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Thread: The guide for setting up the AI in Project Cars 2

  1. #1
    Kart Driver
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    Aug 2018
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    The guide for setting up the AI in Project Cars 2

    There are several interesting guides for setting up AI (eg. www.youtube.com/watch?v=LfCbw0TGbnY). In my opinion, I agree with those who say that the player must somehow adapt to the AI, as no game responds perfectly to every type of player. This guide is primarily intended for those who prefer the endurance side of PC2, and should allow for a good level of challenge and realism. When for an hour and more 5 cars are in 10 seconds and you are in the middle, and you can count about ten overtaking made or suffered with the AI, I believe that we can believe that everything works.

    Aggresiveness is the key
    - Set aggressiveness to 100. Aggression does not significantly affect AI errors (just a bit at starts). Even the actual tendency to overtake is not particularly encouraged. Otherwise, aggression represents the consistency with which the AI takes on all curves, braking, overtaking. If the aggression is around 50, the AI will do a few laps at maximum speed (depending on the force setting) but most of the laps will be 1-2s (depending on the car) slower. Otherwise, at 100, the AI will always make constant times, very close to the maximum performance
    - Strength represents the maximum possible performance in the event of a perfect ride. It is very important to calibrate it properly. The cause of the ramming is closely related to the strength of the AI. If the AI is too fast it will tend to brake better than the player or overtake in risky place, hitting the player. In fact, if the AI is stably slower than the player (e.g. about 1s), it is highly unlikely that it will spur the player. The problem is that very often we tend to lower aggression to avoid ramming or risky moves, but this lowers the AI times. Therefore the player raises the strength of the AI, rebalancing the AI average times but making the AI too strong on the single lap (and on the single braking), increasing the risk of an accident. What values should the force be set to? See qualification tips

    Qualify
    - AI don't use qualify setup (e.g. softer tires, 2-lap fuel), but race setup. therefore, the player must do the same, otherwise if the AI is in the same performance window in qualifying, then it will be too fast in the race.
    - The qualification is essential for setting the strength of the AI. For an experienced player, the goal is to finish (with a good lap, not a dream lap) within the top 3 positions. If you are faster than the best AI by 0.5-1 second, raise the strength by 5 points. If you are about 1.5-2 seconds, raise it by 10. Follow the same approach if you are slower than AI

    Race
    - Multiples of 35 minutes represent ideal periods for setting the duration of a race. A 1h10 'race includes 1 stop for the player and for the AI (or zero for both, in certain GT3 races, for example). A 2h20 'race includes 2 stops for cars with large gasoline load capacity (eg GT3, old prototypes), or 3-4 stops for modern cars.
    - In rain condition, the aggression at 100 reduces the inherent slowness of AI, but it still remains slow. Generally it is necessary to increase the strength by around 10 points over the baseline to have some competition. However, I don't race in rain condition because the speed is dependant to the intensity of rain, and setting an effective value is difficult.
    - If you play R18 2016, AI should be always rise by 10 point, otherwise you will be faster.

    Specific AI for track (in progress)
    For a player with many hours of experience, using non-extreme setups, the optimal AI should be 110, but each one has its own reference, even in function of the cars. Different classes result in different AI performance, so it's about making small corrections around your reference value. There are, however, races generally classified as difficult (eg Silverstone, COTA) and others easy (eg Laguna Seca, Sonoma). Here are some suggestions.

    Barcelona
    110 (LMP3)
    90 (GT3)

    Brands
    110 (GrC)

    Brno
    100 (LMP900)

    COTA
    100 (LMP1, LMP2)
    90 (GT3)

    Daytona
    110 (GrC)
    105 (LMP2)
    100 (LMP3, LMP900)

    Donington
    105 (LMP900)

    Dubai
    110 (LMP1)

    Fuji
    120 (GrC)
    110 (LMP1, LMP2)

    Imola
    110 (LMP2, LMP3)
    100 (GT3)

    Indianapolis
    105 (LMP2)

    Laguna Seca
    115 (LMP2, LMP3)
    110 (GT3)

    Le Mans
    105 (LMP1, LMP900)

    Le Mans short
    115 (LMP3)

    Le Mans classic
    120 (GrC, Vintage Prot A)
    100 (Gr6)

    Long Beach
    115 (GrC)
    110 (LMP2)

    Monza
    120 (GrC)
    105 (LMP900)
    100 (LMP2, GT3)

    Monza classic
    110 (Vintage Prot A)
    100 (Gr6)

    Mugello
    110 (LMP3)

    Nurburgring
    120 (GrC)
    110 (LMP1)
    100 (GT3)

    Nurburgring 24H
    90 (GT3)

    Oschersleben
    110 (LMP900)
    105 (GT3)

    Portimao
    110 (LMP3)
    100 (LMP2)

    Red Bull Ring
    100 (LMP2, GT3)

    Road America
    100 (LMP2, LMP3, GrC)
    90 (GT3)

    Ruapuna
    115 (LMP2)

    Silverstone
    100 (LMP1, LMP2)
    90 (GT3)

    Silverston classic
    110 (Vintage Prot A)
    100 (Gr6)

    Sonoma
    115 (LMP2)
    110 (GT3)

    Spa
    110 (LMP1, LMP2, GrC)
    105 (LMP900)
    100 (GT3)

    Spa classic
    100 (Vintage Prot A)
    90 (Gr6)

    Sugo
    120 (GrC)
    110 (LMP2)

    Suzuka
    120 (GrC)
    110 (LMP2)

    Watkins Glen
    105 (LMP2)
    100 (GT3, GrC, LMP3)

    Zhuhai
    110 (LMP1, LMP2)

    Zolder
    115 (LMP3)
    Last edited by sparviero1978; 11-04-2021 at 09:52.
    The following 5 users likes this Post: John Hargreaves, kingsti, Maskmagog, McClusky, mk23socom


  2. #2
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