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Thread: Difficulty with high powered cars

  1. #21
    Kart Driver rmb24's Avatar
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    Yeah I can run that.. right now I am tied up with family stuff.. 3 Kiddos eats up a lot of time lol . But . I’m familiar with it.

    I have noticed the lock up with that car.. and others. If lock up and the rear comes around I know I have too much to the rear. So I will put more on the front but then I usually end up locking up and skid through the corner. I have the same issue with other cars , not all of them though.
    System: Xbox One
    Wheel: Thrustmaster TMX w/ default pedals

  2. #22
    GT3 Pilot blinkngone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rmb24 View Post
    Yeah I can run that.. right now I am tied up with family stuff.. 3 Kiddos eats up a lot of time lol . But . Iím familiar with it.

    I have noticed the lock up with that car.. and others. If lock up and the rear comes around I know I have too much to the rear. So I will put more on the front but then I usually end up locking up and skid through the corner. I have the same issue with other cars , not all of them though.
    Cool, no rush, family time is first. Here is my setup, I haven't adjusted Brake bias yet. I think Default has the Boost at only 70%. TBH on PC we all pretty much suck with this car. In general we are multiple seconds behind a GT3 such as the Audi R8 LMS at many tracks because the more tight turns at a track the more difficult it is to tame this beast and there hasn't been much interest shown in trying to figure it out. 5 seconds behind at Sugo for example.

    http://cars2-stats-steam.wmdportal.c...cle=3406832937

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    Bikes wrecked-77 Suzuki RM125, 78 Honda Elsinore 250, 81 Honda CB900F, 2000 Kawsaki ZX12R(2), 2001 Honda F4I, 2005 Yamaha R1. A bike hasn't been made I couldn't wreck, spectacularly, but I'm retired now.

  3. #23
    Kart Driver rmb24's Avatar
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    Alright took the 280zx out for a spin. I ran 10 laps with my set up in which I didnít change drastically from default and put up a 56.819 as my fastest.

    Went back to the pits and put in all the info from the screen shots you attached and managed to put up a very slightly faster time of 56.095

    So after running both set ups I couldnít tell the difference of which one felt better. The boost was more noticeable with your settings so which made 2nd gear kick even more around 8000rpm
    System: Xbox One
    Wheel: Thrustmaster TMX w/ default pedals

  4. #24
    GT3 Pilot blinkngone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rmb24 View Post
    Alright took the 280zx out for a spin. I ran 10 laps with my set up in which I didn’t change drastically from default and put up a 56.819 as my fastest.

    Went back to the pits and put in all the info from the screen shots you attached and managed to put up a very slightly faster time of 56.095

    So after running both set ups I couldn’t tell the difference of which one felt better. The boost was more noticeable with your settings so which made 2nd gear kick even more around 8000rpm
    Ok. Previously you had been running the 70% Default boost, if the kick is bothering you try going down to 85% and see if you like that better. As far as the boost goes I only picked up 2 tenths with the boost from 70% to 100% because of the limited straights so going back to 70% isn't going to be where you are losing most of your time. How are you doing with the braking? Is that still one of your biggest issues? Is there any particular corner that is giving you the most trouble?
    Last edited by blinkngone; 12-06-2018 at 09:04.
    Bikes wrecked-77 Suzuki RM125, 78 Honda Elsinore 250, 81 Honda CB900F, 2000 Kawsaki ZX12R(2), 2001 Honda F4I, 2005 Yamaha R1. A bike hasn't been made I couldn't wreck, spectacularly, but I'm retired now.

  5. #25
    GT3 Pilot blinkngone's Avatar
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    Alright, I changed the setup a little, went back to 70% boost, changed the Brake bias to 52/48, changed the rear bump transition from 435 down to 240. Made an adjustment to the LSD. I was able to make up for the reduced acceleration from lower boost by improving corner entry.
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    Ok, this car doesn't have TC or ABS(as far as I know). Make sure you have all steering and braking assists off and set Stability control to Authentic so it can be used on the Road cars that have it.
    When braking try to start earlier with less pressure to avoid locking up and don't completely left off the brake, keep slight pressure until you are ready to accelerate. Early and easy is best.

    On PC there were only 5 runs made, the one in the middle is 0:55.240 +0:00.697. As for my time I think it is pretty good but I don't know for sure, let's assume I am slower than I should be by 5 tenths so a good run with this car could be 54.000. If you can get within 2% of a WR you are doing well in my opinion so for a goal if you can manage a 55.08 that is great.

    Another car in the same class is the Ford Zakspeed Capri with a WR at 0:53.666 the BMW 320 Turbo WR is a 0:51.958.
    Last edited by blinkngone; 12-06-2018 at 11:15.
    Bikes wrecked-77 Suzuki RM125, 78 Honda Elsinore 250, 81 Honda CB900F, 2000 Kawsaki ZX12R(2), 2001 Honda F4I, 2005 Yamaha R1. A bike hasn't been made I couldn't wreck, spectacularly, but I'm retired now.

  6. #26
    Kart Driver rmb24's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blinkngone View Post
    Ok. Previously you had been running the 70% Default boost, if the kick is bothering you try going down to 85% and see if you like that better. As far as the boost goes I only picked up 2 tenths with the boost from 70% to 100% because of the limited straights so going back to 70% isn't going to be where you are losing most of your time. How are you doing with the braking? Is that still one of your biggest issues? Is there any particular corner that is giving you the most trouble?
    If i get on the breaks too long the rear eventually comes around, I try to nail my breaking point around the 100 meter point. With this car i am down shifting a gear first then apply breaking, because if i apply break and downshift the also comes around. So that downshift one gear and then steady on the break with threshold technique seems to work the best.



    Quote Originally Posted by blinkngone View Post
    Alright, I changed the setup a little, went back to 70% boost, changed the Brake bias to 52/48, changed the rear bump transition from 435 down to 240. Made an adjustment to the LSD. I was able to make up for the reduced acceleration from lower boost by improving corner entry.
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    Ok, this car doesn't have TC or ABS(as far as I know). Make sure you have all steering and braking assists off and set Stability control to Authentic so it can be used on the Road cars that have it.
    When braking try to start earlier with less pressure to avoid locking up and don't completely left off the brake, keep slight pressure until you are ready to accelerate. Early and easy is best.

    On PC there were only 5 runs made, the one in the middle is 0:55.240 +0:00.697. As for my time I think it is pretty good but I don't know for sure, let's assume I am slower than I should be by 5 tenths so a good run with this car could be 54.000. If you can get within 2% of a WR you are doing well in my opinion so for a goal if you can manage a 55.08 that is great.

    Another car in the same class is the Ford Zakspeed Capri with a WR at 0:53.666 the BMW 320 Turbo WR is a 0:51.958.
    All assists are set to authentic , as well as no steering or breaking assist either.

    I also made some minor adjustments to your set up after watching the instant replay of my lap. I noticed that the front end was dipping a lot and seemed to be bottoming out so i raised the front spring rate about 2 clicks. I also adjusted the break bias to 61 to the front to help with stopping and was helping.

    The Zakspeed Capri is a car i'm familiar with as i used it a lot when i was playing forza 6 before PC1 was released. Was going to run a lap with that before i jumped off but it was getting late and needed sleep to get up for work this morning lol. Hope fully i can get a chance to jump on tonight and apply those settings you suggested.
    System: Xbox One
    Wheel: Thrustmaster TMX w/ default pedals

  7. #27
    GT3 Pilot blinkngone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rmb24 View Post
    If i get on the breaks too long the rear eventually comes around, I try to nail my breaking point around the 100 meter point. With this car i am down shifting a gear first then apply breaking, because if i apply break and downshift the also comes around. So that downshift one gear and then steady on the break with threshold technique seems to work the best.






    All assists are set to authentic , as well as no steering or breaking assist either.

    I also made some minor adjustments to your set up after watching the instant replay of my lap. I noticed that the front end was dipping a lot and seemed to be bottoming out so i raised the front spring rate about 2 clicks. I also adjusted the break bias to 61 to the front to help with stopping and was helping.

    The Zakspeed Capri is a car i'm familiar with as i used it a lot when i was playing forza 6 before PC1 was released. Was going to run a lap with that before i jumped off but it was getting late and needed sleep to get up for work this morning lol. Hope fully i can get a chance to jump on tonight and apply those settings you suggested.
    Ok, based on your observations I tried the increase in spring rate but this caused me too much of a front end slide through Becketts(on this corner, to get it set up properly, I need to be able to use the curbing on the left a little and the stiffer springs would spin me out here). Brooklands as well I was sliding which really can impair the corner entry and this makes the car more sensitive to the curbing through here and Luffield. Instead I increased the front slow bump which will slow the bounce you noticed. I adjusted my brake bias to 58 since you seem more comfortable with front bias and I was able to improve my time slightly so we can run more similar setups.
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    Last edited by blinkngone; 12-06-2018 at 13:31.
    Bikes wrecked-77 Suzuki RM125, 78 Honda Elsinore 250, 81 Honda CB900F, 2000 Kawsaki ZX12R(2), 2001 Honda F4I, 2005 Yamaha R1. A bike hasn't been made I couldn't wreck, spectacularly, but I'm retired now.

  8. #28
    Kart Driver rmb24's Avatar
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    see in my way of thinking I would of changed the front's bump transition or rebound rather than the slow bump. From what i can remember the games description is that the slow bump is driver input rate. Not saying you are incorrect. Certain parts of the car i can remember what does what but damper settings i still have to go back a re-read how they work.. I'm still learning
    System: Xbox One
    Wheel: Thrustmaster TMX w/ default pedals

  9. #29
    GT3 Pilot blinkngone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rmb24 View Post
    see in my way of thinking I would of changed the front's bump transition or rebound rather than the slow bump. From what i can remember the games description is that the slow bump is driver input rate. Not saying you are incorrect. Certain parts of the car i can remember what does what but damper settings i still have to go back a re-read how they work.. I'm still learning
    Yes, slow bump and rebound is driver and fast is road. But if my inputs are causing the problem then I adjust those, if my input is too fast with the reduced slow bump then I will cause the front to lose grip. I am not always a solution as a driver but also part of the problem. If the problem wasn't mostly with me I could just run Default and I'd be fine like the better drivers. Too stiff springs can cause problems as well causing the tire to easily lose contact with the road. I haven't adjusted the Bump Stops yet, the cars seem to move too much but this car has more Bump Stops at 30/35 than other cars in the class. The 935s, BMW 320 Turbo and the Zakspeed are all at 0 Bump stops front and rear. With this car and the 30/35 stops we have reduced the suspension travel, I don't know if this is good or bad yet. I never liked the way the Group 5 cars pogo around the track which is why I have avoided them and don't watch replays much. At some tracks they actually bury the front splitter/air dam into the surface on replays. If we get rid of the Bump Stops then you will most likely enjoy the replays even less. Heck we might even run out of ground clearance.

    I made a quick run with the Zakspeed at 0:54.119 +0:00.453. I am quicker with the BMW at 0:53.040 +0:01.082 but further from the WR.
    Zakspeed Bump Stops.
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    With the Datsun the Slow Bump Default is 8400 and I have only increased it a little bit, which I think is better than increasing the springs, to get it to turn better which is what I think you are trying to do. I haven't even come close to the maximum value.
    Bump maximum.
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    See the notes from the Engineer off to the side? "It controls the dynamic weight transfer and the overall motion of the main chassis relative to the track surface when the car turns, slows and accelerates." so if you don't like the up and down motion we can go higher here. I know you remember the first sentence.
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    Last edited by blinkngone; 12-06-2018 at 18:09.
    Bikes wrecked-77 Suzuki RM125, 78 Honda Elsinore 250, 81 Honda CB900F, 2000 Kawsaki ZX12R(2), 2001 Honda F4I, 2005 Yamaha R1. A bike hasn't been made I couldn't wreck, spectacularly, but I'm retired now.

  10. #30
    Kart Driver rmb24's Avatar
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    If I get a chance later tonight i’ll run some laps with the Zakspeed and see how I do. I was watching videos from the SafeIsFast’s YouTube channel on oversteer understeer amd one that covered damping and was also very helpful as well.

    I think my biggest issue is trying to determine how to fix oversteer or understeer the easiest of all the ways to fix them when I come across them. Other than fix the end that has the issue, figuring out what to look at or adjust first is what I wanna achieve
    System: Xbox One
    Wheel: Thrustmaster TMX w/ default pedals

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