[XB1] Thrustmaster TX Discussion

[crunchy1X]

I've been told that the game does adjust the DOR of the wheel as needed. The intended way to set it up is to leave the wheel at 900° and use the steering sensitivity to reduce the amount of steering input so that you don't have to do hand-over-hand in tight corners. You can also use the steering ratio to make fine adjustments for different tracks.

Are you saying that you use a wheel and it works this way for you?

[Ixoye56]

The automatic DOR doesn't work good for all cars in the game IMO, road cars especially, If I must change DOR on the wheel to be satisfied I use 360 degrees.

[beetes_juice]

Are you saying that you use a wheel and it works this way for you?

Crunchy, Dk if you have but read every single post from the jack spade spreadsheet thread in here. Its actually not a bad read and there is some great info in there.

I run 900 on my tx and mainly run the F1 cars. Under normal racing and cornering speed you should not have to hand over hand rotate. As Schnizz58 said leave the dor at 900 and play around with the steering sensitivity and steering ratio per car and should be good to go.

I would say this is all to users taste so use whatever you like.

[Jezza819]

I hard set the base of my wheel at 270 then calibrate it. If I run into a scenario where I think I'm hitting the hard stop too much I'll reset the base for 360 and go into the car's settings and cut the steering ratio in half or as close to half as I can get it. That allows the car to achieve it's turning radius quicker and gives me just a little more rotation.

[Umer Ahmad]

The recommended (or Official)

1. Calibrate to the wheel's FULL 900
2. Keep Steering Sensitivity = 50 (1:1 Linear)
3. Adjust Steering Ratio in car-specific tuning setup menu, can even do this per car/track

It's not worth messing about with anything less than your FULL wheel degrees of rotation or a non-linear steering sensitivty curve. Those can work but are inferior solutions.

[PTG Ty1er Ward]

The recommended (or Official)

1. Calibrate to the wheel's FULL 900
2. Keep Steering Sensitivity = 50 (1:1 Linear)
3. Adjust Steering Ratio in car-specific tuning setup menu, can even do this per car/track

It's not worth messing about with anything less than your FULL wheel degrees of rotation or a non-linear steering sensitivty curve. Those can work but are inferior solutions.

What about wheels like the Thrusmaster Spider which only have a physical 240 DOR? Or that the Thustmaster TX with the F1 rim has a physical 360 DOR as default on PC? Please understand I'm not challenging your response in an argumentative way because I'm willing to learn why this keeps being said. I play on both PC and Xbox One. I calibrate the wheel at my preferred DOR (and never change from 50 sensitivity) then use the steering ratio for fine tuning. It doesn't seem to make sense to me that you say "it's not worth messing with non-linear curve" and then suggest adjusting the steering ratio- because that's exactly what the steering ratio setting does -changes the the steering linearity.

Tire Force is the global/master and Master Spindle is the Car/tune/track specific

Similar in a sense to

Steering Sensitivity is the global/master and steering ratio is the car/tune/track specific

Please- I willing to learn why this keeps getting repeated. I have hours and hours of testing and recorded game clips also showing how to calculate the right Steering ratios for manually set DORs for other members of my racing team and members of our forum community as well. Does manually setting a DOR then calibrating mess with the FFB model? It doesn't seem to, but I know FFB has been updated/patched so maybe now it does. The only thing I've seen is that "FFB model doesn't like low steering ratios". Myself and others love PCars so anything you can share would be extremely helpful.

[Neil Hopwood]

What about wheels like the Thrusmaster Spider which only have a physical 240 DOR? Or that the Thustmaster TX with the F1 rim has a physical 360 DOR as default on PC? Please understand I'm not challenging your response in an argumentative way because I'm willing to learn why this keeps being said. I play on both PC and Xbox One. I calibrate the wheel at my preferred DOR (and never change from 50 sensitivity) then use the steering ratio for fine tuning. It doesn't seem to make sense to me that you say "it's not worth messing with non-linear curve" and then suggest adjusting the steering ratio- because that's exactly what the steering ratio setting does -changes the the steering linearity.

Tire Force is the global/master and Master Spindle is the Car/tune/track specific

Similar in a sense to

Steering Sensitivity is the global/master and steering ratio is the car/tune/track specific

Please- I willing to learn why this keeps getting repeated. I have hours and hours of testing and recorded game clips also showing how to calculate the right Steering ratios for manually set DORs for other members of my racing team and members of our forum community as well. Does manually setting a DOR then calibrating mess with the FFB model? It doesn't seem to, but I know FFB has been updated/patched so maybe now it does. The only thing I've seen is that "FFB model doesn't like low steering ratios". Myself and others love PCars so anything you can share would be extremely helpful.

You should always calibrate to the maximum your wheel is capable of. The game is set up so that if your using a wheel that has less degrees of rotation than the car your driving it automatically goes to a non-linear setting to compensate.

With a wheel there's really no reason to mess with steering sensitivity, its really there for pads. same with speed sensitivity.

Edit: the steering ratio does not change the linearity of the steering rack just the speed at which the wheels turn in relation to the steering wheel.

[PTG Ty1er Ward]

You should always calibrate to the maximum your wheel is capable of. The game is set up so that if your using a wheel that has less degrees of rotation than the car your driving it automatically goes to a non-linear setting to compensate.

With a wheel there's really no reason to mess with steering sensitivity, its really there for pads. same with speed sensitivity.

Edit: the steering ratio does not change the linearity of the steering rack just the speed at which the wheels turn in relation to the steering wheel.

Thank you Neil. I agree that the above is exactly how it works on PC. But the Xbox version (probably MS's fault) seems to treat the wheel as a controller so increasing/decreasing Steering Sensitivty also increases/decreases the linear curve (i.e. Faster/Slower input speead away from center- linear in this case means equal input speed away from center. I can also tell you that the advanced setting "soft steering damping" on/off produces a noticeable difference on the wheel, even though those settings are supposedly only for the controller. Hasn't it been wondered why there are dozens of threads started regarding "DOR" in the XBox section? It's perfect on PC, its different on Xbox. I'm just trying to help solve/understand so people have the same great time that I do when playing, because when firing on all cylinders this game is utterly amazing.

edit- please please please don't interperet any of this as combative or argumentative. As as long time racer on multiple platforms I am sincerely just trying to help. I plan on enjoying PCars for years to come and it even has the respect of most of the iRacing community which I think says something.

(LoL) Edit #2 you said "The game is set up so that if your using a wheel that has less degrees of rotation than the car your driving it automatically goes to a non-linear setting to compensate". That is true (obviously you know that) but that only occurs when you calibrate the wheel at 900 then on the wheel base manually change to something lower.(which I have preached against if you read my previous posts). But -If you choose a DOR on the base (say 360) then calibrate the wheel the game treats that as the maximum DOR and the steering remains linear at 50 sensitivity with an appropriate steering ratio (I have video proof with the benefit of the Kinect showing my hands on the physical wheel picture in picture with the in game wheel that no game non-linear compensation is applied). From there you can make a slight steering ratio adjustment, higher or lower depends on the car, which is fine but does change the linearity/input speed. Really IMHO the current problem in doing it that way is that changing/snapping apps (friend list, game chat, Twitch, etc) resets the base to a 900 DOR similar to a USB disconnect/reconnect since patch 1.4. My sheer and utter speculation on why is maybe that's how the complete loss of FFB when switching apps was resolved- some kind of "renewed handshake" similar to a HDMI/EDID handshake. But again, it only happens on XBOne.

Also, for the sake of PC people helping Xbox people this needs to be communicated- any changes to the Thrustmaster control panel on your PC are not "saved" on your wheel and are not reflected when you connect your wheel to an XBone. Changes made in the control panel are for that driver on that PC. It's no different that having 2 PCs and thinking that changing a driver on one PC effects the driver on the second PC when you swap the device over. So if you are releasing FFB settings saying "you must follow this numbers exactly" and step 1 is change the damper and spring settings in the control panel to 0, you need to know that's not an option for console users and the FFB does not feel exactly the same. (Probably not the right thread for that one but worth noting and I can copy/paste later)

Edit#3- you said "With a wheel there's really no reason to mess with steering sensitivity, its really there for pads. same with speed sensitivity." I could not agree with you more. But I would bet a lot of money 90% of Xbox wheel users are not at 50% and less money (but still money) that they are at 70% or above because they don't understand what it does other than make them turn faster at 900 DOR.

Im not trying to start a sh"tstorm. I'm not trying to self promote, I don't have a YouTube channel I'm trying to monitize. I am literally just trying to explain the way the game works as-is today and hopefully in helpful manner to those who are having a bit of hard time here or there. God knows how many changes the WMD guys saw come and go over the years I would imagine it would be hard to keep track of, and especially with Xbox support being the newest I believe. I've even tried to show XBone wheel users how to teach themselves the way the system works both here:

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/sho...l=1#post980997

And here

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/sho...l=1#post981140

[MMM1978]

Hi All,

Got my wheel set to 900, and done a wheel calibration but some cars just feel silly at corners. Sharp slow hairpins or the like just seem to need far to many rotations of the wheel to get round. Anyone else experiencing this? Do you all race with 900 or 540? Ive set my deadzones and speed sensitivity to zero in set up, is this a no no?


Cheers
MMM

[LMR ShOwTiMe875]

To me 900 feels to much like you said. To much input required around tight bends. I like 540 also. I know I've heard it sets per car but it doesn't always seem correct.