View Full Version : Lets talk FFB PC, PS4, XBox1
Haiden... Fellow V2 wheel users... Did any 1 else Notice that the New Fanatec FW 176 beefed up the power of the V2??? It definitly has i used to use on wheel FFB at 75 but with the New FW i use 65.
I Noticed there is More feel in center of wheel...Ex:the up Hill off camber corner at Watkins i can feel it even more when im at the apex of the Hill as the weight shifts.... Laguna Seca the up Hill into the Down Hill Left Right also feels More Detailed as far as feeling the Car weight shift...Sooo Far No complaints about the FW. its definitly stronger with a Better More accurate wheel center feel...Nice.... I even Reset My Global settings and Recalibrated My wheel to confirm these findings... because we all know some times PCars settings just get outta wack No Rhyme or Reason.
The extra power the New FW added didnt show its self right away while Driving My usual Gt3 Ruf, it just felt like the wheel center was tighter and more Precise...I Really Noticed the FFB was Stronger driving the Classic Mustang... that car is Really Wild with alot of Body Roll and Sway... The weight Shift feel was soo Much stronger and more pronounced that i had a problem keeping it on the Track... Not a Bad thing i just Noticed it took more muscle to turn the wheel than i was used to using... i reduced the on wheel FFB to 65 and the FFB strength is back to Norm just with a tighter more precise wheel center...
When i say tighter wheel center i dont mean it like its Hyper sensitive, Twitchy or Unstable in any way...I Mean it in a Good way that you have more feel and better control.
I noticed the wheel being tighter and more responsive around center. Not sure about the increased power, though. I'm still running on wheel FF=95. I change rims a lot, depending on the car, so that might why I haven't noticed. But there's does seem to be a slight increase in fidelity and braking precision.
at this Rate when the Final V2 FW is Released its Looking Less Likely that i will be Rushing to get the TM DD wheel... I Know that DD wheels are supposed to be better but from what i feel with the V2 its hard to imagine Simulated FFB getting Much Better than it is espescially on Console.
Also when i installed the Drivers to my PC i checked the Signature... i think Fanatec may have a New company doing the wheel FW... Just a Random observation... But in any event it feels Good.
Edit: The TM wheel would have to get Raving reviews for Me to Rush to get it... at this point if it gets any better i may end up unemployed and Divorced!!!...Its getting Harder and Harder to Get Me outta My Man Kave...LOL!!!
With the Fanatec wheels as long as your belts are tight and Not Slipping the Loss of of detail seems to be Very Little... I have Not had to tighten my V2 belts yet but i know how... i had to tighten and adjust them on My CSR Elite its Not hard at all.
I don't think I'll get a TM DD wheel, unless the reviews are stark raving mad, Fanatec up and says they aren't going to make one, and TM starts making bigger rim options...LOL. I just don't like the small TM rims anymore. Once you get used to full size rims, it's hard to go back. I know there's a way to fix custom rims to a TM base, but RL rims are expensive, and they aren't made for the base. Put something too heavy on it, and you'll just be sacrificing fidelity and overworking your motor.
I'll wait to see what Fanatec does. I'm not in the market for another wheel right. Too many other things to add. When it comes time to upgrade the wheel, if I'm on PC and Fanatec doesn't seem to be coming out with anything, I'd look at some of the other DD wheels before TM.
Yes. Check the belt/motor bolts every so often to make sure they are still tight. Not a bad idea to notch the face either, so you know where they were set from factory. If they slip, it'll probably be gradual and you might not notice until they've moved a few millimeters.
Haiden/Grimey,
About the dd wheels for consoles. Remember according to sms the game is exactly the same on pc as it is on console except for graphical and obviously things like car count because of memory usage on consoles. So unless youre talking a high end dd wheel like accuforce that needs the pc it should be exactly the same on console. As long as the wheel is slightly stronger than what we have now and doesn't have belts or gears I don't see how it could possibly be bad. I would guess just losing the drivetrain would let you feel a lot more. No matter what you do when the motor changes direction there is going to be some wrap up in the drivetrain which equals lost detail. I guess we will find out for sure in the next few months.lol
I've heard this, too. But I've also heard people with PC and console say the FFB is more detailed/nuanced on PC. I've never played it on PC, but I know there's a definite difference in the feel of the FFB between PS4 and Xb1, so regardless of SMS' claim that they are the same, the FFB isn't being rendered the same. The same settings on Xb1 feel different on PS4, even when using a TX and T300, which are basically the same hardware.
Thrustmaster?lmao But in all seriousness id love to see a side by side comparison that is unbiased between our two wheels. Tell me what you cant feel. One by somebody on here would be believable. Not by one of the sim forums that get their stuff for free. They aren't going to ever say something sucks or some of the forces aren't there.
I really wish there was a brick and mortar store you could go to test these. I mean, some products you don't need to try to know if it's good, but a sim wheel is all about the feel. And it's personal--some may love a wheel that others hate and vice versa. It sucks having to make the purchasing decision based on specs and user feedback alone. :(
If I could have tried the wheels before purchase, I would have just bought a Fanatec to start. The price made me balk, because I figured, "Really? How much better can it be?" Even when I finally purchased the CSW, I was afraid that I had made a mistake, that it was only going to be a little bit better and not justify the cost. When I finally opened the box and got my hands on the pedals and the rims, I started feeling more confident about the purchase, because they're a lot sturdier and feel more realistic. But I wasn't completely comfortable until I turned it on and start running laps. It took all of 3 minutes to know I liked it better. If I could have tried them before buying, I would have known right away.
Thrustmaster?lmao But in all seriousness id love to see a side by side comparison that is unbiased between our two wheels. Tell me what you cant feel. One by somebody on here would be believable. Not by one of the sim forums that get their stuff for free. They aren't going to ever say something sucks or some of the forces aren't there.
I think the major FFB differences between my TX/T300 and my CSW-v2 is strength, fidelity, and smoothness. In fact, I think the smoothness is the first thing you notice. It's so smooth that it felt weird when I first switched. I think the CSW-v2 base also has better resolution than TMs, which equates to more precise steering.
The construction of the base, rims, and pedals isn't necessarily a direct part of the FFB, but I think you have to consider it, as well. Because how something feels in your hands or to your feet is just as important as the feedback you get from it. When I compare my setups as a whole--base, rim, and pedals. There's no comparison between the two setups. TM has solid hardware. Nothing wrong with it at all. But, IMO, I'm a better/capable driver when using the CSW-v2.
GrimeyDog
19-07-2016, 14:41
Hmmm... I wonder... Im Going to try the V2 on XB1 when i get Home... With the New FW the V2 Now identifies its self as a CSW V2 wheel instead of just a CSW....Because it Has Native XB1 support with the Hub Maybe the Auto FFB or FFB in General with the V2 wheel Has improved on XB1.
Using My Settings the XB1 FFB was Just about on Par with the PS4 i just Never took the Time to Really Fine Tune the GM FFB for XB1... Last Time i used the wheel on XB1.... PS4 and XB1 GM FFB were totally Different... XB1 was Much Much Stronger!!! I think with Proper Fine Tuning of the GM FFB they will be 1 to 1..... I had them 1 to 1 for a while up until update 6.0.... I always chose PS4 because the Graphics were better and More online Races.
Random thoughts:confused:
Anyone know how i would get this working with TM300 on PC? Spent the last few days reading guides & still havent a clue where to start with the wheel setting in game. I followed the advice ITT but obviously its for the CSW.
Anyone know how i would get this working with TM300 on PC? Spent the last few days reading guides & still havent a clue where to start with the wheel setting in game. I followed the advice ITT but obviously its for the CSW.
There's a lot of info in this thread, various different methods and based on personal preferences. If you don't feel like reading through it all and developing your own custom settings, you can browse this sites for T300 settings, and try them out.
http://pcars.oscarolim.pt/wheel-settings/browse
There's a lot of info in this thread, various different methods and based on personal preferences. If you don't feel like reading through it all and developing your own custom settings, you can browse this sites for T300 settings, and try them out.
http://pcars.oscarolim.pt/wheel-settings/browse
Thanks for that link, but i think they are for ps4 & xbox? Would it be different for pc? I will try & read through some more of this thread but tbh 500 pages will take me a very long time.
Thanks for that link, but i think they are for ps4 & xbox? Would it be different for pc? I will try & read through some more of this thread but tbh 500 pages will take me a very long time.
I would try my settings and just adjust the ffb master and wheel master like you normally would for pc. My new settings are towards the bottom on the oscarolim site. For best results use these with jacks car ffb settings.
I would try my settings and just adjust the ffb master and wheel master like you normally would for pc. My new settings are towards the bottom on the oscarolim site. For best results use these with jacks car ffb settings.
Can i clarify what FFB Strength is? is this set in the thrustmasters control panel?
Can i clarify what FFB Strength is? is this set in the thrustmasters control panel?
FF and TF are in the global configuration that you reach through Options>>Controls. They aren't on the same page, but, regardless how you set your other global settings, those two settings need to be balanced for your wheel and feel preference. TF is the amount/level of tire forces; FF is the strength/weight of the wheel.
Like Morpwr said, try the settings on that page and adjust the FF/TF balance to your liking. I'd recommend testing them out with Jack Spade's in-car settings. Whether or not you choose to continue using Jack's in-car settings down the road is up to you. But, IMO, it's really hard to get the in-car settings rights if your global settings are out of whack. So, to speed things along, use Jack's in-car settings for now, while you fine tune your global settings. Once you have the globals to your liking, then you can revisit the in-car settings.
Here's a link to Jack's settings. Since you're on PC, I think you can just load the files, instead of entering the settings manually for each car.
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?22938-Jack-Spade-FFB-Tweaker-Files&highlight=jack+spade
RobboCod
20-07-2016, 07:37
The game has reached a new level of enjoyment for me now. The ffb is damn great and driving ability is slowly increasing, even the ever important consistency. The AI even seems better. Fighting for positions up to last lap. I've been thoroughly enjoying racing recently. Just thought I would stick that in here for what it's worth. Hope everyone is experiencing the same. What a game it has become!
FF and TF are in the global configuration that you reach through Options>>Controls. They aren't on the same page, but, regardless how you set your other global settings, those two settings need to be balanced for your wheel and feel preference. TF is the amount/level of tire forces; FF is the strength/weight of the wheel.
Like Morpwr said, try the settings on that page and adjust the FF/TF balance to your liking. I'd recommend testing them out with Jack Spade's in-car settings. Whether or not you choose to continue using Jack's in-car settings down the road is up to you. But, IMO, it's really hard to get the in-car settings rights if your global settings are out of whack. So, to speed things along, use Jack's in-car settings for now, while you fine tune your global settings. Once you have the globals to your liking, then you can revisit the in-car settings.
Here's a link to Jack's settings. Since you're on PC, I think you can just load the files, instead of entering the settings manually for each car.
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?22938-Jack-Spade-FFB-Tweaker-Files&highlight=jack+spade
TF 75 & FFS 68 results in very week FFB for me. I do not like especially strong FFB but its hardly registering at those settings. I bumped FFB to 100 as its set to 75I in the windows profile. I have been using jacks setting for a while already but feel i could never really get the global setting right. I like how Morpwr setting has got rid of the deadzone on my wheel but there are some things i still need to fix. If i brake around a corner it causes the wheel to pull to centre. This feels odd to me. Should it not loosen as i lose grip? There doesn't seem to be a great deal of info regarding grip loss with theses settings. Also if i turn the wheel there should be more resistance that increases as you turn the wheel up to a point. What setting effect the amount of resistance when turning & how do you set how quickly that comes on?
TF 75 & FFS 68 results in very week FFB for me. I do not like especially strong FFB but its hardly registering at those settings. I bumped FFB to 100 as its set to 75I in the windows profile. I have been using jacks setting for a while already but feel i could never really get the global setting right. I like how Morpwr setting has got rid of the deadzone on my wheel but there are some things i still need to fix. If i brake around a corner it causes the wheel to pull to centre. This feels odd to me. Should it not loosen as i lose grip? There doesn't seem to be a great deal of info regarding grip loss with theses settings. Also if i turn the wheel there should be more resistance that increases as you turn the wheel up to a point. What setting effect the amount of resistance when turning & how do you set how quickly that comes on?
If I'm not mistaken on pc you set the game master ffb at 100 and just turn down your wheel ffb. Otherwise you are turning the ffb down twice. It should pull towards the center up until you lose traction. Because youre braking into a corner doesn't mean youre losing grip unless your sliding. If youre moving it will get heavier but not sitting still.
TF 75 & FFS 68 results in very week FFB for me. I do not like especially strong FFB but its hardly registering at those settings. I bumped FFB to 100 as its set to 75I in the windows profile. I have been using jacks setting for a while already but feel i could never really get the global setting right. I like how Morpwr setting has got rid of the deadzone on my wheel but there are some things i still need to fix. If i brake around a corner it causes the wheel to pull to centre. This feels odd to me. Should it not loosen as i lose grip? There doesn't seem to be a great deal of info regarding grip loss with theses settings. Also if i turn the wheel there should be more resistance that increases as you turn the wheel up to a point. What setting effect the amount of resistance when turning & how do you set how quickly that comes on?
There's plenty debate around FF/TF balance. It comes down to preference. Personally, I like to keep FF higher than TF and don't really like the feel when the balance favors TF. I'm running FF/TF at 95/75 now. My settings show FF=100, but with PS4/Fanatec, the @wheel FF overrides the game, like the PC driver control panel does in most wheels.
The brake feel you mention is also a preference thing. The reason it pulls toward center is because the resistance you feel in the wheel represents grip. The closer you get to the limit, the heavier the wheel gets. When you corner you consume grip. When applying the brakes while cornering, you're consuming additional grip. That's why the wheel gets heavier and pulls back toward center, because the grip limit has just been reduced, and you're now closer to it. At that point, if you keep turning the wheel, the tires will slip over the limit and the wheel will get lighter. Some people like to feel the affect of braking on grip, others don't. It also varies from car to car depending on the in-car settings. If Fy (the lateral forces) is too high, it will mask that feeling. I think (can't remember for sure) reducing Fx will reduce the braking feel. Again, it's all about preference. I like feeling the brakes, because knowing how much grip the brakes are consuming, gives me more control in corners and allows me to be more precise when I just want to brush the brakes or make a correction during the corner. Otherwise, it's very easy for me to overbrake.
Should it not loosen as i lose grip?
Yes, but not until you actually lose grip (go over the limit). The wheel gets heavier as you approach the grip limit.
Regarding the increase in tension as you tighten the wheel... IMO, PCars does have this, but it's not nearly as pronounced as it is in other games. I think this might have something to do with the fact that PCars isn't using canned effects, like other games. With canned effects, that type of response is easy to control. Regardless... it's never been a concern for me, because when I'm cornering, I'm more interested in feeling the grip levels than I am angle-related centering tension.
There's plenty debate around FF/TF balance. It comes down to preference. Personally, I like to keep FF higher than TF and don't really like the feel when the balance favors TF. I'm running FF/TF at 95/75 now. My settings show FF=100, but with PS4/Fanatec, the @wheel FF overrides the game, like the PC driver control panel does in most wheels.
The brake feel you mention is also a preference thing. The reason it pulls toward center is because the resistance you feel in the wheel represents grip. The closer you get to the limit, the heavier the wheel gets. When you corner you consume grip. When applying the brakes while cornering, you're consuming additional grip. That's why the wheel gets heavier and pulls back toward center, because the grip limit has just been reduced, and you're now closer to it. At that point, if you keep turning the wheel, the tires will slip over the limit and the wheel will get lighter. Some people like to feel the affect of braking on grip, others don't. It also varies from car to car depending on the in-car settings. If Fy (the lateral forces) is too high, it will mask that feeling. I think (can't remember for sure) reducing Fx will reduce the braking feel. Again, it's all about preference. I like feeling the brakes, because knowing how much grip the brakes are consuming, gives me more control in corners and allows me to be more precise when I just want to brush the brakes or make a correction during the corner. Otherwise, it's very easy for me to overbrake.
Yes, but not until you actually lose grip (go over the limit). The wheel gets heavier as you approach the grip limit.
Regarding the increase in tension as you tighten the wheel... IMO, PCars does have this, but it's not nearly as pronounced as it is in other games. I think this might have something to do with the fact that PCars isn't using canned effects, like other games. With canned effects, that type of response is easy to control. Regardless... it's never been a concern for me, because when I'm cornering, I'm more interested in feeling the grip levels than I am angle-related centering tension.
While i agree if you are mid turn breaking initially might make the wheel heavier maybe increase the resistance in the direction you turn the wheel I've never experienced a car irl actually turn the wheel the opposite way. It causes a problem when turning into a bend and i apply break at the same time as i turn the wheel it doesn't want to turn as its not a subtle effect. Also im sure i still get that pulling effect if the front has completely lost traction & is no longer turning but heading for the grass. If i can capture what parameter alters it i can see its better at reduced level for me its seems way to amplified for my tastes. In regards to the wheel getting heavy when turning wheel in regards to speed. Its very predominant in Assetto Cars but for me in that game its way too much, I turn the wheel 1 degree going fast in a straight line & its super heavy all of a sudden. that certainly not what im after. ATm i like how the wheel is smooth to turn (apart from when breaking) but need to feel the additional grip when turning it enough to cause that force rather than some canned effect. I wish i could just figure out these god damn parameters.
If I'm not mistaken on pc you set the game master ffb at 100 and just turn down your wheel ffb. Otherwise you are turning the ffb down twice. It should pull towards the center up until you lose traction. Because youre braking into a corner doesn't mean youre losing grip unless your sliding. If youre moving it will get heavier but not sitting still.
Thanks this seems to make more sense & the general forces seem more to scale now.
Ok so made a few changes & now (surprisingly) seem to be getting really close to how i need it it to feel, I've pretty much eradicated the pulling going into corners. The weight of the wheel for me is now spot on although still lacking the desired increase in weight i need when turning, it feels smooth & solid & more like an actual car wheel rather than a toy than I've ever had it. I think now if i can somehow increase the lower forces a bit without affecting everything else it will be perfect for me. I can start looking at the cars setting which are a bit easier to understand. The issue with that though (which brought me to this thread) is that should you really have anything other than default for each car? Im not sure what Jacks setting are based on in terms of feel for each car, I would hope SMS had some testing done in the real cars & went from there or its surely guess work?
Roger Prynne
20-07-2016, 20:40
^ Have you read everything in Jacks OP, especially this part...
Note, in all versions the core settings or ratio of forces are conform the laws of physics (SMS interpreted, human error included)
so they correctly mirror the carīs situation on any type of FFB wheel. As the side load forces are derived from different sources
(front/rear) their special mix balance determine the character of FFB feel. At this point the different versions may become a matter
of taste rather than wrong or right.
While i agree if you are mid turn breaking initially might make the wheel heavier maybe increase the resistance in the direction you turn the wheel I've never experienced a car irl actually turn the wheel the opposite way. It causes a problem when turning into a bend and i apply break at the same time as i turn the wheel it doesn't want to turn as its not a subtle effect. Also im sure i still get that pulling effect if the front has completely lost traction & is no longer turning but heading for the grass. If i can capture what parameter alters it i can see its better at reduced level for me its seems way to amplified for my tastes. In regards to the wheel getting heavy when turning wheel in regards to speed. Its very predominant in Assetto Cars but for me in that game its way too much, I turn the wheel 1 degree going fast in a straight line & its super heavy all of a sudden. that certainly not what im after. ATm i like how the wheel is smooth to turn (apart from when breaking) but need to feel the additional grip when turning it enough to cause that force rather than some canned effect. I wish i could just figure out these god damn parameters.
This is where FFB becomes more personal. There's not right or wrong, but some people want it to feel like a real car, some people want to maximize feedback for sim racing. A sim racing wheel isn't capable of feeling exactly like a real car, because it's just a wheel. A lot of the information you get from a car about what it's doing on the track doesn't come through the wheel. Since we're not in a real car or actually moving, sim developers do the best they can to get as much of those other sensations into the wheel, like SoP and rear end behavior. The tire model in SMS is based on the front wheel, so getting the rear end feeling into a sim rig, means you're feeling things you wouldn't normally feel in a real car, but are important to a sim racing because of all the real world sensations we lack. That's why some people, myself included, like to feel the brakes and other don't. I know I don't feel my brakes like that in a real car, but given how handicapped I'm in terms of usable sensory input in sim, I gladly welcome the brake feel. But that's the great thing about PCars' FFB system. If you don't like it, just dial it out. :)
Ok so made a few changes & now (surprisingly) seem to be getting really close to how i need it it to feel, I've pretty much eradicated the pulling going into corners. The weight of the wheel for me is now spot on although still lacking the desired increase in weight i need when turning, it feels smooth & solid & more like an actual car wheel rather than a toy than I've ever had it. I think now if i can somehow increase the lower forces a bit without affecting everything else it will be perfect for me. I can start looking at the cars setting which are a bit easier to understand. The issue with that though (which brought me to this thread) is that should you really have anything other than default for each car? Im not sure what Jacks setting are based on in terms of feel for each car, I would hope SMS had some testing done in the real cars & went from there or its surely guess work?
Jack custom in-car settings are designed to normalize the cars' individual models. The way they were designed the force to wheel weight ratios aren't consistent from car to car. It has nothing to do with RL mechanical differences. If you use the defaults for all the cars, then the same force that generates 1 kg of weight in one car, might generated .02 kg in another, and 0.7 in the next. Using the same in-car settings for all is very convenient and can be done, but it doesn't mitigate those modeling differences. Also, the default settings aren't really that good. They aren't terrible, but feel wise, they're pretty bland.
If you search this thread, Jack actually posted an much more detailed explanation for the individual in-car settings.
Again, there's no right or wrong with it. You just need to dial it in to your personal tastes, which sounds like what you're doing.
Ok so made a few changes & now (surprisingly) seem to be getting really close to how i need it it to feel, I've pretty much eradicated the pulling going into corners. The weight of the wheel for me is now spot on although still lacking the desired increase in weight i need when turning, it feels smooth & solid & more like an actual car wheel rather than a toy than I've ever had it. I think now if i can somehow increase the lower forces a bit without affecting everything else it will be perfect for me. I can start looking at the cars setting which are a bit easier to understand. The issue with that though (which brought me to this thread) is that should you really have anything other than default for each car? Im not sure what Jacks setting are based on in terms of feel for each car, I would hope SMS had some testing done in the real cars & went from there or its surely guess work?
If you just want to increase the lower forces a little bit id play with scoop reduction. Try lowering it one or two and see how it feels. It does change the feel slightly as with all of them its a compromise. Id start there and see how it feels but be careful changing them too much from there will result in losing grip feel especially on cold tires.
Ok so made a few changes & now (surprisingly) seem to be getting really close to how i need it it to feel, I've pretty much eradicated the pulling going into corners. The weight of the wheel for me is now spot on although still lacking the desired increase in weight i need when turning, it feels smooth & solid & more like an actual car wheel rather than a toy than I've ever had it. I think now if i can somehow increase the lower forces a bit without affecting everything else it will be perfect for me. I can start looking at the cars setting which are a bit easier to understand. The issue with that though (which brought me to this thread) is that should you really have anything other than default for each car? Im not sure what Jacks setting are based on in terms of feel for each car, I would hope SMS had some testing done in the real cars & went from there or its surely guess work?
If you just want to increase the lower forces a little bit id play with scoop reduction. Try lowering it one or two and see how it feels. It does change the feel slightly as with all of them its a compromise. Id start there and see how it feels but be careful changing them too much from there will result in losing grip feel especially on cold tires.
Also, check your deadzone. Check your deadzone. As the name suggests, any forces in that signal range (the lower end) aren't going to be transmitted to the wheel. You can dial it out using Deadzone Removal Range (DRR). You're running FF=100 now, but be aware, lowering FF will increase your deadzone. So if you dial it out with DRR, and then lower your FF, you might need to adjust your DRR.
Scoops (Knee and Reduction) are two settings you want to get sorted before you get too far with the others, because they have a lot of influence over the feel.
@Grimey - I think you're right. The FFB does feel a bit stronger with the new firmware. I finally noticed it last night when I hopped back in the FA.
GrimeyDog
21-07-2016, 11:02
WOW... Miss a day in here you Miss a whole Lot!!!
My FFB should work on PC the same way it does on console provided that the FFB in the Control panel is set according to wheel used.
Ok so made a few changes & now (surprisingly) seem to be getting really close to how i need it it to feel, I've pretty much eradicated the pulling going into corners. The weight of the wheel for me is now spot on although still lacking the desired increase in weight i need when turning, it feels smooth & solid & more like an actual car wheel rather than a toy than I've ever had it. I think now if i can somehow increase the lower forces a bit without affecting everything else it will be perfect for me. I can start looking at the cars setting which are a bit easier to understand. The issue with that though (which brought me to this thread) is that should you really have anything other than default for each car? Im not sure what Jacks setting are based on in terms of feel for each car, I would hope SMS had some testing done in the real cars & went from there or its surely guess work?
One other thing you can do too is play with the sk. I wouldn't move it more than one number higher or lower but it will slightly change what you feel. It effects how you feel grip mostly but it will also change the balance of forces slightly. If you are going to play with this id set it to my defaults and change sk first then go back and adjust the sr. I ended up going with the middle number as I said before a compromise between better grip and better road feel. I know you mentioned the increase in wheel weight. Remember it will be different depending on the car. Some just aren't as strong which is how they are. The other thing like Haiden said I think in a lot of cases the games exaggerated that effect. The next time you take a offramp or turn on the thruway pay attention the extra pull is there but its subtle. Obviously at higher speeds it will increase some but I think many expect it to be a lot more than it should be. Just my 2 cents. lol
WOW... Miss a day in here you Miss a whole Lot!!!
My FFB should work on PC the same way it does on console provided that the FFB in the Control panel is set according to wheel used.
Ive been wondering that myself and apparently now we know it does. Just set the pc ffb master to 100 and should be all set.
GrimeyDog
21-07-2016, 11:08
@Grimey - I think you're right. The FFB does feel a bit stronger with the new firmware. I finally noticed it last night when I hopped back in the FA.
The FFB is a tad bit stronger... you can feel it more in some cars than others...im getting used to the tighter wheel center so Now it doesnt feel like such a huge power step up but its definitly Noticeable with cars and tracks that you know Very well. The Brakes also seem a bit sharper as you Noted before...I took Notice of that last Night... End result is yhe FW feels better than the last 1.
Which a year later makes sense. All they did on the console was leave the game ffb master out that isn't used anyways on pc and left the wheel control panel ffb master. It just should have been labeled better so there wasn't so much confusion.
Shogun613
21-07-2016, 12:52
One other thing you can do too is play with the sk. I wouldn't move it more than one number higher or lower but it will slightly change what you feel. It effects how you feel grip mostly but it will also change the balance of forces slightly. If you are going to play with this id set it to my defaults and change sk first then go back and adjust the sr. I ended up going with the middle number as I said before a compromise between better grip and better road feel. I know you mentioned the increase in wheel weight. Remember it will be different depending on the car. Some just aren't as strong which is how they are. The other thing like Haiden said I think in a lot of cases the games exaggerated that effect. The next time you take a offramp or turn on the thruway pay attention the extra pull is there but its subtle. Obviously at higher speeds it will increase some but I think many expect it to be a lot more than it should be. Just my 2 cents. lol
The extra "pull" you feel when changing lanes on the highway is the effect produced by the variable effort steering sensor on the power steering pump. All new cars pretty much have this, but a lot of older cars didn't. The faster you went, the more loose the steering felt. It was kind of unsettling if you weren't used to not having any resistance in the wheel.
I know that I own a shop and still fix all of them. Ive got everything from a 68 gto to a 2005 vw here today. lol That extra pull is also from the weight shift when cornering even on old cars especially if youre turning and braking. The wheel weight will get heavier.
Shogun613
21-07-2016, 13:08
I know that I own a shop and still fix all of them. Ive got everything from a 68 gto to a 2005 vw here today. lol That extra pull is also from the weight shift when cornering even on old cars especially if youre turning and braking. The wheel weight will get heavier.
Yup, I was just talking about lane changing though. I almost crapped myself back in the day in my mom's '92 Dodge Caravan the first time I tried to do a quick lane change at 90+ MPH... Good times.😃
GrimeyDog
21-07-2016, 13:28
Which a year later makes sense. All they did on the console was leave the game ffb master out that isn't used anyways on pc and left the wheel control panel ffb master. It just should have been labeled better so there wasn't so much confusion.
Exactly... if the FFB/Global settings labeling and descriptions were better it would have been much easier to solve the FFB paradox... But i think all turned out for the Best because it truely made us dig deep and put More time into the settings to really understand what they all do...I dont think that My FFB would be sooo dialed in and fine tuned to my taste if we didnt have to sit and tweek with it like we did... in the end it made Pcars a Better Sim Racer for those that stuck with it.
Exactly... if the FFB/Global settings labeling and descriptions were better it would have been much easier to solve the FFB paradox... But i think all turned out for the Best because it truely made us dig deep and put More time into the settings to really understand what they all do...I dont think that My FFB would be sooo dialed in and fine tuned to my taste if we didnt have to sit and tweek with it like we did... in the end it made Pcars a Better Sim Racer for those that stuck with it.
Not sure who wrote those descriptions, but generally, the more complex the subject, the better it is to let someone other than the creators craft descriptions for the general user. It's incredibly difficult to explain things in lay terms when you've been working in an expert environment where everyone is on the same page.
It also didn't help ghat SMS, for some strange reason, refuses to fix a couple of descriptions that are wrong.
Yup, I was just talking about lane changing though. I almost crapped myself back in the day in my mom's '92 Dodge Caravan the first time I tried to do a quick lane change at 90+ MPH... Good times.��
92 caravan lol. You should try that in a 60s ford or Chrysler that you could steer with one finger. Not exaggerating there either. The old guys on here know what I'm talking about.
GrimeyDog
21-07-2016, 14:45
92 caravan lol. You should try that in a 60s ford or Chrysler that you could steer with one finger. Not exaggerating there either. The old guys on here know what I'm talking about.
This reminds Me of My 79 Buick Regal!!! I put a Worked Chevy 400 Small Block in it with a Positraction Rear End!!! Whoooa that thing was a Wild Ride... I could Kill a Set of Good Year Eagle Gt +4 tires in 1 Night at the Races!!! Disclaimer: Not admitting i Street Raced or anything but yeah... I could Kill a Set of tires in 1 Night with a Few Hard Launches:cool: LOL
Those American Muscle Cars were Not Built for Cornering Speed:no:
This reminds Me of My 79 Buick Regal!!! I put a Worked Chevy 400 Small Block in it with a Positraction Rear End!!! Whoooa that thing was a Wild Ride... I could Kill a Set of Good Year Eagle Gt +4 tires in 1 Night at the Races!!! Dusclaimer: Not admitting i Street Raced or anything but yeah... I could Kill a Set of tires in 1 Night with a Few Hard Launches:cool: LOL
Those American Muscle Cars were Not Built for Cornering Speed:no:
Ya I don't anything about that street racing stuff either.lol No reason to have a 2 stage nitrous kit on my supposed winter car.:rolleyes:
92 caravan lol. You should try that in a 60s ford or Chrysler that you could steer with one finger. Not exaggerating there either. The old guys on here know what I'm talking about.
Almost felt like sim racing with a TM 458 Spider (the non-FFB model)...LOL
Almost felt like sim racing with a TM 458 Spider (the non-FFB model)...LOL
We are showing are age when they think a 92 caravan is old.lol
We are showing are age when they think a 92 caravan is old.lol
Most of our interns weren't even born in 92. Crazy! LOL
Roger Prynne
21-07-2016, 21:04
I can remember the 'Horse and Cart' :uncomfortableness:
Shogun613
21-07-2016, 21:17
We are showing are age when they think a 92 caravan is old.lol
Shit, I thought I was old enough to use the word "they", lol!
GrimeyDog
22-07-2016, 08:32
Shit, I thought I was old enough to use the word "they", lol!
This is the Tech savy Old Geezer Gamer Group...alotta 40+ people in here.
There is actually a Web site "Geezer Gamers" for Mature Games.
This is the Tech savy Old Geezer Gamer Group...alotta 40+ people in here.
There is actually a Web site "Geezer Gamers" for Mature Games.
Lmao
I can remember the 'Horse and Cart' :uncomfortableness:
I still laugh when people brings cars in because they cant find anyone that can set points or actually knows how to fix a carb.
I had one of the coolest things the other night when I did get a chance to play for the first time in a couple weeks. I got a flat! Tire just blew out when I hit the rumble strips. Its even modeled right when youre driving on it. Pulls pretty hard to that side like youd expect.
Roger Prynne
22-07-2016, 12:24
I much prefer the points and carbs myself, was brought up on this stuff.
GrimeyDog
22-07-2016, 12:24
I had one of the coolest things the other night when I did get a chance to play for the first time in a couple weeks. I got a flat! Tire just blew out when I hit the rumble strips. Its even modeled right when youre driving on it. Pulls pretty hard to that side like youd expect.
I Never Got a Flat before... But i think while Driving the Old Lotus Hot dog looking F1 i Locked the Tires up and Could feel the Flat Spot from the Lock up.... But coulda just been My imagination:confused:
GrimeyDog
22-07-2016, 12:27
When i get off work i start a 2 week Vaction!!! Thats Gonna be a Pcars Mania Marathon!!!
We should organize some Races.
Morpwr Haiden do i have you on My PSN friend list??? any one that wants to Race send Me a Friend invite... My Tag is Grimey_Dog
Roger Prynne
22-07-2016, 12:28
Yeah there are flat spots built into the game, but they had to be 'dumb'd down' so as not to break your wheel and hands, plus it takes a lot of computing power as well.
Also I've had a few punctures now and then.
I Never Got a Flat before... But i rhink while Driving the Old Lotus Hot dog looking F1 i Locked the Tires up and Could feel the Flat Spot from the Lock up.... But coulda just been My imagination:confused:
Ive flat spotted them before. Another very cool feature! I think people forget how many really good features sms put in this game sometimes. The other thing is I don't think some realize what they are actually feeling and think its a glitch.lol
When im get off work i start a 2 week Vaction!!! Thats Gonna be a Pcars Mania Marathon!!!
We should organize some Races.
Morpwr Haiden do i have you on My PSN friend list??? any one that wants to Race send Me a Friend invite... My Tag is Grimey_Dog
You do. Same here I think in the last 3 weeks ive played 2 hours. Just haven't had time with helping my son with his house and everything else going on. So I'm getting some playing time in this weekend!
GrimeyDog
22-07-2016, 13:29
You do. Same here I think in the last 3 weeks ive played 2 hours. Just haven't had time with helping my son with his house and everything else going on. So I'm getting some playing time in this weekend!
I will Be on... Send Me a Race Invite and we can Race a Few... It would be Good to Race the Old Classic Mustang... Never Raced that Car online yet.
If you have time im in a Great Group of Mature Racers we practice every Wednesday and Race every Friday at 8pm Ny time... Practice opens at 7pm... Tonight is the Last series Race we been running the Gt4 Ginneta....if you want in Let Me Know.
We dont have disconnect issues.... All are Fast enough that the Races are Really Close and Exciting.
Haiden your invited to join in as well its Good Fun.
any 1 else who wants in let me Know i will get you in depending on spots left... I know we have a few open spots each week... its usually 10 to 12 guys each Race because some cant make it... were trying to get a full Grid.
Yeah there are flat spots built into the game, but they had to be 'dumb'd down' so as not to break your wheel and hands, plus it takes a lot of computing power as well.
Also I've had a few punctures now and then.
Definitely. When the game first released, I used to feel it a lot more. I was mostly driving the FA, and that's an easy one to lock up. I did notice that I wasn't feeling it as much later, but just assumed it was because I had gotten used to the car and wasn't locking them up like that anymore. Too bad they couldn't leave it as is. It would something that would definitely impair driving from that point, and might even force a driver to pit or, if they locked them up bad enough.
Ive flat spotted them before. Another very cool feature! I think people forget how many really good features sms put in this game sometimes. The other thing is I don't think some realize what they are actually feeling and think its a glitch.lol
Yep. It took me a few days to realize what it was. Can't recall feeling that in a racer before.
I will Be on... Send Me a Race Invite and we can Race a Few... It would be Good to Race the Old Classic Mustang... Never Raced that Car online yet.
If you have time im in a Great Group of Mature Racers we practice every Wednesday and Race every Friday at 8pm Ny time... Practice opens at 7pm... Tonight is the Last series Race we been running the Gt4 Ginneta....if you want in Let Me Know.
We dont have disconnect issues.... All are Fast enough that the Races are Really Close and Exciting.
Haiden your invited to join in as well its Good Fun.
any 1 else who wants in let me Know i will get you in depending on spots left... I know we have a few open spots each week... its usually 10 to 12 guys each Race because some cant make it... were trying to get a full Grid.
We're connected on PSN. I probably won't be on tonight, unless I get in early and don't feel too inebriated. :) But I'll be online a lot Saturday and Sunday. I'm usually on most weeknights for an hour or two, also.
That series sounds good. I saw you mention it before. I'm not really into the GT4 classes right now, but that will probably change today when Flat rim arrives and I start looking for H and sequential gearboxes to try the new shifter with. :)
Let me know what the next series car is.
Edit: Also, if I don't respond to an invite, I'm either racing, tuning, practicing, or it's someone else playing. The weekends, I'm usually more flexible and will jump from offline to online. But during the week, my time is more limited, so I usually stick to whatever I start (offline or online) for the hour or two that I'm playing. :)
Roger Prynne
22-07-2016, 14:14
Definitely. When the game first released, I used to feel it a lot more. I was mostly driving the FA, and that's an easy one to lock up. I did notice that I wasn't feeling it as much later, but just assumed it was because I had gotten used to the car and wasn't locking them up like that anymore. Too bad they couldn't leave it as is. It would something that would definitely impair driving from that point, and might even force a driver to pit or, if they locked them up bad enough.
Yep. It took me a few days to realize what it was. Can't recall feeling that in a racer before.
Try locking up hard a few times on purpose, and see what happens.
GrimeyDog
22-07-2016, 14:56
Tonights Race is the Gt4 Ginetta, Super Long Version of Hocken Heim!!! 45 min Race with pit stops. So far im in 3rd or 4th for points...Im thinking about My Race Stratagy Now.... Should i Keep some Aero on the Car and use the Speed advantage Getting through the Curves faster... Or Should i Take off Most of the Aero and Go for Straight Line Speed???
If I keep the Aero I can Draft and Keep up on Straights and Pull on them into and out of Corners .... Ex: Braking Harder and Later or Should i Sacrifise Cornering Speed and Cornering Stability for Staight Line Speed.
My Driving Style i like to Take a Bit at a time using Cornering Speed to My advantage... So yup you guessed it thats why i like the Gt3 Ruf sooo Much.
This is a Trick Track for Me i havent Raced it Much...
My Usual Syratagey is leave the aero i can Keep up as long as i Have Draft...take the Lead in the Corners and Cause the Faster straght line speed cars to over drive into the Next corner and im Gone!!! but some of these Guys dont Mess up and when they do its Not that Bad....
we Run Performance impacting Damage so them Rumble strips and off Road trips can really Hurt.
any suggestions?
Don't really know with GT classes. Also don't know your opponents, but with open wheel, I'd say, don't underestimate the length of that long straight. If you're bogged down with aero, they'll open a gap every time. And if they defend well in the corners, you're downforce advantage won't be worth as much. Might be different for GT classes, though, because they don't generate as much DF.
^ Have you read everything in Jacks OP, especially this part...
I did, maybe i don't understand. He is saying it's down to taste after the input of physics. So he could of set a heavier steering in one car than in another & have it oposite to real life. So really it is guesswork. Some cars feel off, like the F1 longtail but i never drove the original so im guessing, I was hoping there was some sort of value that mirrored the scale of the actual cars. The Pagani Huayra has more road feel than the LMPs and most other cars, how accurate is that?
Jack custom in-car settings are designed to normalize the cars' individual models. The way they were designed the force to wheel weight ratios aren't consistent from car to car. It has nothing to do with RL mechanical differences. If you use the defaults for all the cars, then the same force that generates 1 kg of weight in one car, might generated .02 kg in another, and 0.7 in the next. Using the same in-car settings for all is very convenient and can be done, but it doesn't mitigate those modeling differences. Also, the default settings aren't really that good. They aren't terrible, but feel wise, they're pretty bland.
If you search this thread, Jack actually posted an much more detailed explanation for the individual in-car settings.
Again, there's no right or wrong with it. You just need to dial it in to your personal tastes, which sounds like what you're doing.
Looks like i missed the above comment about normalisation of sms models forces.
One other thing you can do too is play with the sk. I wouldn't move it more than one number higher or lower but it will slightly change what you feel. It effects how you feel grip mostly but it will also change the balance of forces slightly. If you are going to play with this id set it to my defaults and change sk first then go back and adjust the sr. I ended up going with the middle number as I said before a compromise between better grip and better road feel. I know you mentioned the increase in wheel weight. Remember it will be different depending on the car. Some just aren't as strong which is how they are. The other thing like Haiden said I think in a lot of cases the games exaggerated that effect. The next time you take a offramp or turn on the thruway pay attention the extra pull is there but its subtle. Obviously at higher speeds it will increase some but I think many expect it to be a lot more than it should be. Just my 2 cents. lol
Thankyou for everyones help here, little gems like above are really helpful. I finally nailed the wheel settings although unfortunately after many hours of testing & tuning i lost the setting i was really happy with as it went back to default, so had to start again. Luckily they are mainly based off your template & i guess i learned allot from all the testing & got back to where i was, I now have a good setup up & it has made a huge difference to the game. In the end i toned back some of the road feel i had no idea you could get such sensitivity of the road in this game I could feel every tiny texture but then realised it was completely unrealistic. I'm used to driving cars with allot of road feel irl but not to those extremes. I think one or two cars feel a bit off as described above but maybe that is expectations of how a car would feel rather than physics.
Thankyou for everyones help here, little gems like above are really helpful. I finally nailed the wheel settings although unfortunately after many hours of testing & tuning i lost the setting i was really happy with as it went back to default, so had to start again. Luckily they are mainly based off your template & i guess i learned allot from all the testing & got back to where i was, I now have a good setup up & it has made a huge difference to the game. In the end i toned back some of the road feel i had no idea you could get such sensitivity of the road in this game I could feel every tiny texture but then realised it was completely unrealistic. I'm used to driving cars with allot of road feel irl but not to those extremes. I think one or two cars feel a bit off as described above but maybe that is expectations of how a car would feel rather than physics.
If you want to get your Scoops dialed in, or simply check to make sure your current Knee and Reduction settings are optimal for your wheel, you should download and run the FCM tool. It's really easy, and gives you a visual representation of where your wheel's default force curve is in relation to a true linear response. It will then recommend Scoop and Deadzone Removal Range settings to bring your wheel's curve as close to a linear response as possible. Some people prefer a non-linear response--definitely another area where preference comes into play. But, IMO, it helps to be able to see your curve (either way non-linear or linear) and understand how your wheel moves through the output range.
The tool is really easy to use. If you can point and click a mouse, then you can run the tool. The download page, makes it look more complicated than it is, because it's explaining how Scoops work. Don't let the density of the post scare you away. You'll be glad you gave it a shot. Took me months to try it, because of that. When I finally did, I kicked myself for not trying it sooner. Would have saved me a lot of time. LOL
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?35147-Baseline-Wheel-FFB-Values-Google-Sheet-amp-FCM-Universal
Thankyou for everyones help here, little gems like above are really helpful. I finally nailed the wheel settings although unfortunately after many hours of testing & tuning i lost the setting i was really happy with as it went back to default, so had to start again. Luckily they are mainly based off your template & i guess i learned allot from all the testing & got back to where i was, I now have a good setup up & it has made a huge difference to the game. In the end i toned back some of the road feel i had no idea you could get such sensitivity of the road in this game I could feel every tiny texture but then realised it was completely unrealistic. I'm used to driving cars with allot of road feel irl but not to those extremes. I think one or two cars feel a bit off as described above but maybe that is expectations of how a car would feel rather than physics.
You have to remember most of the cars in here are race cars so they have stiff suspensions which equals a lot of road feel. Drive the mustang gt and it feels pretty correct compared to real life. You still feel the road but nowheres near what a gt3 car or formula car feels like. As for the pagani its very possible. Not sure which one you mean but remember some of the cars might not be sprung as heavy as you think because they rely on downforce. Sort of like a nascar car they start higher but the downforce lowers the car at speed as it overcomes the springs. You also need to remember race cars are much stiffer than a regular car which again equals a lot more road feel. Just a simple roll cage will really tighten up a car and add road feel because you lose flex in the chassis.
You have to remember most of the cars in here are race cars so they have stiff suspensions which equals a lot of road feel. Drive the mustang gt and it feels pretty correct compared to real life. You still feel the road but nowheres near what a gt3 car or formula car feels like. As for the pagani its very possible. Not sure which one you mean but remember some of the cars might not be sprung as heavy as you think because they rely on downforce. Sort of like a nascar car they start higher but the downforce lowers the car at speed as it overcomes the springs. You also need to remember race cars are much stiffer than a regular car which again equals a lot more road feel. Just a simple roll cage will really tighten up a car and add road feel because you lose flex in the chassis.
I understand this completely that's why i think its strange a road car like the Pagani has significantly more road feel than the race cars. Most of the cars feel fine & i actually really enjoy driving the huayra I just wonder how accurate that much road feel is or in fact how heavy the wheel is. I understand for many people its about how they can produce the fastest lap times but for me it's the immersive & simulation of driving the cars. I also understand that things have to be amplified & added as Im not driving the real car. I guess it is just comparing the cars side by side as reference.
I did a bit of research "The hydraulically assisted steering is suitably meaty, and certainly far heavier in feel than a contemporary Ferrari, but while it seems almost too heavy at first, it doesn’t take long to acclimatise.
The carbon-ceramic brakes, like the steering, can be tweaked for each customer’s personal preferences, and I’d definitely have a tinker about with them: it wasn’t so much that there was any kind of dead spot as you can sometimes feel on Lamborghinis, or that there was anything wrong with their robust performance, it was more that the pedal feel lacked crisp definition right through the length of its travel. Testi suggested the more aggressive brake pads could be a solution, as our car had a comfort-oriented set-up, a ‘Mr Pagani set-up’ as he put it."
Also in other reviews it says the steering is quite heavy, its not heavy in the game at all, its not light but lighter than the f1 car. I always imagined F1 steering to be light then heavier at higher speed as its a super light car but massive amounts of grip at speed and of course G force. This is not really simulated in the game. I find it hard to understand when SMS made this game & spent so much time modelling the behaviour of the cars that they didn't really try to express this through the FFB.
GrimeyDog
23-07-2016, 15:39
I did, maybe i don't understand. He is saying it's down to taste after the input of physics. So he could of set a heavier steering in one car than in another & have it oposite to real life. So really it is guesswork. Some cars feel off, like the F1 longtail but i never drove the original so im guessing, I was hoping there was some sort of value that mirrored the scale of the actual cars. The Pagani Huayra has more road feel than the LMPs and most other cars, how accurate is that?
Have you tried My settings???...once you enter the Global Settings you can easily Tweek the wheel weight to any car with + or - with the in car masters..... I drive all cars Stock No Arm Angle, Suspension Adjustments and they all feel Great.
As long as you have your wheel FFB strength set correctly in the PC Controlor profile everything should work exactly same on PC as it does on console.
If you want to get your Scoops dialed in, or simply check to make sure your current Knee and Reduction settings are optimal for your wheel, you should download and run the FCM tool. It's really easy, and gives you a visual representation of where your wheel's default force curve is in relation to a true linear response. It will then recommend Scoop and Deadzone Removal Range settings to bring your wheel's curve as close to a linear response as possible. Some people prefer a non-linear response--definitely another area where preference comes into play. But, IMO, it helps to be able to see your curve (either way non-linear or linear) and understand how your wheel moves through the output range.
The tool is really easy to use. If you can point and click a mouse, then you can run the tool. The download page, makes it look more complicated than it is, because it's explaining how Scoops work. Don't let the density of the post scare you away. You'll be glad you gave it a shot. Took me months to try it, because of that. When I finally did, I kicked myself for not trying it sooner. Would have saved me a lot of time. LOL
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?35147-Baseline-Wheel-FFB-Values-Google-Sheet-amp-FCM-Universal
Thank you yes i did actualy try the excel tool with results i couldn't really interpret if im honest, maybe i made an error. I will try the other FCM tool which looks simpler. In the long run i will replace my Thrustmaster setup with Fanatic just i don't think the brexit has help with the cost of PC peripherals atm & just purchased an rift so there is a list of hardware upgrades including a hotas i need to get.
for the record my settings are as follows....if you see anything insane or just illogical let me know as guesswork involved.
PC thrustmaster profile 100
Wheel settings FFB 75
TF 73
PWM-0.04
PWD 0.04
WPS 04
DRR 0.11
DRF 0.02
LSC 0
LST 0
LD 0
RAG 1.49
RAB 0.04
RAC 0.75
SK 0.89
SR 0.42
SC H 0
SC F 0
MSS 0.40
LSSC 0.75
LSSS 1.00
SG 116
Have you tried My settings???...once you enter the Global Settings you can easily Tweek the wheel weight to any car with + or - with the in car masters..... I drive all cars Stock No Arm Angle, Suspension Adjustments and they all feel Great.
As long as you have your wheel FFB strength set correctly in the PC Controlor profile everything should work exactly same on PC as it does on console.
OK just to be clear, I would set my wheel to global settings & go by your in car settings?
GrimeyDog
23-07-2016, 16:25
OK just to be clear, I would set my wheel to global settings & go by your in car settings?
You would use My Global and In Car Settings... you would just have to make sure your GM FFB is set to 100 as you did before and Make surr you have your Wheel FFB set correctly for your wheel in the PC Controlor profile page
Shogun613
23-07-2016, 16:33
You have to remember most of the cars in here are race cars so they have stiff suspensions which equals a lot of road feel. Drive the mustang gt and it feels pretty correct compared to real life. You still feel the road but nowheres near what a gt3 car or formula car feels like. As for the pagani its very possible. Not sure which one you mean but remember some of the cars might not be sprung as heavy as you think because they rely on downforce. Sort of like a nascar car they start higher but the downforce lowers the car at speed as it overcomes the springs. You also need to remember race cars are much stiffer than a regular car which again equals a lot more road feel. Just a simple roll cage will really tighten up a car and add road feel because you lose flex in the chassis.
I always try to explain this to Assetto Corsa guys who think that game's physics are better because it feels like their road car. A coilover race suspension and a MacPherson strut system are two completely different things, but they just don't want to hear that...
Thank you yes i did actualy try the excel tool with results i couldn't really interpret if im honest, maybe i made an error. I will try the other FCM tool which looks simpler. In the long run i will replace my Thrustmaster setup with Fanatic just i don't think the brexit has help with the cost of PC peripherals atm & just purchased an rift so there is a list of hardware upgrades including a hotas i need to get.
for the record my settings are as follows....if you see anything insane or just illogical let me know as guesswork involved.
PC thrustmaster profile 100
Wheel settings FFB 75
TF 73
PWM-0.04
PWD 0.04
WPS 04
DRR 0.11
DRF 0.02
LSC 0
LST 0
LD 0
RAG 1.49
RAB 0.04
RAC 0.75
SK 0.89
SR 0.42
SC H 0
SC F 0
MSS 0.40
LSSC 0.75
LSSS 1.00
SG 116
I don't see anything odd/wrong with your settings. However, based on the comments you've made about feeling lower end forces, if you haven't already tried... test out higher RAC settings, 0.80 and 0.85. If there's no clipping, that will ease some of the higher end compression and open up the high range for more force differentiation. Steering Gain can also mask lower forces. It's a balancing act with that one, though. It can firm up the wheel and enhance road feel/texture. But, IMO, it seems to do so at the expense of subtle slip feeling. I used to run higher SG values. It took me a while to dial them down, and I had to do it slowly (5-10 increments every few racing days/sessions), because, although I could feel the difference in slip feel, I just couldn't get used to the diminished texture and road feel. Although, TBH, in retrospect, I'm not even sure if the road feel and texture I was feeling with higher SG values was realistic or just caused by over exaggerated artifacts in the FFB signal. I was feeling too much texture on tracks that were smooth in RL, and wasn't feeling enough differentiation between the RL tracks that do have texture. Nords, Watkins, and Sakitto have rough surfaces, but they should still have distinctly different feels, you know?
Thank you yes i did actualy try the excel tool with results i couldn't really interpret if im honest, maybe i made an error. I will try the other FCM tool which looks simpler. In the long run i will replace my Thrustmaster setup with Fanatic just i don't think the brexit has help with the cost of PC peripherals atm & just purchased an rift so there is a list of hardware upgrades including a hotas i need to get.
for the record my settings are as follows....if you see anything insane or just illogical let me know as guesswork involved.
PC thrustmaster profile 100
Wheel settings FFB 75
TF 73
PWM-0.04
PWD 0.04
WPS 04
DRR 0.11
DRF 0.02
LSC 0
LST 0
LD 0
RAG 1.49
RAB 0.04
RAC 0.75
SK 0.89
SR 0.42
SC H 0
SC F 0
MSS 0.40
LSSC 0.75
LSSS 1.00
SG 116
Agree with haidens thoughts on sg and rac. On our wheels you don't need pwm as there really isn't much or any internal drag. Wps hurts the small forces with our wheel which cause you to turn sg up to be able to feel them again. Now the strong forces are too strong.lol Tf and sg are similar but slightly different settings. Id leave tf at 75 and turn down sg. Basically just use sg to fill the hud after you get your other settings close. Id leave it at 1.0 until youre happy with the other settings. Some flat lining is ok but id try to limit it as much as possible. If sg gets set too high youll start to get a heavy wheel and actually lose the smaller forces. Yes I know it sounds like a big circle and sort of is. Not saying there is actually anything wrong with your settings a lot of this comes down to what you think it should feel like. One other thing you might want to try. Leave the game ffb master at 100 and turn the profiler screen wheel ffb down from the default 75.
I Did It !
Just pulled the pin and odered all my parts for my first gaming pc . Woo Whoo , can't wait to start building .
GTX 1060 Gainward
I5 6600k / Cooler Master TX3 CPU Cooler
Asrock z170 extreme4
16GB DDR4 2400mhz
Probably get a little better performance than my PS4 , lol but should want to for $1390 .
Bring on 1440p ultra everything and medium 4k .
Come over to the dark side , it looks bright .
No post's in the last three days made for a faster catch up.
Then again, NO post's in the last three days ??????
In the middle of formatting Hd & swapping to W10 fun times.....
GrimeyDog
27-07-2016, 20:12
Im on Vaction... I have too Much Liquor in Me to post anything sensible:p
Roger Prynne
27-07-2016, 21:07
^ So nothing has changed then :hopelessness:
GrimeyDog
27-07-2016, 21:47
You only Live once:p...YOLO:victorious: 2 weeks of Glory!!!:cool:
Rather be racing. :onthego:
Been having some great GT3 races this week. And been practicing the LMP1s in free practice. Everything's setup the way I want. Nothing else to do but race. Also got a new shifter and a couple rims. Lots to keep me busy. :)
Been trying to get at least an hour in a night if possible. Just been crazy lately with parties and helping people do stuff. Just found another neat feature the other night though. You can set time and date to real so whatever track you pick the time and date match the actual date and time. Night race at laguna seca was awesome. Sms actually did a good job with the headlights. I think that's the first time ive ever said that about any racing game. lol Usually I hate night races because the lights suck in most games or it feels totally artificial. Other then that just been racing tracks I don't normally use and trying some different cars. Could keep me busy for a long time .:D
I just went through a 30 minute quali at Dubai in the FA. I didn't realize it was 30 minutes when I joined. But it was a 10 lap race and 3/4 full server, so I decided to at least see what the pace was like. After 3 laps being ruined by a couple idots that just wouldn't get out of the way even though they had blown their hot laps, I got P4. Pole was within reach of my personal best, so I kept going. I've been racing GT3s all week and just needed to warm up. Another 3 laps I was in P3. A couple later, P2, and then I finally nabbed P1 with a time that was right at personal best. There was a lot of time left, so I decided took a break and came back a few minutes later to find the server had filled up, and I was back in P2, with about 6 minutes left. So I hit the track and ran a few more laps, but couldn't even beat my own time. With less than a minute remaining, I went back to the pits and saw the times. The gap between me and P1 was only 0.002 seconds. LOL And P3-5 were within a second of us. I was like HOLY Sh!#, this is gonna be a good race. The clock ran down, and the race screen loaded, then flashed, then showed me a screen that looked like a wall, and... BAM! We were all stuck in the pitboxes. One by one, everyone left the server. And the most awesome race that should have been, never was. F#&@!!!!!!!
That's the second time that's happened to me. The first time, the session was at Silverstone, and the top three or four positions were all within .500 seconds of each other. So disappointing. :(
gotdirt410sprintcar
28-07-2016, 03:35
Yeah that happens alot but who knows might have been mayhem before the second turn lol. But thats fun at times too go back by them laughing
Yeah that happens alot but who knows might have been mayhem before the second turn lol. But thats fun at times too go back by them laughing
Yeah... I don't mind the first turn chaos as much anymore. When it starts, I just do my best to get away from it, and then try to blast by the knot as soon as it starts getting sorted out. Then I spend the race working my way back up and just racing the people around me. The thing that still pisses me off, though, is when I make my way through all of the traffic I can catch, and then spend the remaining laps watching the gap between me and the leaders remain constant. They're now 20+ seconds ahead of me, but the fact that the gap never really increases and just rubber bands back and forth through the lap, tells me I'd be having a great race up front if they hadn't slipped away during the chaos.
But that's the strange thing about this week. I haven't gotten caught in first f'ckery all week. My starts have been really good, and I've managed to take the inside of the first corner most times. Others, times I just survive it somehow. I think I've just gotten better at dealing with the no-etiquette animals that plague MP. Still sucks, though. I seriously hope SMS implements some kind of match making system that takes collision history and race quitting into account, as well as best lap times.
gotdirt410sprintcar
29-07-2016, 07:05
Is anyone going to watch the totally 24 at spa this weekend ? 65 cars and there has been some big crashes in that race in the past. Hope the gt academy team does well since they where sim racers like us at one time
And a side note sending wheel out for repairs next week should be back at it again sure do miss pcars gt6 is like im confused i played this lol. But i have changed how i use the two little FFB sliders since playing pcars i now run FFB 10 , and the other one at like 4 or 5, at 10 10 i think i m getting some wheel clipping but who knows. Have a great weekend everyone
Shogun613
30-07-2016, 14:56
Is anyone going to watch the totally 24 at spa this weekend ? 65 cars and there has been some big crashes in that race in the past. Hope the gt academy team does well since they where sim racers like us at one time
NismoTV live stream for the Spa24: https://youtu.be/v1fFh23Ddf4 - good in North America.
gotdirt410sprintcar
30-07-2016, 15:14
NismoTV live stream for the Spa24: https://youtu.be/v1fFh23Ddf4 - good in North America.
Thanks man it's looking good already not even in the night yet
NismoTV live stream for the Spa24: https://youtu.be/v1fFh23Ddf4 - good in North America.
Nice to see the bus stop chicane giving the pros as much trouble as it does in sim. :) So easy to get a little too ambitious there.
NismoTV live stream for the Spa24: https://youtu.be/v1fFh23Ddf4 - good in North America.
Holy crap! Last 25 minutes and the rain takes out how many cars in that one turn? LOL They gambled---trying to get one more lap on slicks and FAILED! LOL
Holy crap! Last 25 minutes and the rain takes out how many cars in that one turn? LOL They gambled---trying to get one more lap on slicks and FAILED! LOL
I don't feel so bad about trying rain races now.lol Its funny this game got me watching so many other kinds of racing just so I can see what lines the pros take. Plus you see guys make mistakes like the ai in p cars. A few races ago I saw a guy make a hard left in front of someone. Wasn't his fault actually because the guy dive bombed him on the inside but just goes to show it really does happen even with pro drivers. Squeezed a race in on imola yesterday and found I really like that track. I'm going to have to try some more cars there. I just tried it with one of the evos yesterday for something different.
Continental series at lime rock is on. Be nice to see more tracks like this in p cars 2.
gotdirt410sprintcar
31-07-2016, 17:06
Holy crap! Last 25 minutes and the rain takes out how many cars in that one turn? LOL They gambled---trying to get one more lap on slicks and FAILED! LOL
And the Mercedes has pour team work as he let him pull out in front of the other car crazy there goes your podium. I watched most of this race missed first hour fell asleep with 5 hours to go woke up to see the last 25 minutes. Its crazy they push the cars so hard for 24 and they are fast as they where at the start or faster just shows how far racing has advanced parts etc.
EDIT They spend 40,000 on fire works and 1,000 on internet streaming lol it was good for the most part
I don't feel so bad about trying rain races now.lol Its funny this game got me watching so many other kinds of racing just so I can see what lines the pros take. Plus you see guys make mistakes like the ai in p cars. A few races ago I saw a guy make a hard left in front of someone. Wasn't his fault actually because the guy dive bombed him on the inside but just goes to show it really does happen even with pro drivers. Squeezed a race in on imola yesterday and found I really like that track. I'm going to have to try some more cars there. I just tried it with one of the evos yesterday for something different.
Same here. You can learn a lot by watching them. I used to primarily watch F1, now I watch a lot of the touring classes, too.
Imola is a fun track. :)
Same here. You can learn a lot by watching them. I used to primarily watch F1, now I watch a lot of the touring classes, too.
Imola is a fun track. :)
Yes its fast and technical with good flow to it. My kind of track. I watched all the races today because nascar got rained out. Some good open wheel stuff today and the limerock race was good too. That's one of the best parts of this game. It makes you want to improve your driving and watching others helps regardless of the type of car. It really helps when you can see their speeds in the different corners. I was amazed at how close the nascar speeds where at Sonoma compared to what I run in p cars.
Yes its fast and technical with good flow to it. My kind of track. I watched all the races today because nascar got rained out. Some good open wheel stuff today and the limerock race was good too. That's one of the best parts of this game. It makes you want to improve your driving and watching others helps regardless of the type of car. It really helps when you can see their speeds in the different corners. I was amazed at how close the nascar speeds where at Sonoma compared to what I run in p cars.
Yeah, the GP was great. This season is much more exciting than last season. I can't believe Ferrari this year. They're getting schooled by Red Bull. And Vettel (Ferrari) is scaring me. All he does is complain about not getting blue flags, while everyone else just deals with traffic fine. I think he's getting old...LOL
I wish the GT races would show more/better in car footage. The cockpit clips are too quick and you can never really hear their gear changes or see their brake and throttle use. They need to work on the broadcast format. Although, from a spectator only perspective, I guess it's probably fine.
Yeah, the GP was great. This season is much more exciting than last season. I can't believe Ferrari this year. They're getting schooled by Red Bull. And Vettel (Ferrari) is scaring me. All he does is complain about not getting blue flags, while everyone else just deals with traffic fine. I think he's getting old...LOL
I wish the GT races would show more/better in car footage. The cockpit clips are too quick and you can never really hear their gear changes or see their brake and throttle use. They need to work on the broadcast format. Although, from a spectator only perspective, I guess it's probably fine.
I agree there with the in car.They need more like nascar does with the in car footage showing speed,gas,brake,etc. I grew up watching anything with wheels that raced. I actually remember when they started televising them and if I remember right Jackie Stewart was the commentator for a lot of them. Man Im old.lol I stopped watching open wheel races because they got so boring just follow the leader for the most part not that nascar didn't go that way for a while. I have to say the races yesterday where pretty good especially at the end.
I agree there with the in car.They need more like nascar does with the in car footage showing speed,gas,brake,etc. I grew up watching anything with wheels that raced. I actually remember when they started televising them and if I remember right Jackie Stewart was the commentator for a lot of them. Man Im old.lol I stopped watching open wheel races because they got so boring just follow the leader for the most part not that nascar didn't go that way for a while. I have to say the races yesterday where pretty good especially at the end.
Exactly. F1 does the same. And they often stay with a driver long enough for you to really get a feel for how he's taking the corners.
I miss the monthly DLC. :(
There were early reports that PCars 2 might be out this December. Does anyone know the current timing?
gotdirt410sprintcar
02-08-2016, 00:08
No way if so they will be making a big mistake but who knows. Could do like gt does put out a game before the game lol.
Ekay.jay
02-08-2016, 00:15
I miss the monthly DLC. :(
There were early reports that PCars 2 might be out this December. Does anyone know the current timing?
There's absolutely no way it will be out this year. Maybe end of next year.
No way if so they will be making a big mistake but who knows. Could do like gt does put out a game before the game lol.
There's absolutely no way it will be out this year. Maybe end of next year.
That's what I thought. I remembered hearing Late 2016/early 2017 when they first announced it, but that quickly seemed a bit ambitious. I stumbled across this article, which is dated "6 months ago" and that prompted the question, because they're still saying December. :confused: I don't see how that possible.
https://www.carthrottle.com/post/why-you-need-to-start-getting-super-excited-for-project-cars-2/
Ekay.jay
02-08-2016, 01:52
I wouldn't be surprised if we got some kind of teaser in the coming months, but that's probably it
I miss the monthly DLC. :(
There were early reports that PCars 2 might be out this December. Does anyone know the current timing?
I saw the same thing somewhere. I hope so! It wont stop me from playing pcars but id love to see the progress with the next game. I look at p cars as an experiment that went great. Sms took a big gamble and it payed off. Yes it has some growing pains but they did so many things really well and hopefully learned a lot from it. If they don't stray to far from what they started it should have many loyal fans for a long time.
I miss the monthly DLC. :(
There were early reports that PCars 2 might be out this December. Does anyone know the current timing?
Me too. It would be nice to see one more. I don't even care what it is.lol
inthebagbud
02-08-2016, 12:24
oh no please not a when is it going to be released thread it will just be like the patch threads
you will get no comment from SMS or anybody involved in SMS2 so I would suggest putting that genie back in the bottle with a do not open until late 2017 label on it :sorrow:
oh no please not a when is it going to be released thread it will just be like the patch threads
you will get no comment from SMS or anybody involved in SMS2 so I would suggest putting that genie back in the bottle with a do not open until late 2017 label on it :sorrow:
I think its more like wishful thinking.
GrimeyDog
02-08-2016, 15:41
I havent played Much since i been on Vacation...but every time i get to run a few laps Pcars feels better and Better!!!!
Its been such a long time tweeking the FFB Its Taking a Lo ng time to get My Mind out if Tweeker Mode... I been driving Random Cars think i yested every car in the Game and they all Feel Really Good or how my mind thinks they should feel.... The Latest Fanatec Wheel FW has Really improved the FFB feel alot!!! Even the Ford MK v feels Great i been Driving it on Laguna Seca its a Real Blast!!!!
Wheel FW has a Lot to do with FFB feel... I have always suspected this.... The Latest Fanatec Wheel FW Confirms this 100%.
Jezza819
02-08-2016, 17:05
This is probably going to sound like a dumb question but then again that's never stopped me before. :)
Is there such a thing as a blank template page for all of the FFB settings in the game? I'm not talking about the individual car settings but things like steering gain, tire force, etc. and you can just plug in the values out to the side or whatever. I'm not very computer literate or I would create it myself.
GrimeyDog
02-08-2016, 17:14
This is probably going to sound like a dumb question but then again that's never stopped me before. :)
Is there such a thing as a blank template page for all of the FFB settings in the game? I'm not talking about the individual car settings but things like steering gain, tire force, etc. and you can just plug in the values out to the side or whatever. I'm not very computer literate or I would create it myself.
I don't know about PC but for console such a setting/template does Not Exist... the closest thing to that would be resetting your global settings to default values.
oh no please not a when is it going to be released thread it will just be like the patch threads
you will get no comment from SMS or anybody involved in SMS2 so I would suggest putting that genie back in the bottle with a do not open until late 2017 label on it :sorrow:
I think its more like wishful thinking.
Yeah... I was only asking if anyone had heard anything, because of the article mentioned December 2016.
This is probably going to sound like a dumb question but then again that's never stopped me before. :)
Is there such a thing as a blank template page for all of the FFB settings in the game? I'm not talking about the individual car settings but things like steering gain, tire force, etc. and you can just plug in the values out to the side or whatever. I'm not very computer literate or I would create it myself.
The only template I've ever seen was for in-car settings only, and it was made in Excel. It had a default page where you entered the default values, and then a working page where you made your changes. The working page had formulas that checked your values against the default page. Increased values on the working page would then show in green and decreases in red. Wouldn't be hard to make a similar spreadsheet for the gobals, though. Basically the same principle, just different fields.
Jezza819
03-08-2016, 17:16
I don't know about PC but for console such a setting/template does Not Exist... the closest thing to that would be resetting your global settings to default values.
It would make it easier if you wanted to try someone else's settings for a bit. One chart for your currents, another for whatever you want to try. Currently I have mine scribbled on a scrap of paper with my crude abbreviations.
The only template I've ever seen was for in-car settings only, and it was made in Excel. It had a default page where you entered the default values, and then a working page where you made your changes. The working page had formulas that checked your values against the default page. Increased values on the working page would then show in green and decreases in red. Wouldn't be hard to make a similar spreadsheet for the gobals, though. Basically the same principle, just different fields.
Yeah I knew it existed for the in-car settings. I might try to run it by someone here at work that's pretty good on computer stuff to see if he can maybe create it.
It would make it easier if you wanted to try someone else's settings for a bit. One chart for your currents, another for whatever you want to try. Currently I have mine scribbled on a scrap of paper with my crude abbreviations.
Yeah I knew it existed for the in-car settings. I might try to run it by someone here at work that's pretty good on computer stuff to see if he can maybe create it.
To be honest, if you're looking to use it for comparative global settings, I'm not sure it's worth the work. The in-car setting are for tuning, which requires making a lot of changes and needed to keep track of which direction you're moving the scales. If you're still working on your globals, I guess it would help, but if you're globals are set, then just type them out neatly (small print), print the page, and keep it handy. If you want to try some one else's settings, just print those out. If you don't like them, you're not going to use them again. So why go through entering them in Excel? If you do like them, then just keep page you printed, or update your own global print out. :)
RobboCod
03-08-2016, 21:20
Guys, can I ask a question about tyre temps. I am struggling to keep the left side around 200 at Silverstone GP in Audi LMS ultra, should I be increasing them by quite a bit? They get to around the mid 230's and stay there in an 8 lap race. I feel like I'm losing pace. Racing against AI at 90.
Guys, can I ask a question about tyre temps. I am struggling to keep the left side around 200 at Silverstone GP in Audi LMS ultra, should I be increasing them by quite a bit? They get to around the mid 230's and stay there in an 8 lap race. I feel like I'm losing pace. Racing against AI at 90.
You can try raising them some but you can go too far too and lose grip which in turn will make them over heat. If you aren't sliding it thru a lot of fast corners you may be forced to do some chassis adjustments to help balance the load on the tires. If the lefts are doing most of the work all the time air pressure will only help so much. My guess is you need to stiffen it up a little either with springs or sway bars. Id probably try the sway bars first.
RobboCod
03-08-2016, 21:41
You can try raising them some but you can go too far too and lose grip which in turn will make them over heat. If you aren't sliding it thru a lot of fast corners you may be forced to do some chassis adjustments to help balance the load on the tires. If the lefts are doing most of the work all the time air pressure will only help so much. My guess is you need to stiffen it up a little either with springs or sway bars.
I think I was naively hoping to fix all issues with a couple of pressure adjustments lol. I'll have a play around with what you mentioned. I get to about mid pack starting last and after so long can only watch as the car ahead begins increasing it's distance. Driver mistakes aside too. Thanks for suggestions :D
I think I was naively hoping to fix all issues with a couple of pressure adjustments lol. I'll have a play around with what you mentioned. I get to about mid pack starting last and after so long can only watch as the car ahead begins increasing it's distance. Driver mistakes aside too. Thanks for suggestions :D
One thing to consider also. You might want to check the ai laptimes against the leaderboards. In some cases the ai are running top 10 lap times in a race and you simply cant brake as late as they get away with. While it is possible to do you may just have to turn it down a little unless you want to spend a bunch of time setting up the car.
Guys, can I ask a question about tyre temps. I am struggling to keep the left side around 200 at Silverstone GP in Audi LMS ultra, should I be increasing them by quite a bit? They get to around the mid 230's and stay there in an 8 lap race. I feel like I'm losing pace. Racing against AI at 90.
Silverstone punishes the left side when you're pushing. Keeping them cool is always a challenge, but about a month ago I made some changes that really helped. In the past, I had been raising the tire pressure, but got to the point that Morpwr was talking about--where you start losing grip. (I really wish SMS would show the contact patch in the telemetry. It'd make pressure setting so much easier.) Anyway, I couldn't go any higher, so for the longest, I was just managing the tires. I didn't think there was anything else I could do. It worked fine, but the left front was always at the limit. Surprisingly, about a month ago, I made two simple changes that drastically reduced the running tire temps. Now, unless I'm pushing really hard, they stay within range (the front left is still always close to the limit, though, and requires some extra management). The changes I made were increasing the steering ratio and going lower with the tires pressures (from the defaults).
In retrospect, I see now that my steering ratio was too tight, and causing tire scrub. With the tire pressures, it seems that some cars (possibly the ones that start with warm tires--just a theory; I haven't tested them all) are already at the optimal pressure with the default settings. This means, you have to lower the pressure a bit. Otherwise, when they warm to race pace, you'll be over pressure, loosing grip and creating more heat.
Give those to things a shot. Might help. Like I said, it made a huge difference for me.
Silverstone punishes the left side when you're pushing. Keeping them cool is always a challenge, but about a month ago I made some changes that really helped. In the past, I had been raising the tire pressure, but got to the point that Morpwr was talking about--where you start losing grip. (I really wish SMS would show the contact patch in the telemetry. It'd make pressure setting so much easier.) Anyway, I couldn't go any higher, so for the longest, I was just managing the tires. I didn't think there was anything else I could do. It worked fine, but the left front was always at the limit. Surprisingly, about a month ago, I made two simple changes that drastically reduced the running tire temps. Now, unless I'm pushing really hard, they stay within range (the front left is still always close to the limit, though, and requires some extra management). The changes I made were increasing the steering ratio and going lower with the tires pressures (from the defaults).
In retrospect, I see now that my steering ratio was too tight, and causing tire scrub. With the tire pressures, it seems that some cars (not sure, but possibly the ones that start with warm tires) are already at the optimal pressure with the default settings. This means, you have to lower the pressure a bit. Otherwise, when they warm to race pace, you'll be over pressure, loosing grip and creating more heat.
Give those to things a shot. Might help. Like I said, it made a huge difference for me.
Forgot about that. I usually have to drop the pressures too on most cars to keep the temps in check if youre going off warm tires. They do show contact patch with the 3 temps across the tire but I don't think it works right. Iv never seen it do what id expect even using silly pressures. Even making big camber changes doesn't seem to make much difference which it should. I cant say it doesn't work at all I just don't think it picks up as much as it should to be really useful.
RobboCod
03-08-2016, 22:15
One thing to consider also. You might want to check the ai laptimes against the leaderboards. In some cases the ai are running top 10 lap times in a race and you simply cant brake as late as they get away with. While it is possible to do you may just have to turn it down a little unless you want to spend a bunch of time setting up the car.
I'll consider that too. I have been using the difficulty slider as a gauge for my driving improvements in a way. Gradually moving it up each series. I understand though that each class is quite different and doesn't translate equally difficulty wise.
RobboCod
03-08-2016, 22:22
Silverstone punishes the left side when you're pushing. Keeping them cool is always a challenge, but about a month ago I made some changes that really helped. In the past, I had been raising the tire pressure, but got to the point that Morpwr was talking about--where you start losing grip. (I really wish SMS would show the contact patch in the telemetry. It'd make pressure setting so much easier.) Anyway, I couldn't go any higher, so for the longest, I was just managing the tires. I didn't think there was anything else I could do. It worked fine, but the left front was always at the limit. Surprisingly, about a month ago, I made two simple changes that drastically reduced the running tire temps. Now, unless I'm pushing really hard, they stay within range (the front left is still always close to the limit, though, and requires some extra management). The changes I made were increasing the steering ratio and going lower with the tires pressures (from the defaults).
In retrospect, I see now that my steering ratio was too tight, and causing tire scrub. With the tire pressures, it seems that some cars (possibly the ones that start with warm tires--just a theory; I haven't tested them all) are already at the optimal pressure with the default settings. This means, you have to lower the pressure a bit. Otherwise, when they warm to race pace, you'll be over pressure, loosing grip and creating more heat.
Give those to things a shot. Might help. Like I said, it made a huge difference for me.
I'll look at those too many thanks! Next step of sim racing, learning car tuning! The track is quite difficult for me at moment too still learning it to be honest.
I'll consider that too. I have been using the difficulty slider as a gauge for my driving improvements in a way. Gradually moving it up each series. I understand though that each class is quite different and doesn't translate equally difficulty wise.
Not even so much each class but car and track combinations aren't always scaled the same. Some track car combinations I can easily lap cars at 100 by the end of a 20 lap race with a default setup except for air pressure. I found one the other night I was having a hard time at 80 staying in 5th place so I wouldn't use that as a gauge of your progress necessarily. Plus there is always room for improvement so as long as its getting easier and youre getting quicker that's all id really worry about.
I'll look at those too many thanks! Next step of sim racing, learning car tuning! The track is quite difficult for me at moment too still learning it to be honest.
Is that the track with the row of cones on the left that the ai always runs over?
I'll look at those too many thanks! Next step of sim racing, learning car tuning! The track is quite difficult for me at moment too still learning it to be honest.
It's a great track. The Maggots/Becketts complex is an easy place to lose time. If you go into the first turn wrong, you'll pay for it through the whole complex...LOL. It's easy to lose a full second in there.
Try raising the deceleration slip differential (try five increments to start). It will really help your corner entry in the higher speed corners.
Forgot about that. I usually have to drop the pressures too on most cars to keep the temps in check if youre going off warm tires. They do show contact patch with the 3 temps across the tire but I don't think it works right. Iv never seen it do what id expect even using silly pressures. Even making big camber changes doesn't seem to make much difference which it should. I cant say it doesn't work at all I just don't think it picks up as much as it should to be really useful.
Yeah... I know they show the three areas of the tire, but I'd like to actually see something more visually oriented, similar to the traction circles you see around the tires, but representing how much contact your tires are making. I feel like I've seen that in another sim. Can't remember which one, though.
The camber is joke in PCars. It doesn't work the way it should, and seems to have minimal effect in some cars, and then a somewhat unconventional effect in others. This weekend, I joined an FA race at Dubai and got pole in quali. There was time left, so I decided to test something I'd read in the forums (that running 0 camber gives you the best grip). Set all tire camber to 0, and did a few laps. My lap time were the same, but the car didn't feel good in the corners. I was going to change it back, but somehow got distracted and forgot. I ran the whole 15 lap race with camber set to 0. I managed hold my position and kept the lead the whole race, but I really didn't like the feel of the car, and was so worried I was going to lose it in a corner. But the fact that my lap times were the same after making a +2 degree change in camber just shows it's broken.
Edit: Also, the trick to the Magotts/Becketts complex is braking and taking it slower than you think. At the first and last corner entries there's a small stretch a track where you can straighten the car for a second or two. Use those sections for straight line braking before you turn in. If you're carrying good speed, tapping the brakes at any other point in that complex, can easily cause the back end to slip, because they'll already be at peak grip.
Which reminds me. Lower brake pressure can also help on tracks like Silverstone. I think I have mine at like 80%. Of course, the value varies, based on your hardware and global sensitivity settings (I think my global brake sensitivity is at 90, and my Fanatec @wheel setting is 80 or 90). The thing is, however much you lower it, just make sure you can still reach 100% full lock with ease. But the lower pressure will allow you to use more of the middle braking range (in terms of pedal throw). And at tracks like Silvertstone, this can improve your trail braking and corner entry. If your brake pressure goes from 0 to 100 to quickly, then you do have any fine control. How low you set it depends on your driving style, preference, and muscle control.
RobboCod
04-08-2016, 09:00
Is that the track with the row of cones on the left that the ai always runs over?
I know the ones but I think they appear in a different layout of Silverstone to the GP variant. I've gone over those myself a few times *ahem* whistles nonchalantly. I'll look at my lap times and consistency then for a good gauge. I occasionally have a late race spin out probably due to concentration loss and impatience so always things to be ironed out.
RobboCod
04-08-2016, 09:04
It's a great track. The Maggots/Becketts complex is an easy place to lose time. If you go into the first turn wrong, you'll pay for it through the whole complex...LOL. It's easy to lose a full second in there.
Try raising the deceleration slip differential (try five increments to start). It will really help your corner entry in the higher speed corners.
I should know the corners to be honest but if Maggots and Becketts is the fast S's then I definitely lose time there. I'm glad I'm off this week so I can get some of this stuff implemented.
I know the ones but I think they appear in a different layout of Silverstone to the GP variant. I've gone over those myself a few times *ahem* whistles nonchalantly. I'll look at my lap times and consistency then for a good gauge. I occasionally have a late race spin out probably due to concentration loss and impatience so always things to be ironed out.
On that track wait till the ai hits the cones for you and if you set the corner before the cones up right you can take the next corner a lot faster and pass the ai down the straight because you can carry 10-15 mph more thru the corner with the cones missing. Remember sometimes its better and faster to stay up a gear thru certain corners especially if youre spinning out coming off them. In some corners it will allow you to carry more speed and the car wont want to rotate as much with the gas coming off the corner.
Yeah... I know they show the three areas of the tire, but I'd like to actually see something more visually oriented, similar to the traction circles you see around the tires, but representing how much contact your tires are making. I feel like I've seen that in another sim. Can't remember which one, though.
The camber is joke in PCars. It doesn't work the way it should, and seems to have minimal effect in some cars, and then a somewhat unconventional effect in others. This weekend, I joined an FA race at Dubai and got pole in quali. There was time left, so I decided to test something I'd read in the forums (that running 0 camber gives you the best grip). Set all tire camber to 0, and did a few laps. My lap time were the same, but the car didn't feel good in the corners. I was going to change it back, but somehow got distracted and forgot. I ran the whole 15 lap race with camber set to 0. I managed hold my position and kept the lead the whole race, but I really didn't like the feel of the car, and was so worried I was going to lose it in a corner. But the fact that my lap times were the same after making a +2 degree change in camber just shows it's broken.
The tire temps make sense to me because that's all we used when I helped with a modified. They told you everything. But I don't think pcars tire temps are sensitive enough to pick up correctly on changes to the car or pressures. Could be its tied into the camber not working properly too. Ive had pretty much the same results as you when ive played with it.
RobboCod
04-08-2016, 12:12
On that track wait till the ai hits the cones for you and if you set the corner before the cones up right you can take the next corner a lot faster and pass the ai down the straight because you can carry 10-15 mph more thru the corner with the cones missing. Remember sometimes its better and faster to stay up a gear thru certain corners especially if youre spinning out coming off them. In some corners it will allow you to carry more speed and the car wont want to rotate as much with the gas coming off the corner.
Yes, there have been some moments where a quick shift has helped me avoid disaster. In the Audi gt3 I'll drop to first for a tight left hairpin at Silverstone and I have to be very careful with throttle otherwise it's back of the order kicking myself. I really need to get the t3pa pedals as I've heard they are so much better for the progression than the stock ones.
Yes, there have been some moments where a quick shift has helped me avoid disaster. In the Audi gt3 I'll drop to first for a tight left hairpin at Silverstone and I have to be very careful with throttle otherwise it's back of the order kicking myself. I really need to get the t3pa pedals as I've heard they are so much better for the progression than the stock ones.
I don't mean short shifting to avoid wheel spin. Actually staying in a higher gear thru the corner. The car wont get as upset going in and coming off it wont try to spin the tires and over rotate. It seems weird at first but in some cases it is worth a bunch of time. They are a huge improvement over the stock pedals. If you want to go all out get those and the ricmotech loadcell. Even with out the loadcell they are still a huge improvement with the conical brake mod that's included.
RobboCod
04-08-2016, 13:11
I don't mean short shifting to avoid wheel spin. Actually staying in a higher gear thru the corner. The car wont get as upset going in and coming off it wont try to spin the tires and over rotate. It seems weird at first but in some cases it is worth a bunch of time. They are a huge improvement over the stock pedals. If you want to go all out get those and the ricmotech loadcell. Even with out the loadcell they are still a huge improvement with the conical brake mod that's included.
Ah! Got you now sorry. I suppose it is shaking off the feeling you have less drive coming out of a corner so to speak then? Knowing that actually, your car is stable and able to accelerate without disruption
Ah! Got you now sorry. I suppose it is shaking off the feeling you have less drive coming out of a corner so to speak then? Knowing that actually, your car is stable and able to accelerate without disruption
Not only that but in a lot of cases youll carry more speed thru the corner. It feels slower but its faster in some cases because you went the same faster speed thru it instead of slowing down more and accelerating harder off. Sometimes youll just need to set the corner up a little earlier to to do it.
RobboCod
04-08-2016, 13:54
Haiden, Morpwr, where would I be without you guys! A sway bar adjustment has just made a big enough difference for me to notice a pace increase. There are only 3 settings on the audi for sway bars they were middle by default so switched them to stiff. Came 8th starting 20th no AI difficulty change yet. Going to play with lower left aide pressures now. Awesome stuff!
The tire temps make sense to me because that's all we used when I helped with a modified. They told you everything. But I don't think pcars tire temps are sensitive enough to pick up correctly on changes to the car or pressures. Could be its tied into the camber not working properly too. Ive had pretty much the same results as you when ive played with it.
Same here. I don't think PCars' temps are working properly, because the spread between outer, inner, and middle is never enough to really tell me anything, and it doesn't appear to be affect by camber changes.
Haiden, Morpwr, where would I be without you guys! A sway bar adjustment has just made a big enough difference for me to notice a pace increase. There are only 3 settings on the audi for sway bars they were middle by default so switched them to stiff. Came 8th starting 20th no AI difficulty change yet. Going to play with lower left aide pressures now. Awesome stuff!
Sway bars are very track dependent. Stiffer settings can help you at Silverstone, because of the Maggotts/Becketts complex (Yes. Tha'ts the S-like curve/section before the back straight). The quick direction changes in that complex, cause the weight to shift rapidly. In longer races, when you're carrying more fuel, you've got even more weight shifting. The stiffer sway bars reduce body roll, and allow you take that section better. Because that section is so long, and also opens up to a long straight, the benefit of stabilizing the weight transfer through that complex far outweighs the traction benefits of softer sway bars. Also the fact that Silverstone is a relatively flat smooth track with only a couple tight turns, diminishes the need for softer sway bars, at least IMO.
Yeah... I was only asking if anyone had heard anything, because of the article mentioned December 2016.
Since getting my ffb set up correctly and doing a new install, I've been enjoying doing the career all over. I've been taking the whole thing seriously, for each track and car I've been spending at least one or two days tweaking setups and doing practice before the actual event.
This week I hit a roadblock with the BMW M1 Procar at Spa, the thing just felt dead to me and nothing I did made it feel any better. I finally took it to Brno to try and dial in the cornering and spent at least 10-12 frustrating hours over three days before giving up on it in despair and loading up the race session and then all of a sudden the ffb starts working again? Over three or four ps4 restarts and probably six to eight game starts ffb was the same dead feel and then all of a sudden it starts working again, how frustrating.
Shame on me for not clueing in but yea I was singularly focused, yes I had driven the Procar before but that was a couple of updates back and some of the cars have had a whole new feel after updates.
So yea while a new dlc would be nice it's way past time we got a functional game.
All grumpiness aside, since dialing the ffb I've put up several top ten times in time trials, lots of top 25's and 50's so that's all good. It's kind of funny to have gone from feeling that a more saturated wheel was better to looking at Morpwr's settings and thinking wow that's an awfully high TF setting how can he stand it, lol, my how things change!
This is probably going to sound like a dumb question but then again that's never stopped me before. :)
Is there such a thing as a blank template page for all of the FFB settings in the game? I'm not talking about the individual car settings but things like steering gain, tire force, etc. and you can just plug in the values out to the side or whatever. I'm not very computer literate or I would create it myself.
Is this like what you are looking for?
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1rcwijJf_aLQOU55eGq1SumDwDTydC7alDFJmSTnABO8/htmlview?pli=1#gid=1249374691
Since getting my ffb set up correctly and doing a new install, I've been enjoying doing the career all over. I've been taking the whole thing seriously, for each track and car I've been spending at least one or two days tweaking setups and doing practice before the actual event.
This week I hit a roadblock with the BMW M1 Procar at Spa, the thing just felt dead to me and nothing I did made it feel any better. I finally took it to Brno to try and dial in the cornering and spent at least 10-12 frustrating hours over three days before giving up on it in despair and loading up the race session and then all of a sudden the ffb starts working again? Over three or four ps4 restarts and probably six to eight game starts ffb was the same dead feel and then all of a sudden it starts working again, how frustrating.
Shame on me for not clueing in but yea I was singularly focused, yes I had driven the Procar before but that was a couple of updates back and some of the cars have had a whole new feel after updates.
So yea while a new dlc would be nice it's way past time we got a functional game.
All grumpiness aside, since dialing the ffb I've put up several top ten times in time trials, lots of top 25's and 50's so that's all good. It's kind of funny to have gone from feeling that a more saturated wheel was better to looking at Morpwr's settings and thinking wow that's an awfully high TF setting how can he stand it, lol, my how things change!
Yeah... the FFB hiccups do still occur. Unfortunately, I don't think they'll ever be fixed for PCars1. I think the problems are just too deep in the coding to resolve. We might see one more DLC package/update, but I'm pretty sure there won't be any major changes to the fundamental models and functionality.
And yes...that's how it goes. It takes you a while to wean off of saturation. But once you do, you realize saturation can be the bane of fidelity. :)
Yeah... the FFB hiccups do still occur. Unfortunately, I don't think they'll ever be fixed for PCars1. I think the problems are just too deep in the coding to resolve. We might see one more DLC package/update, but I'm pretty sure there won't be any major changes to the fundamental models and functionality.
And yes...that's how it goes. It takes you a while to wean off of saturation. But once you do, you realize saturation can be the bane of fidelity. :)
With Assetto Corsa only a few weeks off it would make sense to have something ready to keep people interested in playing but who knows. The lingering issues with pcars really pushes my buttons at times especially when I miss catching that I'm encountering one and spend hours in frustration trying to figure something out, but why should we as users assume the game is glitching at every problem?
As far as the ffb goes tho, there is just so much there under the noise now that I know what I'm looking for. I'm so much faster and smooth with my TF at 50-55 than I am at 65-75. I'm not the greatest but I know I can find a few more tenths at Spa with the Procar and be in the top five times according to the steam listings. Obviously the best racers are not posting times there or on the console tt listings but it's something to shoot for at least.
inthebagbud
05-08-2016, 06:22
Ok here's one for the xbox users with fanatec csw v2 . If you are running your own dialled in ffb globals , do me a favour if you have time and set them back to default and tell me if you actually notice any difference . Other than messing with the actual tf value and wheel ffb no other value in my opinion actually seems to make a difference in ffb feel. I am not talking at car level here just wheel level
And you thought there was nothing else to explore haha
With Assetto Corsa only a few weeks off it would make sense to have something ready to keep people interested in playing but who knows. The lingering issues with pcars really pushes my buttons at times especially when I miss catching that I'm encountering one and spend hours in frustration trying to figure something out, but why should we as users assume the game is glitching at every problem?
As far as the ffb goes tho, there is just so much there under the noise now that I know what I'm looking for. I'm so much faster and smooth with my TF at 50-55 than I am at 65-75. I'm not the greatest but I know I can find a few more tenths at Spa with the Procar and be in the top five times according to the steam listings. Obviously the best racers are not posting times there or on the console tt listings but it's something to shoot for at least.
Luckily I haven't had any of those issues in along time. Actually since the last reinstall and grimey pointing out waiting for the save icon. Like it tells you to do.lol I do think that has something to do with things not getting saved correctly when you make changes at this point. The guys that gave up early on missed a really great racing game with the best ffb ive ever had on a console.
Luckily I haven't had any of those issues in along time. Actually since the last reinstall and grimey pointing out waiting for the save icon. Like it tells you to do.lol I do think that has something to do with things not getting saved correctly when you make changes at this point. The guys that gave up early on missed a really great racing game with the best ffb ive ever had on a console.
I've had corrupted FFB before, but nothing that lasted hours. Usually, when that happens, I just return to the pits, and when I exit, it's back to normal. I think one time, I had to do that twice. But that's usually all it takes to clear it up. The annoying thing is when it happens at the start of an online race. It's fine all through quali, and then the race starts and your wheel feels like complete crap, grinding/gritty in the corners. Most of the time, I have no choice but to quit the race, because it feel so bad, I'm afraid it's going to damage my wheel.
Question, though... What exactly do you mean when you say, wait for the save icon? I don't think I can do anything if I wanted to when the save icon is going. I don't recall there being any available options when saving out of the globals or in-car settings. The options don't appear until the save is complete.
With Assetto Corsa only a few weeks off it would make sense to have something ready to keep people interested in playing but who knows. The lingering issues with pcars really pushes my buttons at times especially when I miss catching that I'm encountering one and spend hours in frustration trying to figure something out, but why should we as users assume the game is glitching at every problem?
You know... I've been checking out the latest Assetto Corsa gameplay on PS4 and it looks like the physics are challenging, but close to PCars. I've haven't played, but judging from the braking points, line, gearing, and speed I see them going through the corners, it seems very similar to PCars. But the thing is, despite the good physics and sounds, the graphics don't seem up to measure up to PCars. I think AC will be a great addition to my library, but given the smaller amount of tracks and cars, I'm not sure it will replace PCars for me, at least not single player, which I still enjoy a lot. MP is another story, though. Despite having less content, if the MP is stable and the matchmaking system does a good job of pairing you with like drivers, then I'll probably stop playing PCars online. Unless you're in a league, the PCars online experience is very frustrating. Way too many idiots and party crashers.
It's really sad, too. Because you just kind of give up on getting a good position, and often end up just racing the cars around you, which can be fun. But even then, the back field is usually full of bad drivers that you have to really be careful when trying to pass, or just wait for them to swing wide or run off track. Otherwise, they will just slam into you when you try to pass them. I constantly have cars swerving over, pushing me off track, on f'ing long straights, and it's obvious that they're intentionally trying to spin you out, because even after making contact, they just keeping pushing you.
I hopped in session yesterday, GT3s at Brno (15 car grid). I start P4, and I was ready for for first corner mayhem, only to be surprised that there was no cluster and everyone got through smoothly. The first lap, I went into a corner with another car, left him room, and waited for contact. It never came, we drove almost half a lap, wheel to wheel, corner after corner. We both in Z4s, and then caught up to P2, who was also in a Z4. The three of battled it out cleanly for the next three laps. It was an amazingly clean race, and only found two things disappointing about it. One, the fact that it was only 4 laps. I wish it had been longer...LOL And two, the fact that being in a clean public race was so atypical that it was almost distracting while I was racing.
Everyone was quiet during the race, but as soon as we crossed the finished line, people start congratulating and thanking each other for running a clean race. We were all saying how awesome it was, and how much more fun the game can be when you're racing with a good group that adheres to etiquette. The friend requests start flying. We had a gap on the others, but apparently P5-8 were racing cleanly, too. So the next session, we're all talking during quali about the pains on MP. And one of the guys noticed that almost half of the drivers from the last race had left, and the server filling with new guys. He said, "Watch, I bet this race will be totally different." Sure enough, I couldn't get a decent hot lap, because idiots were racing and blocking me on their out laps. I saw one guy coming out of the pits as I was coming around for a hot lap. I had my headlights on, but he didn't slow, so we ended up neck and neck going into the next corner. He refused to slow and give me the corner. Another guy drove way off track, then came back on wildly, and proceeded to block me from passing, even though his current lap had gone to shit. So I end up at P6. No big deal. But just like the other called it. The race was a disaster.
I really don't understand why these companies don't create a better match making system. They should run a few ranked servers, alongside the public ones, that take driving history into account. Will it be perfect? No. But it would easily eliminate the straight idiots that have no business being in an online race, and that alone would drastically improve the MP experience for other drivers. IMO, this is a huge missed opportunity. I hope SMS brings something like that to PCars2.
I've had corrupted FFB before, but nothing that lasted hours. Usually, when that happens, I just return to the pits, and when I exit, it's back to normal. I think one time, I had to do that twice. But that's usually all it takes to clear it up. The annoying thing is when it happens at the start of an online race. It's fine all through quali, and then the race starts and your wheel feels like complete crap, grinding/gritty in the corners. Most of the time, I have no choice but to quit the race, because it feel so bad, I'm afraid it's going to damage my wheel.
Question, though... What exactly do you mean when you say, wait for the save icon? I don't think I can do anything if I wanted to when the save icon is going. I don't recall there being any available options when saving out of the globals or in-car settings. The options don't appear until the save is complete.
Wait until it stops flashing before trying to back out of the screen. You can push the button before its actually done. I don't know if it actually works or not but since grimey pointed that out and ive been doing it ive had very few if any issues.
GrimeyDog
05-08-2016, 18:37
Wait until it stops flashing before trying to back out of the screen. You can push the button before its actually done. I don't know if it actually works or not but since grimey pointed that out and ive been doing it ive had very few if any issues.
Thats what i do and i have very few problems with the wheel FFB loading right...Also when i start Pcars i dont touch any buttons or Pedals until i push X and it finishes loading completely...after that i pull the Hand Brake Fully and just use the wheel and pedals Normaly.... I find if i dont pull the HB at least once after Pcars Loads up that it will always act up... could be right away could be much later... on alot if the cars the HB activates the Clutch instead of Causing Rear Wheel Lock up.
Doing it this way has Really Reduced the Random Wheel FFB problems for Me... also i Never Calibrate wheel and pedals in the Calibration Screen and all works well... My RL hand movements are 99.95 1 to 1 with the on screen wheel and Hand movement.
I also Agree that with Assetto Corsa only a few weeks out it would be wise for SMS to have some DLC ready to keep Pcars Fans Happy... That would be a Really Smart move for them.
With the way Pcars FFB Feels its going to be hard for Assetto Corsa to beat it!!! Ive seen some AC videos and the videos that show The Users Hands VS the In Cars Hand wheel Movement im Not impressed it seems to be Off quite a bit...also the person driving sucked so it makes Me wonder if its the Driver Sucking or could it be the Game??? AC for PC feels pretty Good but compaired to PS4 Pcars the Road Feel is Flat... They both have strengths and weakness its Really gonna be hard to call it until we feel AC for Console for our selves and + few updates to AC...So even after AC launch its still Gonna take 3months to Really Know if it can Go Head to Head with Pcars.... Seems thats just how it Goes now days... Buy the Game then wait fir the updates to fix Bugs...AC should be pretty Much Bug Free since its been out on PC for a while Now.
With all the Buzz about Fanatec wheels Not working because of No PS4 Native support i Really would like Kunos to publish a Final list of wheels that are going to work with Assetto Corsa
GrimeyDog
07-08-2016, 01:28
https://www.gtplanet.net/ps3-wheel-support-may-continue-in-gran-turismo-sport/
Hhhmmmm...very interesting...Maybe Just Maybe...What are your thoughts.
GrimeyDog
07-08-2016, 02:07
https://www.gtplanet.net/thrustmasters-new-gt-sport-wheel-to-include-direct-drive-motor/
For the Linearity Purist:yes:
TM is states the the New DD wheel was designed to be Linear.
Anyone here playing PCars multiplayer on PC and console (specifically PS4)? Are there as many idiots online on PC as there are on console? I know clean racing in public sessions is always hard to come by, regardless of the platform. But I'm pretty sure a lot of the blatantly stupid crap I'm encountering online with consoles is simply due to the transient arcade racing crowd, which is far larger on console than it is on PC. I mean...you can't even really these guys arseholes, because they are completely unaware that what they're doing is wrong. They don't watch RL racing, which is why they have no idea that weaving back and forth is illegal. They don't shunt into corners because they're dicks, they do it because they don't know anything about etiquette and that they need to have their nose alongside you to claim the inside line. Basically, the only different arcade players probably see between PCars and Need for Speed is the graphics and number of cars available.
I'm not saying that all PC players are more informed. But, by nature, PC racers are often less transient and therefore more likely to learn racing etiquette, by no other means than osmosis...LOL I don't know for, but I'm willing to guess there are more kids playing PCars on console than there are PC. That alone would make a huge difference.
Anyway, if anyone has been playing both regularly, or made the move to PC from console. I'd love to hear your opinion, because I'm really thinking about accelerating my PC plans. I'm having too many races ruined by arcade idiots.
gotdirt410sprintcar
07-08-2016, 23:13
I'm thinking the same thing I been playing r factor on my laptop any wheel works by the way. So yeah I'm thinking the same way not because of stupid online kids you get on ps4 its more that I limit my self with wheel capability my wheel broke if Sony didn't have this bull shit g29 I mean g27 I mean driving force gt wheel. I could just plug and go pc you can Why don't those work I guess I could make my own g29 with the wheels I got lol
I'm thinking the same thing I been playing r factor on my laptop any wheel works by the way. So yeah I'm thinking the same way not because of stupid online kids you get on ps4 its more that I limit my self with wheel capability my wheel broke if Sony didn't have this bull shit g29 I mean g27 I mean driving force gt wheel. I could just plug and go pc you can Why don't those work I guess I could make my own g29 with the wheels I got lol
Definitely. The larger community with mods and better compatibility options were what made me decide to switch. The annoying idiots (and a change in vacation plans), got me thinking about doing it sooner. Also, the Clubsport pedals have higher resolution when plugged in directly, instead of through the wheel. But I'm looking forward to getting more liveries, app options, and taking advantage of the custom grid editor. Most of all, if I upgrade to PC this year, then next year's upgrade will be triple screens or VR, because , I'm definitely getting a GTX 1080. :)
GrimeyDog
08-08-2016, 10:41
It was a Great 2 weeks of Vacation!!!
Only played a few hours of Pcars... Just made more sense to enjoy out and about time and get back to Pcars when Vacation was done:yes:
Had a few Good Races online last Night... Seems that the Crash Dummies are always out there...its a Shame too some of them are Fast but they watch your qualifying time then target you for take out within the first 2 corners... most of the time its Not a total take out just a Good bump in the Grass or penalty Zone to slow you down figuring you wont catch them by the end of the Race... I try Not to join Races that are less than 8 to 10 laps depending on track so if i get taken out it gives a better chance to catch up... Most of the time i can catch up to at least 3rd... The Slower Guys dont really get on My Nerves with a bump or take out its the Faster guys that Really get on My Nerves with it!!! Is Winning Really that important that they Ruin what could be a Good Challenging Race:confused: For Me winning by taking some one out is Not a win to be proud of:no: but i guess we all have our own Morals and Ethics.
The Crash Dummies are on PC also!!! You will Find them... Just start beating the Faster racers and they will show themselves!!! they are just more subtle about it...as i noted above they Never Really take you totally out they just Bump you in the Dirt or in a penalty zone to Slow you down while they try to get a lead on you...2 fast people Racing if you bump the lead car in the dirt you hold the spot and give it back... Thats what i do... Some times bumping Happens different Cars different braking points but you can always tell a intentional bump from a mistake because they happen in Very Strategic spots!!
GrimeyDog
08-08-2016, 10:55
We Need to Start our Own Racing League/Community from this Group... Whos in for that??? I think we will Have some Great Races!!!
Any 1 want to create a Group for Just wheel users???
I started a Group on PS4 its called Wheel VS Wheel ....I never took time to develope it... but its still there... we can start from there or create a New Group any 1 up for it???
It was a Great 2 weeks of Vacation!!!
Only played a few hours of Pcars... Just made more sense to enjoy out and about time and get back to Pcars when Vacation was done:yes:
Had a few Good Races online last Night... Seems that the Crash Dummies are always out there...its a Shame too some of them are Fast but they watch your qualifying time then target you for take out within the first 2 corners... most of the time its Not a total take out just a Good bump in the Grass or penalty Zone to slow you down figuring you wont catch them by the end of the Race... I try Not to join Races that are less than 8 to 10 laps depending on track so if i get taken out it gives a better chance to catch up... Most of the time i can catch up to at least 3rd... The Slower Guys dont really get on My Nerves with a bump or take out its the Faster guys that Really get on My Nerves with it!!! Is Winning Really that important that they Ruin what could be a Good Challenging Race:confused: For Me winning by taking some one out is Not a win to be proud of:no: but i guess we all have our own Morals and Ethics.
The Crash Dummies are on PC also!!! You will Find them... Just start beating the Faster racers and they will show themselves!!! they are just more subtle about it...as i noted above they Never Really take you totally out they just Bump you in the Dirt or in a penalty zone to Slow you down while they try to get a lead on you...2 fast people Racing if you bump the lead car in the dirt you hold the spot and give it back... Thats what i do... Some times bumping Happens different Cars different braking points but you can always tell a intentional bump from a mistake because they happen in Very Strategic spots!!
Wow... funny you say that, because I thought I was crazy. I've totally suspected this. It's just too strange and subtle how it happens. I know these guys know I'm along side them, because they pulled up to me on the straight, and then, like you said, it's a subtle push into the grass. Or when you come to a chicane, it's not your normal, "oh shit, I forgot to brake early because there's a car ahead of me." It's a controlled brake that taps your rear just enough to through you off the track and pick up an penalty. And the infuriating thing is that, once you get back on track, you watch the gap between you and that guy or the new leaders remain fairly constant, while you now race alone. So basically, you'd be having a great battle/race if they hadn't done that.
I know there are crashers on PC. I just don't think there as many. And if there are, it's more diluted, because there are more servers. There aren't really many MP session options on PS4. Even when the list is a page long, more than half the page are lobbies with one or two players waiting, and then there another quarter of the list running cars classes I don't ever drive. I just think I'll have more options on PC. Not just with PCars, but sim racing in general. My rig's come along faster than expected, and I'm ready for it. I was planning to go to the U.S. Grand Prix this year, but the good seats are about $1,300, decent seats $675. Coupled with airfare, hotel, rental car, food, and entertainment, it's a little much. My GF likes racing, but won't be able to go in Oct, because of work. A friend of mine was in town from Seattle this week. I decided we'd be better off going there to visit or traveling somewhere together. Anyway, she then said, "Well, if you're going to Seattle to stay with Brian, then you can get your gaming PC this year, right?" My eyes flared, because I hadn't even thought of that....LOL
I haven't built a PC in over 10 years, but the computer store near me will let you pick you parts, and then build it for $120. More than worth it! So it's time for me to do this. :)
Roger Prynne
08-08-2016, 12:35
You wont regret it Haiden.
GrimeyDog
08-08-2016, 15:12
To go PC or Not to Go PC... Hmmm that is the question:confused:...LOL... I will Make My Final Choice after the upgraded Consoles Release.... I can do IRacing and Assetto Corsa on the PC i have... I would like to upgrade but im just procrastinating and on the fence about doing so... I dont want to spend $1k plus just to Play Pcars with better Graphics:no: and i dont like IRacing its just a $$$ pit because you never own anything...When you dont renew your membership you cant use any of the content you paid for also if your internet is down you cant even play off Line... you can easily Rack up a few Hundred in DL Content but Never Own any of it!!! Huge $$$ pit IMO.
The ESL looks to be pretty promising for Clean Racing also i have had Good Privately organized Races with Vroom....Its just a Matter of where and who your racing with.
To go PC or Not to Go PC... Hmmm that is the question:confused:...LOL... I will Make My Final Choice after the upgraded Consoles Release.... I can do IRacing and Assetto Corsa on the PC i have... I would like to upgrade but im just procrastinating and on the fence about doing so... I dont want to spend $1k plus just to Play Pcars with better Graphics:no: and i dont like IRacing its just a $$$ pit because you never own anything...When you dont renew your membership you cant use any of the content you paid for also if your internet is down you cant even play off Line... you can easily Rack up a few Hundred in DL Content but Never Own any of it!!! Huge $$$ pit IMO.
The ESL looks to be pretty promising for Clean Racing also i have had Good Privately organized Races with Vroom....Its just a Matter of where and who your racing with.
True. But consoles lack mod options, as well. And running a Fanatec setup on a console doesn't allow you to take full advantage of the brake and pedal precision they offer. I also can't run triple screens on console (which I definitely want to do in the future), and I have limited VR options. IMO, PC isn't about performance or a specific game. It's about options and community support. There is so much more available for PCars on PC. Even the chat options are better and their are more leagues, many of which have been around for a while and already have their kinks worked out and run very smoothly with resources to support them. Almost every console league I've tried has been a bit of trial and error as they get their feet wet and figure things out, even the good ones.
I may try iRacing, eventually. The whole not being able to own anything doesn't bother me. When I was younger, I was a PC only gamer. Back then, there was no pay to play model, so you bought everything outright. I have a CD case full of games from the 90s and early 2000s, none of which I could play today, even if I wanted to. So what's the difference? After 5 or 6 years it doesn't matter whether you own a title or not, because you won't be playing. At least with iRacing, I wouldn't have to figure out what to do with all the CDs/files I'm no longer using...LOL And, that being said, with iRacing, whatever I buy will last as long as I'm willing to play it, even as iRacing releases new versions. With consoles and other titles, you buy the game and the DLC, and then when the next version comes out, you buy a new game and the old DLC is useless. If a new console comes out, you may also lose everything and have to buy again. Gaming in general is a money pit...LOL.
Also performance isn't a reason to move, but it definitely doesn't hurt the case. And you're in full control of the performance level with PC. With consoles, there's nothing you can do to improve frame rate or graphic quality. I'm spec'ing out a machine that's a little future proof, so I'm getting a GTX 1080, which will run 4 monitors at once. For the time being, I'll just be running one screen, until I figure out my triple screen hardware. I'm building a beast, so there's going to be a very noticeable difference in graphic quality and overall performance over console. And since both MS and Sony are now changing their models and will more than likely be releasing new consoles every 4-5 years, expense-wise, the only difference between consoles and PC is that consoles gives you limited options and less performance. Most good racing sims are going to be multi-platform or PC only, anyway. Even Sony will soon realize, like MS did, that they need a PC version of GT. And if they don't, who cares? I know people often say that consoles are catching up to PC, but IMO, they never will. They can't, because the units would cost too much. Consoles have to remained below the PC price point, because the closer they get to it, the easier it is to rationalize just getting a PC.
Sony's BS over wheel compatibility was just the last straw for me. Even if they cave, the fact that they even considered it is just reason enough for me. I also plan to check out some flight sims when the PC is up and running. I used to be very into those, but stopped when I switched to consoles and stopped upgrading my old PC.
GrimeyDog
08-08-2016, 16:01
Agree... I suggest building it Now while its Summer time...$$$ wise its Cheaper... When it gets cold out side they raise the Prices of PC because they know your Looking for winter time PC fun n stuff and your more likely to pay more $$$ for it when its too cold to be out side.
Agree... I suggest building it Now while its Summer time...$$$ wise its Cheaper... When it gets cold out side they raise the Prices of PC because they know your Looking for winter time PC fun n stuff and your more likely to pay more $$$ for it when its too cold to be out side.
Oh, yeah! I'm moving on this quick (probably this week), since the GF's on board. If I wait, she may find something else for "us" to do with the money...LOL.
I'd say there's a good chance you'll be making the move soon, as well. For me, all PCars did was open a door. The first Forza got me into racing, and I was content with that franchise for the longest, until I got my first FFB wheel. I didn't realize it at the time, but once I got my first wheel, I was well on my way to coming back to PC. It was inevitable, because if you're evolving your rig, you eventually hit a wall with consoles and can't got any further.
Jack posted updated car settings:cool:
Jack posted updated car settings:cool:
Newer than the v2.9 on oscarolim's site?
Edit: Ah, yes. He posted 3.0 files. Hopefully, oscarolim's site is updated soon, because even on PC, I'd rather enter the values myself, instead of loading the tweaker files. The values don't show up in the game, so it can be confusing and doesn't allow you to make changes on the fly, because it's ignoring the in-car values you see on screen.
Jack posted updated car settings:cool:
Oscar's already updated the site. Looks like Jack's new settings are stronger. He's turned up the Master Scales, dialed the SoP Diff back a bit, and add a little to Fy. I only glanced at the Classic settings, because those are the ones I use. He dialed them up quite a bit, too. A few increments made quite a difference in strength with his old settings, so I'm curious to try these. Especially the increased Fy, as that scale has a tendency to drown other out. I'm sure he's got them balanced, I just can't wait to give them a shot, especially now that I've been using the v2.9 settings for months now. I'll be able to tell the difference immediately.
Jezza819
08-08-2016, 23:50
I have this entire week off from work (thank God as I was about to go crazy) so I've got plenty of time to go back and experiment on cars I've had trouble with, never driven, or just totally abandoned. My first attempt is with the older racing cars like the Ford Mark IV, Lotus Type 40 and the Aston Martin DBR1/300. I spent this afternoon throwing different Jack Spade numbers at them. The Ford I kind of got to behave using the 66% numbers. The Lotus didn't like anything I put on it. The Aston handled ok on 66% but can't keep up with the rest of the field.
How are these cars supposed to behave? Are they supposed to just wallow around, not have very precise steering, not very good brakes? I was using Silverstone International as a test track and to make that first turn I would have to start a long way back because the cars just want to push and push to the left. The Mark IV was horrible on Classic but got better on 66%. It was the best of the bunch.
I know they are older cars but they are still race cars. I guess I'm just confused as what to expect out of them.
Oscar's already updated the site. Looks like Jack's new settings are stronger. He's turned up the Master Scales, dialed the SoP Diff back a bit, and add a little to Fy. I only glanced at the Classic settings, because those are the ones I use. He dialed them up quite a bit, too. A few increments made quite a difference in strength with his old settings, so I'm curious to try these. Especially the increased Fy, as that scale has a tendency to drown other out. I'm sure he's got them balanced, I just can't wait to give them a shot, especially now that I've been using the v2.9 settings for months now. I'll be able to tell the difference immediately.
I've been running curbs minus Classic a few months now and just am in the groove with it, these 3.0 setting feel very much like an improvement IMO, I took the BMW Procar and 2002 Stanceworks for a spin with the new settings and they feel much more intuitive I think is the right word.
Going back a few pages and talking about the occasional FFB glitching, I'm not perfect by any means but I am way too anal when it comes to process, so while I may have done something to contribute to the issues I can't imagine what it might be.
FYI I sent a few of you friend requests in case you want to do some online races, my psn id is ATG__1960(yes double underscore) just add me if you're interested.
Jack posted updated car settings:cool:
Any rumors of a game update? I don't see any mention but Jack usually updates for updates.
I've been running curbs minus Classic a few months now and just am in the groove with it, these 3.0 setting feel very much like an improvement IMO, I took the BMW Procar and 2002 Stanceworks for a spin with the new settings and they feel much more intuitive I think is the right word.
Going back a few pages and talking about the occasional FFB glitching, I'm not perfect by any means but I am way too anal when it comes to process, so while I may have done something to contribute to the issues I can't imagine what it might be.
FYI I sent a few of you friend requests in case you want to do some online races, my psn id is ATG__1960(yes double underscore) just add me if you're interested.
I agree. I didn't get to do a lot of testing tonight, but I tried the BMW M3, and it felt great. Surprisingly, the feel is lighter than I expected, considering the increase in Master scales. For that car, it went from 30 to 42, and yet, combined with the other scale changes, that 42 feels lighter than the 30 with better dynamic range.
I agree. I didn't get to do a lot of testing tonight, but I tried the BMW M3, and it felt great. Surprisingly, the feel is lighter than I expected, considering the increase in Master scales. For that car, it went from 30 to 42, and yet, combined with the other scale changes, that 42 feels lighter than the 30 with better dynamic range.
I'm going to assume the ffb took a powder on me again because I switched to the Formula A and updated the ffb numbers and there's no there there lol, hopefully another reboot will make it a bit more normal, driving Barcelona with no feel is no fun! Cutting the mz in half seems a huge jump.
Any rumors of a game update? I don't see any mention but Jack usually updates for updates.
Not that ive seen.
I agree. I didn't get to do a lot of testing tonight, but I tried the BMW M3, and it felt great. Surprisingly, the feel is lighter than I expected, considering the increase in Master scales. For that car, it went from 30 to 42, and yet, combined with the other scale changes, that 42 feels lighter than the 30 with better dynamic range.
That's weird I actually found it heavier in the 3 cars I tried. Not a ton but enough I tried turning down the ffb one. Its sort of feels just heavy to me where the last setting felt more lively. One thing I did notice is with the new settings when testing the 49c at Monza was my tire temps where down but I had less front grip. I couldn't carry the same speed I'm used to in the corners without sliding up the track. Not sure why changing the ffb would cause such a big drop in temps. Its weird they sort of felt better but out of balance to me. One thing I did notice is it seems the sound effects for tire squealing are connected to the ffb. Its louder with the new settings. I noticed that with grimeys videos too it was way more pronounced then I'm used to hearing. I'm going to try testing them tonight in time trial so everything is the same and see what happens.
I'm going to assume the ffb took a powder on me again because I switched to the Formula A and updated the ffb numbers and there's no there there lol, hopefully another reboot will make it a bit more normal, driving Barcelona with no feel is no fun! Cutting the mz in half seems a huge jump.
That's strange. Not sure what's going on with your FFB. I tried the FA. It's going to take a little getting used to (the Mz cut). The wheel isn't as snappy as it used to be, but when I went back to the old settings, I could tell the new ones had a little more range. It's just the slightly looser wheel that's I have to get used to. I'll try a few more cars tonight.
Have you tried rebuilding the database on PS4?
I have this entire week off from work (thank God as I was about to go crazy) so I've got plenty of time to go back and experiment on cars I've had trouble with, never driven, or just totally abandoned. My first attempt is with the older racing cars like the Ford Mark IV, Lotus Type 40 and the Aston Martin DBR1/300. I spent this afternoon throwing different Jack Spade numbers at them. The Ford I kind of got to behave using the 66% numbers. The Lotus didn't like anything I put on it. The Aston handled ok on 66% but can't keep up with the rest of the field.
How are these cars supposed to behave? Are they supposed to just wallow around, not have very precise steering, not very good brakes? I was using Silverstone International as a test track and to make that first turn I would have to start a long way back because the cars just want to push and push to the left. The Mark IV was horrible on Classic but got better on 66%. It was the best of the bunch.
I know they are older cars but they are still race cars. I guess I'm just confused as what to expect out of them.
Isnt the type 40 the one with the 2 speed transmission? If it is that car is a handful. I'm pretty sure it was meant for high speed runs not road courses so much. The mark iv you can make work pretty well. Iv had some good races with that one but the stock setup needs some help to make it more driveable. The dbr1 ive played with a little bit but not much to really say. I can say I had the same experience with the ai with that car.You do have to remember compared to the newer cars in the game your braking points will be much earlier and your corning speeds much slower in most cases with the older cars. So in a lot of cases they will feel really slow but you can have some good races with them still.
That's weird I actually found it heavier in the 3 cars I tried. Not a ton but enough I tried turning down the ffb one. Its sort of feels just heavy to me where the last setting felt more lively. One thing I did notice is with the new settings when testing the 49c at Monza was my tire temps where down but I had less front grip. I couldn't carry the same speed I'm used to in the corners without sliding up the track. Not sure why changing the ffb would cause such a big drop in temps. Its weird they sort of felt better but out of balance to me. One thing I did notice is it seems the sound effects for tire squealing are connected to the ffb. Its louder with the new settings. I noticed that with grimeys videos too it was way more pronounced then I'm used to hearing. I'm going to try testing them tonight in time trial so everything is the same and see what happens.
Yeah, I thought so too. But I used to run @wheel FF=95. The wheel felt lighter, so I turned it back up to 100. I only tried two cars, but I think the lighter feel has to do with the reduction in Mz (centering forces) and SoP Diff, both of which have an indirect affect on wheel weight. It was less noticable in the BMW M3 where he cut Mz in half and lowered SoP Diff, but then raised the Master 12 increments, which compensated for the loss. On the FA, he halved Mz and lowered SoP Diff, but didn't raise the Master Scale, so that was bound to make the wheel lighter.
Yeah, I thought so too. But I used to run @wheel FF=95. The wheel felt lighter, so I turned it back up to 100. I only tried two cars, but I think the lighter feel has to do with the reduction in Mz (centering forces) and SoP Diff, both of which have an indirect affect on wheel weight. It was less noticable in the BMW M3 where he cut Mz in half and lowered SoP Diff, but then raised the Master 12 increments, which compensated for the loss. On the FA, he halved Mz and lowered SoP Diff, but didn't raise the Master Scale, so that was bound to make the wheel lighter.
That's the thing I found it heavier not lighter like I expected.
That's the thing I found it heavier not lighter like I expected.
Yeah... that might have something to do with hardware, the way each wheel expresses Mz and SoP Diff. Different globals could have an impact as well.
Or, since this is PCars we're talking about, maybe my FFB got corrupted on game load, and the next I boot it up, I'll feel something completely different. :)
Yeah... that might have something to do with hardware, the way each wheel expresses Mz and SoP Diff. Different globals could have an impact as well.
Or, since this is PCars we're talking about, maybe my FFB got corrupted on game load, and the next I boot it up, I'll feel something completely different. :)
Or its mine.lol Id expect yours is right by the replys most are giving on the new tweak. It almost feels to me like a mz heavy setup so maybe ill play with the scoops again and see if they are just off with the new settings. I was really hoping to just plug and play.lol
Or its mine.lol Id expect yours is right by the replys most are giving on the new tweak. It almost feels to me like a mz heavy setup so maybe ill play with the scoops again and see if they are just off with the new settings. I was really hoping to just plug and play.lol
That's a good idea. I'm not using Scoops and, by default, my wheel is way closer to linear than a TM with a much smoother natural curve--no real spikes. So we're running his settings on two very different force curves.
Edit: Although, I tried a few more cars today. It seems that with some, it feels a bit heavier, others not so much, but they all seem to have better dynamic range and just feel better to drive in general.
Jack Spade
09-08-2016, 14:02
Concerning the V3.0 update.
1. The ratio of Fz/SopDiff is key in order to minimize phase issues this wasnīt really precise enough so far, finally this makes it tighter than
before. If youīre not familiar with this kind of issue set SopDiff at zero and check again.
2. On all high downforce cars in general Mz is a little lower to what normally should be there, mainly to minimize oscillation on fast straights
due to FFB dynamic, unfortunately the wheel seems a little weak on slower parts of the track.
3. due to point 1. the ratio of Mz/Fy was adapted here and there, also their levels slightly lowered while MasterScale/SopScale increased in
order to give it a tad more road response without changing Fz/SopDiff (multiplier). In general the global force should not be too much apart to
the previous version.
baza4173
09-08-2016, 14:12
Tried these new settings and has made the feel lots better imo credit to you jack amazing stuff:)
Concerning the V3.0 update.
1. The ratio of Fz/SopDiff is key in order to minimize phase issues this wasnīt really precise enough so far, finally this makes it tighter than
before. If youīre not familiar with this kind of issue set SopDiff at zero and check again.
2. On all high downforce cars in general Mz is a little lower to what normally should be there, mainly to minimize oscillation on fast straights
due to FFB dynamic, unfortunately the wheel seems a little weak on slower parts of the track.
3. due to point 1. the ratio of Mz/Fy was adapted here and there, also their levels slightly lowered while MasterScale/SopScale increased in
order to give it a tad more road response without changing Fz/SopDiff (multiplier). In general the global force should not be too much apart to
the previous version.
The changes are great, Jack. Thanks!
Quick question. If I raise Mz a bit on the high DF cars, would that reintroduce the phase issues you resolved with these changes? I ask because I wasn't really getting any oscillation on the FA. I reduced your Mz=40 to Mz=36 and that took care of it. Lowering Mz to 20, makes the wheel feel loser, less snappy. I'd rather have that, but not if it diminishes the feel. If it does, then I'll just get used to Mz=20.
Hi Guys i've been playing Assetto Corsa since Friday , got 30hrs so far , oh boy does this kick pCars to the curb in so many ways . Mind you i am playing in UHD on PC now , so graphically pCars on PS4 doesnt stand a chance , in AC the FFB out of the box is great , no corupted signal , no lost FFB and understeer is there without even setting it up . If Kunos can get that same level of detail to the console version you guys are in for a treat .
I was going to buy pCars again but for PC now but i think after playing AC i'll wait and see if SMS get the sequal right . After 470hrs I've had enough with all the pCars bugs .
I dont know what it is but even the drift cars just "do it" . Thoses Italians know physic i guess .
Next week i might have a look at adding mods , but im a little scared . Overclocking my GPU and CPU was scary enough , gotta do more research into the risks of mods ( if any).
That's a good idea. I'm not using Scoops and, by default, my wheel is way closer to linear than a TM with a much smoother natural curve--no real spikes. So we're running his settings on two very different force curves.
Edit: Although, I tried a few more cars today. It seems that with some, it feels a bit heavier, others not so much, but they all seem to have better dynamic range and just feel better to drive in general.
I agree with the in general part I just lost the nice turn in feeling of it it getting heavier and really knowing whats going on with these. Even the rear stepping out feels really weird. I'm going to try a couple things tonight and see what happens. Maybe ill just stick with the last version and get back to racing.
I agree with the in general part I just lost the nice turn in feeling of it it getting heavier and really knowing whats going on with these. Even the rear stepping out feels really weird. I'm going to try a couple things tonight and see what happens. Maybe ill just stick with the last version and get back to racing.
Yeah...that's not my experience. I've been racing the BMW M3 and Z4 a lot over the past few weeks. I got in the M3 and went to a familiar track and halfway through the outlap, I could feel the difference and new I liked it. This morning I even turned my @wheel FF back to 95. The cars I've tried so far (most of my favorites) feel like butter. :) But if the new ones aren't working for you, go back to 2.0. That's why Oscar keeps them all on the site. :)
Hi Guys i've been playing Assetto Corsa since Friday , got 30hrs so far , oh boy does this kick pCars to the curb in so many ways . Mind you i am playing in UHD on PC now , so graphically pCars on PS4 doesnt stand a chance , in AC the FFB out of the box is great , no corupted signal , no lost FFB and understeer is there without even setting it up . If Kunos can get that same level of detail to the console version you guys are in for a treat .
I was going to buy pCars again but for PC now but i think after playing AC i'll wait and see if SMS get the sequal right . After 470hrs I've had enough with all the pCars bugs .
I dont know what it is but even the drift cars just "do it" . Thoses Italians know physic i guess .
Next week i might have a look at adding mods , but im a little scared . Overclocking my GPU and CPU was scary enough , gotta do more research into the risks of mods ( if any).
I think I'll be on PC within the next week and was planning to check out AC. I've played it once and seen a lot of videos. I don't know. I think AC graphics are far below PCars. Sure the PC version of AC might look better than console. But, graphically speaking, the PC version of PCars blows the PC version of AC out of the water. ACs graphics are good, but in a side by side PC comparison, PCars looks like next gen graphics, while AC looks like the traditional graphics. It really shows when you look at the environment and road. PCars has a lot more detail.
Of course, I'm pretty sure I'll love AC, because like you said, it way more stable, and I've heard the FFB is very smooth. But I'm going to have to buy them both, because AC just doesn't have the same amount of content, and I'd miss a lot of the tracks and cars from PCars. I could be wrong, but my guess is, after the shinny wears off of AC and you're used to it, you'll miss PCars. I'd be surprised if AC keeps you satisfied until PCars2. :)
I wouldn't worry about the mods. That's the beauty of PC. If you don't like them or have trouble, you can uninstall them, or just do a complete reinstall of the game. It's been a while since I've played games on PC, but in most cases, you can just backup your profile and then copy it back after the reinstall, so you don't lose any progress. :)
Jack Spade
09-08-2016, 16:01
The changes are great, Jack. Thanks!
Quick question. If I raise Mz a bit on the high DF cars, would that reintroduce the phase issues you resolved with these changes? I ask because I wasn't really getting any oscillation on the FA. I reduced your Mz=40 to Mz=36 and that took care of it. Lowering Mz to 20, makes the wheel feel loser, less snappy. I'd rather have that, but not if it diminishes the feel. If it does, then I'll just get used to Mz=20.
As mentioned before Mz is lower as normally should be cause I wanted to be on the safer side with these type of cars. Oscillation occurs if too much
force is on the wheel, if your global setting is more the moderate type of thing then I think youīre good to go with a bit more Mz on these cars, but
I would not say it must be the case in general due to other things I have mentioned. BTW Mz doesnīt cause phase issues itīs the victim.
Jack Spade
09-08-2016, 16:18
I agree with the in general part I just lost the nice turn in feeling of it it getting heavier and really knowing whats going on with these. Even the rear stepping out feels really weird. I'm going to try a couple things tonight and see what happens. Maybe ill just stick with the last version and get back to racing.
Donīt....trust me, the whole thing is more precise and direct, get used to it, perhaps lower TF just slightly, donīt fiddle on the rest.
I agree with the in general part I just lost the nice turn in feeling of it it getting heavier and really knowing whats going on with these. Even the rear stepping out feels really weird. I'm going to try a couple things tonight and see what happens. Maybe ill just stick with the last version and get back to racing.
Donīt....trust me, the whole thing is more precise and direct, get used to it, perhaps lower TF just slightly, donīt fiddle on the rest.
Good point. It's probably similar to how it took a while to get used to less saturation. Give them a week, and then go back to the old ones to compare.
Donīt....trust me, the whole thing is more precise and direct, get used to it, perhaps lower TF just slightly, donīt fiddle on the rest.
I've been running a low TF compared to most and may need to raise it a bit I'm thinking but so far as digging any deeper I hope not, for months now I've made a one point change in scoop values and that's about it, but TF of 55 feels far too empty with these more balanced settings. The reason I went so low in the first place was to address what Jack seems to have smoothed out.
I'm going to have to adjust all my setups based on the new settings as I don't know where the car limits are again, rotating on entry, apex and exit, it's almost laughable but as I mentioned a few days back I've been spending a lot of hours/days in each car I've driven in order to tweak and find my limits in them and get to my "unconscious competence" place, now I'm def back to being consciously incompetent.
Donīt....trust me, the whole thing is more precise and direct, get used to it, perhaps lower TF just slightly, donīt fiddle on the rest.
I do trust you and the guys here. The problem is I'm getting the exact opposite result. I cant feel the car anymore. The wheel just feels heavy and I cant feel grip at all especially coming off a corner. Ill try the tf tonight and scoops and see what happens.
Good point. It's probably similar to how it took a while to get used to less saturation. Give them a week, and then go back to the old ones to compare.
Its not that kind of problem where I could learn to like it.lol I know its hard to explain on here but I'm not getting :D results you guys are. Ill see what happens after tonight.
Its not that kind of problem where I could learn to like it.lol I know its hard to explain on here but I'm not getting :D results you guys are. Ill see what happens after tonight.
Yeah... that's strange, for a couple reasons. One, I wouldn't even call the affects of the change drastic. They're subtle improvements. And two, if you look at the scale changes, they're pretty localized. If you've lost slip feel, then try raising the Mz setting back to where it was before, because that's the centering force. The other issue could be the increased Master Scale is raising your lateral forces (Fy) too high, and they're drowning out the subtleties. In fact, what you described, all weight, no feel, sounds a lot like what happens when Fy is too high. You get all the lateral forces, but no slip feel in corners, because the laterals are too high. If this is the case, I think it might have to do with hardware. The TM wheels don't have the same fidelity as the CSW-v2. So your threshold for clear differentiation has got to be lower. You may have to come down a few increments on Fy and/or raise Mz a bit. I don't think the SoP Diff changes are your problem, as that more about road feel/texture.
GrimeyDog
09-08-2016, 18:59
I agree with the in general part I just lost the nice turn in feeling of it it getting heavier and really knowing whats going on with these. Even the rear stepping out feels really weird. I'm going to try a couple things tonight and see what happens. Maybe ill just stick with the last version and get back to racing.
If your using the latest Fanatec wheel FW 176 that might be throwing your FFB feel off a tad bit also...For me the new FW 176 feels better in the center of the wheel but it seem that cant tell what the rear end is doing like i could with the prior FW... i may Readjust the scoop settings to see if it makes a diff.
They said they readjusted the FFB parameters a bit in the new FW 176...maybe i just need more time to get used to it... I did not do much racing during My 2 week vacation.
Edit: also FW 176 seems to be just a tad stronger than the last FW...with the prior FW 149 i used 75 on wheel FFB with FW 176 if i turn the on wheel FFB down to 65 the FFB feels the same strength wise and still maintains the tighter wheel center with more feel.
So this is happening, should be ready for pick up in a couple days, possibly even tomorrow. :glee:
MSI Z170A motherboard
i7 6700K, 4.0 GHz CPU
Asus GTX 1080 8GB
Corsair Hydro Series H115i Liquid Cooler
G.SKILL 32GB DDR4 SDRAM
Samsung EVO - 500GB SSD
This thing is gonna run PCars smooth as butter.
Concerning the V3.0 update.
1. The ratio of Fz/SopDiff is key in order to minimize phase issues this wasnīt really precise enough so far, finally this makes it tighter than
before. If youīre not familiar with this kind of issue set SopDiff at zero and check again.
2. On all high downforce cars in general Mz is a little lower to what normally should be there, mainly to minimize oscillation on fast straights
due to FFB dynamic, unfortunately the wheel seems a little weak on slower parts of the track.
3. due to point 1. the ratio of Mz/Fy was adapted here and there, also their levels slightly lowered while MasterScale/SopScale increased in
order to give it a tad more road response without changing Fz/SopDiff (multiplier). In general the global force should not be too much apart to
the previous version.
There were two spots at Donnington where my wheel had difficulty and these revised settings seems to have smoothed it out totally, in particular the right hander at the bottom of the downhill feels dramatically better, outstanding!
GrimeyDog
09-08-2016, 20:11
If you dont mind whats the Ball park $$$ figure???
Can that Run Ultra settings???
I. Really thinking about going PC Seriousely... Im going to do console still too unless PC just Really WOW's Me!!!
If you dont mind whats the Ball park $$$ figure???
Can that Run Ultra settings???
I. Really thinking about going PC Seriousely... Im going to do console still too unless PC just Really WOW's Me!!!
It came in at $2000. If I'd went with a GTX 1070 and halved the RAM, it would have been around $1,600. The GTX 1080 is a beast. It can run up to 4 monitors. I got it because I want to run triples, and I also want it to last. It can run PCars on Ultra without breaking a sweat. On a single screen setup, the 1080 should be able to run ultra at 4K.
Honestly, I think you should. Otherwise, you're not getting the most out of your hardware. Fanatec bases and pedals are even more precise when running on PC. And this mess that going on with the console makers is just silly. Whatever they do with VR will never be as good as VR on PC. But, my guess is, if you're already seriously considering it, then you already know this... LOL
Oh, also... the liquid cooling is another place to shave some off the cost. But if sound damping is a concern, then by the time you get the higher-end quiet fans, you probably won't be too far from the liquid cool price anyway.
It came in at $2000. If I'd went with a GTX 1070 and halved the RAM, it would have been around $1,600. The GTX 1080 is a beast. It can run up to 4 monitors. I got it because I want to run triples, and I also want it to last. It can run PCars on Ultra without breaking a sweat. On a single screen setup, the 1080 should be able to run ultra at 4K.
Honestly, I think you should. Otherwise, you're not getting the most out of your hardware. Fanatec bases and pedals are even more precise when running on PC. And this mess that going on with the console makers is just silly. Whatever they do with VR will never be as good as VR on PC. But, my guess is, if you're already seriously considering it, then you already know this... LOL
Oh, also... the liquid cooling is another place to shave some off the cost. But if sound damping is a concern, then by the time you get the higher-end quiet fans, you probably won't be too far from the liquid cool price anyway.
Guys , that 1080 will smash UHD @ ultra , i think , atleast for AC because my 1060 is @ UHD high-ultra , not sure how much more load pCars will add but the 1080 is atleast twice my 1060 and i havnt played 1080p since getting my new Rig .
AC @ UHD high-ultra blows PS4 pCars to the curb , like literally everywhere . I was the biggest pCars fanboi at first but it wore me down with issue after issue , i havnt encountered one issue from AC . I just cant stop playing , even more than happened with pCars .
if i turn off fast sync /v sync the frame rate hits 70fps alot but mostly runs @ 57-64fps , never any lower . the only high settings are shadow , glare and reflection rendering frequency everything else is ultra even mirrors are maxed out , wait till you use high quality and resolution mirrors , wow . Still playing with AA settings , not sure about these , do i use ingame AA or use the graphics card ?
anyway i honestly could be happier , oh maybe with your 1080 Haiden , sweet ! Congrats Mate looks awesome .
ive already unplugged my PS4 and moved it to the kids lounge room , made them happy :) . i dont think i will ever play it again .
anyway back to AC i go . Bye .
make sure to add a SSD , wow load times , brilliant .
GrimeyDog
09-08-2016, 23:28
Guys , that 1080 will smash UHD @ ultra , i think , atleast for AC because my 1060 is @ UHD high-ultra , not sure how much more load pCars will add but the 1080 is atleast twice my 1060 and i havnt played 1080p since getting my new Rig .
AC @ UHD high-ultra blows PS4 pCars to the curb , like literally everywhere . I was the biggest pCars fanboi at first but it wore me down with issue after issue , i havnt encountered one issue from AC . I just cant stop playing , even more than happened with pCars .
if i turn off fast sync /v sync the frame rate hits 70 alot but mostly runs @ 57-64 , never any lower . the only high settings are shadow , glare and reflection rendering frequency everything else is ultra even mirrors are maxed out , wait till you use high quality and resolution mirrors , wow . Still playing with AA settings , not sure about these , do i use ingame AA or use the graphics card ?
anyway i honestly could be happier , oh maybe with your 1080 Haiden , sweet ! Congrats Mate looks awesome .
ive already unplugged my PS4 and moved it to the kids lounge room , made them happy :) . i dont think i will ever play it again .
anyway back to AC i go . Bye .
make sure to add a SSD , wow load times , brilliant .
Do you Run AC through Steam??? If so send Me A Friend invite on Steam.... Steam Tag is Grimey Dog we can Race on AC i Have it My Current OC has No problem Running it on High and some Medium settings, Shadow, Mirror etc.
I think i may order by the weekend:yes:
you will be my first friend , lol
looking now .
i havnt even looked at online racing yet , having to much fun racing the Ai , as strange as it may sound after hearing people talk about AC Ai being poor , i cant see it , you can actually race them .
Yeah... that's strange, for a couple reasons. One, I wouldn't even call the affects of the change drastic. They're subtle improvements. And two, if you look at the scale changes, they're pretty localized. If you've lost slip feel, then try raising the Mz setting back to where it was before, because that's the centering force. The other issue could be the increased Master Scale is raising your lateral forces (Fy) too high, and they're drowning out the subtleties. In fact, what you described, all weight, no feel, sounds a lot like what happens when Fy is too high. You get all the lateral forces, but no slip feel in corners, because the laterals are too high. If this is the case, I think it might have to do with hardware. The TM wheels don't have the same fidelity as the CSW-v2. So your threshold for clear differentiation has got to be lower. You may have to come down a few increments on Fy and/or raise Mz a bit. I don't think the SoP Diff changes are your problem, as that more about road feel/texture.
At this point I just don't get it. I don't know if some of the cars have the wrong settings listed or what. The mustang gt has the master and mz raised and that's exactly what it feels like to me. The pagani revo I thought felt good after a little scoop tweak better than it ever has. The mustang I couldn't do anything with.Dropping mz back to 150 from 200 helped some but still way wrong. I see what he did on a bunch of them dropped in a lot of cases mz and fy some and raised the master. Ok makes sense but then some mz is raised a lot and so is the master. Dropping tf didn't help either. Not as strong obviously but still the same heavy feeling. I'm going to give it another day or so to figure it out and if I don't I'm just going to stay with the last settings.
If you guys move to PC, we have to race together! :D
I do trust you and the guys here. The problem is I'm getting the exact opposite result. I cant feel the car anymore. The wheel just feels heavy and I cant feel grip at all especially coming off a corner. Ill try the tf tonight and scoops and see what happens.
I had to play just a tiny bit with SK, WPS, DRF. 1 or 2 click at most, i'll post them in time. Basically, it was only to deal with the G27 rattly nature. Besides that, it was plug and play!
If you guys move to PC, we have to race together! :D
I had to play just a tiny bit with SK, WPS, DRF. 1 or 2 click at most, i'll post them in time. Basically, it was only to deal with the G27 rattly nature. Besides that, it was plug and play!
For me these new ones are horrible. I don't get it. Just a super heavy wheel in most cases. Can you try the mustang gt and see how it feels? I tried sk and sr with the pagani and thought I had it. But sadly no. The cars that work I see what he did. The pagani revo was really balanced with the forces but the mustang gt not so much.
GrimeyDog
10-08-2016, 02:36
For me these new ones are horrible. I don't get it. Just a super heavy wheel in most cases. Can you try the mustang gt and see how it feels? I tried sk and sr with the pagani and thought I had it. But sadly no. The cars that work I see what he did. The pagani revo was really balanced with the forces but the mustang gt not so much.
You May just be used to the wheel weight of the old FFB settings... I say this because The New V2 FW 176 is just a Tad Stronger and its Has been wreeking Havok on My Cornering just Killing My lap times... I couldnt keep a consistent Lap going at all!!! Just that Tad bit of extra wheel fight while cornering has been killing me for 2 days!!! I finally went through the settings and after Trying all options i went with just turning down the on the wheel FFB from 75 to 65 and all is well again and even better than Before... The tighter wheel center of the New FW gives More Road and Cornering Feel.
you will figure it out you may be over looking a small detail... But No your Not Crazy a Tad bit extra wheel weight/Fight once you get weined off saturated settings feels like a Huge power increase that will kill yout whole Lap...You probably been using your settings long enough to develope Muscle Memory so in a Given turn your body is pre programmed to exert a certain amout of force to turn the wheel... just a Tad Bit of extra weight will throw you off until you reprogram your self.
Maybe Reducing GM FFB to compensate for the Higher Masters will help you get back on track.... Higher Masters are putting more power to the wheel so you will have to reduce else where to compensate.
For me these new ones are horrible. I don't get it. Just a super heavy wheel in most cases. Can you try the mustang gt and see how it feels? I tried sk and sr with the pagani and thought I had it. But sadly no. The cars that work I see what he did. The pagani revo was really balanced with the forces but the mustang gt not so much.
Have you tried making the adjustments to the force scales, without changing the Master Scales? That would at least let you see what the scale balance feels like, and then you can start increasing the master scales. Also, your global FF is pretty low, compared to Jack's (and mine). Could that be affecting the dynamic range, somehow?
Edit: I just saw your RAB, that's also a lot lower, which I think equates to a heavier wheel. These differences in globals could be why the changes are making your wheel too heavy.
For me these new ones are horrible. I don't get it. Just a super heavy wheel in most cases. Can you try the mustang gt and see how it feels? I tried sk and sr with the pagani and thought I had it. But sadly no. The cars that work I see what he did. The pagani revo was really balanced with the forces but the mustang gt not so much.
I did 1/3 of Nord with the Mustang GT. It's been a while since i drove it but i tought it was well planted. The car did what i tought it would do when steering. I'll have to run more with it and compare it to the pagani revo.
Jack Spade
10-08-2016, 08:23
For me these new ones are horrible. I don't get it. Just a super heavy wheel in most cases. Can you try the mustang gt and see how it feels? I tried sk and sr with the pagani and thought I had it. But sadly no. The cars that work I see what he did. The pagani revo was really balanced with the forces but the mustang gt not so much.
With the Mustang GT you have picked one of the SMS extremes as this car has a very low Mz output and a relatively high Fy output, compare those levels with
a similar road car like a Ruf for instance. I tried to set all cars in a similar ballpark concerning their global force in this case MasterScale/SopScale could be
a bit too much lower it 2, 3 or 4 ticks. Again, donīt fiddle on the wheel specifics just adjust TF a bit.
Also, donīt pay too much attention to a single value of this or that, what matters are certain ratios.
GrimeyDog
10-08-2016, 10:48
With the Mustang GT you have picked one of the SMS extremes as this car has a very low Mz output and a relatively high Fy output, compare those levels with
a similar road car like a Ruf for instance. I tried to set all cars in a similar ballpark concerning their global force in this case MasterScale/SopScale could be
a bit too much lower it 2, 3 or 4 ticks. Again, donīt fiddle on the wheel specifics just adjust TF a bit.
Also, donīt pay too much attention to a single value of this or that, what matters are certain ratios.
This is Very Odd i dont find i have to adjust any Global settings for different Cars or Car Classes... once i went to TF/RAC 75 i can drive all cars the Mustang, Ford MK IV, Gt 3 Ruff, FB and down.... FA is the only car that i find i may reduce MZ to 10 or 20 other than FA im using the same in Car settings All Cars with No Changes/Adjustments Needed in the Global settings... I find that all cars feel as I think they should...The Ruff Give a well plated feel, MK IV feels planted but has understeer and the Mustang has quite a bit of Body Roll and Sway but is very controllable... I can also Lower or Raise the Masters from 100 to + or - wheel FFB strength but i find for Me 100 to be well suited for all cars.
Mopwer are you sure that your game save is Not corrupted??? I would Reset the Global Settings and re enter them.... also have you Reset the Mustang in Car settings and Re entered them??? Sometimes its Not the Global or Entire Game save settings that didn't save right it could be just that specific in car settings Needs to be reset and re entered.
Have you tried making the adjustments to the force scales, without changing the Master Scales? That would at least let you see what the scale balance feels like, and then you can start increasing the master scales. Also, your global FF is pretty low, compared to Jack's (and mine). Could that be affecting the dynamic range, somehow?
Edit: I just saw your RAB, that's also a lot lower, which I think equates to a heavier wheel. These differences in globals could be why the changes are making your wheel too heavy.
Rab maybe? That's about the only thing I didn't try last night. You have to remember the t300 default is 75 so I'm only 7 below the max recommended value. With it set at that and the new settings its actually REALLY heavy on some cars. Probably doesn't help everyone is saying how great the new settings are and I'm going wtf? lol
With the Mustang GT you have picked one of the SMS extremes as this car has a very low Mz output and a relatively high Fy output, compare those levels with
a similar road car like a Ruf for instance. I tried to set all cars in a similar ballpark concerning their global force in this case MasterScale/SopScale could be
a bit too much lower it 2, 3 or 4 ticks. Again, donīt fiddle on the wheel specifics just adjust TF a bit.
Also, donīt pay too much attention to a single value of this or that, what matters are certain ratios.
I get the ratio part and have for a long time after playing with the settings in the beginning. I realized right away it wasn't as simple as this does bumps because of the constant interaction between all the settings. That's why I use yours. But tf wont fix what I'm feeling it will just lower the really heavy feeling and I checked for clipping last night and I'm not anywheres near it. I don't know why my settings are so far off with your new ones but something is definitely wrong. I just don't know what yet.
You May just be used to the wheel weight of the old FFB settings... I say this because The New V2 FW 176 is just a Tad Stronger and its Has been wreeking Havok on My Cornering just Killing My lap times... I couldnt keep a consistent Lap going at all!!! Just that Tad bit of extra wheel fight while cornering has been killing me for 2 days!!! I finally went through the settings and after Trying all options i went with just turning down the on the wheel FFB from 75 to 65 and all is well again and even better than Before... The tighter wheel center of the New FW gives More Road and Cornering Feel.
you will figure it out you may be over looking a small detail... But No your Not Crazy a Tad bit extra wheel weight/Fight once you get weined off saturated settings feels like a Huge power increase that will kill yout whole Lap...You probably been using your settings long enough to develope Muscle Memory so in a Given turn your body is pre programmed to exert a certain amout of force to turn the wheel... just a Tad Bit of extra weight will throw you off until you reprogram your self.
Maybe Reducing GM FFB to compensate for the Higher Masters will help you get back on track.... Higher Masters are putting more power to the wheel so you will have to reduce else where to compensate.
I wish it was just a little extra weight.lol Its like I took 3 steps backwards.
Rab maybe? That's about the only thing I didn't try last night. You have to remember the t300 default is 75 so I'm only 7 below the max recommended value. With it set at that and the new settings its actually REALLY heavy on some cars. Probably doesn't help everyone is saying how great the new settings are and I'm going wtf? lol
Don't worry. I got to test a lot more cars last night. I'm not really fond of the new FA feel. The GT classes felt great when I first tried them, but after a long stint last night with a car/track I spent a lot of time on last week, I'm not sure I'm feeling the same dynamic in the corners. I won't really know for sure until this weekend, when I can sit and play with it longer. So far, I'm at least two seconds down on lap times in some cases. I can get into my typical warm up time range, but can't close the gap on my best. Usually, I'm there within 5 or so laps.
I'm positive I don't like the FA feel, though. Lap times are way down. The wheel is too loose/light with the lower Mz. I raised Mz to 30, and it felt a little better.
This is Very Odd i dont find i have to adjust any Global settings for different Cars or Car Classes...
I think you misunderstood. He wasn't referring to the global settings. He's saying the same thing you are--just adjust TF or the in-car Master Scale.
This is Very Odd i dont find i have to adjust any Global settings for different Cars or Car Classes... once i went to TF/RAC 75 i can drive all cars the Mustang, Ford MK IV, Gt 3 Ruff, FB and down.... FA is the only car that i find i may reduce MZ to 10 or 20 other than FA im using the same in Car settings All Cars with No Changes/Adjustments Needed in the Global settings... I find that all cars feel as I think they should...The Ruff Give a well plated feel, MK IV feels planted but has understeer and the Mustang has quite a bit of Body Roll and Sway but is very controllable... I can also Lower or Raise the Masters from 100 to + or - wheel FFB strength but i find for Me 100 to be well suited for all cars.
Mopwer are you sure that your game save is Not corrupted??? I would Reset the Global Settings and re enter them.... also have you Reset the Mustang in Car settings and Re entered them??? Sometimes its Not the Global or Entire Game save settings that didn't save right it could be just that specific in car settings Needs to be reset and re entered.
I thought that too at first but I can go back to the old settings and it works fine so I don't think that's it. Plus I haven't touched the ffb or wheel settings since the last reinstall which was months ago. Its not just the mustang either most of the cars I tried had the same heavy feeling just some weren't as bad.
I thought that too at first but I can go back to the old settings and it works fine so I don't think that's it. Plus I haven't touched the ffb or wheel settings since the last reinstall which was months ago. Its not just the mustang either most of the cars I tried had the same heavy feeling just some weren't as bad.
Yeah... check the RAB. Given what it does. I'm not sure how you would be able to get the same feel with yours set so low. And, IMO, that setting affects slip feel. I tried the lower setting back when you guys were suggesting it, but just didn't like it. Might have been hardware differences, but all it did for me was make the wheel feel firmer/heavier with less slip feel/life. Anything about .10 made the wheel feel a little too lively, in an unrealistic way.
Don't worry. I got to test a lot more cars last night. I'm not really fond of the new FA feel. The GT classes felt great when I first tried them, but after a long stint last night with a car/track I spent a lot of time on last week, I'm not sure I'm feeling the same dynamic in the corners. I won't really know for sure until this weekend, when I can sit and play with it longer. So far, I'm at least two seconds down on lap times in some cases. I can get into my typical warm up time range, but can't close the gap on my best. Usually, I'm there within 5 or so laps.
I'm positive I don't like the FA feel, though. Lap times are way down. The wheel is too loose/light with the lower Mz. I raised Mz to 30, and it felt a little better.
Yeah... check the RAB. Given what it does. I'm not sure how you would be able to get the same feel with yours set so low. And, IMO, that setting affects slip feel. I tried the lower setting back when you guys were suggesting it, but just didn't like it. Might have been hardware differences, but all it did for me was make the wheel feel firmer/heavier with less slip feel/life. Anything about .10 made the wheel feel a little too lively, in an unrealistic way.
If I remember correctly it did the opposite on the t300. It got lighter and livelier. The 49c on Monza was like that. It wasn't horrible but i was driving more by what i knew then what i felt to get close to my times. Just no feeling of grip in the corners especially coming off. The balance of the other things felt pretty good but grip wasn't what i would expect. I liked the way the brakes felt on that car the new settings seemed to help. But if i cant feel grip it doesn't matter.lol
If I remember correctly it did the opposite on the t300. It got lighter and livelier. The 49c on Monza was like that. It wasn't horrible but i was driving more by what i knew then what i felt to get close to my times. Just no feeling of grip in the corners especially coming off. The balance of the other things felt pretty good but grip wasn't what i would expect. I liked the way the brakes felt on that car the new settings seemed to help. But if i cant feel grip it doesn't matter.lol
That's what's I'm getting--a diminished feel for grip on corner entry. Exits aren't that bad, but I'm less dependent on FFB during corner exit, so maybe I'm just not noticing. But entry definitely feels different.
If I remember correctly it did the opposite on the t300. It got lighter and livelier. The 49c on Monza was like that. It wasn't horrible but i was driving more by what i knew then what i felt to get close to my times. Just no feeling of grip in the corners especially coming off. The balance of the other things felt pretty good but grip wasn't what i would expect. I liked the way the brakes felt on that car the new settings seemed to help. But if i cant feel grip it doesn't matter.lol
It could be the new settings and the T300 in particular are not grooving, on Donnington the downhill section coming into that righ hander my wheel always got that grinding feel if my TF was similar to your 75 setting, it's why I ended up running TF in the 50's.
Be that as it may, yes my 300 feels off as well, def loss of fidelity overall and I needed to immediately adjust my caster settings to compensate a little on the turn weighting which feels very different. Oddly enough cranking up TF on the new JS settings did not give me a sense of over saturation, in fact it hardly felt different which is very odd considering that I thought my ffb felt normal again after rebuilding the PS4 database.
I trust in math, Jack's using math, so it looks like I'll need to tweak the t300 again in order to find grip again. But hey it's only another week or two till Asetto Corsa comes out and hopefully the flood of money will enable them to improve on the car and track offerings.
For some reason I encounter that canned ffb glitch on Brands Hatch more often than anywhere else and last night I encountered it five times in a row when I wanted to do some test laps for the next network event, yup Asetto Corsa and something else to focus on will be welcome.
It could be the new settings and the T300 in particular are not grooving, on Donnington the downhill section coming into that righ hander my wheel always got that grinding feel if my TF was similar to your 75 setting, it's why I ended up running TF in the 50's.
Be that as it may, yes my 300 feels off as well, def loss of fidelity overall and I needed to immediately adjust my caster settings to compensate a little on the turn weighting which feels very different. Oddly enough cranking up TF on the new JS settings did not give me a sense of over saturation, in fact it hardly felt different which is very odd considering that I thought my ffb felt normal again after rebuilding the PS4 database.
I trust in math, Jack's using math, so it looks like I'll need to tweak the t300 again in order to find grip again. But hey it's only another week or two till Asetto Corsa comes out and hopefully the flood of money will enable them to improve on the car and track offerings.
For some reason I encounter that canned ffb glitch on Brands Hatch more often than anywhere else and last night I encountered it five times in a row when I wanted to do some test laps for the next network event, yup Asetto Corsa and something else to focus on will be welcome.
Good so its not just me.lol I wouldn't expect raising tf to help with the way it feels. But lowering it didn't help either. I'm going to give it one more night and if I don't make any progress I'm just going to stick with the last settings that worked.
Good so its not just me.lol I wouldn't expect raising tf to help with the way it feels. But lowering it didn't help either. I'm going to give it one more night and if I don't make any progress I'm just going to stick with the last settings that worked.
It's not just you. I sat down for a few laps this morning and ended up leaving an hour late for work...LOL. I know that there's math behind the changes, but I can't ignore what I'm feeling. I drove the BMW Z4 at Brno. That track has a lot of corners with elevation changes, which means a lot of weight transfer and grip changes. I definitely am not getting the same feel of grip with the new in-car settings. I'm driving the same lines, and not feeling the same slips in grip, which I know are happening. The new settings might be mathematically better, but I'm not liking the feel, and I don't have any interest in retuning my globals to get them to work. The v2.9 settings work fine for me. If the 3.0s were plug-and-play, I'd use them. But I'm done fiddling with PCars' FFB system. The past few months have been great--nothing but racing. I'm sticking to that. :)
Grimey - How old is your PC/CPU? Can you just get a new graphics card and maybe toss in some more RAM in for now, and then build a new machine later, using that graphics card and RAM?
GrimeyDog
10-08-2016, 15:41
Grimey - How old is your PC/CPU? Can you just get a new graphics card and maybe toss in some more RAM in for now, and then build a new machine later, using that graphics card and RAM?
I can do that but it just wouldnt be be worth it... The Cost of a New Graphics card is a few Hundred $$$ .... I can Run Assetto Corsa, IRacing and Most other Games at Medium to High settings... Pcars just Demands sooo Much to run it Nicely... I can probably Run PCars too but it wouldnt be worth it with the Fram rate Low and turned down Graphics... It would be only a tad better than PS4...I can get the PC No problem its just a matter of stop procrastinating and doing it... I just dont really wanna blow $2k just to play Pcars... Its pretty Much all i play Now.
when you get your PC we can Run AC on PC if you get it... Im gonna Run some AC today when i get off work Big Dad has Me thinking about Running it again.
I can do that but it just wouldnt be be worth it... The Cost of a New Graphics card is a few Hundred $$$ .... I can Run Assetro Corsa, IRacing and Most other Games at Medium to High settings... Pcars just Demands sooo Much to run it Nicely... I can probably Run PCars too but it wouldnt be worth it with the Fram rate Low and turned down Graphics... It would be only a tad better than PS4...I can get the PC No problem its just a matter of stop procrastinating and doing it... I just dont really wanna blow $2k just to play Pcars... Its pretty Much all i play Now.
when you get your PC we can Run AC on PC if you get it... Im gonna Run some AC today when i get off Big Dad has Me thinking about Running it again.
Yeah... I can understand that. There are a few other things I'm planning to get into on PC--VR, flight sims, Mass Effect (since Bioware won't make an Xb1 version...LOL). Also, I've seen and played PCars on a higher end machine. The graphics aren't really that much better. Even when you set the GPU to override the game's settings, the images aren't much better than the PS4. A little, but not much. The main difference is frame rate and FFB feel. PC FFB is so much smoother and detailed than both consoles. The graphics on PCars is what it is. I think that's SMS' doing to manage frame rates. Because unless you have a beast of a GPU, it's an extremely resource taxing game. They had to do that to make it accessible to all players.
Jack Spade
10-08-2016, 16:49
Guys to clarify one thing.
In all previous versions phase cancellation was much more present than what it is now, the way the system works wonīt be free of it completely but
I came much closer to it. The reason is Fz is a negative force, the effect of it is like reversing the phase on one of the speakers on your stereo at home,
bass is cancelling out. In the tweaker files I use SopDiff (positive force) to minimize phase cancellation as much as possible, most effective if the
levels of Fz/SopDiff are on par, but itīs not that easy to archive cause those forces are dynamic. I found a better method to assess those forces
more precise. An example, if in the previous version the wheel suggest understeer as it gets a little lighter this could also be phase cancellation at a
certain turning angle on top of it, in a worst case scenario you can not distinguish between the real thing and just a flaw.
Also, adding even the well balanced pair of vertical forces to the mix still is a compromise of how much road response to archive without too much
sacrifice of other stuff, one of the reasons I added an other set of files where these forces are set way lower in order to come more closer to zero
phase issues. As mentioned in the update notes the wheel now is tighter and more precise than before, in this case tighter seems stronger but you
wonīt loose anything by reducing TF just slightly if necessary.
Guys to clarify one thing.
In all previous versions phase cancellation was much more present than what it is now, the way the system works wonīt be free of it completely but
I came much closer to it. The reason is Fz is a negative force, the effect of it is like reversing the phase on one of the speakers on your stereo at home,
bass is cancelling out. In the tweaker files I use SopDiff (positive force) to minimize phase cancellation as much as possible, most effective if the
levels of Fz/SopDiff are on par, but itīs not that easy to archive cause those forces are dynamic. I found a better method to assess those forces
more precise. An example, if in the previous version the wheel suggest understeer as it gets a little lighter this could also be phase cancellation at a
certain turning angle on top of it, in a worst case scenario you can not distinguish between the real thing and just a flaw.
Also, adding even the well balanced pair of vertical forces to the mix still is a compromise of how much road response to archive without too much
sacrifice of other stuff, one of the reasons I added an other set of files where these forces are set way lower in order to come more closer to zero
phase issues. As mentioned in the update notes the wheel now is tighter and more precise than before, in this case tighter seems stronger but you
wonīt loose anything by reducing TF just slightly if necessary.
In the FA, the wheel actually feels looser. Which, given the fact that Mz was lowered without raising the Master Scale, actually makes sense. Personally, I don't like the lighter, looser feel in an F1-style car. I want that type of car to be snappy and tight. Are you saying the new FA settings feel tighter to you? :confused:
Also, I get what you're saying (at least I think I do) about phase cancellation, and that some of the slip feel we might have been feeling was actually a cancellation, but that doesn't explain why I'm not losing it in corners. Understeer isn't the problem. With the new settings, I can't feel the grip and I'm losing the back end, or carrying too much speed into corners, because I can't feel the grip and therefore can't threshold brake as well as I used to. If it was just a matter of the wheel feeling lighter (or even looser), I'd just take the time to get used to it. But that's not the issue. :(
Gamer82678
10-08-2016, 17:03
Just want to share basic settings from recently acquired T300 Servo Base. :cool:
Gamer82678
10-08-2016, 17:39
Had to make sure I had a backup for T300 RS Base. :rolleyes:
Force Feedback Strength at 35 for T300 Servo Base.
Force Feedback Strength at 30 for T300 RS Base.
Tested Jacks new 3.0 settings for a little while yesterday at Le Mans in Audi e-tron quattro.
FFB was sweeter than mudda fuggin bear meat ! :cool:
Had steering gain up to 1.45 and fan did not turn on at all ! :cool:
I don't know about you guys that run such high FFB strength on T300 because it just may be pushing it out of it's high detail range ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
When I do the linearity analysis in Google Sheets Force Feedback I think it may be very important to observe the orange line of Normalized Wheel-Output because this is the butt nakedness of wheel response with no mathematical alteration.
I take it that it is the unadulterated natural response of wheel at FFB strength level.
I take separate analysis at several FFB strength levels to try to find the most linear Normalized Wheel-Output fall off.
The wheels natural butt naked capability at a particular FFB strength.
Do not be afraid to look at your wheels butt nakedness ! :rolleyes:
I feel you have to be a little careful when your Normalized Wheel-Output of T300 is above linearity from FFB strength ! :rolleyes:
Jack Spade
10-08-2016, 17:41
In the FA, the wheel actually feels looser. Which, given the fact that Mz was lowered without raising the Master Scale, actually makes sense. Personally, I don't like the lighter, looser feel in an F1-style car. I want that type of car to be snappy and tight. Are you saying the new FA settings feel tighter to you? :confused:
Also, I get what you're saying (at least I think I do) about phase cancellation, and that some of the slip feel we might have been feeling was actually a cancellation, but that doesn't explain why I'm not losing it in corners. Understeer isn't the problem. With the new settings, I can't feel the grip and I'm losing the back end, or carrying too much speed into corners, because I can't feel the grip and therefore can't threshold brake as well as I used to. If it was just a matter of the wheel feeling lighter (or even looser), I'd just take the time to get used to it. But that's not the issue. :(
Again, Mz is deliberately lower on high downforce cars due to oscillation issues some people have with these cars, if youīre not one of them
increase it to your liking. Iīm pretty sure about some issues of the previous version for quite some time now otherwise I wouldnīt have
started this bloody task again, as a perfectionist in this case I could not live with it, if anybody thinks the previous version fits better should
keep it and forget about their FFB menus, especially on consoles where you have to set every value manually.
Tested Jacks new 3.0 settings for a little while yesterday at Le Mans in Audi e-tron quattro.
FFB was sweeter than mudda fuggin bear meat ! :cool:
Had steering gain up to 1.45 and fan did not turn on at all ! :cool:
I had thought about that. His globals show SG at 1.05 - 1.45. I'm running it at 1.0. In the past, 1.45 only results in a massive loss of slip feel. But maybe I'll give 1.05 a try before going back to 2.9.
Gamer82678
10-08-2016, 17:45
Default 75 FFB Strength T300 RS.
? ? ? ? ? ?
Can't get blood from a turnip ! :rolleyes:
Look at that orange line like a monster out off control ! :rolleyes:
The orange line is the wheels natural response ! :rolleyes:
Observe that orange line of Normalized Wheel-Ouput ! ! ! ! ! ! !
You know what they say when you try to fight Mother Nature ! :rolleyes:
Guys with T300 running at high base FFB strength consider testing your wheel and running at a lower base FFB strength with Project Cars.
You will get all that torque strength back with Deadzone Removal, Deadzone Removal Falloff, Scoop Knee and Scoop Reduction plus I think a bit more detail and fidelity ! :cool:
Don't be afraid to look at your wheels butt nakedness ! :rolleyes:
You will find FFB sweeter than mudda fuggin bear meat ! :cool:
Guys to clarify one thing.
In all previous versions phase cancellation was much more present than what it is now, the way the system works wonīt be free of it completely but
I came much closer to it. The reason is Fz is a negative force, the effect of it is like reversing the phase on one of the speakers on your stereo at home,
bass is cancelling out. In the tweaker files I use SopDiff (positive force) to minimize phase cancellation as much as possible, most effective if the
levels of Fz/SopDiff are on par, but itīs not that easy to archive cause those forces are dynamic. I found a better method to assess those forces
more precise. An example, if in the previous version the wheel suggest understeer as it gets a little lighter this could also be phase cancellation at a
certain turning angle on top of it, in a worst case scenario you can not distinguish between the real thing and just a flaw.
Also, adding even the well balanced pair of vertical forces to the mix still is a compromise of how much road response to archive without too much
sacrifice of other stuff, one of the reasons I added an other set of files where these forces are set way lower in order to come more closer to zero
phase issues. As mentioned in the update notes the wheel now is tighter and more precise than before, in this case tighter seems stronger but you
wonīt loose anything by reducing TF just slightly if necessary.
Jack,
I tried that last night and someone else on here started much lower at 55-60 and still had the same result. The overall heavy wheel is still there with no detail anymore. I guess if I had to describe it it feels a lot like an overly saturated setup. Which I know its not. I don't get it at this point maybe its a t300 thing.
Had to make sure I had a backup for T300 RS Base. :rolleyes:
Force Feedback Strength at 35 for T300 Servo Base.
Force Feedback Strength at 30 for T300 RS Base.
Tested Jacks new 3.0 settings for a little while yesterday at Le Mans in Audi e-tron quattro.
FFB was sweeter than mudda fuggin bear meat ! :cool:
Had steering gain up to 1.45 and fan did not turn on at all ! :cool:
I don't know about you guys that run such high FFB strength on T300 because it just may be pushing it out of it's high detail range ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
When I do the linearity analysis in Google Sheets Force Feedback I think it may be very important to observe the orange line of Normalized Wheel-Output because this is the butt nakedness of wheel response with no mathematical alteration.
I take it that it is the unadulterated natural response of wheel at FFB strength level.
I take separate analysis at several FFB strength levels to try to find the most linear Normalized Wheel-Output fall off.
The wheels natural butt naked capability at a particular FFB strength.
Do not be afraid to look at your wheels butt nakedness ! :rolleyes:
I feel you have to be a little careful when your Normalized Wheel-Output of T300 is above linearity from FFB strength ! :rolleyes:
Maybe I'm just not following you here.
Are you saying you tested various input strengths to find the sweet spot and landed on 35% as the max strength before needing to adjust in a downwards direction?
Would you mind detailing your settings for review up on the oscarlim site?
Again, Mz is deliberately lower on high downforce cars due to oscillation issues some people have with these cars, if youīre not one of them
increase it to your liking. Iīm pretty sure about some issues of the previous version for quite some time now otherwise I wouldnīt have
started this bloody task again, as a perfectionist in this case I could not live with it, if anybody thinks the previous version fits better should
keep it and forget about their FFB menus, especially on consoles where you have to set every value manually.
Don't get me wrong. I'm not debating the benefit/value of 3.0. It's obviously working for a lot of people. Just not for me, for some reason. I'll give it a little more time this weekend. If it doesn't pan out, I'll just go back to v2.9. Either way, I'm glad you did the work and appreciate the effort. :)
Jack,
I tried that last night and someone else on here started much lower at 55-60 and still had the same result. The overall heavy wheel is still there with no detail anymore. I guess if I had to describe it it feels a lot like an overly saturated setup. Which I know its not. I don't get it at this point maybe its a t300 thing.
Yes to the it being a t300 issue, I think we tweaked around the phase issue to find settings with fidelity. Intellectually the 3.0 settings make sense now that we have a better understanding of the system.
God help me but I may dive in and start fresh to see if I can find balance again, now that I have functioning ffb I can just plug the settings back in and all I lose is some time.
Gamer82678
10-08-2016, 18:30
Sorry !
Meant to reply with quote !
1 finger typing on iPad can get tricky ! :rolleyes:
Gamer82678
10-08-2016, 18:33
Maybe I'm just not following you here.
Are you saying you tested various input strengths to find the sweet spot and landed on 35% as the max strength before needing to adjust in a downwards direction?
Would you mind detailing your settings for review up on the oscarlim site?
Yes.
Well actually upwards or whatever !
I always test at various FFB strengths ! It's the only way to find out what's going on with your wheel !
With the T300 RS Base I utilize 30 FFB strength with the recently acquired T300 Servo Base 35 FFB strength.
I will share a YouTube vid when I get the time.
OK. I will try detailing settings for review on oscarlim site after that since you asked.
But, always remember what works for me may not work for others because each wheel FFB response is like a snow flake !
Yes.
Well actually upwards or whatever !
I always test at various FFB strengths ! It's the only way to find out what's going on with your wheel !
With the T300 RS Base I utilize 30 FFB strength with the recently acquired T300 Servo Base 35 FFB strength.
I will share a YouTube vid when I get the time.
OK. I will try detailing settings for review on oscarlim site after that since you asked.
But, always remember what works for me may not work for others because each wheel FFB response is like a snow flake !
Settings on pc profiler are what? I'd like to try and reproduce your results so as much info as you can provide is appreciated but I don't need a video for that.
driveclub007
10-08-2016, 18:54
What gain and bleed and clamp settings are you using with those scoop settings I have a t300rs but at the moment I don't use any scoop settings.
What gain and bleed and clamp settings are you using with those scoop settings I have a t300rs but at the moment I don't use any scoop settings.
Gamer said he's going to post his details here -> http://pcars.oscarolim.pt/wheel-settings/browse/ps4-1
Default 75 FFB Strength T300 RS.
? ? ? ? ? ?
Can't get blood from a turnip ! :rolleyes:
Look at that orange line like a monster out off control ! :rolleyes:
The orange line is the wheels natural response ! :rolleyes:
Observe that orange line of Normalized Wheel-Ouput ! ! ! ! ! ! !
You know what they say when you try to fight Mother Nature ! :rolleyes:
Guys with T300 running at high base FFB strength consider testing your wheel and running at a lower base FFB strength with Project Cars.
You will get all that torque strength back with Deadzone Removal, Deadzone Removal Falloff, Scoop Knee and Scoop Reduction plus I think a bit more detail and fidelity ! :cool:
Don't be afraid to look at your wheels butt nakedness ! :rolleyes:
You will find FFB sweeter than mudda fuggin bear meat ! :cool:
Deadzone has nothing to do with wheel strength just so we don't mislead somebody.
Yes to the it being a t300 issue, I think we tweaked around the phase issue to find settings with fidelity. Intellectually the 3.0 settings make sense now that we have a better understanding of the system.
God help me but I may dive in and start fresh to see if I can find balance again, now that I have functioning ffb I can just plug the settings back in and all I lose is some time.
Agree 100% that could be the issue. I just don't get how its so drastic. I don't think jack is wrong with what he was doing and I hope he doesn't think that's what I was saying. Some cars like the pagani I thought were an improvement but the mustang I might as well be driving a no power steering dumptruck. I don't get it. Just every other version was a little tweak and all was good but this one is drastic and backwards for some reason. At this point with ac coming out and pcars 2 probably not far off I'm not starting all over again. I just want to race and enjoy pcars so I may just stick with the last settings that I was happy with.
Agree 100% that could be the issue. I just don't get how its so drastic. I don't think jack is wrong with what he was doing and I hope he doesn't think that's what I was saying. Some cars like the pagani I thought were an improvement but the mustang I might as well be driving a no power steering dumptruck. I don't get it. Just every other version was a little tweak and all was good but this one is drastic and backwards for some reason. At this point with ac coming out and pcars 2 probably not far off I'm not starting all over again. I just want to race and enjoy pcars so I may just stick with the last settings that I was happy with.
Exactly. I'll try the new settings in all the cars I drive. If they feel better, great; I'll stick with it. If not, then I'll lower the changed scales (there are only a few). If that doesn't work, I'll go back to 2.9 for that car. No trouble. But I don't have the motivation to stop racing and go back to retuning my globals.
Exactly. I'll try the new settings in all the cars I drive. If they feel better, great; I'll stick with it. If not, then I'll lower the changed scales (there are only a few). If that doesn't work, I'll go back to 2.9 for that car. No trouble. But I don't have the motivation to stop racing and go back to retuning my globals.
Problem solved for those running my settings or something close. Turn the rab back up. Start at .10 and go from there. Haiden id try playing with that for you too. Huge difference. Like night and day! Jacks a genius and these settings are awesome so far! If I had to guess id say its from the fact he got rid of the forces canceling each other that are causing the need for a drastic change in rab. Jack any thoughts on this? Might help someone else.
Problem solved for those running my settings or something close. Turn the rab back up. Start at .10 and go from there. Haiden id try playing with that for you too. Huge difference. Like night and day! Jacks a genius and these settings are awesome so far! If I had to guess id say its from the fact he got rid of the forces canceling each other that are causing the need for a drastic change in rab. Jack any thoughts on this? Might help someone else.
Yeah... I was planning on trying that later tonight. I used to run it at .10, but lowered it to .08.
Just picked up the new PC, so I'm gonna be busy tonight. I'm gonna start with the v2.9 settings, so I can actually compare the difference on PC. Once I get it everything running smoothly, I'll give 3.0 another shot.
Yeah... I was planning on trying that later tonight. I used to run it at .10, but lowered it to .08.
Just picked up the new PC, so I'm gonna be busy tonight. I'm gonna start with the v2.9 settings, so I can actually compare the difference on PC. Once I get it everything running smoothly, I'll give 3.0 another shot.
I'm really liking the new settings now. A lot more feel from everything. Its odd the rab changed that much from the old setting. Just that and dropped the ffb a couple and everything I tried so far was great. Good luck with the new pc!
I'm really liking the new settings now. A lot more feel from everything. Its odd the rab changed that much from the old setting. Just that and dropped the ffb a couple and everything I tried so far was great. Good luck with the new pc!
Yeah... when you mentioned that, it sounded exactly like the problem I had when I tried the lower RAB settings. Glad it was that easy. I'm looking forward to trying it.
PC is great. Matches my rig. So far, so good. Everything working fine. Downloading PCars now. :)
Yeah... when you mentioned that, it sounded exactly like the problem I had when I tried the lower RAB settings. Glad it was that easy. I'm looking forward to trying it.
PC is great. Matches my rig. So far, so good. Everything working fine. Downloading PCars now. :)
I'm going to need your steam id :)
Mine's poir.qc
GrimeyDog
11-08-2016, 03:13
Haiden are you going to Buy Assetto Corsa for PC??? I spent the Afternoon Tweeking My PC settings and I Must Say Assetto Corsa Has Gotten Much Much Better than it was!!! Its Much Better than i remember it... It Really Slapped Me with a WOW Effect!!! I Highly Recommend you get it... The FFB is Right on Par with PCars Bump, Road, Curb Feel Right out the Box!!!
If Kunos can deliver this Same FFB to Console it could Really Really be a Huge thorn in PCars Side!!!
I see No reason why the FFB would be Less for PS4 because Pcars was able to do it.
Graphics wise My PC Blows PS4 away...But again i see No Reason why Assetto Corsa Graphics wont be on Par and More than likely better than Pcars because there is Less Going on No Dynamic Weather, No Time Shift etc so that Gives it More room to just push out Graphics and keep the Frame Rate up:yes:
The FFB is Very Similar to Pcars without the Need to Tweek... I was Testing on Monza Pcars VS Assetto Corsa with the Gt3 BMW z4
Assetto Corsa has Come a Long way!!! Some will Argue it has Canned Effects etc... To that I Say Stuff it!!! Assetto Corsa Feels Dam Good ... the Similarity between Asseto Corsa and Pcars feel is sooo Close they could be Fraternal Twins!!!
Haiden are you going to Buy Assetto Corsa for PC??? I spent the Afternoon Tweeking My PC settings and I Must Say Assetto Corsa Has Gotten Much Much Better than it was!!! Its Much Better than i remember it... It Really Slapped Me with a WOW Effect!!! I Highly Recommend you get it... The FFB is Right on Par with PCars Bump, Road, Curb Feel Right out the Box!!!
If Kunos can deliver this Same FFB to Console it could Really Really be a Huge thorn in PCars Side!!!
I see No reason why the FFB would be Less for PS4 because Pcars was able to do it.
Graphics wise My PC Blows PS4 away...But again i see No Reason why Assetto Corsa Graphics wont be on Par and More than likely better than Pcars because there is Less Going on No Dynamic Weather, No Time Shift etc so that Gives it More room to just push out Graphics and keep the Frame Rate up:yes:
The FFB is Very Similar to Pcars without the Need to Tweek... I was Testing on Monza Pcars VS Assetto Corsa with the Gt3 BMW z4
Assetto Corsa has Come a Long way!!! Some will Argue it has Canned Effects etc... To that I Say Stuff it!!! Assetto Corsa Feels Dam Good ... the Similarity between Asseto Corsa and Pcars feel is sooo Close they could be Fraternal Twins!!!
Yeah, I agree Assetto Corsa really rocks the wow factor.
If it uses canned ffb then that's what pcars should have used. But then there wouldn't be the need for hours upon hours upon hours trying to get it right, who wants to race in car game when you could be in menus adjusting sliders and posting on the official forum for 250 pages,lol.
If you think Assetto Corsa looks good @1080p you should see it @4K. Awesome.
Yeah... I was planning on trying that later tonight. I used to run it at .10, but lowered it to .08.
Just picked up the new PC, so I'm gonna be busy tonight. I'm gonna start with the v2.9 settings, so I can actually compare the difference on PC. Once I get it everything running smoothly, I'll give 3.0 another shot.
I think your mad for going straight to pcars?
Using that GTX1080 with that i7 any game you want should look dam fine.
Jack Spade
11-08-2016, 06:36
Problem solved for those running my settings or something close. Turn the rab back up. Start at .10 and go from there. Haiden id try playing with that for you too. Huge difference. Like night and day! Jacks a genius and these settings are awesome so far! If I had to guess id say its from the fact he got rid of the forces canceling each other that are causing the need for a drastic change in rab. Jack any thoughts on this? Might help someone else.
Honestly no....youīre on a different wheel, probably a certain wheel specific parameter has more impact on yours than what I would have expected,
anyway Iīm glad youīre back in business.
GrimeyDog
11-08-2016, 08:57
Jack Spade are you Really still using FW 116 in your V2:confused: if so i suggest you update the V2 FW has Really come a long way and is Much Better:yes:
GrimeyDog
11-08-2016, 10:17
Yeah, I agree Assetto Corsa really rocks the wow factor.
If it uses canned ffb then that's what pcars should have used. But then there wouldn't be the need for hours upon hours upon hours trying to get it right, who wants to race in car game when you could be in menus adjusting sliders and posting on the official forum for 250 pages,lol.
If you think Assetto Corsa looks good @1080p you should see it @4K. Awesome.
What wheel are you using Now? and How did you Map your Pause and Reset car to track buttons to the wheel?... Its been a while since i last played Assetto Corsa...Seems that they have really Changed the Button Mapping Config with poor labeling... its Hard to tell what buttons map spaces do what:confused: If i remember Correctly i used to be able to Map the Pause button to the wheel...or Maybe My Brain is just Burnt out from the Pcars Tweeking:p
Edit: Playing Assetto Corsa actually Helped Me Really Confirm that the Newest V2 FW 176 is stronger than the Last FW 142.... With 176 the wheel center is Much more precise and has Much More wheel center Feel that makes the wheel feel Stronger/Heavier... I was using 75 on wheel FFB and would switch back and forth between 75 and 65 on wheel FFB trying to really Note exactly what was different... Only after Playing Assetto Corsa did i Realize that that the wheel was Not just tighter in the Center but it was Heavier throughout the Entire turning Range!!!Just a Tad Bit More weight really can throw you off!!! Pcars has a bit of Progressive turn feel but you feel it mostly as weight transfer while Assetto Corsa has a Really Nice even if it is a tad bit over exagerated Progressive wheel Feel... The center of the wheel Has a Very tight but still light and Nimble feel but the faster your going while turning the Stiffer the wheel gets...While turning at a fast speed as you get closer to full DOR the wheel really has alot of fight in it... Konos Really Nailed that Feel Nicely!!! also when your going into a turn Hot Front wheel Lock up is Much easier to feel... If Assetto Corsa feels and Looks on PS4 like it does on PC Pcars is Really going to Have some stiff competition!!! I will play both games because they have very different cars and Tracks...I would Luve to Scortch the Gt3 Ruf around Mugello!!!
Honestly no....youīre on a different wheel, probably a certain wheel specific parameter has more impact on yours than what I would have expected,
anyway Iīm glad youīre back in business.
I honestly have no idea why all of the sudden I needed such a drastic change. Its never happened before with your settings. That's the only thing I can think of is when you fixed more of the phase cancelation problems it caused issues with the rab. The new settings are very clear I guess I would call it with an overall better feel in all the cars I tried last night. Nice job!!!!!
I'm going to need your steam id :)
Mine's poir.qc
Haiden773. I sent you and request. :)
Haiden are you going to Buy Assetto Corsa for PC??? I spent the Afternoon Tweeking My PC settings and I Must Say Assetto Corsa Has Gotten Much Much Better than it was!!! Its Much Better than i remember it... It Really Slapped Me with a WOW Effect!!! I Highly Recommend you get it... The FFB is Right on Par with PCars Bump, Road, Curb Feel Right out the Box!!!
If Kunos can deliver this Same FFB to Console it could Really Really be a Huge thorn in PCars Side!!!
I see No reason why the FFB would be Less for PS4 because Pcars was able to do it.
Graphics wise My PC Blows PS4 away...But again i see No Reason why Assetto Corsa Graphics wont be on Par and More than likely better than Pcars because there is Less Going on No Dynamic Weather, No Time Shift etc so that Gives it More room to just push out Graphics and keep the Frame Rate up:yes:
The FFB is Very Similar to Pcars without the Need to Tweek... I was Testing on Monza Pcars VS Assetto Corsa with the Gt3 BMW z4
Assetto Corsa has Come a Long way!!! Some will Argue it has Canned Effects etc... To that I Say Stuff it!!! Assetto Corsa Feels Dam Good ... the Similarity between Asseto Corsa and Pcars feel is sooo Close they could be Fraternal Twins!!!
I downloaded it last night. It's pretty cool. Much better than I expected. The car line up is great, at least for me, because it's got what I like. I have to admit, the GUI is shit, way too convoluted, but I'm sure I'll get used to it. Everything there, but from a design perspective, there isn't good separation/differentiation to make options stand out. Maybe it's just me. The FOV settings are going to take a bit to get right, too. The track is too narrow for me, but when I lower the FOV and get the track width to a decent size, I lose too much windshield space, and then can't see where I'm going...LOL
But the FFB is really good. I still need to do some tweaking, though. I played for about an hour last night, then went back to PCars to finish getting that setup. I have to say, it's hard to judge the graphics in a comparison, because the engines are so different. Both are awesome on PC, but I'm not sure which one I'd say is the best yet. I have to play more. I do know the Nords looks way better on AC, though. Not the graphic quality, but the road detail. It's amazing!
The canned effect really work with AC, especially the feel of the track surface. But I wouldn't consider it better than PCars. I'm glad they both took different approaches, because it makes for two very different experiences. AC's physics do seem tougher than PCars. I think, from that perspective, its more simulation style, and requires more focus and control to turn a fast lap. I was loving the first hour.
That's said, when I went back to PCars, and immediately realize that I will love both of these games. PCars felt great when I came back to it. PCars' FFB on PC is way more nuanced than on console. I started with 2.9 to make sure I could feel the difference, and it was amazing.
I honestly have no idea why all of the sudden I needed such a drastic change. Its never happened before with your settings. That's the only thing I can think of is when you fixed more of the phase cancelation problems it caused issues with the rab. The new settings are very clear I guess I would call it with an overall better feel in all the cars I tried last night. Nice job!!!!!
Changing RAB from .08 to .10 made a world of difference for me. The v3.0 settings are f'ing brilliant! Thanks Jack!
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