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Thread: Fanatec CSL Elite Force Feedback Settings

  1. #1
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    Fanatec CSL Elite Force Feedback Settings

    I've found an amazing balance on my CSL Elite that provides an amplified and more realistic feel in every car than anything else I've plugged in. The big thing about these settings is that they will never snap back during huge slides, but will always continue the slide in that same direction unless you apply pressure to the wheel (or suspension is too soft or elevation changes). But this was the big problem with almost everything I used; that it would clip during big slides and shift the slide making the car snap unpredictably. These settings solve the issue in every car I've tested and feel great at most every steering ratio in all conditions.


    Flavor: Informative
    Gain: 100
    Volume: 36
    Tone: 9
    FX: 37
    Menu Spring: 0 (but you can use any value)

    In wheel settings:
    SEn: 108 or AUt (both are 1080 degrees, calibrate at this value)
    FF: 100
    SHo: OFF
    AbS: OFF (for pedals that I don't have)
    Lln: OFF
    dEA: OFF
    drI: OFF
    For: 120
    SPr: OFF
    dPr: OFF

    Using For at 120 and turning down Volume, Tone and FX seems to have unlocked a lot of potential and dynamic range in the wheel. It seems to more closely reflect actual grip levels and seems a lot more precise like this. I think these settings reflect the real feel that cars would deliver as closely as possible, it's just a matter of finding the right steering ratio.

    Last edited by Krus Control; 18-11-2017 at 02:36.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Krus Control View Post
    I've found an amazing balance on my CSL Elite that provides an amplified and more realistic feel in every car than anything else I've plugged in. The big thing about these settings is that they will never snap back during huge slides, but will always continue the slide in that same direction unless you apply pressure to the wheel (or suspension is too soft or elevation changes). But this was the big problem with almost everything I used; that it would clip during big slides and shift the slide making the car snap unpredictably. These settings solve the issue in every car I've tested and feel great at most every steering ratio in all conditions.


    Flavor: Informative
    Gain: 100
    Volume: 32 (can definitely go higher of lower and still work well)
    Tone: 30
    FX: 30
    Menu Spring: 0 (but you can use any value)

    In wheel settings:
    SEn: 108 or AUt (both are 1080 degrees, calibrate at this value)
    FF: 100
    SHo: OFF
    AbS: OFF (for pedals that I don't have)
    Lln: OFF
    dEA: OFF
    drI: OFF
    For: 110
    SPr: OFF
    dPr: OFF

    Using For at 110 and turning down Volume, Tone and FX seems to have unlocked a lot of potential and dynamic range in the wheel. It seems to more closely reflect actual grip levels and seems a lot more precise like this. I think these settings reflect the real feel that cars would deliver as closely as possible, it's just a matter of finding the right steering ratio.
    Translated by Google, sorry if my phrases are strange.
    It seems strange that you put 0 as SHo value.
    SHo = sensation on vibrators, bumps of the road.
    We'll see, I'll try.
    Thank you anyway.

  3. #3
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    You can run SHo at 100 and it won't make a big difference. I have it at zero to maximize headroom. You might clip in some cars with SHo not at zero.

  4. #4
    Kart Driver MrBeasa's Avatar
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    I could be wrong but i believe 'SHo' is only used if the wheel rim your using has rumble motors built in i.e the BMW GT2 or Porsche 918 rim. If your using the P1 rim then this setting will have no effect at all as it doesn't have the rumble motors.
    System specs: CPU - i7 6700k @ 4.6ghz | GPU - MSI/Corsair Hydro 980ti | RAM - 16gb Corsair Vengeance DDR4 @ 3000mhz | MOBO - MSI Z170A Gaming M7 | SSD - Samsung 850 Evo 500gb x2 | HDD - Seagate SATA 1TB | O.S - Win 10 Pro 64bit | Monitor - Acer Predator X34 | Wheel/Pedals - Fanatec CSL Elite + V3 Pedals.
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Krus Control View Post
    You can run SHo at 100 and it won't make a big difference. I have it at zero to maximize headroom. You might clip in some cars with SHo not at zero.
    Can you please actually prove that changing the FFB settings on the wheel changes the output received from Project Cars 2?
    I think quite the opposite actually... Isn't the settings on the wheel itself like an override of what the wheel receives from pcars2?
    So how can changing SHo to zero prevent any clipping in the project cars 2 FFB output?

    OFFTOPIC: Jesus christ, people with the Fanatec CSL Elite PS4 version are so !@#*& at this moment.
    GT Sport gives no FFB at all... Seems like every game we are looking forward to and that states to be compatible isn't compatible at all at release. Pff...
    Last edited by The_Flurk; 09-10-2017 at 14:21.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrBeasa View Post
    I could be wrong but i believe 'SHo' is only used if the wheel rim your using has rumble motors built in i.e the BMW GT2 or Porsche 918 rim. If your using the P1 rim then this setting will have no effect at all as it doesn't have the rumble motors.
    I actually don't know what SHo does honestly. I have it at zero so it doesn't cause clipping by doing whatever it does. I tried it at 100 after seeing this post and didn't feel a difference. But if it's adding signal it could cause clipping.
    Last edited by Krus Control; 09-10-2017 at 15:41.

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    Quote Originally Posted by The_Flurk View Post
    Can you please actually prove that changing the FFB settings on the wheel changes the output received from Project Cars 2?
    I think quite the opposite actually... Isn't the settings on the wheel itself like an override of what the wheel receives from pcars2?
    So how can changing SHo to zero prevent any clipping in the project cars 2 FFB output?

    OFFTOPIC: Jesus christ, people with the Fanatec CSL Elite PS4 version are so !@#*& at this moment.
    GT Sport gives no FFB at all... Seems like every game we are looking forward to and that states to be compatible isn't compatible at all at release. Pff...
    On PC Changing the FF, For, drI, SPr, dPr all have a direct effect on the FFB delivery. I can't speak for how it works on a PS4 as I do not own a PS4. But on PC you need to configure all of your wheel settings the same as mine to get the same feel.

    Edit: And if you want to test if the settings are working just turn FF or For to zero and if you get no force then you know they're working. But FF and For should always be at or over 100.
    Last edited by Krus Control; 09-10-2017 at 15:40.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Krus Control View Post
    On PC Changing the FF, For, drI, SPr, dPr all have a direct effect on the FFB delivery. I can't speak for how it works on a PS4 as I do not own a PS4. But on PC you need to configure all of your wheel settings the same as mine to get the same feel.

    Edit: And if you want to test if the settings are working just turn FF or For to zero and if you get no force then you know they're working. But FF and For should always be at or over 100.
    I don't think you understand what I'm saying.

    FFB is much like a soundwave, think of it as a basic sine wave.
    The wave is created in PCARS2 (software) -> PC/PS4 (hardware) -> firmware (wheel) -> actual wheel movement (FFB output).
    If you change stuff on the wheel itself, you'll change the output or the wave after it is received from the software.
    At least, that's how I assume how it works?? So how can changing settings on the wheel prevent clipping in the software?
    Or am I missing something? I'm unsure...
    Maybe you're right, maybe the firmware sends it back to the software and it gets recalculated again with specific firmware settings, I really don't know, just curious if you know for sure. I think you should validate it using the FFB graph in PCARS telemetry. If I change settings on the wheel's firmware, this doesn't change anything on the graph for me, on a PS4.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by The_Flurk View Post
    I don't think you understand what I'm saying.

    FFB is much like a soundwave, think of it as a basic sine wave.
    The wave is created in PCARS2 (software) -> PC/PS4 (hardware) -> firmware (wheel) -> actual wheel movement (FFB output).
    If you change stuff on the wheel itself, you'll change the output or the wave after it is received from the software.
    At least, that's how I assume how it works?? So how can changing settings on the wheel prevent clipping in the software?
    Or am I missing something? I'm unsure...
    Maybe you're right, maybe the firmware sends it back to the software and it gets recalculated again with specific firmware settings, I really don't know, just curious if you know for sure. I think you should validate it using the FFB graph in PCARS telemetry. If I change settings on the wheel's firmware, this doesn't change anything on the graph for me, on a PS4.
    Any FFB wheel only receives FFB never transmits. Buttons /switches are no FFB signal.
    System: Win 10 Pro , i7 8700k, MSI Z 370 Pro, 16 GB ram Gigabyte GTX 1080,, Fanatec CSW V2.5 (FW 317, Driver 292), CSP V2, Buttkicker/SimVibe

    PC 2 - Custom Files here: http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/sho...=1#post1358152
    PC 1 - V3.1.1 - FFB Tweaker Files here: http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/sho...l=1#post891198

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by The_Flurk View Post
    I don't think you understand what I'm saying.

    FFB is much like a soundwave, think of it as a basic sine wave.
    The wave is created in PCARS2 (software) -> PC/PS4 (hardware) -> firmware (wheel) -> actual wheel movement (FFB output).
    If you change stuff on the wheel itself, you'll change the output or the wave after it is received from the software.
    At least, that's how I assume how it works?? So how can changing settings on the wheel prevent clipping in the software?
    Or am I missing something? I'm unsure...
    Maybe you're right, maybe the firmware sends it back to the software and it gets recalculated again with specific firmware settings, I really don't know, just curious if you know for sure. I think you should validate it using the FFB graph in PCARS telemetry. If I change settings on the wheel's firmware, this doesn't change anything on the graph for me, on a PS4.
    Imagine it like an audio equalizer built into speakers. You receive the signal and then alter it slightly with EQ so it's more to your liking.

    This is like what is happening with the in wheel settings. The wheel receives the signal and alters it with the settings and that is what is delivered.

    This is not a perfect analogy. Also somebody pointed out to me in another thread that if you run FF or For under 100 you will get less dynamic range. It's actually really complicated the way the in wheel settings work and I honestly don't fully understand. But I think it's like the EQ analogy.

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