This has the makings of a great thread, I'm gonna try and post a video of my own FFB graph later on.
I know we use fairly different settings Grimey, we're all after the very same thing though.
This has the makings of a great thread, I'm gonna try and post a video of my own FFB graph later on.
I know we use fairly different settings Grimey, we're all after the very same thing though.
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How about you post a Video of your in Car telemetry and lets compare Notes... any car you want put your best up there... The only car that needs its own in car FFB is Formula A so I will pass on formula A cars... im Not that big into Formula A so i have not put any time into developing a in car FFB for that car...Those cars feel Flat and Lifeless...but as i said all other cars work fine with the 1 in car FFB Setting.
also i did Not have to re work my FFB Tweek after update 3.0 Feels just fine the way it is using the default FFB profile...i didn't even bother adjusting the spring scale sliders... LOL how about that![]()
since they added the spring scale sliders i can easily adjust my tweek to work with all wheels but i have Not had the time to pull my v2 wheel off my set up and make Tweek adjustments for the GT2 and CSR Elite wheel, i have them both...i will get around to it.
Last edited by GrimeyDog; 07-09-2015 at 08:31.
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This is your Doing Titzon Toast!!! LOL... your the one who told me how to use the PS4 share play... LOL... its 4:30 am N,Y time im going to get some shut eye... When i get up i will make a LMP1 Video running the same in car FFB...
Quote Originally Posted by Jack Spade View Post
I donīt know if you selected these GT cars at random or at will to prove your theory. In general SMS adjusted the GT carīs default levels of forces in a similar range in contrary
to many others. In your examples the default levels are almost identical on these cars, so whatever the setting is FFB response is almost identical hence it proves nothing.
A fair comparison would be your favorite GT, the FA or Lotus, any Road Car, Protype and FWD, let alone the Karts.
Here's the LMP1 i will do the Go Karts when i wake up... Pardon my sloppy driving i just threw the car around a bit to get a video...LOL... But the car handles Great...1 in car FFB setting to Rule them All!!! i just used GT3 its my favorite Car Class ATM... But i've driven them all and they all feel Great!!! 1 in car FFB tune all cars keep their own individual Driving Characteristics that are unique to that Car Because i did Not alter the FFB from 1 car to another... They are all governed by the same Global and in car FFB settings... IE: i do not manipulate car physics through FFB as a Means to a generic Suspension tweek... if a car sucks on Bumps, Curves, ETC then Tune the suspension Not the FFB.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r-ddRLOniSg
Last edited by GrimeyDog; 07-09-2015 at 09:56.
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As a comparison basis, please could you provide your FFB parameters.
I use the following ones for all the cars (but I sometimes adjust the Mz component depending on the category):
FFB: 100
TF:50
Fx:100
Fy:30
Fz:120
Mz:80
SoPLat:100
SoPDiff:120
Edit: I use now TF: 100 and FFB:30
Last edited by Fre.Mo; 14-10-2015 at 12:16.
Maybe I don't understand the telemetry but the signals in the videos are bouncing aggressively off the top and bottom of the graph which I thought was an indication of clipping.
I have a T300 and wouldn't want to risk running forces that high for fear it would kill my unit.
I posted something similar a while back. Crickets was the only the response.I totally agree with you on this, and, although I'm currently using Jack Spade's in-car settings, I've always considered it a sort of cheat in the physics sense, as far as simulation goes. My question was aimed more at online competition. If you can take the sluggishness out of a heavier car's wheel and make it feel like a lighter more nimble car, then doesn't affect the match? I get that the car is still modeled to spec, but the driver of the heavier car, should be forced to deal manhandling that boat around the track, but with a few adjustments, he can make the wheel easier to tame. Or he lessen the feel of the bumps in a car that rides a little rough. That doesn't seem right.
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Before a race driver jumps in the car some guys have tuned it for optimized performance on the track. Cars are different due to construction and so is the individual setup.
Itīs no different in this game. FFB is directly derived from individual car/tire physics, SMS interpreted including oddities and human errors to be precise. In consequence
the data the physics spits out is different from car to car and in order to deal with it for an optimized FFB performance SMS gave us the individual car FFB setup menus,
on PC tweaker files as an option. In an other posting I stressed the differences even among the same group of cars can be extremely. If all cars would work with the same
FFB setting SMS could have saved many months of development and a lot of money by just going without those menus. The character of a car doesnīt get destroyed by
an individual optimized FFB setup, the opposite is true, the character gets lost among the misinterpreted stream of data.
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When the line Goes all the way to the top or Bottom and stays there that is Clipping.
you can over drive your wheel to the point of burning out... I don't use any settings above 100 and My Global in Game FFB is only 25 That's it!!! and i run 98 Tire Force. you are not supposed to try and bolster the power of your wheel by feeding it Over Powered FFB signals!!! your wheel will not put out more FFB power than it was designed to put out that's why i don't understand using settings over 100when you add too much of 1 force then you are not leaving room to add other forces in and that's when the clipping starts.
when i was Fine tuning my Tweek i also used a digital Thermometer($35.00) to Monitor wheel motor temp because heat is a major concern. This pic is after 3+ hrs of Playing Pacrs... the temp will get a High as 105*F but quickly cools off...Before i had my Tweek perfected the wheel temp would get as High as 130*F
Im using the CSW V2 and even with the Game FFB set to 25 if you try to use the Wheel at 100% FFB you will Not be able to Drive!!! Its is that strong.
Here's a more simple way to look at tuning your wheel... Game FFB settings Global/In car (PS4/P.C/XB1 ETC) Represents a Amplifier your wheel Represents a Speaker if you turn the Volume up Too loud you will get distortion, too much Base you get more distortion, Treble,Mid range ETC you get the picture... its all about balance and knowing the limits of the wheel. Less = More Fidelity and that = more Road Feel.
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I dis agree...as i said The Road Doe's Not Change because your Driving a Different car... The Track Bumps, Curves ETC Remain the same for every car... The Road/Track is Not a Dynamic thing that changes per car... What is different is the way Each car will handle that Tracks Bumps and Curves according to its Driving characteristics... Front Engine, Mid Engine, Rear Engine, FWD, RWD, Weight, Weight Bias ETC. you get the picture. All cars in the game are Governed by the same Global FFB Settings and it is My Opinion that because All Cars are Ruled by the Same Global Settings that they Should All Share the same In Car FFB Settings...If a car Handles Sloppy on a Bumpy Curvy Track That is what Tuning the Suspension is for... Trying to change a cars Handling by manipulating in Car FFB is a Canned Generic Suspension Tweek.![]()
LMP1,GT1, GT3,Touring ETC i Run the same in Car FFB settings and all cars feel Great... BTW i posted the LMP1 video for you running the same in Car FFB settings...any other car you care for me to try out and make a Video for you??? i will make a Video in the Clio cup for you next how about that... or if you have a CSW v2 i can Give you the tweek and you can try and see for your self![]()
Last edited by GrimeyDog; 07-09-2015 at 16:59.
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What global FFB settings are you using Grimey
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