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Thread: Difficulty with high powered cars

  1. #11
    GT3 Pilot blinkngone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rmb24 View Post
    Ok , tried your set up for this car and it’s alot more manageable.. still a handful but very much headed in the right direction.

    I do have a question about damping though. When they mention about increase and decrease. Which way is increasing? Smaller numbers or larger.. I would assume larger is increasing but I could be mistaken
    Are you talking about the Race Engineer? Increasing(making the suspension harder/stiffer) would be the larger number.
    Bikes wrecked-77 Suzuki RM125, 78 Honda Elsinore 250, 81 Honda CB900F, 2000 Kawsaki ZX12R(2), 2001 Honda F4I, 2005 Yamaha R1. A bike hasn't been made I couldn't wreck, spectacularly, but I'm retired now.

  2. #12
    Kart Driver rmb24's Avatar
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    My bad ,I meant the bump and rebound. Springs I know what direction I need to go to stiffen or loosen

  3. #13
    Moderator Bealdor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rmb24 View Post
    My bad ,I meant the bump and rebound. Springs I know what direction I need to go to stiffen or loosen
    Higher numbers will increase the damping, i.e. get you closer to critical damping condition.
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  4. #14
    Kart Driver rmb24's Avatar
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    Alright for example then. If I have my bump at lower number setting, the wheel wil will go up into the wheel well slower and if I have a higher number rebound , the wheel will come back down to the road surface faster

    Am I right on that then ?

  5. #15
    GT3 Pilot blinkngone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rmb24 View Post
    Alright for example then. If I have my bump at lower number setting, the wheel wil will go up into the wheel well slower and if I have a higher number rebound , the wheel will come back down to the road surface faster

    Am I right on that then ?
    I am not positive but if you have the slow bump lower the wheel will go up into the wheel well more quickly. I think you are correct about the rebound.

    Have you checked out the Sticky yet?
    http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/sho...xplain-dampers
    Last edited by blinkngone; 06-04-2018 at 14:01.
    Bikes wrecked-77 Suzuki RM125, 78 Honda Elsinore 250, 81 Honda CB900F, 2000 Kawsaki ZX12R(2), 2001 Honda F4I, 2005 Yamaha R1. A bike hasn't been made I couldn't wreck, spectacularly, but I'm retired now.

  6. #16
    Kart Driver rmb24's Avatar
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    Ok, I just wanted to make sure I understood correctly. When I adjusted settings in forza 6 they had a bar look below that they had softer and stiffer under that, so you didn’t get as confused as to what way you had to go.

  7. #17
    Kart Driver rmb24's Avatar
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    Ok, it’s been about 2 patches since I initially posted. I thought possibly that since they put out some fixes with tire grip that I would have better luck driving the higher HP cars , the group 5 cars, Group C etc. unfortunately I still have difficulty. I don’t know if it’s the Xbox one version since I’ve read there are cases of instability of the older concole with this game than There is with the one X or Pc.

    In general I feel like I can’t get up to speed with them . If I give too much throttle I am all over the place with loads of oversteer. If I am careful with the throttle I am 10+ seconds off pace with the rest of the grid. I have tried testing in a practice session and while in career. Currently I am using the Nissan 280zx

  8. #18
    GT3 Pilot blinkngone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rmb24 View Post
    Ok, it’s been about 2 patches since I initially posted. I thought possibly that since they put out some fixes with tire grip that I would have better luck driving the higher HP cars , the group 5 cars, Group C etc. unfortunately I still have difficulty. I don’t know if it’s the Xbox one version since I’ve read there are cases of instability of the older concole with this game than There is with the one X or Pc.

    In general I feel like I can’t get up to speed with them . If I give too much throttle I am all over the place with loads of oversteer. If I am careful with the throttle I am 10+ seconds off pace with the rest of the grid. I have tried testing in a practice session and while in career. Currently I am using the Nissan 280zx
    Hey, here is another thread on controller settings. http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/sho...=1#post1517865

    Opposite lock needs to be off. The 6.0 patch tires are easier to control than the 5.0 patch tires so here at least you are better off. The Datsun 280 ZX isn't exactly an easy car to drive.

    EDIT, sorry, I forgot you are using a wheel. It's been a while and I am old. Where is your throttle/steering/brake sensitivity set at?

    Ok, is this the car? I ran this one for a lap.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by blinkngone; 10-06-2018 at 21:12.
    Bikes wrecked-77 Suzuki RM125, 78 Honda Elsinore 250, 81 Honda CB900F, 2000 Kawsaki ZX12R(2), 2001 Honda F4I, 2005 Yamaha R1. A bike hasn't been made I couldn't wreck, spectacularly, but I'm retired now.

  9. #19
    Kart Driver rmb24's Avatar
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    They are all set on 50 and left them there. Since getting the new wheel (thrustmaster TMX) Its really expanded the game.

    That is the car I am driving. I would download a turn and try but I chose not to renew live membership due to crappy bandwidth available. I’m limited to dsl.. cable is an option but it’s way over priced for the locally owned provider than what xfinity offers which is cheaper then our locally owned cable company.

    Back to the car lol , what I have noticed I need to do is before shifting is let off the throttle and then shift or the car really likes to bite, usually around 2nd it does that other than that I don’t need to do that. Cornering can be tough at times. Back end likes to come around. I have tried adjusting anti-roll on the front and rear. Along with spring stiffnes.

    I really enjoy the older cars but sometimes they are quite a handful. So I don’t want to throw in the towel and give up. I am not the most knowledgeable when it comes to tuning. If I get understeer I focus on the front and when oversteer I look at the rear. Having a better understanding of what parts of the car to tweak and when would be useful. For instance ARBs would you adjust them for mid corner only ? Are dampers for corrner entry and exit.. stuff like that.
    Last edited by rmb24; 10-06-2018 at 22:41.
    System: Xbox One
    Wheel: Thrustmaster TMX w/ default pedals

  10. #20
    GT3 Pilot blinkngone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rmb24 View Post
    They are all set on 50 and left them there. Since getting the new wheel (thrustmaster TMX) Its really expanded the game.

    That is the car I am driving. I would download a turn and try but I chose not to renew live membership due to crappy bandwidth available. I’m limited to dsl.. cable is an option but it’s way over priced for the locally owned provider than what xfinity offers which is cheaper then our locally owned cable company.

    Back to the car lol , what I have noticed I need to do is before shifting is let off the throttle and then shift or the car really likes to bite, usually around 2nd it does that other than that I don’t need to do that. Cornering can be tough at times. Back end likes to come around. I have tried adjusting anti-roll on the front and rear. Along with spring stiffnes.

    I really enjoy the older cars but sometimes they are quite a handful. So I don’t want to throw in the towel and give up. I am not the most knowledgeable when it comes to tuning. If I get understeer I focus on the front and when oversteer I look at the rear. Having a better understanding of what parts of the car to tweak and when would be useful. For instance ARBs would you adjust them for mid corner only ? Are dampers for corrner entry and exit.. stuff like that.
    Ok, so we have the same car, if you can I would like you to switch to Silverstone National, it's the only track I can drive. If you are not using Default setups then you can't just assume that understeer is related to the front only when you start adjusting and the same for oversteer. All the components are working together along with your driving inputs. Try driving the track using one of the Default setups and let me know how you do. If it is too much of a handful I'll give you my setup and you can try that then we can work together to make adjustments, if you have time.
    Track. The 1st rightEDITED is Copse, high speed, start easing on the brake at the 100 marker on your left, not too much, it is easy to lock the brakes making you think it is understeering but it's not, your brakes are locking. Next up is Beckett's, same here, slow early or you will lock up and run wide left instead of going properly right onto the Wellington straight. Next is Brookland's , this is really key to running a good lap, you want to be able to run almost on the inside curbing without getting a penalty in order to setup Luffield, again this is imperative to stay close to the inside curbing or you will run wide on exit. At Woodcote you want to be toward the inside as you enter the Start/finish straight.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Ok, I was able to improve my time a little, lots of throttle feathering and better braking. Oh, I tried Soft tires but with the new color palette the inside/lefts quickly turned dayglo yellow. I switched to hards and even these are a problem.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by blinkngone; 11-06-2018 at 00:06.
    Bikes wrecked-77 Suzuki RM125, 78 Honda Elsinore 250, 81 Honda CB900F, 2000 Kawsaki ZX12R(2), 2001 Honda F4I, 2005 Yamaha R1. A bike hasn't been made I couldn't wreck, spectacularly, but I'm retired now.

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