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Thread: Help With Fanatec V3 Pedal

  1. #1
    Kart Driver
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    Help With Fanatec V3 Pedal

    First off, my platform is the Xbox One X and my pedal setup is the Fanatec V3 inverted. Connected through a CSW 2.5 and the universal hub.

    Im most certain that this is a hardware or user problem and nothing to do with PC2. I see signs of the problem in my Fanatec Wheel property page while in PC mode and with the Xbox not connected in any way, shape, or form. I thought I may get more help in the PC section with the hardware side.

    I recently developed an issue where there is a slight amount of brake input while not pressing on the brakes. My quick work around was to either set a higher minimum setting on the Fanatec calibration or set a dead zone within PC2. I think this is just putting a band-aid on the situation though and was looking for some advice, thoughts, and input.

    When I enter the PC2 pedal calibration, Im seeing a steady input of 4 while not applying any brake. In my Fanatec setup page on my PC, I see a similar small amount of input but a very frequent flickering input. Im not ready to ship them off to Germany back to Fanatec quite yet.

    With there being a slight amount of already present brake input, when I go into setup or option menus, it just starts scrolling through stuff instantly as its seeing a LT button push I believe. Whats strange though, if I calibrate everything normally (without my band-aid fix), I dont see any brake input when not pressing brakes while in race on the PC2 graphs. Everything is normal while on track. Its just within the menus that it goes haywire.

    I have owned the game and all the same hardware since launch so this isn't a brand new setup problem. This is something that just popped up.

    Any help or suggestion is appreciated before I bite the bullet and send them on the long journey for Fanatec to look at.

  2. #2
    Moderator Sankyo's Avatar
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    The menus and in-game probably use different input filtering.

    You could contact Fanatec Support about the problem, it may be a problem with the load cell which then would not require the pedals to be sent back.
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  3. #3
    WMD Member MaximusN's Avatar
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    You can also lower the value of the BRK setting through the on-wheel menu. Default is 50 but that results IMHO in a much too weak pedal even on the normal V3 pedals. I think I have mine set at about 30. I had 'ghost pedal pressing' before adjusting the value too, after that never had it again. I really don't understand why 50 is the default, because at that time I thought my modded T3pa pro had a MUCH better pedal feel than a pedalset costing about as much as the whole T500rs setup it replaced.
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  4. #4
    Superkart Pilot justonce68's Avatar
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    I had this issue also and had to "deadzone" it out, i was also on Xbox, now using same pedals on PC not an issue.
    i7-8700k, liquid cooled, 1080Ti. Oculus Rift VR, Fanatec Clubsport V2.5, Universal Hub SQ Shifter, Pedals V3, GT Omega Pro cockpit
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  5. #5
    Superkart Pilot Juiced46's Avatar
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    I had this same issue on my CSL Elite pedals with load cell upgrade.

    If you are on the Fanatec config screen and pull the pedal back, does it show the input went away? Mine would. There is a very tiny bit of "play" in the pedal that would cause a bit of brake "drag" when no pedal pressure was applied. I ended up adding just a hair of minimum deadzone in the PC Fanatec config screen and all of my problems went away with no negative effect when braking in game that I can notice. I first noticed it was an issue when I was watching a reply and say my brake lights on when not braking.

    You can see it in these 2 videos that I made. First shows resting my finger on the pedal and its already applying input. I could not even rest my foot on the pedal it was extremely sensitive. You can see it on the laptop screen. I rest my finger on the pedal, the pedal is not even moving at this point and its registering input.



    2nd video is the play in the brake pedal ( I know they are not V3s but still the same issue) I am barely touching the pedal with my fingers and you can see the play. So all I did was dial out that bit of play in the Fanatec config menu

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  6. #6
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    Thanks guys for the responses. I haven't had much time lately. Sounds like I really don't need to worry about it.

    I did notice one thing though. Awhile back, I must have broken the grounding ring on the under side of the pedal when I was moving my pedal face into a more desired position for heel and toe. Never noticed it obviously because it's hidden. I'm guessing I was hitting it with a wrench or socket when I was tightening the pedal face down and never realized it. It's really just hanging on by a thread. Could the poor ground connection have caused the false inputs? I guess I'll find out when I get the ground wire connected properly.

  7. #7
    Superkart Pilot justonce68's Avatar
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    If you grab the pedal and pull it towards you , you will see that the input will disappear, its like the weight of the pedal is causing the input. nothing to worry about. As for the ground wire, no idea.
    i7-8700k, liquid cooled, 1080Ti. Oculus Rift VR, Fanatec Clubsport V2.5, Universal Hub SQ Shifter, Pedals V3, GT Omega Pro cockpit

  8. #8
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    The input actually does not disappear with the pedal being pulled back. That's one of the first things I tried. I'm not too worried about it I guess. It's easily dialed out through settings.

    My brilliant self was very precise on hiding wires and wire management. It has made hooking my laptop up to the CSW 2.5 a very difficult task. I most certainly need to buy another USB cable just for this purpose.

  9. #9
    Superkart Pilot Juiced46's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skcusIHC View Post

    My brilliant self was very precise on hiding wires and wire management. It has made hooking my laptop up to the CSW 2.5 a very difficult task. I most certainly need to buy another USB cable just for this purpose.

    I ran into the same issue when I had to connect back to mine
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  10. #10
    WMD Member PostBox981's Avatar
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    Hi guys,

    as the topic of this thread fits well to my issue Im gonna abuse it to report my pedals issue and hope for some input from you guys.

    Today I installed my Brake Performance Kit, 13 red +13 green giving me medium strength for a start. The brake pedal feels great now, but I dont get it properly calibrated anymore. When I apply some load on the pedal it reaches 100% in the software when I feel like I am at about 30-40% of what Id like to apply max. I then calibrate to my 100% load but it still stays like being on 100% signal when I am applying my 30 or 40% force on it, quite like I am "overloading" it to some 250% of its max when pushing it for calibration. I have to say I am not a very strong person so my personal 100% shouldn be too much for the load cell for sure. I tried about 30 times now but always get the same. Brake is at 100% when only applying a little pressure on it. So what I got from the kit so far is more or less the opposite I expected to get. I now have to break very very careful to not lock the wheels (different to what it was before without the kit), almost impossible to drive as I can hardly feel how much pressure I am applying.

    Could well be I borke something when reassembling the pedal. I had some trouble to reassemble the thin bolt that holds the break pedal bolt. So when I tried multiple times I didnt realise I was more or less ruining that thin cable that is running underneath the pedal up to the top of it. No idea what it is for as its got nothing to do with the load cell. Anyway, the cable is flattened underneath the break pedal bolt now. Could this lead to the above mentioned issue? If so, what parts do I need to replace?

    Just to complete this, the V3 is plugged into my v2.5 wheel base directly and also has been before. Any help from someone in the know would be highly appreciated. Thanks.

    Frank
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