COMPETITIVE RACING LICENSE – Infographic | FFB INFO | SAFE IS FAST
PS4 | FANATEC CSL Elite | FANATEC ClubSport Pedals v3
Oh oops wrong car lol
No I haven't driven that. I have driven the lotus Ford and that thing is nuts.
G29 FFB RAW 100-40-5-10
Yeah, that's another one (Lotus Type 40 Ford) on my short list of nearly undrivable cars. Occasionally I'll find a rhythm with it though.
COMPETITIVE RACING LICENSE – Infographic | FFB INFO | SAFE IS FAST
PS4 | FANATEC CSL Elite | FANATEC ClubSport Pedals v3
I've done a few laps of it at Oulton Inter. It's fun! Gotta take it to brands or donington see how she goes.
A lot of straight-line grunt, surprisingly, and not enough brakes. Slow it down enough for a corner and it's actually nice.
I think we may be too used to compliant grippy modern race cars that stop and turn on a dime.
These older cars can hustle though.
G29 FFB RAW 100-40-5-10
The thing is with the older cars, is that you have to relearn to drive fast all over again.
Mobo: GIGABYTE GA-970A-DS3P AMD 970 ATX | CPU: AMD FX-8350 4.0 GHz (4.20 GHz Turbo) 8x Core | CPU Cooler: Cooler Master V8 | Memory: 16GB DDR3 (1600MHz)
Graphics: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 970 2GB GDDR5 - (Driver: 385.69)| Displays: 55" LG 4K UHD TV @ 60Hz - 24" Monitor 1920x1080 @ 60Hz | PSU: Sea Sonic X - 850 Watt
Storage: SSD 250GB Samsung 850 EVO x2 - 2TB Western Digital Caviar Green Sata III x2 | Sound: X-FI Xtreme Gamer Fatality Pro + 400W Technics 7.1
Wheel: G25 & Pedals with Nixim mod springs (NO PROFILER USED) | RIG: Playseat Challenge | OS: Windows 10 Pro 64 bit
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------A few helpful links for you
The following user likes this Post: BullWinkle
RUF RT-12 R...4WD type vehicle but pretty ironic when this vehicle keep oversteering too much compared to RUF RGT-8 that uses RR layout. This car should need torque distribution setting and adjust it to 70/30 (Front/Rear) distribution. Still setting the sway bar (stabilizers) to max setting on both front and rear section.
I've learned to like the Ruf RT-12R, for me it's neck and neck with the P1 and much faster than the RGT-8. I had to quit fighting it for control and just let it slide, then it was ok.
Bikes wrecked-77 Suzuki RM125, 78 Honda Elsinore 250, 81 Honda CB900F, 2000 Kawsaki ZX12R(2), 2001 Honda F4I, 2005 Yamaha R1. A bike hasn't been made I couldn't wreck, spectacularly, but I'm retired now.
I have driven a lot of cars to the limit in the 80's and then I got married. VR has got my interest and I built a computer, designing and built a couple cockpits. I spend all my time playing with the settings trying to make it feel as real as possible. I use Pcars, Assetto Corsa and rF2. rF2 has the most realistic historic open wheel. Pcars has the most sophisticated force feed back settings. I am amazed at how much I can get out of it. I would say Pcars has the fastest physics response.
When I get in a real car it takes a while to adjust to the responsiveness. AC was the worst unit I discovered Bitdefener was causing physics slow down. Uninstalled it and AC has never felt so good.
Over all I give sim racing a "C". It's got a long way to go. Most of the work needs to be done in the cockpit I think. Hope I can design something that will help?
So far all the older cars don't feel right in pcars. So I would say they're the hardest to set/drive for me.
The Yellow Bird is my favorite. Now that I've been learning how to set ffb all the newer race cars are feeling good.
If you drive like hell you'll get there!!
GT3 cars when put "real mode", ABS and other assistances are also disabled or keep like real life ? (abs, etc.....)
"Real mode" = assists for all cars as per real life.
G29 FFB RAW 100-40-5-10
The following user likes this Post: blinkngone