Fanatec CSW v2.5 question

[Olijke Poffer]

Hi all,

As the most regular forum members know by now, I bought a CSW v2.5 and find it very smooth in comparison with my old T150. No noise, no crackling sounds etc.
Now after a few days of excessive use I feel a kind of a deadzone. I don’t know if this was from the beginning because the wheel felt so smooth I probably did not noticed it after using my T150 for a long time.

Hard to explain but I give it a go,
When I drive through a corner, lets say a lefthand corner, (mostly a high speed one) You feel the FFB working but when I turn the wheel a bit the opposite side (right) and instantly left again you feel a sort of no resistance and the wheel gives a kind of click (can’t be heard, it feels like a click) for a split second and in that time the wheel rotates a few degrees on his axis to the left without FFB so to speak and instantly the FFB picks it up again.
Is this a normal behaviour? It is a belt driven wheel after all. As said, It could be it was there from the beginning although I did not noticed because I was still in the whoooow fase. Lol..
It also could be not ok and then I have to contact Fanatec support..

It is no issue but I was wondering if it already was there or is it a fault in my wheel which revealed itself after a couple of days using the wheel..

[Juiced46]

Pull up the telemetry screen and see what the FFB widget is showing. See if you are clipping the wheel at that point.

Also what are your game settings for the wheel and on wheel settings?

[BigDad]

Are you leaving the on wheel FFB at 100 ?

[MaximusN]

Didn't you lower one of the FFB settings recently to make the wheel a bit less heavy? From the top of my head lowering the top FFB value was said to cause this in CSW wheels.

EDIT: or it was the on-wheel like Big Dad said I have them both at 100 so I didn't really store that warning from the other thread well. Checked the ACC thread, it was the on-wheel one.

[Olijke Poffer]

Pull up the telemetry screen and see what the FFB widget is showing. See if you are clipping the wheel at that point.

Also what are your game settings for the wheel and on wheel settings?

Yeah will do, but it is a bit hard as you don’t see the telemetry graph in VR. So I have to drive without VR and therefore I must move some stuff to be able to sit on front of my Screen close enough to read the telemetry.

Are you leaving the on wheel FFB at 100 ?

Jups all set to 100. Ingame and wheel. I also have the gain at 100.

Didn't you lower one of the FFB settings recently to make the wheel a bit less heavy? From the top of my head lowering the top FFB value was said to cause this in CSW wheels.

EDIT: or it was the on-wheel like Big Dad said I have them both at 100 so I didn't really store that warning from the other thread well. Checked the ACC thread, it was the on-wheel one.

See above. All set to 100. Strange.. Stupid thing is that I cannot remember it if it was there from the beginning. I was so impressed by the quality of the wheel. Zillion of times better and smoother than my T150.

[GrimeyDog]

My CSW v2.5 Pcars2 In Game FFB settings are
100
33
50
67

On wheel Settings are
Sen - Aut
FFB - 50% <--- Yeah Yeah I know Many say you Must/Should leave on wheel FFB @100% ---> with Fanatec wheels I dont believe or Follow this rule because on PC the Fanatec On wheel FFB setting Over Rides/ takes the place of the Wheel profile page Strength setting <--this setting is Not even in the controlor profile page when using a Fanatec wheel ... I have testing this rule in Many Games PC1, PCars2, AC, R3E, AMS, Dirt4, Dirt Rally Sport etc: i dont see a difference in FFB Dynamic Range CSW v2.5 or CSW v2 so i just set on wheel FFB according to the Level of FFB strength i Need/Want in the Wheel.
ABS - Off
Dri -0
BRF -100 <-- I like My Brake Pedal Very Sensitive because i always drive with just Sox on
All other on wheel Settings are the default out of Box Value.


Check your In Game Steering Input settings!!! Make Sure you dont Have Dead Zone in your steering wheel input settings.... I turned all the Dead Zones to 0% and all pedal input settings should be at 50%.... then recalibrate your wheel and pedals --->Some times when setting your wheel up you move the wheel profile and all these settings revert to default settings which have dead zone in them.

[Charger]

My CSW v2.5 Pcars2 In Game FFB settings are
100
33
50
67

On wheel Settings are
Sen - Aut
FFB - 50% <--- Yeah Yeah I know Many say you Must/Should leave on wheel FFB @100% ---> with Fanatec wheels I dont believe or Follow this rule because on PC the Fanatec On wheel FFB setting Over Rides/ takes the place of the Wheel profile page Strength setting <--this setting is Not even in the controlor profile page when using a Fanatec wheel ... I have testing this rule in Many Games PC1, PCars2, AC, R3E, AMS, Dirt4, Dirt Rally Sport etc: i dont see a difference in FFB Dynamic Range CSW v2.5 or CSW v2 so i just set on wheel FFB according to the Level of FFB strength i Need/Want in the Wheel.
ABS - Off
Dri -0
BRF -100 <-- I like My Brake Pedal Very Sensitive because i always drive with just Sox on
All other on wheel Settings are the default out of Box Value.


Check your In Game Steering Input settings!!! Make Sure you dont Have Dead Zone in your steering wheel input settings.... I turned all the Dead Zones to 0% and all pedal input settings should be at 50%.... then recalibrate your wheel and pedals --->Some times when setting your wheel up you move the wheel profile and all these settings revert to default settings which have dead zone in them.

Ya won't be doing that with your DD wheel, I do it the opposite way, 100% in DD settings and 50% gain in PC2, I don't get this 100% gain in PC2 business, better to run the wheel at 100% and dial it down in game as it's adjustable, your wheel can then go the full dynamic range depending on game settings.

I think the 100% gain is more for TM and Logitech wheels as TM only use 60-70% in the windows settings and Logitech although are 100% in windows are a lot weaker.

[MaximusN]

Yeah will do, but it is a bit hard as you don’t see the telemetry graph in VR. So I have to drive without VR and therefore I must move some stuff to be able to sit on front of my Screen close enough to read the telemetry.


Jups all set to 100. Ingame and wheel. I also have the gain at 100.



See above. All set to 100. Strange.. Stupid thing is that I cannot remember it if it was there from the beginning. I was so impressed by the quality of the wheel. Zillion of times better and smoother than my T150.

So you have gain and volume at 100? I think that's not a very good idea. I have the top one at 100 and the next one at 50(both default). I have only altered Tone and FX to a very low 10(-ish). Flavour is Raw to be complete. Wheel FFB is also at 100. And I have BRF at 35 or 30(depending on my day), even driving with socks. This is on a V3 pedalset without accessories(I had the damper kit, but that feels all kinds of wrong).

[Olijke Poffer]

My CSW v2.5 Pcars2 In Game FFB settings are
100
33
50
67

On wheel Settings are
Sen - Aut
FFB - 50% <--- Yeah Yeah I know Many say you Must/Should leave on wheel FFB @100% ---> with Fanatec wheels I dont believe or Follow this rule because on PC the Fanatec On wheel FFB setting Over Rides/ takes the place of the Wheel profile page Strength setting <--this setting is Not even in the controlor profile page when using a Fanatec wheel ... I have testing this rule in Many Games PC1, PCars2, AC, R3E, AMS, Dirt4, Dirt Rally Sport etc: i dont see a difference in FFB Dynamic Range CSW v2.5 or CSW v2 so i just set on wheel FFB according to the Level of FFB strength i Need/Want in the Wheel.
ABS - Off
Dri -0
BRF -100 <-- I like My Brake Pedal Very Sensitive because i always drive with just Sox on
All other on wheel Settings are the default out of Box Value.


Check your In Game Steering Input settings!!! Make Sure you dont Have Dead Zone in your steering wheel input settings.... I turned all the Dead Zones to 0% and all pedal input settings should be at 50%.... then recalibrate your wheel and pedals --->Some times when setting your wheel up you move the wheel profile and all these settings revert to default settings which have dead zone in them.

Thanks, will try those settings.

So you have gain and volume at 100? I think that's not a very good idea. I have the top one at 100 and the next one at 50(both default). I have only altered Tone and FX to a very low 10(-ish). Flavour is Raw to be complete. Wheel FFB is also at 100. And I have BRF at 35 or 30(depending on my day), even driving with socks. This is on a V3 pedalset without accessories(I had the damper kit, but that feels all kinds of wrong).

No no.. lol. FFB in-game and on the wheel are both set to 100%.
If I set the volume to 100% I need Arnold Schwarzenegger to help me turning the wheel.
My settings are, 100/45/50/40 I believe.


But I think I found the problem. I tightened the connection wheel to base. In the manual you can read “ Tighten only by using the short lever of hex key!“ so I probably was a bit to softy with it. Lol.
I now tightened it a whole lot better and thusfar no strange “no” FFB feeling..

[MaximusN]

But I think I found the problem. I tightened the connection wheel to base. In the manual you can read “ Tighten only by using the short lever of hex key!“ so I probably was a bit to softy with it. Lol.
I now tightened it a whole lot better and thusfar no strange “no” FFB feeling..

You have one of the wheels without Quick Release I presume? But glad you solved it. Didn't it make one hell of a noise though?