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Thread: What can you tell from my telemetry?

  1. #1
    Kart Driver
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    What can you tell from my telemetry?

    One for the tuners.

    I'm trying to get into tuning to increase my lap times. I'm a sucker for just jumping in a stock tune because I just want to race but this is heavily reflected in my lap times.

    Using the picture below taken after about 6-7 laps what can I learn from
    the telemetry data and how should I use that information to tune.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The car is the NSX GT3

    Track is Redbull ring

    Tyre pressures are 31 psi up front and 32 at the back

    Brakes are reaching 600 degrees celcius when hard on the anchors.
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  2. #2
    Kart Driver
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    Telemetry can tell you a lot - but only if you look at multiple signals as a function of time or distance. Just one data point on a straight is not very revealing.

  3. #3
    Kart Driver
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    Nothing that I can see. At this point, you have to start thinking about the following:

    What is turn-in behavior like?

    What is mid-corner behavior like?

    What is corner exit behavior like?

    Do you feel understeer at any point? What about oversteer? When you feel this, what are you doing with the brakes or throttle?

    The rest of suspension tuning is all about changing the car's behavior at specific times. If you're getting oversteer on corner exit, but the car is well-balanced on turn-in and mid-corner, you would consider lowering rear slow bump. If the car is loose everywhere, you can raise the front spring rates or lower the rear ride height. Etc etc

    Here's a good chart for shocks. The adjustments in the chart are referencing slow bump (also called compression) and slow rebound. Those are for the range of shock velocities where you're cornering. Fast bump and rebound settings are for behavior over kerbs and bumps. Reduce fast rebound/compression if you're getting loose over kerbs.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    You generally use springs and ride height to change the car's average balance throughout the entire corner. Additional rear ride height compared to the front will make the car more loose, but should also add more downforce. Hopefully this works in-game but I haven't tested it.

    Front sway bar adjusts turn-in and mid-corner behavior, rear sway bar adjusts mid-corner and corner exit behavior.


    Pick a setting, such as spring rates, and make wide adjustments to one setting, either the front or rear. Then go out and test it and see the difference it makes. When playing with settings to see what helps or doesnt help, always make big changes to only one setting at a time, then go out and test it and see what it does.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 161-008-Tech-ShockTuning-ShockDynoChart-702x267.jpg  

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  4. #4
    GT3 Pilot
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    Quote Originally Posted by Benkid View Post
    One for the tuners.
    The car is the NSX GT3
    Track is Redbull ring
    Tyre pressures are 31 psi up front and 32 at the back
    Brakes are reaching 600 degrees celcius when hard on the anchors.
    If your brakes go over 600C, then open up the brake ducts, otherwise your braking distance will suffer. Don't worry about opening the ducts, they do not affect speed in PC2.
    Also the current suggestion is to have lower "hot" pressures for the GT3s, around 26 psi.
    The following 2 users likes this Post: hkraft300, Ravager619


  5. #5
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    Personally, I would run less camber. I like the outside and middle temps to be close to the same and the inside temp a little hotter.
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  6. #6
    LMP2 Pilot hkraft300's Avatar
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    Lower tire pressures, target ~1.8 hot (~28-29 psi?). 2.2 bar is too high.

    Try the soft slicks: if that's your temps after 6-7 laps you're not running them hot enough at that track in those conditions. Looks cool enough for softs. That's what I run at red bull ring.

    Also a bit more rear ride height for some rake.
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  7. #7
    Superkart Pilot Ravager619's Avatar
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    I'd open up the brake ducts a little. Anything over 600 degrees is too high if you're doing a race. At some point, you'll experience brake fade. I'd also be concerned about the camber. I noticed the tire temps are about 11-12 degrees hotter on the insides. If you're running Time Trial or a five lap race you're fine. But if you're doing a longer race you'll likely wear out the inner part of the tire first and your lap times may drop significantly due to the change in handling.

  8. #8
    Moderator Bealdor's Avatar
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    The brakes are not too hot. The brake temp sensor is in a different location than in PCARS 1 and the brake fade model is also greatly improved.
    General rule of thump is to have ~300C when you start to brake. It's not a big problem if the sensor shows you 800C for a short time after braking.

    Your tires are too cold. Depending on the track temp I'd switch to soft slicks. A little bit less pressure could help too.
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  9. #9
    LMP2 Pilot hkraft300's Avatar
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    Would the 10 temp difference be a bad thing at Red Bull ring? There are short straights between the slow corners through sector 1/2. I'd say the camber is OK.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bealdor View Post
    The brakes are not too hot. The brake temp sensor is in a different location than in PCARS 1 and the brake fade model is also greatly improved.
    General rule of thump is to have ~300C when you start to brake. It's not a big problem if the sensor shows you 800C for a short time after braking.
    This I didn't know. Steel brakes don't feel too good to me above ~600℃ though (once it hits that temp in the brake zone) in GTE/3 cars. I may be running them too cold in the group C cars, they feel faded at ~500℃ peak in the Jag. Might close the ducts.
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  10. #10
    Handling QA Lead Jussi Karjalainen's Avatar
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    Brake discs moved to a more detailed model since pCARS 1, they now have separate surface and core temperatures (a bit like the tyres). In some longer braking situations you might see the brakes shoot up first and then cool down a bit even though you're still braking due to the wheels slowing down and heat migrating deeper into the discs. Overall I'd say you don't want them to flash up too much, the steel discs are at their best somewhere in the 600 C region, you probably don't want them hitting 700 for extended periods (peaking there quickly doesn't really matter). Carbon brakes are another story though.

    Surprising to hear that the ducting doesn't affect speed, it definitely should, need to look into this if it really is a problem.

    And yeah as bealdor said your tyres are quite cold, especially if that's after multiple laps. Either selecting a warmer season or trying out the softs could help. Tyre pressures are also quite high, you'd normally want to aim for about 1.8 bar when hot in the GT3 cars.

    Rake isn't really easily deducible from a still image like that, you should focus on rake adjustments on smooth tracks (Mojave Cougar Ridge is probably the best for that).
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