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Thread: Need help Radical SR8 at Donington

  1. #1
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    Need help Radical SR8 at Donington

    Im having much trouble with the Radical SR8 at Donington. Im on console with gamepad (yep, I know its not the best situation but harder things have been achieved... I played rFactor long time ago with my gamepad in some leagues with decent results, so Im not smashing buttons or keeping the throtle at max everytime...).

    The problem comes at the fast left hander (turn 3) before the old hairpin. Im using the stable setup as a base. Calibrated brake power and bias (60:40 at 60%) and full downforce (2 on front, 10 on rear). That left hander is making me crazy... the rear of the car keeps overtaking me. Ive softened the rear bar to the min and the rear keeps getting tailhappy on the left hander (even without power applied, just turning in).
    Ive played with the steering sensitivity and the steering ratio with no results... and the onboard engineer seems clueless.
    Taking some experimenting with the power and coast angles on the differentials with no visible results...

    The car seems too nervous on the steering, and mass transfer on that left hander is killing me...

    Any advice?

  2. #2
    GT5 Pilot blinkngone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tahlendorf View Post
    Im having much trouble with the Radical SR8 at Donington. Im on console with gamepad (yep, I know its not the best situation but harder things have been achieved... I played rFactor long time ago with my gamepad in some leagues with decent results, so Im not smashing buttons or keeping the throtle at max everytime...).

    The problem comes at the fast left hander (turn 3) before the old hairpin. Im using the stable setup as a base. Calibrated brake power and bias (60:40 at 60%) and full downforce (2 on front, 10 on rear). That left hander is making me crazy... the rear of the car keeps overtaking me. Ive softened the rear bar to the min and the rear keeps getting tailhappy on the left hander (even without power applied, just turning in).
    Ive played with the steering sensitivity and the steering ratio with no results... and the onboard engineer seems clueless.
    Taking some experimenting with the power and coast angles on the differentials with no visible results...

    The car seems too nervous on the steering, and mass transfer on that left hander is killing me...

    Any advice?
    Hi Tahlendorf, sorry it's giving you a hard time. I can look up some PC tunes for you but first I would try reducing your brake sensitivity to 30 and maybe your throttle to 40 then run stable default. If you are already at reduced sensitivity let me know. I've yet to personally run this car/track combo but maybe someone else has and will see your post. Also which Donnington, GP or National?
    Bikes wrecked-77 Suzuki RM125, 78 Honda Elsinore 250, 81 Honda CB900F, 2000 Kawsaki ZX12R(2), 2001 Honda F4I, 2005 Yamaha R1. A bike hasn't been made I couldn't wreck, spectacularly, but I'm retired now.

  3. #3
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    It seems you are on the same race in career mode as me :-). I had have same problems but I created a setup with jussis setup calculator which was a big improvement especially in that corner. There are some physical discrepancy in the default setups on dampers and also on spring in my opinion. I also realized also in my case, that after loading a default setup, the differential is never activated. if you activate it even with default settings, there is quite a much stable driving possible. Power bar F/R = 10/0, if you still have problems with sudden oversteer, reduce rear bump and decrease front rebound on dampers side. I got also better general feel by increasing the tire pressures. I'm driving with the Radical 1.02.6 min at donington at the moment which is on equal level with difficulty on 85%. Good luck

  4. #4
    GT5 Pilot blinkngone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thydney1970 View Post
    It seems you are on the same race in career mode as me :-). I had have same problems but I created a setup with jussis setup calculator which was a big improvement especially in that corner. There are some physical discrepancy in the default setups on dampers and also on spring in my opinion. I also realized also in my case, that after loading a default setup, the differential is never activated. if you activate it even with default settings, there is quite a much stable driving possible. Power bar F/R = 10/0, if you still have problems with sudden oversteer, reduce rear bump and decrease front rebound on dampers side. I got also better general feel by increasing the tire pressures. I'm driving with the Radical 1.02.6 min at donington at the moment which is on equal level with difficulty on 85%. Good luck
    Thanks, thydney1970. Could you post your setup or would you want me to do it? He is on console and can't share a setup.
    Bikes wrecked-77 Suzuki RM125, 78 Honda Elsinore 250, 81 Honda CB900F, 2000 Kawsaki ZX12R(2), 2001 Honda F4I, 2005 Yamaha R1. A bike hasn't been made I couldn't wreck, spectacularly, but I'm retired now.

  5. #5
    GTE Pilot hkraft300's Avatar
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    Increase steering ratio.

    Increase power ramp angle.

    Stay on the gas to keep weight (therefore grip) on the rear.

    It's much harder on a controller than a wheel to hang/ catch subtle slides.
    "Slow is smooth, smooth is fast."
    G29 settings (PC1).
    G29 FFB RAW 100-55-5-5

  6. #6
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    blinkngone, where and how can we share setups here? do we both share?

    regarding differential, I set the diff as follows Preload 40NM/Acc. Ramp 55/Dec. Ramp 25/4 Clutches which makes a stable acceleration/braking possible and it's fine for my style. I also look more on tyre pressure than the temperatures. If pressure is in the correct window, then tire temperature is secondary as long as the tyres are not blown up (mid temp highest).
    Last edited by thydney1970; 19-10-2017 at 22:43.

  7. #7
    GT5 Pilot blinkngone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thydney1970 View Post
    blinkngone, where and how can we share setups here? do we both share?

    regarding differential, I set the diff as follows Preload 40NM/Acc. Ramp 55/Dec. Ramp 25/4 Clutches which makes a stable acceleration/braking possible and it's fine for my style. I also look more on tyre pressure than the temperatures. If pressure is in the correct window, then tire temperature is secondary as long as the tyres are not blown up (mid temp highest).
    Hi thydney, you and I can share because we are on the same platform(PC). If you go to Time Trial when you see the gear and wrench that means it is a tuned setup. You click on add ghost then select from the run/setup you want to see or use. Then it will take you to another screen asking "add ghost" click it and the ghost will be underneath your car. Click start, then when the track loads on your right you will see "Loaded Ghosts" click the blue gear/wrench. The set up will load in your tuning menu. You should save it and rename "new" never overwrite. We can't share with consoles which is why I do set up pictures for them. Maybe the OP will have enough information from your posts to get him up running.
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    Here is a link to roger Prynne's post on sharing.
    http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/sho...-people-online
    Last edited by blinkngone; 19-10-2017 at 23:19.
    Bikes wrecked-77 Suzuki RM125, 78 Honda Elsinore 250, 81 Honda CB900F, 2000 Kawsaki ZX12R(2), 2001 Honda F4I, 2005 Yamaha R1. A bike hasn't been made I couldn't wreck, spectacularly, but I'm retired now.
    The following user likes this Post: drizzit


  8. #8
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    Ive tried something with the Jussi's Suspension Calculator and has improved something, also applied the differential values Thydney put.
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    Aso Ive put the braking and throtle sensitivities as blinkngone suggested. Mines were even lower. Little changes noted here.
    With the suspension calculations Ive been able to take turn 3 flat with the ideal line. Im not coming too close to the apex because the interior curb is devilish, if you touch it the car face violently to the inside and major spin...
    But oversteer when exiting turns 7 and 8 have appeared with the changes.

  9. #9
    GT5 Pilot blinkngone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tahlendorf View Post
    Ive tried something with the Jussi's Suspension Calculator and has improved something, also applied the differential values Thydney put.
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    Aso Ive put the braking and throtle sensitivities as blinkngone suggested. Mines were even lower. Little changes noted here.
    With the suspension calculations Ive been able to take turn 3 flat with the ideal line. Im not coming too close to the apex because the interior curb is devilish, if you touch it the car face violently to the inside and major spin...
    But oversteer when exiting turns 7 and 8 have appeared with the changes.
    Hi, I don't run an LSD like you have, it may be good, I just don't run it that way. When I have the Geared and Clutch LSD on I turn the ramps off(90). Maybe it works like you have it on the SRX 8 but I couldn't get it to work for me on GT3 and 4.
    I think your camber is way off for this track.
    Here are some setup pages from the #1 Radical at Donninton National see the camber and LSD?
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    Bikes wrecked-77 Suzuki RM125, 78 Honda Elsinore 250, 81 Honda CB900F, 2000 Kawsaki ZX12R(2), 2001 Honda F4I, 2005 Yamaha R1. A bike hasn't been made I couldn't wreck, spectacularly, but I'm retired now.

  10. #10
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    I have driven my time in career training offline only for the moment but i will give a try tonight in time trial��. I‘m quite happy with my diff settings but i‘m driving with higher tire pressures to achieve a hot pressure of around 24 psi and as already written yesterday. But thank you all for the additional inputs and jussis calculator is a must have for setting up any car in my opinion. This guy is just amazing!

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