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Thread: The "how an Italian Coupe turned into a French one and a Japanese sedan" thread

  1. #3141
    WMD Member Invincible's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Christiaan van Beilen View Post
    So I won't be paying the extra 11 Euro to let them do the interior next time, I'll do it myself.
    If you want something done properly, do it yourself or pay big money for a pro

    Quote Originally Posted by Christiaan van Beilen View Post
    Heck, I even asked them to clean around the rear wiper washerfluidfillercap (is that one word? If so a nice one for Hangman. ) but they didn't.
    You have a separate washer fluid reservoir in the back of the car? Never seen that before. All my cars only had one under the hood which fed front and rear nozzles. And my current car doesn't even have a rear windshield wiper, so no rear nozzle (I uninstalled it )

    Just saw that:
    Quote Originally Posted by Konan View Post
    Quick update:

    GLS have done it again...No delivery on Friday,in fact the package is still in transit from Germany (again).Everything on schedule in Poland,the sending reaches Germany and BAM!no movement...
    @Bealdor,are you delaying stuff just to juice up this thread?
    I admit, I had to chuckle, but I doubt that it is Bealdor harassing you. Stuff going from Poland through Germany to Belgium just deserves closer inspection
    Last edited by Invincible; 18-11-2019 at 09:28.
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  2. #3142
    Moderator Konan's Avatar
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    Well ain't that a pleasant surprise... Expected delivery was supposed to be Dec 7th:
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    AN OUTLAW MIGHT GIVE IN TO DESTINY BUT HIS LEGEND LIVES ON FOR ETERNITY!
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  3. #3143
    WMD Member Invincible's Avatar
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    At least a few good things
    But somehow I doubt that it is made of Aluminum and I also have my doubts regarding the brand...
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  4. #3144
    Moderator Konan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Invincible View Post
    At least a few good things
    But somehow I doubt that it is made of Aluminum and I also have my doubts regarding the brand...
    How can i check if it's aluminum?
    It feels cold to the touch and sounds right when tapping it with a fork, unlike the one i bought for the Fiat.
    Isn't MOMO a well known brand? I thought they made steering wheels as well?
    AN OUTLAW MIGHT GIVE IN TO DESTINY BUT HIS LEGEND LIVES ON FOR ETERNITY!

  5. #3145
    WMD Member Invincible's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Konan View Post
    How can i check if it's aluminum?
    It feels cold to the touch and sounds right when tapping it with a fork, unlike the one i bought for the Fiat.
    Isn't MOMO a well known brand? I thought they made steering wheels as well?
    Idk how to check other than drilling into it. From the looks, I'd say its some sort of cast resin.
    And yeah, Momo is a well known brand. But your's doesn't quite fit into their lineup. Take a peek here https://momo.com/en-gb/products/shift-knobs-eu/ and I think you'll know what I mean.
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  6. #3146
    WMD Member Christiaan van Beilen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Invincible View Post
    If you want something done properly, do it yourself or pay big money for a pro


    You have a separate washer fluid reservoir in the back of the car? Never seen that before. All my cars only had one under the hood which fed front and rear nozzles. And my current car doesn't even have a rear windshield wiper, so no rear nozzle (I uninstalled it )
    Yeah, but we all have those days when we just get a little bit lazy.

    Yeah, I have one in the rear. Never had that before either though, but I think it is done for weight distribution.
    With my 4 inline engine the battery is up front and I have a 50/50 weight distribution, with a 6 inline it is in the back to achieve the same. Yet if the reservoir up front was bigger to accommodate for the extra fluid that is now in the back you would get a 51/49 weight distribution to the front.
    Christiaan's Pure FFB (latest version: v1.03): http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/sho...ARS2-FFB-File)

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  7. #3147
    Moderator Konan's Avatar
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    AN OUTLAW MIGHT GIVE IN TO DESTINY BUT HIS LEGEND LIVES ON FOR ETERNITY!

  8. #3148
    WMD Member Christiaan van Beilen's Avatar
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    Almost looks like like 3D printed silicone, which was directly printed onto that paper.

    I hope you can get it on there nicely and that it sticks. Although I would do it after a nice long drive with the AC on, so that the moisture is mostly out of the car and off of the surfaces.
    Or at least I'd fear that this could interfere with the how well the glue adheres.
    Christiaan's Pure FFB (latest version: v1.03): http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/sho...ARS2-FFB-File)

    Nicknames elsewhere on the web (incl. Steam, XBN, PSN, etc): LogiForce or LogiForce86

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    Input: Logitech Wingman Formula Force - Logitech G25 - Thrustmaster T500 RS - Thrustmaster TH8 RS - Fanatec ClubSport Wheel - Fanatec ClubSport Pedals V1 & V2 - Fanatec ClubSport Shifter SQ - Fanatec ClubSport BMW M3 GT2 rim - Fanatec ClubSport Formula rim (*italic = in use)

  9. #3149
    Moderator Konan's Avatar
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    I'm planning on removing the parts that need to be done. Temp has to be 15C or above and the pieces need to be warmed up with a hairdryer... Will be easier to do on the table.
    AN OUTLAW MIGHT GIVE IN TO DESTINY BUT HIS LEGEND LIVES ON FOR ETERNITY!
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  10. #3150
    WMD Member Christiaan van Beilen's Avatar
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    Okay guys, I am at a loss on what to do. I just watched this video and in the information below the video they said the vibration happened due to worn bearings on the input-shaft of the gearbox. Which makes sense to me in hindsight. Let me go over my issues.

    1. I only get a skipping clutch when the engine is cold but not necessarily at all time.
    2. When the skipping (not slipping) occurs than the car judders like an driving student who just got in the car with his driving instructor, but almost stalls the engine doing so.
    3. As the components heat up and I've operated the clutch 3 to 5 times the skipping stops, but not always. Sometimes it keeps happening a little.
    4. When it does work the clutch operation is flawless with no bite issues at all.
    5. When I apply significantly more throttle on engagement the skipping stops and good clutch engagement can be achieved. You are looking like an old grandpa or grandma that'll floor the throttle and slowly releases the clutch though, plus you end up doing a race start almost and look like a complete Jackass on the public road. On top of that you can't always do this, traffic jams or just having to drive off of a roundabout slowly because pedestrians are still crossing the zebra crossing.

    My guess is that depending on the temperature and so on that the bearing balls/rollers shrink enough to cause enough play for the input-shaft to sag and go off-center. This causes an unbalance which affects the clutch friction plate not seating flat against the flywheel as it engages either. As the bearings heat up and expand the tolerance becomes small and to a degree re-centers and 'balances' the input-shaft, and sometimes this happens sooner and sometimes later. If it has found its balanced center again it stops acting up until everything cools down again. Yet it doesn't always have to find its balance.
    As an IT guy I am comparing it to a broken computer fan. If shaft is bent or the bearings are worn out the fan vibrates audibly, but as it spins for a while it slowly balances out as the components heat up and tolerances reduce. In fact I have such a 200mm fan in my HAF-X case right now that I never got around to replacing thinking 'ah.. i'll do it when it goes completely'.

    So my guess is I don't need a new clutch or flywheel, but I need a gearbox revision or a new gearbox. Yet when I do that they always say that you might as well do the other stuff right away. YIKES! My wallet!

    So to sum it up...
    a. Dualmass Flywheel + clutch kit + crankshaft seal behind the flywheel = 2500 euro incl. labor
    b. Transmission revision = 1200 euro OR New Transmission = 3000 euro


    So that's almost 4000 to 6000 euro if I'd do it all in one bloody go, and my suspicions are in the end correct. That's A LOT of money and I am wondering if it's still worth it, even if I could save up enough cash, or if I should just trade the car in.


    Last edited by Christiaan van Beilen; 20-11-2019 at 02:41.
    Christiaan's Pure FFB (latest version: v1.03): http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/sho...ARS2-FFB-File)

    Nicknames elsewhere on the web (incl. Steam, XBN, PSN, etc): LogiForce or LogiForce86

    System: Intel i7 2600k @ 4.2GHz - Noctua NH-D14 - MSI Z68A-GD65 (G3) - Vengeance LP 16GB 1600mhz - EVGA RTX 2080 XC ULTRA 8GB - AverMedia Live Gamer HD (1080p@30hz capture card) - OCZ Vertex 4 256GB (FW: 1.5) - Creative Soundblaster X-Fi titanium champ - Logitech Z-560 4.1 - LG OLED55B8PLA TV

    Input: Logitech Wingman Formula Force - Logitech G25 - Thrustmaster T500 RS - Thrustmaster TH8 RS - Fanatec ClubSport Wheel - Fanatec ClubSport Pedals V1 & V2 - Fanatec ClubSport Shifter SQ - Fanatec ClubSport BMW M3 GT2 rim - Fanatec ClubSport Formula rim (*italic = in use)

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