Lets talk FFB PC, PS4, XBox1

[GrimeyDog]

I will post them for you... I have to make a New PDF... The Settings have only been perfected on the CSW v2 at this point what wheel are you using??? im sure i can tweek the settings to work with every wheel but i need Test Pilots for Each wheel... its would be just a matter of lowering the in car Global FFB to match different wheels ... I like to do my Tweeking Hands on... my PSN tag is in my signature send me a friend invite.

[Titzon Toast]

Well Grimey, as you know, I'm of the opinion that the line shouldn't hit the top or the bottom at all unless you go over a bump or kerb.
As someone else pointed out above, I think your ffb line gets too close to the extremes a lot of the time in those videos.
I know we've argued about this plenty already but I'm throwing it out there again!

[Spitfire77]

Grimey runs a CSW with FFB at 25.. The graph could spend a day slamming the top and bottom and it won't hurt it, unless he has steering gain way high.

I know some like to run FFB low and Tire Force higher but I don't like the way the forces balance and prefer FFB close to or at 100 and lower Tire Force. This is personal preference neither is "correct" but they will feel different even if the same amount of absolute Force is output by the steering wheel's motor.

Either way is safe just don't run them all high on ps4.. Fisrt bad sign is your wheel's safe mode kicks in and drastically refeduces the amount of force it puts out. You should be able to race wildly, correcting with lots of counter steering, and hitting curbs/dirt, for an hour straight and not have the safe mode kick in.

Running individual car tweeks vs generic tweeks is also personal preference and there is no point in debating that one is more correct or better than the other. I prefer Jack's Fy+SoPLateral tweaks with slight adjustments here or there.

[GrimeyDog]

Well Grimey, as you know, I'm of the opinion that the line shouldn't hit the top or the bottom at all unless you go over a bump or kerb.
As someone else pointed out above, I think your ffb line gets too close to the extremes a lot of the time in those videos.
I know we've argued about this plenty already but I'm throwing it out there again!

Nope i get No Clipping at all...Remember that is a very small Graph its not a lot of room for movement in there...the line never stays on the top though...in fact the V2 can take much much more FFB than im feeding it but then it is Too Strong to Drive!!! my in game FFB is only 25 so im using only the power of the wheel to bolster and amplify the FFB Forces... To me the Tire Force is = to wheel weight i set that to 98 because i did not want to set it higher than the Relative adjust gain which is also 98... i set the relative adjust clamp at 92 that's lower than the stock global setting!!! That helps to avoid Clipping by clipping strong forces starting at 92 ... I have No settings that are over 100.

[GrimeyDog]

Grimey runs a CSW with FFB at 25.. The graph could spend a day slamming the top and bottom and it won't hurt it, unless he has steering gain way high.

I know some like to run FFB low and Tire Force higher but I don't like the way the forces balance and prefer FFB close to or at 100 and lower Tire Force. This is personal preference neither is "correct" but they will feel different even if the same amount of absolute Force is output by the steering wheel's motor.

Either way is safe just don't run them all high on ps4.. Fisrt bad sign is your wheel's safe mode kicks in and drastically refeduces the amount of force it puts out. You should be able to race wildly, correcting with lots of counter steering, and hitting curbs/dirt, for an hour straight and not have the safe mode kick in.

Running individual car tweeks vs generic tweeks is also personal preference and there is no point in debating that one is more correct or better than the other. I prefer Jack's Fy+SoPLateral tweaks with slight adjustments here or there.

Exactly...But the Way you set your FFB is Very Wheel Deoendent...But Keep in Mind that Higher levels of FFB input will Show forth the Higher Stronger Forces and Drown out some of the More Subtle Feelings... Ex: you will Feel Curbs/Rumble Strips but may Not Feel Tire Chatter/The point just before you loose Grip.... Some Times Less = More

I also Have a Classis 1.4 Tweek where i Run in game FFB at 85% ir even 100% But with the V2 100% is Not Needed the i dont want to Fight with the wheel and also alot of the Lesser Forces are Drowned out by the Stronger Forces using Higher in game FFB.

I Tested my Gt2 & CSR Elite wheel with my current FFB Tweek it works Great but i did Not leave it hooked up Long Enough to perfect the Tweek... Its alotta Work to Keep Changing wheel Bases out... I will Gladly Do a Party Chat with some one who has Patience and Speaks English well to Tweek the settings to their wheel. it would be just a Matter of Running Laps and Lowering the in Car Masters to fit the wheel. Ex: I keep my in Car FFB masters at 100 because my Global Settings are Set Low if i Move the In Car FFB Masters to 98 its a Notable Difference with the v2 wheel!!!

also im Not debating just expressing my Different method and View about FFB...what a Car Should feel like is purely based on personal taste.

My point was and is there Can be 1 in Car FFB to Rule all Cars and i Have the Proof.... V2 wheel and My Tweek any one with a V2 wheel Playing PCars on PS4 is welcom to try it.

My PSN Tag is in my Signature send me a Friend inv.

[rams1de]

Grimey runs a CSW with FFB at 25.. The graph could spend a day slamming the top and bottom and it won't hurt it, unless he has steering gain way high.

I don't understand how you draw this conclusion, if you run out of room on the graph the signal will be clipping. It could be Grimey has achieved a safe level of clipping for his wheel but so far there is only his thermometer to gauge this.

There are a number of different settings that multiply the signal, so starting with FFB at 25 means little in respect of the overall force but more likely indicates a reduction in the dynamic range.

[Titzon Toast]

Nope i get No Clipping at all...Remember that is a very small Graph its not a lot of room for movement in there...the line never stays on the top though...in fact the V2 can take much much more FFB than im feeding it but then it is Too Strong to Drive!!! my in game FFB is only 25 so im using only the power of the wheel to bolster and amplify the FFB Forces... To me the Tire Force is = to wheel weight i set that to 98 because i did not want to set it higher than the Relative adjust gain which is also 98... i set the relative adjust clamp at 92 that's lower than the stock global setting!!! That helps to avoid Clipping by clipping strong forces starting at 92 ... I have No settings that are over 100.

A small graph?! What does that mean dude? If you're constantly bouncing off the very top and the very bottom then that seems wrong to me.
Also, when your graph is in the middle when you're going straight, the line is still very jagged looking.
I think having the Master Scale up to 100 is too much.

Why can't some of the Devs jump in here and clear things up for us?
We've been left to our own devices since day one trying to decipher all of this.
Madness!

[Spitfire77]

Try it... Set FFB to 25. Then see how high you have to set other things to get the motor in your wheel to work hard. Those CSW can put out a lot of force for a long period of time, more than any settings he has posted in this thread or others.

[GrimeyDog]

I don't understand how you draw this conclusion, if you run out of room on the graph the signal will be clipping. It could be Grimey has achieved a safe level of clipping for his wheel but so far there is only his thermometer to gauge this.

There are a number of different settings that multiply the signal, so starting with FFB at 25 means little in respect of the overall force but more likely indicates a reduction in the dynamic range.

I dont get any Clipping...The trick is Not trying to increase the power of the wheel by Feeding it High FFB signals... the wheel was designed to put out a certain Max FFB yes you can get more by feeding it a Higher FFB signal but that puts your wheel in the Danger zone... I Feed the wheel a FFB signal and let the wheel amplify the signal power according to the wheels power capabilities... IMO when you feed your wheel High FFB signal you are over driving your wheel and it will have all kinds of distortion... EX: same as if you send 100wats to a 50watt speaker its going to crackle and pop with all kinds of distortion and eventually Burn out... its the same principle. also we don't know how sensitive the FFB meter is but what we do know is that it measures Current that is sent to the wheel and sent back to the System IE: it measures resistance to electrical Flow... 3 different wheels i tested and they all had Different FFB meter levels with the same settings... Conclusion its measuring How much FFB Each wheel can take... when i ran the same settings on my GT2 wheel the Graph stayed pinned to the top i reduced the in car masters and was able to get a decent stable FFB Level... but i did Not tweek long enough to get the final #'s... Tooo Much tweeking i was going into Tweeker burn out I had the same results with the CSR Elite but it was able to take Much more FFB than the GT2... its all about understanding and knowing the limits of the wheel you use.

[GrimeyDog]

A small graph?! What does that mean dude? If you're constantly bouncing off the very top and the very bottom then that seems wrong to me.
Also, when your graph is in the middle when you're going straight, the line is still very jagged looking.
I think having the Master Scale up to 100 is too much.

Why can't some of the Devs jump in here and clear things up for us?
We've been left to our own devices since day one trying to decipher all of this.
Madness!

yes the line is moving when im going straight but look at the dash board of the car its bouncing around because of road Bumps and you can even Hear the bumps on the straights listen to the car bouncing and bottoming out on the straights... at 100mph in a real sports car you feel the road bumps too and while driving even though your going straight your hand is always moving the wheel a bit to compensate for uneven road surface.

Take a Look at the Video of the LMP1 Marek i posted... Its very easy to see the Camera shaking and turn the Volume up you will Hear the car bottoming out...and that's a stock un-tuned suspension.

Then look at the Video of the Mclaren GT3 the line doesn't move as much but you will Notice the dash Board isnt shaking as much either and you don't hear the car bottoming out...its a very stable car.