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Thread: BMW M6 GT3 TUNE!

  1. #1
    Superkart Pilot
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    BMW M6 GT3 TUNE!

    I'm not a Tuner.. Can anyone help me with a good balanced tune, please?
    The following user likes this Post: Laserbeak43


  2. #2
    Superkart Pilot Nyreen's Avatar
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    You should learn how to tune a car. Not because I don't want to help, but the BMW is very different from track to track and is highly influenced by the tuning. Just trying different downforce settings change everything, so imagine with the whole car tuned up.

    Quick Monza laptimes are ran with 0:2 aero, the M6 is almost undriveable then but that's how you can be able to get below 1:46.5.

    Like everyone, I start with the default loose and the thing is to notice every little handling detail that you don't like about the car and tune it up. I don't know how you drive, thus I don't know how (and where, on a tuning perspective) you're upsetting the car when you beat the crap out of it on the track. Can you give more details ?

  3. #3
    SMS Staff Matt York's Avatar
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    Depends on the track for a balanced tune, but a base that I use and that I find works for me in the M6 GT3:
    - Take Stable Setup
    - Keep brake bias between 58-60 (default is 60).
    - Use the following for aero balance; if front aero is 0, have the rear at 2-5 / if the front aero is 1, have the rear between 4-6, if the front aero is at 2, have the rear between 5-8. The default aero is 0 front, 6 rear. Depending on the track, you will want to adjust with obviously low downforce tracks with front at 0, medium downforce 1, and then tighter or twistier tracks with not much in the way of high speed straights should be front aero at 2, with the rear in the ranges to suit depending on personal preference so you get some nice rotation but the car isn't just breaking away from you at high speeds.
    - Change Bump Stop values to 0, pretty much always.
    - Change Engine Braking to 4 or 5. Makes first gear more useable in heavy braking and turning in, as I find that low engine braking values has too much engine braking, and dropping down that extra gear when I may need it could lock the rear diff and/or unsettle the car.
    - Traction Control Slip 14-16.
    - Reduce diff preload to 80-90, and have clutch plates set to 4. I believe the defaults are 100 for preload, and either 4 or 6 for clutch plates.

    That's what I use as a baseline for pretty much every track in the M6. From there, individual tuning of tyre pressures, brake ducts, ARB's, suspension, camber, dampers, and aero depending on the track. Hopefully that helps

  4. #4
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    Thanks. I'll be working with that very shortly!

  5. #5
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    Incredible! I'm performing so much better! The sad part is, I couldn't tell you why...

  6. #6
    SMS Staff Matt York's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Laserbeak43 View Post
    Incredible! I'm performing so much better! The sad part is, I couldn't tell you why...
    I can, so I shall break it down so you get a better understanding of what is happening

    Quote Originally Posted by Matt York View Post
    Depends on the track for a balanced tune, but a base that I use and that I find works for me in the M6 GT3:
    - Take Stable Setup
    So obviously, as the name suggests, the Stable setup is more stable than the loose one. For me personally, the Loose setup is too loose on the M6 GT3, as it just oversteers everywhere. I have no trust in the car and have to drive it so much more cautiously through the corners that I'm not attacking them and can't extract the performance out of the car. There's some differences too, in that the Loose setup has 1-5 wings (front - rear) and the Stable has (0 - 6). The 1 wing on the front will have quite an impact on the aero performance, giving you better cornering performance but increasing drag and making you slower in a straight line, something you don't want at Monza. You don't need a front wing that high, and just need a rear wing that is low enough to get the high straight line speeds, but stop the car from rotating in high speed corners.

    Quote Originally Posted by Matt York View Post
    - Keep brake bias between 58-60 (default is 60).
    Stability, as above, the brake bias being further forward gives you better stability under heavy braking. If you lock the brakes with it further forward, you're just going to understeer, rather than locking the wheels and oversteering into the corner and having to fight and correct the car before turning in costing valuable time. It's safer, and you can therefore push more.

    Quote Originally Posted by Matt York View Post
    - Use the following for aero balance; if front aero is 0, have the rear at 2-5 / if the front aero is 1, have the rear between 4-6, if the front aero is at 2, have the rear between 5-8. The default aero is 0 front, 6 rear. Depending on the track, you will want to adjust with obviously low downforce tracks with front at 0, medium downforce 1, and then tighter or twistier tracks with not much in the way of high speed straights should be front aero at 2, with the rear in the ranges to suit depending on personal preference so you get some nice rotation but the car isn't just breaking away from you at high speeds.
    As mentioned above, high wing angles aren't needed at Monza due to the straights. For other tracks, having the right aero balance front to rear allows the car to do what you want it to do in the medium to high speed corners.

    Quote Originally Posted by Matt York View Post
    - Change Bump Stop values to 0, pretty much always.
    This greatly improves stability and responsiveness in the car. The more Bump Stop you have in, the bigger and therefore the softer they are. They get engaged sooner as the suspension moves and have a bigger impact on the handling making it feel soft and wollowy. You only really need them for preventing the car from bottoming out which isn't frequent unless you're on an extremely bumpy track in the M6. Smaller Bump Stops are stiffer, and allow for more suspension movement before being engaged, so if you do ever want to use Bump Stops, making them as small as you can so they don't effect the cars handling through a corner too much. Depending on the track, I tend to find I'll gain a couple of tenths up to a second if not more, just by removing them. The car just feels so much better in terms of response to inputs and feedback, that I can trust it more and attack corners.

    Quote Originally Posted by Matt York View Post
    - Change Engine Braking to 4 or 5. Makes first gear more useable in heavy braking and turning in, as I find that low engine braking values has too much engine braking, and dropping down that extra gear when I may need it could lock the rear diff and/or unsettle the car.
    Another stability change. Upping the value here will mean that you bleed off speed slower as there isn't as much engine braking, but again with the added stability you're able to be more aggressive in the latter phases of your braking and downshifting into the tighter corners like hairpins or the tight chicanes. This is especially noticeable into T1 at Monza, where the heavy braking there and the downshifting into 1st gear as you turn in could lead to the rear axle locking up with lower engine braking values, and causing the car to rotate on you as you turn in. As the engine braking is weaker up at 4 or 5, the effect isn't as strong and the diff is less likely to lock up and cause the car to rotate on you. Again, more stability = more trust = more attacking of corners. Also, it being a higher value means you can carry more speed through corners when off throttle. Corners such as the first of the two Lesmo's and the Parabolica, you may want to hold some of your speed through the corner when off throttle, depending on your driving style. As lower values make you bleed speed more, it's good for hooking and pulling the car into the apex, but at times you may actually want to carry the speed through the corner and not lose it when off-throttle, which higher values help with.

    Quote Originally Posted by Matt York View Post
    - Traction Control Slip 14-16.
    Less interference from the traction control system. It allows for more wheel slip which allows for more translation of power through the wheels onto the tarmac which gives better acceleration, this is of course providing they're not spinning up and wheel spinning out of corners. Obviously, it requires you to have more finesse on the loud pedal so you don't break traction and wheelspin, but if you get it right, you'll be able to accelerate out of corners better than if you had a ton of traction control managing the wheel spin for you.

    Quote Originally Posted by Matt York View Post
    - Reduce diff preload to 80-90, and have clutch plates set to 4. I believe the defaults are 100 for preload, and either 4 or 6 for clutch plates.
    This gives better maneuverability. It gives you less understeer off-throttle, and less oversteer on-throttle, and smoothens out the diff locking effects when going from on-throttle to off-throttle, or off-throttle to on-throttle which helps in keeping the car settled going into, through and out of corners. This is obviously within certain balances, as going too low is also detrimental.

    So all in all, what you're doing is obviously making the car a bit quicker in terms of it's outright performance across a lap, but also greatly increasing it's stability. With that, then comes your ability to trust the car, and push it more to attack the corners, which providing you can do within moderation and don't overdrive the car or unsettle it, it will keep the car within it's optimum performance range in terms of tyre and brake temperatures to give better performance over an extended period of time and longer race stints.

  7. #7
    Superkart Pilot Jetsun's Avatar
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  8. #8
    Superkart Pilot Nyreen's Avatar
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    Of course, note that everything can be tweaked to suit your driving the best. For example, I prefer having my engine braking set at maximum (0) and blip for 2nd and 1st gear. I like it when there's more "driving" involved. Also, the bump stop value is quite random, sometimes it's better at 0, and on some cars 15/10 works the best. I say random because I just don't understand anything about the Jussi's tab lol
    The following user likes this Post: Laserbeak43


  9. #9
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    Solid Gold. Thank you so much guys!

  10. #10
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    Thanks for the info, Matt. How much of that (especially your second post) is specific to the M6 and how much is universal for other GT3 cars?

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