BMW M3 GT4 setup enquiry

[warhammer2]

On the ZIC track with this car, I am finding it very difficult to drive.

I have the tires around 1.78bar hot and brakes at 400 oC (prior to next corner). Mostly on stable setup and set brake pressure at 80%, 56/42 distribution.

I have a 10 lap race at ZIC track temp 33oC and first 4 laps are good, but towards lap 6 I can 't stop the car, keeps on locking or simply overshooting into the gravel. When downshifting under heavy braking the rear also have tendency to spin out.

Checking the telemetry everything seems fine and in green colour.

Any suggestion to fix the car ? thanks for the help

[blinkngone]

Hi, cpcdem came up with lowering the rear ride height for stability. http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/sho...=1#post1553270

Are you still on PS4 or did you upgrade to Pro? Just curious, here is a TT setup. I would suggest trying cpcdem's damper page ride height adjustment as well. Don't worry if you can't get close to the laptime, heathen is the BMW GT4 master, nearly every World Record is his. If his setup doesn't suit you just ask for a different one. You can see heathen has changed the toe in front and in the rear the added toe will keep the rear from coming around too quickly but will generate more heat and wear on your tires so you need to watch this. Check out his Engine Braking at 10, if yours is lower at Default of 7 then this can contribute to your braking issues you described, his higher value should help you. I can't say this is what is happening but from your description you may be braking too hard too late. Try braking a little earlier and less aggressively this will reduce instability and as you run more laps adjust your brake points a little earlier. You might have wrecked your tires by aggressive braking in your early laps. Of course you can just ignore me which is cool.
Check out this video at VIR, notice the brake temps appear slightly higher than yours, almost never Blue(400) except the long straight. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nfZNdzi3J10
Just an FYI, in order to help you better consider mentioning if you are on a controller or wheel. The setup I gave you is for a wheel, for a controller you need to change the steering ratio typically.






It's easy to overcook 4/5, messes up your whole lap. I never had problems with 7, AI chicken out here, outside inside clipping the apex. I tried to find a driving line map but not any really good ones.

[warhammer2]

Thanks for the detailed tips and appreciate your time to explain the points. well noted !
will try and report later.
One interesting thing I noted from your screen caps are the brake ducts are set at 10% only..... would it not majorly overheat the brakes ?

I an still on PS 4 (not pro). I am on t300 with th8A and t3pa pro pedals.
Thanks for the video of the s2000, looks like temps should be slightly higher ?
Last night when I was struggling towards 5th or 6th lap of the race I brought up the full HUD (showing details of the 4 corners ) while driving to check but
seems like brake temps and tire pressure were in ideal range...... what would be an ideal tire temp for hard slicks? I think it was showing somewhere in the 88 range when hot

[blinkngone]

Thanks for the detailed tips and appreciate your time to explain the points. well noted !
will try and report later.
One interesting thing I noted from your screen caps are the brake ducts are set at 10% only..... would it not majorly overheat the brakes ?

I an still on PS 4 (not pro). I am on t300 with th8A and t3pa pro pedals.
Thanks for the video of the s2000, looks like temps should be slightly higher ?
Last night when I was struggling towards 5th or 6th lap of the race I brought up the full HUD (showing details of the 4 corners ) while driving to check but
seems like brake temps and tire pressure were in ideal range...... what would be an ideal tire temp for hard slicks? I think it was showing somewhere in the 88 range when hot

Hi, these are setups I can get from PC Time Trial, we can share these on PC but the consoles can't so I can get setups for console users. Correct, the brake ducts need to be adjusted for a race. EDIT:Oh and yes I think you have room to adjust the ducts for higher temps. You also need to adjust the radiator opening. It's not always the case because some drivers run TT with their race setup so you need to check. Also tire pressures need adjustment. Your brake setup is close to heathens.

I think ideal would be around 202(94 C) so 88 seems low. EDIT, sorry, this is the minimum temp to be clear, some people run at almost 100 if they can depending on track conditions. You might want to try the Softs with your current setup. In the setup I gave you heathen has increased camber(Stable Default is at 2.5) so this might help you get/keep temps up with Hard tires unless you have already increased camber yourself. The tire model SMS uses is very complicated and has driven many users to hair pulling fits regarding tire temps.
Mr. Scribbles driving line map. I think his lift pointers are good, note he has only a couple of hard braking zones as well.

With only a couple of widely separated hard braking zones you may have trouble keeping your brake temperatures up. Same with tire temperatures. Also you know that the GT4 is almost the weight of a GT3 with 100 less horsepower so conserving momentum is key, if you are breaking late and hard you don't have enough hp to make up for the loss in speed with acceleration. Smoothness, carrying as much speed as you can, lifting instead of braking all can help you improve your lap times.
Mr. Scribbles White Line.

Mr. Scribbles first Lift point.

Mr. Scribbles early turn in for 4, which I prefer.

[blinkngone]

Tire temperatures. http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/sho...=1#post1369893
Your 88 is low but may be just car/track/setup.
Bitcoin miners find our Advanced Search a challenge.

I just check the tire temperatures when I get Manual Control over the car in TT using the Telemetry HUD, on the off-hand chance the Engineers might know what they are doing. Use that as a target, so for your car 94 C.

For cast iron brake temperatures from AP Racing "However a pyrometer reading is not a good indicator of disc operating temperature which decays rapidly with time when the brakes are not being applied. Under racing conditions disc bulk temperatures should normally be maintained in the range 400°C to 600°C for best performance." So your 400C is lowest end and because you have such large distances between heavy braking I would close the ducts until you more toward 500 if you can even get there. The problem is that long run up to turn 1, what are your brake temps when you approach turn 1? If they are 400 and Blue you need to ease on the brakes earlier and get them heated before you increase pressure.

I haven't run Zhuhai in PCars 2 but I ran it about a dozen times in PCars 1, mostly in the faster cars, 1:26s lap times, so with the GT4 Mr. Scribbles White line reference may be a point where you ease on the brakes to get some heat into them whereas with the faster cars you needed to be full on braking there. I did a couple of quick tests with cold brakes and you can go past this line and still make it with the BMW.

[blinkngone]

Radiator and Brake Duct opening effects on speed. Testing at Daytona Tri-Oval. Why? Because I am bored.
First I needed to come up with a decent low drag setup.

Radiator at 10%.

Radiator at 20%.

Radiator at 40%.

Radiator at 40%, Front Brake Ducts at 58%/ Rear at 40%.

[blinkngone]

There have been more than a few discussions about the BMW GT4. Many people have problems with this car in Career, the more common recommendation is to just dump the BMW in favor of the Ginetta or Cayman as can be seen in this more recent thread.

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/sho...n-setup-fix-it

In this thread Bealdor had explained about the need to balance this particular car with the ride height instead of the usual ARB/Shock/etc. adjustments. Also in this thread a driver who had never driven this car previously reduced the rear ride height and significantly improved the driveability(balance) of this car.

I wanted to test to see if there were any negative affects of the ride height adjustments. Most of us are used to running the rake where the front is lower than the rear and for most cars this is the best aero/balance model. It turns out for the BMW not only does running the front higher than the rear improve the balance of the car but also it's aero.

The posted setup by heathen, ride height.

Front at 105, rear at 100.

Front at 110, rear at 100.

The ride height in heathen's setup, 40% Radiator opening and Ducts at 58/40.

[blinkngone]

Since I was checking out the BMW I thought I would also check out the GT3s. I used Brake ducts at 60 front and 40 rear with a Radiator opening of 40%.
The Mercedes AMG was only 0.100 slower at these openings. Clearly this car has an advantage on the other GT3s in any straight section. The next least affected cars are the Ginetta and Huracan slower by 0.200 followed by the AM, Porsche, Renault slower by 0.250 to 0.300.
The cars most disadvantaged by these openings are the NSX, R8 and 650 S with these cars slowed between 0.5 and 0.6.

[blinkngone]

Porsche Cayman GT4 Clubsport MR. Brake ducts 58/40, Radiator 40%.

[warhammer2]

Hi, cpcdem came up with lowering the rear ride height for stability. http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/sho...=1#post1553270

Are you still on PS4 or did you upgrade to Pro? Just curious, here is a TT setup. I would suggest trying cpcdem's damper page ride height adjustment as well. Don't worry if you can't get close to the laptime, heathen is the BMW GT4 master, nearly every World Record is his. If his setup doesn't suit you just ask for a different one. You can see heathen has changed the toe in front and in the rear the added toe will keep the rear from coming around too quickly but will generate more heat and wear on your tires so you need to watch this. Check out his Engine Braking at 10, if yours is lower at Default of 7 then this can contribute to your braking issues you described, his higher value should help you. I can't say this is what is happening but from your description you may be braking too hard too late. Try braking a little earlier and less aggressively this will reduce instability and as you run more laps adjust your brake points a little earlier. You might have wrecked your tires by aggressive braking in your early laps. Of course you can just ignore me which is cool.
Check out this video at VIR, notice the brake temps appear slightly higher than yours, almost never Blue(400) except the long straight. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nfZNdzi3J10
Just an FYI, in order to help you better consider mentioning if you are on a controller or wheel. The setup I gave you is for a wheel, for a controller you need to change the steering ratio typically.






It's easy to overcook 4/5, messes up your whole lap. I never had problems with 7, AI chicken out here, outside inside clipping the apex. I tried to find a driving line map but not any really good ones.

I have tried this setup and found it much better than my previous one. However tire temps still around 87-92 when hot.
Brakes i keep around 500 front 460 rear range when i start braking。。
Gear final i keep at default value as I find 4.1 is too low.
how should I tune radiator opening? There is an engine symbol and always green. I suppose if I close it abit i should get faster.