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Thread: T300 - Loud Fan?

  1. #1
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    T300 - Loud Fan?

    Hi y'all,

    Got myself a Thrustmaster T300 today. Installed the wheel and tried some Project Cars 2. About half way through Nurburgring I noticed some noise. Playing with headphones here...

    The wheel sounds sort of like a small vacuum cleaner. Quite loud, to say the least.

    Is this normal for these wheels? I'm assuming something is the matter here since I've never seen this mentioned in any reviews...

    In case it's abnormal, is there anything to do but to return it? I'm not too keen on the hassle of returning it and then be without a wheel for a couple of weeks.

  2. #2
    WMD Member Christiaan van Beilen's Avatar
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    I used a T500 in the past and back then Thrustmaster used those tiny fans of cheap quality. Noisy and didn't push much air.

    I don't know how the internals are or the T300, but if there is room than you can just replace the fan with a small Noctua fan like I did. They are high quality, dead silent, use less power (so longer life for the electronics providing power to it) and above all it moved more air and kept the motor operating at a better temperature.

    Here is the original link to what I did at the time: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threa...8#post-9526340

    Like I said, it was with the T500 and so I don't know how similar the T300 is.
    Christiaan's Pure FFB (latest version: v1.03): http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/sho...ARS2-FFB-File)

    Nicknames elsewhere on the web (incl. Steam, XBN, PSN, etc): LogiForce or LogiForce86

    System: Intel i7 2600k @ 4.2GHz - Noctua NH-D14 - MSI Z68A-GD65 (G3) - Vengeance LP 16GB 1600mhz - EVGA RTX 2080 XC ULTRA 8GB - AverMedia Live Gamer HD (1080p@30hz capture card) - OCZ Vertex 4 256GB (FW: 1.5) - Creative Soundblaster X-Fi titanium champ - Logitech Z-560 4.1 - LG OLED55B8PLA TV

    Input: Logitech Wingman Formula Force - Logitech G25 - Thrustmaster T500 RS - Thrustmaster TH8 RS - Fanatec ClubSport Wheel - Fanatec ClubSport Pedals V1 & V2 - Fanatec ClubSport Shifter SQ - Fanatec ClubSport BMW M3 GT2 rim - Fanatec ClubSport Formula rim (*italic = in use)

  3. #3
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    Also in my experience T500 RS as well as TS-PC Racer fans make an awful racket. I even complained and got a replacement fan for my T500 RS but it was as bad as the original.

    Eventually I simply plugged the fan off and turned volume of the FFB down to avoid overheating. T500 lasted at least for five years like that without any issues. However, since this may cause decreased forces when the motor overheats (which happens by design with T300), the only good solution is replacing the fan with more silent one, as Christiaan suggested.
    Intel i9-9900K | Asus Z390-H mobo | 32 GB 2400 MHz mem | nVidia RTX-2080ti | Soundblaster ZxR | TS-PC Racer wheel | TH8A H-shifter | Valve Index | Win10 64bit | Launch parameters: -pthreads 4

  4. #4
    WMD Member Christiaan van Beilen's Avatar
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    Look here, someone already did my Noctua mod on the T300.

    He also confirmed in comments you can close it (put the covers back on) without issues.

    Last edited by Christiaan van Beilen; 11-09-2019 at 21:13.
    Christiaan's Pure FFB (latest version: v1.03): http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/sho...ARS2-FFB-File)

    Nicknames elsewhere on the web (incl. Steam, XBN, PSN, etc): LogiForce or LogiForce86

    System: Intel i7 2600k @ 4.2GHz - Noctua NH-D14 - MSI Z68A-GD65 (G3) - Vengeance LP 16GB 1600mhz - EVGA RTX 2080 XC ULTRA 8GB - AverMedia Live Gamer HD (1080p@30hz capture card) - OCZ Vertex 4 256GB (FW: 1.5) - Creative Soundblaster X-Fi titanium champ - Logitech Z-560 4.1 - LG OLED55B8PLA TV

    Input: Logitech Wingman Formula Force - Logitech G25 - Thrustmaster T500 RS - Thrustmaster TH8 RS - Fanatec ClubSport Wheel - Fanatec ClubSport Pedals V1 & V2 - Fanatec ClubSport Shifter SQ - Fanatec ClubSport BMW M3 GT2 rim - Fanatec ClubSport Formula rim (*italic = in use)

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrTulip View Post
    Also in my experience T500 RS as well as TS-PC Racer fans make an awful racket. I even complained and got a replacement fan for my T500 RS but it was as bad as the original.

    Eventually I simply plugged the fan off and turned volume of the FFB down to avoid overheating. T500 lasted at least for five years like that without any issues. However, since this may cause decreased forces when the motor overheats (which happens by design with T300), the only good solution is replacing the fan with more silent one, as Christiaan suggested.
    When you say awful racket, do you mean like possibly the worst fan in the world going at too high an rpm? If that’s the case my wheel is working as designed.

    It’s really loud and it sounds like the bearings are unwell.

    Is it normal with these wheels that you have to reset the center calibration? First thing that happened to me after some playing was that the wheel completely lost center. Found a tool that should supposedly calibrate the wheel. Was a bit scary to run, did not help, but at least it did not seem to damage the wheel.

    Found another method that worked. In Windows desktop turn the wheel from lock to lock, center it and press three buttons. That fixed it but it’s apparently inadvisable to do it often, as the on board memory will fill up.

    Noticed that when going lock to lock there’s a high frequency buzz as the resistance increases. Also noticed a bit this in pCars 2 when using a higher volume on the wheel. Is this normal? Doesn’t feel like something bad, but I’d like to check that it’s operating normally.

    A lot of questions, I know. Always gets me anxious when I’m not sure everything is working properly.

    Otherwise I must say, what an improvement over the G29. I thought the G29 was good, and I suppose it is considering the price, but the feel and power of the T300 is just so much better. Makes you feel much more in control when driving, as it tells you exactly what the car is doing.
    The following user likes this Post: MrTulip


  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Christiaan van Beilen View Post
    Look here, someone already did my Noctua mod on the T300.

    He also confirmed in comments you can close it (put the covers back on) without issues.

    [video.=youtube_share;9au3JsNNFSc]http://youtu.be/9au3JsNNFSc[/video]
    Awesome! I’ll get that Noctua asap.

    Is it bolt-on or do you need new bolts and brackets? Otherwise is just a 3 to 2 pin converter, right?

  7. #7
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    Oh, just noticed you mentioned in gtplanet post that the Chiefly fan making about 28dB(A) of noise. I doubt my fan makes less than 60dB(A) noise.

  8. #8
    WMD Member Christiaan van Beilen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gregow View Post
    Awesome! I’ll get that Noctua asap.

    Is it bolt-on or do you need new bolts and brackets? Otherwise is just a 3 to 2 pin converter, right?
    I used good double-sided tape in my case, but that is due to a different construction. Hasn't ever come loose.
    If the fan is placed there originally and it has mounting screws there, than it bolts straight in. The fan is a bit thicker though... 25mm instead of 10mm of the original. Do like the guy you might need to get some longer screws in the hardware store.
    Christiaan's Pure FFB (latest version: v1.03): http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/sho...ARS2-FFB-File)

    Nicknames elsewhere on the web (incl. Steam, XBN, PSN, etc): LogiForce or LogiForce86

    System: Intel i7 2600k @ 4.2GHz - Noctua NH-D14 - MSI Z68A-GD65 (G3) - Vengeance LP 16GB 1600mhz - EVGA RTX 2080 XC ULTRA 8GB - AverMedia Live Gamer HD (1080p@30hz capture card) - OCZ Vertex 4 256GB (FW: 1.5) - Creative Soundblaster X-Fi titanium champ - Logitech Z-560 4.1 - LG OLED55B8PLA TV

    Input: Logitech Wingman Formula Force - Logitech G25 - Thrustmaster T500 RS - Thrustmaster TH8 RS - Fanatec ClubSport Wheel - Fanatec ClubSport Pedals V1 & V2 - Fanatec ClubSport Shifter SQ - Fanatec ClubSport BMW M3 GT2 rim - Fanatec ClubSport Formula rim (*italic = in use)

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Christiaan van Beilen View Post
    I used good double-sided tape in my case, but that is due to a different construction. Hasn't ever come loose.
    If the fan is placed there originally and it has mounting screws there, than it bolts straight in. The fan is a bit thicker though... 25mm instead of 10mm of the original. Do like the guy you might need to get some longer screws in the hardware store.
    Double adhesive tape is actually a good idea. It ought to work fine and the soft mount should eliminate any vibrations. I think I’ll try that. I mean, why complicate things?

  10. #10
    WMD Member Christiaan van Beilen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gregow View Post
    Double adhesive tape is actually a good idea. It ought to work fine and the soft mount should eliminate any vibrations. I think I’ll try that. I mean, why complicate things?
    Exactly my idea. I used some of this stuff...

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Christiaan's Pure FFB (latest version: v1.03): http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/sho...ARS2-FFB-File)

    Nicknames elsewhere on the web (incl. Steam, XBN, PSN, etc): LogiForce or LogiForce86

    System: Intel i7 2600k @ 4.2GHz - Noctua NH-D14 - MSI Z68A-GD65 (G3) - Vengeance LP 16GB 1600mhz - EVGA RTX 2080 XC ULTRA 8GB - AverMedia Live Gamer HD (1080p@30hz capture card) - OCZ Vertex 4 256GB (FW: 1.5) - Creative Soundblaster X-Fi titanium champ - Logitech Z-560 4.1 - LG OLED55B8PLA TV

    Input: Logitech Wingman Formula Force - Logitech G25 - Thrustmaster T500 RS - Thrustmaster TH8 RS - Fanatec ClubSport Wheel - Fanatec ClubSport Pedals V1 & V2 - Fanatec ClubSport Shifter SQ - Fanatec ClubSport BMW M3 GT2 rim - Fanatec ClubSport Formula rim (*italic = in use)

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