for Zhuhai. Depends on your brake temps.
    Note the FR3.5 brakes get hot so you'd run >50% duct at most tracks.


    Quote Originally Posted by blinkngone View Post
    If available, I set aero to full rear and nothing on the front. I set weight balance a little to the rear if available. Springs are a personal choice but if it's a front engine car I set the front springs stiffer than the rears and vice versa if it's a rear engine car. I set front roll bar to soft and rear a little to the right of soft.
    Most default setups are fairly understeer biased, and these changes set you up for more understeer. Check out Jussi's (former wmd, now SMS) suspension calculator on projectcarssetups.eu

    Personally I'll start with balanced springs and dampers using the calculator. Except Indy and CLK-LM, which need massively stiff front end for the front Aero to work better.
    "Slow is smooth, smooth is fast."
    G29 settings (PC1).
    G29 FFB RAW 100-55-20-25
    The following 2 users likes this Post: blinkngone, Jbpd


  4. #4
    GT5 Pilot
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    Sorry, I set bias to 49 to start. Pressure I'm mostly between 96 and 99%. On some older cars I have to reduce pressure. I start understeering so I don't s loose control as much until I can get my tire temps right then I can adjust. I'll try adjusting brake duct but it's more usual for the engineer to warn me I'm overheating the brakes at default.
    Bikes wrecked-77 Suzuki RM125, 78 Honda Elsinore 250, 81 Honda CB900F, 2000 Kawsaki ZX12R(2), 2001 Honda F4I, 2005 Yamaha R1. A bike hasn't been made I couldn't wreck, spectacularly, but I'm retired now.

  5. #5
    GTE Pilot hkraft300's Avatar
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    Engineer won't tell you if your brakes are too cold. Steel brakes are effective from ambient to ~650℃.
    Carbon brakes won't bite below ~600℃. Adjust accordingly.
    "Slow is smooth, smooth is fast."
    G29 settings (PC1).
    G29 FFB RAW 100-55-20-25

  6. #6
    GT5 Pilot
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    Hi hkraft300. Attached is my CKLM set up for the Dubai tracks. I have all the WR's for this car at Dubai. These are mostly set on the out lap. The brake duct is 75% and the engineer is warning me about brake temps before 2 laps are complete. The person in #2 is usually really good so I don't know if these are good times or not. Maybe PC people hate this car. I like the real car, never forget weber's spectacular LeMans flip. There is no guide for what a good lap should be so I don't know how much I need to improve. Club is 0:55.762, GP is 1:49.064, International is 1:29.092 and National is 1:16.401.How do these times compare with the CKLM Dubai tracks on the PS4? I lost all my brake duct settings when I lost my set ups but I had adjusted them from your previous advice. Thanks for all your help in the past and in advance for future help.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	pCARS64 2017-07-26 07-36-27-10.jpg 
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    Bikes wrecked-77 Suzuki RM125, 78 Honda Elsinore 250, 81 Honda CB900F, 2000 Kawsaki ZX12R(2), 2001 Honda F4I, 2005 Yamaha R1. A bike hasn't been made I couldn't wreck, spectacularly, but I'm retired now.
    The following user likes this Post: hkraft300


  7. #7
    GTE Pilot hkraft300's Avatar
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    I see what you're doing with the setup.

    My favourite car. Webber did drive this, but it's the CLR I'm sure that flipped, not the LM.
    "Slow is smooth, smooth is fast."
    G29 settings (PC1).
    G29 FFB RAW 100-55-20-25

  8. #8
    GT5 Pilot
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    Right, sorry, CLR, looked similar to me.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	images.jpg 
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    Bikes wrecked-77 Suzuki RM125, 78 Honda Elsinore 250, 81 Honda CB900F, 2000 Kawsaki ZX12R(2), 2001 Honda F4I, 2005 Yamaha R1. A bike hasn't been made I couldn't wreck, spectacularly, but I'm retired now.

  9. #9
    GTE Pilot hkraft300's Avatar
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    1:49 in the CLK-LM at Dubai is really quick.
    I can't match that but I don't do TT.
    "Slow is smooth, smooth is fast."
    G29 settings (PC1).
    G29 FFB RAW 100-55-20-25
    The following user likes this Post: blinkngone


  10. #10
    GT5 Pilot
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    Ok, thanks hkraft300 for looking it up for me. Maybe in PCars2 they will have a lap time guide for TT that would list a perfect time so there is something to shoot for rather than just the fastest driver's time who happens to show up. I know I could push that time but why bother with no one else running that track? That suspension has generated more than a few WR at other tracks for me do to lack of interest by others in that car.
    Bikes wrecked-77 Suzuki RM125, 78 Honda Elsinore 250, 81 Honda CB900F, 2000 Kawsaki ZX12R(2), 2001 Honda F4I, 2005 Yamaha R1. A bike hasn't been made I couldn't wreck, spectacularly, but I'm retired now.

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